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■^.. 


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1 


THE 

BEAUTIES 

OF 

England  and  Wales : 

OR, 

aRTGIJV^L  BELIJVE^TIOJVS, 

TOFOGEAPniCAL,  HISTOUCAL,  AVtV  DESCaiPmrB. 
OV 

EACH  COUNTY. 


EMBELLISHKD  WITH"  EN6RAVINOS. 

BY  THE  REV.  J.  HODGSON, 

AHD.  * 

MR.  F.  C.  LAIRD. 


VOL.  XIL— PART  I. 


Heavens !  what  a  goodly  prospect  smiles  aronnd, 
or  hi  lis,  and  dales,  and  woods,  and  lawns,  and  spires. 
And  glittering  towers,  and  gilded  streams,  till  all 
The  stretching  landscape  into  smoke  decays- 
Happy  Britannia !  Thomson. 


LONDON: 

i'RIVTED  ron  J.  HARRIS;  LONOMAV  AND  CO.  ;  J.WALKER;  R.  BALDWIN  > 
SHERWOOD  AND  CO.  ;  J.  AND  J.  CUND£E  ;  B.  AKD  R.  CROSBY  AND  CO.* 
J.  CUTHILt  ;  J.  AND  J.  RICHARDSON;  CADELL  AMD  OAVlES  ;  C.  AN» 
J.  BIVIKOTON  ;    AND  O.  COWIE  AND  CO. 

1813. 


LIBRARY  OF  THE 

lEum  sTAt^FORD  jp.  u^imRBm, 

OCT  1    1900 


THE 

BEAUTIES 


OP 


Cnglaitb  anb  WMtsf. 


NORTIIUiMBERL\ND. 

X  HE  county  of  Northumberland  was  andently  included 
in  that  divkion  of  Britain,  which»  Camden  conjectures,  horn 
Its  irtuation  beyond  the  Tyne,  was  called  Ottadini^  or  Otia* 
HnL  The  Brigrantes  lived  on  the  southern  »ide  of  the  waD. 
The  Ottadinl  were  a  part  of  tlie  Meatas,  a  people  who,  according 
to  Dio^  lived  near  tlie  great  wall  which  divideth  the  island  in 
rsrain.^  They  were  more  to  the  south  than  the  Gadeni,  and 
their  chief  cities  were  Curia  and  Bremcnium.f  The  regions 
iphich  the  Meats  possess,  says  another  author^  are  the  follow 
rug';  Ottadinia^  in  tlie  east^  then  Gadenia,  behind  this  $eIgovia« 
tliefi  Novantia,  and  also  behind  these  Damnia*  The  Gadenii 
whose  metropolis  is  Curia,  live  nearest  to  the  wall,  Tlie  O/fn- 
f  are  nearer  the  ^ea ;  their  head  city  is  Bremenium^  and  their 
lef  rivera  the  Tueda^  the  Alauna,  and  both  the  T^ncs^  which 
ran  within  the  walL||  The  country  of  the  Ottadini,  perhaps, 
stretched  along  the  whole  length  of  the  Roman  province  Ya* 
^E3tTfA,  from  Tynemouth  to  the  Firtl*  of  Forth;  and  the 
HI  seem  to  have  been  an  inland  people,  adjoining  the 
Vol,.  XIL  B  Ottadini 

*  iCiphl.  U  U%\%  t  Pto.  Geo.  |  Ric.  Corin.  K  t.  c.  6.  $  57. 

11  Ibid,  i  n. 


2  XOETHUMBE&LAKD. 

Otudmi  on  the  west,  from  the  wall  in  the  high  pnf  of  Nortln 
tunberland  to  the  waU  b  Scotland.  The  real  gituatfcm  of  Curia 
has  not  been  accurately  ascertained.  Bremenium  was  one  of 
the  twelve  urhes  stipendaris  in  Britain,  and  its  Uirge  ndnt  and 
chequered  walls  are  still  to  be  seen  at  Rochester,  in  Reedsdale. 

Besides  the  numerous  remains  of  camps  and  castlei,  scattered 
through  all  parts  of  Northumberland,  the  Romans  had  fourteen 
cities  in  it,  and  it  was  crossed  by  that  celebrated  barrier,  wbidi 
in  Latin  was  called  Vallum  Barbaricum ;  by  Greek  authoia, 
^»aif»x*^fA«  And  Euu,*;  by  the  Britons,  Gual  Sever  and  Mur 
Sever ;  by  the  Scots,  Scottinwaith ;  and  by  the  English,  the 
Pict's  Wall  and  the  Keep  Wall* 

Though  it  is  generaUy  allowed  that  Agricola  in  his  second 
or  third  campaign  built  several  of  these  cities,  or  stations,  yet 
the  argument  in  favour  of  the  presumption  Lb  drawn  from  pro- 
bable inferences,  rather  than  conclusive  evidence.  The  Benwell 
altar,  which  rcems  to  mention  Senicio,f  who  was  consul  with 
Palma,  in  A.  D.  99,  and  twelve  years  after  Agricola  left  Bri- 
tain, is  perhaps  too  much  obliterated  to  prove  that  it  belongs 
to  that  time ;  and  it  may  savour  too  much  of  conjecture,  to 
suppose  the  prefect  JElius  Atticus,  who  has  left  his  name  on  an 
altar  at  Lanchcster,^  about  twelve  miles  from  the  wall,  was  the 
same  as  the  prefect  Aulus  Atticus,  who,  being  mounted  on  a 
young  and  fiery  horse,  was  carried  among  the  enemy,  and 
perished  with  the  three  hundred  and  forty  Romans  who  fell  in 
Agricohi's  battle  with  Galgacu8.||  An  inscription,  found  at 
(/reat  ('hesters,  records  the  rebuilding  of  a  granary,  which  had 
fallen  down  through  age,  about  A.  D.  220  ;f  and  a  similar  do- 
cimient  proves  that  tlie  armamentaria  and  principia,  which  had 
fallen  down  at  Lanchester,  were  repaired  in  the  year  238.^ 
Had  these  buildings  been  coeval  with  the  third  summer  of 
Agricola's  lieutenancy,  the  granary  had  only  lasted  one  hundred 

and 

•  Camden.  t  Bax.  Glos.  X  Bcautiea,  ficc.  Vol.  V.  p.  209. 

!!  Tac.  in  Vit.  Jul.  Afi;ric.  §  BrancTs  Newc.  I.  611. 

t  Beautie*,  fltc  V.  209.    Hors.  Chron.  Tab. 


ud  br^-ope  yeiird,  and  it  was  so  ruinous  as  to  require  the 
pfcttsc  •  veiuetate  conlajjsa*  to  describe  its  state ;    and  the 
buildingi»  at  Lanchester  had  *  conlapsed '  in  one  hundred  and 
ft"tv-four  years.     It  is  certain,  that  after  he  conquered   the 
Meataj,  a  great  i>art  of  hLs  fourth  summer  wui  employed  in  se- 
curing his  conquests  with  a  chain  of  forts  between  the  Firths 
«f  Fmh  and  Clyde.     The  close  of  his  second  campaign  was 
^  ttken  up  in  surrounding  the  enemy  with  castles  and  for- 
tP^ssea,  and  in  the  winter  of  that  year,  he  erected  temples, 
iDirkets,  and  private  buildings ;  and  thus,  by  little  and  little, 
cwiDed  the  rugged  vices  of  the  natives  to  such  a  degree,  that 
ifcere  was  great  emulation  among  them  to  learn  the  Roman 
tongtie,  and  assume  the  Uonian  habit,  and  they  began  to  enjoy 
the  luxuries  of  arched  walks,  and  baths,  and  the  elegance  of 
^endid  entertainments*     The  third  year,  continues  Tacitus, 
presented  new  people,  and  the  country  was  devastated  as  far 
u  the  estuary  Taus :  and  though  the  soldiers  had  to  coDtend 
^lih  »evere  tempests,  there  was  no  murmuring,  and  time  was 
found  to  fortify  their  conquests  with  castella.*     From  all  this, 
I  (hink,  there   arises  a  strong  presumptive  evidence  that  the 
cbAia  of  stations  from  Sol  way  Firth  towards  the  mouth  of  thu 
l/oe,  was  built  under  the  direction  of  Ai^icola,  and  that  the 
ancietit  inhabitants  of  this  county  iirst  yielded  to  the  Roman 
irms  in  the  eighteenth  year  after  the  birth  of  Jesus  Chri^^t. 

Uahkian's  Vallvm  consists  of  a  mound  of  eartfi  thirty 
feet  at  the  base,  and  ten  feet  high ;  a  ditch  ten  feet  deep,  and 
ifieen  feet  broad ;  a  second  mound,  three  feet  high,  and  six 
feel  m  the  base ;  another  ditch,  twelve  feet  deep,  and  twenty* 
iour  feet  over ;  and  north  of  this,  about  seventy  f«et,  another 
Douad,  thirty  feet  broad  at  the  base,  and  ten  feet  high.  The 
ads  are  all  semicircular,  and  the  ditches  slope  from  the  sur- 
to  the  bottom,  at  an  angle  of  about  eighty  degrees. f 
ITiere  arc  large  remains  of  this  work  on  Tippermoor.  Tlie 
three  mounds,  and  the  immense  fragments  of  basalt,  hewn  out 
B  2  of 

•  Vit,  Jul.  Atric.  t  Hutt.  Ro.  Wall,  IT  o. 


XORTttUMBEKLAKPt 

o4*  the  great  cUtcbt  and  tjbrawn  confusedly  on  each  tide  of  i 
exhibit,  to  this  day,  strong  proofs  of  the  industry  aaxd  mecbi 
uical  skill  of  the  Iloiuaxi  people.     Hadrian  came  into  6r 
A.  D-  120,  where,  according  to  Spartian,  he  corrected  ma 
things,  and  miule   a  wall  fmnntrnj  eighty  miles  in  lengtk^  to 
divide  the  Romans  from  the  barbarians.* 

The  truth  of  this  assertion  may  be  inferred  from  asiother 
passage  in  the  Augustine  histor}',  where  it  ia  said  that  **  L. 
Urbicus,  the  lieutenant  of    Antoninus  Pius  (A.  D.  140}  co 
4|uered  the  Britalns,  and  drew  anoiker  voaU  of  turf  across 
i4land*f 

Thia^vall  wm  between  tlie  Firths  of  Forth  and  Clyde*  Seve- 
ral inscriptions  relating  to  it  have  been  found  in  its  ruins.  One 
uf  them  mentions  Uie  name  of  L,  Urbicus^  and  tlie  rest  not  oiiljj 
point  out  the  legions  employed  about  it,  but  the  number  of  pac 
built  by  each  legion. 

Ssvi:Ri^ii  died  at  York,  in  the  year  210.  Herodi^il  says, 
ntkade  road^  and  bridges,  and  passed  die  rivers  and  dkckm  that 
were  the  boundaries  of  the  onpirew  Dion  Cassius  sa^^s  he  died 
in  the  third  year  afler  he  came  into  Dritaln.  He  mstrtLong  the 
l^reat  barrier  that  diWdes  the  bland  into  tvr^o  parts,  m  a  tiling 
existing  when  Severus  undertook  his  expedition ;  and  asserts 
that  tliis  emperor,  in  the  skirmishing  warfare  that  the  natives 
used  against  him^  and  in  clearing  mray  forests,  levelling  hiils^ 
draining  moriuses,  and  building  bridges^  lost  at  least  fiiXy  thou- 
sand men,  and  yet  persisted  in  his  design*  These  historians 
lived  in  the  time  of  Sevenis,  and  are,  by  far,  the  most  copious 
detailer!!  of  Im  actions  ;  but  neitlier  of  them  hint  a  word  about 
any  wall  tltat  he  built.  About  sixty-five  years  after  his  death* 
8partian,  however,  not  only  asserts,  that  he  built  a  wall  eighty 
miles  in  lengthy  across  the  island^  but  that  it  was  the  chief  glory 
of  his  reign.  Aurelius  Victor  says«  it  was  thirty-three  miles 
long;  Eutropius  has  it  thirty- two;  and  Ossorius  and  Casaio^ 
dorus  make  it  one  hundred  and  thirty*tH*o,     All  that  mention  hk 

agree 
•  Script  H4»l»  Aug.  p.  51.  t  Ibid.  13f . 


I 


KORTIfUMBSItLA!f».  5 

ftgtn  that  it  pftssed  from  tea  to  sea.  Spartian  calls  it  mums 
M  fillum;  Victor  has  niurus  in  hk  large  work,  and  valhim 
ii  Us  ftbridgment.  Eutropius  has  Galium.  Orosiufi  8ftyf» 
ou^um  fossian  finnittimumque  vallmn.  Cassiodorus,  too,  haa 
Talliun.  Antoninus,  and  the  author  of  the  Nolitia,  both  of  whom 
rrotebdure  A*  D.  4 J 6,  use  the  phrases  ad  vallum,  and  per 
KoettD  valli.  Gildas  quotes  the  word*  of  Orosius,  and  Bede  not 
^fme$  the  tame  terms,  but  defines  them :  **  A  murus,*'  sayi 

^  ^'ifl  made  ol' stones  ;  but  a  vallum,  b}'  which  camps,  intended 
t0  repd  tlte  force  of  an  enemy,  are  defended,  U  made  of  turf 
and  earth,  piled  up  high,  like  a  murus,  above  the  ground,  W9 

tin  the  front,  tlie  place  whence  the  earth  wsB^  raised,  forms  a 
and  upon  this  are  fixed  stakes  made  of  very  strung  beams 
of  wood**     In  Alfred's  translaiion  of  this  diaptcTj  tlie  words  are 

•]  hit  bejypbe  -j  jcpaeftrTObe  mib  bice  ^  mib 
eoji^pealle  pjiam|-ffi  roj^  pjiam  oJ?pam  elpeop- 

oUm  oerobum  f .  BoethJus  mentions  Severus  as  repairing  Ha- 
drian^B  vallum ;Suritia, as fimshing  Hadrian*^  vallum;  and  Panct- 
roHas  as  repairing  Hadrian's  vallum,  Tvhich  had  fallen  down.  Last 
af  •&,  that  penetrating  and  judicious  ontiquary,  Richard  of  Ci* 
rcDcester,  says,  that  "  Uie  unconquerable  Severus,  having  rapidly 
dnVen  back  the  enemy,  repaired  the  vallum  of  Hadrian,  which 
UBS  now  ruinous,  and  gave  It  its  greatest  perfection  |. 

Speaking  of  the  Romans,  in  the  year  409,  Bede  also  says, 
**  we  have  before  related  that  they  dwelt  with  hi  the  vallum 
vliich  Sererufi  made  across  the  island;  and  this  is  abundantly 
eridecit,  by  the  cities,  courts,  bridges,  and  high  roads,  still  to  be 
leeq  on  its  southern  side.y 

In  414,  a  Roman  legion,  under  Gallio  of  Havenka,^ 
assisted  the  Britons  in  driving  back  their  enemies.  It  exhorted 
diem  also  to  build  a  stone  xvaU^  to  defend  them  against  future  in* 
foadt,  and  then  returned  home  in  triumph.  But  the  islanders 
being  de^cient  in  artificers  they  composed  the  wall  more  of 

B  3  earth 

*  £cc  Hist  I.  i.  c.  5*  t  Smttiii  Eedc,  p«  476. 

t  I.,  fi,  e.  V.  f  t^*  II  Ece,  Hiit.  L  i.  c,  U,        i  Codcii  TbeodosIL 


6  K0RT»UMJ)£RLAK9* 

earth  than  of  stone,  ai>d  on  that  account  it  availed  noth 
This  work  extended  from  the  city  Guidi,  on  the  east,  to  Al- 
claith  on  the  west ;  50  that  where  a  barrier  of  waters  was  want- 
ing, the  borders  were  secure  from  the  irruptions  of  the  enemy, 
under  the  shelter  of  the  wall.  Very  high  and  broad  vestiges  of 
thtfi  wall  are  still  discernible.  It  commences  about  two  miles 
from  the  mona«tery  of  iEbercumig,  and  terminates  at  Akluith^f 
Ai  Bede  no  where  mentions  the  wail  of  L.  Urblcus,  it  is  fihm 
that  this  passage  involves  a  mistake.  The  Britons  might  at 
this  time  repair  the  northern  barritr ;  it  is  certain  they  were 
not  the  first  to  rear  it. 

In  416  the  assistance  of  Rome  was  again  implored  by  the' 
Britons ;  another  legion,  coming  over  unexpectedly^  made  ter- 
rible havoc  among  the  enemy,  and  drove  them  into  their  own 
co^ntr^^  But  that  this  their  last  visit  to  Britain  might  be  of 
real  advantage,  they  exhorted  the  natives  to  emulate  the  valour 
of  their  enemies,  and  assisted  them  in  building  a  Jirm  stone  ivaH, 
from  the  one  sea  to  the  other,  between  those  cities  which  had 
been  erected  there  through  fear  of  the  enemy,  and  where  Seve- 
rus  had  fornierly  made  a  vallum*  Tliis  hitherto  famous  and  con- 
spicuous wall,  built  at  public  and  private  expence,  witli  such 
assistance  as  the  Britons  could  contribute,  ranged  in  a  right  line 
from  east  to  west,  and  was  eight  feet  broad  and  twelve  feet  high, 
as  is  evident  to  this  day*|: 

Bede  copied  this  account  from  Gildas,  Abbot  of  Bangor,  who 
finished  his  history  in  his  fiftieth  year>  and  ninety-six  years  after 
the  Romans  finally  quitted  the  island,  Bede  was  born  at  Monk- 
ton,  about  two  miles  from  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  wall, 
and  educated  at  Hexham,  wliich  is  near  the  middle  of  it.  Each 
of  the  rampires  would  exhibit  much  of  their  original  appearance 
in  his  time.  The  timber  he  mentions  in  the  vallum  might,  it  is 
probable,  still  be  seen  ;  and  the  stations,  castella,  and  turrets  of 
the  Theodosian  wall,  could  not  be  more  in  ruins  tlian  the  reli- 
gious houses  deserted  in  the  reign  of  King  Henry  the  Eighth 


»  B«d*HiH.  Ecf*Li.  c.  1«. 


f  Ibid. 


KORTtfUMBtRLAKI)*  7 

»re  It  present.     His  writings  prove  that  be  was  a  person  fur 

from  incurious,  and  it  is  no  improbable  coTijecture>  that  he  corn- 
Jiredthe  books  and  traditions  of  his  time,  with  inscriptions 
WMog  the  va^t  ruins  of  cities,  towers,  streets,  and  bridges,  he 
tneniions  as  still  existing  in  his  day.  When  to  all  this  we  add 
the  adrice  Ammianus  Marcellinus,  a  little  before  the  building 
of  this  wall,  gave  to  the  Emperor  Th eg dosi us,  and  his  son, 
**  tolraild  castles  on  the  frontier  of  the  empire,  a  mile  asunder, 
<od  joiaed  with  a  firm  wall  and  strong  towers,  and  that  these 
iorfniiet  be  garrisoned  by  the  landholders  adjoining;'*  when 
all  this  evidence  is  laid  together  it  seems  past  alt  doubt,  bat  that 
the  wall,  usually  attributed  to  Severus,was  built  sometime  about 
the  serenth  consulship  of  Theodoslus  the  Younger,  and  that  if 
^mig  did  any  thing  to  these  barriers,  it  consisted  in  nothing 
more  than  repairing  or  improving  tlie  vallum  of  Hadrian. 

Hutton,  in  his  account  of  the  Roman  Wall,  in  manifest  con- 
tradiction to  history,  and  all  good  criticism,  has  endeavoured  to 
prove  that  one  part  of  the  vallum  was  raised  by  Agricola,  and 
the  rest  of  it  by  Hadrian.     Agricola's  fortresses  were  all  In  the 
wtj"  of  castramentation.     If  Hadrian  had  a  partner  in  this  work 
it  WIS  certainly  Severus. 
A  Roman  Road  accompanied  these  works,  from  Wallsend 
Iwick  Chesters,  where  it  branched  off  towards  the  south, 
ing  through  Little  Chesters,  joined  them  again  at  Caer- 
Forran.     The  Mmden-xmy  extended  from  Caervorran  to  Whit- 
ley Castle,  and  from  thence  to  Wliellop  Castle,  in  Wi^stmore* 
land.     The  country  people  in  South  Tindalc  call  it  the  Made- 
way,  a  term  applied  to  it  before  there  were  any  other  made 
wny%  in  its  neighbourhood.     Over  Ridpath  Moor,  in  the  parish 
of  Hdtwhistie,  the  pavement  of  this  road  has  been  lately  raised, 
to  ossist  in  making  a  new  road,  from  Blenkinsop  to  Featlierstone- 
haugh  Castle.     WatUng  Street  enters  the  county  at  Ebcliester, 
crones  the  Tyne  at  Cor  bridge,  and  divides  into  two  branches 
•t  fiewciay,  a  short  distance  north   of  the  wall.     Tlie  western 
B  4  hranch 


8  KOHTUUMBEHLAKO. 

branch  p^ses  through  Ree4|idale  into  Scotland,  md  fats  itpta 
it  the  two  celebrated  staticms,  lUsingham  ami  Rochester,  and 
the  fine  camp  at  Makeaden ;  the  other  brunch  is  umiUy  caUed 
the  Devil^s  CofiseuMi/,  It  has  at  first  an  eastern  dir€«:tion  pset 
Ryal,  towards  Bolara,  and  from  thence  sweeping  away  by  Nether- 
witton,  and  over  Rimfiide  Moor,  it  bears  due  north,  and  entera 
Scotland  west  of  Berwick  upo^n  Tweed.  We  have  ako  traced  a 
Rotnan  paved  avzy,  from  the  eastern  gate  of  the  station  at  Ro* 
Chester,  over  Boleyard  Leae,  Braioshaw,  and  Yardhope,  past 
Hallystone  to  Sharperton,  and  were  told,  on  good  authority, 
that  it  extended  from  thence  to  the  DevU'd  Causeway*  On  the 
moor  on  the  north  side  of  Hallystone  Burn ;  it  \%  ten  feet  wide, 
and  still  remarkably  perfect. 

The  Roman  history  of  Britain  closes  in  446*  Yortigem, 
ambitiQus  enough,  but  too  ieeble-miuded  and  Ite^ntloua,  to 
manage  a  kingdom  in  desperate  circumstances,  wa«  nt  tliat  thne 
its  ruler.  At  bis  requeitt  Hengist,  a  young  Soaton,  brad  in  tlie 
Roman  armieS|  and  of  great  wi&dom  and  courage,  brougbt  ovor 
an  army  of  his  countrymen  to  asalst  the  Britons  in  reatraining  the 
ravages  of  tiie  Picts.  The  6r8t  object  of  their  miasion  being 
successful ly  effected,  the  Saxons  began  to  turn  thdr  anna 
against  their  employers  ;  and  after  a  etruggle  of  about  one  hun* 
dred  and  thirty  years  finally  completed  the  conquest  of  Britain^ 
Octa,  the  brother  of  Hengistj  and  Ebussa,  Octa's  son,  in  4<52» 
settled  on  the  north  side  of  the  Tyne,  and  then  cleared  the 
country  of  the  Britons  as  for  as  the  H umber.  They  and  their 
successors  were  styled  Ealdormen,  and  held  their  conquest  as  a 
fee  of  the  crown  of  Kent.*  There  were  no  kings  in  Northum- 
berland till  tlie  time  of  the  heptarchy,  when  Ida*  in  547,  as- 
sumed the  sovereignty  over  all  that  tract  of  country,  virhlch  lies 
between  the  two  seas,  north  of  the  Humbtr^  to  the  rivers  Forth 
nd  Clyde.f  It  was  divided  into  two  provinces. — Deira^  south  of 
ffhe  Tync,  and  Bernkia^  north  of  it;  each  province  having  at 

limes 
•  R«pin,  r.  149.  Setden.  Tit.  Hon.  511. 
t  Smitb'i  Bed,  pp,  55,  87,  <Ji4,    Gougli*5  Cajudca,  III.  t?4S. 


tknai  jtf  ftparate  kiog.  The  dynasty  of  Nortljumlman  kitigg 
eodod  mith  Eanred^  whp  l^ecame  tributary  to  Egbert,  king  of 
Vmmxt  mad  died  m  84L  ''  Thb  kingaam/'  mys  Milton^ 
^  uti  pQw  iiiUeii  to  diiire^rs;  their  kings,  on^  aflcr  anatlier,  so 
often  (tftoi  by  the  people,  no  man  Uuriiig,  though  never  so  am* 
lutioua,lo  tflkc  iip  a  sceptre,  wiuch  uiany  had  found  so  hot,"* 

Taking  ^vtuitagu  pf  the^  trouble  the  Danes  made  several 
de^erate  inroads  into  it ;  and,  in  B7C,  the  kingdom  of  Korthum- 
hcslMd,  nrhich  had  tiiHtcd  three  hoi^dred  and  thirty  years,  *^was 
famJad  out  moong  Danish  officers^^f  who  now,  as  possessors  of 
the  aoti,  began  to  plough  and  sou  4  From  ti)is  period  to  the 
^e  of  Ed«rard  the  Conit^ssor,  its  laws  Mere  Dnnisth,  wlien  tliejf 
were  incorporated  with  the  West  Saxoo  and  Mercian  codes^ 
oddie  whole  made  common  to  England,  under  the  name  of  th(t 
lavs  of  Edward.  Though  the  governors  of  Northumberland 
mere  sometimes  styled  kings  atler  tliu  heptarchy,  their  province 
was  dependeol,  and  their  most  usual  titie  wa.s  tliat  of  earl.  In 
970p  the  b^tediHsTf  governnient  of  the  whole  appearing  an  ele* 
maDO  too  liigh  for  a  subject,  Edgar  created  Oslaeh,  earl  of  the 
CMBaUfy,  between  the  H umber  and  tlie  Tees;  and  conferred  ike 
fame  dignity  on  Eadulf  En  ilthid,  with  the  country  from  the 
Tees  to  the  Forth. $  Continual  wars,  new  colonies  of  people, 
aaii  Uie  incessant  il actuation  of  power,  from  one  people  or 
fittnilj  to  another,  from  tlie  lull  of  Rome  to  the  Norman  con- 
fftteat,  caused  all  kinds  of  boundaries  to  be  very  unsettled* 
Mqrfkngnhprknd  was  abridged  of  its  extent  by  d«»grees.  All 
Am  distrott  from  the  Tweed  to  Edinburgh,  was  granted  I9 
K^mttli,  King  of  Scotlimd,  by  Edgar,  soon  after  his  accessioa 
tolliewlLole  English  monarciiy.jt  To  the  fnrmer  pcsscssions 
if  tkc  sew  of  Lindisfurne,  Gutted,  in  $04,  had  granted  the 
wlbole  qf  tibe  present  county  of  Duiham  ;f  Alfred  confirmed  the 
gaatf  and  the  bishops  of  Dudiam  ka«Q-hitherto  kept  possessiDH 

of 
^  •  Hift,  Efig.  5C0.  t  Kapiii,  I.  til.      HolL  Chi  on*  b.  vi.  c,  t5. 

t  8m.,  Cltro«.  |i,  eS.     Mnilros  Chron*  f  Sim.  Donel.  S04- 

I  RitlpsUi'ft  Bord.  Hist  p*  50.  f  Siin,  DirncL  p,  ^t. 


10  KORTHUMBERtAKD. 

of  that  territory  without  many  deprivations.  Ranulplm§  de 
Meschinefi  had  a  grant  of  Cumberlaiad,  from  William  the  Con- 
queror;* and  Robert  Mowbray,  who  rebelled  against  RufuSf 
and  died  in  Windsor  Castle,  after  ao  imprisonment  of  thirty 
years,  was  the  last  that  bore  the  official  title  of  Earl  of  Northum- 
berland.f  **  After  that  acra,  it  had  its  vice-conies^  or  high- 
sheriff,  and  was  distinguished  by  wards  and  baronies,  except 
when  it  was  in  the  hands  of  the  Bislmp  of  Durham/'f 

From  the  time  of  King  Stephen,  to  the  union  of  the  crowns 
of  England  and  Scotland,  in  James,  this  county  formed  a  con- 
spicuous part  of  the  theatre  of  the  border  wars ;  the  people 
of  Tindale  and  Reedsdale,  in  common  with  the  borderers  in 
Cumberland  and  Scotland,  being  in  these  times  nothing  less 
than  clans  of  lawless  banditti.  As  these  two  Northumbrian 
dales  were  not  subdued  by  the  Conqueror,  "  they  have  re- 
tained," says  Grey,  in  his  Chorographia,  **  to  this  day,  the 
ancient  laws  and  customs,  according  to  the  county  of  Kent, 
whereby  the  lands  of  the  father  is  equally  divided,  at  his  death, 
amongst  all  his  sonnes/*— "  There  is  many  every*  year  brought 
in  of  them,  and  at  the  assizes  are  condemned  and  hanged, 
sometimes  twenty  or  thirty.  They  forfeit  not  tJieir  iands,  ac- 
cording to  the  tenure  of  Gavel  kind,  the  father  to  bough»  the 
Sonne  to  the  plough.** — **  If  any  two  be  displeased,  they  ex- 
pect no  law,  but  hang  it  out  bravely^  one  and  his  kindred,  tbe 
other  and  his.'* — "  This  fighting  they  call  feides,  or  deadly 
fttde^  Since  the  union,  this  heathenish  bloody  custome  is 
feprei«edi^"  "  Both  these  valleys,"  says  Camden, ||  **  pro- 
duce notable  bog-trotters ;  and  both  have  their  hills  so  swampy 
on  the  top,  as  to  be  inaccessible  to  cavalry.  All  over  these 
wastes  one  sees  a  set  of  people,  like  the  ancient  Nomades,  of 
a  warlike  disposition,  wlio  watcli  here,  with  their  flocks,  from 
April  to  August,  in  scattered  huts,  called  Sheales."  **  Sucli 
adepts  were  they  in  the  art  of  thieving,  that  they  could  twist 

a  cow*s 
•  Goiigh'f  Ciiftid.  III.  209.  ♦  Witkin'i  I^^.  Aof.  S».  U&. 

t  Wtaiis,  I.  xiv*  i  P.  aa.  umo  1649.  jj  Gough,  IT).  ftSJ. 


IfOltTHVMBr  RLANV:  1 1 

A  cow^'i  bomv  or  mark  a  hors.»  so  that  its  owner  could  not  know 
it-  A  person  telling  King  James  a  surprising  fitory  of  n  cow 
thst  h&d  been  tiriven  from  the  north  of  Scotland  into  the  south 
aT  Engiandf  and,  escaping  from  the  herd,  had  found  her  way 
boroei  'the  most  surprising  p&rt  of  tlie  story,'  the  king  re* 
plied,  *  you  lay  least  stress  on,  that  she  pas&ed  unstolen  through 
the  debateable  land^*' " 

By  statutes  of  the  second  and  ninth  of  Henry  the  Fifth,  on 
complaint  of  murder  and  violent  outrages  committed  in  the 
franchises  of  Tindale,  Reedsdale,  and  Hexhamshire,  into  which 
diftricts  the  king's  writ  did  not  extend,  it  was  enacted,  that  all 
persons  committing  murders  within  these  iranchiseB  shall  be 
proceeded  against  by  commoo  law,  till  they  be  outlawed ;  and 
that  tlieir  lands  be  forfeited  to  the  liberties  they  belong,  or  to 
the  king,  as  tliey  happen  within  their  respective  limits.f  The 
**  Northe  Tyne  devidethe  Tyndale  frome  Northeum  bar  land. 
For  Tyndall,  thowghe  it  be  a  parte  of  Northumberland,  yet  it 
k  a  parte  privilegyd  within  it  selfe.j: " 

Harrison,  with  his  usual  plainness,  says,  "  men  have  doubted 
vhetlier  thieves  or  true  men  doo  most  abound  iti  these  dales* 
Nevertheless,  wthens  that  by  tlie  diligence  cheefelie  of  Mais- 
tcr  GUpiD,  and  finalUe  of  other  learned  preachers,  the  grace  of 
God  working  with  them,  they  have  beene  called  unto  some 
obedience  and  zeal  unto  the  Word,  it  is  found  that  they  have 
fo  well  profited  by  the  same,  that  at  this  present  their  former 
lanage  demeanour  is  very  much  abated,  and  their  barbarous 
vtldnesse,  and  fiercesse  so  qualified,  that  there  is  great  Iiope 
kk  of  ilieir  reduction  unto  ciuilitie,  and  better  order  of  be- 
Iiauiour,  than  hitlierto  tltey  have  beene  acquninted  withatl."  f 
'*  In  thin  dreadful  country,  where  no  man  would  even  travel 
diat  could  help  it,  Mr,  (ill pin  never  failed  to  spend  some  part 
of  the  year.  He  had  set  places  for  preaching,  which  were  as 
legularly  attended  as  the  assize  towns  of  a  circuit.  The  dis- 
interested 
Gn|t.  Life  of  Gitp.  175,  t  Krble^f  Stat,  at  Large.  rp.«l3,  470. 

t  UL  If,  Vol.  VII.  pt.  i,  fol.  75.  i  De«r.  of  Brit,  T*.  u  c.  14, 


mt^esteil  pains  he  thus  took  among  Uiese  barbarous  people, 
W)d  the  good  office*  he  wbb  always  ready  to  do  them,  drew 
from  them  the  siocerest  expressions  of  gratitude.  How  well 
his  nttrae  was  revered  amongst  them,  one  metODce  wiU  diew: — 
By  the  carelessness  of  his  servants^  biii  horios  were  one  daj 
fitolen.  The  oews  was  quickly  spread,  and  every  one  ex* 
pressed  the  highest  mdignation  at  the  faet.  The  thief  was  re- 
joicing over  his  prUe,  when,  by  the  report  of  tJie  country,  he 
found  whose  horses  he  had  taken.  Terrified  at  wliat  he  had 
done,  he  instanUy  came  trembling  back,  confessed  the  iactt 
restored  the  horses^  and  declared  he  believed  the  devil  wtmld 
have  seized  him  directly,  Imd  he  carried  ihom  oS**  knowing 
them  to  be  Mr,  Gilpin's/** 

The  progress  of  goad  principle  and  civilizatbn  waa,  however^ 
but  s!ow  amongst  them,  for  in  the  preamble  of  a  border  treaty^ 
made  in  1596,  mention  occurs  **  of  tlie  lamentable  effects 
which  the  lawless  and  disobedient  disposition  of  tho  most  of  ibe 
inhabitants  thereof,  emboldened  witli  long  impunity^  and  lol«« 
ration  of  careless  ofHcera,  hath  wrought  between  the  marches, 
to  die  offence  of  Ciod*s  most  holy  majesty,  and  tlte  great  dis- 
honour of  the  princes,  and  pitiful  desolation  of  both  tlie  bor- 
ders, exhausted  by  these  means  both  of  inhabitants  and  goods." 
In  this  treaty  it  was  also  recommended,  **  that  the  princes  bd 
most  humbly  and  earnestly  solicited  to  cause  God's  ministera 
of  the  word  to  be  planted  in  every  border  church,  to  inform 
the  lawless  people  of  their  duty,  and  to  watch  over  their  man* 
ners ;  and  that  the  principal  inhabitants  q£  each  parish  be  put 
in  surety  to  their  prince,  for  due  reverence  to  be  used  towards 
their  pastorB  in  ibeir  ofBccs,  and  the  safety  of  their  persons ; 
and  thai^  to  this  effect,  order  may  be  timely  taken  for  repara- 
tian  of  the  decayed  churches  within  tlie  bounds.f  ** 

**  In  wto  a  wretched  condition  our  English  bordert  were 
before  the  union  of  the  cro^Tis  (nor  were  the  Scotch  in  any 
better)  appears  from  that  amazing  list  that  we  have  of  the 

many 
*  Gilp.  Lifcaf  Gilp.  179»  18 1.       i  Bp,  Nicb,  Bofd*Law«,  1(M. 


MOATHtMBBRLAND.  13 

Mitfiy  hujtdrecb  diai  were  cotitmually  employed  in  night* 
wmchcB  I  the  rest  of  the  neighbourliood  being  obliged,  aC  all 
kiUi%  to  fise  attd  follow  the  fray :  and  the  latter  [ynrt  of  the 
border  service  reached  as  far  m  the  county  of  Lanoj^ier* 
dioiigb  the  chief  of  iu  terrors  were  marc  confined.*'  ^  To  pre* 
vmiiL  ^bem  crik^  Lord  Wharton,  in  his  letter  to  the  conunis- 
iionftn  bt  mp^mJUd  for  the  division  of  land^  in  the  east  and 
maiih  mtrches,  »ys»  nothing  better  could  be  done  **  thiUi 
mren^wa^  the  county  with  enclofiures,  hedges^  aiid  ditch68; 
isd  I  aiiilMriae  and  command  you,  in  the  klng^tt  highnctt* 
MBMit  tv  laus^  ftfl  Mich  portions  thereof  as  be  convenieiit  fat 
ttiigi^  ■■mdiaurr,  or  grassings^  to  be  enclosed  with  ditchi3% 
fiv^  quarters  in  breadth,  and  six  quarters  in  depths  and  i#  b& 
dosUe  set  witli  quick *^rood|  and  hedged  above  three  quartei* 

m         MAftcit  I»  the  same  as  mark  ;  it  fiignifie«  a  boundary.     Th© 

p       cillt  if  Bttc^uis  origLQated  in-  thi3  ofBce  of  warden  of  marchies. 

"Die  Englcsh  bordert  were  divided  into  three  of  these  marched* 

The  wtntem  march  extended  &om  tlie  westera  sem  to  Tindale. 

The  middle  march  comprised  Tindale  and  Reedsdale;  and  the 

dttem  march  reached  frem  Reedsdale  to  Tweedmouth*     The 

office  of  lord  warden -general  being  of  a  Diilitary  nature^  ira0 

fvied   witli   burge  authortties,    and   usually  bestowed  tm  the 

tithes  or  eiiHs  of  Northumberland.     The  executive  part  of  the 

office  was>  however,   mostly  put  into  the  hands  of  a  deputy, 

under  whom  were  tliree  deputy  wardens^     One  o£  the^te  officers, 

by  the  king's^  oomniiBHioa,  sat  as  judge  in  the  mardi-courts, 

^^^  and 

^^^K  *  Bp*  Nich.  Bord.  littws,  Pref*  xxxiti. 

^^^^  Ibiif.  p,  ftO,  "  Wadv/*  says  G-trdiiicr,  **liavc  ailiHjrcd  ttrcporerty 
^^^^r  Kortkumbcrbtid,  as  welt  they  may ^  fur  what  with  t]je  bloody  tyrants, 
H  the  Scotftf  on  tlic  north  of  that  poor  coiuny,  and  oppre^ive  corpora- 
H  tfen  o#  K«wca&tk  on  the*  ^utU  tlit^«of»  bounded  in  with  hiefh  land?^  on  the 
V  w€ft«  and  tbenea  i>t)  ilie  ea^f,  it  can  get  notlutu^  but  strokes,  aixl  woriied 
ant  of  what  they  tiave,  aad  uot  being  tolMated  to  make  use  of  tht'ir  owo^ 
and  cold  blast i  froai  the  lea,  &c.    £ng.  Oriev.  Dis.  p.  i'i9. 


H  ItOKTmmBERLAND. 

%mi  Jtiifft^  i^  ttuUng  treaties  with  Scotlandt  and  in 

Most  of  the  lands  of  the  county  were  held  of  the  king, 
knights*  service.  The  barons^  and  people  of  quality,  dwek 
strong  casdes«  or  moated  towers.  The  middle  classes  of  cbe 
people  held  their  lands  of  the  barons,  chieHy  in  soccage  ti 
and  hved  in  buildings  called  peels,  or  piles,  in  the  ground 
of  which  their  cattle  were  kept  in  the  nights,  and  the 
rooms  reserved  for  the  use  of  the  family*  The  lowest  sort,  in 
common  with  the  middle  class,  were  subject  to  a  most  grievous 
service,  in  keeping  night-watches  at  all  the  fords,  passes,  smd 
Inlets  of  valleys,  to  guard  against  the  incursions,  and  spread 
alarm  at  the  approach  of  the  enemy.  When  the  opposite  bor- 
derers made  their  appearance,  every  man  Within  hearing  of  th« 
blowing  of  the  horn,  was  obliged,  on  pain  of  death,  to  rise 
and  follow  the  fray.  The  pursuit  of  hot*trode  is  thus  men- 
tioned in  the  treaty  of  1563 :  **  The  parties  grieved  to  follow 
their  lawful  trode  with  hound  and  horn,  hue  and  cry,  and  all 
other  accustomed  manner  of  fresh  pursuit,  for  the  recovery  of 
their  goods  spoiled,"* 

This  slavery,  and  all  this  barbarism  and  conteDtion,  have 
happily,  since  the  union,  been  gradually  disappearing.  The 
country  has  been  enclosed  far  up  the  valleys  of  Tindale  and 
Reedsdale,  and  the  refinements  of  great  civilization  now  pre- 
vail, where  less  than  two  centuries  since  robbery  was  a  trade 
aind  if  the  inhabitants  were  not  pursuing  a  horde  of  Scotch 
banditti,  with  blazing  faggots,  blood* hounds,f  and  savage  cries, 
they  were  employed  in  burning  the  villages,  or  plundering  the 
tamis  of  Liddesdale. 

Tins  county  lies  between  54*  5l'  and  55**  51'  of  latitude,  and 

^om 
•  Leg,  Match,  itfZ. 

t  A  Mil  e  tvuy  of  flopping  llic  dog  was  t{>  spill  blood  ujiOD  tltc  track, 
whitti  dcitroycd  tlie  dbcdmioatiag  6oeiiess  uf  bis  sceiit.  A  captive  wa* 
mmctmeA  sacrificed  on  facb  occasions.    Lay  of  Last  Miiistrd»  caato  i. 


M 


irOltrnUMBERLANB.  1$ 

ftom  J*  to  2^  ^3'  of  longitude,  west  of  Londoo.  It  hss  the 
C(w»fjr  of  Durham  on  the  south,  Cumberland  on  the  west, 
ScDtknd  on  the  north,  and  the  Gentian  Ocean  on  the  east. 
BedHogtooshire^  Islandshire,  Norhamshire,  are  in  the  county, 
and  subject  to  the  courts  of  Durham  ;  but  the  liberties  of  Hex- 
Inn,  Tindale,  and  Reedsdale,  liave  been  annexed  to  the  county 
of  Northumberland,* 

In  civil  matters,  Northumberland  is  divided  into  six  wards, 
and  six  hundred  and  thirty-five  constableries ;  and  in  charch 
a&irt  into  five  deanries,  and  seventy-three  parishes.f  The 
names  of  the  wards  are  Tindale^  Morpeth,  Castle,  Glendale, 
Bahnborough,  and  Coquetdale  ;  and  of  the  deanries^  New- 
OBtJe,  Corbridge,  Bamburgh,  Alnwick,  and  Morpeth,  all  of 
wiach  are  in  the  a^^chdeacoury  of  Northumberland  and  diocese 
of  Durham.  The  churches  of  Hexhani,  AUondale^  and  St* 
Johnlee,  with  their  respective  chapelsi,  are  peculiars  of  the  see 
of  York ;  and  Throckington  is  a  peculiar  of  the  church  of  York. 
According  to  the  returns  of  popuiation  made  to  parliament  in 
1801,  this  county,  with  Berwick-upon-Tweed,  contained 
26|518  inhabited  houses,  35,503  families,  and  157,101  persons; 
of  whom  73,357  were  males,  83,744'  females,  25,738  employed 
iQ  tmde  and  manufactures,  and  23,190  in  agriculture.  By  tlie 
lecoilDt  given  to  the  House  of  Lords,  in  1805,  it  contains  1809 
itttole  miles,  or  1,157,7()0  statute  acres  ;  each  (square  mile,  of 
910  acres,  having  eighty-seven  persons,  and  the  total  number 
of  persons  157,383, 

By  the  returns  made  for  the  county,  exclusive  of  Berwick- 
upon-Tweed,  under  the  delencc  and  security  act|  October  the 
ihitli,  1601,  It  appears  that  t24t741  persons  ofiered  their  ser- 
vices in  various  capacities  against  the  enemy,  in  case  of  inva- 
iioo ;  one  hundred  and  forty  refused  to  serve  in  any  capacity 
irhalevcr;  there  weos  also  sixty-five  aliens*  sixty-five  qiiakers, 

and 

•  PaltonS  Stiitnt<?s,  p*  970. 

f  loclottve  of  the  parishes  of  HeilUn^toii^  Burvijck,  Holy  Islaadj  oa^ 
^Mbm,  whick  are  in  Uie  county  ofDmlj&ut*  <Jaai|u  to  Armbt.  Map,  p.  1^, 


10  KORTItVMHintJtStW  ^ 

aiHl  in  all  99,231  persons  returned.  The  ddlSct  In  thef  ttHal 
number  ocoarred  in  the  Hste  of  infirm  pertans^  wdtnen,  anti 
chililren. 

The  pit  Goal  of  this  county  i»  th«  gr^at  iUplc  of  its  trade. 
It  is  found  in  the  greatest  abundtnce»  and  of  the  best  (faallty, 
where  the  strata  which  a<:compflny  it  are  unconiiected  witli 
limestone.  When  it  burns  to  a  hard  cinder^  and  learres  feir 
ashes,  it  is  best  suited,  both  on  accout^t  of  heirt  and  cleanliness, 
for  domestic  purposes.  It  is  fortunate,  lio^ever,  that  cowl  ^und 
near  iimestone  answers  bc^t  for  burning  it.  A  line  drawn  front 
Alnemouth^  by  the  sea  coasts  t6  Tynemouth>;  ^om  thence  by 
the  southern  bounilsRry  o^the  county,  into  the  parish  of  Bywell, 
and  from  Bywell  eo  Alrtemoath,  nearly  ejccludes  all  the  lime- 
sCdArarraid,  and  inclosot  die  vamt  v&lmable  of  the  coal*^  Thiv 
di^Cricti  as  ftktf  aa  iv  ha»  been  pieffocdr  into,  ts  found  to  consiEt  o^ 
strata  #f  vavioua  Idnda  of  Ailodow  stone,  schiitus^  and  coaT* 
Bedg  of  tfdIIMCto  iMAialiy  iki  bdt1>  §tme  md  beneath  the  coal- 
fffinifi^  OAd  af^  o^en  ctifckly  and  beauti^lly  impressed  with  ve- 
gecabla  tWm*?,  such  as  fetfoev  vetches,  and  grasses ;  we  have 
seen^  ems  of  barley,  ai*d  the  leaves  of  pine  apples,  taken  from 
them,  f  in  the«e  btids  are  also  found  layers  of  iron-stones,  some- 
times in  nodulee^;  more  fa*quently  in  rhoinbords,^  with  the  cor- 
ner? rounded  o^  Sometimes  large  trees  are  found,  extending' 
out  of  the  clay  into  the  stone  strata,  as  at  Kenton,  where  arc 
seats  of  i^oite,  hewn  frotn  one  of  the<;e  remarkable  fossils,  that 
chew  the  yearly  rings  ot  the  tree,  and  the  roughness  of  its  bark. 
Pieces  of  half  c^lrboOated  wood,  apparently  of  the  pine  tribe, 
have  also  been  fouiUl  amortg^ft  Che  coal— wHich  seems  to  establtsh 
an  opinion  entertained  by  jfieteral  vefy  able  and  inquisitive  men, 
that  coal  is  a  vegetable  f^tib<iiftrfC0  J-*-the  i^omains  of  fiw^ts  over- 
^4ielmed\v  extraordirtarj.-  inundaiions  of  the  ocean. 

In  e*very  coal  district  the  ^trfttfHcatioii  which  attends  the  fossil 

always 
*  Oen.  Mew,  p*  !>0, 
f  «#e  Wlitlrlmr»rs  Oriff,  and  Faim,  p.  5K)3.    Iliittoflrs  Ed,  17?S, 
I  Bt and* Newc,  Tl.  Q4S. 


VORTtlirMBEltANl).  17 

tmuiniites,  and  is  iUKlefined  and  disordered^  as  it  ap- 
\  to  moimtauiB  compoeetl  of  granite  or  porphyry ;  a  cir- 
cusiitaiice  which  vrould  induce  the  belief  that  substaoccjs  of  tins 
Icaifl  rise  from  beneath  the  coaJ,  and  that  the  coal  itself  never 
Uam  fiir  from  the  suriace;*    The  atrata  in  Northumberland  gene* 
filly  dips  or  incJinea  towards  the  east;  each  stratum,  too,  in 
dli0  tHne  dialricty  usually  keeps  its  parallelism,  with  respect  to 
tlioee  nunediately  above  and  below  it,«  through  all  the  confu- 
mm  ^thoae  perpendicular  rents  and  chasms,  which,  in  mining 
tlfflgiMge,  are  termcil  dikes^  sUps^  hitches^  and  troubles*     Some  of 
AnebliaHnB  are  tilled  up  with  substances  awept  into  them,  as 
H  wvM  seem*  from  the  surface,  such  as  clay,  sand,  and  round 
rtmtfw     Some  of  them  are  the  receptacles  of  metals  and  beau* 
tUU  w^%J%f  and  others  are  composed  of  basalt,  a  substanc«i  bear- 
ing »  stnmg  resemblance  to  lava,  and  which  seems  to  have 
bMMd  but  ftmai  the  interior  paru  of  the  earth.     The  biutilt  dilce 
la  tte  c^  mine  at  Walker  is  cased  with  the  cinder  of  no^^* 
Tlie  proceases  of  nature  haive,  however,  been  carried  oa  in  ao 
large  «  aolet  that  we  can  seldom  comprehend  tho  principles  she 
acta  vpoii.     These  dikes  vary  much,  both  in  their  wideness  and 
^mwcAmt  they  frequently  break  the  untfortfi  iticlinatioii  of  the 
Hata  ta  fio  great  a  degree,  that  on  each  side  uf  them  the  part* 
faipi  of  the  same  seam  are  often  elevated  or  depressed  several 
hH  6rocD  each  other* 

r.  Biac  Nab  eatunated  ihe  e^ctent  of  the  coal  fields  (n  Kor- 
and  DurhAm  at  twenty  miles  by  dlYt^en,  or  three 
hundred  square  miles ;  and  computed  thai  one  square  mile  waa 
efud  to  tJie  consumption  of  one  year.  Supposing  lus  caicula- 
IM  tnie,  and  tlic  consumption  on  thb  proportion,  the  coal 
w«aid  last  three  hundred  and  seventy  years*  But  large  tracts  of 
^km  diatrict  liave  bocn  already  excavated,  and,  unless  other 
lemt  be  discovered  than  have  been  brought  into  the  doctor^s 
acoowil,  the  trade  cannot  possibly  exist  to  the  extent  of  hit  cal* 
orisilk»i»*  Messrs*  Bailey  and  Cully  Iiave  estimated  its  dura^ 
tiou  at  eight  hundred  and  twenty^five  years.* 
Vat.  XIL  C  Priov 

•  Gen,  View,  19. 


18 


KORTHUMBEIILAND. 


Prior  to  Mr.  Newcommon'a  application  of  steam  to  raising: 
water  from  coal  mines,  both  the  water  and  coal  were  usually 
raised  by  engines,  xcrougkt  by  horses^  a  method  stiU  in  use  among 
the  land-sale  collieries.  Two  centuries  ago,  however,  we  find 
a  patent  granted  by  James  the  Sixtli,  of  Scotland,  for  the  disco- 
very of  an  engine  for  raising  water  from  coai  mines.  ♦  In  1630 
a  charter  was  also  given  to  a  person  called  David  Ramsay  for 
a  similar  invention,  f  Master  Beaunoonl  brought  with  him 
*•  rare  engines  to  draw  water  out  of  pits.'*f  At  the  coUierlei 
at  Luroley,  about  1676,  '^  the  engines  ivere  placed  in  the  lowest 
place^f  that  there  may  be  the  less  way  for  the  water  to  rise  ;  and 
if  there  be  a  running  stream  to  work  the  engines  it  is  happy* 
Chain  pumps  are  the  best  engines,  for  they  draw  constant  and 
even:  but  they  can  have  but  two  stories  of  them;  the  second 
being  with  an  axle-tree  of  seven  or  eight  fathoms,  and  the 
deepest  etory  is  wrought  by  buckets,  and  a  wheel  and  ropes,  with 
the  force  at  the  top."  §  Though  the  power  of  steam,  as  appli- 
cable to  mechanics,  was  known  so  early  ai  1655,  as  is  evident 
from  the  Marquis  of  Worcester's  Century  of  Inventions,  we 
have  no  account  of  steam  engines  in  these  collieries  before  the 
beginning  of  the  'last  century.  The  first  in  Northumberland 
was  erected  at  Bykcr,  in  17 14-,  by  the  son  of  a  Swedish  noble- 
man, who  taught  mathematics  in  Newcastle.  This  powerful  en- 
gine is  now  in  common  use  in  all  the  large  cotlieries.  As  sim- 
plifiers  of  it  the  names  of  Messrs.  Bolton  and  Watt,  as  well  as 
that  of  the  ingenious  builder  of  the  Eddystone  light-house^  will 
be  long  remembered, 

The  shaft  of  the  coal  mine  at  St,  Anthony's,  near  Newcastle, 
was  two  hundred  and  seventy  yards  deep,  and  passed  through 
sixteen  seams  of  coal.  The  seam  called  the  High  Main  was  six 
feet,  the  Low  Main  six  feet  and  a  half,  the  tenth  seam  three 
feet,  the  thirteenth  three  feet  tliree  inches,  and  the  fourteenth 
three  feet  two  inches  deep,  making  in  all  twenty-two  feet  of 
workable  coal.     The  shafl  of  Montague  Main,  three  miles  west 


•  Am.  Hiic.  of  Edinij.  66.  t  Rym.  Feed.  L  xix*  f,  189* 

\Onf§  Cboro.  26.  j  Kertli'i  Life  of  Guilibnl,  p.  1 J7;    Urand. 


KOHTHUMBEALAN0*  19 

of  Kewciiille»  was  two  hundred  and  forty-five  yards,  had  (liieQn 
co^  aeama^  four  of  which  were  workable*  and  measured  thirteen 
kei  and  a  half.  The  Low  Main  at  WiUington,  about  five  mile» 
list  of  Newcastle!  is  two  hundred  and  eighty  yards  below  the 

Theophrastus^  tn  his  History  of  Stones,  has  described  coal  m 
t  tiiati  of  au  earthy  nature,  that  kindles  and  burns  like  char- 
cool,  and  is  used  by  smitlis.  The  Britons  had  a  primitive  i^rm 
(or  it;  and  a  oelt,  or  axe  of  flint,  vms  found  in  a  coal  vein  ex- 
poied  lo  the  day  in  Craig-y-Parc,  in  Monmoathsliirc,  f  circnm- 
Hances  which  favour  the  conjecture  that  the  early  Britons  used 
Goftl.  The  Komans  evidently  made  use  of  them.  Siculu^ 
flaccus  says  they  were  one  of  the  things  made  use  of  fur  land- 
tnarks;  and  St-  Augustine  describes  them  as  applied  to  that  pur- 
pose from  their  imperishable  nature :  "  They  who  pitch  land- 
marks are  wont  to  throw  them  underneath,  to  convince  any 
lit^tous  pereoni  who  should  afiirmy  though  ever  6o  long  aBer» 
that  no  land -mark  was  there."  X  Ho  man  coins  were  found  in  a 
large  heap  of  coal  dndi^rs  at  North  Bierly,  in  Yorki*J)ire»  J 
**  There  is  a  coalry  not  far  from  Benwell,  a  part  of  which  is 
Judged,  by  those  who  arc  best  skilled  in  such  affairs,  to  have  heen 
wroagltt  by  the  Romans."  ||  Small  coals  and  cinders  have  been 
Vttsed  with  the  lime  used  in  several  of  tlie  Roman  stations ;  and 
•*  in  digging  up  some  of  the  foundations  of  their  walled  city 
Magna,  or  Caenorran,  in  176^2,  coal  cinders,  some  very  large, 
were  turned  up^  glowed  in  the  fire  like  other  cinders^  and  not 
|o  be  known  from  tlicm  nhen  taken  ouL*'^ 

Though,  by  a  grant  dated  A,  D.  S52,  twelve  cart  loads  of  fossil 
coiiJ  Crpselp  po^  Vp  jpi^j^atl**)  were  to  be  yearly  paid  to  the 
^bbcy  of  Peterborough,  yet,  during  the  Saxon  and  Banish  agea 
W  thlfi  country,  and  for  upwards  of  one  hundred  years  after  the 
€»nf{uest,  coab  are  never  mentioned.     Henry  the  Third  granted 

C  2  a  charter 

•  GcD.  View,  pp.  1^,  17.  t  Pcunanl'rt  Wales,  17, 

iUb.  d.  cif.  Dei.  21.  c.  4.        $  Whit.  Mauc         [1  Huis.  Brit.  Rom*  va«- 
f  WM*,  IL  p»  119.  ••  8»i*  Chroa. 


ift  KORTITUMBIERLAKD. 

k  charter  to  Newcastle,  December  the  first,  1259,  *'IQ  digcoab 

knd  stones,  on  the  common  soil  of  that  town,  witliout  the  wallt 
thereof,  in  a  place  calJed  the  Castle-iield  and  the  Forth/'  •  In 
an  in<]U]sitioB,  dated  1245,  it  Is  calJed  carbo  maris i  and,  thir^* 
six  years  after,  the  coal  trade  had  increased  so  much  aa  to  doubit 
the  worth  of  the  town  of  Newcastle. 

The  use  of  this  articJe  was  so  great  amongst  the  artificers  in 
London  in  1306,  that  it  was  considered  a  public  nuisance,  and 
prohibited  under  fcvcre  penalties,  f  Soon  after  they  were, 
however,  in  use  in  the  king's  palace.  %  -^neas  Sylviua  §  says, 
that  when  he  visited  Scotland  the  poor  people  were  content  t0 
receive,  as  alms,  pieces  of  stone,  impregnated  with  tnilammabie 
sub8tancei,  which  they  bum  instead  of  wood,  of  which  their 
country  is  destiitde,  *•  Colys  will  not  byrne  withowte  wodd."  H 
**  Their  greatest  trade  beginnetli  now  to  grow  from  the  forge 
to  the  kitchen  and  hall,  as  may  appeare  alreadie  in  most  cities 
and  townes  that  lie  about  the  coast,  where  they  have  but  little 
other  fewel!,  except  it  be  turffe  or  hassocke,  I  tnaruell  not  a 
little  that  there  is  no  trade  of  these  into  Sussex  and  Southamp- 
ton shire,  for  want  whereof  the  smiths  doo  worke  their  iron  with 
charcoale*'*  ^  "  Within  thirty  j^'cares  last  the  nice  dams  of  Lon- 
don would  not  come  into  any  house  or  roome  where  sea  coales 
were  burned ;  nor  willingly  eat  of  the  meat  that  was  either  eo4  or 
roasted  with  sea  coal  fire/*  ♦♦ 

Tinmouth  priory  had  a  colliery  at  El  wick,  which  in  1330  wag 
let  at  the  yearly  rent  of  five  pounds ;  in  1530  it  was  let  for 
twenty  pounds  a  year,  on  condition  that  not  more  than  twent|r 
chaldron  should  be  drawn  in  a  day ;  and  eight  years  after  at 
fifly  pounds  a  year,  without  restriction  on  the  quantity  to  be 
wrought*  ft     In  Richard  the  Second^s  time  Newcastle  coak 

were 

•Gurd.  Ettg.  Griev.  p,  ^t 

♦  Pryaw,  4  Tt»t.  18/.    Stow^  Aua,  f,  1025.    An.  1633, 

f  Braod'A  Newc.  II*  tM,  §  Opera,  p.  445. 

II  NDrtbiim.  House  BkC  Anuo.  151^* 

f  HarmuD't  Dctc  of  £ns*  p-  ^^^'  Ett,  1807.  *•  9tow*f  Ami.  nl  f4i|^ 

ft  Brand's  Kewc.  IL  fB5,  f M. 


K01tTttUMBEJlLAKI7« 


^^llrere  aold  at  \Vliitby  at  three  shiUiogs  and  fotirpeoce  per  ckal- 

■       dim :  *  and  in  the  time  of  Henry  the  Eighth  their  price  wa| 

'  iw^repmce*  a  chaldron  in  NewcastJe;  in  London  <  about  tour 

I^tiiUings;'  and  '  b  France  they  sold  for  thirteen  noble!»  per 
clialdrotu* 
By  statute  of  the  nintli  of  Henry  the  Fifth,  chap,  10^  conunii- 
atoners  were  appointed  to  measure  the  portaj^e  of  keeU  or  vesflek 
which  conveyed  the  coals  6rom  the  «iathei  to  the  ships.  Theso 
keels  had  usually  contained  twenty  chaldrona  a  piece ;  but  as 
not  fritfichised  of  Newcastle  paid  a  duty  of  twopence 
obaldfon  to  tJie  king,  in  order  to  evade  a  part  6f  it,  they  in- 
ihe  portage  of  their  keels,  without  the  knowledge  of  the 
officers  of  die  customs,  f 

Queen  Elisabeth  obtained  a  lease  of  the  manoiB  and  coal- 
iaii»a  of  Gateahead  and  \Miickham^  which  she  aoon  transferred 
to  the  Earl  of  Leicester.  He  assigned  it  to  his  secretary 
Sutton,  tJ»e  founder  of  the  Charter  House,  who  also  made  assiga* 
nent  of  it  to  Sir  W,  Riddell  and  others  for  the  use  of  tlie  mayor 
and  biflrgesses  of  Newcastle,  This  circumstance  was  much 
of  in  London,  as  a  scandalous  monopoly,  which  had 
coals  to  rise  to  the  rate  of  nine  shillings  a  chaldron* 
Otber  grierances  were  odded<  The  company  of  ho$tmen,  in 
Mewcasde,  granted  to  the  queen,  in  ItKK),  a  duty  of  twelvepenca 
pff  chaldron;  and  two  years  ader  the  hostmen^  by  a  private 
■|ifwiin  lit  among  themselves,  fixed  the  price  at  ten  shillings 
far  the  besty  for  the  second  sort  nine  shtlliogs,  and  for  tha 
'  meane  coles'  eight  shillings  per  chaldron* 

This  trade  had  now  advanced  to  great  importance.  In  th% 
latter  end  of  Queen  Elizabeth's  reign  the  duty  of  fuur{)ence  a 
ciialdron  produced  10,0001.  a  year.  Upwards  of  400  ships 
irtre  constantly  employed  in  it,  and  a  deet  of  Biiy  sm\  wcni 
Uden  from  Newcastle  to  different  ports  of  France,  wlule  the 
Dutch  and  Danes  supplied  the  Flennish  ports. ;[  A  year  afler 
'5,675  tons  of  coals  were  shipped  irom  the  port  of  Newcastle, 

C  3  The 

'  Ui4rUon  J  Whitby,  p,  SSO.    t  Eebk*t  SUt.  at  JUrgt,  p.  134>.     •  An.  1 61 V 


JS  "^^^^^  KORTnUMBERLANI 

Hie  arbitrary  taxes  Imposed  on  tliis  trade,  fttid  the  shai-nefiil 
tnonopolies  he  authorised  in  it,  contributed  greatly  to  induce 
the  dov^Tifal  of  Charles.  After  the  Scottish  armies  took  New- 
castle, tlie  House  of  Commons  began  to  direct  the  coal  trade, 
and  govern  the  town ;  by  which  step,  they  were  enabled  to 
send,  for  the  use  of  the  poor  of  London,  large  supplies  of  coals, 
m*hich  had  **  risen  to  the  price  of  four  pound  per  chaldron."  • 
But  these  patriots  were  not  always  successful  in  their  schemes; 
for  in  1648,  even  under  the  sunshine  of  the  commonwealth, 
coals  were  so  oppressively  dear  in  London,  that  many  of  the 
poor  were  miserably  starved  to  death ;  a  circumRtance  which 
was  charged  on  the  governor  of  Newcastle  for  the  severe  im^  \ 
position  of  four  shillings  per  chaldron  upon  them,' 

"  Many  thousand  peopli^  are  employed  rn  this  trade  of  coales: 
many  live  by  working  ^^(^  thetn  in  the  pits:  many  live  by  con- 
veying them  in  waggons  and  waines  to  the  river  Tine;  manjT  , 
men  are  employed  in  conveying  the  coales  in  keels  from  the 
Ftathes  aboard  the  ships;  one  coal  merchant  employed  fivs 
hundred  or  a  thousand  in  hJs  work  of  coals;  yet  for  all  his  la- 
bour, care,  and  cost,  can  scarce  live  of  his  trade;  nay,  many  of 
them  hath  consumed  and  spent  great  estates,  and  dyed  beggars* 
,1  can  remember  one  of  many  that  raysed  his  estate  by  coale 
trade:  many,  I  remeniher,  that  hath  wasted  great  estates. 

**  Some  south  gentlemen  have,  upon  great  hope  of  benefit^ 
come  into  this  country  to  hazard  their  monies  in  coale-piis,-— 
Master  Beaumont,  a  prentleman  of  great  ingenuity,  and  rara 
parts,  adventured  into  our  mines  with  his  thirty  thousand 
pounds ;  who  brought  with  him  many  rare  engines,  not  known 
;hen  in  these  parts — as  the  art  to  bore  with  iron  rods,  to  try  the 
deepnesse  and  thicknesse  of  the  coaJe,  rare  engines  to  draw 
water  out  of  the  pits,  waggons  with  one  horse,  to  carry  down 
coales  from  the  pits,  to  the  stathes  to  the  river,  &c.  Within  few 
years  he  consumed  all  his  moneys  and  rode  home  upon  his  light 
horse-*' f 

The 
•  Boarne's  Newc.  154.  ♦  Gri^y's  CItoro.  p.  «4. 


KORTrnTMSERLA^m*  ^ 

^Tbe  coeJe  trade  began  not  past  four-score  years  since:  coales 
is  fonner  tinies  was  only  usetl  by  smiths^  and  for  burning  of 
p.iuoe :  woods  in  the  south  parts  of  England  decaying,  and  the 
kj  of  Loadotif  and  odier  great  cities  and  lotrnes  growing  po- 
pulous, made  the  trade  for  coale  increase  yearly,  and  many 
'  s  of  bnrthen  built,  so  that  tliere  was  raore  coales 
one  year,  than  was  in  seven,  focty  years  by  past:  tlm 
great  traie  hath  made  this  towne  to  Eourish  in  all  trades.** 

Duties  were  laid  upon  this  article  to  assist  in  building  Su 
J'aul's  churcii,  and  fifiy  parish  churches  in  London  alter  the 
Kt  tire  in  that  city,  and  ia  1677,  Charles  the  Second  granted 
to  his  DQtural  son,  Charles  Lenox,  Duke  of  Richmond,  and  hk 
h€in^  a  duty  of  one  shilling  a  chaldron  on  cods,*  which  con- 
tinued in  the  family  till  it  was  purchased  by  government  in 
IHOO,  ibr  the  annual  pa)ineQt  of  19,0CK)L  This  du^  .pro- 
duces upwards  of  25,0001-  a  year  at  presofit* 

In  I699t  Newcastle  had  two  thirds  of  the  coal  trade,  and 
300,000  chaldrons,  in  all,  went  annually  to  London.  The 
oversea  trade  employed  900,000  tons  of  shipping.  Coals  about 
Jhat  time  sold  in  London  for  eighteen  gliiUings  a  chaldron,  ou(t 
'which  five  shillings  were  paid  to  the  King,  one  shilling 
and  sixpence  to  St.  Paul's,  and  one  shiliiug  and  sixpence 
metilge*  It  was  then  also  stated  to  the  House  of  Commons 
thai  «ix  hundred  ships,  one  with  another,  of  the  burden  of 
ei^lij  Newcastle  chaldron,  with  4,500  men,  were  requisite 
for  carrying  on  this  trade.  There  were  also  then  employed 
on  the  Tyne,  four  hundred  keels,  and  betwet^n  iiileen  and 
16,000  keelmen.t 

The  increase  of  this  trade  has  hitherto  continued  progressive. 
In  eight  years,  from  January  the -first,  1802,  to  December  the 
thirtieth,  1809*  it  appears,  that  4,713,476  Newcastle  chaldrons, 
or  12,490,707  tons  of  coals,  were  exported  Irosi  the  Tyne, 

Sir  Robert  Mansell,  knight,  Vice  Admiral  of  England,  esta^ 
blkhed  gloit  ttiorks  on  the  Tyne,   in   1619,  in  which  year  we 

Ci  find 

*  Brsnil't  Kew«.  U.  If96,  nm  t  Ibii!,  SOS,  ZiH, 


^  NOIlTltt7M8£atA^'D. 

patched  with  heath,  and  are  spongy  and  barren  towards  their 
heads,  are,  upon  tlie  whole,  remarkably  fertile.  The  ridges 
and  furrows,  apparent  in  various  parts  of  Kidtaiid,  plainly  &how 
that  the  feet  and  sloping  sides  of  these  tinely-fomied  hills  have, 
at  one  time,  been  more  accustomed  to  cultivation  than  at  pre 
sent.  As  the  population  here  has  lessened  by  increasing 
size  of  the  farms,  and  the  farmers  j^ettling  lower  down  in  I 
country,  the  plough*&hare  has  been  disused  and  grazing  pre* 
vaiied.  llils  district  is  wholly  occupied  by  shepherds*  Froiii 
Whittingham  to  tlie  Tweed,  the  soil  is  of  a  sharp  gravelly  na- 
ture, and  in  a  high  state  of  cultivation.  The  undulating  hills 
about  IJderton,  and  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Branxton,  Wark, 
and  Carham,  exhibit,  in  harvest,  one  of  the  finest  cultivated 
prospects  in  Britain.  From  Doddington  to  Berwickt  nearly 
along  the  line  of  the  Devil* s  Causeway,  the  country  is  traversed 
with  a  chain  of  low  moory  hilJs.  The  plains  about  Rellord  are 
extremely  rich  and  beautiful ;  and  from  the  whin  rocks  of  Bam- 
borough,  along  the  sea  coast  as  Jar  as  the  \Vans-beck|  tlie  soil 
is  of  a  strong  grateful  quality.  Between  Shillbottle  and  tlie 
sea  it  is  uncommonly  productive*  All  that  tract  which  lies  be- 
tween the  Wans-beck  and  the  Tyne,  and  stretches  in  a  westerly 
direction  from  the  sea  through  the  manor  of  OgIe#  towards 
Kirkheaton,  lies  upon  sub-strata,  retentive  of  moisture,  and  is  of 
a  cold  clayey  quality.  The  valley  of  Hexham,  including  South 
Tyne  as  far  as  Haltwhistle,  and  the  North  Tyne  as  far  as  Belling- 
ham,  is  a  tine  ^harp  loam,  which  rises  up  the  sloping  sides  of  the 
hills,  till  il  meets  with  thin  soils  covered  with  poor  grasses,  and 
in  many  places  with  heatlu  The  harvests  in  this  valley  are  the 
earliest,  its  tree^  have  the  richest  foliage,  and  its  landscape  is 
the  moi^t  di%'ersilit:d  and  interesting  of  any  in  Northumberland. 

Cold  and  pining  easterly  winds  prevail  here  during  the  montlis 
of  March,  April,  and  frequently  the  greater  part  of  May.  \\Tien 
the  western  breezes  set  in,  the  progress  of  vegetation  is  rapid. 
It  is  not  uncommon  to  see  the  trees  in  the  beginning  of  May  aa 
arid  and  leafless  as  in  December  ;  and,  through  the  influence  of 

mild 


K0RTHI7HB£RL  AND, 


£7 


ttuld  wmiterly  winds,  and  kind  rains,  in  the  course  of  eight  or  ten 
4&a3FV  not  a  branch  to  be  seen.  When  these  westerly  breezes  in* 
cjcie  into  hurricanes  it  is  a  sure  indication  of  a  deluge  of 
ram  being  faliiag  at  the  time  in  the  western  counties  of  Eng- 
land and  Scotland.  The  autumn  of  the  year  is  the  summer  of 
Northianberland.  The  months  of  Septeniber  and  October  are 
usually  fine  settled  weather.  From  the  middle  of  November  to 
the  latter  end  of  March  the  winter  tpanlses  aevere)y.  The 
largest  fails  of  snow  are  brought  by  winds  ihat  sweep  over  the 
loogeit  tracts  of  land.  Wherever  the  countrj'  is  dry  and  well 
cultivated^  the  air  is  most  salubrious. 

.  In  M>  great  diversity  of  soil  and  climate^  a  corresponding  di* 
vertiiy  of  produce  and  management  is  to  be  expected.  The 
twoil  ratation  of  crops ^  on  dry  soils,  is,  turnips,  barley,  or 
whmlf  clover  for  one  or  tut  o  years,  oats^  or  where  barley  haa 
been  grown  after  turnips,  wheat  is  sometimes  sown.  Upon 
^  strong  loams,  fiiUow  wheats  clover,  for  one  or  two  years,  beans 
I  or  oatap  Upon  moist  thin  loams  or  ochrey  clays,  fallow,  wheat, 
clorer^   and  grass  seeds  for  two  years ;  and,  upon  moory  soils, 

I&llow,  oats,  clover,  and  gratis  seeds  two  years,  oats.  ♦  Near 
Woolrr  it  has  been  found,  that,  on  ground  properly  prepared  for 
compEiritive  experiment,  the  difference  in  favour  of  drill  ridges, 
at  lODe  inches  asunder,  over  the  broad  cast  way,  is  in  the  pro* 
portioD  af  tliirty-six  bushels  of  wheat,  each  weiglung  iifty* 
nine  poond,  to  thirty*four  bushels,  each  fifty-eight  pound  ;  and, 
by  another  experiment,  as  forty-two  bushels  and  a  half,  each 
lijtty  pound,  is  to  forty  bushels,  each  filly-nine  pound,  f  At 
the  same  place  in  was  also  discovered,  from  two  experiments^ 
that  the  weight  of  drilled  turnips,  were  to  Uiose  of  the  broad- 
oat  husbandry,  in  the  rates  of  four  to  three,  ^  Some  of  the 
moit  intelligent  farmers  in  the  same  neighbourhood  find,  that 
a  course  of  three  year^  tillage  and  three  years  grass,  is  a  much 
iQortt  profitable  system  than  one  year  clover,  or  any  other  sys- 


ttax  they  have  tried. 


Independent 


*  B»iIr/«  Darham* 


t lb.  p*  jir. 


t  lb.  p.  161. 


18  KOKTHCnc&B|tLAV9« 

Independenc  of  the  produce  of  the  Mi'j$Jtd,  the  wumiires^ 
chiefly  in  use,  ere  lime,  maxia^  and  Mtpweed.  Lime  ia  pl«iu^ 
fol  in  ahnost  ell  parts  of  the  oounty,  except  in  ih^  porphyrj 
district  of  the  Chenot  HiUs,  and  the  coal-field  in  Castle  Ward« 
Stone  marie  '  abounds  in  many  places  near  the  Tweed  side.'  * 
Large  siq>plies  of  excellent  sheH'mmie  are  drawn  from  boggs  in 
the  parishes  of  Branxton  and  Carham,  and  have  been  employed 
on  the  grass  lands  about  Wark  and  Learmouth  with  great  effect* 
Clayey  marles,  that  effervesce  in  nitrous  acid,  are  found  at  Ilder* 
ton^  ChilUngham^  and  Westweod,  near  Hexham,  f  The  marina 
xmedSf  collected  firom  rocks»  or  washed  ashore  by  heavy  sees,  are 
much  esteemed  along  the  coast ;  and  a  considerable  supply  of 
manure  is  also  annually  brought  as  ballast  from  London  in  the 
ships  employed  in  the  coal  trade. 

The  TYHBs  of  this  county  have,  perhaps,  no  peculiar  feature. 
Out  of  the  seventy-three  parishes  contained  within  its  boundaries^ 
only  thirteen  are  rectories ;  the  tjrthes  of  hay  and  com  are  con- 
sequently in  the  hands  of  opulent  laymen,  a  cause  which,  more 
than  any  other,  operates  against  their  bdng  exchanged  for  a 
fair  equivalent. 

As  an  increase  botli  of  knowledge  and  capital  has  of  late 
years  been  employed  in  agriculture,  the  rental  of  the  county  has 
rapidly  advanced.  In  1809  it  amounted  to  916,8571.  188.  ll^d. 
The  annual  value  of  estates,  rise  from  the  smallest  sums  to  up« 
wards  of  30,0001. — one  estate  is  said  to  be  more  than  80,0001. 
a  year.  In  some  of  the  mountainous  districts,  especially  towards 
the  sources  of  the  Tyne,  there  are  several  small  estates,  from 
thirty  to  three  hundred  a  jrear,  farmed  by  their  proprietors.  As 
most  of  these  have  been  handed  down  from  father  to  son,  through 
successions  of  several  generations,  strong  attachments  to  ancient 
methods  of  husbandry  have  descended  with  them,  and  new  im* 
provements  have  been  slowly  countenanced.  The  farms,  in 
general,  are  largest  in  Glendale  and  Bamborough  Wards.  **  In 
the  other  parts  of  the  county  they  are  from  My  to  three  hun- 
dred 
•  Geo.  View,  to.  t  Wallis,  I.  d3.  ^5. 


iroRTKVMBERt.ANIK 


29 


I 


I 


P 


^ed  1  y^ ;  some  tenants,  in  tlie  northern  parts  of  the  caunty, 
fkroQ  htm  20001.  to  40001.  a  year  and  upwards.  In  180l», 
dry  fertile  loams  let  for  fitfy  to  fiily-five  shilUngs  per  acre  ;  and 
UMtd  rich  old  grazing  pastures  for  sixty  to  seventy  shillings  per 
mcrCf  Cjthe  free."  ^     A  large  farm  in  the  parish  of  Carham  ii 

let  for  twenty-one  yeare,  at  upwards  of  sixty  shillings  per 
The  whole  of  the  rents  are  paid  in  money,  and  four  or 
fire  liionths  credit  usually  given  to  the  farmers. 

Gf«at  attention  has  been  paid  to  rearing  stock.  The  short* 
homed  cattle,  usually  called  the  Duich  breeds  on  account  of 
their  rapid  growth,  become  favourites  among  the  graziers* 
•*  They  are  now  sold  fat  to  the  butchers  at  three  years  and  a  half 
#)d,  and  a  carcase  in  general  weiglis  from  sixty  to  eighty  stone*" 
The  CArmH  aheep  are  a  very  bcautilu]  breed,  which  weigh,  when 
fkt,  froRi  twehe  to  eighteen  pounds  a  quarter.  The  Heath  iheep^ 
m  <a1M  from  their  being  peculiarly  adapted  to  bleak  and  heathy 
fUMoitatiKf  afford  a  fine  flavoured  mutton,  and  weigh  from  twelve 
t©  aolseii  pounds  a  quarter.  Tlie  long  tmokd  shetp^  a  breed 
frmly  improved  by  the  enterprizing  spirit  of  Mr.  Cully,  are  re- 
ntrfcable  for  fatting  at  an  early  age.  They  are  frequently  called 
the  Dwhiy  breed,  and  were  first  iutroduced  into  this  country  in  the 
yiar  1766*  f  They  weigh  finom  eighteen  to  twenty-ttx  pound  per 
^mrteTt  and  their  fleeces  average  seven  pound  and  a  half  a  piece, 
the  year  17^8,  upi**ai'ds  of  134,000  acres  of  waste 

hare  bee*i  divided  and  inclosed :  and  though  thero  are  alii! 
fwy  large  tracts  of  open  ground  in  the  sheep-walks,  very  Httle 
of  It  is  common.  Most  o4'  the  moors  are  private  property,  di- 
tided  by  casts  of  heath,  ridges  of  htlis,  or  by  streams.  These 
boimdafies  of  property  are  called  marckeih  The  tenure  is  mostly 
ftiriiold.    •*  Tl^ere  are  some  small  parcels  of  copyhold  ;  and  in 

districts  which  belong  to  the  county  of  Durham,  smne 
for  lives,  or  years,  held  under  the  church.     There  arc 
aNo  two  or  three  manors  of  eustomary  tenure  towards  the  hmi 
South  Tyne^"  % 


M  KORTMUMBEELAND. 

The  peasantry  here,  have  been  supposed  to  be  stitl  uftdeV 
a  species  of  vasaalage,  *  The  farmers  retain  few  servants  in 
their  bouses :  their  labourers  are  called  hinds,  and,  like  their 
shepherds,  are  mostly  married  men  and  live  in  cottages  upon  the 
farms.  In  addition  to  their  annual  wages,  they  have  certain 
quantities  of  provisions  and  fuel  allowed,  them  at  stipulated 
prices.  They  have  also  the  privilege  of  keeping  two  cows,  or  re- 
oeiving  three  pounds  a  year  in  lieu  of  each.  Their  condition  it 
much  better  than  that  of  small  farmers,  who,  in  addition  to  ex- 
treme hard  labour,  have  their  sleep  disturbed  by  rent-day 
dreams. 

Canals.— Application  was  made  to  parliament  in  1709,  and 
leave  obtained  to  bring  in  a  bill  to  make  the  river  Tyne  naviga- 
ble from  Newburne  to  Hexham ;  but  the  corporation  of  New- 
castle opposed  the  measure,  as  likely  to  be  rumoiis  to  their 
port,  f  Similar  projects  were  revived  in  1795*  but  they  ended 
with  no  better  success.  Though  tlie  ultimate  object  of  the  spe- 
cuialors  on  this  occasion,  was  to  connect  the  eastern  and  wes- 
tern seas,  by  means  of  a  navigable  canal,  their  first  attention 
'uras  only  directed  up  the  Tyne  as  far  as  Haydon  bridge.  Five 
engineers  were  employed — Messrs.  Chapman,  Jessop^  Doddy 
Sutcliffe,  and  Wliitworth* 

Mr.  Chapman  proposed  to  carry  a  canal  on  the  north -side  of 
the  Tyne,  from  the  upper  part  of  Newcastle  to  Haydon  bridge, 
a  distance  of  thirty -one  miles  and  three  qmirters,  on  one  level, 
and  to  connect  it  with  the  Tyne  at  its  east  end,  by  means  of  a 
staircase  of  locks.  The  rise  here  from  high-water,  at  neap  tides, 
to  the  level  of  the  canal,  would  have  been  about  two  hundred 
feet.  It  was  thought  that  the  final  out-let  of  it  would  be  best  in 
th^  neighbourhood  of  StockbridgCi  in  Fandon^  These  locks, 
and  **  the  projecting  steep  land,"  near  the  churcli  oi*  St,  John- 
lee,  were  the  main  difficulties  he  had  to  contend  with,  Mr. 
Jc«Bop  and  himself  decidedly  preferred  tliis  hne,  and  calculated 

tbe 
•  Man1tair»  Rc^vicw,  p,  51* 

t  Jovr.  of  tlie  Uoutc  of  Cvtii.  VoU  XVL  Brtxid  Vol.  I.  p.  30, 


the  eafpence  of  executing  it  at  129,494*.  The  total  expence 
of  extendiDg  it  to  Maryport,  in  Cumberltind,  they  thought 
would  not  exceed  355»0671« ;  and  would  bring  in  an  average 
rent  of  30,0001  a  year.* 

Mr.  D odd's  plan  was  to  carry  a  canal  on  the  south-side  of  the 
Tyne,  from  Stella  to  Hexham ;  and  to  form  totcing  paths  of 
ballast  from  Stella  to  Newcastle,  by  the  river  side.  From 
SteUa  •*  I  propose,"  says  he,  "  a  rise  of  eight  feet  eight  inches 
•S  each  lock,  twelve  of  which  will  carry  us  through  the  whole 
line  to  Hexham."  The  expence  of  making  this  line  he  calcu- 
lated at  35,71  Si.  10s.  2d.  and  its  annual  profit  at  9,9251. 15s.  2d.t 
In  Mesars.  Chapman  and  Jessop's  survey  of  tliis  line,  the  es- 
penoe  of  forming  a  canal  on  it  is  estimated  at  69,081). 

Mr«  Sutcliffe  agreed  with  Mr.  Dodd  in  commencing  the  canal 
at  Stella,  but  diifered  widely  from  him  respecting  the  course  it 
iUould  take,  and  the  expence  of  finishing  it.  His  cidculation 
of  its  cost  from  Stella  to  Hexhum,  is  89,7951.  7». ;  and  for 
making  it  complete  between  Newcastle  and  Hay  don  Bridge, 
1^2,0591  1 4s,  6d4 

Mr.  Whitworth  was  requt  sted  by  the  promoters  of  the  aflair 
to  survey  both  lines^  and  candidly  to  report  to  which  he  gave 
the  preference.  His  words  are,  **  the  line  upon  tlie  south-side 
has  certainly  very  much  the  advantage.  But  I  think  that 
oeiUier  Mr,  Chapman's  nor  Mr.  Dodd's  is  eligible  ;  indeed^  1 
think  they  are  scarcely  practicable.  Mr.  SutcliiFe  has  set  down 
plenty  of  money  to  do  it  welL"$  SutclifFe  estimated  the  ex- 
pence  of  a  canal  on  the  north  side  at  183,4501,  15s.  6d,  '*  But 
he  is  rather  extravagant  in  his  ideas,  and  may  be  a  little  par- 
lid  to  the  line  on  the  soutli  of  the  Tync,  as  IMr.  Chapman  may 
be  to  that  on  the  nortli  of  the  rivcr."l| 

Mr.  Thompson,  of  Sheepwaali,  published  **  Observations  on 

the 

Chsp.  Btid  Jef top's  Report*.         t  Dodd^  R'^ports^  \^p.  ^8,  Si ,  4S,  <i4. 
I  SutcK  Fh^t  Rep.  p,  45.     Secoii«l  Rep.  p.  35* 
f  WLit.  N.  Rep.  pp.  *,  9,  B  M'Wt,  S.  Rej»*  p.  H. 


99  JVCKTHCTMBEIILAfrtl. 

tittifioit  Advantageous  Line,"  wliJch  he  contended  would  be  oli^ 
tained  by  proceeding  from  Barras  bridge  to  the  third  mUe^toney 
on  Newcastle  town-moor,  and  there  to  branch  eastward  to  North 
Shields,  and  northward  to  Prestwlck.  From  Prestwick  he  re- 
commended the  h'ne  to  proceed  by  Ponteiand,  Stamfordham, 
Hyal|  Bingfield,  Chollerton,  over  North  T}T»e  to  Humshaugh, 
till  it  join  the  branch  recommended  by  Mr,  Chapman  near  War- 
den, He  alM>  proposed  to  make  a  canaJ  from  Prestwick,  down 
the  Blythe  to  the  sea ;  and  from  Hartford  bridge  to  Morpeth, 
and  from  thence  by  the  Till  to  the  Tweed** 

Mr.  Chapman^s  nortJi  side  plan  fimilly  met  with  the  largest 
patronage,  and  a  bill  was  brought  forward  in  parliament,  for 
authority  to  put  it  into  execution :  but  as  there  had  been  ao 
much  di^erence  of  opinion  about  the  matter  amongst  tlie  engi- 
neersy  and  petitions  gainst  it  were  presented  by  four  gentle- 
men, neai'  whose  family  seats  it  would  Iiave  passed,  by  fiixtti 
other  proprietx)rs  of  land,  and  by  the  mint*^ter,  and  eighty- 
inhabitants  of  the  parish  of  St/  Johnlee,  the  bill  was  withdrawn^ 
AAer  a  repose  of  fifteen  years  Mr.  Dodd*s  plan  waa  revived 
in  IBIO.  Preparations  have  been  again  made  for  approaching 
parliament  with  a  bill,  for  authority  to  make  a  canal  from  Stella 
to  Hexham ;  but  we  fear  tlie  commerce  of  the  country  is  still 
too  confined  to  allow  that  ample  and  vigorous  patronage,  which 
go  large  an  undertaking  demands.  Mr.  Dodd's  present  propo- 
sition is  to  raise  a  capital,  by  shares  of  one  hundred  pounds  each, 
of  106,CKK)L  The  greatest  possible  cost  ho  e!$timate«  Hi 
J05,8(X)h;  and  the  annual  produce  of  the  canal,  he  supposes, 
i  -frannotlye  less  than  22,^71.  9b*  lOd. 


itle- 


Rivers*— St.  Bede  is  the  first  author  that  mentions  itie  rircr 
TYNE.f  The  origin  and  meaning  of  it^  name  have  been  tnuch 
disputed.  La  Tyne,  riviere  formee  de  deux  rivitres — Ty^ 
deux  ;  2y;t,  doble*     On  a  etendu  par  abas  le  nom  Tine  4  cha- 

cune 
*  TUonip.  OlMer*  [kp*  1^i  i^i  ^<^'  *  ^*  Hitt.  Smith>  Fil.  [i.  IB  n 


KORTfrUMBERLAND.  SS 

Cisne  im  riViere*  qui  la  formenL^    **  Tlte  iwo  Tynes  ore  rivefs 

of  tht  OttudtDi.'*!     HarrboKi  tliioks  it  was  in  old  time  called  the 

^  AJi»),  bat  does  not  mention  his  authority 4 

H      Tl»e  South  Tyne  f\s^3  behind  Cross-Fdl,  and  in  its  course 

HrecciTOft  th«  Nenl,  the  Tippal»  and  the  Allen*    The  North  Tyne 

^ooniaieftoet  on  llie  borders  of  Scotland,  and  receives  the  Reetl 

bdov  BeUiiighain*     The  two  branches  join  near  Nether  \V  ar- 

deo,  and  are  aAerwardg  augmentefl  by  the  Dill  or  Devib-beclCy 

aear  Corbridge,  by  the  Derwent  (which  rises  alwve  the  Abbey 

of  B&inchland)    near  Lemmington,   and    by   several  smaller 

aCfemu^    In  the  time  of  William  Rufus  it  was  proved  that  this 

m«lMd,ab  omnl  tempore,  been  the  march  between  the  county 

of  Northtsmberland  and  the  btsbopnc  of  Durham ;  and  that  a 

■loie^  of  it  belonged  to  each  t;ounty»  while  the  middle  of  it  waa 

0MU&0D  to  all  ships  and  boata.     Ita  fisheries  are  mentioned 

«nA6r  t! '  '  *'       ,  the  First,  and  were  long  celebrated 

Ibriliei  salmon  ;  so  late  as  the  year  1761,  not 

less  tlttn  two  hundred  and  sixty  were  caught  at  one  draught 

at  Newbume;  and  in  I7t5,  two  hundretl  and  seventy-five  were 

^   landed  at  one  draught  at  the  Low  Lights,  near  the  mouth  of  the 

H  liter*    The  iiAheries  are  now  nearly  destrcyetl,  a  circumstance 

•^  to  be  attributed  entirely  to  the  locks  at  B>t*  ell,  which  prevent 

Aa  aatuMMi  passing  up  to  the  shallow  streams  in  the  breeding 

The  Canvcnatarsliip  of  the  Ti/ne  appears  to  liave  been  invested 
b  the  corporation  of  Ni  n-ai^tlei  since  the  time  of  Edward  the 
Sec«iid«  though  repeated  commi*.M"ons  have  since  been  granted 
ta  itrcngthen  that  power.  Their  jurisdiction  extends  tothigh- 
water  mark  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  from  *he  sea  to  Hcdwin 
Krcami,  above  Newbume,  which  distance  is  annually  surveyed, 
«i  Ascmsion  Dayi  by  the  mayor  and  river  jury,  in  their  barges. 
The  apriag  tides  rbe  about  eighteen  feet  at  the  mouth  of  the 
trrcr,  ami  about  eleven  feet  and  a  half  at  Newcastle* 
\oL.  XIL  D  Camden 

*  BttllerH  Met».  sor  la  Lang  Celt.  Vot  L  p.SI6, 
t  0csc.of  EnfTaDd^  Fn-f.  to  Hull*  CUroa*  p.  t5f,        t  Hie.  Cor.  ^ 


S4  KORTHUMBEHLAND. 

Cumden  thought  that  the  Tweed  waa  the  Taum  estuarium  of 
Tacitus;*  arid  Mr.  Horslcy  says,  **  between  the  Humber  and 
tlie  Firth  of  Forth,  no  rivers  arc  nicntioiitd  by  Ptolomy  but  \c» 
dra  and  AlaunuB.  The  latter  of  ^rhich  I  take  to  be  the  Tweed, 
into  which  river  Allon,  in  Scotlajxd,  does  run ;  and  the  other  is 
most  probably  the  T}iic,  whose  skuation  answers  exactly*' ^f 
The  names  of  British  rivers  have  great  affinity,  and  are  com- 
monly descriptive  of  the  colour  or  properties  of  tlieir  waters 
Derwent,  Allen,  &c*  from  tlje  frequency  of  their  occurrencet 
were  certainly  Fignificant  epithets.  It  is  abj?urd  to  suppose  that 
either  of  these  rivers  lost  iu  nmne  while  the  British  language 
was  spoken  by  the  people  that  inlublttd  their  extensive  baaks ; 
and  more  absurd  to  suppose  tliat  the  Saxons  shoiiJd  change  their 
names  from  one  British  term  to  another.  This  river  rises  la 
Tweedale^  h\  Scotland,  at  a  place  called  Tweed's  Cross, J  **  out 
of  a  faire  well  standing  in  the  inDs>e  of  an  hill  calJed  Airstane, 
or  Halrstane."^  It  receives  the  Ettrick,  Leader,  and  Tiviot, 
in  its  progress  through  Scotland,  "  At  a  litle  broke,  cawlyd 
Ryden  Burne,  the  whiche  parlithe  England  and  Scotland  by 
este  and  west,  and  comithc  in  to  Twede,  the  great  streame  of 
Th  ede  towchitho  on  the  Englyshe  grownde  as  a  limes  betwenc 
Scotland  and  it.**  The  Till  i^  the  last  stream  of  importance 
diat  enters  it.  It  is  an  ciituary  at  Korhom,  about  seven  tnile* 
troTU  tlie  sea*  Its  banks  are  exceedingly  fertile,  and  it  may  witU 
great  truth  be  ftyled — "  fair  river,  broad  and  deep," 

The  yearly  rental  of  tlie  sahnon  fisheries  o»  the  Tweed  is 
15,7661.  The  average  number  of  boxes  of  raw  salmon  sent  ta 
Loudon,  packed  in  ice,  in  the  years  1806  and  I807»  was 
8,415,  of  eight  stone  each,  which,  at  sixteen  pounds  per  stone, 
is  ^^i-jWlO  pounds.  If  tliere  be  added  the  value  of  what  is  kitted 
for  exportation,  and  what  is  sold  fresh  or  dried  in  the  neighbour- 
hood, the  amount  cannot  be  less  than  60,000  pounds  a  year^U 

If 
*  RriL  Ed.  1590,  p.  Ci6.  f  Brit.  Rom. 

I  FuUer'a  Hist,  of  Berw.  p.  41 9.        $  LeL  quoted  by  Harrison,  p.  1 5<l» 
I  BaiJcy*!  Sar.  of  Parh.  p,  47. 


KORTHU^fBlRLAKlX* 


35 


rerc  erected  here,  as  on  the  T)Tie  and  other  rivers^  the 

supply  would  gradually  cease. 

*  The  Till  risL'th  not  farre  from  the  liead  of  Uswaie,  in  the 
Cheriot  Hilles,  where  it  is  called  Brennkh^  w^hereof  the  king- 
dom of  Bemicia  did  some  time  take  the  naroe**^  It  keeps  tlie 
oame  of  Breniish  till  it  has  passed  by  Wooler.  The  Bovenf^ 
celebrated  for  its  beautiful  pebble$,f  joins  the  Glen  near  Kirk- 
newtoii;  and,  after  passing  through  Glendale^  by  Copeland 
Castle,  their  united  streams  join  the  TilL  This  river,  to  the  heada 
of  Its  smallest  bronehes,  but  especially  between  the  Glen  and 
the  Tweed,  swarms  with  trout. 

Harrison  sap,  "  the  Alnb  if  a  pretie  riueret,  the  head 
whereof  riseth  in  the  hills  west  of  Alnham  towne^  and  k  called  by 
Ptoloraie  Celnius.  Between  Ailmoutli  and  Wooden  it  swcepeth 
into  the  ooean-*^  Richard  of  Cirencester  mentions  Alauna  as 
mie  of  the  Ottadlne  rtvers  ;  and  Ahiham,  Hulne,  Alnwick,  Aln- 
lOMtdt^  places  on  its  banks,  derive  their  names  from  it. 

Tlie  CuatJET  rises  amongst  the  Cheviot  Hills.  "  For  acertea 
*pace  of  miles  it  dividith  Cuquedale  and  Ridesdale."  J  Near  Al- 
laiton  church  it  is  joined  by  the  Allen,  which  issues  out  of  Kid- 
land.  **  The  Hoc,  as  I  think  it  is  called,  coraeth  from  the 
woodland  and  hilly  soil,  by  Allington^  and  falleth  into  the  same, 
west  of  Parkcnd/*  j»  This  river  enters  tlie  sea  near  Warkworth, 
where  there  i&  a  fishery  for  salmon-trout  and  gilse.  By  a  re- 
cent alteration  of  its  channel,  it  seems  to  be  preparing  itself  for 
being  a  harbour  for  ships  of  light  tonnage.  Its  banks,  espe* 
dally  from  Rothbury  to  the  sea,  are  well  wooded,  and  afford 
«  great  variety  of  interesting  landscape.  It  is  much  irequented 
by  anglers ;  and  its  sand-beds  have  been  celebrated  for  their 
bcautiiy  pebble-crjstals,  pale  carnelians,  chrysolithes,  and 
agates.  Bremenium,  Cocudena,  or  Coqueda,  and  Alauna,  occur 
together  in  Ravenna's  Ch orography. 

The  Wans,  "a  praty  ryvcr,**  vulgarly  called  Wants-becl^, 
D2 
•  Mif.  D«*c.  of  En^.  p.  152* 
I  td,  lOo,  VaL  VII,  pt  i,  fol  7.1. 


rijkefl 


f  Wallis,  1. 9a 


iHar,  Disc.  ofEof.  p.  ISU 


'96  MORTHUMBEALAKO. 

rides  near  Sweethope,  above  Kirkwhelpmgton.  At  Mitfordtt 
meets  the  Font,  and  passing  through  the  fine  meadows  o€  the 
valley  of  Newniinster  and  the  old  woods  of  Bothal,  it  enters  the 
«ed  at  Cambob.  The  tide  flows  up  it  to  the  bridge  of  Sheep- 
W8sh.  Dr.  Akenside  wrote  the  first  copy  of  his  Pleasures  of 
Imagination  at  ^lorpcth,  and  in  the  edition  of  that  poeiii»  im 
1770,  complrments  this  river  with  this  apostrophe;— 

"  Of  yc  NorthiiiuUriiiti  sltadei,  which  overlook 
«         The  rocky  pitvcment  and  ilie  mouy  fillip 
Ofsolifary  WmiS'bcck,  limpid  ^ttream  ; 
Hdw  gladly  1  iical)  your  MfUkuov^n  ^cats* 
Belovcci  ofetd,  aud  iLdt  dpLic^hirol  time 
M'heii  dt  alone,  Ibr  many  a  »uiiimci*s  clrtVt 
I  waiidiM-ed  tlirough  your  calm  ^^ces^t«,  led 
In  silence^  by  i^oinc  jiowtiful  baud  ujisccil* 


NEWCASTLE  UPON  TYNE. 

The  proofs  that  Newcastle  was  aBoman  station  are  conclusive. 
Coins  of  Trajan,  Hadrian,  Faustina,  Lucius  Verus,  and  Antoninuj 
Pius,  were  found  in  the  piers  of  the  bridge  here>  after  it  wag 
thrown  down  by  the  great  flood,  in  177  L*  In  digging  the 
foundations  of  the  new  county  court -house,  in  1810,  a  well  of 
Koman  maaonary  wag  discovered  oa  tlie  edge  of  the  hank.  It 
is  near  the  centre  of  tl\G  court-house.  To  raise  it  to  the  desired 
level,  a  very  strong  walJ,  in  the  form  of  a  trapezium,  and  en- 
cloalng  about  ten  square  yards,  had  been  constructed  on  frame- 
work, of  beams  of  oak,  fixed  perpendicularly  and  horizontally 
into  the  river  bank,  and  filled  up,  within  and  without,  wi^ 
clean  blue  clay.  The  beaius  of  oak  were  remarkably  fresh,  and 
near  the  bottom  of  two  of  them,  th«t  were  placed  perpendicu- 
larly»  stags  horns,  of  great  size  and  thickness,  were  found*  Be* 
tw^^en  the  factitious  and  original  bank  was  a  thick  layer  of 
ferns,  grasses,  brambles,  and   twigs  of  birch  and  oak,  iirmlj 

matted 
*  Fconatirt  NorC  Tour.  III.  SiX     Brtnd*  I.  58. 


yORTBUMSKRLAND.  jl^ 

wiitted  together.  Near  die  north-east  comer  of  the  court* 
iMMue  were  found  two  Rom  ad  altars,  one  bearing  an  iUegiblit 
iwcriptJon,  the  otlier  plain.  There  were  also  large  qiuntitica 
«f  Roman  pottery,  two  copper  coins  of  Antoninus  Pius,  and  a 
put  of  the  shnil  of  a  Corinthian  pillar,  richly  fluted  and  of  ex- 
quisite workmanship.  Near  the  altars  too  were  found  a  small 
uep  a  concave  stone »  bearing  marks  of  fire^  splits  and  with 
thin  fiakes  of  lead  in  the  iissures ;  also  fragments  of  miM-stones, 
and  foundations  of  walls,  firm  and  impenetrable  as  the  harden 
rock.  With  one  of  these  walls  the  eastern  v^-all  of  the  late  Moot 
Ihll  has  the  same  breadth,  Tx;anng,  and  manner  of  building  ; 
It  htti  also  in  it  a  low  semicircular  do4^r-way»  walled  up,  and 
tli«  outside  of  it  is  faced  with  te^slUted  asldar-work|  bearing 
r  mark  of  Roman  masonry* 
I  end  of  Hadrian's  Vallum  was  here,  and  the  bridge  and 
^phce  called  after  him,  Pom  j^Uiy  or  the  i^lian  Bridge.  He 
bdooged  to  the  /EUan  family,  and  thence  was  named  ililiua 
Hftdfianus.  He  rebuilt  Jerusidem,  and  styled  it  /HUa  Capito- 
liaa;  and  called  tlie  games  he  instituted  at  Pincum,  in  Mi^sia^ 
Sim,  Pincensia.  On  Sohvay  Firth »  at  tlic  other  cxtremhy  nf 
UiTallunit  were  stationed  the  first  cohort  of /Elian  mnrines;  at 
Banlofwald  the  first  i^ian  cohort  of  Daciana ;  and  at  Halton 
Chcsters  the  Sabinian  wing,  named  so  from  Sabinia,  Hadrian's 
wife.  Two  coins  were  aliio  struck  in  his  reign,  to  commemorate 
the  building  of  two  bridges  ;  one  of  which  had  seven ^  the  other 
Ite  arches.  The  Pons  .^Jius  at  Rome  has  exactly  five  arches, 
tad  for  that  with  seven  no  place  can  be  so  well  assigned  as  this** 

*  Tlie  Pict's  Wall,'  says  Grey,f  •  Ciime  over  Neathcr  Deane 
Mdge,  and  so  along  Into  Pandon.*  Mr.  Horsley  was  of  opinion, 
liMt  the  east  wall  of  the  Roman  station  here  ran  at  right  angles 
^fom  this  wall,  through  St«  George's  porcli  in  St*  Nicholas* 
church ;  that  each  side  of  the  station  mea^iured  six  chains,  and 
D  3  tliat 


^  Piraaesi'i  Collection;  and  V&illunr^  tom.  I,  p«  68^  ijuoted  by  liruiu! 
•  t  Oior*  p.  9. 


58  KOnTllUMBEKLAND. 

fhat  the  vallum  of  Hadrian  was  Its  southern  rampirc*  It  ha«, 
however,  been  found  that  the  Pict's  Wall  passed  near  tlie  great 
west  tloor  of  St.  Nicholas'  church  ;  and  the  recent  discoveries 
about  the  castle  prove  Uiat  the  station  extended  35  far  as  the 
brink  of  the  river,  and  that  tbe  east  wall  of  the  late  Moot  Hall 
is  beyond  all  doubt  the  eastern  wall  of  the  station. 

From  the  desertion  of  Britain  by  the  Romans,  to  the  time  of 
the  Norman  Conquest,  there  is  no  certain  mention  of  this  place 
under  any  other  name  than  Monkcheste^,  and  under  that 
only  once,  **  In  the  year  1074',  three  monks,  providentially 
sent  out  of  the  province  of  Mercia  into  that  of  Nortliumbcr- 
land,  came  to  York,  and  besought  Hugh,  the  son  of  Baldric, 
who  was  then  viscount,  to  *ive  them  a  guide  to  a  place  called 
Munkcccastre,  that  is,  the  City  of  the  Monks,  which  is  now 
called  Newcastle.  Being  conducted  to  this  place,  they  stayed 
at  it  for  a  time ;  but  when  they  could  fmd  there  no  vettiges  of 
the  ancient  church  of  Christ,  they  n  cnt  to  Jarrow,  then  retain- 
ing Httle  of  its  former  splendour,  and,  after  inspecting  its  nu- 
merous mouastic  edi6ces,  anil  half-ruined  churches,  they  began 
to  repair  it,  under  the  liberal  patronage  of  Walcher,  Bishop  of 
Durham.  The  name  of  the  oldest  was  Aldwin,  of  the  second 
Eaffwin,  and  of  the  tlu'rd  Kinfrid.  By  these  three  persons  tlie 
monasteries  of  Northumberland  were  restored."f 

**  The  town  of  Pampedon  is  very  antient^  I  find  of  the 
lungs  of  Northumberland  that  had  a  house  in  it,  which  we  now 
call  Pandon  Hall.'*J  This  place  was  undoubtedly  coeval  with 
Monkchester.  It  was  in  the  manor  of  Byker,  and  the  inherit- 
ance of  Ladararia,  wifb  of  Robert  dc  Byker,  who  conceded  it 
to  the  crown  prior  to  1^99 ;  in  which  year  Edward  the  First 
granted  it  to  tlie  town  of  Newcastle,  for  its  increase,  improve- 
ment, and  security.  About  this  time  Newcastle  began  to  be 
invested  with  waUs;  and  on  the  nortli  side  of  Pandon  the  Koman 
wall  appears  to  have  been  repaired  for  that  purpose  ;  for,  says 

Grey, 

«  3nt,  R9m*  p.  133.  Warbt  Vail,  Rom.  p,  30.       t  Sim,  Don.  p.  «0<5* 
^  Grey's  Chor, 


Gfe^,  a  tofreri  »iimlar  to  tliose  of  the  Roman  wall,  remaineUt 
•Weill  the  town^wall  in  Pampdon,  older  than  ihe  rest  of  the 
farerf,  and  after  auother  fashion,  standing  out  of  the  wall.  *  As 
old iis  Patidon  Gate,*  was  a  proverb  here,  in  Leland's  time.  A 
conmis  antique  signet  ring  was  found  near  Pandon  Hall  ;♦  and 
Romati  coins  were  lately  taken  out  of  an  old  wall  near  Stock* 
bndge,  m  tlits  place. 

In  the  aututnn  of  the  year  1080,  King  William  sent  his  son 
Robert  into  Scotland  against  Malcolm.  He  marched  as  for  as 
%gled)reth,  but  finding  no  opposition,  he  returned^  and  in 
ha  way  built  the  New  Castf€  upon  Tyne.f  Though  there  h 
lome  difference  among  the  hiKtorians  concerning  the  precise 
date  of  the  building  of  tliis  castle,  it  is  generally  allowed  that  it 
was  done  by  Curthose,  at  the  command  of  Ins  father,  and  tliat 
il  wafl  erected  upon  the  site  of  some  ancient  fort,  which  caused 
it  to  be  called  the  ^ew  Castle,  by  which  name  both  itself  and 
the  town  that  surrounds  it  have  ever  since  been  denominated. 
Rnitteen  years  had  scarcely  elapsed  after  its  building,  till  Ku- 
ftti  had  his  arms  to  employ  against  it ;  for,  in  tlie  memorable  re- 
Tok  of  Mowbray,  tlie  last  of  the  ancient  line  of  the  Earls  of 
Northumberland,  is  was  one  of  the  fortresses  seized  by  the  re- 
be!i.|  Many  of  the  roost  powerful  adlierents  of  the  earl  were 
taken  licre  ;§  and  himself,  with  thirty  soldiers,  who  had  escaped 
tma  Bamborough,  under  promise  of  assistance  from  the  garri- 
•oa  of  Newcastle,  were  betrayed  and  seized  by  the  king. 

The  great  tower  was  rq)aired  by  Henry  the  Second,  at  the 
txpente  of  12ol.  13s,  6d.  King  John  made  a  fpsse  round  its 
valli«  and  strengthened  it  with  certain  new  works  on  the  brink 
cf  the  rhrer^  and,  as  appeai*s  ft-om  his  charter,  indemnified 
\  whose  houses  stood  in  the  way  of  these  imprme- 
a  remittance  of  100  shillings  from  tljc  tscheat  rents 
lit!  httd  in  the  town.  The  crown  alsot  in  ISId^  expended 
514L  1  Ji*  lid,  in  building  a  new  gate;  and  two  years  after  laid 

Dl*  out 

•  Stttkc1y*s  It.  Bor.  p,  CI  t  Sim-  Dwo,  ill. 

I  ta  tiri.  Brand  T.  I4f .  i  Bourne,  p.  117* 


KORtHUMSEALAHD. 


0ut  thirty-six  paundfi  and  eight-] 


e  in  repairing  another  ] 
"  At  the  time  of  the  battle  of  Gannonkburn  the  cai^tle  and  all  tlie 
edifices  about  it  were  lu  good  repair  ;**  but  in  the  coune  of 
twenty-one  years  *^  the  great  tower,  and  all  the  leiser  tues  of 
the  said  castle,  the  great  hall»  wltl)  the  king's  clmniber  adjoin^* 
ing  it,  together  with  divers  other  chambers  below,  in  tha 
queen's  mantle  and  the  buttry-ccllar  and  pantry,  the  king^A 
chapel  within  tlie  castle^  a  certain  house  beyond  the  gate,  which 
u  called  the  Checker  House,  with  the  bridges  witliin  and  with- 
out the  gate,  with  thiee  gates  and  one  postern,  are  3001.  worse 
than  they  were.  They  say  alsju>,  that  there  are  In  tlie  custody 
of  Roger  Manduit,  latt-  high-^lieriff;  420  fother  of  l*ad.  They 
say  also,  tliat  it  was  thought  Iilghly  necessary  that  the  Baroi:^ 
Meron,  of  Haddeston,  the  Baron  of  Will  ton.  Lord  Robert  of 
CliObrd,  of  the  New  Place,  diief  lord  of  the  barony  of  Gaugie, 
the  lords  of  the  barony  of  and  Delviston^  that  the 

Lord  of  Werk  upon  Tweed,  the  lord  of  the  barony  of  Bolbeck, 
alias  Bywell,  the  Baron  of  Bothal,  and  lastly,  the  Baron  of 
Delaval,  should  build  each  of  them  a  house  witlitn  the  liberties 
of  the  castle,  for  the  defeuce  of  it.  The  house  of  the  Baron 
of  Werk  was  built  over  the  po*itern/*  • 

In  the  hall  of  tills  cagtlc  John  Baliol  did  homage  to  Edward 
the  First  for  the  cro>vn  of  Scu>land;f  and  David  Bruce  was  s 
prisoner  here  under  John  Copeknd.|  Though  it  was  In  the 
possession  of  the  incorporated  company  of  taylors  Irom  the 
year  1G05  to  IGl^,  yet  it  had  not  entirely  lost  its  ancient 
strength  under  their  auspices;  for  by  a  few  rep^uri:,  and  by 
plantbg  cannon  on  the  top  of  the  tower,  it  was  enabled,  under 
tJie  gallant  Sir  John  Marley,  tlien  mayor  of  Newcastle,  to 
hold  out  several  days  after  the  town  surrendered  to  tlie  Scots, 

in  16U.  § 

Twelve 
•  Bourne,  p.  iia.  t  Kjai^Mou,  p,  i*469. 

I    Rymer,  VoL  V*  p.  7ST. 
§  Tlie  ScotcJi  army  sunimuncil  Nevv castle  to  siiiTtnder  m  Fehinaiy^ 
16i4^    but  afler  three  weeks  frmUcfn  atay  it  ciusdcd  tlie  T^ne  uid 

maidiMi 


XOATUUItfBEItLAIfD.  41 

Twelve  of  the  ancient  barons  of  Nortbtimberland  paid  caxtle- 
g«iard  rents  and  comage  to  this  castle*  These  payments  origi* 
in  the  tenures  of  their  e^^tatea,  wliich  were  granted  to 
by  the  Conqueror  and  other  kings,  on  the  condition  of 
their  perfonzung  castle-guard  with  a  certain  number  of  men^ 
for  isome  ftp  ^    'me*     When  the«e  services  became  unneces- 

aarj  they  v^  uutcd  for  annual  rents;*  which,  togetlier 

with  the  tenure  by  knights'  senhce,  wece  abdialted    ia   tha 
time  of  Charles  die  Second. 

Alexander  Stevenson,  Esq.  a  page  of  the  king**  bed-chamber, 
in  1618,  obtained  a  lease  of  tifiy  ycfars,  at  fiHrty  shillinga  a  yeaf, 
**  of  all  that  old  casUe  of  the  t^ivm  of  NewcailU  upon  Tyne, 
\  «cyte  atid  herbage  of  the  aaid  caatle,  as  well  within  the 

waUi 

ai4rdied  to  Sundrrlnnd.  Dnrrnit  ^'^  attacki  Sandj^ate  and  fhe  otbet^ 
n^bnrbi  Wf  re  let  on  fire  by  the  be^tegfil.  The  rombttied  mmic*  of  the 
Eifl  of  Callendef  ami  General  Levm,  however,  comineiieefl  tlie  Megc  to 
9D*d  f»rucf»l  on  tbe  IbiirteentU  of  Au^ost^  ia  the  same  yeir*  Calleaidei% 
I  quiutert  were  at  Uhia  orth^  but  hh  cpeiatiooi  carried  oa  lo  Gatea^ 
d,  and  )m  attacks  iippo^rd  iVom  a  buttery  cooiitnicted  on  tlie  brow  of 
ttif'  Cdittte  Gaith,  and  atlcrvvatds  colled  the  Halfnioon  battery,  Ll'tui  had 
^Oaitxin  at  El^wicJi,  the  collicfs  of  which  place  and  of  Benwell^  with 
\  eomttry  people,  to  the  number  of  3(H)0,  were  employed  in  undei^ 
*  the  waiU»  The  rccl»tanc«  from  tlie  town  maa  tong  and  obttiaat*  ; 
Inu  ilk«r  tiie  mines  were  ready  fur  «fiiplodin;r«  awd  n*peate<i  suDimooi  to 
er  were  proudly  refn&ed^  oa  the  nuietrcnth  of  October  the  b«« 
eis  opeiied  all  their  batteries,  and,  with  a  tut  ious  and  general  as^nlt, 
to  the  breaches,  upon  which  the  gairi^n  in  the  cfbtle  played  ior 
iil!y  wftb  teatteTed  ^lJOt>  Ttiou^h  die  toss  of  the  Scotch  was  great 
fkff  rftaolotely  advanced,  and  qftrr  two  hmiri  of  lierce  contention  npoa 
Ae  braacbea,  iliey  forre<i  thetr  tir*t  entry  near  ihe  C'lote  Gate,  The  di*. 
ftta  couUniied  fur  some  tmi«  in  tlie^ticet*^  hut  the  aatajlantfi  ponriag  ia 
ao  an  ftidcj,  they  ftoon  l>ecanie  masters  of  the  walli  and  Lhje  town,  Tha 
MMyut  and  A  ft^w  of  hi«  a«40C)atrji  retreated  to  the  castle,  which,  with  an 
•tjtial  »|iarc  of  obstinacy  and  gallantry,  tbcy  defended  to  the  twenty -second 
of  Oct<»ba'4  when  they  capitulated,  and  inrTtLMlered  themselves  pnsonen 
•f  war.  BoonM,  p.  «3f.  Ruihw.  CdL  Pt.  tii.  Vol  11,  p.  546.  Thnr, 
State  l^ap.  VoL  1.  p.  ift  ^t^ 

•  Grose's  Aut  pref,  p.  3* 


41'  noktiicmberi-akb; 

wails  of  the  same  as  withoiiL**  This  lease  fell,  bj  purdtase^ 
into  the  Iiands  of  the  coqyoratlon.  ^\^^e^  iht-y  petitioned  the 
king  for  its  reneival  a  counter-petition  was  presented  by  the 
magUt rates  of  Northumberland,  under  the  plea  that  a  grant  of 
it  would  be  more  proper  to  be  given  to  that  county  than  to 
Newcastle,  Tn  the  midst  of  tlie  di5|7ute,  Lord  Gerrard  had 
access  to  the  king,  and,  on  August  thirds  1664,  obtained  a  leaso 
of  it  for  ninety-nine  years,  in  revention,  determfnable  on  three 
lives,  and  at  the  old  rent.  After  a  great  struggle,  and  at  the 
expence  of  six  hundred  pounds^  tlje  corporation,  in  1683^ 
by  the  king's  warrant,  succeeded  in  tlieir  object.  Lord  Ger- 
card,  then  Earl  of  Macclesfield,  however,  commenced  a  suit 
against  thera,  which  concluded  in  an  abrogation  of  this  warranty 
md  an  injunction  awarded  to  stay  the  proceedings  of  the  cor- 
porution  against  tlie  earl  and  his  tenants*  For  a  fine  of  ono 
hundred  and  fifty  pounds,  and  an  annual  payment  of  one  hun*  , 
drod  chaldron  of  coals  to  Chelsea  hospital,  a  fifty  years*  lease  i 
•f  these  premises  was  granted,  July  the  secondi  1736,  to 
George  Liddell,  Esq.;  and  in  1777,  they  were  demised  from  the 
crown  to  Henry,  Lord  Ravens\?ortJ^  for  the  term  of  forty  year* 
and  a  half,  from  July  thirteen*  1786,  on  the  same  terms  aa 
they  had  been  enjoyed  by  Colonel  LiddelL  They  were  sold  bj 
the  llavcnswortli  family,  in  1779,  to  J,  C.  Turner,  Esq. 

Henry  the  Fourth  made  Newcastle  a  county  of  itself;  and, 
though  \m  charter  on  this  occasion  makes  no  reservation  of  the 
emtio  to  the  county  of  North umhcrland,  it  appears  to  have 
been  considered,  in  1417,  in  a  i>imilar  situation  with  the  castles 
of  ClicstGr»  Cokht^ter,  Norwich,  Worcester,  and  tlie  Tower  of 
London,  independent  of  the  corporation  of  its  own  town*  By 
a  charter  of  the  thirty-first  of  Elizabeth,  on  account  of  tins 
••  old  and  ruined  castle  being**  a  refuge  for  wicked  and  disor* 
4|rly  people  fiying  from  the  justice  of  the  magistrates  of  New* 
ifiStlet  it  was  placed  under  their  jurisdiction  in  matters  of' 
on  laW|  and  in  this  situation  it  still  continues.  As  persona 
of  this  town  exercised  their  trades  w  ithin  its  precincts, 

many 


fmij  attempts  \rere  made  by  the  corporation  to  detach  it 
wAflWy  from  the  county  of  Northumberland,  and  subject  it  to 
ttei'uU  rigour  of  their  charters;  but  in  thh  tlicy  never  suc- 
ceeded. 

Though  repairs  nnd  alterations,  occaiiioned  by  sieges,  changet 
m  rauiles  of  warfare,  and  common  decay,  have  robbed  \l\k  edi- 
fice of  idl  the  delicacy  of  its  infant  features,  it  is  sliU  stronglj 
ifittrked  with  Uie  character  of  Norman  architecture.  It  an- 
ciently  consisted  of  a  gqimre  tower,  and  other  necetsary  build* 
ings,  surrounded  by  an  omt.»r  and  an  inner  wall ;  its  whole  site 
occupying  little  more  than  lliree  acres. 

Nothing  remainii  of  the  outer  wall  but  the  main  entrance^ 
called  the  Black  Gate,  a  postern  at  the  head  of  the  castle  stairs, 
ind  c£!tain  fragments  by  which  ks  site  can  only  be  imperfectly 
traced.  It  hud  two  other  posterns,  one  facing  the  side,  and 
the  other  opening  into  Bailey  Gate,  both  of  which  have  been 
de?ttroycth  The  Black  Gate  was  built,  as  wc  have  seen,  in  the 
time  of  Henry  the  Third,  and  cost  upwards  of  514L  Its  arch, 
GCtimding  to  the  gloomy  length  of  thirty-six  feet,  is  low  and 
narrow^  and  flanked  by  two  lofty  circular  towers*  Besides  itA 
iron  doom  it  had  two  portcullises,  and  a  draw*-bridge  witttin  and 
The  eastern  tower  is  still  very  perfect  towards  its  base; 
:  the  rest  of  tliisi  structure  is  either  shut -up  witli  confused 
mmmea  of  buildings  or  mucli  defonned  by  conversion  into 
dwelHagsJioiisei. 

The  inner  wall  extended  from  the  Black  Gate  around  the 
great  tower,  and  again  joined  the  outer  wall  north  of  Bailej 
Gaie<  It  bad  a  large  gateway  tlirough  it  in  the  west,  and  two 
pCMterns,  walled  up,  in  the  south  side  ;  all  of  whiclt  were  pulled 
down  in  1811.  The  Great  Tower  is  about  eighty  feet  high, 
sixty-two  by  fifty-four  feet  square  on  the  outside,  and  its  walla 
nearly  fourteen  feet  thick.  The  great  door  on  the  east  is  ap- 
proached by  a  flight  of  Kteps  to  the  second  story  :  this  door  and 
Bev€tal  of  tlie  windows  have  been  tastefully  ornamented  wttli 
;iig'zag  work.     In  the  Kides  of  the  tower,  where  no  windows 

have 


44  HOElTHUMBEltLAKO. 

have  interfered,  rooms  have  been  gaitied  out  of  the  walls,  or  gat 
lerit^s  have  passed  from  one  aide,  or  Btory,  to  another.  There  is 
no  appearance  of  fire-places  in  any  part  of  it,  but  in  the  roonis  in 
the  walls.  The  dungeon^  time  out  of  mind,  has  hecn  used  as  ihe 
county  prison  for  Northumberland,  during  the  time  of  the  aau268. 
It  has  two  doors,  a  triple-grated  loop-hole,  and  measures  twenty- 
five  feet  and  a  half  by  twenty  feet  tlireii  quarters.  Its  arch  if 
sprung  from  a  hollow  pillar,  which  has  conveyed  water  from  a 
well  in  the  south-east  comer  of  the  tower,  and  twenty -one  feet 
from  tlic  ground.  Adjoining  the  dungeon,  on  the  east  side,  is 
a  chapel  of  most  beautiful  and  exquisite  architecture;  and 
above  it,  at  the  head  of  tlic  outer  stairs,  h  a  small  room,  about 
thirteen  feet  by  twelve,  which,  from  its  style  of  building,  seema 
to  have  been  used  as  an  orator  if,  A  very  bold  and  spacioua 
circular  staircase  aj»cends  from  the  dungeon  to  the  top  of  Ihe 
tower.  Above  the  dungeon  there  appears  to  have  beeo  five 
stories,  from  the  fourth  oi'  which  the  tower  has  been  raised 
from  its  original  to  its  present  height.  The  corporation  pur- 
chased this  building  in  1810,  and  intend  to  throw  an  arched 
Toof  over  it^  and  tx»  pull  down  all  the  old  houses  built 
against  it. 

The  assizes  for  Northumberland,  prior  to  164-4,  were  held  in 
the  Common  or  Moot  Hall,  "  within  tlie  inner  wall  of  the  Castle 
Garth/*  ♦  The  building  lately  occupied  for  that  purpose  had 
been  the  chapel  of  tlte  garrison  before  the  castle  was  dia* 
mantled.  Its  eastern  wall  was  of  strong  Roman  masonry; 
another  part  of  it  was  purely  Norman  ;  its  roof  was  supported 
with  two  rows  of  heavy  Gothic  arches  ;  and  its  front  had  square 
windows,  with  stone  niullions  ;  and  the  arms  of  England  quar- 
tered with  those  of  Scotland  were  cut  in  a  stone  over  ita 
entrance. 

The  design  for  the  Nerv  Courts  was  furnished  by  Mr*  Stokoe, 
ef  Newcastle,  urthltect,  and  is  now  executing  under  his  di- 
rection.    Their  foundation  stone  was  kid  by  Earl  Percy,  in 

July, 
•  Urand,  Vol.  T.  pp,  l5d,  158|  notes. 


KOHTHUMBERLAKD*  45 

July,  ISIO,  at  which  time  his  father  the  Dufcc  of  Northnra- 
bedHidi  presenled  the  county  with  three  thousand  poundi 
fowndi  expences  in  building  them.  Hieir  figure  is  a  doublo 
tBkmg  square^  forty-eight  yarda  long,  and  twenty-four  wide. 
The  ground-floor  is  partly  below  the  surface,  and  consists  of 
ceQa  mnd  other  apartments  for  the  criminals  during  the  time  of 
die  ttttizes :  the«e  are  all  covered  with  strong  Homan  arches. 
Above  ihem,  in  the  centre  of  the  buildiag,  is  an  entrance-hal), 
wnd  grand-jury  room,  on  each  side  of  which  are  the  courts, 
eaxh  arcasuring  sixty  feet  by  thirty*iive,  and  behind  them 
ipftrtmenti  for  the  judges*  juries,  witnesses,  &c.  Over  theso 
are  offices  for  the  gaoler,  clerk  of  the  peace,  and  other  officers ; 
and  ovei'  the  grand-jury  room,  an  apartment  for  the  councih  The 
ftorth  elevation  has  a  Grecian  Doric  portico  of  four  pillars^ 
where  i&  the  door  to  the  common  hall  that  leads  to  the  courts 
nd'juT}' room :  at  die  extremities  on  this  side  are  the 
es  for  the  public,  who  stand  on  vows  of  steps  rising  be* 
kind  each  other.  The  soutfi  elevation  is  taken  from  the  Par- 
tbenoii  in  Athens,  having  a  Grecian  Doric  portico  of  six  pillars, 
mA  five  feet  in  diameter,  and  twenty*eight  feet  high.  The 
feundations  are  laid  on  strong  clay,  and  constructed  of  very 
fcrgc  blocks  of  freestone.  The  whole  of  the  masonry  is  indeed 
of  a  very  superior  kind,  the  centre  of  the  walls  bprng  executed 
with  stjuared  ashlars,  and  their  outside  finely  polished. 

Pram  Harding**  Chronicle  and  the  charter  of  King  John,  it 
tppesrs,  that  the  town  had  been  defended  with  ivalls  hcforo 
the  time  (sC  Edward  the  Tirjiit,  and  their  testimony  is  strength- 
ened by  the  remains  of  a  strong  barrier  of  earth  remaining  to 
this  day  behind  the  priory  of  the  Black  Friars. 

Iceland,  and  a  manuscript  in  the  Cotton  Library,  cited  by 
Mr,  ilrand,  assign  their  origin  to  the  following  circumstance : 
*•  III  the  rdgn  of  Edward  the  First,  a  very  rich  citizen  of  New^- 
Cttlte  was  earned  off  from  that  town  into  Scotland,  and  being 
tn  last  rpinsomcd,  he  began  to  enclose  Newcastle  with  a  very 
inn  wati ;  and  the  rest  of  the  inhabitants  following  his  example, 

be 


lie  finishetl  the  untlcrUikmg  in  the  reign  of  Edward  the  Third."* 
In  1280,  the  Bluck  Friars  obtained  royal  pprniissron  to  have  a 
posiern  through  the  •  new  wall*  which  passed  through  the  mid- 
dJe  of  their  garden ;  and  in  1307,  the  Carmehtes  on  WollknoUt 
got  a  grant  to  remove  to  the  house  of  the  order  of  the  Penance 
of  JesuSy  because  *  die  wsill  newly  built*  passed  dirough  a  part 
of  their  premises.  As  soon  as  they  were  couipleted  the  town 
was  divided  into  twenty-four  wards,  according  to  tha  number 
of  gates  and  r9uud  towers  upon  them*  Tiie  free  burgesses  at 
tliat  time  were  aJl  soldiers,  A  night  watoli  of  one  hundred 
persons  was  constantly  traversing  these  bulwarks  in  the  reign  of 
Henry  die  Fourth*  "  The  strength  and  magnificcns  of  the 
waulling  of  diis  towne  far  pa£sith  all  the  waullcB  of  the  cities  of 
England,  and  most  of  the  townes  of  Europa."f  They  are  said 
to  have  borne  a  striking  hkeness  to  the  walls  of  Avignon.  We 
wonder  not  at  Leland*s  aihni ration  of  tliis  place,  when  we  con- 
sider the  strength  and  beauty  of  the  ca&tle,  the  fine  Gothic  ar- 
chitecture of  tho  walls,  die  feudal  splendour  of  the  noblenien'i 
houses,  the  number  and  beauty  of  the  monasteries  and  churches, 
and  the  \veaith  uf  die  corporation,  and  all  these  in  the  full  glory 
of  their  perfection.  The  whole  circumference  of  the  walls  is 
2740  yards*J:  The  fosse  arouud  them  is  called  the  King's 
Dykes  ;  it  was  sixty-six  feet  broad,  but  is  now  61led  up. 

These  walls  had  seven  tremendous  gates,  and  serenteea  round 
iowcn  ;  **  between  every  one  of  which  were,  for  the  most  part« 
two  watch  towers,  made  square  with  the  effigies  of  men  cut  in 
itone  upon  the  tops  of  them,  as  though  they  were  watching,**^       , 
The  names  of  the  gates  were  in  order  as  follows :— Close  Gat^^H 
Postern  Gate,  West  Gate,  New  Gate,  Pilgrim-street  Gate,  Paii^^ 
don  Gate,  and  Sand  Gate.  There  was  also  a  gate  in  Carpenter'^i 
Tower,  another  at  the  north  end  of  the  Tyne  bridge,   &i4^| 
leveral  posterns  and  water  gates;      None  of  them  remain  at 
present  but  West  Gate  and  New  Gate.     Leland  calls  the  West 

Gate 

•  Cot.  34S,  translated,    LcK  It.  Vol.  V,  fol.  103.  f  lb.  f.  lOi, 

)  Huttoti'3  plin^  §  Bourne,  p.  ITr 


'n 


J 


liORTQUMBERLAKD  47 

(iaie  '<  A  miglule  gtrong  dilnge  of  four  wards  and  an  iron  gaieJ* 
h  u  faid  to  Uave  been  built  l>y  the  niuniticcnt  Roger  Tligrnton, 
**  who  at  the  ^Tst  was  very  poore,  and,  ns  the  people  report, 
wm  a  pedlar ;  and  of  him  to  this  day  they  rehcrsc  this  ryme  i^ 

In  the  WefttgAte  came  Thornton  10* 
WiUi  41  hap|fen  liapt  In  a  raui*s  skyon."* 

^  part  of  it  has  been  pulled  douji,  and  the  rept  h  under  sen- 
tence to  suffer  a«  soon  as  the  company,  who  have  their  IialJ 
iboire  ttt  can  be  accommodated  with  a  new  situation.  New  Gate 
k  used  as  tlie  town's  prison. 

In  our  account  of  the  station  Poii*  j^lii,  we  Iiave  hinted  that 
Kfwciutle  bridge  was  buLIt  by  Hadrian.  Several  of  the  piers 
of  tJie  old  bridge  were  so  strong  that  they  could  not  be 
taken  down  w  ithout  tlie  aid  of  gunpowder.  ITiey  had  hacn 
built,  as  Mr-  Pennant  observes,^  without  springs  for  arches,  a 
maimer  of  building  used  by  the  Romans :  witness  the  bridge 
built  over  tlie  Drinube  at  Severin,  This  mode  of  building  vvaa 
well  calculated  for  eKpedition.  After  projections  of  stone  had 
been  made  over  the  piers  as  far  as  wns  consistent  wltlx  strength^ 
the  remaining  space  was  traversed  with  beams  of  timber  and 
p&vcd  upon.  In  one  of  these  piers  a  parchment  was  discovered, 
%lth  old  characters  upon  it  very  fresh ;  but  on  being  exposed 
to  the  air  they  disappeared,  and  the  parchment  mouldered 
away.  Brand  and  Pennant  have  inentioried  several  Roman 
cohu  that  were  found  in  them,  to  which  ma}-  be  added,  one  in- 
scribed round  the  head,  IMP.  CAE.  NERVAE  TRAL\NO. 
AVG.  GER.  DAC.  P.  M.  TR.  P.  COS,  V.  P.P. ;  and  another, 
ANTOKINVS  AVG.  PIVS  P.  P.  TR.  P,  COS.  IlIL 

A  bridge  existed  here  in  the  time  of  Henry  the  Second ;  it 
was  burnt  down  in  IS^S,  After  this,  lands  were  granted  to  be 
bcld  by  the  paj^nent  of  one  plank  annually  to  Tyne  bridge.  A 
^reat  flood  swept  a  part  of  it  away^  in  1339,  which  occasioned 
ISO  persons  to  be  drowned.    Grey  says  it  had  many  houses 

and 


L*  UcVR-i  LeK  il.  Vol.  V,  p.  il4.        t  Tour  is  Scot,  Vol.  III.  p.  315, 


iB  KORTftUMI!S]ILA??l>. 

and  Ao^f  BXiA  three  towers  upon  it ;  "  one  tower  on  the  souA 
flide»  the  second  in  the  middle,  and  the  third  in  Newcastle 
*ide»  lately  built  upon  mi  arch  in  the  bridge,  used  for  a  magsi- 
«me  for  the  tovn?e,"*  In  1770,  Bishop  Trevor  repaired  with 
stone  one  of  the  south  arches,  which  had  anciently  been  a 
draw-bridge,  and  was  at  that  time  constructed  of  large  be 
of  timber  covertd  witli  planks  and  puved  upon.  The  arches 
this  bridge  wtre  some  of  them  Gothic  and  others  scheme  arches'; 
they  had  no  regular  decrease  from  the  middle  to  the  end^  ;  and 
the  passage  over  them  was  very  narrow  and  crowded  wit 
boudestf 

On  Saturday,  September  seventeen,  177Iiatlclugeof  rain  fell 
in  the  western  mountains.  The  Tyne  suddenly  overflowed  its 
banks,  and  marked  its  progress  with  most  terrible  devastation.  It 
btfgan  to  rifle  at  Newcastle  about  eleven  o'clock  in  the  night, 
and  at  seven  in  the  morning  was  at  its  Iieight*  At  three 
o'clock  tlie  arches  of  this  bridge  were  filled  up,  and,  about 
four,  three  oT  them  on  the  Gateshead  side  were  forced  dowit^ 
and  seven  persons  were  drowned.  Above  the  bridge  the  river 
was  scvea  feet  four  inclies  higher  than  it  usually  is  at  good 
spring  tides  ;  but  at  Shicldsj  though  great  damage  was  done  to 
the  j^hipping  there,  the  sea  being  kept  at  a  low  level  by  the 
neap  tides,  this  flood  did  not  exceed  the  common  height  of 
spring  tides.  A  vessel  took  up  at  sea,  near  Tinmauth,  a  woodea 
cradlei  with  a  child  in  it,  which  was  alive  and  well  *  Tliree 
•hips  were  stranded  on  Newcastle  quay- 

Tlie  nrj)  Irrhlgc  is  three  hundred  feet  long,  luis  nine  archcF^ 
and  cost  upwards  of  thirty  thousand  pounds.  The  architects 
consulted  in  building  it  were  Messrs,  Smeaton,  Wooler,  and 
Mylne,  the  Er^t  of  whom  built  the  Eddystone  light-house, 
and  tlie  last  tlie  bridge  at  Blackfriars,  London.  It  was  finished 
in  1781.  But  as  it  was  unfortunately  built  too  narrow,  its 
widtli  has  since  that  time  been  extended  to  twenty-four  feet, 
by  an  ingenious  contrivance^  of  Mr.  Stephenson,  architect.     He 

constructed 
•  Ckofog.  p,  9,  t  Hdttoti!!  plan. 


€>.^ 


l^ORTMOMBERLAMO.  §^ 

uctetl  Ms  additional  width  to  the  arches,  Ott  each  side#' 
~^m  the  buttresses  of  the  piers,  and  cramped  them  ta  the 

ftirmer  work  with  large  bars  of  iron,  reaching  from  one  side  to 
the  other.  It  is  at  present  a  structure  of  great  strengtii,  cofive- 
ttienee,  and  hrmxty* 

On  the  revival  of  the  monastic  life  in  these  parts^  Newcastle 
iwn  became  famous  for  it«  convents.  There  was  a  Bcncdic-' 
tfltt  nunnery  here  so  early  as  1086,  in  which»  according  to 
ferdun^  afler  Malcolm  and  liiji  son  were  slatn  before  the  castle 
of  Alnwick,  Agus,  the  mother  of  the  Queen  of  Scotland^  and 
Chrtstiaiia,  her  sj«ter,  took  the  veil^ 

While  some  of  the  Scotch  historians  assign  tht  origin  of  the 
ikmertf  oi  St.  Bartholomevr  to  David,  King  of  Scotland, 
Speed  contends  that  it  was  founded  by  Henry  the  Second,  and 
as  lutkortty  in  the  Bodlcan  Library  ascribes  it  to  a  Baron  de 
liiHtoti,*  In  the  time  of  Bishop  Katficld  it  was  mfierably  poor, 
r  in  money  and  morals,  on  which  account  it  was  put  under 
Ae  direction  of  the  priest  of  the  church  of  St,  Nicholas.  It 
Ton  the  thir<!  of  January,  1510,  when  its  annual  value 
4«-  2d*f  It  was  situated  in  the  field  behind  the  Nun 
Gate*,  about  which  some  remains  of  it  may  still  be  traced. 

The  house  of  the  Black  Frian  was  fo untied  about  A.  D. 
1251,  by  Sir  Peter  Scott,  the  first  mayor  of  Ncs\  castle,  and 
kis  800^  Sir  Nicholas,  who  had  been  tliree  times  a  bailiff  of  the 
^mtu  It  was  in  the  church  of  this  house  that  Edward  Baliol 
M  homage  to  Edward  the  Till rd,  f  and  alienated  to  liim  the 
^^  Scottish  counties  next  adjoining  to  the  borde^rs  of  Knghnid. 
At  the  dlasolution  this  house  consisted  of  a  prior  and  twelve 
^Tirt,  and  had  a  yearly  income  of  51.  19s,  4d.     It  w:is  granted 

*o  the  mayor  and  burgesses  of  Ne^vcastle,  and  by  them,  in 
V0L.XIL  E  1552, 


*  Bnmd,  I.  tOU  t  Stev.  Cunt,  of  Dug.  Mou.  Vol.  IL  p,  ifd. 

S"Ryin.  Focd.  T»  IV.  616.  Ypod.  Neuat-  p.  all.  Wdu  H"mniifig- 
'*'d,  V.iU  II.  p.  «77,  ^-c.  fltc/*  Bmnd,  II.  40in  Kni|;hton  f•T^  Ed- 
^1!  Md  a  pirliutnt'fit  at  York,  U  which  pUcv  BiiUol  caaie  iu)il  diri 
^4ni|i  to  tiifi  £ngli»h  king,  p.  i5C^. 


50  KOHTHUMBBItLAKB. 

155'i,  te  time  of  the  mysteries,  or  ancient  trades  of  the  towOt 
•even  of  whom  have  their  halls  in  it  to  this  day.  Enough  af  it 
remains  to  give  a  suilicient  idea  af  it<  original  state* 

The  priory  o£  Augustine  Frian  is  supposed  to  have  been 
fountk'il  by  Wilham  Lord  Ross,  Baron  of  Work  upon  Tweedy 
sometime  before  the  year  1291.  Margaret,  the  eldest  daughter 
df  Henry  the  Seventh,  being  affianced  to  the  King  of  Scotland, 
and  on  her  way  thither  **  was  brought  and  conveyed  to  tlie 
1  Veres  Austyns,  where  she  was  lodged,  and  honnestJy  re- 
ceivcil  by  those  revested  with  the  crosse.'**  **  The  kings  of 
England  kept  house  in  it  when  they  came  with  an  army  royal! 
against  Scotland ;  and  since  tlie  suppression  of  the  monasteries, 
made  a  magazine  and  storeboufte  for  the  north  parts*  Now  of 
late  thcit  princely  fabrick  is  demolished,  and  laid  level  with  the 
groimd/'f  It  was  surrendered  on  tlie  ninth  of  January,  1559, 
when  it  consisted  of  a  prior,  seven  brethren,  and  three  novices, 
A  few  door-ways  and  old  wa!b  of  it  may  still  be  seen  in  the 
workhouse  for  All-Saints*  parish ;  and  its  whole  site  is  occupied 
by  hospitals,  scliools,  and  other  pub  he  buildings.  Some  re- 
mains of  it  are  still  visible  in  tJie  general  hospital  or  workhouse 
of  the  town* 

The  priory  of  the  Franciscan^  or  Grey  Friars,  owed  it» 
foundation  to  the  Carliols,  a  family  of  wealthy  merchants,  be- 
fore the  year  1300,  The  English  province  had  seven  custo* 
dies  of  this  order,  whereof  the  custody  of  Newcastle,  containing 
nine  convents,  was  one.  At  the  dissolution  this  house  con- 
sisted of  a  prior,  eight  friars,  and  two  novices.  "  It  was  a 
very  fair  tlnDg,  and  was  granted,  in  the  thirty-sixth  of  King 
Henry  the  Eighth,  to  the  Earl  of  Essex  and  James  Rockby."J 

Hugh  of  Newcastle  flourished  in  this  convent ;  and  the  cele- 
brated Duns  Scoitts  took  the  order  of  St.  Francis  here,  as  did 
also  Fnar  Martin^  of  Alnw*ick.  Hugh  was  a  zealous  defender 
of  Scotus  against  Aquinas,  and  one  of  the  fourteen  about  his 
tomb.$     Martin  acquired  notable  knowledge  in  philosophy  and 

divinity 
•  Brand,  11.  435»       ♦  Greys  Chor,  15.        I  Tan.  Not,        %  Bale, 


J 


NORTH  UMBBRt  AND*  Sl 

^rioltjr  al  Oxford.  He  resided  chtefly  in  thia  momfitery,  and 
died  and  wta  buried  in  it.  The  houses  of  this  order»  fn  the 
mirdenflhip  of  Newcastle,  were  Dundee,  Dumfries,  Hadding- 
ton, Berwick,  Roxburgh,  Richmond,  in  Yorkshire^  Carlisle^ 
Hartlapool/  Newcastle.* 

The  Carmelites  had  their  first  house  in  tliis  town  on  Wall 
Koo]),  from  which  they  removed  in  1507,  on  the  pica  of  en- 
croachment made  upon  their  premises  by  the  new  wall  of  the 
town.  They  obtdined^  on  this  occasion,  a  grant  from  Edward 
the  Third,  of  the  house  of  the  Friars  of  the  Penance  of  Jesu^^f 
on  condition  that  they  supported  Walter  de  Carlton,  the  only 
funriviiig  brother  of  that  order,  as  became  bis  rank,  and  for 
the  remainder  of  his  life.  This  house  was  at  the  foot  of  West- 
gate  Street,  John  Dynley,  bom  of  a  good  family  in  Newcastlei 
and  a  learned  writer,  Bourished  in  it  about  the  year  1450.  At 
tiie  suppression,  there  were  in  it  a  prior,  seven  brethren,  and 
two  novices;  and  it  was  then  valued  at  91.  lis.  ^d.  Its  clmreh 
was  dedicated  to  St,  Mary.  The  whole  of  its  premises  were 
pinied,  in  1546,  to  Sir  Richard  Gresham  and  Richard  Bil* 
Vi^gfiird.  Some  remains  of  windows  and  arched  door-waya 
Siay  still  be  seen  in  the  houses  erected  on  its  site, 

The  Hospital  of  the  Trimtaruim^  on  Wall  Knoll,  was 
liunded  by  William  de  Acton,  a  burgess  of  Newcastle,  in 
136K  He  purchased  the  situation  of  the  White  Friars,  who 
hid  deserted  it  for  several  yean.  The  revenues  of  this  society 
were  divided  into  three  portions,  one  of  which  was  appro- 
priated  to  their  own  use,  another  given  to  the  poor,  and  the 
third  expended  in  the  liberation  of  Christians  in  captivity 
iiDongst  infidels.  They  were  visited  by  the  master  of  St,  Ro- 
bert's, at  Knaresborough,  every  year,  on  Trinity  Sunday,  on 
which  occa»on  they  were  bound  to  present  him  with  a  horse^ 
load  of  fiafa ;  failing  htm,  tlie  mayor  and  bailiffs  of  Newcastle 

E  2  were 

•  8Uv.  Cont.  of  Dag.  Mon.  Vol.  L  pp.  9t>,  98,  <>9, 

t  Tb^  were  nfttmily  fttyled  Frisn  c^f  tlie  Stc,  sad  wero  i^tilrU  Uere  ia 
ttsa,    Bnod,  T.  sa. 


Si  NOBTHUMBERtA^D* 

^ere  their  visitors-  According  to  their  foundation  charter^ 
they  were  bound  **  to  Imve  ready,  at  all  times^  three  comp€« 
'  lent  beds  tor  the  use  of  stranger*  resorting  to  their  house,"  * 
Tlie  possessions  of  this  house  were  granted  to  Sir.  R,  Gresham 
and  R,  Billingford,  Gent,  in  151-6;  and  thirty-six  years  after 
they  weru  conveyed  to  the  corporation  of  Newcastle,  in  whoic 
I  possession  they  have  continued  ever  since. 

The  Hospital  of  St,  I^Fary,  in  Westgate  Street^  was  founded 
in  Henry  the  Second's  time,  by  Aselack,  of  Killinghowe»  on  a 
parcel  of  hig  ov^ni  ground,  for  two  friars  regular,  and  a  chaplain, 
to  sei-ve  God  and  the  poor.  Provision  was  also  made  in  it  for 
Ihe  entertainment  of  poor  clergymen  and  strangers  that  were 
'  traveliing.f  It  appears  to  liave  been  a  cell  to  the  nunnery  of 
St  Bartholomew,  and  to  have  liad  a  second  foundation^  by  i 
charter  of  Ridiard  the  Firsts  at  which  time  its  first  founder 
was  alive. 

An  authority, :t  dated  A.  D*  1 546,  reports  it  to  have  been 
founded  for  a  master  to  be  continually  resident,  for  a  chaplain 
to  say  divine  service*  for  six  '  bedefolks'  in  the  alms-house, 
and  to  lodge  poor  and  buy-faring  people,  and  to  bury  such  m 
fortuned  to  die  there.  Nine  cliaJdron  of  coals  were  also  to  be 
distributed  among  poor  pe^ple^  and  ten  shillings  to  be  given 
yearly  among  the  bede folks  *  which  order  is  not  observed  at 
presenL^ — Clear  yearly  value,  twenty-nine  pounds  nine  shillings 
and  fourpence«  Dr.  Davel  was  master  at  that  time,  but  not  re-* , 
sident;  and  a  priest,  who  kept  the  house  and  orchards,  aod  bad^l 
five  pounds  yearly^  was  the  only  one  ^  in  hospitalite*  at  it.  ■  Dr* 
Davel  supplied  Leland  with  considerable  information  re^peetiiif 
this  town  and  its  neighbourhoods 

Though  this  house  came  under  the  statute  for  the  dissoluttoa 
I  irf*  religious  houses,  the  community  of  Newcastle  continued  ta 
i  present  a  master  to  the  Bishop  of  Durham,  and  its  revenues  wer0 
i  enjoyed^  till  the  time  of  James  tbe  First,  who,  in  consequence 


^  Botuney  sppeadiji* 

I  la  tlie  Aa?*  OC 


f  Asrkek*ft  cfairter* 
Bfand,78, 


I 


[  charter  being  lost,  granted  a  new  one  m  1611.  Tim 
ctertir  decreed^  that  it  should  consist  of  a  master*  and  m%  ull- 
married  poor  old  men,  conetttuting  together  a  body  poh^ic  in 
law,  axid  having  a  cojiimon  seal* 

As  the  mayor  and  officers  of  the  town,  had,  by  very  ancient 
IM^,  been  chosen  in  this  hospital,  the  chancel  of  its  church 
wmt  coaverted  into  the  corporation's  election  room,  soon  after 
the  year  1585*  When  the  grammar -scliool  of  Newcastle  waa 
incorporated  by  Elizabeth^  it  was  removed  from  a  buiidtng  on 
the  north  side  of  St.  Nicholas*  churchyard  to  the  hospital  of  St, 
Mary,  in  West  Gate,  the  premises  of  wliich  continue  to  this  day  to 
be  occupied  by  this  seminary  of  learning  and  its  diiferent  masters, 

The  hospital  of  Sl  Mary  Magdalen,  stood  between  Vine 
Lane  and  Barra^  bridge,  where  many  vestiges  of  it  remain.  It 
WM  founded  by  Henry  the  First,  for  a  master,  brethren,  and 
listiers,  who  were  to  receive  persons  aiflictt-d  with  the  Iqirosy. 
**  It  WBB  founded  by  reporte,  to  th'  entent  ther  shoulde  be  a 
master,  brevbeme,  and  systers,  to  receyve  all  suche  leproso 
folks  as  should  fortune  to  be  diseased  of  that  kynde  of  sickness, 
and  syns  that  kind  of  sickeness  k  abated,  it  ii  used  for  ttie 
corofortc  and  heJpc  of  the  poore  folks  of  the  towne  that 
chaimcetli  to  fall  sycke  in  time  of  pestilence-* — Yerely  valew, 
niae  poundti  e]e%'en  ahilllngs  and  fourpence*^*f     According  to 

E  3  Bourne, 

•  ♦*  Tq  1717,  Newcastle  &ppcArf  1o  Imve  beea  rxKited  by  a  grcitoiit 
ftniinc  and  morizirity,  iriMorimcli,  &ays  }lniinic»  thut  the  (|iiick  coiiJtl 
httftfty  bury  U»e  dfad  ;  aud  a  great  cnrruption  of  rattle  and  zrs^,  Soma 
ilr  llir  flmti  of  tlivir  own  dii1dr«a;  iind  liiicvesf  in  prison,  devoured  tlrr^e 
fbot  were  Dc>*!y  broitj^ltl  in,  and  ^ecdily  ate  tljcm  Imlf  alive/*  Tlie  plai^tic 
tktt  ratted  licrc  in  lr/^5  ;  but  its  ctlecU  were  moderate  at  tlmt  tinu',  rotOz 
pvetl  witb  the  mcrcUe^  desolatiun  it  made  in  16:16.  From  May  tiie 
Aernttb,  ia  tbal  year,  to  Deeendier  tiie  tltirty-iir^t,  h037  pt.r»on»  died  in 
Iftb  town,  of  tbift  '  trcmendons  visitation.'  It  eanic  from  Hallmid,  and 
North  Shields  to  Ncwcaitle.    JeiintMson*^  Newe.  Call,  ^e. 

t  Certif,  in  tJie  Angni.  Office.    Bi^mt,  I.  iMT. 


04  KORTHtJMBERLAKD. 

BoumCt  'fourteen  persons  within  the  hous^  were  iilIow«<| 
a  room^  coals^  and  eight  shillings  per  month;  and  fifteen  wlth'«* 
out,  some  eight  shillings  per  month,  some  five  sliilUngs,  and 
gome  two  shillings  and  aixpence/* 

King  James,  in  1611,  incorporated  this  hospital  with  th« 
chapel  of  St  Thomaa  k  Becket^  on  Tjne-bridge,  when  it  wi 
decreed  that  they  should  in  future  consist  of  a  master  an^ 
three  poor  and  aged  unmarried  burgesses  of  Newcaatle;  thai' 
the  master  should  receive  one  third  of  their  revenues  and  ths 
remainder  be  divided  amongst  the  brethren;  and  that  the  may* 
aod  common  council  ahould  be  patrons. 

The  Maiiion  de  Dicy,  i«  the  only  public  buihling  marked 
upon  Sandhjll,  in  Speed's  plan  of  Newcastle,  It  was  founded 
by  Roger  Thornton,  in  140i{,  for  one  chaplain,  who  should 
also  be  wardun>  nine  poor  men  and  four  women,  under  the 
name  of  the  hospital  of  St.  Catharine,  called  Thornton's  hosprtaLf 
The  son  of  its  founder  granted  the  use  of  its  hall  and  kitchen 
•*  for  a  young  couple  when  they  were  married,  to  muke  tlicir  wed- 
ding dinner  in,  and  receive  t!ie  gills  and  o0erings  of  their  friends, 
for  at  that  time  houses  were  not  large,"  It5  clear  yearly  value, 
in  15S5,  was  eight  pounds  one  penny.  Sir  Richard  Lumley, 
one  of  the  Thornton  family,  by  the  female  line,  conveyed  it  to 
the  mayor  and  burgesses  of  Newcastle,  June  die  first,  1624-.  It 
is  occupied  as  a  warehouse* 

On  the  authority  of  Fordun*  and  other  Scottish  historians,  it 
is  believed  that  a  monastery  for  Pr je mon s t ra t t^n si ans  was  founded 
iiere,  by  David,  King  of  Scotland.  This  order  had  lands  at 
Fenham ;  and  an  ancient-looking  house  in  Grindon  Chare» 
traditionally  called  tlie  chapel  of  St.  John,  and  strongly  built 
of  stone,  and  vaulted ;  it  ia  .supposed  to  have  been  their  con- 
vent. There  was  also  a  chapel  below  the  Ousebtirni  in  the 
parish  of  All-Saints,  dedicated  to  St,  LawTcnce,  and  founded 
by  one  of  the  Percys,  which  is  said  to  have  been  dependent 

on 
•  HtiL  p*  151.  t  MonasL  Angl,  11.  474.  Tram.  p.  170. 


4 


IfORTHtJMBSRLAKl^HHHH^H  SB 

m  the  priory  of  St,  John  of  Jerusalem.     This  chapel  and  its 
fmaemons  were  granted,  in  1 54*9,  to  the  corporation* 

A  grant  was  also  obtained,  in  136Kfor  founding  here  a  fra* 
lemity  in  honour  of  the  nativity  and  resurrection  of  our  Lord ; 
'  but  it  was  repealed  in  the  following  year.  Authority,  too,  was 
I  ^veUt  in  1104,  for  founding  a  gutld,  or  fraternity,  in  honour  of 
^  Sl  John  the  Baptist  and  St.  John  the  Apostle ;  but  its  history 
^  is  Tcry  obscure. 

Near  Barras  bridge,  there  are  remains  of  a  chapet,  dedicated 
^  to  Su  James,  and  supposed  to  have  had  connection  with  '  the 
'  laser-house  neighe  adjoining/     One  of  the  Earls  of  Northum« 
^bcrland  founded  a  chapel  in  honour  of  St*  Lawrence,  some 
part  of  the  ruins  of  which,  may  still  be  seen  on  St*  Lawrence** 
I  quay.    It  was  valued  at  sixty  shillings  a  year,  and  granted  to 
I  the  corporation  by  Edward  the  Sixth.     There  was  also,  before 
[  the  dissolution,  a  chapel,  or  oratory,  in  one  of  the  towers  of 
^  Newcastle  bridge ;  and  in  another  part  of  it  a  hermitage,  te- 
nanted by   a  recluse,   who  was  one  of   the  thirty   priests  to 
whom  Roger  Thornton^  by  will,  gave  six  marks  a  year,  for 
ftnging  masses  for  hus  soul* 

Newcastle  ie  supposed  to  liave  anciently  been  contained  within 
the  parish  of  Gosforth.  At  present  the  churches  and  chapek 
within  it,  as  well  as  the  chapels  of  Gosforth  and  Craronngtonj 
are  tubject  to  the  mother  church  of  St.  Nicholas.  The  respec- 
tive limits  of  the  four  parishes,  into  w^hich  the  town  is  divided, 
^  were  marked  out  in  12^0  :  in  180],  they  contained  5276  houses, 
and  28,924  inhabitants;  and  in  ISl  1 ,  there  were,  in  the  same  dis- 
I  irtct,  314^ houses,  ilihabited hy6i61  families,  and  27,587 persons, 
llie  church  of  St*  Nicholas  was  founded  by  St,  Ossmundt 
Bisbop  of  Salisbu^,  in  the  time  of  the  Conqueror,  Henry  the 
Fim  granted  it  to  the  canons  of  St,  Mary^  Carlisle  ;  and  Hugh 
PudKy  confirmed  the  grant,  rest?rvjng  all  fruit?,  ohlation^i,  S:l\ 
except  the  great  tythes,  to  the  vicar.  It  was  burnt  down  in 
1216*  Its  revenues  in  1296,  amounted  to  1051.  lis.  8d.;  of 
rhjch  S8L  1 3s.  ^d.  was  paid  to  its  rector,  the  Bishop  of  Carlisle : 

E    I  the 


I 


the  like  sum  to  the  prior  of  Carlisle,  81.  to  the  prior  of  Tyne-^ 
mouth,  and  201.  5s.  to  iu  vicar,  who  had  to  deduct  from  I ui 
portion  a  pension  of  thirteen  marks  to  his  rector.     The  siruc 
^  lure,  ns  it  stands  at  present,  is  supposed  to  have  been  r^^^d  in 
^1359.     On  like  suppression  of  the  priorv,  and  the  cxeattOD  of 
v^hc  dean  and  chapter  of  Carlisle,  by  Henry  tho  EigUtbp 
rnoiety  of  the  rectory  of  Newcastle  was  given  to  that  institution,! 
The  furniture  of  this  church  being  in  exceeding  bad  repair  a 
•large  sum  was  raided  by  voluntary  contribution,  in  17J53,  to  de- 
fray the  expence  of  fitting  up  the  cliancel  with  pew5.     TliisI 
alteration  was  necessary  :  hut  as  IMr.  Brand  observes,  tire  anti- 
.  fjuary  must  for  ever  lament  the  havoc  made  on  this  occasion 
,among  tlie  funeral  monmneuts.     The  porch  of  St.  Mary  is  hand* 
[ ,  somely  fitted  up  with  oak  stall^s,  and  till  lately  was  used  at  ma^l 
^tins*     St.  George's  porch,  in  which  the  festival  of  that  saint  wai] 
^^celebratedf  in  161 7»  was  repaired  %b out  a  century  ago  by  the 
corporation.     There  were  nine  or  ten  oratories  here,  the  united 
revenues  of  which,  at  the  dissolution,  were  valued  at  4-^1*  4&.  6d. 
a  year.    The  assizes  for  Northumberland  were  held  here  in  1810 
and  1811. 

The  steeple  of  this  church  is  very  lolly,  and  its  top,  which  111 
built  in  tlie  form  of  an  imperial  crown,  in  a  work  of  adinirabla J 
lightness  and  elegance.     Its  arches  and  knotted  pinnacles 
every  direction  arc  thrown  into  hnes  of  great  delicacy ;  "and,  at ' 
four  points  of  view,  tlie  light  through  its  centre  assumes  the  forpa 
of  a  well-proportioned  w  heat-sheaf.  Thi^  purt  h  supposed  In  have 
been  added  in  the  time  of  Henry  the  Sixth;  but  its  history  is 
very  obscure.     Tliere  is  a  tradition,  ttiat  during  the  siege  la 
164K  the  Scottish  general  tlireatened  to  demohsh  this  steeple^" 
unless   the  keys  of  the  town    were  iinniediately  surrendered. 
The  mayor  ordered  the  chief  of  the  Scotch  pmoners  in  the  j 
town  to  he  taken  to  the  top  of  it,  and  then  replied,  "  our  ene- 
mies shall  either  preserve  it  or  be  buried  in  its  ruins."     This 
answer  had  the  desired  elFcct. 
John  CouMnS|  an  aldernian  of    Newcastle^   in    166 1»  be- 

cjueathed 


KORTHUMBEaiAND,  57 

ijucathed  sixty  folios  and  forty  quartos  to  the  library  of  this 
dturdu  In  a  rcwm  calkd  tliu  old  library  there  arc  several 
aiued  booksi  covered  with  dust,  ami  in  wTetclied  repair; 
QOBg&t  which  is  the  bible  of  Hexliam  abbey,  beautifully  ill^- 
minated^  and  upwards  of  60*)  yeats  old,  with  a  few  other  uiaiui- 
scripts.  In  1763,  Widur  Blackett,  Euq.  built  a  library  against 
llie  south  wall  of  the  chancel,  to  contain  the  Iwoks  of  tiie  Uev, 
Dr.  Tomlinson,  and  other  benefactors*  This  colkctiav  la  every 
day  open  to  the  public.  It  is  large  and  valuable,  and  super* 
intended  by  a  librarian,  who  hai»  a  e>alary  of  t25l.  a  year. 

**  In  tJ»e  north  part  of  thi«  church,**  says  Grey,  **  la  a  shrine 
of  Henry,  the  Fourth  Percy  Earlc  of  Nortliumberland,  who  w^a§ 
killed  by  the  hands  of  the  rebels,  in  Yorkshire,  gutlierii>g  up  a 
iubsidy;  be  was  buried  at  Beverly,  and  this  made  in  memory  of 
lain  in  liis  owne  couatrey,  he  having  a  house  in  this  towne^  and 
Ji,  aiid  other  noblemen  and  gentry  in  tliose  days.  '  Ornic^fO 
ima  Hcitrki  Perctf  k  Northtmbria\  qui  per  Rehcllium  manus 
Gunhiii^  See  J"  This,  with  many  other  funeral  monuments, 
ma  destroyed  by  the  alterations  made  iu  pewiug  the  chancel  in 
ITS3 ;  they  have,  however,  been  replaced  by  several  elegant 
productions  of  art,  erected  to  the  memory  of  North uralierland 
lamilies, 
^Tlie  origin  of  the  Ciiaptl  of  Ht,  Thomas  h  BickHi^  at  the 
fidge-cnd,  i»  unknown.  It  existed  in  1218.  It  had  two  chan- 
m  it*  By  charter  of  James  the  Firj^t  it  was  incorporated 
With  tlie  hospital  of  St.  Mary  MagduJen  ;  aud  in  17^'i,  it  was 
repaired,  and  fitted  up,  as  a  chapel  of  ease  to  St.  Nicholas.  **  In 
^%  tli<^  outside  of  it  was  hewn  over,  and  a  new  steeple  built, 
the  old  one  being  taken  da\^  n  to  make  the  passage  on  to  the 
bridge  more  spaeio  us/  *  * 

Sf.  Andrrxv^s  Church  lias  so  wdl  escaped  the  ravages  of 
timr,  war,  and  fanaticism,  as  to  retain  much  of  its  original  ma- 
•onry.  The  chancel  arch  is  semicircular  and  ornamented  with 
iig-xag  work,  in  the  Norman  st}k\     Tliis  church  is  mentioned 

in 
•  Account  of  Newca&Oe,  in  irsr,  p>  15. 


p 


SB  KORTHUMBERLAJfD, 

in  the  TjTianouth  chartulary,  under  the  year  1219;  and  Bouroe 
8uppOfi€8  it  was  founded  by  the  tovmsmen  and  religious  houses. 
There  were  three  chantries  in  it  before  the  reformation.  The 
chantry  dedicated  to  the  Holy  Trinity  was  probably  founded 
by  Sir  Adam  de  Athol,  who  was  sherifi*  of  Northumberland  in 
1S8S,  and  was  buried  in  this  place  under  a  stone,  bearing  this 
^inscription:  "Hie  jacent  donunus  Adamarus  de  Atholl  milea 
et  domina  Maria  uxor  ejus  quae  oblit  quarto  ded mo  die  mensis 

* — anno    domini    millesimo    tricentesJmo -Animarum    propi* 

tietur.**     The  altar-pieccg  a  high  effort  of  the  pencil  of  Luca 
Crkmlana,  was  presented  by  Major  Anderson* 

The  date  and  founder  of  St,  John*s  Vhiirch  are  unknown. 
ill  exiited  in  1286.  Though  it*  walls  are  strongly  marked  by 
•  the  hand  of  time,  its  architecture  evinces  no  high  antiquity* 
Its  windows,  and  especially  the  great  eastern  window,  abound 
with  curious  specimens  of  painted  glass*  It  had  one  chantry 
dedicated  to  St*  Thomas  the  Martyr,  a  second  to  the  Virgin 
Mary,  and  a  third  to  the  Holy  Trinity. — '*  This,"  says  Grey, 
**  is  a  pretty  little  church,  commciided  by  an  archprelate  of  this 
kingdome,  because  it  resembkih  much  a  cross."  The  wooden 
spout  down  which  the  dove  on  the  day  of  Pentecost  was  let 
to  represent  the  descent  of  the  Holy  Ghost,  remained  here  in 
the  beginning  of  last  century.  In  the  cemetry  here  is  a  stone 
inscribed  as  follows  :^ 

'*  Here  liei  the  remains  of  Joliu  Cunningham.  Of  bb  excellence  m  a 
pastoral  poet,  hit  works  will  remain  a  mcmnmeut  for  agci,  aficr  lhi«  trm- 
porai^*  tribute  of  ettcefn  ia  in  dust  forgotten*  He  died  at  Newcaatle,  Sept. 
18,  177.S,  aged  44." 

AH-Sainis*  Church*  —  **  I  met  with  an  account  of  the 
churchyard  of  All-Hallows,  in  1286,  which  is  a  plain  proof 
that  the  church  was  then  in  being."*  The  date  of  its  founda- 
tion is,  however,  extremely  uncertain,  and  its  records  are  few, 
and  no  way  curious.  It  had  seven  chantries  at  the  dissolution. 
The  old  building  was   167  feet  long,  and  77  feet  wide.     Ita 

chancel 
•  Bouruep  p,  88* 


J 


I 


I 


KORT&UMBERLANO.  59 

vhancel  was  built  upon  a  square  and  spacious  crypt,  supported 
by  one  pillar  id  the  centre,  and  had  been  lighted  by  windowg, 
which,  when  Mr.  Brand  visited  it,  in  1783,  w  ere  walled  up  and 
greatly  below  the  level  of  the  floor  of  the  late  church.  Its  bells 
were  cast  In  1696,  out  of  an  equestrian  statue  of  James  the  Se« 
cond,  which  stood  upon  SandliiU.  **  This  statue  was  the  work 
rf  Mr.  William  Larson,  was  approved  of  by  Sir  Christopher 
WreOt  *od  cost  the  town  8001,  It  was  throtvn  into  the  Tyne 
bj  the  mob,  in  1688. 

The  present  structure  was  built  by  authority  of  an  act  of  par* 
liament,  passed  in  1 783,  and  afler  a  design  of  Mr.  Stephenson, 
architect.  It  is  in  truth  a  most  magniiiccnt  edifice.  Its  form 
is  circular,  and  its  pew  a  and  galleries  all  of  mahogany.  The 
portico  on  the  south  is  adorned  with  five  Ionic  columns ;  and  the 
Bpire  is  lolly  and  elegant.  It  must,  however,  be  confessed  that 
tikis  style  of  architecture  is  unsuitable  to  houses  dedicated  to 
rdigtous  purposes ;  and  that  it  shrinks  into  insignificance,  when 
compared  witli  the  solemn  regularity  and  granducr  of  the  Gothic 
style-  The  whole  expence  of  rebuilding  this  church  is  said  to 
have  exceeded  27»000h 

The  Chapel  of  >St,  Anne^  which  is  dependent  upon  All- 
Saints*  church,  was  neglected  for  several  years  afler  the  re- 
fitroiation ;  but  repaired  by  tlie  town  in  J  682.  The  present 
degasit  structure  was  built  by  Mr.  Newton,  at  tlie  expence  of 
the  corporation,  and  consecrated  in  1768. 

Tlic  houses  of  religious  assembly  for  dissenters  are  more  rc- 
mariiablo  for  their  number  than  for  splendour  of  establishment, 
tntiquity,  or  beautiful  architecture*  Witliin  the  limits  of  this 
town  there  are  two  Roman  Catholic  chapels ;  six  meeting-houses 
for  presbyterians,  in  communion  with  the  church  of  Scotland; 
the  burghers,  the  anti-burgliers,  the  Calvinistic  baptists,  and 
the  independents,  each  have  one.  The  Weslean  metliodists 
have  their  orphan-house,  and  their  Ebeuizer :  and  the  new 
cooncctJODf  or  KiibamiteSi  assemble  at  Bethel^  in  Manor  Chare, 

The 


ro  NORTHtmBERLAKD. 

The  house  of  the   Uiiitarians  is  in  Hanover  Square,  and  has  m  I 
library^     There  is  also  a  small  congregation  of  Glassites* 

The  Grammar *8chool  was  founded  by  Thouia*  Horsley^  wha 
was  mayor  of  NewenstJe  in  1525.     Queen  Ehzabetli  rcfoundcd 
it  in  1 599.     Its  master  has  usually  been  ap|iotnled  to  the  mas«^  i 
tership  of  St.  Mary'^  HospitaJ,  the  preniisen  of  which,  since  tlie' 
refoundation,  have  been  converted  into  school-rooms  and  dwel* 
lings  for  the  masters  of  this  institution.  Bishop  Tlidiej^  the  mar- 
tyr, Colonel  Lilbuniej  Mr,  Hori^lcy,  autlior  of  Uie  Britannia  Ho^  . 
mana,  and  Dr,  Akenside,  were  scholars  here ;  Mr.  Dawes,  the 
fiuthor  of  Miscellanea  Critica,  wan  master  from  1738  lo  1750L  ] 
Lords  CoUingwood  and  Eldon,  Sir  William  Scott,  and  several 
other  di^tinguiiibed  cliaracters  received  the  rudiments  of  their  ] 
education  here,  under  the  Reverend  Hugh  Moises,    This  valua* 
ble  man  died  in  1806,  aged  eighty-five^    A  monument  finely  9%*^ 
ei'Uted  by  Flaxman,  at  theexpence  of  several  of  hig  pupils^  audi 
the  corporation  of  Newcastle,  has  been  erected  to  his  memory 
in  St,  Nicholas'  church. 

The  town  is  well  provided  witli  institutions  for  instructing  the  I 
children  of  the  poor.  Each  of  the  four  churches  has  a  charity 
«chooh  hberally  endowed.  Tliere  is  another  attached  to  the  cha- 
pel of  St.  Anne ;  and  the  Sunday  schools  are  nearly  as  nume- 
rous us  the  several  places  of  religious  worship.  A  very  hand- 
some and  capacious  structure  was  also  erected  in  1810,  for  the 
general  reception  of  poor  children  of  all  sects  and  denomina^ 
tionn,  to  be  educated  on  the  mctliod  of  ^Ir.  Lancaster.  It  waa 
built  to  commemorate  his  Majesty's  entry  into  the  hflieth  yenr 
of  his  reign,  and  therefore  named  the  Rot/ai  Jtdniee  SchooL 

The  Iniirniary  stands  on  the  west  side  of  the  town  and  over* 
looks  the  Tyne,  This  charity  was  first  established  in  1731,  and 
the  edifice  commenced  in  the  same  and  finished  in  the  ensuing 
year.  Its  situation,  prospect,  and  external  plan  of  architecture, 
were  well  chosen,  but  its  wards  were  large  and  crowded,  and  the 
whole  house  badiy  ventilated.  These  iuconveniencce  were  re- 
presented 


^ 
» 


NDRTRCMBERLANO*  61 

pnmvted  to  the  public  in  IBOl,  and  bernefactionfl,  amounting  to 
liearSOOOL  were  procured  to  remove  tbein.  In  1803,  thi*  neces- 
9»y  additions  and  improvements  were  completed.  The  revenue* 
of  tlie  institution  partly  arise  from  funded  property,  but  chiefly 
from  annual  voluntary  contnbutiuns.  '*  From  April  the  firal 
1809*  to  March  thirty-one,  1810,  it  restored,  under  the  bles- 
mbg  of  Providence,  to  their  friends  and  the  community,  1117 
poor  pcfBODS,  vrboUy  freed  from  their  respective  complaints.  la 
tldi  institution,  since  lU  commencement  to  the  present  tmm^ 
4§,712  cures  have  been  performed ;  and  it  is  matter  of  8atisfiM> 
Ittrjr  reflection,  that  the  cures,  during  each  of  the  years  from 
1803  inclusive,  have  been,  fortunately,  in  progressive  increaae/' 
Id  the  governor*a  room  is  a  very  fine  full  lengtli  portrait  of  Sir 
Walter  Blackett,  by  Re}^oldB ;  one  of  Matthew  Ridley,  Esq. 
by  Webb ;  one  of  Dr.  Butler,  Bishop  of  Durham ;  and  one  of 
Dr.  Bemion,  Bishop  of  Gloucester ;  all  of  whom  were  great  be- 
nc&ctors  to  the  charity. 

A  DUpauar^  was  established  in  Pilgrim  Street,  in  this 
town,  1777-  It  has  since  been  removed  into  Low-triar  Street, 
where  a  suitable  building  has  been  purchased,  and  iitted  up  by 
the  goYemors  of  the  institution*  *•  In  1801,  there  were  ad- 
miUcd  to  the  benefits  of  this  charity,  four  hundred  and  twenty- 
five  persons  afflicted  with  fevers.  The  hardest  in  1 800  was  late, 
the  grain  and  potatoes  damaged,  and  theretbre  Uie  food  of  the 
poor  was  not  only  scanty,  but  afforded  little  nutriment.  The 
fever,  however,  was  tractable,  and  from  the  exertion  of  this  cha- 
rity few  died.**  In  1810  it  appeared,  that  "  56,285  had  been 
admitted  to  the  benefit  of  the  dispensary,  of  whom  52,572  had 
taeti  cured^"     Vaccination  is  performed  liere  gratis  to  the  poor. 

Ifllien  the  Infirmary  was  enlarged,  an  attempt  was  made  to  fit 
up  a  part  of  it  iovjever  wdfts,  but  this  was  over-ruled  ;  and,  in 
13(H,  a  Homeoi  Recox^rt^  was  built,  near  the  west  gate,  by.  vo- 
Imtary  subscription.  It  was  instituted  for  the  cure  and  preven- 
tiao  of  contagious  diseases,  and  has  its  medical  establL^lunent 

from 


0S  XORT»UMBEntATfD# 

from  tlie  dispensary.  "  Fifteen  patienta  were  admitted  into  t!i» 
hospital  in  ISOOi  and  those  mostly  taken  out  of  numerous  &- 
milies  ill  the  close  and  crouded  parts  of  the  town.*'  ♦ 

Dr.  Hdl,  an  eminent  physician  in  this  town,  soxiie  yean  since 
erected,  on  the  outside  of  the  West  Gate,  a  set  of  very  handsome 
baths.  Their  design  was  furnished  by  Win*  Craneson,  architect. 
Considerable  medical  skill  has  been  employed  here  in  tlie  appll* 
cation  of  the  gaseous  fluids  ;  and  we  imagine  we  see  the  com* 
fort  and  elegance  of  the  Roman  age  revived  in  the  use  of  the 
vapour,  hot,  and  tepid  battis,  the  swimming  hasiiu,  and  the 
cold  enclosed  baths  of  these  edifices.  They  are  situated  in  a 
garden  very  tastefully  laid  out ;  the  wsklka  fringed  ivitli  curious 
shrubs ;  and  the  whole  somewhat  in  the  style  of  the  baths,  the 
younger  Pliny  had  in  his  pleasure  grounds. 

Hospitals.— The  hoispital  of  Holy  JesuaJ,  usually  called  the 
FVeemen's  hospital,  is  situated  in  the  Manors,  and  was  founded, 
erected,  and  endowed,  at  the  charge  of  the  corporation,  A*  D* 
168L  Its  founders  laid  out  50CX)L  of  its  property  in  purchasing 
the  Walker  estate,  in  the  parish  of  Longbenton.  It  consists  of 
a  master  and  forty-one  brethren,  or  sisterf,  being  freemen,  or 
widows  of  freemen,  or  unmarried  sons  and  daughters  of  free- 
men. Contiguous  to  this  is  the  hospital  of  Mrs.  Anne  Davison, 
founded  in  1725,  for  a  governor  and  five  sisters,  to  be  widows 
of  clergymen,  merchants,  or  freemen  of  Newcastle ;  also  the 
hospital  of  Sir  Walter  Blackett,  for  f^'ix  poor  unmarried  bur- 
gesses, endowed  by  its  founder  with  1200L  ;  and  the  hospital  of 
Thomas  Davison  of  Fcrryhill,  in  the  county  of  Durham,  Esq* 
founded  for  six  unmarried  women,  daughters  or  widows  of  bur- 
gesses. The  edifices  of  these  three  charities  were  built  at  ll»e 
charge  of  the  corporation,  in  1754-,  in  w^hich  year  the  two  last 
were  founded.  By  a  resolution  of  the  common  council  at  the 
guild,  January  the  fourteen,  1811,  it  was  ordered  that  the  sixty 
poor  members  in  these  hospitals  should,  in  future,  receive  twa 

hundred 
•  KepoTt  tlie  ?i\llr, 


KO&TIItJMB£RLAKiI.  6i 

hundred  a  month.  The  Keelman*6  Hospital^  hmit  at  their  own 
charge^  A.  D.  1701,  contains  a  great  hall  and  fifty-two  other 
roomi,  and  cost  upwards  of  2000).  It  is  an  institution  much  iu 
the  nature  of  a  benefit  society.  Iti  revenues  are  levied  upon  the 
earnings  of  its  members.  After  many  ineiFectual  attempts  to 
lay  it  under  wholesome  and  practical  regulations,  an  act  of  par- 
liament was  obtained,  In  1788,  by  which  its  funds  should  in  fu* 
ture  be  managed.  It  was  remarked  by  Dn  Moor,  Bishop  of 
£ly,  "  that  he  had  heard  of,  and  seen  many  hospitals  the 
works  of  rich  men,  but  this  was  the  hrst  he  ever  saw  or  heard 
oft  which  had  been  built  by  the  poor."  * 

Besides  these  should  be  enumerated  the  Lying-in  Hospital, 
fbundedin  Roaemary  Lane  in  1760»  and  liberally  supported  bj 
voluntary  subscription*  And  a  similar  institution  begun  in  the 
fbllowing  year  for  the  poor  lying-in  women  at  tlieir  own  houses, 
in  Newcastle  and  Gateshead.  The  Society  for  the  relief  of  the 
firicndless  poor  was  commenced,  in  1797,  and  has  its  meetings  at 
the  baptist  chapel,  Tuthil*&tair$.  The  Asylum  for  lunatics,  be- 
longing  to  the  counties  of  Durham,  Newcastle,  and  Noi  thum- 
beriand,  is  in  an  airy  and  retired  situation,  and  is  a  handsome 
and  spacious  building.  In  digging  its  foundation  in  1765,  a 
braia  teal,  inscribed  '  Vis  et  Deus  noster',  was  discovered  ;  and 
the  field  in  which  it  is  built  is  remarkable  for  its  deep  intrench- 
inents  and  breastworks,  from  which  it  probably  derived  the  name 
of  the  Warden's  Close,  and  which,  as  we  have  elsewhere  liinted, 
mum  to  have  been  a  part  of  the  ancient  fortifications  of  tlie  town. 

In  Leland's  time,  "  a  square  haul  place  of  the  townc'*  stood 
upon  Sandhill.  Tlte  present  Exchange  and  Town-Court  were  fi- 
Qiahed  in  1658*  Robert  Trollop,  of  York,  was  the  architect  of 
thii  atructure.  He  agreed  to  build  it  for  20001  ;t  but  Bourne 
informed  that  it  cost  above  10,0001.  of  which  Alderman 
Weymouth  gave,  by  will,  12001.  and  the  corporation  contributed 
tlie  rest.  It  has  undergone  many  external  aUerations  since  that 
time^  e^cially  in  having  its  fronts  cased  with  freestone,  and  its 

roof 
*  Boumei  p«  15K  t  Braad  I,  ^0* 


M^  NOBTinnkrBEitr.AyD. 

If  oof  covered  witti  bJue  slate.     In  1785,  and  for  several  reasons 
after,  a  pair  of  crows  built  their  nest  and  reared  tlieir  youngs  ^ 
ariiong  the  spikes  of  a  weatli<?rcoek  upon  the  steeple  of  this 
[building*     It«  lower  story  iig  occupied  by  offices  of  the  town- 
Iclcrky  the  merchants'  coffee-room,  and  the  piazzas  of  the  Ex- 
I  change.     At  tlie  foot  of  the  stair-case  i&  a  bronze  statue  of 
[Charles  the  Second,  in  a  Roman  liabrt.    On  the  second  floor 
the  Town-Couti,  or  Guildhall,  the  mayor's  chamber,  the 
ttcrc!iant*s  court,  the  revenue  office,  and  the  archives  of  the 
*toim.     The  assizes,  quarter-sessions,  and  other  courts  of  the 
town  and  county  of  Newcastle  arc  held  in  the  Guildhall,   the 
I  fl#or  of  which  is  laid  witli  black  and  white  marble,  and  its  walls 
I  omamented  witli  full  length  portraits  of  Charles  tlie  Second 
and  Jiimes  the  Second  ;  as  also  one  of  George  the  Tlnrd,  paint- 
I  ed  by  Ramsay,  in  1T60.     Tlie  merchant's  court  is  over  a  part 
I  of  Thornton's  tlospita) :  it  is  a  spacious  room,  and  has  a  very 
curious  and  noble  chimney-piece,  of  carved  oak.     Tlie  common 
cx>unci1  is   held,  and  the   daily  business  of  the    magistracy  is 
transacted,  in  the  mayor's  chamber ;  in  which  is  to  be  seen  an 
engine,  called  tl»e  branks,  and  concerning  winch  Is  the  follow- 
ing remarkable  anecdote  in  Gardener's  England's  Grievances« 
printed  in  1 655 : — 

"John  Willis,  of  Ipswldi,  upon  his  oath,  said  that  he,  this 
deponent,  was  in  Newcastle,  six  months  ago,  and  there  he  saw 
one  Anne  Bidlestone  drove  through  the  streets,  by  an  officer  of 
the  corporation,  holding  a  rope  in  his  hand,  the  other  end 
fastened  to  an  engine,  called  tlie  branks,  which  is  like  a  crown, 
jt  being  of  iron,  w^hich  was  musled  over  the  head  and  face,  with 
a  great  gap,*  or  tongue,  of  iron,  forced  into  her  mouth,  which 
forced  the  blood  out ;  and  that  is  the  punishment  which  the 
magistrates  do  inflict  upon  chiding  and  scolding  women,  and 
that  he  liatli  often  seen  the  like  done  upon  others*'*  f  This 
punishment  is  still  applied  to  scolds  that  presume  to  exercise 
their  taleat  in  exajninations  or  trials  before  the  magistrates. 

The 
«Lcgc,fffl^.  t  Page  17. 


irORTHUHBERLAHl^.  6$ 

Tile  Mansion-house  was  rebuilt  in  1691>  at  the  cost  of  600(^. 
beudes  the  furniture.     "It  U  a  building,  saja  Bourne,  grand 
aad  stately ;  and,  considering  the  place  it  stands  in,  is  very 
ornamentaL*'     The  saloon  it  furnished  witli  halberts,  and  other 
kinds  of  armour,  and  the  whole  of  the  interior  fitted  up  in  ft 
m&nner  suitable  for  the  dwelling  of  the  chief  magistrate  of  this 
opulent  corporation.     Among  other  allowances,  the  mayor  has 
a  state-coach,  a  bai^,  coals  for  the  tnanision-house,  and  1 30(A, 
a*year  towards  expenees  in  house-keeping.     Great  hospitality 
k  kept  up  in  this  house  through  the  whole  of  the  year,  and  the 
judges  of  assi^  and  their  attendants  are  lodged  and    enter- 
tained in  it,  during  their  sessions ;  at  which,  if  no  criminal  be 
capitally  convicted,  they  are  each  of  them  presented,  by  the 
mayor^  according  to  ancient  custom,  with  a  pair  of  white  gloves. 
It  if  uncertain  at  what  time  the  "  guild  or  fraternity  of  tho 
blened  Trinity**  were  licensed.     They  purchased  the  site  of 
their  present  house  in  1492:  and  in  1505  ordered  that  a  haJl» 
chapel*  and  lodgings  for  their  poor  brethren,  should  be  erected 
upon  it  at  their  common  expence.     Some  privileges  were  pro* 
bably  granted  them  in  1530,  for  under  that  year,  in  their  book 
of  expenees,  are  these  entries ;  "for  ray  lorde  admyrall  seyll, 
toftj  six  shillings  and  eight-pence ;  for  sygnet  and  prevye  seyll^ 
four  pounds  six  shillings  and  eight-pence ;  to  kynge's  grayce 
for  tiie  great  seayll,  eight  pounds  two  shillings."     They  had 
diaiters  granted  them  by  Henry  the  Eighth,  Queen  Elizabeth^ 
Jttiies  the  Firsts  Charles  the  Second,  and  James  the  Second. 
Tlie  charter  pf  Henry  the  Eighth  represents  them  as  incorpo- 
nted  for  the  encouragement  of  the  art  of  navigation,  and  with 
liceme  to  build  and  embattle  two  towers,  one  at  the  mouth  of 
the  haven  of  Tyne,  the  other  on  the  adjoining  hill,  in  which 
lights  were  to  be  kept  every  night,  and  fourpence  to  be  paid  to 
them  by  ev^ry  foreign  ship,  and  twopence  by  every  English 
•h^  that  entered  the  port.     The  other  charters,  though  they 
altered  the  private  regulationa  of  the  society,  concerning  the 
Vol.  XIL  F  choice 


66  '     ~  NORtHUMBEHLAKD. 

choice  of  a  master,  the  nomber  of  their  irardens,  &c.  and  en- 
larged their  marine  jurisdiction,  in  no  degree  infringed  upon  the 
main  intentions  of  the  first.  Within  the  circuit  of  their  pre- 
mises they  have  a  free  school,  erected  in  1712,  for  the  instruc- 
tion of  the  children  of  their  brethren  in  writing  and  mathe- 
matics, llieir  chapel  was  fitted  up  in  its  present  neat  style- in 
1634.  They  have  rooms  for  eight  poor  brethren,  and  twelve 
widows,  who,  with  several  other  of  their  own  poor,  have  com- 
fortable  allowances  from  their  funds. 

The  first  account  we  have  found  of  a  *  cockettum,*  or  cus- 
tom-house, in  this  town,  is  in  1*281,  when  a  duty  of  six  shillings 
and  eightpence  was  charged  upon  ^500  wooled  skins ;  the  same 
sum  upon  a  sack  of  wool ;  and  thirteen  shillings  and  four  pence 
upon  a  last  of  leather.*  Hoberi  HhodeSt  a  great  benefactor  to 
tlie  churches  of  Newcastle,  was  appointed  to  tlie  office  of 
**  countrouller  de«  custumes  et  subsidies  le  roi  en  le  port  de 
Novel  Castell  eur  Tyne/'  in  M'4-O.t  In  Queen  Elizabeth's 
time  **  the  customer  here  had  a  fee  of  sixteen  poundj^  thirteen 
shillings  and  fourpence,  and  a  reward  of  twenty-six  poundjb 
thirteen  shillings  and  fourpencr  per  annum;  the  controler,  fee 
four  pounds,  reward  ten  pounds ;  weighters,  four  pounds,  re- 
ward among  them,  four  pounds.^ 

There  was  an  act  of  parliament,  fourteenll^  George  the  Third, 
to  enable  Dr*  Fawcet,  Vicar  of  Newcastle,  to  grant  a  lease  of  a 
part  of  the  vicarage  garden,  for  999  years,  and  on  a  rent  of 
twenty  pounds  a  year,  for  the  purpose  of  building  a  Home  ofAs* 
nembly  upon.  The  structure  was  raised  from  a  design  and  under 
the  direction  of  Mr,  Newton,  architect,  in  1776,  and  cost  6701 K 
The  rooms  ore  said  to  be  the  most  elegant  and  commodious  of 
the  kind  of  any  in  the  kingdom,  except  those  in  Bath*  There 
is  a  large  and  very  good  picture  of  Sir  John  Falstaff  and  Mrs. 
Ford,  by  Downman,  in  the  tea-room.     Part  of  the  lower  rooms 

arc 
*  Maitox's  HiAt.  of  the  Excln  ]>.  634.  t  Bourne^  p.  Sin 

;  IVck's  Desitlrtata  Cirriosa^  VoL  L  lib,  ii*  anno  173?. 


are  \tted  as  a  coffee-house,  which  is  furnished  with  a  Ubrar^'^ 
cottbting  of  works  on  political  economy,  and  other  gubjecti 
bie  to  the  situationi 
The  Literary  and  Philosophical  Society  of  Newcastle  was  in- 
•tituted  in  1793»  Its  tirst  meetings  were  in  a  room  in  8t.  Ni- 
cholas' churchyard-  While  it  propofied  the  discussion  of  the 
several  branches  of  polite  hterature,  its  Jeading  objects  appear 
to  have  been  the  investigation  of  the  situation  and  properties  of 
the  mineral  productions  of  this  neighbourhood,^  atid  the  elucida- 
tion of  the  sciences  applicable  to  commerce.  Its  hbrary  wai 
eommenced  in  1795>  and  three  years  after  the  whole  of  its  pro- 
perty was  removed  to  the  old  assembly  rooms  in  the  Groat 
Market,  of  which  the  society  procured  a  lease.  It  is  governed 
by  a  president,  four  vice-presidents,  two  secretaries,  and  eight 
comndttee-men,  all  of  whom  are  annually  chosen  out  of  its 
ordinary  members^  and  vested  witli  the  management  of  its  fundb 
Out  of  its  honorary  members  four  are  aUowed  the  priviJeges  of 
ordtnar)'  ones.  Ladies  are  admitted  to  the  use  of  the  library  » 
bat  cannot  attend  general  meetings,  or  vote  in  the  choice  of 
iiienil>eT8.  The  annual  payment  to  it  is  a  guinea,  and  its  re- 
ireoues  are  upwards  of  5251.  a  year.  In  1802,  a  kindred  branch, 
called  the  New  Institution^  was  engrafted  upon  it,  and  a  part 
of  its  funds  appropriated  to  the  maintenance  of  that  meretorious 
estidilishment^  which  consists  of  a  permanent  lectureship  on  the 
peverul  branches  of  natural  and  experimental  philosophy,  che- 
mistry, flrc;  and  for  which  a  large  and  very  valuable  apparatus 
luis  been  purchased* 

The  old  Play-Home  was  built  in  1T4B,  upon  a  part  of  the 
I  of  St,  Bartholomew's  churchy  and  has  lately  been  occupied 
m  a  concert-room,  The  Theatre  Royal  originated  at  the  time 
that  MosJey  and  Dean  Streets  ^  ere  buiJt,  nnd  wa^  opened  by  the 
authority  of  an  act  of  parliament  in  17S8,  It  was  built  by  Mr. 
phenson,  and  is  estcremed  a  handtiome  and  commodious  edi- 
ce,  by  tlie  lovers  of  the  drama. 
Amidst  the  broils  and  insecurity  of  the  feudal  ages,  many  of 
F  2  the 


6i  NORTHUlilBERLAKD. 

the  Korthumbrian  barons  foimd  it  necessary  to  have  i 
within  the  strong  walb  of  Kewca«tJe.    Few  vestiges,  bcfwever^ 
remain  at  present  to  point  out  their  situatton  Of  t]i£trgraiidear«i 
The  Earl  of  NorthumherlantPi  haiae  was  in  the  Cloie.     It  i 
that,  says  Bourne,  which  has  aa  its  entrance  a  great  ga^  i 
a  large  round  ball  of  atone  ;  and  in  Uie  lower  part  of  it,  towi 
the  river,  shews  manifest  signs  of  antiquity.    Botbeck  Hall,  a 
it  was  called  af^r  Ralph  Nevil  was  created   an  eari,    We$i* 
.moreland  Pkce^  is  situate  in  We^tgate  Street,  nearly  < 
CoUingwood  Street     l*hough  the  building  upon  its  dte 
ancle Dt  appearancei  nothing  of  the  original  stnictore  i 
except  a  remarkable  wall,  about  eight  feet  broad,  which  ] 
the  garden.  This  wall  has  been  converted  into  a  terrace :  under | 
it  is  a  vaulted  passage,  made  of  very  old  bricks^,  and  leading  w? 
Nevil  Tower.     Lord  Scrape  had  a  house  in  Pilgrim  Street.  The 
Scotch  Arms^  near  Nun  Gate,  is  traditionally  held  to  have  been 
the  lodgings  of  the  kings  and  nobility  of  Scotland,  in  ttmei  of 
truce  with  England.     ''It  ia  an  ancient  building,  with  a  bu^ 
gate,  and  has  been  a  piece  of  stately  workmanship.**^  There  ^ 
an  inn  in  Pilgrim  Street^  at  which  the  devotees,  in  their  vi 
to  the  shrine  of  St.  Mary,  at  Jesmond,  are  said  to  have  lodged*^ 
Near  the  head  of  tliis  street  is  also  a  noble  mansion,  bulk  In 
1 580,  by  Robert  Anderson,  out  of  the  ofBces,  and  nearly  upOflli 
the  site  of  the  Franciscan  Priory.     V\' e  take  it  to  have  been  i 
kinsman  of  dm  gentleman,  who  is  recorded  to  have  dropped 
his  ring  over  Newcastle  bridge,  and  whose  servant  purchased  \ 
aalmon  some  short  time  after,  in  which  the  same  ring 
found,  f     This  circumstance  happened  about  1559.     The  ring 
is  still  in  this  family  of  Andersons,  and  has  a  fish  engraven 
under  the  signet,  the  stone   of  which,  Mr.  Brand  supposed  to 
be  a  Roman  antique.     Sir  Francis    Anderson,    Knight,  con* 
veyed  this  mansion,  in  1675,  to  Sir  William  Blackett,  of  Mal- 

fen, 
•  Bourne,  p.  51. 

tSe«  a  Minitar  tak  in  Littl«bar>  s  Hcroditttf,  Vol,  I.  p,  tTti  and  n 
CollicfB  Diclioaar>'i  iioder  Kentif em. 


I 


HORTHUMBERLAND.  69 

fen.  Baronet,  who  added  the  two  wings  to  it.  It  came  into 
the  possession  of  Sir  Walter  Blackett  by  his  marriage  wiUi 
the  grand-daughter  of  Sir  William,  and  in  17SS  was  sold  to 
Mr.  George  Anderson^  whose  son.  Major  Anderson,  by  reason 
of  its  being  at  two  distant  periods  in  the  possession  of  two  fami- 
lies of  the  same  name,  has  styled  it  Anderson  Place*  Grey 
calla  it  a  princely  building ;  and  **  indeed,*'  gays  Bourne,  '*  it 
»  no  less  than  very  stately  and  magnificent,  being  supposed 
the  most  so  of  any  house  in  the  whole  kingdom,  within  a 
walled  town.  It  is  surrounded  by  a  vast  quantity  of  ground  ; 
thftt  part  of  it  which  faces  the  street  is  thrown  into  walks  and 
gran  plats,  beautified  with  images,  and  beset  with  trees,  which 
i£>rd  a  very  pleasing  shade  r  tlie  other  part  of  the  ground,  on 
the  west  side  of  it,  is  all  a  garden,  exceedingly  neat  and  curious, 
adorned  with  many  and  the  most  beautiful  statues^  and  se- 
veral other  cariosities."  The  statues  have  been  removed ;  but 
the  rest  of  this  description  is  still,  in  a  measure,  applicable  to 
the  place*  A  subterraneous  passage,  pointing  towards  the 
ManorSf  was  discovered  iji  the  garden  here  a  few  years  since, 
and  ooillf  of  Edward  the  Third  and  Henry  the  Fourtli  taken  out 
of  it.  The  parents  of  Durant,  the  colleague  of  Cuthbert  Syden- 
ham •  in  the  lectureship  of  St.  Nicholas,  were  buried  in  the 
garden  here,  as  appears  from  a  marble  tombstone  remaining 
10  the  stable-yard*  This  house  also  is  remarkable  for  being 
the  head-quarters  of  General  Levin  during  the  captivity  of 
King  Charles  in  Newcastle.  That  monarch  is  said  to  have 
entered  the  town  guarded  by  300  Scottish  horsemen,  those  near 
hhn  bare-h«aded.  He  passed  throLigh  a  lane  of  pikes  and 
muskets  from  Gateshead  to  the  general's  quarters.  He  wrt<t 
caressed  with  bonefires,  peals  of  ordnance,  and  other  marks  of 
rejotctng:  and,  according  to  his  own  confession,  was  no  where 
treated  with  more  honour  than  here.  Himinelf  and  train  had 
liberty  to  go  abroad  every  day,  and  to  play  at  ^olf  in  the  Shield 
Field^  without  the  walls,  till  a  design  for  hm  i^cape  was  dis- 
F  S  covered, 

•  Ser  Wood'f  Afh^ttir.  VM.  Up   j:o. 


70  yORTHUMBEHLAKD. 

covered,  which  occasioned  stricter  orders  to  be  sent  down 
respecting  his  person.*  There  is  a  traditional  account,  that 
he  attempted  his  escape  by  a  fiub terraneous  passage  from  a 
cellar  in  this  house  to  the  Lortburn,  but  that  he  could  not 
effect  the  opening  of  an  iron  door  at  the  outlet  of  this  pa 
but  tales  respecting  these  under-ground  ways  are  seldom 
listened  to.  Soon  after  the  king's  arrival  at  Newcastle, 
Scotch  minister  preached  very  boldly  before  him  ;  and  wheii" 
hk  semion  was  done,  called  for  the  lifly-second  psalm,  whic 
begins — 

Why  dost  thoitt  tyrant^  booAl  lliyself, 
Tliy  wicked  wurk»  to  praise  ? 

Whereupon  his  majesty  stood  up,  and  called  for  tlie  fifty-six 
pBalm,  which  begins — 

Have  mercy,  Lord,  on  me,  I  pray. 
For  men  would  roc  devour. 

The  people  waved  the  minister's  psalm,  and  sung  that  whicli 
the  king  called  for,f  The  king  liaviiig  an  antipathy  to  tobacco, 
was  much  disturbed  by  their  bold  and  continual  smoking  in  bis 
presence.^  When  the  news  reached  him  of  the  ill  success  of 
hfsarmy  in  Scotland  he  took  no  notice  of  it»  but  continued  in 
t  game  of  chess,  as  cheerful  as  before. 

From  the  time  of  William  Rufus  to  the  reign  of  King  Jame 
th»!»  town  was  constantly  gathering  an  accumulation  of  power. 
Rufus  gave  to  its  inhabitants 

^rouptl  and  goJd  ful  great  to  spend, 


To  bnllde  it  w<^ll,  and  wall  it  all  *iboute, 
AitdfruunehUed  theim  to  pay  a/m-  rcnU  oat 

Henry  the  First  and  his  successor  exempted  it  from  various 
dens ;  and  John,  after  raising  its  *  antient  fee  ferm'  from  fifty 

*^>  4 

•  Bourne,  p.  fS5.     Brand,  VoK  IL  p.  471. 

t  Wliiilock's  Memoit»>,  p,  256, 
t  iJotirnp,  ut  sup.     Burnett*!  Hume  of  Hamikoo,  p»  306. 


■        m\\ 


KORTHUMBERLAKD.  7) 

to  doe  hundred  pounds  a  year,  enlarged  itf  privileges*     Its  first 

officers  werebailif&»  to  whom  a  mayor  wiis  added  in  1251.     In 

1400  tt  was  consLituted  a  county  of  itself,  and  the  direction  of 

it  entrusted  to  Roger  Thornton,  mayor,  William  RedmaxshalJ, 

itf  first  sheriff,  and,  instead  of  the  four  bailiffs,  six  aldermen, 

who  were  vested  with  the  power  of  justices  of  the  peace.     A 

recorder,  eight  ch amber liiintj,  two  coroners,  a  sword-bearer,  a 

common -clerk^  and   eight  Serjeants  of  mace,    were  added  in 

151 Q-     The  aldermen  were  increased  to  ten  in  1557,  and  the 

twenty -four  electors,  who  were  to  be  equally  chosen  Irom  the 

twelve  crafts  of  the  town,  were  made  a  common-council.     The 

great  charter  of  Elizabeth  ordains,  that  the  mayor,    the  ten 

aldermen,  and  recorder,  should  be  jointly  and  severally  keepers 

of  the  peace  within  the  town  ;  and  that  the  common^council 

should  consist  of  the  mayor,  aldermen,  and  twenty-four  other 

burgesses.     It  was,  however,  the  charter  of  James  that  finally 

and  solidly  established  to  this  opulent  body  its  large  immunities: 

Uiat  fully  defined  the  time  and  manner  of  electing  Its  mayor, 

sheriff,  chamberlains,  &c,  the  duration  and  offices  of  electors 

ind  fddermen ;   and  that  clearly  pointed  out  the  nature  and 

extent  of  the  jurisdiction   of  its  magistrates,  the  privileges  of 

the  freemen,  and  the  liberties  of  Uxv  town.     This  borough  has 

cofitinued  to  send  iwo  fuembers  to  parUamctU  since  the  year 

1283,  except  in  the  sixth  and  eifjhth  years  of  Edward   the 

Second,  and  first  of  Edward  the  Third,  when  the  burgessei; 

omitted  to  send  the  representatives,  on  account  of  the  perilous 

litoaCion  tliey  were  placed  in  by  the   Scots.     Its  markets  are  on  . 

Tuesdays  and  Saturdays;  and  its  annual ^iV^  August  twelfth, 

ober  twenty-ninth,  and  November  twenty-secoud,  the  last 

which  only  continues  one  day,  and  the  two  other  nine  days* 

Iti  annual  revenues,    in   1809,    amounted  to  35,5011.  58.  2d. 

L«rge  sums  have  been  expended  in   widening  the  streets,  and 

wrious  other  improvements  in  the  town*    A  butcher-market,  on 

ivery  handsome  and  convenient  plan,  has  lately  been  finished 

tt  the  expence  of  this  body ;  and  we  may  fairly  prophecy,  that 

F  4  the 


*n  HOKTHUMBIBLAKD. 

the  liberal  md  judicioua  management  of  their  purse  mJH  mqou 
place  Newcastle  on  a  level,  in  convenience,  in  elegance,  and. 
commercial  advantages,  with  the  first  towns  of  the  Briti 
empire* 

Elswick,  in  the  parish  of  St.  John,  Newcastle,  was  one 
of  the  posftessions  of  Tynemonth  prior)*  There  were  collieriet 
at  Hejgrove,  Westfeld^  and  Gallowflat,  near  Elswick,  ia 
ISM.*  Soon  after  the  reformation,  it  was  purchased  by  WO- 
liam  Jenninson,  Esq.  in  whose  family  it  continued  till  the  be- 
ginning of  the  last  century,  when  it  was  sold  to  the  grandfather 
of  its  present  possee^or,  John  Hodgson,  Esq.  who  has  lately 
rebuilt  the  house  on  a  large  and  elegant  plan.  Its  site  is  higk 
and  bokl,  and  the  prospect  from  it,  over  the  busy  scene  of  the 
Tyne  and  the  vale  of  Ravensworth,  renders  it  a  very  interesting 
situation^  An  exten&ive  laboratory  for  coperas  was  commenced 
on  this  estate  in  1808:  tlic  apparatus  for  tlie  preparation  of 
prusiate  of  iron  was  removed  from  this  neighbourhood,  in  IS  10, 
to  the  south  side  of  the  river,  at  Heworth  Shore. 

Fenham,  in  this  parish,  belonged  to  the  Knights  Templarig 
and,  with  the  rest  of  ttieir  property  was  granted  by  parlia»< 
ment,  in  i324|  to  the  Knights  Hospitallers  of  St.  John  of 
Jerusalem.  It  was  annexed  to  the  crown  at  the  dissolution^ 
but  afterwards  came  to  the  Riddels  of  Swinburne  Castle. 
Thomas  Riddel  obtmioed  an  act  of  parliament  to  sell  it  to  Jahn 
Ord,  attorney-at'law,  in  Newcastle.  The  mines j  in  this  sale, 
were  reserved  ;  but,  in  1 770,  sold  to  the  Orda,  in  which  family 
it  still  continues.  From  its  east  Iront  is  a  6ne  open  prospect 
of  the  river  Tyne»  to  the  haven  of  Shields,  and  the  ruins  of 
Tynemouth  priory- 

Benwell,  the  Cofidercum  of  the  Notltiat  and  the  station  of 
the  Ala  Astorum,  is  situated  on  an  eminence,  near  two  mil^ 
west  of  Newcastle.  A  stone  was  discovered  here,  in  166% 
which  Baxter  supposes  to  have  been  inscribed  in  the  consul- 
ship of  Senicio  and  Pakna ;  but  Horsley  says,f  ^*  I  take  it  to 

have 
•  Tinni.  Cliartulaiyi  fol.  163.     BmDd.  t  Brit,  Rom.  21?. 


4 

I 


NORTnUMBlRLAKD.  7S 

have  been  erected  to  the  honour  of  the  emperort  Marcus  Aure- 
liuft  and  Licius  Verus,  upon  occasion  of  some  victory  they  had 
gained  over  the  Northern  Britonfl,  by  Calpurnius  Agricola, 
their  legate,  in  which  thli  Felix  Seniclo  had  the  command  of 
the  first  wing  of  the  Asti."  The  original  is  partly  obliterated.* 
Sereral  other  inscriptions  have  been  found  here,  the  most  re- 
oarkable  of  which  is  a  fine  altar,  dedicated  to  Jupiter  Dolt* 
chentiA,  a  deity  worshipped  by  miners.f  It  was  lately  pur- 
chased, with  the  rest  of  Mr.  Brand's  collection  of  Roman  an* 
tiqujttes,  by  the  Rev,  Charles  Thorpe,  and  is  at  pretent  in  the 
lodl  of  the  rectory  of  Ryton.  The  inscription^  though  partly 
injured,  is  in  the  same  state  as  it  was  in  Horsley's  time,  who 
read  it  in  ihls  manner : — 


J4»vt  Optimo  maiximo  Dulkheno  et  uuminbui  AiigitKti  pro  statute  impe* 
mmtom  Gssarii  Titi  JElii  Hadriani  Antonini  Augiuti  Pil  patri«  patrae  et 
tef;t<siiii  secnnds  Auguste  Marcus  Libumiiis  Froiito  centuHo  Icgtooii  ejtu* 

SiBce  Horsley's  time,  coins  of  Trajan,  Hadrian,  and  several 

otlier  emperors,  have  been  found  here ;  five  inscriptions,  but 

none  of  them  of  much  interest;  a  great  conduit,  made  of  large 

liewn  atones  ;    also,  in  1752,  a  hypocaustum,  about  300  yards 

aouth-west  of  the  station,  and  of  which  an  accurate  drawing, 

taken  at  the  time  by  Robert  Shaftoe,  Esq.  is  given  in  Mr* 

Brand's  History  of  Newcastle,}:     The  fine  urn  in  the  library  at 

Durham  came  from  hence.    The  foundations  of  an  exploratory 

tower  were  found  opposite  the  second  milestone.     An  iron  rail- 

wty  was  made  through  the  north  side  of  the  station  in  181 0» 

which 

•  Baxter's  reading :— Victoria  qiiind*?cimap  cohortit  Gilbram  feccntnt 
trjii^  Konto  ^enodone  eomnl^,  feU\  aU  L  Afltomm  multii  prwilta. 
Hon1f^*t  reading : — Victortsp  Au^^tittoruin  nosiromm  fecit  nepoi  So«i} 
ItiecuMin  consulis  Felix  al^  primo!  A^tortun  pi  j^fectus, 

t  Vide  Reinesii  Symt.  fuse.  Ant.  p.  4iiftm. 

t  Vol*  L  p,  607.  Bovme,  p.  Hi.  coibi.  WaUis,  Val.  I*  p«  17f, 
FhU.  Tran.  No.  130. 


7*  horthumeehlaku* 

which  laid  bare  a  part  of  its  wall«»  and  the  fouiidationi  of  ««- 
▼era!  buildings. 

A  coal  mine,  near  this  place,  took  fire  at  a  candle,  in  the 
beginning  of  last  century,  and  burned  near  thirty  yeanu  Its 
progress  was  small  at  first ;  but  it  afterguards  acquired  so  great 
fitretigth,  a5  to  ^spread  into  the  Fenham  grounds^  and  burst  out 
in  the  manner  of  a  volcano,  in  near  twenty  places.  It  covered 
the  furze  in  its  way  with  flowers  of  sulphur,  and  cast  up  pieces 
of  sal-ammoniac  six  inches  broad* 

Jn  1272  Richard  de  Ben  well  held  one  moiety  of  the  villa 
of  Benwell,  and  Robert  de  Whitchester  and  Henry  Dtlaval 
the  othi^r,  by  sendee  of  each  a  fourth  part  of  a  knight's  fee, 
of  the  barony  of  Bolbeck*  The  Delavals  had  possessions  here 
in  1435.  "  The  old  tower  of  Benwell  was  the  place  where  the 
prior  of  Tynemouth  had  his  summer's  residence,  and  the  cha- 
pel which  Mr.  Shaftoe  opens  for  the  good  of  the  people  of  his 
village,  was  the  prioHs  domestic  chapel.'**  The  Shaftoes  here 
were  a  branch  of  the  Bavington  family.  Their  mansion  was 
joined  to  the  old  tower,  but  the  whole  edifice  has  been  several 
years  untenanted,  and  is  now  in  ruins.  The  register  of  the' 
chapel  ends  in  1742;  its  Ibondations  have  been  raised;  and 
nothing  remains  to  point  out  its  site,  except  a  few  grave* 
stones, 

With  nettles  skirted,  and  with  moss  o'crgrown. 

The  village  contains  a  few  neat  houses ;  the  ground  about  it  ia 
very  fertile ;  and  the  view  from  it,  over  the  island  called  the 
King's  Meadows,f  to  Axweli  Park,  and  the  woods  of  Gibside, 
is  truly  charming. 
Jesmono,  about  two  miles  north-east  of  Newcastle,  and  in 

the 

*  fiournc;  p.  Its. 
f  A  note  written  in  tlie  time  of  the  crnnmonwcalth,  in  an  inteiiea? ed 
copy  of  Grey's  Choro^rrapiiia,  and  in  the  Library  at  Hebburn  Hall,  in  the 
county  of  Durham,  says,  this  island  was  called  the  Kin^^'s  Meadow.s,  be* 
raiijc  hay  was  procured  vpon  it  for  the  kin^s  hot^ea,  when  lie  cam*  to 
Newcastle. 


NORTHUMBERLAND*  74 

the  parish  of  $L  Andrews^  k  said  to  have  derived  its  naiiM! 
from  a  rood  tliat  stood  upon  a  mound  of  earth  at  the  entrance 
ci*  Uie  village.  It  uppertained  to  the  barony  of  Gaugy,  in  the 
time  of  Henry  the  Third.  One  Hilton  was  possessed  of  a  third 
part  of  it  in  1368;  and  in  1383,  Adam  de  Atijol,  who  founded 
the  chantry  of  Holy  Trinity,  in  which,  himself  and  wife  were 
buried^  in  St«  Andrew's  church,  resided  in  this  vilhtge*  A  third 
part  of  the  manor  of  Jessemuth,  and  of  the  advowson  of  the 
church  there,  belonged  to  John  Styneley  in  the  reign  of  Rich- 
ard tJie  Second**  Sir  Robert  Stotte  came  to  live*  here  in 
]65S»  and  his  mansion  to  this  day^  is  called  Stotte's  HaU»  Sir 
Francis  Anderson,  Knight,  and  others,  sold  possessions  here 

163B,  to  WiUiam  Coulson,  Esq.  whose  descendants  resided 
Jenmmd  House^  till  it  was  sold  In  1 809,  to  Jolm  Anderson, 

.  of  Newcastle.  Tlie  //o(y  Well  of  Jesmund,  was  anciently 
in  liigh  estimation,  and  hither  **  witli  great  confluence  and  de- 
votion, people  came  from  aJl  parts  of  this  ietund,  to  the  shrine 
of  the  Virgin  Mary.'*f  The  Chapel  and  Hmpiial^  with  their 
povessions,  were  granted  by  Edward  the  Sixth,  to  tlie  cor- 
pmLion  o£  Newcastle,  who  sold  them  to  Sir  Robert  Brandling, 
The  chapel  had  been  long  occupied  as  a  barn  and  a  stable 
and  the  hospital  has  been  rebuilt,  and  converted  into  a  dweU 
iing  house. 

HcATOK  Hall,  in  the  parish  of  All-Saints,  Newcastle,  and 
delightfolly  situated  upon  the  steep  and  woody  banks  of  Onse* 
bum,  is  the  seat  of  Matthew  White  Ridley,  Esq*  eldest  son  of 
Sir  Matthew  White  Ridley,  Bart*  whose  father,  from  designs 

nished  by  Mr.  Newton,  architect,  gave  the  building  it<  present 
nt  appearance,  by  adding  the  two  towers,  and  facing  the 
ont  with  stone.     This  house  was  byilt  in  171*^,  about  which 
time  the  ^mily  had  several  extensive  collieries  in  its  neighbour- 
hood. 

•  Iawsoh^s  M.S*  U  7,    ^*  Jaeoba  que  fnii  uxor  Joliumb  Stryndlyn  obtit 
*eittU&c,"    £^li€ati,am*    Ric.  e.    Fraud,  I.  1 97. 
f  Grey^  Cbor.  trb.  viii* 


96  KORTHUMBERLAKD. 

hood.*  There  was  a  chapel  here  at  which  Edward  the  Fir«t 
attended  to  hear  a  idshop  of  boys  perform  the  vespers  of  St* 
Nicholas.f  Tradition  relates  that  King  John  made  this  one  of 
the  places  of  his  retreat.  Robert  de  Gaugy  was  greatly  in  the 
confidence  of  thi^  monarch,  and  this  village  was  held  of  his 
barony*  Ruins  of  an  old  building,  fortified  on  the  north,  stilJ 
carry  the  name  of  King  John*s  Palace,  The  manor  of  Heaton 
belonged  to  the  Bahhingtons  of  Hamham  for  many  years ;  and 
wa«  the  ieat  of  Sir  Henry  Bnbhington  in  1628.  A  descendant 
of  this  family,  in  a  low  situation,  recovered  a  share  of  Heaton 
colliery  in  1796, 

Near  Heaton,  on  an  elevated  situation,  Is  the  ancient  vill 
of  BvKER,  which  with  its  park,  was  held  hy  Nicholas  de  Biker,' 
in  grand  serjeancyt  in  1234.     Robert  de  Biker  dledt  seized 
of  two  parts  of  Byker  and  Pampedon,  fifteenth  of  Edward  the 
First.     The  Fercys  had  it  in  Henry  the  Sixth's  time,  and  Ed- 
ward tlie  Fourth  granted  it  to  his  brother  Clarence.     Sir  Ralph 
Lawaon  held  it  in  I567»  and  it  still  continues  in  the  same 
mily.     The  Roman  wall  passed  on  the  north  side  of  this  pj 
The  mock  ruins  were  built  as  ornamental  objects  from  Heat 
HaU*  The  free-stone  quarries  here,  have  furnished  immense  quan 
titles  of  ashlars  to  Neipcastle,  and  the  neighbouring  collieries. 

GospoRTH  parish  formerly  contained  two  chapels,  subject 
to  St,  Nicholas,  in  Newcastle.  North  Gasforth  chapel  began 
to  be  disused  in  the  early  part  of  last  century,  and  no  vestige 
at  present  remains  of  it,  but  a  few  grave  stones  in  its  burial 
ground.  The  village  and  b<irony  were  held  of  the  crown,  by 
the  ancient  family  of  Surtees,  from  the  time  of  Henry  the  First, 
to  the  latter  end  of  the  reign  of  Henry  the  Sixth4  At^erwards 
jt  came  to  the  Brandlings.  There  are  no  remains  of  this  vil- 
lage.    Smith  Ga^rth  chapel  was  in  existence  in  Henry  the 

Second's 
•  Univ.  Mftgt2«  VoK  LXXXt  p.  8t.     Bourne,  p.  114. 
♦  Wardrobe,  Accmint  of  the  twenty-eigbtJi  ot  Edward  the  First. 
I  Twta  Jc  Ncvilt,  p,  39f,    Walli*,  Vol.  Ih  p.  t6B. 


iton 

ker,!™ 

zed 

the 

Ed- 
talph^ 
lefa*^ 
,hu^ 


KORTHXTMBEALAKD.  ?? 

Second's  time*  It  has  been  lately  rebuilt ;  and  is  remarkablo 
for  nothing  but  its  neatness.  Though  the  Te«U  de  Nevill  de- 
scribes South  Gosforth  as  in  the  possession  of  the  Surtees  family, 
yet  firoin  the  &ame  record,  and  other  good  authority,  it  appears 
to  have  been  a  member  of  the  barony  of  Whalton,  of  which  it 
was  held  in  the  time  of  Henry  tlie  Thirds  by  Otwel  Lisle,  by 
ward  serrice.*  The  Lisles  obtained  it  by  marriage,  of  Robert 
Xifile  to  the  daughter  of  Richard  Caovil,  about  the  year  1 170. 
This  manor,  and  that  of  Coxlodge,  belonged  to  the  Lisles  of  Fel* 
ton,  ID  1567;  in  which  year  North  Gosforth,  among  other  pos- 
iesnone,  belonged  to  Robert  Brandling,  Esq.  who  was  created  a 
knight  banneret,  after  the  battle  of  M usselburg.f  This  family 
resided  at  Alnwick  Abbey  soon  after  the  dissolution,  and  after- 
wards at  Felling  Hally  in  the  county  of  Durham.  Gosforth 
Hotise,  the  seat  of  C.  J.  Brandling,  Esq.  M,  P*  was  built  by 
Iiti  father,  from  designs  by  Pain.  Among  the  paintings  her€^ 
•re  several  family  portraitis,  and  a  fine  portrait  of  Rembrandt  by 
himself.  Since  tlie  building  of  this  mansion  the  grounds  around 
ire  been  circled  with  a  broad  girdle  of  wood,  and  their  uni* 
features  broken  with  pbntations  and  slieets  of  water. 

Cramlingtox  is  a  village  pleasantly  situated  on  a  rising 
ground.  In  itjs  chapel  is  a  marble  slab,  inscribed  ••  Orate  pro 
antma,  Thoniae  Lavv.-on,  generosi  qui  obiit  2':'  die  mensis  Julii, 
A.  B,  1469.  Cujus  animus  propietur  Deus."  Adam  Ribaud, 
held  six  ox  gangs  here  of  the  barony  of  Gaugy  ;|  and  the  place 
bae  had  for  tenants  the  families  of  Trewycke,  Ribblesworth^ 
Hftrbottle,  Hall,  and  Cramlington,  which  last,  from  *mall  be* 
ginnings,  had  amassed  considerable  possessions  heie,  in  1385. 
The  Lawsons  obtained  this  pJace  by  marriage  in  the  reign  of 
Henry  the  Sixth,  and  have  been  possessors  of  it  ever  since. 

The  parish  Church  of  Long  Benton  is  dedicated  to  St*  Bar- 
tholomew, and,  with  certain  lands  in  this  pari«;h,  was  given  by 
Sir  Philip  Somervilie,  of  Wickmore,  in  Staffordshire,  to  Baliol 

College, 

•  ^mk^t  K«wc.  Vol,  L  p.  3«f.  f  HolL  Chron.  Vol  H,  p.  991. 

t  Teit*  de  NevBI,  p.  387. 


t*  NORTHUMBERLAND, 

College,  in  Oxfordi  for  the  mEuntenance  of  six  sehokrs.  Tti« 
Benton  Magna,  South  KiLllngwonh,  Walker,  and  the  two 
Weetslctg,  were  manors  of  Roger  de  Merlay,  Baron  of  Mor- 
peth^  from  whom  they  came  by  regular  descent  to  the  prefient 
Earl  of  Carligle,  who  sold  them,  in  1 800,  to  the  Brandlings  of 
Gosforth,  and  Brow^as  of  Long  Benton,  The  Griffiths  had  pos- 
sessions here  in  1356  ;  and  hulf  the  ville  belonged  to  the  Thorn- 
tons of  Nether  Witteo,  in  1429.  The  bas&h  dike  in  Walker 
colliery,  in  tins  parish,  is  pure  stone  in  its  centre,  and  on  each 
side  gradually  falls  into  carbonated  coaL 

Little  Bekton,  or  Benton  Parva,  in  Henry  the  Third'* 
time,  was  held  under  the  baronies  of  Heron  and  Heppeh     Idt^^d 
1282,  it  was  tlio  Lordship  of  Jeffry  Scrope,  of  Masham,  in^B 
Yorkshire,  one  of  whose  family  founded  the  chantry  of  the  Vir- 
gin Mary,  in  Long  Benton  church*     It  afterwards  belonged  to 
«vHalph,   Lord  Greystoke,  and   in  Henry  the  Sixth's  reign  to 
William  Fitz-Hugh.    Thomas  Bigge,  Esq.  by  his  marriage  with 
a  co-hdreas  of  John  Hindmarsh,  Esq*  was  in  possesaton  of 
in  1730,  and  the  two  mansion  houses  here  are  the  propertjj*i 
this  family. 

Wallsend,  the  Segedunum  of  the  Romans,  was  the  station  of 
the  first  cohort  of  the  Lergi,  and  has  its  modem  name  from 
tlie  great  stone  barrier  terminating  here.  The  fort  has  been 
about  six  chains  square,  and  the  field  in  which  it  stands  is  called 
the  Well^  or  the  Wall-Laws,  A  wall  has  led  from  the  south 
end  of  its  eastern  rampart  to  the  Tyne,  on  tlie  brink  of  which 
heaps  of  ruins  are  still  discernable.  "  The  south  rampart," 
says  Horsley,  **  has  run  along  the  brow  of  the  hill,  or  at  the 
head  of  the  descent  towards  the  river ;  and  the  out-buildings  or 
town  (as  appears  by  the  hillocks  of  stones  and  rubbish)  has 
•tood  upon  the  descent  open  to  the  southern  sun,  and  reached  to 
the  side  of  the  river.  All  which  is  exactly  agreeable  to  the  rules 
the  Romans  seem  to  have  almost  inviolably  observed  in  building 
their  stations***  Tlie  steam  engines  of  Wallsend  coDiery  are 
nearly  upon  the  site  of  this  station.     In  sinking  the  aliaft  of  a 

pit, 


KORTHUMBEHLAKB*  t9 

|>it»  rtry  large  teethe  and  a  conduit  formed  of  large  stonee^  were 
fbund.  Fragments  of  beautiful  pottery  ;  immense  quantities  of 
bones  and  horns  of  ammafs  are  continually  turning  up ;  and  in- 
jtcribed  stones  have  been  built  up  by  the  incurious  masons.  In 
the  works  of  the  colliery.*  Four  centurial  inscriptions,  and  an 
altar  to  Jupiter,  are  given  in  Horslcy,  the  originals  of  whicli  are 
St  the  rectory  of  Ryton^     This  inscription=- 

HADR  .... 

MVR.COND.  .  .  . 

HOC  MAR  .... 

PO!i .  COSS  .  D  .  ,  .  . 

g]?eci  by  Penant  in  his  Northern  Tour,  is  a  forgery,  published 
in  the  Newcastle  Journal,  August  6,  1 775.  The  ancient  xilfage 
of  Wallsendi  called  by  Letand  pagula  infrequens,  stood  on  the 
lite  of  the  station  ;  the  motlcm  village  is  a  mile  north  of  it,  and 
contains  a  few  excellent  houses.  The  Old  Church  dedicated  to 
Holy  Cross,  stood  very  inconveniently  upon  the  brow  of  a  hill, 
and  bad  a  long  flight  of  stairs  up  to  it.  The  New  Church  wai 
uder  authority  of  an  act  of  parliament,  and  opened  in 

**  I  dare  con6dently  affirm,'*  says  Camden,  "that  Tynemouth 
in  the  lime  of  the  Romans  was  called  Tunnocellum  ;"  but 
Horsley,  on  rational  grounds,  placed  that  station  at  Boulne^, 
on  the  opposite  end  of  the  walLf  Recent  discoveries  have, 
however,  proved  that  the  Romans  had  buildings  here.  Two 
inscriptions  were  found  in  1785,  on  the  north  side  of  the  castle, 
til  feet  below  the  surface,  and  in  the  foundation  of  an  ancient 
building.  They  are  in  the  possession  of  the  London  Society  of 
Aatiquaries.    One  of  them  is  an  altar  inscribed  in  tliis  manner:— 

lOM 
AEI^  RVFVS 
PRAEF  COH 
niL  LINGO 

NVM 


'  Bfiiil^  Newc,  Voh  L  p.  604. 


whloh 
t  Brit.  Rom,  pp^  lot,  109. 


80  NORTHrMBERLAKIK 

which  is  plainly  to  be  read ;  Jtm  optima  nummo  Mlius  Rufia 
prafectus  cohort  is  quart  i^  Lingonum,  This  is  the  first  nientioo 
of  die  Jir&i  cohort  of  Lingones*  and  of  the  prefect  MMum 
Riiftis.^  The  other  inscriptloci  is  on  a  tablet  about  twenty* 
one  iDcheE  square : — 

CYRVM  CVMBAS 

ET  TEMPLVM 

FECIT    CVI 

MAXIMINVS 

LEG;  VT:  VI 

EX  VOTO 

G^ruMf  cumhas^  et  templtini  fecit  Caiitn  Jtditis  Maximinus  Le^ 
gionit  iextm  xHctrices  ex  voto.  This  is  the  most  approved  reading. 
The  two  first  lines  of  the  original  are,  however,  much  defaced, 
and,  in  diiierent  works  hnve  been  so  variously  engraveD,f  m  to 
make  m  cautious  in  adopting  the  barbarous  triads  ^jrrum, 
cumbas,  et  templuni.  Brand  supposed  that  gyrum  meant  *  a 
circular  harbour  for  tlie  shipping;'  and,  that  the  word  referred 
to  Prior*s  Havens  adjoining  to  this  place,  and  which,  in  hii 
opinion,  had  all  the  appearance  of  having  been  one  of  the 
artificial  harbours  of  the  Romans :  but  Gough  endeavours  to 
prove  that  the  word  has  no  such  meaning.  The  other  readingft. 
proposed  for  the  first  line  are,  Cippum  cum  basi^  and  Publicum 
civicum  hasiliatm*  Perhaps  the  Maximinus  here  mentioned 
waa  that  gigantic  favourite  of  Severus,  who,  from  a  commoii 
soldier  was  made  a  centurion^  then  a  tribune,  and  last  of  aH 
became  conmiander  in  chief,  and  usurped  the  empire. 

Though  the  origin  of  the  monastic  institution  at  this  place  it 
both  remote  and  uncertain,  it  is  believed  that  a  small  chapel  of 
wood  was  erected  here  in  the  popular  reign  of  Edwine,  king  of 
Northumberland,  and  that  his  daughter,  Rosella,  took  the  veil 
in  itj     His  successor,  St.  OswaJdi  rebuilt  it  of  stone.$     On 

account 


t  G«ot  Mftg,  1786,  p. 


Gongh's  Camd.  III.  t56. 
8«5*    BranJ^s  Newc  Vol  IL  p.  65.    Gough'j 


.Vol.111,  pi.  Mil*  fig.  15. 

I  %M,  Ul.  IV.  ToBi.  L.  C.  p.  45.        i  Tin.  Not.  Mon. 


If  KORTIiUMBERLAyD. 

On  account  of  the  injury  it  received  from  this  siege  it  was 

rebuilt  about  1110,  iu  which  year,  the  remains  of  St-  Oswin 
were  regained  from  Jarrow,  The  monks  of  Durham  made 
fieveral  inefTectual  attempts  to  recover  it  from  the  church  of 
St,  Albans.*  David,  King  of  Scotland,  spared  it  from  the 
general  desolation  in  which  his  arms  involved  Nortliumberland, 
for  the  consideration  of  twenty-seven  marks  of  lilver.f  William 
Figun,  tlie  thievish  and  gluttonous  monk  who  atole  the  common- 
seal  of  Sl  AlbanSj  and  committed  a  forgery  vrith  it,  waa  banished 
from  tliat  house  to  this  cell  at  Thinemut,  His  end  was  mise- 
rable ;  ^*  for  falling  asleep  in  the  privy,  after  he  had  over-eaten 
and  dranki  he  never  waked  again  ;  and  the  monks  who  were  in 
the  dortore,  distinctly  heard  a  voice  crying  in  the  privy,  *  take 
him,  Satan  !  take  him,  Sat&n  !**  *% 

When  William  Trumpintun  was  abbot  of  St.  Alban's,  **  ta 
the  end  that  he  might  reign  alone  without  contradiction,  he  re- 
moved his  prior,  Relmuud,  the  greatest  monk  then  living,  well 
knowing  that  if  he  subdued  the  chief  tJie  rest  would  be  hushed 
through  fear,  and  sent  him  away  to  the  cell  of  Thinemue,  which 
ifl  a  place  of  banishment  for  our  monks,  taking  aWBy  his  books, 
which  hail  cost  him  much  pains  to  procure,  and  other  nec€«- 
saries  that  he  might  havu  enjoyed,  being  an  ancient  man. 
From  that  time  none  durst  open  their  mouths  against  the  abbot ; 
and  he  went  on  merrily  and  securely,  and  visited  the  cell  of 
Thynemue  and  others,  with  great  retinue,  being  attended  by  a 
great  number  of  kindred,  who  I>ad  never  known  him  before,  I 
will  hero  mention  what  i^  to  be  done  when  the  abbot  comes  from 
Thynemue : — When  he  goes  thither,  he  is  to  be  attended  by  six 
esquires,  who,  to  this  effect  have  extraordinary  feofs  of  the  land 
of  the  chiii'ch.  These  six  shall  be  at  tlie  abbot's  charge,  both  going 
and  coming,  but  upon  their  own  horses,  the  which  shall  be 
£tghtJy,  and  strong  enough  to  carry,  according  to  custom,  if 
need  be,    the  habits  of  a  monk  behind  each  squire.     If  any 

horse 

•  Siin.  Duu.  Col.  543.        t  Dug.  Mon.  VtiL  I.  p,  335.    Rip.  Haj,  p.  Jld, 
I  Stev.  CoDt.  of  Dug.  Vol.  I.  p.  253. 


XOKTHUMBSn  LAND. 


I?S 


I 


I 
^ 


hone  belonging  to  any  of  these  squires  shall  happen  to  die  by 
the  way  tl*e  abbot  is  to  give  him  ten  shillings  for  his  loss.  It 
is  to  be  observed,  that  the  abbot  is  to  ask  the  king's  h'cence  to 
go  to  such  remote  parts  of  the  kingdom,  and  so  near  Scotland^ 
wh«DMiever  be  derigna  to  repair  to  Thyncmue,  When  arrived 
theiv»  he  is  to  behave  himself  modestly,  correcting  the  family ; 
not  to  be  3  tyrant,  not  sqaanilertng  the  provisions  and  stores  of 
the  bouse ;  but  considering  that  he  h  come  thither  to  reform 
all  that  requires  it»  and  to  visit  his  flock  with  fatherly  affec- 
littn*  Peace  being  retilored»  and  King  John  dying,  William 
resolved  to  visit  Thynemue,  and  other  cells,  and  accordingly 
set  out  northward.  In  his  way  he  was  attended  by  such  a  mid* 
tilude  08  looked  like  an  army.  There  he  reformed  what  was 
amiss :  and  being  desirM  by  the  prior  to  discharge  him  of  that 
office,  because  he  wm  grown  old,  he  intreoted  him  to  have 
patience  for  awhile  till  he  could  provide  for  all  things.  'Hie  old 
prior,  with  much  dilBcuhy,  obtained  leave  to  quit  that  digniry, 
aad  was  all  the  rest  of  his  life  kept  by  the  tibbot,  as  his  couii- 
•efior,  and  at  hh  table.'*  ^ 

Among  the  most  remarkable  features  of  the  history  of  thi« 
place,  after  this  time,  are  the  following.  The  churches  of 
Eglingham,  Norton,  and  Hartbuni,  were  given  to  the  monks  for 
the  purpose  of  mending  their  ale,  and  to  enlarge  their  means  of 
baapttality.  The  prior  mediated  a  peace  between  England  and 
Scotland,  in  1244;  and  eleven  years  aAer  obtained  a  charter 
from  Henry  the  Third,  to  hold  a  market  in  liis  %ine  and  manor 
of  Bewicke.  He  claimed  the  privilege  of  a  market  also  at 
Tynemouth  ;  but  in  a  suit  on  that  account,  judgment  wa< 
given  against  him  in  tlie  King's  Bench*  1  he  place,  however, 
iiad  certain  immunities,  which  it  annually  asked  of  the  judges 
itinerant,  by  some  great  public  character,  or  by  its  baililfs, 
ai  the  *  Chille*  Fountmn,  in  Gateshead,  when  they  came  from 
Y'ork ;  or  at  *  Faurstanes,*  when  they  came  from  Cmnberlimd. 
They  returned  the  king's  writ  within  their  respective  lordhhips» 

G  2  au4 

♦  SUV.  Cotit.  of  Dug.  Vol.  I.  pjK  ?56,  fi6. 


84"  KORTHUMBERLAND. 

and  were  cxf  mptecl  from  comage  by  King  John  :  several  vil- 
lages in  Northumberland,  however,  paid  coniage  both  to  St. 
Alban's  and  to  this  house*  Edward  the  First,  in  1299,  re- 
stored them  certain  tree  customs,  which  the  crown  liad  deprived 
them  of,  and  granted  the  prior  to  liave  all  pleas  concerning  his 
men,  lands,  and  tenements,  to  bo  pleaded  and  determined  by 
his  oun  juBtices,  the  king's  justices  not  being  permitted  to  enter 
his  liberty. f  A  fair,  granted  to  the  place  in  1303,  was  re- 
voked the  next  year,  on  the  petition  of  the  town  of  Newcastle. 
The  prior  caused  a  pillory  to  be  erected  in  the  village,  in  1307* 
A  riotous  band  of  Northumbrians,  at  tlie  head  of  whom  were 
Sir  William  dc  Middlcton,  Knt.  and  Walter  de  Seleby,  ravaged 
this  house,  in  131G  ;  but  being  apprehended,  they  were  sent  to 
London  by  shipping,  and  there  tried,  condemned,  and  hanged. 
The  hospital  of  St,  Leonard,  at  this  place,  is  of  uncertain 
foundation  i  it  existecT  in  1320.  Ruins  of  it  are  still  traceable 
a  little  to  the  west  of  Tynemouth^  on  the  road  to  Newcastle,  J 
The  queen  of  Edward  the  Second  resided  here  some  time,  in 
1322;  as  had  also  the  queen  of  Edward  the  First,  in  1303- 
The  monastery  was  plundered  by  a  party  of  Scots,  under  iJie 
Earl  of  Murray,  in  1389.5  Cardinal  Wolsey  wrote  to  Lord 
Dacre,  warden  of  the  marches,  desiring  him,  *  by  all  meanft 
and  politique  wayes  which  he  could  devise,*  to  bring  one  Ro* 

bert 


•  Stcv,  Coat,  Dug.  11.  p,  79, 
i  Brattft's  Kcwc<  II.  p.  B6. 


TiD,  CImrt.  f.  97* 
t  Ibid,  II.  p.  91. 


i 


§  Oa  Ao^nft  the  Iwentletb,  las'!,   being  tlie  feitival  of  St.  O^wiu's 

Passion,  whilst  a  iai  I  or  was  lie  win;;  a  pitca  of  wood  for  bis  sbip,  at  Ntrw- 
CBPtlc  upon  T^ue,  he  pfTccivctl  blood  to  ilow  from  it ;  but  recollecting 
tlie  boly  day^  de^utecl  (ivnt  hh  eiriploytiii'nf^  A  curnpanioa  of  bis  dbrc* 
gardiog  tht  iiiir^cle,  came  and  stmck  it  again;  but  inuoediatety  blood 
gU!(bed  from  every  patt  tliat  was  cut,  as  if  one'*  breast  had  been  pierced 
with  a  iword.  ITm;  matter  was  told  to  the  clergy,  i^ho,  with  the  laity* 
approved  of  the  mirade :  the  wood  wm  tukcn  to  Tyueoioutby  aad  placed 
by  the  body  of  tbe  tfaliit,  in  teilimooy  of  the  miracle*  Wahiughajp,  Ypa. 
Neiut  p.  336. 


I 


KOHTHUMBERLAND.  85 

Lambert  to  justice,  who,  on  account  of  murder,  bad  taken 
SJUJctuary  in  the  church  of  this  monastery.* 

Kobcrt  Blakeney,  prior,  with  fifteen  monks  and  three  no- 
vices surrendered  this  monastery,  January  the  twelftlj,  1539, 
when  an  annual  pension  of  eighty  pounds  was  assigned  to  the 
prior,  and  smaller  ones  to  each  of  the  monks  and  novices.  Its 
dite»  with  all  its  ofHces,  were  demised,  March  the  ninth,  in  the 
year,  on  a  lease  of  twenty-one  years,  and  at  a  yearly  rent 
of  1631.  17s.  to  Sir  Thomas  Hilton.  Its  po^iscssions  were  very 
large,  having  twenty-seven  villas  in  Nort!j  umber  land,  with  their 
royalties  belonging  to  it :-— viz.  Tyncmouth,  Milnton,  Shields, 
East  ChirtoD,  East  Preston,  Monkton,  Whitley  (where  they 
had  a  tower)  Murton,  Ersden,  llackworth,  Seghill,  Wobing- 
ton»  Dbsington,  Elswick,  Wylam,  Hertford,  Cowpen,  Bebaide^ 
Wddon,  Hauxley,  Ambell,  Eglinghum,  Bewick,  Lilbum,  Flat- 
wortli.  Middle  Chirton,  West  Chirtoii.  Tliey  had  the  lands  of 
Ro}*eley  and  Denum,f  a  tower  at  Benwell,  and  possessions  at 
"  Mokcteiton,  Denton,  Whittlngliam,  Billyraille,  and  Framling- 
ton."  J  They  had  the  tythe^  of  Corbrldge,  Ovington,  Wylam> 
Kewbum,  Dissington,  Callcrton,  Elswick,  Bothal,  Warkworth, 
Ambel,  Rothbury,  and  Wooler,  in  Northumberland ;  and  of 
Hertnes  and  Middleton  upon  Tees,  in  Durham.  Several  mes- 
iHj^tt  in  Newcastle  belonged  to  them,  as  also  the  impropria* 
tioiis  and  advowsons  of  the  churches  of  Tynemouth,  Wood- 
bcffiiy  Wlialton,  Bolam,  Bewick,  EgUngham,  Hartburn,  Shi!- 
tolle,  and  Haltwesel,  in  Northumberland ;  and  those  of  Con3-» 
dil^  in  Durham.  The  Benedictine  monastery  on  Cocquet  Island 
nnacell  to  this  houset  Their  whole  possessions,  in  15 S9,  were 
CMiEiiated  at  TOGl.  l(h.  S|d.  a  year.^     These  continued  in  the 

G  5  hands 

•  Brand's  Ncwc,  Vol.  II.  p.  105. 

t  Ibid.  p»  liO.    Grose,  Vol,  IV,  p*  146. 

i  Law.  MS.  f.  13.     Brand's  Newc.  p.  110. 

i  Ms.  10  llic  Aiicni.  OflRro,     Bratitl»  Vol.  IL  p.  Ill,    Du^dale  vftlucs 
iftt58rK  lo$«  5d.— Speed  at  5111.  4s.  id.— and  Stevens'  Continuation  sa>g, 
I  iade  5111. 4s.  l^d.  stimma  dara  :V}7U  IO2,  d|d«  per  antt.*' 


86  SORT BUM 8BRLAN0* 

hands  of  the  king  till  Edward  the  Sixth,  in  I550»  gave  them 
in  fee  to  John  Dudley*  then  Earl  of  Wan^'ick ;  but  on  that 
nobleman*^  atUtinder  they  again  reverted  to  the  crown,  and,  in 
I  1567,  were  enumerated  amongst  the  queen's  possessions  in 
No  rthun  ib  erl  an  d.* 

The  churdi  was  parochiaJ  tiU  16.S9,  when  a  part  of  its  roof 
ts  eaid  to  have  falen  in,  and  killed  five  or  six  soldiers.f     On 
account  of  this  great  **  decay,  and  the  parishioners  in  the  late 
civil  wars  being  often  debarred  the  liberty  of  a  free  resort  to  it* 
another  was  begun  to  be  built*  in    J  659,  and  being  afterwards 
finii^hed,  was  consecrated,  in  J  668,  by  Bi&hop  Cosins/*J     The 
cemetry  here»  however,  continues  to  lie  used;    but  the  little 
oratory  of  St-  Mary,  wliich,  a  few  years  ago,  was  in  great  per* 
fection,  and  occas tonal ty  uned   at  funerals,  lias  lately  suffered 
great  desecration,  having  had  its  windows  walled  up,  and  being 
converted  into  a  magazine  for  miiitary  stores.     This  oratory  is"^ 
nine  feet  broadj  and  eighteen  feet  long*     "  It  is  adorned,**  laya 
I  Grose^  *•  with  intersecting  archesi,  and  the  ceiling  omamentell 
with  figures  in  relief,  representing  Christ  and  the  twelve  Apos- 
tles.    These   are   enclosed  in  roundels,  having  an  in^ription 
under  each  of  them,  in  the  old  text  hand :  both  these  and  the 
figures  are  as  fair  and  perfect  as  when  first  executed*     This 
chapel  is  lighted  by  a  round  window.     On  each  side  of  the  door 
are  two  heada,  in  a  Flyle  much  superior  to  that  of  the  general 
taste  of  the  age  in  which  Uiey  were  supposed  to  have  been  done; 
and  over  the  same  door  are  two  encatcheons,  the  dexter  one 
charged  with  bearings  of  Vesey,  a  cross  sable  ;  the  sinister,  th* 
bearingH  of  Brabaut  and  Lucy,  quarterly."^     Hutchinson  con- 
ceived tliis  place  contained  the  shrine  and  tomb  of  St.  Oswin, 
Ilut  we  believe,  with  Gro^e,  that  the  arms  just  mentioned  are 
those  of  the  Percys,   for  the  Tynemouth  Chartulary  mentions 
**  die  new  chapel  of  St.  Mary,*'  in  1336;  and  MS.  authorities 
in  the  Bodh'ur  and  Bcnnet  college  libraries,  quoted  by  Brandy 

prove 

•  Law.  MS.  f.  13.         t  Thnr.  St.  Pap.  Vol.  VT.  p.  J31. 
I  Miig.  B  it.  Vol.  UL  p*  694.  Id.  1754.  4  Hiilcli.  11.  316. 


p« 

k     foe 


\ 


KOHTtlUMEERLAKD.  tf 

prove  that  Lord  Henry  Percy,  about  that  time,  was  a  great  bene* 
factor  to  this  church,  having  bestowed  100  marks  and  more  than 

.000  trees,  to  assist  in  its  reparation,  af^er  it  had  been  destroy td 
the  Scots,*  To  this  date  may  also  be  fixed  the  origin  of  the 
greatest  parts  of  the  edifices,  as  they  stood  at  the  dissolution* 
Thej  indeed  appear  to  have  been  the  work  of  different  ages  ; 
many  of  the  arches  being  ornamented  witli  the  zig-zag,  severjil 
of  them  semicircular,  and  others  pointed* 

Colonel  Eduyard  Villi ers  was  governor  of  this  castle  iii  16'6/>t 
and  died  in  1707.  Much  of  the  priory  was  **  pulled  down  by 
lttt»t  for  erecting  the  barracks,  light-house,  bis  own  house,  nenr 
itf  and  other  edifices;  he  likewise  stripped  off  the  lead  vUiich 
tiJJ  then  bad  covered  the  church.  This  I  was  informed  by  an 
ancient  man,  who  lived  ne^r  the  spot;  and  who  likewise  said  a 
great  deal,  particularly  a  long  gallery,  had  fallen  down  of  itself. 
Towards  the  south  side  this  monastery  seems  to  hnve  been  i^ur- 
nmnded  by  a  double  enceinte  of  walls.  The  graves  of  many 
persons,  said  to  have  been  slain  in  the  siege,  are  iVequently 
?i&tb1e  in  a  dry  summer,  without  the  walls  of  the  place.**f  In 
these  banks  are  also  apparent  a  seam  of  coats,  and  a  tnetaUic  vein, 
which  has  produced  a  small  quantity  of  lead* 

During  the  years  we  were  threatened  with  French  invasion, 
these  light  and  elegant  remains  suffered  greatly  by  the  military 
amuigements  made  at  that  time-  Sufficient  specimens  of  theni> 
however^  are  lefl  to  point  out  the  extent  and  ancient  magnificence 
of  die  establishment ;  though  more  wanton  and  more  needless 
desecration  was  never  committed  upon  any  spot  than  this. 

John  IVelhemstede^  a  learned  and  voluminous  divine  and  his- 
torian, while  he  was  prior  here,  was  promoted  to  the  abbacy  of 
St*  Albans,  upon  which  occasion  he  gave  to  his  house  a  chalice 
of^d.(  Jahn  of  Ti/ncmoiUh^  also,  an  eminent  sacred  biogra- 
phcTy  was  born  and  flourished  here.  He  was  vicar  of  Tync- 
mouth  in  1366.     His  greatest  work  he  called  Sanciihgium  tkr- 

G  4  vQrum 

*  llrai>^,  n.  94.  t  Gro^f  ^  ^vp* 

t  i^lev.  Can,  of  Dtigd.  Vol.  t.  p.  £6i. 


88  NORTHUMfiERLAKll. 

ivorum  Det.^     His  Golden  History^  in  twenty  books,  is  extant  in 

[  Uie  library  at  Lambetli.f 

We  have  before  mentioned  that  Ti/nemoidh   Castle  was  two 
I  months  besieged  by  William  Rufus.j:  Henrj^  Lord  Percy,  about 
I  the  year  133G,  gave    100  niarks  towartb  building  a  gate  here; 
I  and,  under  \S1%  the  Tynemouth  Chartulary  describes  the  pri-* 
Lc^ry  afi  "  a  certain  fortified  and  walled  place,  to  resist  the  inalico 
t  of  the  enemies  of  the  kingdom.^*     In  Queen  Elizabeth's  time  it 
had  one  master-gunner  at  eightpence  a  day,  and  six  inferior 
gimners  at  sixpence  a  day  each. J     At  present,  eays  Camden,  it 
glories  in  a  noble  and  strong  castle,  which,  in  the  language  of 
an  old  writer,  **  1%  made  inaccessible  on  the  cast  and  north  side 
by  a  rock  over  the  ocean  i  but,  on  the  other  sides,  on  account  of 
its   lofty  situation,  is  eaEiJy  ddended,**  ||     The   Earl  of  New- 
castle put  it  into  a  posture  of  defence  in  1612.     He  sent  to  it, 
from  Newcastle,  six  great  guns  and  300  soldiers,  and  threw  up 
trenches,  and  built  a  fort  to  defend  the  haven  ;^  but  it  wj 
obh'ged  to  surrender  to  General  Levin,  \i\   164*4',  when  thirty- 
eight  pieces  of  ordnance,  and  great  store  of  ammunition  and 
provisions  fell  into  his  hands*     The  garrison  were  allowed   to 
march  out  with  their  baggage ;  but  bound  themselves  to  submit 
to  the  instructions  of  parEament.     Before  this  surrender  the 
soldiers  had  suffered  so  much  by  the  plague  that    the  com- 
mander in  chief  had  fled  out  of  it  ;^*  and  six  prisoners  who  had 
been  taken  in  Nortliumberland,  made  tlieir  escape  in  a  tem- 
pestuous night,  **  through  a  privy  built  on  the  north  side  of  the 
castle ;  and  though  the  rock  is  very  high,  yet,  with  sheets  sewed 
together,  they  let  themselves  down/'f  f     On  Colonel  Lilburne's 
revolt,    in  1618,  this  fortress  was  stormed,  and  all  found  in 
arras  in  it  were  put  to  death !    Lilburoe  was  dccolated,  and 


ip       I 


•  Stcf.  Con.  of  Dugd» Vol.  I.  p.  208,     f  NichoUou's  Hist,  lih.VoI.  1»  p,  \7<J. 

%  Sax.  Chron*  p.  $oe.        $  Pecks  DeiiJ.  Cur.  Vol.  L  lib.  li.  p.  J 5. 

II  Brit.  p.  650.  Ed.  1590.  %  Lord's  Jour,  Vol  V.  p.  170. 

♦  ♦Par.  Hist,  Vol.  XIII.  p.  S56.         tt  Rush.  Coll.  p.  4.  VoJ»  11.  p,  1219. 


JtOKTMrMBERLAKD. 


89 


» 
» 


I 


tiead  stuck  upon  a  pole!  A  tier  long  neglect  the  batteries 
wei%  repaired,  and  tlie  castle  made  a  depot  for  arms  nnd  tnili- 
tary  •lores  in  17^3  ;  at  whith  time  Major  Drunford  discovered 
llietwd  Roman  mscrlptions.  Little  remains  of  this  ancient  btd- 
wvrlc  except  a  strong  gate-way,  the  approach  to  which  has  been 
laleij  flanked  with  baMions,  in  the  true  gingerbread  style.  The 
iSlftge  of  Tynemoutli  is  much  frequented  in  the  bathing  season; 
and  very  convenient  warm  and  cold  badis  have  been  erected  in 
the  Friar*s   Haven, 

The  four  wards   of  the    to^rn    of  North    SttiELDS   con- 
laioedy  in  1801,  not  less  than  891  houses^  and  7,280  persons. 
In   ft  case  between  the  town    of    Newcastle  and   tlie   Prior 
of  Tynemouth,    tried  in  the  King's  Bench,    in   1292,   it  ap- 
peared tliat,  at  this  town,  where  there  had  been  certain  small 
dwellings,  tlie  prior  of  Tynemouth  had  built  a  quay  and  twenty- 
six  house^t  and  that  these  Iiouses  were  tenanted  by  fishers, 
brewers,  and  vietuallcrs,  so  rich  as  to  be  able  to  give  loading 
aod  victuals  for  100  or  200  ships ;  and  that,  because  all  this  was 
done  to  the  great  loss  of  the  king's  revenue,  and  the  detriment 
of  the   town  of  Newcastle,  judgment  was  given    against  the 
prior,  and  he  was  ordered  to  remove  all  these  new  erections  at 
his  own  charge.*     As  Newcastle  continued  to  insist  upon  having 
the  sole  right  of  holding  a  market  upon  the  navigable  part  of  the 
Tyne,  the  want  of  one  was  much  complained  of  at  this  place  by 
its  iidiabltants,  and  the  sea-foring  people  that  tVequented  it,  in 
the  time  of  Cromwell,  who,  it  should  seem,  had  serious  intent 
tions  of  constituting  it  a  markcl-town.f     But  the  measure  was, 
ftt  tliat  time,  prevented  by  the  breaking  up  of  parliament,  and 
many  years  elapsed  before  this  desirable  privilege  was  obtained. 
The  pi4igt<e  raged  here  in  1695*     We  have  before  noticed,  that 
the  parUh  church  was  built  in  1659.     It  is  a  plain  but  commo- 
dioos  edifice,  conveniently  situated  on  the  north  side  of  the 
town  :  it  1ms  at  various  limes  undergone  alterations  and  enlarge- 
ments; and,  some  years  ago,  a  steeple  was  erected,  and  six 
sausical  bells  placed  therein^     Charity  schools,  on  the  improved 

systems 
•  Boiimet  Ncwc*  p.  162,  178.  t  Engl  Gricv.  pp.  117, 11£>,  lih 


00  KORTHUMBSRLANH. 

systems  of  education,  have  been  lately  founded  here  :  they  are 
supported  by  annual  benefactions.  The  oldest  part  of  the  town 
is  a  long  narrow  street,  on  the  brink  of  the  river,  whichj  for 
dirt  and  bustle,  and  confusion,  is  bo  where  better  equalled  than 
in  Wapping.  The  improvements  and  enlargements  herehove^ 
however,  been  carried  on  of  late  years  on  a  very  extensive  scale. 
Many  new  streets  have  been  built,  others  arc  now  building,  and 
several  more  have  been  planned.  Doekwray  8quare,  a  place  of 
considerable  neatness,  is  the  most  fashionable  part  of  the  town  ; 
being  chiefly  inhabited  by  wealthy  ship-owners.  An  elegant 
ion,  built  by  the  Duke  of  Nonhumberland ;  a  new  market* 
place,  on  the  side  of  the  rirer ;  and  a  public  library,  are 
amongst  the  latest  improvements-  At  the  foot  of  the  town  are 
two  light-houses,  maintained  by  the  Trinity-house  of  New- 
castle; and  near  them  Clifford's  fort,  built  in  1672;*  taken  by 
the  Scots  1614  ;t  and  which  efiectually  commands  all  ve8seb 
entering  the  river,}: 

At  Chirton^  in  this  parish,  Mr»  Gardiner  wrote  that  severe 
stricture  on  the  coal  trade,  entitled  "  England*  Grievance  Dis- 
covered." Mr.  Collingivood,  brother  of  the  late  Lord  Colling- 
urood,  and  Mr.  Cardonnell,  author  of  "  Picturesque  Antiquities 
of  Scotland,"  have  each  a  residence  here.  It  has  been  conjec- 
tured $  that  this  place  had  its  name  from  having  been  the  site  of 
a  Roman  fort;  for  in  the  fields  of  East  Cliirton  there  was  a 
place,  in  1320,  called  "  Blake  Ghestres.")]  Cuflercoats  is  a 
small  bathing -town,  inhabited  chiefly  by  fishermen.  Here  are 
warm  and  cold  baths,  a  ballast  hill,  the  ruins  of  an  old  pier, 
of  a  waggon-way  for  coals,  and  behind  the  village  a  neglected 
quaker  burial-grotmd.  IVhitletf  contains  fii\y-five  houses,  some 
of  them  inhabited  by  genteel  families  ;  this  village  was  held  of 
the  prior  of  Tyneraouth,  by  the  singidar  service  of  making,  at 
the  tower  thereof^  a  large  annual  feast,  called  *  le  com^eyes,*  to 
the  members  of  the  monastery  and  certain  of  its  dependents, 

OQ 
•  Bonnrf'R  Xcwc.  178t  t  WaJlis  II,  555* 

♦  See  South  SJiields,  Vol.  \\  p.  15^5. 
$  S€e  RcyD«td  ft  It^  Aat.         []  Tynem,  Chart  f.  81.  Brand  s  Newc.  II  9K 


korthumbehland.  91 

on  Innocenl^s  l^^y*  ftnd  die  day  afler.  As  horses  and  dogs  were 
included  in  the  naniber  of  the  guests  it  U  probable  that  hunting 
made  orte  part  of  the  amusement.^  The  Moh^*x  Stont\  near 
the  village  of  Monkseaton,  is  nothing  more  than  the  remains  of 
An  ancient  crofts ;  upon  the  pedestal  of  which  is  this  "  idle  and 
modem"  tndcnption :  '*  O  Horor  to  Kill  a  man  For  a  Pigei 
head**'  This  motto  Mr*  Grose,  with  considerable  he&itatian, 
ittriblites  to  a  liquorish  monk  of  the  cell  of  Tynemouth,  ^\  ho 
strolling  to  the  castle  of  Seaton  Delaval,  cut  off  a  pig's  head 
6-0111  the  spit,  and  made  the  hest  of  his  way  homewards  with  it. 
Mr.  Dehivalf  on  his  return  from  hunting,  enraged  at  this  au- 
tlacity,  remounted  hh  horse,  and  pursuing  die  offender^  over- 
took him  at  tliis  place,  and  so  belaboured  him  with  his  hunting 
gad,  that  his  death,  which  happened  within  a  year  and  a  day, 
was  laid  to  his  charge.  As  an  expiation  of  the  deed  this  obe- 
lisk was  erected,  and  the  manor  of  Elsig  (or  Elswick)  conveyed 
to  die  roona«tcry, 

Earsdon  Church  h  a  plain  ancient  building,  dedicated  to 
St,  Alban,  and  is  subject  to  Tynemouth,  to  wliich,  with  the 
manor  and  tythes  of  Earsdon,  it  belonged  in  1097.  The  manor 
paid  sin  shillings  a  year  comage  to  the  prior  of  St.  Alban's. 

Seaton  Dllaval  is  situated  upon  a  gentle  slope,  and  though 
the  surrounding  country  is  fiat  and  tame,  yet  the  magnihcence 
of  the  buihiing,  the  extent  of  tlie  pleasure  grounds,  and  its  con- 
tiguity to  the  sea,  renders  it  an  interesting  spot.  The  site  of 
^le  ancient  cnsth  was  a  little  to  the  south-west  of  the  present 
icturc;  but  its  wall^  have  been  entirely  razed,  its  ditches 
levelled,  and  nothing  is  now  lell  of  the  first  establishnienta  of 
this  fttinily  excej^  the  chapeL  This  little  venerable  pile  is  one 
of  the  purest  and  most  perfect  specimens  of  Norman  architec* 
tare  in  the  kingdom.  Except  iu  its  roof,  it  seems  to  have  tin* 
jone  very  few  alterations.  Above  the  west  door,  within  and 
lout,  are  six  shields,  charged  with  arms  of  die  Delavals. 
The  arches^  at  the  entrance  into  the  chancel  and  above  the 

alur 
•  Tynern.  Chart,  t  6a* 


9S  XORTtlUMBERLAIiiD. 

altar,  are  supported  by  short  columns,  with  plain  lieav}^  capi- 
tals, and  wrought  with  double  tiers  of  zig*zag.  The  walls  are 
decorated  with  pieces  of  armour,  tattered  banners  and  escut- 
cheons. There  are  also  here  two  old  monuments — one  of  them 
a  recumbent  figure  of  a  knight  templar  in  armour,  resting  upon 
his  \ei\  arm,  liis  shield  plaiu,  and  the  other  a  neatlj  executed 
recumbent  figure  of  a  female,  with  her  hands  elevated.  Each 
of  them  have  a  dog  at  their  feet,  the  usual  emblem  of  faith- 
fuinesB. 

Seaton  Delaval  was  built  by  Admiral  Delaval,  after  a  design 
of  his  friend  Sir  John  Vanbrugh.  Heynolds  contributed  much 
to  rescue  the  bold  and  txfraordinary  genius  of  this  architect 
from  that  unmerited  neglect  to  which  it  had  been  consigned  by 
jealousy  and  vulgar  criticism.  The  porticos,  the  hall,  and  the 
saloon,  are  the  chief  features  of  this  edifice.  The  offices  in  the 
lowest  story  are  all  arched  with  stone.  The  wings  range  at 
right  migles  with  the  north  front  of  the  house.  They  have  fine 
arcades  alopg  the  whole  length  of  their  fronts  ;  and  contain  the 
kitchen,  &c,  on  the  west  side  *,  and  very  noble  stables  on  the 
east.  Tlie  large  addition  to  the  ea*t  end  of  the  southern  front 
has  broken  the  uniibrmity  of  Vanbriigh's  design,  though  it  has 
been  executed  in  his  style.  It  was  the  intention  of  the  family 
to  liave  made  a  corresponding  addition  on  the  west,  but  as  the 
present  erections  are  in  extent  more  like  a  royal  palace  tlian 
tire  cotmtry  seat  of  a  subject,  it  is  not  likely  that  the  plan 
should  be  ever  finished.  Among  the  most  remarkable  produc* 
tions  of  art  in  this  hou«ie  arc^ — a  fine  full  length  portrait  of 
Charles  the  TwcllYh  of  Sweden,  in  the  fruit  room ;  very  fine  full 
length  pictures  of  the  princess  of  Modina,  and  one  of  her 
daugliters;  the  mother  of  tlie  present  Mr.  Delaval,  and  one  picture 
of  seven,  and  another  of  four  of  her  children,  by  Pond;  with  a  pic- 
ture of  Sir  Ralph  Delaval,  coasting  admiral  In  the  time  of  Charles 
the  Second,  and  several  other  family  portraits  in  the  saloon*     In 

the 

•  ♦  Ttiis  wiag  was  destroyed  by  fire,  May  G,  175?,  hnt  rebuilt  on  tlic 
•riginnl  i>Ua* 


NORTnU^fBERLAND,  93 

^itt  parlour  are  heads  of  Sir  Francis  Drake  smd  Sir  Joha 
Btal,  of  Hm-tley;  and,  in  the  mahogany  parlour,  heads  of 
Adrujrol  George  Delaval,  and  his  friend  Sir  John  Jennings, 
both  by  Lely*  The  original  picture  of  the  Duchess  of  Cum- 
berland, by  Reynolds,  from  which  the  mezzotinto  engraving 
was  taken,  is  also  here« 

The  pleasures  grounds  are  extensive,  and  great  attention  has 
been  paid  to  adapt  them  to  the  situation.  In  spite  of  the  neigh* 
bourhood  of  the  sea,  the  trees  in  the  lawn  are  healthy,  and  have 
ittained  a  venerable  &ize ;  but  in  the  sea-walk,  and  where  tlie 
plantations  are  narrow,  they  are  stunted  and  miserably  shat- 
tered. A  fine  obelisk,  about  half  a  mile  south  of  the  house, 
hjis  beep  happily  placed  in  the  dead  flat  towards  Tyneniouth. 
The  mausoleum  was  built  by  the  late  Lord  Delaval,  in  memory 
of  hia  son,  who  died  about  his  twentieth  year.  * 

Seaton 

*  Tbis  fttniily  came  into  Eln^land  with  Wiltiain  the  Conqueror,  to  \^1mm 
they  were  r<^latfcl   by  the  nutniage  of  Guy  Dclavnl  to  I)ioriLhia«  i^rroui] 
liter  of  Robert,    I^rl  of  Mortag^it,   and  WilUani*?  niecis     In  liei, 
tt^rt  ilf^  la  VilI  f^ve  to  the  monks  of  Tycicniontt),  the  tyth&'i  of  Seaton, 
CBUerton,  and  Dusington. *      Ktchard   of  Hexliam,  tlourished  beti/^e<^ 
1154  atid  lia9,t  and  says^  tliat  Robert  dt  Seitm^  With  Rickaldy  his  itiotJjer' 
|tfe  to  the  church  of  Hexham  a  nioicty  of  tlie  \ille,  called  Achcwir  ]  and 
L^t  afterwards  this  Ridud^  mother  of  Robert  df  Ui  I W,  gave  to  ihe  same 
I  VVfch  all  her  right  of  ttie  other  moiety  of  Achewic.    The»e  arc  eaouie* 
liletl  aitioun;  hcnefactaens  to  Hexham,    by  David,   Kiag  of  Scots,    iind 
Kiof  ^lepbeu,  and  may  tlierefore  be  dated   between  li;35  nnd  1154.^ 
Dogdatr  njCDtioiis  a  Hu^h  Delaval,  in  1139^  and  a  Guy  Delavul,  the  ca- 
pital teat  of  \ihose  barony  wm  in  Yorksiiirc.    Jotm  '  Ucvai'  va,i  liberated 
from  a  J^rotch  prison  in  1174  ^  ^"^  Gilbert  Delav«tl  was  one  of  the  tweiity- 
fite  barofts  6Woro^  re»peetin<;  tJte  execntioD  uf  Magna  Chaita,  and  Chart;! 
Fflrerta,   by  Uie  pope.  ||     Etistnce  Delaval  held,  in  capite*  of  Heary  the 
'ITiird,  Black- Caller  ton,  with  Seitan  (ind  lU  mem  hers,  Newsham  and  Dis- 
iOigtony  for  two  knights*  fees  of  the  old  feufmeirt«^     llu^h  Dcluval  nianied 
Vind,  diugfiterand  Heiress  of  Hugh  de  liolt>ec  ;  **  he  was  alive  in  129;), 

but 

•  Speam.  MS.  f  SclH.  pref.  «d.  X.  tcript*  p.  xivii, 

t  X.  S«h|»t«  Col.  907.  $  Broniplnn  Col.  llu$.  tj  M.  Fftfis,  jl.  fM, 

t  TeiUi  dtf  KevUI,  p.  W3.  •*  D<ifd»  b^t* 


M  KOflTftUMBERLAH&* 

Seaton  w-a&  in  pos^ssion  of  the  prior  ofTynetnmith  in  1079,* 
and  paid  4  Id.  a  year  comage  to  the  abbot  of  St.  Albans.  The 
manor,  however,  comprised  a  part  of  the  barony  of  Delaval  id 

112U 
*  Br;)(id\  Ncwc.  VoL  II.  p,  27. 

Imt  dif<!  witlMHi*  hsne,  Eustace  jnctTctle^d  Hugh^  and  tlic  next  af^erbim 
va*  Kodcrt*  \%1m  niairied  Margsircr,  danghrer  of  William,  Lord  Grcji 
Ktokr.  Tiu.s  |{i»brrt  was  cofi.'iti  and  Jirir  of  x\iidte\v  deSni<"tlitoii,  *  who, 
1  Jl  I,  dir'd  "C'lKt'd  of  the  manor  of**  ScitonDcIava  c,  and  Ihe  villp  of  Norlj 
Dissjn;;ton."  Ijord  JnjiCiiiiK'  D'cvil  was  ouf  of  tlie  barons  nho  suffered  i 
the  bloody  quarrel  uliircd  njj  liy  the  **  fUe-wolf  of  France."^  William  De- 
lavnt,  ^liriilFof  NaitEimiilii'iUiiid  1111375,  inarricd  CbrisktianaT  tUhs;1iter  of 
Robert  dc  E^iUiieftoii.  Tla'ie  wsls  a  Sir  Ki>brrt  Delaval,  in  lo7b'»  be  W8« 
succeLiIt'd  b}'  Sir  Hptiiv  DolriTal,  wlio  dyiii;;  nithont  issiif*,  his  viUc  of 
'  Calverdon/  and  its  uienibtTii,  went  to  Jciliu  Tmpiii»  of  Wbitchestcr,  who 
liad  married  biji  sifter  Alice  ;  but  ,die  abo  dyin^  witbont  kstie,  a  tbrrd  of 
the  barony  di'scended  to  Jus  wister  Eiixabcih,  wife  of  Jolm  de  Tnipin. 
One  Manhcrye  liad  Ualf  of  ^'  Scitou  Delaval,  Norlli  Di^^ington,  and 
Hartela\«e/'  hi  l  MI2.  At>er  tljis«  f^rrat  jmrt  of  Ibe  family  pokAc^itfiiA 
fceni  to  liave  centered  in  William  DcIavHl,  of  BtiKvcll,  who  was  alive  in 
1455*  A  Wbiictii'stcr,  liovv(.'Vcr,  lield  a  titird  part  oftlte  mauor  of  Sciton 
Dclaral  in  1150.$  Sir  Jobn  Delavril,  %(bo  wa?)  fuiir  times  sbcrilf  of 
Korthnndji^rland,  atid  tbe  lin^t  time,  jg  j.iTO,  was  possessed  of  "  Seilon 
Ilclaval,  Black -Caller  I  on,  Brandon,  half  of  liydle>d<*n,  the  irillc  of  Hart- 
Icy,  nrnS  olbcr  posst'ssion"/'  in  tlie  lenili  of  EUatabelli.  ^  His  eldest  aon*  JoJip, 
doe»  not  appear  to  have  lived  to  inheril  tlje  eatatp;  for,  in  1575,  we  find  it 
•n  tbe  bajids  of  Sir  RoIi«rt ;  of  hU  kou  KRl]>b  in  id(),> ;  ibeu  of  liii^  grandson 
Kobert ;  ar>d  ibtu  of  ld'>  ronsin  Ualpb,  who  wa*  created  a  baronet  iii 
1660.  Tbis  tille,  in  tbf  next  generaiion,  brcanifi  exiincl  in  Sir  Jolui  De)a- 
ftil  whose  Quty  dan^btur  married  Jubn  Ro;^crs,  E>q.  anil  at  whoftc  decease 
the  family  po<i«ie«sioiT^  came  to  Geari^e  Deluvati  of  ^Hiutb  Diuin^ioo*  who 
had  til rce  sons,  Sir  John,  ofH;vr(lry»  Edward,  of  Diii>mgton,  and  Admiral 
George.  Edward  bml  isAiic  by  iMiiy*  daughter  of  Sir  Frauci»  Blake,  of 
Ford  Caattc^  one  son,  Sir  Francis  Blake  Delaval^  wbofoatried  M I? s  Hussy 
ap  Preace,  ^aod-daugbter  of  Sir  Tbonm«  Hu.4.4yi  of  Doddiogtou,  in 
olniiltire.  'Ilie  produce  of  ihiji  marriage  \%qs^  nitmermis.  TIh-  eldest  i 
Aamcd  after  bis  fiithcTi  was  created  a  Knight  of  tbe  Bath,  at  the  corocalioii  oT 

Gcorgflt 

•  \V«lll«,  It*  t?5.  ♦  KnifUlofl,  CoL  «^il.    Lei.  Ir.  ToL  V.  f.  loa. 

(  tawm,  M%,  f    ]«,  $  fb*  MS.  f.  IK 


1121}  and  has  continued  in  tlmt  lamily  ever  since.  The  har- 
bour here  was  formed  by  Sir  Ralph  Ddaval,  Bart.  "  Charles 
the  Second^  who  had  a  great  taste  for  matters  of  this  kind,  made 
lliia  collector  and  surveyor  of  hh  own  port."*  It  is  called  Sea- 
tOH'SIuice^  from  the  filuice  and  Hood-gates  which  Sir  Ralph 
invented  to  scour  the  harbour*  The  salt  trade  lins  diminishecf* 
The  copperas  and  glass  works  were  eommenccd  by  Thomaa 
Ddavalt  Esq,  who,  having  resided  some  time  at  Hamburg?!* 
obtained  considerable  wealth,  and  a  passion  for  commerce. 
He  also  planned  the  new  entrance  inio  the  Iiarbour^  which  was 
executed  by  the  late  Lord  Delava!,  his  brother,  to  whom  he 
so'd  ail  his  concern  at  this  place.  The  new  entrance  is  cut 
-t^.^'iugh  a  hne  free-stone,  and  is  nine  hundred  feet  long, thirty  i^et 
broart^  and  fifVy-two  feet  deep.  The  harbour  is  capable  of  hold- 
tag  twelve  or  fourteen  sail  of  vessels,  each  of  two  or  three  hun* 
^ed  tons  burden* 

Hartley,  a  village  about  half  a  mile  eouth  of  Seaton- 
Sluice,  in  the  time  of  Henry  the  Third,  was  held  by  knights* 
•ervice  of  the  barons  of  Gaugy,  Tlie  Hetton  ftimily  had  half 
this  mannor  in  1 35%f  and  the  other  half  appears  to  have  been 
considered  as  a  member  of  the  Delaval  barony,  from  the 
twdfUi  of  Richard  the  Second  to  the  tenth  of  Elizabeth, f 
when  it  was  wholly  in  the  hands  of  Sir  John  Delavah  On 
Botfet^  Inland^  opposite  Hartley,  was  fonnerly  a  small  chapel, 
dedicated  to  St.  Mary,  and  a  hennitage,  both  desolated,     Lonl 

Delaval 


•  Hntc.  Vol.  IL 
t  La«noii*s  MS,  f.  -k  t  Wallace,  Tl.  if78. 

!  the  Third  :  lie  dying  without  issue,  in  1771,  Vf9%  mticeedcd  hy  liit 
tTt  Sir  Jplm  HuAsy  DeJaval,  wbo  wa^  created  a  ptrr,  by  iJiP  title  of 
liroa  Deiar^J*  of  Ireland,  and  ofltTwartli  of  ringknd.  He  mariiod  fir»t 
Bhoda  Robin*ODf  liy  whom  he  had  one  mu.  who  died  u  minor.  His  soc^nd 
■ttnitftf;  wnB  la  Miss  Knight,  J&nuary,  idOX  Hi^  lortliihip  died  in  IBUS, 
ifceo  tlie  entailed  e-^tAle  came  to  hh  brother,  Edward  Hussy  Delaval,  ©f 
IMdtiigtmi,  Esq.  it*  |>re<;eut  poito^or^  and  the  per^oujif  prupertj  ivai  be- 
^Kitbed  to  hit  relict. 


66  yORTHUMBERLANO* 

Delavol  formed  a  small  liarbour  bere,  for  refuge  to  ihe  fif*Tici 
in  storms.     The  fucus  lycopodloides  abounds  on  the  stei 
facus  digitalis  on  this  island,  and  along  thu  coast  towards  Tjne* 
mouth. 

Halliwell  was  Utld  by  soccage  tenure  of  the  barony  of 
John  IklioJ,  by  Eustace  Delaval,  whose  descendants  had  pro* 
petty  here  in  H35.  Over  the  door  of  an  old  mansion-house  of 
Kalpli  Bates,  Esq.of  Milburn  House,  is  inscribed  MEDIO  ***.IA 
FIRM  A.  1656,  This  vilhi^^e  has  its  name  from  St,  Mary's  Well„ 
whicli  k  medicinal,  and  turns  to  a  deep  purj^le  with  galls,  • 
Hackvcorih  was  ancietuly  a  possession  of  the  prior  of  Tyne- 
mouth  ;  and,  since  the  dissolution,  has  been  many  yciiTb  the  re« 
fiidcnce  df  the  ancestors  of  R.  W.  Grey,  its  present  owner^ 
who  built  the  new  mansion-house  there-  Burroden^  a  strong  oltf 
fortress,  was  the  seat  of  Bertram  Anderson  in  \B^%\  It 
IS  the  property  of  the  Ogles  of  Cawsey-Park,  but  in  ruins- 

Seguill  was  mistaken,  by  Camden,  for  Segedunum.     It  be- 
longed to  Tynemouth  Priory  in  1097*     A  branch  of  tlie  Mit- 
[ford  family  resided  here,  and  built  the  tower  and  afterwards  a 
'  mansion-house,  both  of  which  are  at  present  in  ruins.     Since 
their  timt  it  belonged  to  the  Allgootls,  of  Kunwick,  who  sold  it 
to  the  late  Sir  Francis  BJake,  of  Twizell  Castle,  Bart* 

South  Blytiie  has  a  commodious  port  for  small  vesselfiJ 
The  bishops  of  Durham  have  jurisdiction  over  the  river  and  the 
wastes,  between  high  and  low  water  marks.  Formerly  they  hi 
royal  rights  upon  it.  The  yearly  rent  for  anchorage  here,  at 
four-peace  a  ship,  in  134-6,  was  only  three  slulltDgs  and  four- 
pence.  The  coal-trade  flourislied  here  during  the  sx^ge  of  New- 
castle ;  but,  after  that,  Gardiner  complained  bitterly  against  the 
corporation  of  that  town  for  impeding  the  commerce,  and  espe- 
cially the  coal-trade  of  Blythe  and  Hartley.  %  That  grievance 
has,  however,  been  removed,  upwards  of  fitly  sail  of  vessels  be* 
ing  registered  here.  The  chapel  of  Blythe  was  built  by  Sir  M, 
W,   Ridley,  Bart,  who  also  provides  a  chaplain  to  it  at    his 

own 

•  WalJL^i,  L  1B>  1 1^%.  March,  p*  t?3.  ;  Eagl.  Gricv.  p.  Itt. 


\  It 
he       ] 


KORniUMBERtANO. 


n? 


©wntjcpehce.  Nermham  was  held,  in  capite,  of  Henry  tlic  ThirtK 
liy  Eustace  Delavnl,  and  belonged  to  one  of  that  family  in  14^0, 
It  wai  the  seat  of  Thomas  Cranilington,  Esq.  in  1567^  whose 
descsendaiit,  Robert,  having  his  estate  sequestered  by  parliament, 
in  \S5%  this  matior^  and  that  of  South  Blythe»  were  purcliased 
liy  Col  Thomas  RutchOf  aad  iM  prci^nt  are  possesuiions  of  Sir 
M.  W-  Ridl^- 

STAN^tflNGTON  was  a  member  of  the  barony  of  Roger  Mer- 
lijf  in  the  reign  iii  Henry  the  Third,  ♦  At  bin  death  it  was  di- 
tided  by  the  niflrriage  of  hiij  daughter,  Mary>  to  Willtam  Lord 
Greptoke,  and  of  Johanna,  to  Robert  de  Somervillc.  TJie 
maiety  which  fell  to  the  Greystokes  descended  to  the  Dacres, 
and  fnnu  thence  to  the  Howards.  The  other  half  went  from 
the  Somen  i lies,  in  the  twenty ^nintli  of  Edward  the  Third,  to 
Sir  **  Rhese  ap  Gnifith,'*  by  Jii^  marriage  with  Joan,  eldest 
^Umghtcr  and  co*heiress  of  Sir  Fbili|)  Somerville ;  and  to  Maud» 
hta  graod-daughter  by  Elizabeth,  ibe  wife  ofJolin  Stafford,  f 
The  Griffiths  for  some  time  had  a  fourth  part  of  tliQ  manor  ; 
iittt  the  whole  of  the  Somerville  moiety  was  in  the  hands  of  llie 
Hiorntons,  of  Netherwitton,  in  1567*$  The  rectory  and  ad- 
of  the  vicarage  were  granted  to  the  abbey  of  Newminster, 
Roger  de  Somerville,  in  l33S ;  and  Roger  de  Mcrlay,  who 
4Icd  JO  1264'#  founded  a  chantry  in  tliis  church  to  the  Blessed 
Ftrgin,  and  endowed  it  with  lands  and  privileges  at  Clifton  and 
Cotdwellf  iu  this  parish.  « 

HoRTOH  chapel  was  formerly  subject  to  Woodhorn,  but 
tarered  from  it  in  1768.  Twa  maiden  sisters  of  Admiral 
George  Delaval  h'ved  in  Horion  Castte^  remains  of  which  were 
existiag  in  1 809,  when  iu  foundations  were  razed  and  its  fosse 
letdbKL  E4ward  the  Firut  pardoned  the  prior  of  TjTif^moulh 
for  acquiring  lands  in  "  Hertford^  Bebcssct  on  Blytlie,  Coopen^ 
^•**  without  Ucense  of  mortmain,  f  BthmU^  after  the  disso- 
lution^ belonged  to  John  Ogle,  Esq*  in  1;>67,  and  to  Edward 

Vol.  XR  H  Delaval, 


L      litttthe 

I  Tliornti 
^kMirsuit 
^HyRog 

I 


•  Tests  de  N€vill,p,  3a3.  t  M4^.  Biif. 

$  Ilj-and*A  Ncwc,  IL  &8. 


X  Li*w.  Ms*,  f  l<3 


NORTftimBlllliAWDt 

Delaval,  Esq*  in  1628.  It  was  soM  to  John  Johnson,  Ewj.  abouC 
the  year  1700,  from  whom  it  dosccnded  to  Mr.  Ward^  ita  pre- 
sent possessor*  Ilarifard-Houiet  the  scat  of  William  BurdoA^ 
Esq,  was  bui!t  afler  a  design  of  Mr.  Stokoo,  architect,  New* 
c  IIS  tie*  It  is  we)}  situated  upon  the  woody  declivities  of  the 
Blythe,  which,  in  this  neighbotirhood,  affords  very  excellent 
landscape.  This  manor  paid  five-pence  farthing  cornage  to 
the  abbey  of  St,  Alban's. 

Bedlikgtonsii  I  RE  IS  B  parish,  in  Chester  ward,  in  the  county 
af  Durham^  and  lies  between  the  rivers  Wansbeck  and  Blythe* 
It  measures  about  191,000  acres,  and,  in  1801,  contained  1196 
persons.     It  was  a  royal  franchise  under  the  biahops  of  Durham, 
and  enjoyed  its  own  courts  and  officers,  till  it  was  stript  of  tho«e 
privileges  by  statute  of  the  twenty-seventh  of  Henry  the  Eighdi; 
in  all  civil  matters  it  is  a  member  of  the  county  of  Durhajn. 
«  Bishop  Cutheard  purchased,  out  of  the  treasury  of  St,  Oath- 
bert,  the  village  of  Bedlington  with  ita  appendages,  Nedertun, 
Grubba,  Twisle,  Bedingtun,  Slic«bume,  and  Commer."  ^     The 
monks  of   Durham,  in  their  ftight  to  Lindisfarne,  before  the 
arms  of  the  Conqueror,  with  the  incorruptible  body  of  St,  Cuth- 
bert,  restetl  all  night  here,  f     The  church  was  appropriated  by 
Bishop  Fam ham  to  the  priory  of  Durham,  in  1242,  when  tho 
stone  roof  of  the  church  of  Durham  was  commenced.  J     Tbe 
Reverend  Francis  Woodmas,  the  cxpojiitor  of  St.  Chrygofttoai^ 
was  vicar  here,  from  1696  to  1719.     Every  plough-land  of  tlie 
fjianar  paid  u  t brave  of  com  to  Kepeir  Hospital,  near  Durkaniy 
about  the  tiniQ  of  Richard  the  Second,  a  claim  which  was  afler* 
war  da  covered  by  an  annua!  payment  of  nine  shdling^u     This, 
and  the  Choppington  farm,  were  purchased  of  the  parliament^ 
in  1659,  by  Robert  Fenwick,  Esq.  for  12961 }     At  the  restora- 
tion, tlie  purchasers  of  the  church  lands  offered  the  king  a  large 
sum  to  conlirm  their  right  for  ninety-nine  years ;  but,  instead  of 

accepting 

•  Sim.  Don.  Col.  75.  t  lb,  Jy.  ;  Hutdn  Dnrh.  II.  74. 

i  Wliitelocke^B  MeiaoritU,  }u  ?T>r 


I 


» 


KOHTHUMBSaLAKn.  9^ 

^ce^img  ii»  he  granted  n  commUsion  for  enquiry  aHer  aU  sucli 
purchases. 

The  Bedlington  blast-furnace,  for  ameUing  Iron,  was  some 
years  amce  taken  down  i  the  concern  belonged  to  the  iMalling^ 
of  Suoderland,  and  was  accounted  very  unsucceftsful.  Mefisr«» 
Uawlcs  and  Co*  of  Gateshead,  afterwards  carried  on  extt-nsive 
^rorlcs  in  wrought  iroD,  both  at  the  Bebsidc  and  Bedlington 
MiilSf  which  at  present  are  the  property  of  Biddulph,  Gordon, 
and  Co,  and  employ  about  fifty  men. 

Blagdon,  Shotton,  and  North-Wee talet,  places  w!iich  had 
l^arly  fiiiuilar  revolutions  of  proprietors  witli  Stannington,  were 
held  by  John  de  Plessis,  in  Henrj^  the  Third^s  time,  of  the  ba- 
rony of  Morpeth,  by  the  service  of  one  knight*s  fee**  Biagdou 
helwifed  to  the  Fenwick's  in  1567;  but,  after  tliey  sold  Litilc 
Hark,  they  had  their  residence  here,  till  they  parted  with  it  to 
the  \VTiiies,  a  family  who  came  from  Hawthorn,  in  the  county 
of  Durham.  Matthew,  who  amassed  con&iderahle  wealth  as  a 
incrdtanr  in  Newcastle,  built  the  house,  whicli  tvas  enlarged 
aiid  ornamented  by  his  son  Matthew,  who  was  created  a  baronet 
ia  1756;  but,  dying  without  issue,  the  estate  went  to  his  ^ter 
Elizabetlt,  wife  of  Matthew  Ridley,  Esq*  of  Heaton,  and  is  at 
present  enjoyed  by  their  son,  Sir  M.  W.  RidJey,  Bart.  Near  iliis 
last  place  is  the  ancient  viUe  and  manor  of  BellamCy  for  whicli 
Rpberl  de  Bellastse  made  service  for  a  third  part  of  a  kuight*s 
fe^»  10  Henr^'  the  Second.  The  SomerviJles  and  Griffiths  had 
pOGSQs^ons  at  it ;  in  the  seventeenth  oi'  Henry  the  Sixth  a  Btl- 
]$sasc  held  half  tlie  manor ;  and  since  that  it  was  for  many  years 
t2i£  residence  of  a  fiimity  of  Bells.  An  uciiuccessfal  attempt 
V3S  a  few  years  ago  made  to  establish  a  manufactory  of  printed 
colto>ns  tt  Stannington  bridge* 
WfiALTOSiis  a  thinly  populated  parish.  The  church  is  an- 
at ;  some  of  the  Ogles  have  been  buried  in  its  chancel:  it 
repaired,  and  parapets  and  pinnacles  added  to  the  tower,  in 
17S3*     The  villagt  is  remarkably  neat  aiid  clean  ;  and  tlie  rec-* 

H  2  lQt*$ 

*  Testa  de  ^f^viil,  p^  mr 


100 


jrORTKUMBERtAKD. 


tor^s  mansion  is  surrounded  with  tastefuT  pleasure-groundii  aud 
,  fine  treefi*     The  baron\f  was  j^iven  by  the  Conqueror  to  Walter 
Filz  William^  one  of  his  followers.    It  was  held  by  service  of 
titree  knights*  fces^     King  John  took  it  from  Robert  de  Cram* 
tnarille,  and  ^oMt  it  to  Roger  Fttz  Roger,  the  last  of  whos«  Mum 
took  the  samameisf  de  Clavering,  but  dying  without  legitimate 
issoe,  he  settled  great  part  of  his  estate  on  Edward  the  Ftr&t,* 
In  1308^  the  king*s  soti  died  seized  of  this  manor^  and  tliat  of 
Newbum.f     The  Scroops  of  Masham  had   it  in  1346 J,  snA 
m  1446.     It  was  a  po^ession  of  the  crown  in  the  reign  of  Jamei 
t!he  First;  but  was  afterwards  granted  to  the  Maggisons 
Wialton,  and  others,    John   Shaw,  author   of  certain  works' 
against  popery*  and  several*  times  a  member  of  the  convocation^ 
was  rector  liere,  in  1645.    There  b  a  remarkable  camp^a  llttW 
to  the  east  of  this  \  illage,  from  which  the  term  Whalton,  or 
Walton,  may  have  probably  originated. 

Oi^le  Castle  has  been  nearly  demolished.  Tlie  remnant  of  it, 
however,  in  its  small  windows,  with  pointed  arches,  suHicientl; 
demonbtratcs  the  time  of  its  building.  It  has  had  a  square 
double  mote  around  it.  The  Ogle  family  were  seated  here  be- 
fore tlic  trnte  of  the  conquest.  Humphrey  de  Ogle  had  a  grant 
of  all  his  property  from  Walter  Fitz  William.  J  Thomas  de  Ogle 
held  his  manor  of  the  barony  of  NVTialton,  by  serdce  of  one 
knight's  fbe  and  a  half;  but,  adhering  to  the  barons  in  their 
rebellion  against  Henry  the  Third,  his  estate  was  extended,  and 
not  recovered  till  the  reign  of  Edward  the  Third,  who>  in  1340, 
granted  license  to  Robert  de  Ogle  to  convert  his  manor-house 
into  a  castle,  and  to  have  free-warren  through  aJl  this  demesne.* 
This  Roger,  by  marriage  with  the  only  daughter  of  Sir  Robert 

Bertram, 
*  Mas.  Brit.  f  Law.  MS.  t  4. 

t  III  Trifiky  Tk!rm,  twtatieth  of  Edward  tfie  Third,  iT  wat  Connd  in  the 
rolls  of  tlic  cxchrfjner  that  Httiry  Lcscro|»  Leld  Uir  manor  of  \\  luillon,  wilii 
the  barony,  in  chi^f,  by  the  service  of  l!ut  r  knij^litV  fe«^  1 1  is  manerittm 
^m  hrnvntAf  whicfi  may  ^ti'nify  that  ihU  niiiuor  was  a  tMitouy,  or  the  aemt 
tf  %  httrony,    Madox,  Bar.  Aug.  fi.  41. 

4  Bonme'i  NVwt,  f».  f  1 1*. 


IT         1 


KORTHUMBERtANU* 


h 


Uertam,  of  Bothal^  became  possessed  of  that  barony;*  after 
whidi  the  property  was  united  till  the  year  1609,  when  Ogle  * 
Wit  sold  to  Thomas  Brown,  Esq.  an  opulent  ship-owner  in 
I«Wldoii«  After  the  battle  oi^  Neville  Cross,  John  Cpptland, 
with  eight  companions,  rode  off  with  David,  King  of  Scots,  and 
after  carrying  him  twenty-five  miles,  arrived  about  vespers  at 
Ogle  Castle,  on  the  river  Blythe*f 

PoMTELATfo,  mistaken  by  Camden  for  the  Roman  station 
Pons  Elii,  has  its  name  from  its  moist  f^ituation  on  the  river 
Font,     Tliec/iurcft  is  dedicated  to  St,  Mary,  and  in  the  appro* 
priaiion  and  a^lvowson  of  Merton  College.     It  is  tn  the  form  of 
M  cam  I  iia  tower  remarkably  broad  and  heavy ;  the  door-way  i* 
the  weit  of  Norman  architecture  j  the  porch  arched,  and  cover* 
td  with  heavy  freestone  flags.     The  arches  in  the  inside  are  all 
pointed*     in  ilie  chancel  windows  are  several  arms  on  painted 
ghiK.     Here  too  are  the  burying-places  and  stones  inscribed  to 
Ibm  meinory  of  the  Goftcns  of  Island  or  Eland  Hall,  the  Hors* 
Wya   of  Milburn-Grange,    the   Oglea  of   Kirkley,    and    the 
Cam  of  Dunston.    The  Lincoln  taxation,  made  about  A.  D. 
1291,  values  "  Pont* Ealand  rectory  at  30h  Is.;  the  prebend  of 
Lord  Charles  de  Betlamont  in  it,  at  2Sl.;  and  that  of  Philip  dc 
WyJcby  at  2<M.  lOs^     There  was  a  chantry  in  this  church,  de- 
dicated to  St-  Mary. J     **  Mr.  Richard  Coate  di^d,  January  the 
third«  1719t  and  left  his  whole  effects,  at  or  about  70l«  per  an- 
num, to  tlie  parish  of  Pont  Island,  for  iL<harity  school,     Mrs. 
Barbara  Coats  built  the  school-house  at  her,owo  charge,"  ||   Tl^e 
barons  of  Mitford  were  lords  of  the  manor  of  Eland-     Gilbert 
de  Eland  held,  in  Eland,  one  ptough-land,  by  tlie  payment  of 
two  pair  of  white  gloves  and  one  lax  ;%  and  lus  descendants  had 
considerable  powei?iions  here  for  mar\y  generations.     The  ville 
of  Ponteland,  with  Eland  Green,  and  lands  in  Meresfen,  were 

H  3  in 


•  Ma^.  Brit.  \  aod  WallLi,  Vol.  IL  p.  551. 

i  3^\me%  Froiiarl,  IL  190.  ti  uq,  %  Tun.  Not.  Mon.  p,  39^. 

f  Hutdi.  State  of,  &c.  p.  56.  ||  Intcrip.  in  the  churth. 

^TcftadcNtfvtU,  p.  3W. 


10*2  KORTKtTMBER^AKOt 

in  the  hands  of  one  Seutynns  in  1567;*  arid  Oie  Errtrlgtoffe, 
of  Errington  Castle,  liad  mi  extensive  estate  here  from  1 597  to 
ITTI',  in  which  year  tTtey  sold  it  to  George  Silvertop,  Esq.  This 
place  was  the  head-quarters  of  the  King  of  Scotland,  in  1^44, 
when  the  English  army  waa  at  Newcastle  ;  and  it  *raa  hi^rc  tTwtt 
a  peace  was  negocialed  between  the  contending  p«rties>  by  t!lfe 
prior  of  Tynemouth,  and  other  ecclcsiastics*f 

'flionias  Burgilon^  in  the  reign  of  Henry  the  Third,  held,  in 
loccagc  tenure,  of  the  barony  of  Mitford/ sixty  acres  of  land  ifi 
KniKLEY,  by  the  payment  of  half  a  mark;  Hugh  Belle  hafl 
irxty  Other  acres,  by  the  same  service ;    ta\d  **  Marieria  de 

[^it'kelaw"  held  a  fourth  part  of  the  village,  by  paying  a  mark 
tmd  a  half4  The  family  of  Eiire,  who  were  lord*  of  Kirkley 
and   barons  of  Witton,  in   the  county  of  Durham,  held  this 

:ianor  in  Edward  the  Second's  reign,  by  annually  presenting  fet 
farbed  arrow  at  the  thanor  court.    They  had  other  valuable  pos- 

Dssions  in  this  nefghbt>urhood.     Several  of  this  family  held  high 

^lUatidns  in  Northumberland.     Bir  Ralph  ^was  in  parliament  fb 

\35\.     Sir  William  ^vas  sheriff  in  1436 ;  and  his  son  Ralph  held 
office  in   15011,  and  was  afterwards  warden  of  the   Eafet 

Marches,  which  olHce  he  filled  with  greftt   crediL     "  He,  witli 

his  friends,  tenants,  and  fren^atits,  maintained  the  Castle  of  Scat- 
borough  for  six  weeks  tigainst  the  northern  rebdls  ;  the  garrison 

iving  fm-  twenty  days  on  bread  and  water*"  He  was  slain  fti  a 
battle  with  the  Scots  on  HalMon  Hill,  m  I4S6.J  This  pUce 
iiasj  for  upwards  of  two  centyries,  been  the  sddt  and  property 

&f  a  branch  of  the  ancient  family  of  the  Ogles.     **  The  man- 
Won-house  makes  a  handsome  iippejirance,  being  a  Square  buiTd- 

ng,  with  wings,  consisting  of  oiRces."     The  landscape,  to  the 
Bt  of  it  is  extensive  and  good, 
Nqhth  MiLBURKK  wiis  hcld  of  the  bardny  of  MTtford,  by 

knights*  service  in  Henry  the  IT^rrd's  time,  by  Simon  de  Dive^ 

tistoii 


•  tsth,  lo  RlU.  f  CJiro.  dc  Mail  p.  207.     Matt.  Pari!«,  p.  6^6. 

I  Testa  tic  Nevill,  p.  38<u 

^  Kid,  Ror.  Hist,  p,  59?*    WrWu,  Vol  II.  p.  554, 


I 


b'OllTttUMBERLAVO,  lOS 

listiNi,  who  'grunted  it  to  the  church  of  Hexham.  Ailer  tlte 
dittoltttion  Bartiiram  Anderson,  of  Milhtme  Graji^e^  procured 
pMMBsions  here  of  Edward  the  Sixth,  and  conveyed  them  to 
Edwurd  Horgley,  whose  descendants  hove  been  seated  here  ever 
mnm>  ^*  Millebvrne  dpi  Suth*'  wes  also  a  member  of  the 
Morpeth  bvony^  arui  held  of  it  by  knights'  service  by  Robert 
dc  Meneville.  Thomas  Bates  held  it  in  1567  ;  this  family  were 
formerly  iteated  at  Halliwell*  One  of  them  waa  superviaor  of 
^oeen  Ehzabeth's  property  hi  this  county;  and  another  of 
tbao  a  member  of  parliament  for  JVforpeth.  Miilturm  Home^ 
their  present  re«idence,  waa  built  in  1809,  by  Ralph  Bates,  Esq. 
from  designs  by  Mr.  P^jterson,  of  Edinburgh,  architect*  The 
looms  in  it  are  all  oval,  and  elegance  and  utility  have  b^en  hap** 
pily  ttnited  through  the  whole  structure. 

Newburne, — Osulph,  enraged  at  being  deprived  of  the 
airldom  of  Northumberland,  betook  himself  to  the  wood*  and 
mountains;  but  afterwards  collecting  a  few  of  his  associatci*  in 
want  and  disgrace,  he  besieged  Newbuene,  where  Copsi  his 
livtl^  was  tumultUQUsly  enjoying  lumself  with  his  friends.  Coptt 
tbok  refuge  m  the  church;  but  tJie  revenge  of  his  antagonist 
was  not  to  be  soflened  by  dread  of  lieaven  or  ecclesiaaticAl  con- 
•are ;  fire  was  applied  to  the  sacred  edifice,  and  the  earl  in  at- 
tempdng  to  escape,  was  seized  and  murdered*  This  happened 
on  the  third  of  the  ides  of  March,  1072.  This  was  one  of  die 
Kortbumbrian  churches,  lield  of  Henry  the  First,  by  Kichard 
fe  Aorea  Valle^  and  whicl*  that  monarch  gave  to  the  canons  of 
the  church  of  Carlisle.  Except  the  tombs  of  tlie  Delavals  of 
Korth  DiBsington  it  contains  little  wortliy  of  notice. 

The  village  or  bormigh  of  Newburne  paid  a  fcc^farm  rent  of 
dilrty  pounds  a  year  to  Richard  the  First.  His  successor  John, 
fa  ISOl,  raised  their  rent  to  fifty  pounds ;  and,  on  account  of  pnvi- 
Ifgesand  exemptions  they  enjoyed,  imposed  a  fine  upon  them  oi* 
fiitoen  marks,  and  two  palfreys.  As  the  tide  flows  past  this 
flaeei  its  commerciid  consequence  might  have  been  cx[»ected 
Co  have  kept  pace  with  the  times;  but  Newcastle,  which  in  the 

H  i  thirteenth 


m 


KOUT  H  UM  B  E  R  L  A  S*  IX 


thirteenth  centufy  paid  only  a  sixth  more  rent  than  N^whurnc^' 
reaped  too  iniiny  royal  fiivours  fmr  a  rival  to  thrivf  in  tts  neigh*  j 
boitrhood*  The  «ia»or,or,  ad  it  is  sometinnes  c'>ilJed»  the  barony  of^ 
Kewbunie,  lias  had  the  same  revolution  of  possessors  bs  Wark- 
worth,  from  Uobert  FiU  Roger,  m  the  lime  of  Henry  the  Third^n^ 
to  the  present  day.     Ou   the  twenty-eighth  of  August,   le^O**" 
tliere  waa  a  sharp  conflict  here  between  the  armies  headed  by 
Lord  Conway  and  General  Lesly.     **  Tlie  Scotch  pitched  their 
tentson  HeddorF  Law,  above  Newboume,  from  whence  th^re  went 
a  continued  descent  to  the  river  of  Tyne-  In  the  nighl  time  they 
made  great  fires  in  and  round  about  the  camp,    in  an  open- 
moorish  ground  (having  coals  plenty  thereabouts)  so  that  the*% 
camp  seemed  to  be  of  large  compass  and  extent.'*     Vestiges  i>f*1 
this  encampment  appear  very  fair  a  little  south-east  of  Heddon^ 
Law,  on  Throck!ey  Fell.     The  king's  army  cotisis^ting  of  iJfXX)' 
foot,  and  1 500  horse,  were  drawn  up  on  Stella  Ha  ugh,  opposite 
Kewburne.     Their  Ime  extended  near  a  mile,  and  tlicy  had. 

[thrown  up  breast    works,    at  the    two  fords,  to   oppose   the- 
possage  of  tlie  Scotch,  at  low-water*     Lesly,  unknown  to  tlie* 
English,  planted  nine  pieces  of  cannon  on  the  tower  of  tlie.^ 
dmrch,   and  placed   his  inuisqueteers  in   the  church,   houses,. 
lana«c,  and  hedges,  in  and  about   Newbyrne*     These  cannon^ 

[Says    liurnett,  were  made  of  bar-iron,  hooped,  like  a  barrel,* 
with  cords,  and  wet  rawhides.     They  were  carried  on  horse*] 

t  back,  and  bore  several  discharges.  After  tliese  had  played  awhile 

I  upon  the  English  breast-works,  und  exposed  their  army  to  the 
Bre  of  the  musquetry,  hi§  soldiers  began  to  raunnur,  and  Con- 
ray  sounded  a  retreat.     CommiHsary  Wilmot,  Sir  John  Digby, 

"and  Daniel  O'Neal,  being  commiinded  to  bring  up  the  rtar, 

were  surrounded  and  made  prisoners ;  but  were  nobly  treated  by. 
Lesly,  and  had  afterwards  liberty  to  return  to  the  king's  army. 
This,  says   Clarendon,  was  an  irreparable  rout*     Conway  waj* 

accused  of  co'.vardice  and  treachery,  and  made  a  most  uiiserable 

defence  against  tlie  charge*^ 

North 
*  Rtishwortlj !«  Colkclionf,  p.  123 k*    WfailbcLs  Mnuoir^,  p.  34. 


J 


I 


» 


KOAtlCUMB£ltLAXI>.  lOS 

Korth  and  South  Digsiugtons  w«re  maoors  and  aeais  of  the 
Dclavalti  soon  after  tlie  conquest.  Eih^ard  Dclaval,  wlio  was 
page  to  Charles  the  Second,  lived  at  South  Diulngton ;  and  the 
pliice  fltiil  continues  in  the  family.  Admiral  Delaval  was  hotn 
Hi  North  Diuingion,  He  sold  it  to  the  Colimgwoods,  from 
whom  it  de&cendedy  by  bequef^tj  to  Waiter  Spencer  Stanhope, 
Etq.  of  Caimon  Hail,  Yorkshire,  its  present  possessor.  The 
dli^iel  here,  .which  was  subject  to  Tynemouth^  has  been  many 
years  neglected ;  tliough  the  estate  continues  to  pay  a  small 
modus  in  lieu  oftythes,  as  if  a  chaplain  was  still  maintained* 

WotsiNCTON,  an  ancient  posst-ssion  of  the  priory  of  Tync- 
mouth,  belonged  to  the  Jenrjitsons,  in  Queen  Elizabeth's 
reign.  They  sold  it  to  James  Dagnia,  Esq.  of  Cleatlon  Hall, 
10  the  county  of  Durham*  a  celebrated  amateur  in  painting;  and 
of  Itim  it  was  purchased  by  the  ancestors  of  the  present  possessor, 
MattJiew  BelJ,  Esq, 

D&MTON  was  a  manor  of  the  barony  of  Wlialtonj  in  Henry 
the  Third's  time,*  In  1380  it  was  given,  with  "  Itedwod,  near 
Newburne,"  to  the  prior  of  Tynemouth,  by  Adade  Fenrother.f 
Soon  after  the  reformation  we  find,  in  the  Ibt  of  grand  jurors, 
a  fiuudy  of  Errington's  residing  here*  From  them  it  passed  to 
the  Rogers,  the  last  of  whom  married  the  daughter  of  Sir  Jolm 
DelovaJ,  of  Hartley,  and  tlied  without  ii^sue.  His  estate  being 
divided,  this  portion  fell  to  the  Honourable  Edward  Montague^ 
Earl  of  Sandwich,  and  husband  of  Lady  Mary  Wortley  Mob< 
tague,  who  fitted  up  the  old  hall  in  the  iiothic  style.  Vest i get 
af  a  chapeJ,  and  a  cemctry,  as  also  a  sepulchral  stone,  inscribed 
with  a  sword  and  flowered  crosier,  were  found  here  about 
thirty  years  since.  By  the  rivulet  east  of  this  place,  a  piece  of 
the  Koman-watl  is  still  remainkig;  and  about  ^00  yards  of  it 
were  lately  razed  here,  when  two  centurial  stones,  each  inscribed 
C.  IVLl  UVFI,  I.  e,  Centurio  Juli  Ruii,  were  dug  up. 

At  Lemmington  are  extensive  manufactories  of  crowi#Bnd 
iJint  glass;    as  also  the   Ti/ne  iron*tuorks  which  employ   about 

two 


•  Now,  Feod*  p*  *t%. 


t  Brand's  Ncwc,  Vol,  II.  p.  VT. 


I 


hundred  men,  and  annually  produce  abAt 
©f  iron.     At  Scotchwood  a  mile  below  this  place  Lord  Duii' 
donald  established  the  first  apparatus  for  extracting  tar  from  pit^ 
coals. 
Heddon  on  the  Wall. — Walter  dc  Bolbec  gave  to  the  church 

I  of  St.  Margaret  at  BlancWand,  and  to  the  canons  serving  God 

\  there^  the  right  of  patronage  to  the  church  of  St,  Andrew,  At 
Heddon^  with  all  its  appurtenaticies,  for  the  good  of  the  soul  of  ^ 
his  father,  Walter.  The  deed  of  grant  b  witnessed  by  his  mother^  ^" 
his  brother,  Hugh  de  Bolbec,  and  others*     The  east  end  of  the 
chancel  of  this   churchy  is  a  ueat  specimen  of  pure   Normaa  i 
architecture ;    the  other  parts  of  the  ediiice  are  all  Gothic* 
Wlien  the  military  way  wa*  made  through  this  vilUige,  in  1752, 

'  ft  large  and  very  valuable  collection  of  silver  and  cofj^per  Komaii 
coini  and  medals  were  found  in  tlie  Roman  wall  h^re,  deposited  J 
in  wooden  boxes,  which  were  much  decayed,  *     Hie  fftmtars  of  i 

k!f«ddon  on  the  Wail,  East  ahd  West  Hedwin,  Whitchester,  and 
Houghton,  mth  Its  members,  were  parcels  of  the  barony  of  J 
Boibec,  in  the  reigii  of  Henry  tlte  Hiird.  f 

Clos£  House,  making  part  of  the  manor  of  Houghtofi, 
formerly  a  chapeU  tbundcd  by  the  UHtcliffes  of  Carlington  Castle^  j 
and  endowed  with  the  lands  which  comprise  tlje  present  estate*  1 
At  the  reformation  it  reverted  to  the  Katcliffes,  and  was  by  I 
them  sold  to  the  Reeds  ;  and  of  the  Heeds  purchased,  in  1620,1 
by  Robert  Bewicke,  Esq.  an  opulent  merchant  in  Newcastle,] 
^'ho  had  his  residence  rtt  Bewicke*s  Entry,  in  the  Ch^r,  This  ] 
inansion  is  very  delightfully  situated  on  the  north  batik  of  th^ 
Tyne.  It  was  built  in  1779,  when  the  old  chapul,  which  stood! 
6n  the  site  of  the  bow-window,  at  the  east  end  of  the  Imusc,^ 
was  pulled  down.     It  is  one  of  the  seats  of  C,  Bewicke,  Esq. 

Robert  de  la  Val,  and  Kiclmld,  his  mother,  about  the  ycat 
1140,  gave  half  the  village  of  Achewic,  now  ciilkd  IWhvfrkt  it 
the%mrch  of  Hexham.  This  same  RIchaUl,  afterwards,  cou- 
ftrmed  to  them  all  her  right  of  the  other  moiety  of  this  village}] 

and 
•  Hut(f.  Vol,  11.  p.  4r,9,  t  Testa  de  Xevil^  p.  :18l^. 


xofcttnmsEtitAVD, 


107 


I 

I 
I 


I 


ihd  other  bctie&ttars  encreased  their  ]^osKe$$iofts  here  ffUPttr  rfm 
diiiolution.  The  manor  and  hall  were  pnrchased  of  the  crcm-n  hf 
John,  second  son  of  Sir  John  Fenwick,  of  Walhngton.  They  de» 
ficendeclby  the  femalelhiefirom  him  to  Ralph  ScourfieW,  E«q>ifooiit 
1670,  imd  from  him  to  Edward  Bell, of  Bellasisf  >  Es4^.  whose  Mcst 
(ktightery  and  co-heiress,  married  George  Spearman,  Ei«|.  of 
Prestdn^  near  North  Shield*?,  tJie  fathtfi  of  Ralph  ^Spcurmtn, 
E«q,  the  present  possessor.  In  nuiking  a  road  through  att  old 
camp  near  tlits  seat»  several  hand  mill-stoiics,  a  sacrificing  khite, 
and  a  flint-ax,  similar  to  the  pattoo  of  the  South  Sea  iilanda, 
*cre  discovered,  and  at  presetit  «re  hi  the  polslfeBsSon  tjf  Mn 
Spearman.  Whhchentcr  w-^r,  for  many  generations,  the  seat  of 
the  Turpfm,  a  fkmDy  allied  to  the  RatclifTcfi,  Dckvals,  Rout- 
cheaters,  ^-c-  In  a  large  c«/r;/,  on  Tttrpin^s  HHl^  m  1771,  a 
stotie  ch^t  was  found  enclosing  nothing  but  a  Smalt  quantity  of 
ash^  and  burnt  bones.  In  1795,  another  of  these  chests  wal 
fotind  'hi  ihe  same  cairn :  it  contained  ttvo  urns,  and  ccrppcr 
C0f dd  of  Domitiati,  Amo^inns  Pms,  and  Einstma,  which  arft 
t  Eadmick  Hall,  There  aare  idso  cmrious  tttmuH  at  Heddon 
Law  and  De^^ly  Law. 

South  Tixdale. — Tlie  parish  of  Kirkhaugh  lies  in  south  Tin- 
dale,  and  at  the  soutli-west  extremity  of  Northumberland.  Culti- 
vation here  is  confined  to  the  borders  of  the  river,  from  which  the 
mountains  on  each  side  rise  witli  a  rapid  but  irregular  ascent.  The 
diurch^  a  neat  but  humble-looking  edifice,  is  placed  in  a  meadow, 
oa  the  j^outhcrn  marginof  theTyne*  Tliestone  coffin,  and  the  altar, 
dedicated  to  Minerva  and  Hercules,  were  some  years  since  either 
removed  or  destroyed.  The  Tyne,  in  these  parts,  is,  as  Froissart 
describes  it,  "exceedingly  rough  and  stoncy,'^  It  rises  very 
suddenly  during  heavy  rains,  and  almost  as  suddenly  fdls  in  fair 
reather.  Nearly  opposite  to  the  church  is  Whitki/  Castle^  a  Ro- 
man station,  which,  on  the  authority  of  the  Notitia,and  the  cor- 
roborating evidence  of  an  inscription,  Mr.  Horsley  pronounced 
to  be  AlwnCf  garrisoned  by  the  third  cohort  of  the  Nervii ;  ♦  but 

recent 

•  Brit.  RoD^  pp.  110,  455. 


103  NOltTNt^MBBRLAKlX 

recent  inqumes  fiave  refuted  this  opinion.     That  the  place  wa» 
once  of  considerable  importance,  the  inscriptions  found  at  it,  and 
it*  present  remains  abundantly  testify,     Its  walls  enclose  iin  area 
of  nearly  nine  acres,  and  have  been  defended,  on  the  west,  by 
ten  different  brcast-works,  each  resembUng  a  nght-angled  trian- 
gle, the  hypothenuse  of  which  faces  inwards.  These  have  partly 
extended  to  the  north  and  south  sides,  and  two  of  tJiem  have 
girded  the  whole  area  of  the  station  ;   from  which  the  ground 
slopes  on  every  side  but  the  west,  and  on  the  east  ratlier  rapidJy. 
A  year  ago  the  remains  of  a  very  fine  sudatory  were  discovered 
al  its  north-east  corner,  out  of  which  issues  a  ckmr  and  plcniiful 
spring.     Many  of  the  pillars  of  the  hypocaustum  were  standing, 
covered  with  large  thin  slabs  of  freestone,  and  a  strong  cal- 
careous cement,  in  our  visit  to  this  place  in  September,  iBl 
The  Maiden- Way  passes  the  east  wall  of  the  station,  at  the  dis* 
lance  of  about  tifly  yards.     Between  this  way  and  the  north- 
east corner  of  the  station,  about  five  years  since,  an  altar,  bear- 
ing the  following  inscription,  was  found  fixed  in  a  socket  like  th# 
pedestal  of  a  cross  ;  and  near  it,  at  the  same  time,  were  disco*' 
vered,  the  head,  a  hand»  and  feet  of  a  colossal  statoe  ;— 


Id 


DEO 

HERCVLI 
C.  VITELLIVS 
ATTICIANVS 

C.  LEG  Ti 
V,  P,  F. 

Deo  K^rcitli  C^m  Vitellint  Atlicianni  renturio  Icgi^ni*  stxts  ntHt'u 
pofiens  fecit ;  irr,  itx\m  votum  perficienA  fecit* 


On  the  ri^ht  side  of  this  al^ar  is  a  rude  figure  of  Hercules^] 
fighting  with  a  serpent,  twisted  round  a  tree;  and,  on  the  left^ 
the  samz  deity  k  represented,  strangling  a  serpent  in  each  hand« 
The  original  is  at  an  ale-house  near  the  station  :  it  has  a  square 
hole  in  its  top  ,  and  the  fagments  of  the  statue,  in  all  Hkelihood^^ 
appertained  to  one  of  Hercules,  which  had  been  fixed  upon  tbfe 


NORTHITMBCRLAZID. 


10^ 


» 


^Ur.     The  most  remarkable  iuscriptioa  that  t}m  place  ha*  af- 
Ibrdbdl  b  given  by  Camden  in  this  manner ; — 

IMP.  CARS.  Lttcii  Septimi  Severi  Ara 

BICL  ADIABENICI    PAKTHICF, 

MAX.  FIL,  DIVr  ANTONINI  Pii  Gcrmwici 

SARMA.  NEP,  DIV*  ANTONINI  PIl  PRON 

DIVI  HADRIAJ^I  ABN,  DIVI  TRAIANI 

PARTH.  ET  DIVI  NERV^  ADNEPOTI 

M.   AVRELIO  ANTONINO  PIO 

FEL,  AVG.  GERMAN  ICO  PONT.  MAX. 

TR.  POT..X-IMP--COS.  nil.  P.  p.-* 

RRO  PIETATE  AEDE.**.   VOTO--- 

COMMVN I  CVRAN 1 E 

LEGATO  AVG. 

PR.-COH.  m.  NERVIO-.. 
RVM-a  R.  POS. 

Camdeii  calls  k  an  imperfect  inscription,  in  abbreviated  and 
complicated  characters.  The  original  haii  probably  been  de* 
•trojed*  Mr,  Hori^ley,  however,  found  a  copy  of  it  at  Appleby^ 
ttd  haa^giveii  this  reading  of  it : — 

^  Impeimtoris  Caesarii  Lncii  Screri  Arubfci  Adtabe&ict  Parikici  maximi 
iif»«tivi  Aiitoniii]  Pit  Siamiattci  u^poti  divi  Anto«imi  Pii  pronepoli  divi  Hi^ 
MuiabDepoti  diviTnjani  Parthkietdivi  Nervae  idnepoti  Marco  Aurelio 
ADtonioo  Pio  filici  A  a  gusto  Germanivo  print  ifici  rmlx^mlJ^  tribnnitix  potcj^- 

tilb  deciiaiiBi imperatorf-  -  •  'COD&uti  quortum  patji  patriae  pro  pietarr 

9^iiem  ex  voto  comnmni  curiuti  legato  AugmtaLi  coliors  tcrtia  Ncrvtontm 
(i€njo  Romap  po^nli.^ 

By  this,  says  Camden,*  we  Icarn,  that  the  third  cohort  of  the 
Xenrii  erected  here  a  palace  to  the  Emperor  Antonmus,  son  of 
Sfiverus ;  and  Horsley  observes,  **  that  if  this  temple  has  been 
erected  to  Caracal! a,  it  has  been  dedicated  to  him  as  the  Geniu^ 
of  Home,  or  of  the  Roman  people :  a  fluttering  compliment 
too  often  paid  by  them  to  their  emperors.  The  inicriptlon 
wai  erected  in  the  year  213,"  ^  We  think  that  G.  ft.  POS. 
in  the  luat  line,  should  be  read  gratis  posuit.  Horsley  al» 
80  found  here  a  fragment  of  an  inscription,  which  likewise  re- 
ferred 
•  Gvogfi't  Ed.  Vol*  III.  ji.  177*  *  Brit  R*ym.  p,  *5a 


110  K«ITHPM0£RLA}W« 

ftrred  to  Caracalln.  And  there  was,  in  his  timCt  a  c^nturiii 
I  tone  here,  inscribed  VEX.  LEG.  xx,  V,  V.  REFEC. ;  and  m 
the  church-yard  of  Kirkhaugh,  an  altar  dedicated  DEAE 
MINERVAE  ET  HERCVLI  VICTOR,   Over  tlie  «table-door 

of  the  above  ptibhc-house,  is  aii  altar,  on  which  are  carved  a  pa- 
tera and  urceolusi.  The  area  of  the  station  is  covered  with  irregu- 
lar heaps  of  ruin :  no  stratum  of  stone  appears  within  several  miles 
similar  to  its  remains*  Thornhope,  f,  e,  the  Castle-brook,  runs  a 
little  lo  tlie  east  of  this  place,  and  derives  its  name  from  it. 

The  parish  aud  village  of  Knabesdale,  derive  their  name 
fVom  the  Knarcy  a  stoney  brook  on  the  east  side  of  tJie  village. 
The  meadows  by  the  Tyne,  about  thig  place,  arc  very  fertile ; 
and  the  woods  upon  its  banks  healthy  and  luxuriant.  WiJliam- 
ston  and  a  few  other  spots  on  the  river  are  remarkably  sweet 
and  sequestered.  The  mountains  on  each  side  arc  lofty,  and 
thdr  heads  covered  with  heath.  The  church  has  an  ancient 
appearance,  and  the  ground  about  it  is  irregular  as  if  it  had 
been  covered  witli  buildings  or  encampments.  The  manor  of 
Knaresdale  was  forfeited  by  John  Pratt,  and  granted  to  Sir  R. 
Swinburne,  by  Edward  the  First,  in  1279,  from  whose  family 
k  passed  in  Queen  Elizabeth's  reign,  to  William  Wallace,  of 
Copdand  Castle,  Esq.  by  his  marrriage  to  Eleanor  pecond 
daughter  of  John  Swinburne,  Esq,  of  EiUingham.  It  wns 
aold  by  Robert  W^allace  to  Alderman  Stephenson,  of  New- 
castle,* of  whose  son  it  was  purchased  by  the  late  Mr.  Wallace, 
i»f  Feathers  to  neb  augh  Casile,  Knaresdale  Hail  is  ruinated* 
The  forest  was  anciently  extensive  and  well  replenished  witji 
red-deer,  the  breed  of  which  is  nearly,  if  not  altogether,  extinct 
in  these  parts.  **  I  Iiavc  seen,'*  says  WallLs,  "  about  five  or 
six  in  company,  never  more."  f  On  the  side  of  a  mountain, 
called  ISnowhope,  is  a  strong  medicinal  spring, 

Lambley  was  anciently  a  small  house  of  Benedictine  nuns.' 
It  b  uncertain  who  was  its  founder.  King  John,  in  1200,  con- 
(irnied  a  grant  of  Adam  de  Tindole,  9^d  Heloise,  hia  wife,  to 

God 
•  W*|]it.  Vol,  IL  IV*  f  Ibid,  Vol.  L  p,  40«. 


IfORTItir^IBSRLAlfn.  Ill 

Cfodv  St«  Mary,  St  Parrick,  and  thenunt  of  Lambley*  of  right 
of  patturage  on  botli  eidei  the  Tyne,  in  their  manor  of  Latnbley, 
and  tbe  chapel  of  SandibumeBek»  with  four  acred  of  land*  in 
the  aanie  pl«cQ,  and  the  tythes  and  offerings ;  aa  atoo  the  dona* 
tiofiv  of  BeneringSy  and  Sandiburn^^^le  made  by  Heliae,  nephew 
of  Uic  faid  Adam,^  They  had  a  fifth  part  of  the  village  of 
Widen*  and  certain  poe^eisians  in  Nei^coatle.  f  Thb  place  and 
lis  neighbourhood  were  miserably  burni  and  wasietl*  by  a  roir* 
iDg  army  of  Scot^,  in  1296.|  At  the  dissolution  tt  had  six 
■ittu,  and  a  yearly  income  of  5h  l^s.  8d.  £d\Tard  tlte  Sixth 
franlad  it  to  Dudley*  Earl  of  Northumberlandp  but  on  hia 
BttaiDder  it  reverted  to  the  crown,  and  compridcd  part  of  tht 
of  Featherstonehaugh  Cattle  in  1567*$  It  ai\erwarda 
the  seat  of  the  Allgoods,  of  Nunwick*  in  whofie  pos- 
it ia  at  present.  The  Tyne  ran  amongst  the  wo  lb  of  the 
in  Camden's  time;  and  has  now  swept  away  all  afipear- 
tacft  of  it.  This  ia  a  spot  of  great  loveliness.  Between  tlie 
liver  and  the  old  residence  of  the  Allgoods,  is  an  ash-tree  often 
tntnkSy  all  sprung  from  one  stock,  and  each  of  great  height, 
llMckfiesSt  and  foliage  of  the  most  exquisite  L^htness*  The 
§hapet  of  Lambley  stands  among  a  few  poor  cottages  called 
iikrpertown ;  aod  is  certainly  one  of  tbe  most  humble  of  the 
jawghfers  of  our  religion.  Opposite  Harpertown  is  an  old 
fortress  called  CasiU-hill^  defended  on  three  sides  by  the  oa^ 
tural  slope  of  the  river  bank*  and  on  tlie  fourth  by  a  deep,  dry 
Irencb. 

Haltwhistlk.*— The  parish  churchy  pleasantly  situated  on 
the  aouth  side  of  the  town,  is  dedicated  to  the  Holy  Crosa.  A 
Uiion  current  about  this  place  has  handed  down,  that  the 
was  once  situated  on  the  south  side  of  the  river*  on  a 
pace  of  ground  called  the  Church  Close*  but  that  it  waa 
away  by  the  Tyne;  we  appreliend  that  the   Church 

Close 

•  DilF*  Mon.  Aag.  p.  506.    Stev.  abr.  p.  62. 

t  WftUis,  Vol.  IL  p.  19.     Braod  ji  Newc.  Vol.  L  p.  544* 

I  Kiii|tl»t<»»>  Col.  PIR%        $  Law.  MS.  f.  S0« 


112 


flORTMlfMBEHLAN0. 


Close  was  the  site  of  a  chapdl,*    for    the    use   of  tnc 
habitants  on  the  soutli  side  of  the  river,  like  that  at  chap 
houses,   whjchf  on   Speed's    map,  is  marked  opposite    Larnb- 
ley.     The  tomb«  in  this  church,    indeed,   prove  its  high  an- 
tiquity.    Over  one  of  the  Bleukiiisops'  is  one  of  those  funen^H 
•  inscriptions  in  use  before   the  common  people  were  able   I^H 
read.     It  is  inscribed  with  the  family  arms,  a  large  and  well 
executed    flowered    crosier,    a  broken    hiked   Kword,   and 
staff  and  script;  aJI  which,   while  it  proves  the  antiquity  of  tl 
church,  shows  that  the  person,  over  whoM  remains  this  Moi 
was  placed,  had  hoiiourably  passed  from  a  military  to  a  religio 
life,  and  thut  he  had  made  a  pilgritnage.     HtTe  h  also  an  altai 
tomb  with  tlm  innription  i—**  John  Rcdle  that  sum  tim  did  he  tin 
Laird  of  the  Walton  gon  is  he  aut  of  thh  val  of  mesre  hi* 
lies  under  fhis^an^  1562.'*      This  John  Ridley  was  brother 
the  celebrated  martyr,  Dr,  Nicholas  Ridley,    Bishop  of  h 
don.     Th<-'  rectorial  possessions  of  this  church  were  granted 
royal  charter,  in  1S83,  to  tlie  priory  of  T}Tiemouth;  and  are 
present  in  different  lay  hands.     The  ediiice  consists  of  a  nave» 
two  side  aifilee,  and  a  chancel ;  and  has  lately  undergone  con* 
side rable  repairs.     The  village  contained,  in  1801,  nlncty-eigl 
houses  and  six  hundred  and  twenty-eigltt  inhabitants.     It 
a  market  on  Thursday,  and   falrii  on  the  fourteenth  of  Mi 
and   the  twenty-second  of  November*     Over  the  door  of  tl 
School-house  is  inscribed — This  charity-school  was  founded 
the  Right  Honourable  Dorothy  Chftpei,  Baroness-Dowager 
Tewkesbury,   &c,  and  this   house  was  granted  by   the   Re 
Tltomas  Pate,  about  A-  D.  172'J.     At  the  cirsi  end  of  the  vill 
is  a  remarkable  oval  nniund,  called  tlie  Castvl  Banks^  havii 
a  fine  spring   tn  its  centre,   and  at  each  end  four  gradatioi 
of  terraces  from    the    natural    surface    to    its  summit,    the 
north  aide  of  which  is   defended   by  a  breast-work  of  eartli^ 
and  the  south  by  a  steep  declivity.      Not  far  from  this  there 
is  also    another    curious    oblong    Iitil    apparently   lactitious, 

and 
»  Sc«  Uh  lu  Vol.  VII.  f.  C'A 


KOAt  H  CJMBERLA  KD« 


113 


mid  ealled  the  Schtil  Hill.  .  There  are  two  old  turreted 
buildings  in  this  town,  strongly  charactert^stic  of  the  inse- 
curity and  jealousy  of  the  border  times  ;  and  half  a  mile  to  the 
east  of  it  a  large  square  Roman  castra  oestiva,  called  Whit- 
cheater,  and  defended  on  three  sides  by  deep  rugged  glens* 

B£LLISTER  Castle,  on  the  southern  banks  of  the  river, 
opposite  Halt  whistle,  at  present  consists  of  a  rude  and  crumbling 
maw  of  ruins,  overshadowed  by  an  enormous  sycamore.  U 
itanda  on  a  high  artificial  mound,  and  has  been  surrounded  by  a 
broad  fos8.  The  landscape  around  it  is  good,  the  faekts  rich, 
aad  the  banks  woody.  It  was  the  seat  of  Thomas  Blenkinsop* 
in  1551,  and  of  George  in  1567.  At  present  the  manor  be* 
longs  to  Cuthhert  EUtson,  Esq.  of  flebburn  Hall,  Durham, 
and  tlie  cattle  and  estate  to  Mrs.  Bacon,  of  Newbrough* 

Blekkiksof  Castle  is  on  the  west  side  of  the  Tippal 

The  country  around  it  has  a  cold  and  naked  appearance.     It 

is  built  upon  a  Uttle  eminence,  and  has  been  defended  by  a  deep 

df}*  ditch  on  the  north  and  west ;  on  the  south  by  the  chamber  of 

a  rivulet,  and  on  the  east  by  a  steep  bank.     The  buildings  have 

consisted  of  a  square  tower,  built  upon  vaults,  and  surrounded  by 

A  high  outward  wall  at  the  distance  of  four  yards.     Though  it 

tt  miserably  ruined,  a  few  rooms  of  it  are  still  tenanted  by  two 

poor  families.     The  stones  of  which  the  tower  has  been  built 

hive  the  same  character  as  those  found  in  Roman  stations,  and, 

»•  suppose,  have  been  brought  from  Caervoran,     In  two  places 

we  found  the  letters  P.  N,  which  are  probably  only  the  initials 

of  some  modem  name. 

An  altar  bearing  this  mscripdon,  in  the  beginning  of  the  last 
^Dtury  was  at  this  place  : — 

DEABVS  N\Ttf 
FHIS  VET-- 
MANSVETAE- 
LAVDIATVR     - 
mU.  FIL.  V.  S.  L. 


1 


Y0L.XII. 


It 


*  Ijtg,  Msrdi,  pp.  160,  161. 


114»  KOHTHUMITBRLAWIJ. 

It  is  at  present  m  the  garden  wall  of  the  inn  at  Glenwhelt,  a 
small  village  a  little  to  the  north  of  this  place  ;  where,  also,  is  the 
collossal  headj  measuring  five  feet  in  circunifbrencei  which 
Hutchinson  saw  near  Thirwoil  Castle.  The  right  Bide  of  this 
altfir  is  woni,  as  if  it  had  heen  used  in  a  staircase.  Mr.  Hors- 
ley  readiB  it  thus; — Deabus  Nymphis  Vetia  Mansueta  ct 
Claudia  Turbiniila  filia  votum  solvcrunt  libentes.  Thii^  estate, 
in  the  time  of  Henry  the  Third,  was  held  by  Ralph  Blenkinsop, 
af  Nicholas  de  Bolthy,  Baron  of  Tindule,  by  the  annual  jmy- 
ment  of  half  a  mark,  and  is  at  present  in  the  posseAsion  of  hia 
descendant,  J.  Blenkinsop  Coulson,  Esq,  oi'  Blenkinsop  Castle, 
a  mansion  which  he  has  lately  byilf»  at  Dryburnhaugh,  on 
the  es&i  side  of  the  Tippal^  and  opposite  to  the  old  faroilf 
residence. 

FrATHERSTONEHAuon    Castle    (i*  e*    the   castle  in   the 
meadow  where  the  atones  are  stratified  featherw!se»  m  in  the 
bed  of  thte   Tyne    at  Hartleyburne    Foot)    nm  the  seat  of 
Thomas  de  FcfhcrUonehaitghf  in  I  he  time  of  Henry  the  Third, 
and  held  by  him  of  the  barony  of  Tindale,  by  the  yearly  payment 
of  SIX  shillings  and  eight*pence.*     The  manor  T^ii?  sonte  year* 
since  sold  to  the  Earl  of  Carlisle ;  but  the  estate  continued  in 
the  family  till  it  was  sold  by  Sir  Matthew  FetherMonehaugh,  <>f 
Up  Park,  in  Sussex,  Bart,  to  the  father  of  its  present  possesscMr, 
l^ie  Ri^it  Honcrarable  Thomas  Wallace.     Thfe  edifice,  likt 
most  of  the  hordet  castles,  had  a  ditch  around  it,  and  cohststed 
of  a  strong  tower,  buik  upon  arches,  and  ftn-nished  with  tufrets* 
Mr.  Wallace  has  added  three  smaller  towers,  and  a  suit  c^ 
ofHces,  which,  with  the  garden  wall,  are  executed  ih  the  casti- 
lated  st}'le,  and  make  a  bold  and  intereisting  appearan«?e,     ft 
fronts  tlie  narrow  vale  of  H«tl^tirne,  through  which,  and 
over  the  rocky  and  finely  hooded  bimks  of  the  Tyne,  are  seen 
till?  high  and  heatliy  summits  of  Tindale  and  Byres  Fell.    The 
meadoAvs   around    it  are  lincomm  only  rich;  the    trees  in  the 
hedge-rows  mi  th#  lawn,  large  and  luxuriant,  and  the  plan- 

tsA>ns 


HOllTmjMBEllL  AKDW  1 1^ 

saiotm  ilirougboot  the  whole  estate  retttarkaUy  heaichj»  Ihick, 
and  picturesque. 

Thikwall  Castle  stands  on  a  rocky  precipice,  above 
the  TippjJ»  and  a  little  south  of  the  Pict's  Wall.  It  gave  naiue 
to  an  ancient  family  before  cailkd  Wade,*  Tl*e  church  of 
Hexham  held  lands  and  possessions  here,  the  g\fi  of  Brisn  de 
Thirwall,  and  Roger,  ]us  son^  prior  to  the  twenty-seventh  of  Ed- 
ward the  First  The  heiress  of  this  family^  in  ITSS,  marritnl 
Matthew  Swinburne,  of  the  Capheaton  fanuly,  who  sold  the 
Gistie  and  manor  of  Thirwall  to  the  Earl  of  Carliile*  The  wjlls 
[this  fortress  are,  in  some  places,  three  yards,  and  m  others 
two  yards  and  three  quarters  thick,  but  sadly  ruined*  **  At 
die  entrance,"  say  WoUis,  **  part  of  tm  iron  gate  is  still  re- 
maining, within  which,  on  removing  the  rubbkh,  the  flooring 
of  a  room  was  discovered,  in  1759,  consisting  of  three  courses 
of  fla|^  one  above  another,  a  stratum  of  sand  lying  between 
each/'  It  was  vaulted  undemeatli.  Great  part  of  it  has  of 
late  years  been  applied  to  building  cottages*  **  Here  the  Scots 
opened  to  themselves  a  way  into  the  province  between  tlie 
Inhtng  and  the  Tyne,  and  very  prudently  too,  in  the  very 
{^ace  by  which  the  heart  of  the  kingdom  was  mvBt  acces^ 
whlc,  without  the  intervention  of  any  rivers.*'  **  The  Scots,** 
lays  Fordun,  **  being  nmsters  of  the  country,  on  both  gides  the 
valJ,  began  to  inhabit  it  as  conquerors,  and  calling  together 
the  peatsantry  with  their  hoes,  qutlltfts,  or  spades,  rakes,  forkip 
and  mattocks,  began  to  dig  a  number  of  cuts  and  pits  alt  over 
it,  by  which  they  could  easily  pass  and  repass.  From  these 
holes  the  wall  here  takes  its  present  name,  the  place  being 
CfkUed,  in  English  Thrlvadh  in  Latin,  Mums  Perforattis^f 
la  sight  of  this  castle,  to  the  south,  is  a  camp,  with  a  single 
fiUuti)  of  turf,  and  a  foss.  It  is  called  Black  Dykes*  The 
lltmi  is  high  on  the  north.  Lead  bullets  have  been  found  iii 
.  on  cutting  turf.     We^t  of  it  a  quarter  of  a  mile  is  an* 

¥her  camp4 
Umthank  Hall  stands  on  the  soutli  side  of  South  Tyiw^ 

12  and 


C4ind«t),  OoQ£Vs  Ed.  Vi)h  in,  p.  V5.>.       t  Ihid.      %  WaUU,  V(*l.  I. p.  ^ 


1 15  KOaTH0IIEERLAKtt* 

and  under  a  lieatliy  momntam»  called  Plen  Moller.  It  wai  tlie^ 
seat  of  the  late  Robert  Tvireddlc,  Esq.  and  by  him  bequeathed- 
to  Robert  Pearson,  Esq.  of  Benwell.  TnaApi^ood,  near 
Haydon  bridge,  i«  the  residence  of  the  Reverend  Robert 
Tweddle,  whose  brother  John,  a  gentleman  of  polished 
learning,  died  at  Athens  on  the  eight  of  the  kalends  of 
August,  1798,  in  his  thirtieth  year,  and  was  buried  there 
in  the  Temple  of  Tlieseus.  Farther  down  the  river,  and 
on  the  same  side  is  WiLLtMOTE^iiWicK:  (L  e*  the  moat  and 
filla  of  William)  an  old  and  ruined  fortified  residence  o£  the 
ancient  family  of  Ridley s,  from  whom  descended  Bishop  Ridley, 
the  martyr  ;  Dr.  Lancelot  Ridley,  author  of  a  C^omraentary  on 
the  Epistles  of  St.  Paul ;  Sir  Thomas  Ridley,  Chancellor  to 
Archbishop  Abbot,  and  author  of  A  View  of  the  Civil  and  Eo^H 
clesiastical  Law ;  and  Sir  Thomas's  son  and  biographer.  Dr. 
Gloster  Ridley.  *  Their  lineal  descendants  are  at  present  set* 
tied  at  Heaton  and  Blagdon,  in  this  county,  where  they  have 
large  pofsessious.  They  had  also  a  residence  at  Hardridikg, 
in  this  parish,  which  they  ^cild  to  Mr.  Lowes,  a  family  reiidcnt 
at  that  time  at  Crow  Hall,  on  the  n<irlh  side  of  the  South 
Tyne,  but  who  of  later  years  have  had  their  seat  at  Rtdlet 
Hall,  on  the  opposite  bank  of  that  river,  and  near  its  con* 
Huence  with  the  Allen.  This  mansion  stands  in  a  fine  open 
lituation  ;  and  the  walks  around  it,  especially  among  the  woods 
and  rocks  on  the  banks  of  the  Allen,  are  very  romantic,  and 
and  abundant  in  excellent  specunens  of  landscape.  The  estate 
And  hall  were,  in  1567^  parcel  of  tlie  poisessions  of  the  Ridleys,  of 
Will imotes wick.  The  Lowes*  family  are  also  ancient  in  these 
parts,  and  have  their  name  from  being  possessors  of  the  forest 
of  Loughs  (or  Lakes)  in  this  parish.  Near  Ridley  Hall  is  the 
chapel  of  Beltingham,  of  the  antiquity  of  which  a  very  largs 
j9w-tree,  in  its  yard,  is  a  standing  rnomorial.  Further  up,  on  m 
neck  of  land,  at  the  confluence  of  the  Allen  and  Harsingdale 
Burn,  are  seen  the  crumbling  walls,  and  broken  gateway  of 
Staward  lk  PsEJt,  an  ancient  fortress;  granted,  in  13S6,  bj 

Edwani 
*  Cirttr^  Hjsl.  of  Cunb.  pp.  149,  508.    Bowycr'i  Aaecd. 


KORTHUMBBliLANB.  117 

Edward,  Duke  of  York,  to  the  Friar«  Eremites,  of  Hexham, 
to  be  held  by  the  annua]  pa ytuent  of  five  marks.^     The  scenery 
about  thit  place  »5  also  of  the  most  striking  aod  interesting  na- 
ture, consUting  of  woods,  rocks,  ruined  walk,  water,  cottages, 
and  patches  of  ricJi  tillage  land*     This  peel  or  castle  was  the 
residence  of  John  Bacon,  Esq.  a  gentleman,  who  raised  a  larg* 
fortune  by  mining,  and  who  is  said  to  have  been  a  descendant 
from  the  same  stock  as  Lord  Chancellor  Bacon,  by  a  monk  of 
M^etherall  Abbey,  who  conformed  and  married,     Mr.  Bacon's 
son    and    successors,  settled  at  Newton  Cap,   in  the  county 
^of  Durham.      He    had   seven  daughters,  siJt  of    whom  mar- 
to  opulent  gentlemen  in   Northumberland,  and  one  died 
firaarried. 

CaervorAX  (i,e,  the  town  and  castle)  is  situated  about 
twelve  or  thirteen  cliains,  within  both  the  walls,  and  n^r  the 
iestern  boundary'  of  this  county.  It  is  an  oblong  square,  and 
Contains  about  four  acres  and  a  half.  The  ramparts  and  ditch 
around  it  are  now,  as  in  Hor&ley*«  time,  very  conspicuous. 
Its  ancient  name  appears  to  liave  been  Magna,,  where  the  No- 
titia  places  the  CohorS  Secunda  Dalmatorum,  though  no  inscrip- 
tion has  been  found  to  strengthen  the  conjecture.  The  great 
nulitary  way  from  Walwick  Ch esters,  passes  a  ttttle  to  the 
south  of  this  fort ;  and  the  Maiden-way  goea  through  it  to  Beau 
Castle,  which  is  about  aix  miles  to  the  north  of  it*f 

"  Abundance  of  antiquities  of  various  sorts  have  been 
dug  up  in  this  station  and  t(ncn,  Wlien  I  was  last  here  1  pur- 
diaied  a  Roman  ring,  with  a  victory,  ofi  a  Cornelian,  but 
»:"J  Three  altars  have  been  found  here,  dedicated  to 
die  God  Vitires.  §  On  a  funeral  stone,  cut  in  two,  and  used 
is  steps  in  the  stairs  of  a  house,  Mr.  Horsley  found  an  inscrip* 
tion  which  he  reads  thus:  Dis  Manibus  Aurelia  Pubeo  Voraa 
lixit  annos****  Aurelius  Fubeo  Naso  pientissimae  filiae  dicat. 

I  3  Tliis 


•  WaJlii,  Vol-  II.  p.  ^2.  t  Warb.  VaII.  Kom.  p.  75. 

t  Bonlex,  p.  f30  f  H>.    O^ugtii  Camd.  Val.  Ill,  p,  f3«. 


11«  .  TPORTH^Mll«lttANl>. 

This  inscription,  IMR  CAES  FLAV  VAL  CoNSTANTINd 

PIO NOB    CAESAR    is   noticed  by  Warburton,   in    hi« 

map.  The  stone  on  which  it  t»  cut^  is  broken  in  two..  It  ia 
cuFiouB,  «ays  Horsiey,  but  needs  no  explication.  The  three 
following  fragments  of  iDscrlpUons  are  in  the  Durham  hbrary  ; 

V.^IVLGN*--.NUST  AC.AF COII  flTr  BR 

ANToNNIA  *  -L  L  M.  /,  e^  Minervac  Julius  Gnenius  actarius 
cohort  is  quartae  Britonmn  Antoniniae  votum  sohk  hbentissirae 
merito. — Honley.  The  actm*ius  provided  com  for  the  armies  ; 
and  an  Aotonlne  Cohort,  is  mentioned  in  Gruter.*  PM  CA 
••..If ADR- -LEG  II.-.APIATORIO,  4he  reading  of 
>^4iich  b  very  uncertain,  though  Mr*  Hortley  says,  "  I  take  it 
to  have  been  erected  to  the  Emperor  Hadrian  by  the  Legio 
secundo  Augusta,  and  that  Apiatorium  was  the  name  of  the 
place  at  that  time,"  Perhaps  of  the  three  the  last  is  most  per- 
fect. FOKTVI-..AUDAC,  ROMANUS  C.  LEG  VI  XX 
AVG.  It  is  the  fragment  of  an  altar  dedicated  to  Fortune  by 
Audacius  Roraanus,  centurion  in  the  Jegions,  sixth,  twentieth^ 
and  second,  wlrich  lasL  was  called  Augusta*  There  are  a  few 
inscriptions  besides  these  in  the  Britannia  Romana,  belong- 
ing to  CaervoraiH  but  none  of  them  any  way  curious. 

A  humaii  skeleton  was  found  at  the  east  end  ef  this  station, 
when  the  military  road  into  Cumberland  was  made:  a)sa 
some  years  afler,  a  small  fair  Roman  altar  inscribed  DKO 
VITERiNO,  and  a  small  brass  lar,  both  in  the  pomeaaton  of 
Mrs,  Bacon,  of  Newbrongh,  In  1760  was  found  a  fine  relief 
of  a  Roman  soldier  fourteen  inches  and  a  half  high,  and  nine 
broad.  Above  its  lefl  shoulder  was  a  lion  recumbent,  with  a 
<deer  struggling  under  ita  paws,  j: 

The  four  foUowing  inscriptions  are  copied  from  Hutchinson; 

1!,  CLAVDI 
LXXX 


I 


I 


1*  A£LS*- 
AVREL. 
MARTI. 


*  P.  eclx.  D.  1.  et  p.  %\.  a.  S» 


5.   niF 

t  WalTis,  VoLn.p.5, 


The  fifirt  of  which  is  on  a  fragment  of  a  tablet,  aod  has  at 
«Jtar  in  relief  under  iu  The  third,  perhaps,  ought  to  he  read:^ — 
Imperalor  Antoninus  •  •  •  •  vallo  renovato  -  •  • « quae  supra  fecit ; 
mad  the  fourth  may  relate  to  some  band  of  soidiers  quartered 
^t  Magnum, 

Mr*  Brand,  however,  eav  at  Glenwhelt^  a  Btooe  foimd  at  Cocr- 
^onn,  and  itiscnbed— CIVTAS  DVMNI,  r.  e.the  city  of  the  hill. 
♦*  1  saw  here,'*  gays  he,  <* October  the  seventh,  llh^t  five  square 
bffsei  of  columns  and  some  curious  gutter  atones.  On  opening  a 
tumufus,  on  the  east  of  this  station,  there  waa  discovered  a 
remarkable  hollow  &epalchral  Btone,  which  contained  a  imall 
quantity  of  a  black  liquid,  and  two  gold  rings*'*  Fram  thif 
place  he  abo  brought  the  two  ioUowing  inscriptiona : — 

f .  BED  M  , 

ET  NVMINIB  f.  C.  M4R 


IVL  :  ACTAR  •  CO 

ANTO 

ET  Aorrva  •  c 

VIATa 

ET  S.  VAL  GA 

GSF 

CCVS  A  SOLO 

ER.  V.  8, 

The  first  of  which  he  translater:— 

"  To  the  God  Mara  iik)  tlie  dt^itjcs-  *  *  >JtiUii«  the  aclatiiiy  of  Itie  cdlit^rt, 
I  AotittB  tbe  ceDturioD,  and  Servitu  Valerius  GrarcUos  erected  tbis  from 
igrotmd,  perfbnning  a  vow.'' 

Ta  the  second  he  affixes  this  reading : — 

«*  Ceatnrin  Marci  Anton'  viataribrti  gratia  «ia  fecit."  * 

We  found  the  two  following  in  the  east  end  of  Mr*  Carrick's 
-C.  CALERI .  CASSIA  •  IN  BVPXIX-  The  letters 
<if  which  are  rather  faint,  but  we  believe  they  are  here  faithfully 
copied*  The  next  k  very  perfect  :—COH .  I  •  BATAVORUM  F. 

14  **  Th^ 

•  Hist,  of  Newc.    Vol,  L  p.  fillf. 


120  ^  NORTnUMBERLANB. 

"  The  fiwt  Cohon  of  Batavians  made  this,"  The  Notida 
pLices  this  coliort  at  Pracoiitia,  or  Carawbrugh,  where  we  find 
Melacclnia>  Marcellus,  ils  prefect,  dedicating  an  altar  to  For- 
tune, We  also  found  on  the  garden  wall  a  centiirial  etone,  too 
rude  and  tiine-woro  to  be  legible ;  and  this  fragment  of  an  io- 
fcHption— GERMA  •  R*-»'C  .  NE.  There  were  also  here  a 
part  of  a  statue  from  the  knee  dovt  nwards,  a  millstone,  an  un- 
Bcribed  altar,  and  several  other  curious  Roman  sculptures,  scat- 
tered in  different  parts  of  Mr.  Carrick's  premijies. 

Scarce  a  furlong  hence,  says  Camden^  on  a  high  hill,  the 
Roman  wall  remains  fifteen  feet  high,  and  nine  broad,  faced 
with  hewn  stones  on  both  sides.  The  finest  specimens  at  thit 
day  are  to  be  found  on  tlie  high  grounds  between  this  place  and 
Shewingsheels. 

Wall  Town  was  anciently  a  castellated  building,  and  the  seat 
of  John  Ridley,  Esq.  in  the  reign  of  Edward  the  Sixth.  The 
estate  and  manor  at  present  belong  to  Mrs*  Bacon,  of  New- 
brough.  Here  is  a  fine  clear  fountain,  which  has  formerly  been 
enclosed,  and  in  which  Paulinijs  baptised  one  of  the  Saxon 
kings,  perhaps  Edwin,  in  whose  reign  the  wells  by  the  way- 
sides were  supplied  wnth  iron  diehcs  for  the  convenience  of 
travellers. 

Great  Ch esters,  or  JEnca^  was  garrisoDed  in  tlie  time  of 
the  Notitia,  by  the  cohors  prima  Asiorum.  It  is  about  the 
same  size  a*  Cacrvoran.  The  ditch  around  it  is  remarkably 
frt^h  on  all  sides  hut  the  east.  The  walla  in  several  placet 
partly  standing.  The  whole  area  covered  witli  heaps  of  ruins» 
amongst  w^hich  are  distinguishable  the  Pretorium  fifty  yards 
long  and  forty  broad,  the  Questorium,  tlie  remains  of  a 
temple,  and  other  public  edifices.  Some  pieces  of  an  iron-gate 
and  hinges  were  found  in  the  ruins  not  long  ago.  A  paved 
way  fifteen  chains  long,  leads  from  its  southern  gate  to  the  main 
military  way.  Camden  dared  not  to  visit  this  place  for  fear  of 
mosstroopers.  '*  They  told  us»-*  says  he,  **  tlint  Chester  was  a 
very  great  place*'*     Here  is  the  following  inscription  : — 

PRO 


K0RTHUMBERLAK1>* 


Ifl 


PRO  iALVTE 

DESlDlENtVE 

-L[\M    PK.'VE 

ET  SVAS. 

POSVIT  VOT 

AO  SOLVIT  LIBF, 

NS  TVSCO  ET  BAS 

SO  COSS. 

*■  I  thinlt,"    gays  Horsley,    *•  voto  in  the  tif>h  line  must  be 

€X  voto,  as  usual,  ami  then  there  is  no  cliHiculty  as  to  the 

meaning."     Tuscus  and  Bassus  wer«  consuls  in  208, 

Horsley  has  seven  inscriptions  and  carvings  found  here,  three 
of  which  are  curious,  lAid  still  fL'main  in  the  neiglibourhood* 
One  is  a  symbolical  sculpture  in  relief,  on  a  large  stonet  at  the 
bottom  of  whicli  are  two  boars,  with  their  heads  towards  each 
other,  and  a  tree  on  each  side  of  each  of  them  ;  above  them, 
two  eagles,  standing  on  the  boughs  of  trees,  and  each  of  them 
supporting  on  its  wings  a  victory,  which  holds  a  vexillura  in  the 
middJe  o(  the  sculpture.  This  is  manifestly  indicative  of  the 
Honmn  eagles  liaving  been  victoriously  borne  through  tiie  Cale- 
doman  woods,  as  the  wild  boar  was  the  Iloman  type  of  the 
people  of  that  country.  The  next  is  a  tomb-stone,  with  a  head 
cftrred  at  the  top,  and  this  inscription  below  it:— D.  M,  AEL 
MEIlCVlUALi  CoRNIC vL  VACIA ,  SOROR  FECIT.  The 
cornicularius  was  an  inft?rior  officer  under  a  tribune.  The 
third,  also  a  sepulchral  stone,  has  an  ill-tlesigncd  human  figure 
upon  it,  and  beneath  it  this  inscription: — DIS  M.PERVICAE 
FILt  A  F,  I.  e,  Dis  Manibus  Pervicae  filia  fecit. 

But  the  most  remarkable  inscription  this  place  has  produced 
i  dug  out  of  the  ruini  of  a  large  building  in  the  upper  part 

ofdiis  station- — 

IMP  •  C.ES  M.  E  VVR  SEV 
KUS  ALEXANDER    PF« 
AVG  HORREVM  VETV 
OTATE^CONLAPJiVM  M 
COH  U  ASn'RVM  S.  A 
A  SOLO  RES  riTVEHVNT 
PROVtNXlA  RECN  T  •    • 

MAX1510  LEa  rr,  apro 

ML  MARTI  MED.  LEG  A 
T\S  CO,  IL  ET  DEXT. 


122  KORTHU»4BERtAKI5* 

The  perfect  part  of  diis  inscription  is  copied  from  Mr, 
Brand's  drawing,  and  the  letters  in  italic  supph^ed  frotn  Wallis, 
who  says,  •*  it  is  imperfect  at  each  corner  at  the  bottom* 
whereby  half  of  four  lines  are  wanting^  besides  some  letters. 

Mr.  Brand  also  found  here  this  fragment  of  an  in^icriptioii: — 
«  A  VG .  I  *  C  AEI .  VIC  ,  S."  There  are  many  barrows  or  tumuli 
in  this  neiglibourhood ;  and,  in  those  that  have  been  opcued  the 
graves  have  been  formed  by  side-etones  let  into  the  earth,  and 
covered  at  top  with  large  flat  stones* 

Little  Chgsteks,  or  the  Bowers^  was  the  ancient  Vindo* 
laHfff  and  garrisoned  in  the  time  of  the  Notitia  by  the  cohors 
quarta  Gallorum*     It  stands  one  mite  and  tliree  quarters  soutlt< 

j  jof  both  the  w^alle,  and  a  few  chains  north  of  the  Roman  military 
wdy  from  Walwick  Chesters  to  Caervoran.  A  causeway  has  le4 
from  it  to  Hadrian's  vallum.  Its  ramparts  are  seve|i  chains 
long,   and  four  broad ;  the  towers  at  their  comers  have  been 

I  roundf  and  are  partly  remaining :  the  ditch  in  few  places  can 

^  be  traced  ;  the  area  is  covered  with  a  rich  sward^  and  is  very 
irregular ;  on  the  east  the  ground  slopes  swiftly  from  it  to  Bar- 
don  Burn  I  on  the  opposite  side  of  whicl^  rises  a  high  hiU^ 
called  Borcum  or  Barcum,  which  would  induce  the  belief  that  tliis 
place  had  not  been  called  Vindolana,  bm  Borcovicus,  a  name 
attributed  to  Ilousesteads.  There  are  foundations  of  buildinga 
on  the  west  side  of  it;  and  in  a  piece  of  swampy  ground  ther^ 
many  urns  have  been  founds  son^timea  four  or  more  together, 

'  covered  with  a  large  square  brick,  and  having  a  strong  oak 
post  driven  into  the  earth  close  by  them.  A  little  south-west 
of  this  sepulchral  depot  is  a  dry » green  hill,  called  the  Cliapchicadi* 
At  Coidley-gate,  where  the  via  vincialis  crosses  Bardon  Bum,  is  a 
milepilliir  about  seven  feet  high,  placed  at  the  foot  of  a  large  tumu- 
lus ;  and  a  uiile  farther  up  the  Causeway ^  another  broken  in  two. 
Some  years  ago  on  the  west  side  of  this  p1ncc»  about  fif^y 
yards  from  tlie  walls  thereof,  there  was  discovered,  under  a  heap 
of  rubbisli,  a  square  room,  strongly  vaulted  above,  and  paved 
with  large  square  atones  set  in  lime ;  and  under  this  a  lower 
roomy  whose  roof  was  supported  by  rows  of  square  pillars  of 

about 


I 


* 


VOITHUMBERLAHB. 


123 


^Ottt  fatalfa  fard  tuglu  The  upper  room  had  two  niches  like 
^ind,  perhaps*  in  the  nature  of]  cliimmeft*  on  eacl)  side  of  every 
camtr  or  square,  which  iu  aU  made  the  number  sixteen.  Thr 
^pmtmmi^  of  this  room,  jis  also  its  roof,  were  tinged  with 
smoke*  The  stones  used  in  vaulting  the  upper  room  h«ve  been 
tkedp  fts  our  joiners  do  the  deals  for  chiunberis ;  those  1  mw 
omnberad  thu£,  x.  xi,  xiii."*  This  description  answers 
to  the  £brm  of  the  hypocausta  and  sudatories  found  in  the  dlf'^ 

(ferent  Roman  stations  in  Uiis  neigbourhood.  An  inscription^ 
idsor  imperfect  indeed,  but  curious,  was  about  the  siime  time 
(ofmi  here,  and  described  by  Dr*  Hunter  m  the  Philosophical 
Traafiactions.  Wlien  Horsley  visited  this  place  he  found  the 
origiaal  had  been  conveyed  to  Bcltingham  Chapel -Yard, 
where  it  was  converted  into  a  tomb-stone,  and  the  inscription 
■  hewn  off:^ 

I GALLOR 

^^^^_         VOTA  NV 

^^^^H  NIEIV5    POP.-iRRIBVS 

^^^^v      fl'ndamen »-'t£rvnt  svb 

^^^^p      cl  xe^^epho eg  av  pr 

^  cvraSte 

^^^•f  ••GaUorutti-*Votii  tmniiiii  ejus  priiiripis  optimi  tnrribns^-fimd  amenta 
^m  |iOiiiienuit  mib  Clmidio  Xenoplioutf^  li'<,rBto,  Augiutnii  proprat'tori  curaiite,"^ 

I  Horsley,  concerning  this  inscription,  observes,  tliat  it  seems 
to  tGstabliidi  the  credit  of  tlie  Notitia,  that  the  first  cohort  of  the 
GatsiB  were  quartered  here ;  tlmt  it  mentions  a  proprietor  of  Britain, 
Claudius  XenophoOj  no  where  else  spoken  of,  and  that  the  words 
optimi  principis,  would  make  one  believe  thai  it  reft^rred  to  Trajan* 

DEAE  SVRI 
AE  SUB  CALP 
VRMO  AGR 
ICOLA  LEG  .  AVG 
PR.PR.A.LICINTVS 
CLEMENS  PRAEE  C 
OH  .  1 .  HAMMIOH«|. 

Camden 
•  WiiL  Tr«i!»,  No.  *78. 


If 4  yOKTirUMBERLAffB. 

Camilen  found  the  allar  bearing  thrs  inscription  at  Melk* 
rigg,  a  hamlet  on  South  Tyne«  It  waft  copied  into  Speed V 
Map  of  Northumberland  from  the  original  in  the  Cotton  Col* 
lection^  which  at  present  is  at  Cambridge,  In  Horslej'a  timt 
St  was  much  defnced.  The  Syrian  Goddess  was  the  same  u 
Cybele,  Ceres,  7V41us,  &c,  Calpurnius  waa  pro  pre  tor  in  Bri- 
tain under  Marcus  Aurelius.  The  word  Hammiorum,  Mn  Hor»- 
!ey  supposed  had  been  miscopied  by  his  predecessors,  and  had 
been  Gallorum  in  the  original. 

To  this  place  also  belongs  a  sculpture  representing  Mer- 
cury, with  hiij  caduceus  in  his  kfl  hand»  and  io  his  right  a 
purse  8uspendt?d  over  the  head  of  a  Camillus,  pouring  incense 
on  an  aJtar,  inFcribed,  DEO  MERCVRIO.  This  stone,  and 
«ome  Roman  sandals  found  here,  were  given  to  the  Royal 
Society,  by  Mr.  Warburton.*  The  bricU  at  this  place  arc 
inscribed,  LEG.  VL  V,  Lcgro  Sexta  victrix.  A  large  altar 
was  found  here,  with  a  deer  in  the  centre,  leaning  against 
a  tree,  and  two  fawns  in  niches  below,  all  in  relief.  It 
has  been  spirt  in  two,  and  the  sculptured  part  of  it  is  at  pre- 
sent used  as  a  rubbing  stone  for  cattle,  in  a  field  north  of  the 
via  TTincialis.  Near  it  we  were  also  shewn  a  stone,  inscribed  ta 
the  Biis  Manibus,  and  in  memory  of  a  person,  who  had  lived 
twenty-four  years,  three  months,  and  eight  days,  but  his  name 
too  much  obliterated  to  be  legible.  The  stone  was  dis-» 
covered  by  the  plough.  At  the  west  end  of  the  Well-house  is  this 
inscription,  where  it  was  first  taken  notice  of  by  Mr.  Wallis  :— 
HTI  VKTOf^f 


L  the  bottom, 
resent  state, 
^  the  weoiliet 


of  the  wail 


}70RTHUMBEhtAK]»#  *  iCf 

IMP,   CAES.  TRAJAN 
HAORUM    AVG 
LEG.  IL  AVCi. 
A  PLATOKIO  NEPOTE  LEG.  PR.  PR. 

The  stone  was  removed  to  Ridley  Hall.  It  is  remarkable  for 
Qtioning  Hadrian^  and  the  propretar  Plutoriufl  Nepos,  and 
being  found  in  one  of  the  castella  of  the  wall  usually  attributed 
to  Severus.  It  seems  to  destroy  alt  accepted  criticism  respect- 
ing the  autliors  of  these  two  barriers,  and  to  induce  the  belief 
lUat  they  were  the  labour  of  successive  emperors^  each  adding, 
altering,  or  repairing,  as  the  exigencies  of  didrerent  timei  re- 
qtiired* 

Hou5EJiTeAD5»  called  by  Dr.  Stukely»  the  Palmyra  of 
Britain,  is  the  Uorcavkiu  of  the  Kotitia,  where  the  first  cohort 
'the  Timgrians,  a  people  of  Delgic  Gaul,  livin<^'  on  botJi  sideis 
be  Maese^  were  in  garrison.  The  great  stone  barrier  running 
I  the  steep  and  rocky  brovir  of  a  high  lull  forms  its  northern 
rampart.  Its  area  measures  five  chains  by  tieven  ;  the  ditch  is 
obscure,  but  the  ramparts  very  apparent.  The  lines  and  angles 
of  the  different  buildings,  tliat  stood  within  it  may  be  distinctly 
traced  amid  confused  heaps  of  ruins  ;  stones  carved  into  curious 
forms  \  embossed  figures  of  gods  and  warriors  ;  and  broken  pH- 
lan»  of  rery  difFerent  degrees  in  size  and  excellejicy  in  work- 
tip*  We  found  the  thresliolds  of  certain  buildings  lately 
ttared  of  rubbish,  by  the  curiosity  of  former  visitors,  where  ap- 
peared the  plinth  of  a  pilasttT,  finely  moulded  on  two  sides ; 
remains  of  a  floor  waved  with  parallel  Hues ,  and  three  fre€- 
iBdne  Meps,  much  worn  by  use*  Near  tliese  is  also  a  small  circu- 
lar building,  widening  upwards,  with  a  narrow  way  into  it ;  the 
piace^  perfiaps,  which  Mr,  Brand  supposed  had  been  an  oven. 
On  the  east  side  of  the  south  gate  is  an  oblong  building,  pro- 
jectmg  about  thirty  feet,  through  the  ram  partis,  and  having  the 
bise  of  a  cir^tUar  tower  or  staircase  at  its  north  east  corner : 
tt»  walls  at  present  are  about  five  feet  high;  and  its  iaterior, 
^ut  ten  feet  wide,  is  fUIed  up  with  stones  and  rubbish.     On 

the 


126  KOnTHVMBEALAHO. 

the  ^uth  and  west  of  this  iiation  the  ruins  of  a  town  arc  large 
umd  manifest,  where  the  columns  of  the  temples,  the  statues 
of  the  go<ls,  and  the  altars  of  Roman  pitty  he  in  melancholy 
desolation.  On  the  edge  of  the  brook  east  of  this  place  wc  saw 
remalnft  of  a  bath,  about  thirty- eight  feet  by  fifty,  the  floor  of 
wrhich  is  vigibJe,  and  the  hypocaustmn,  we  believe,  entire.  On 
Chapel  HilJ,  about  three  furlongs  to  the  soutli,  is  a  large  ruin- 
ous lieap,  supposed  to  be  the  remains  of  a  consiilerable  temple^* 
West  oi'  this,  where  tlie  way  leads  from  the  station,  we  also 
saw  the  lines  of  buildings,  a  large  stone  apparently  the  pedestal 
of  a  statue,  and  a  broken  statue  which  was  lately  dug  up  in 
making  a  drain.  The  hill  sides  herfe,  where  the  land  is  good, 
are  all  terraced,  afler  the  ancient  method,  mentioned  by  Jo* 
sephus,  of  cultivating  swiftly-sloping  grounds* 

The  Britannia  Romana  has  sixteen  inscriptions  and  sculptures 
found  here,  some  of  which  are  very  perfect  and  curious*  We 
select  the  fuUmving  from  that  work  : — 

I    O    M 

ET  NVMIMBVS 
AVG  .  COH  .  I .  TV 
NGROKVM 
MIL  .  CVl  PRAR 
ST  Q.  VERIVS 
feVPERSTIS 
PRAEFECITS. 

JoTi  Oltttmo  Maxima  et  autbinibns  Aagnsti  coU«ri  fkrijua  Tiuifranim^ 
iiuUtitm  cai  praeest  Quinttii  Vcrins  iJupcr>tes  pracfectus. 

This  altar  h  built  up  in  the  cMmney  jamb,  in  the  house  tl 
the  valley,  below  the  gtation. 

I    O    M 
E  N%T^INIBUS  AUG 
COH.T.TVNGROK 
CVl  PRAE  EST  Q,  IVLIVS 
MAXIMVS 

Tim 

•  Hor».  Brit,  Rom.  p,  «19. 


» 


ajtar  has  been  dedicated  by  tlie  same  cohort  and  prefect 
ai  the  last,  but  the  word  M AXIM VS  is  pnrtly  worn  out,  aad 
the  word  PREAFECTUS  entirely  gone, 
I    .,     .. 

ET  NVMINIBUS 

AVG.  COH.  I 

TVNGROR* 

CUI  PRAEEST 

Q.  IVL.  MAX  I 

BIXJS  .  PRAEF 

Jon  OptifSM  Mfiximo  et  oumiuibiis  Aitgusti  cohort  prima  TungrDrum  cmi 
praeert  Qotottis  JiiUila  Maximus  praefectu*. 

DEO 
MARTI  QVIN 
iXORIVS  MA 
TERNVS  PRAEF 
COH  ITVNG 

V  S  L  M 

DcoMaiti  Quml(L4  FlorJii!^  Miiterotis  praefecttt*  coliortii  prtioae  Tod- 
fTorom  voturd  solvit  libeoi  mcrito. 

Besides  these  there  are   three  mutilated  ioscriptionB   one  : 
cneDtions  the  sixth  legion ;  the  second  is,  MATH  IB  VS  COH.  I, 

TV^GR ;  and  tlie  tliird,    a  defaced  aJtar  of  Jupiter* 

The  sculptures  in  alto-relievo :  the  first  of  them,  a  flying  vic- 
tory, witli  one  foot  touching  a  globe ;  the  second  and  third, 
figures  of  Roman  soldiers ;  the  fourth,  three  female  figures, 
limiliirly  clothed,  and  in  similar  attitudes,  seated  in  a  chair, 
and  holding  with  both  hand^  a  cylindrical  vessel  j  and  the  fiftlj, 
three  other  female  figureg  in  separate  chairs,  each  di^crently 
clodied,  and  the  middle  one  having  its  legs  tied  to  posts  with  two 
car  As ;  the  sixth,  also,  has  upon  it  three  feniale  figures,  euch 
ttindiog,  and  of  ruder  work  than  the  former,  and,  above  their 
bciidli,  three  fishes,  one  of  them  a  sea-goat ;  and,  tlie  geventh^ 
**  a  imall  statue  of  a  soldier  in  the  Roman  mllitai-y  habk, 
Holding  a  spear  in  his  right  hand,  resting  with  hm  lcf\  upon  ii 
shield.*' 

There 


*i   r 

**  There  is  one  inscription  more  which  belongs  to  this 
place,  tliat  was  published  in  tht;  Trunsactions,  by  Dr*  Hunter, 
•everal  years  ago."  It  was  imperfect  when  he  saw  it,  and  i» 
givcQ  thus:— > 

NI  VEN'O  RI 

G  OFERSIOMS 

ROMVLO  ALLMAHI 

MANSVETIO    SENICIOM 

REVINCE  QVARTI0M8 

EREiil    FROCVRAVIT.   DPXF 

VS  RAVTIONIS  .  EX .  G  ,  S. 


..**tii  Vtootnoni*  [filio] 

2-..-  Oferiiotila 

Bnmnl<>  AlimEhionis 

M.ttMttcuo  !M^nccion» 

ReviiiHo  Qiiartioni^ 

crrgi    ptoctiraTjt    Dflfitu 

Rautionh  ex  ^^tia  sui 

This  has  evidently  been  a  sepulchral  monument,  but  it  Ib  ex- 
tremely obscure  and  barbarous,  and  difficult  to  decypher. 

Cahrowbrugh,  or  Procolitia,  governed,  when   the  No 
litia  was  made,  by  the  first  Batavian  coliortj  standi  on  elevate 
ground,  rich,  green,  irregular,  with  large  heaps  of  ruins. 
militar}^  way  that  accompanies  the  barriers  over  these  hills,  | 
through  the  middle  of  this  fort,  the  stone  barrier  forming  it 
northern  rampart,  which,  with  that  on  tlie  east,  is  still  ver 
visible.     There  are  no  remains  of  the  ditch,  but  on  the  wes% 
where  lie  the  ruins  of  a  considerable  town,  and,  in  the  begins 
ning  of  last  century,  was  found  a  well,  plentifully  supplied  witlil 
iiDe  water,  seven  feet  square,  cased  with  ashlar  work,  and  as  ap*| 
pears  by  the  ruins  on  its  brink,  once  covered  with  a  house.     It 
is  supposed  to  have  been  a  bath.     There  is  a  broken  pillar 
by  iL 

This  place  has  not  hitherto  been  found  rich  In  aDtiquitjei,.J 
It  has,  however,  pT«^uce4  two  very  fine  altars,  dedicated  t4 

Fortune 


KOftTHUMlS&LAHSW 


129 


remaved. 


Durham* 


Mr*  Warburton,  to  the  library  m 
Th^ir  inscriptions  are  ae  follow  :»^ 


COH.  T  BATAVOR 

CVI  PRAERST 

MELACCrNIVS 
MARCELLVS  PRM. 

FORTVNAE 

P  R 

C  IVL  RAETICVS  C.  LEG.  VI  VIC. 


^  The  foa^  of  these  Is  curieufl  and  useful,  inasmuch  ag  it  con* 
firms  the  evidence  of  tlie  Notitia,  that  thia  place  was  ancieuUy 
caUed  FrocoUtia.  The  second  la  read  by  Horaley  thus;-^ 
Foituiise  popixli  Romani  Caius  Juliuti  Raeucus  centurio  kgionis 
aaots  ▼ictricts;  but  that  anliquaryi  by  mistake,  makes  it  be- 
hag  to  Liule-Chesters.* 

A  ^tone,  in  the  form  of  an  altar  without  a  focus,  was  found 
kf^ by  WarburtoDf  with  this  inscription ; — D*  M.  D.  THAN* 
QUILA  SEVERA,  PRO  SE  ET  SVIS.  V.  S.  LM  *'  De* 
dtcaled  to  the  Genii  of  Spirits,  by  Tranquilla  Severa,  for  her 
and  hei«,"  Mr,  Wallis  mentions  a  relief  of  Neptune,  with  hi* 
trideot,  reclining^  in  a  houso-end  liere ;  it  has,  since  his  time, 
been  removed  into  the  walks  at  Hallington,    ^ 

Half  a  mile  south* west  of  this  place,  and  similar  to  it  in  size» 
iiaa  exploratory,  cu*  summer  fort^  called  Broom-Dykes;  and 
mmr  to  Houses tt^ads  is  Busy-Gap^  a  break  in  the  mountain, 
ilid  to  have  been  one  of  the  inlets  by  which  the  Caledonians. 
most  frequently  iiwaded  the  provinces  south  of  the  wail.  Mr. 
Horsley  thought  the  castle  at  SiiEWiKc-SiftKt.DS  had  no  ap* 
petrance  of  being  Rotnan*  *'  The  castle  itself  (now  in  ruins) 
«Ad  the  motes  beside  it,  are  untioubtedly  of  much  later  date. 
And  I  observed  several  trenches  thereabouts ;  particularly  a 
Iwge  and  long  oibe,  which  reaches  from  Busy-Gap  cross  the 

Vol,.  XIL  K  passes 

*  Warb,  Vsl.  Roin«  p.  56  luid  69. 


130  NOHTIItJMBERLAMft. 

passes  bet«r««e]i  the  mountains.  But  these  are  all  oti  tlie  notfli 
aide  of  the  wall,  and  must  certainly  have  been  made  in  later 
times,  for  securing  the  neighbouring  passes.  Probably  they 
are  no  older  than  the  times  of  our  famous  mosstroopers^  who 
might  convenicntty  shLlter  themselves  among  those  hideous 
mountains  and  mosses."  ♦  There  are  many  superstitious  tales 
about  enchanted  warriors  in  a  cavern  near  Shewing-Shielda ; 
and  a  littJi*  west  of  it»  near  the  wail,  is  a  high  rude  stone,  called 
by  the  common  people  King  Ethel*s  Chair. 

Between  the  South  Tjnie  and  Canraw  u  Newb»ough>  which 
probably  derives  its  name  from  being  built  out  of  the  ruins  of 
Procolitia^  or  from  its  proximity  to  it,  Thb  village  stands 
conspicuous,  in  the  escheats  of  the  tenth  of  Elizabeth^  for  the 
great  number  of  its  freeholders.  Here  is  the  seat  of  Mrs.  Bacon, 
and  the  Rev-  Henry  Wastal,  her  relative  by  an  ancestor  of  his, 
rector  of  Stmonbum,  marrying  one  of  the  Bacons  of  Staward 
PeeL  There  are  very  excellent  whetstones  obtained  near  an 
old  deserted  lcad*mine  above  Newbrough-f 

Whitfield  IIall,  a  seat  of  Willi^i  Ord,  Esq.  is  situated- 
on  the  West  Allen.  William,  King  of  Scotland,  confirmecl' 
the  manor  of  Whitfield  to  the  church  of  Hexham,  of  which  it» 
was  held,  in  11^6^:}:  by  John  de  Whitfield,  at  the  annual  rent* 
of  16s.  4sl,  It  continued  in  this  family  till  its  last  proprietor/ 
Matthew  Wliitfield,  Esq*  who  was  higli  sherifi*  for  this  countjv 
in  I728»  sold  it  to  the  Orda  of  Fenham,  The  mansion-house 
iras  rebuilt  about  twenty  years  since,  and  great  improvements' 
made  about  it.  The  high  and  bold  rocks,  and  the  hangti^ 
woods,  thick  with  hollies,  form  a  fine  contrast  wnth  the  neat«* 
ness  of  the  lawn  and  tiie  pleasure  grounds*  The  Whitfields  of* 
this  place  were  usually  styled  earkf  and  after  they  became  ex*-* 
tinct  this  local  title  passed  to  the  A^liitfields  of  ClargilL 

Langl£t  Castle,  the  cnpital  seat  of  the  barony  of  Tyndal«^ 
was  held  of  the  crown,  in  the  time  of  Henry  the  First,  bj 
Adam  de  Tyndale,  by  service  of  one  knight's  fee ;  and  con'- 

linued 

J  BriL  Rom.  p.  147,  fWsMhy  L  p,  <J4*  |  WalUi,  11.  33. 


Jiii 


KOKTHyMBERLAKO; 


ISI 


I 


tioued   In  his  male  desceodaDts  till  the  tfme  of  Hetirj  tho 

Third,*  when  the  family  inheritance  was  divided  between  two 

cso-helressesy   and  this  part  came  to  Richard  dc  Boiteby,  by 

mxmrrmge  <j^  one  of   thctn.       From  the  BoUebys,    from  like 

^muse,  it  passed  to  the  Lucys,  Barons  of  Egermojit  and  Cocker- 

vnouth,  with  whom  it  remained  five  descentSp  when  issue  niiile 

.sgaiA  failing  it  became  the  possession  of  Gilbert  de  Umfraavilj, 

^arl  of  Anegos,  by  marriage  of  Muud,  sister  and  heir  of  Anthony 

^ord  Lucy.     On  the  demise  of  the  Earl  of  Anegos,  his  widow 

Tnarried,   in  1383,    Henry  Percy,  Earl  of  Noithumbcrlaml^f 

a  circumstance  which  united  the  large  possessions  of  the  Urn- 

franvills  and  Lucp  in  the  Percy  family,  with  whom  this  castle 

and  manor  remained  in  1567;  J  but  it  ai'kerwards  became  the 

property  of  the  RatcliSes,  of  Dilston,  with  whom  it  continued 

till  it  was  forfeited  by  James,  the  last  Earl  of  Derwentwater, 

ID  1745<     It  now  belongs  to  Greenwich  Hospital* 

This  casUe  is  well  situated  on  ihe  south  side  of  the  Tyne» 
and  though  it  has  of  late  years  been  barbarously  handled,  it 
is  by  far  the  most  perfect  ruin  of  the  kind  in  the  county.  It 
is  in  the  form  af  tlie  letter  H,  its  walls  near  seven  feet  thick, 
iu  inside  twenty ^four  feet  by  eighty,  and  the  towers,  one  at 
each  corner,  about  sixty-six  feet  liigh.  The  rooms  remaining 
ire  all  arched  with  stone;  those  in  the  towers  are  fourteen 
feet  square,  and  the  four  snuJl  fire-rooms  on  the  east,  each 
eleven  feet  by  thirteen.  The  ground-rooms,  on  the  east  and 
west,  four  on  each  side,  have  been  much  injured  by  being 
■led  as  farm  offices.  The  windows  wl^icb  have  lighted  the 
gneai  hall,  kitchen,  &q.  are  large,  those  in  the  chambars  mostly 
small,  and  built  at  an  angle  that  would  prevent  the  entrance 
of  an  enemy's  arrow.  The  stone  of  which  this  fabric  is  built 
*is  yet  so  remarkably  fresh,  as  to  exhibit  in  their  primitive 
sharfmesa  the  characters  of  the  masons.  The  whole  of  the 
toaide  is  red  with  the  marks  of  tire. 

Haydon-Bridgb  has  a  charter  for  a  market  on  Tuesdays, 
K2  and 

T«»t*.  <i«  Ncvii*  p.  381,  f  CoH,  Pe^rtgc,  Vol  VL  p.  en, 

;  UkWK  MS.  t  14. 


IS2  MORTHVMBERLAftU. 

and  a  Mr  dh  July  the  ttrenty-iifst,  and  three  days  after,  pri 
cured  by  the  first  Anthony,  Lord  Lucy,  but  both  long  sine 
fallen  inio  disuse.  The  bridge  here,  in  Cainden*g  time,  wa 
*  wooden,  and  oat  of  repair.*  At  present  it  is  of  »tone, 
consists  of  five  arches,  tliree  of  them  built  in  1800  and  181( 
Tlie  church  is  a  plain,  neat,  and  new  edifice,  with  a  squ 
tower,  finished  with  a  quadrangular  spire.  Opposite  to  i% 
on  the  south  bank  of  the  Tjnc,  i^  the  Free-School  an 
Hoispitals,  founded  and  endowed  by  the  Reverend  Joh 
Shiifloe,  A.  M.  Vicar  of  Nethen^arden.  The  endowmc 
consists  of  a  valuable  estate  at  Mousin,  near  Bamberough 
which  the  trustees  considering  iis  more  than  suflScient  for  the^ 
maintenance  of  the  establishment,  an  act  of  parliaineni  was 
procured,  id  I7SS,  for  turning  its  proceeds  into  a  more ' 
channel^  and  enlarging  and  amending  the  old  constitutions  i 
the  charity.  By  this  act  the  trustees  are  empowered  to  bail 
and  maintain  alms-houses  for  old  iind  decayed  inhabitants 
the  townships  of  Hay  don  and  Woodshields ;  to  provide  a  school'^' 
mistress  to  teach  readings  writing,  knitting,  &c.  to  erect 
suitable  houses  for  the  two  ushers,  and  to  regulate  thetr's  tmd 
the  master's  salary.  This  act  provides  that  the  master's  salary 
shall  not  be  less  than  lf)Ol.  nor  more  than  150L  a  year;  and 
that  the  two  ushers  shall  be  paid  such  annual  salaries  as  shall 
teem  meet  to  the  trustees,  so  that  the  salary  oi  tlie  first  be  oot 
less  than  35U  nor  that  of  the  second  \em  than  201.  a  year. 

Netherwahden"  18  very  sweetty  situated  between  the  two 
Tynes,  and  near  their  confluence.  Its  church  has  been  lately 
rebuilt ;  it  is  a  vicarage,  Its  rectory  appropriated  to  the  churcH 
of  Hexham,  ami  has  under  it  the  chapels  of  Hoydon  and  New- 
brough.  The  Scotch  army,  tlitit  plundered  the  western  part** 
^f  this  county,  while  King  David  ravaged  its  shores,  encamped! 
at  "  Waredun,"  near  Hexham,  the  twcnty-fiftli  of  JanuaijiJ 
U38,*  Between  this  place  and  Wahvick  Grange  ia  the  finug^ 
jfient  of  a  crasi^  with  a  sheathed  swurd  cut  upon  it. 

CuBiiTERs,  East-Ciiesters,  or  Walwick-Chesters,  an. 

cicntly 
*  Scrip*  %  cd.  96*1. 


I 


I 


KORTHUMBJERLAKiy.  153 

decrtly  CUumum^  the  station  of  the  Ala  Secunda  Astonim,  is 
140  yards  by  200,  on  the  outside  of  the  ramparts,  which,  with 
the  ditch  and  large  ruins  iq  their  area  were  extant  till  of  late 
years^^  but  now  grass-grown,  though  their  Hnes  are  still  per- 
ceptible, and  the  ground  within  them  very  irregular  witfi 
foundations  of  buildings.  The  liuburbs  liave  been  between  the 
fort  and  the  river,  over  which  remiiins  of  a  Roman  bridge  here 
can  easily  be  traced  in  dry  seasons.  The  bases  of  the  piers  are 
like  fine  pavements,  the  stones  large,  and  joined  together  with 
faorkontal  dove-tail  cramps,  several  of  which  we  saw  in  their 
original  situation,  and  others  at  Mr*  C]a3rt6n*s  house*  Each 
of  these  large  stones  has,  in  the  centre  of  its  uppermost  super- 
ficies»  a  lewis,  or  poising  hole,  narrower  at  the  top  than  the 
bottom,  an  invention  attributed  to  modern  times,  but  evidently 
iDcient*  There  is  a  vault  in  the  area  of  this  station,  which  has 
not  yet  been  cleaned  out ;  and  behind  Mr.  Clayton's  house, 
§cveral  yards  of  tlie  Horn  an  wall,  and  its  tiitch  filled  witJi  water, 
in  grettt  perfection. 

There  are  several  sculptures  and  inscriptions  found  here, 
mentioned  in  the  Britannia  Romiina,  hut  none  of  them  any  way 
remarkable^  except  an  altar  dedicated  '*  to  the  Dii  Manes ^  by 
Fiibius  Honoratus,  tribune  of  tliu  first  cohort  of  Vangiones,"  a 
people  from  Belgic  Gaul,  **  and  Aurelia  Egleciane,  the  parentj^ 
of  Fabia  Honorata,  their  most  charming  daughter/* 

In  a  summer-house  in  Mr.  Clajrton's  lawn  are  several  anti- 
qaities*  the  produce  of  this  station,  the  most  curious  of  which 
are  the  following.     A  broken  altar,  too  imperfect  to  discover 

K  3  any 

•  Hofileytip*  143.  Braaifs  Newc.  I*  m%  **  Theiitc  of  the  Prato- 
ttmB,  nf  tile  eastcru  end,  is  very  di!4tLni;«iiii!Uable,  with  two  entrances 
tiiroiigli  the  valtiiin^  aiL^werinf  to  each  Bide  of  the  Prn^toriiiiu,  and  a  roaiJ 
leading  down  to  th^  river.  The  ^ouiid  withiii  the  vaifnin  i^  crnwtled  with 
the  ruhu  of  stunc  hiiUdings,  wl^ich  appear  to  have  stood  in  lineal  directions, 
formifig  »treett,  two  on  the  south  side  and  two  on  the  norlh,  intcnccted 
in  the  middle  by  a  crnsjt  street  from  norrh  to  aontiu  On  the  »outh  side, 
without  the  valhtm  and  fois,  niany  tuxos  of  huildiagj>  appear,  and  sonue  on 
llw  north.**    Hotc.  L  73. 


^'ORTUDMBEflLAKD• 

any  thing  from»    except   that  it  mentions   Ulpius,    who   wat  ] 

liieutenant  of  Britain  in  the  reigii  of  Commodas/  A  statue  off 
Etiropftf  of  very  pretty  workeianshipj  in  free-:itone,  but  broken] 
into  three  pieces,  and  the  head  and  arms  of  Europa,  and  the  | 
legs,  head,  and  tail,  of  the  bull  wanting.  The  feet  of  the  bull] 
rest  upon  a  long  scaley  fish»  symbolical  of  the  sea  ;— 

Ausa  e:»t  qnoque  regia  virgo 
Nescta  quein  premeret,  t<frgo  comidtre  tauH« 
TiiDi  Dgu&  ii  terra,  5iccoqiie  a  liltoie,  bfi-D^itn 
h'tLisik  fit^dum  primis  vestieia  pooit  m  tmdis* 
Ind«  abji  altenit^'iif  mediique  |)«r  i^qtiora  ponti 
Fcrl  pra^dnm.     Pavel  |j%c  ;  litUisqite  ablaUi  relictism 
Rcspiciti  €t  dexUii  cornu  itnet ,  altera  dorso 
Impoiiitii  Cfrl :  trrmulse  tinnantur  fiamine  ve^tes. 

OVID,   METAM* 

The  following  ioscnption  if  upon  a  large  free-stone  table,  al  j 
present  broken  into  four  pieces.     There  is  a  neat  moulding 
round    the  mscnption,    much  of  which   has  been   purposely  | 
erased.     The  letters  in  the  original  are  much  compUcated,  buti 
perfectly  legible  :— 

IMP  CAES * WTIEL 

AVG • 

*....... ,.p......B,  P CS  PP  DiVI 

mVi  SEVER.  NEP 

CAESAR.  IMPER.. 

AL/E.  IL  ASTV'R. VSTAT 

ER\  NT  PER.  BlARn^M.  VALER 
INSTAN TE.  SEl^IMIO  MLO,  P 
DEDICATVM.  III.  KAL.  NOVEM.  GR.^EO  ET  SEL.--. 

Concerning  this,  it  is  observable,  that  It  has  been  made  in  th^j 

time  of  Alexander  Severus,  by  the  second  wing  of  the  Asti,  tal 

coniraemorate  the  rebuilding  of  bome  ediHc^,  which  had  become] 

ruinous  through  age,  and  which  was  dedicated  on  tlie  third  of  the 

kalends  of  November,     I'hc  ruined  granery  at  Great  Chestera 

pas  also  repaired  by  the  second  cohort  of  tlie  Asti,  under  the 

same 

«  ZipliiK  I.  botii.  pp.  620— ^S-*, 


NOfWrRUMBBRLAKD.  l^^ 

tmnc  enipcriN'f  who  comnyenced  his  reign,  A«  D.  2^,  and  wta 
lurdert'd  ia  225,  We  f^uspect,  from  the  space  In  this  inscrip- 
Itan,  betwetr n  COS  and  FP,  that  its  date  should  be  fixed  in  2*26, 
rhen  this  Scverus  was  second  time  CM)nsuJ.  Laropridius  says 
'  him :  **  in  Britania  (ut  alii  volunt  in  Gallia)  in  vjco  cui  Stciia 
tst  eura  occiderunt."  The  erasurea  on  this  stone  prove 
he  fell  into  disgrace  with  the  soldiers.  Alf^vald,  King  of 
^onhatnberland,  in  A.  D.  788,  was  slain  in  a  place  called  by 
loveden  and  others,*  ^*  Scile- Chester  pwia  murum/*  It  tnay, 
rhaps  be  thought  a  wide  eonje<:ture,  to  suppose  that  Sicila^ 
!rUiimuni,  and  Scile-Chester,  are  names  of  tfie  same  place,  and 
JiBt  the  ground  here  has  been  sanctihed  with  the  blood  of  the 
benevolent  Alexander  Severus,  and  of  Alfwald,  called  by 
Simeon  of  Durham,  Rex  pi  us  et  justm. 

At  thk  statloQ  was  also  found  a  fine  consular  medalion  of 
{adrian,  four  inches  in  circumference ;  the  legend  roimd  iIjp 
bead,  Ilaclrlano  Aug.  C(Bsari^  and  on  the  obverse,  S*  P.  Q,  R 
Oplimo  PrincipL  S,  C,  encircled  with  a  civic  garland.f 

On  tiic  west  side  of  this  titatlon,  finely  situated  on  rich  and 

f  rising  ground,  and  commanding  an  extensive  and  weil-cuitivated 

prospect,  ifi  Cmestehs,  the  seat  of  Nathaniel  Clayton,  Esq.  It 

buik  by  John  Enington,  Esq,  of  Wnlwjck  Grange,  who 

^ifterwards  sold  it  to  Adam  Askew,  Esq.  patentee,  liigh-sherifl' 

of  tlie  county  of  Durham,  and  of  whom  it  was  soon  after  pur- 

chosed  by  it«  present  possessor. 

Warwick  Gravce  stands  on  a  rocV,  in  a  low  and  secluded 
situation,  on  the  brink  of  tlie  North  T}'ne,  The  ancient  dwell- 
ing was  bm'lt  afler  the  manner  of  the  border  towers :  the  addi- 
lions  to  it  in  tlie  modern  style.  It  was  the  seat  of  Anthony 
Errington,  Esq-  in  1551;  and  of  his  Jincal  descendiint,  John. 
in  tlie  ktter  part  of  last  century.  The  estate  is  leasehold,  mi- 
ller the  Northumberland  family.  There  are  several  Ilonian  an- 
tiquities, brought  from  Cilurnum,  and  <"hiefly  of  the  sepulchral 

K  4  kind, 


*ilai|.Dutt.CoUiiO. 


I^ic,  Hsf^nj^U  Cot  «pg. 
t  Wallis  IT,  m* 


kind,  in  the  garden-wall  here ;  but  none  of  them  Rfc  very 
tert'stjug. 

Walwick  was  purchased  by  the  kev,  Cuthbert  Wilson, 
of  Justice  Wilson,  by  Mr.  Dixon^  who  sold  it  to  Henry  Tulip 
Esq.  of  Fallowfield.  It  b,  at  present,  the  residence  of  the] 
Rer,  Robert  Clark,  llie  prospect  from  it  is  exceedingly  fine, 
reaching  as  far  as  Swinburne  Castle,  on  one  side,  and  to  the  | 
plantations  of  Minster  Acres  and  the  blue  mountains,  in  ihm\ 
district  of  Weardalc,  on  the  other.  Concerning  the  plinth  of  a  I 
ptllart  in  the  corner  of  the  Stack  Yard,  on  the  edge  of  the  I 
military  way  here,  Mr.  Hutton  observes :  "  I  saw  a  beautiful  i 
pedestal,  pannelled,  moulded,  and  fluted,  in  peHectton,  twoi 
feet  by  eighteen  inches,  no  doubt  a  Roman  relic,  degraded  t^j 
a  shubby  prop,  as  a  thing  of  no  value.*** 


NORTH  TINDALE. 


The  parish  of  Simokburk  is  remarkable  for  being  the 
largest  in  the  diocese  of  Durham,  It  extends  from  the 
Roman  W^all  to  Liddesdale,  in  Scotland,  a  space  of  thirty- 
two  measured  miles ;  in  wtiich  are  only  two  chapels  of  case, 
BelUngham  and  Falslone.  "  In  Nortiie  Tyndale  is  but  one 
paroche  church,  called  Simonsbume.  In  it  is  aliquot  sacella* 
Sens  I  hard  that  Simousbume  is  in  Sowth  Tyndale,  aad  that 
in  Nortlie  Tindale  is  onely  Belingeham  chspel,  longrnge  to  Si- 
inonsburne."f  The  aliquot  sacella  here  mentioned,  were  pro- 
bably the  chapels  of  Houghton  Castle,  Kirkfield,  FaUtone,  and  the 
one  at  Bumskirk,  on  the  south  side  of  Dead- Water,  where  some 
grave-stones  still  renmiup  Kirkfield  Chapel  is  about  half  a  mile 
from  Wark,  and,  by  an  arch  and  two  pillars  in  its  north  wall, 
appears  to  hnve  consisted  of  two  aisles:  a  tomb-stone  remains 
lit  it,  dated  A.  D.  1686.  The  parish  church  is  dedicated  to  Su 
Simon.     Edward  the  First  took  the  advowson  of  it,  with  other 

property^ 
•  R«man  WslJ,  p.  til.  t  Ld.  It.  Vol.  XJL  fol.  74. 


KORTRVMBSItLAKn. 


137 


I 


-property,  from  the  see  of  Durham,  in  the  time  of  Anthony 
Beck,  becaiMc  that  prelate  refuied  to  observe  a  treaty  the  king 
had  made  between  him  and  the  Prior  of  Durham.  John  Darcy 
left  the  advowion  of  it  to  Queen  Philippa,  who  gave  it  to 
Windsor  College.  It  fell  to  the  crown  by  the  attamdcr  of  the 
last  Earl  of  Den*'entwater,  and  at  piresent  belongst  to  Green- 
wich Hospital.  Its  revenues  ore  upwards  of  5000).  a  year  ;  but 
an  act  of  parliament  has  lately  passed,  to  divide  it  into  6ve 
rectoHes,  after  the  decease  of  the  present  incumbent,  and  to 
befttow  tliem  upon  naval  chaplains.  A  itcull,  says  Wallis,  waa^ 
found  in  a  grave  in  this  church,  with  the  fi^re  of  a  large 
scallop  thell  on  the  back  of  it,  and  of  a  torcula?  shell  at  one  of 
the  auditories.  The  chaucet  has  once  had  considerable  ele^ 
gance^  iU  door-way  on  the  south  side  being  rich  Gothic,  and 
its  original  windowi;  long,  spear-pointed,  and  finely  ornamented, 
but  now  walled  up.  At  the  east  end  of  the  south  aisle  is  the  efHgles 
of  the  Rev.  Cuthbert  Ridley,  a  child,  and  a  youth,  cut  in  stone, 
with  an  inscription^  dated  1625.  Mr.  Wallis,  author  of  the 
hiitory  of  this  county,  was  several  years  curate  of  this  parish- 

Simonburn  Caitle  formerly  belonged  to  the  Herons  of  Chip- 
chaae,  who  aold  it  to  the  AUgood  family.  '*  It  was  polled 
down,  to  satisfy  a  violent  curiosity  tlie  country  people  had  for 
•earching,  like  King  John  at  Corbridgc,  and  Nero  at  Carthage, 
for  hidden  treasure  ;  where  they  succeeded  no  better  than  those 
hro  royml  money-hunters,  who  got  nothing  but  rubbish  for 
iheir  pains.  Part  of  the  west  end  was  rebuilt,  1766,  with  twn 
imall  turrets  at  the  angles."* 

NtnfwicK,  also,  came  by  purchase  from  tJie  Herons  to  tha 
All^tKida.  This  seat  was  erected  by  Sir  Lancelot  A  Ugood,  Knight, 
who  waa  h^h-sheriff  for  this  county  in  1746,  It  is  a  hand- 
iOllie  building,  of  white  free*  stone.  On  the  west  It  is  screened 
iwth  a  fine  wood,  and  from  tlie  terrace  the  prospect  over  the 
fertile  banks  of  the  North  Tyne  is  eittremely  rich  and  diver- 
lified.     In  a  held  adjoining  this  house  were  five  upright  pillars. 


•  Widi»t  II.  55. 


138  KORTHUMBERIAKO. 

m  circular  order;  four  of  them  perfect  and  entire  m  1714,  the 
other  broken  ;  the  perfect  ones  eight  feet  high  and  nine  and  a 
half  over ;  the  circumference  of  the  area  in  which  they  stood 
ninety  feet.*  North-west  of  Niinwick,  about  three  quarters  of 
a  mUe»  is  Paik-Etid^  the  seat  of  Thomas  Ridley,  Esq.  sui^H 
rounded  with  fine  scenery,  and  grounds  in  excellent  cultivation^" 

fVark  is  enumerated  among  the  queen^s  possessions  witliin 
the  liberty  of  Tbdale»  in  1 567*     James  the  First  granted  it  t^H 
Theophilus  Howard,  Eail  of  Suffolk,  of  whom  it  was  purchaseJ^^ 
by  the  RatcHfTs  of  Dilston ;  and,  by  the  attainder  of  the  laa^^^ 
Earl  of  Derwentwater,  reverted  to  the  crown,  and  was  givon  fl^M 
Greenwich   Hospital.     Here   is   an  exp!oratory  mount,  called 
Alote  hftll,  on  which  the  RatclilTs  had  a  manision-hous^.     The 
camps  in  this  netghboyrhood  were  probably  formed  by  the  army 
of  Edward  the  Third,  while  he  vainly  wailed  the  return  of  tli^H 
Scotch  army  into  their  own  country,  in  1327.f     Giles  Heron^" 
of  this  place,  by  industry  and  care,  acquired  the  sum  of  8001. 
three- fourthi  of  which  he  left  to  the  poor  of  the  parish   of 
Simonburn,  and  tlie  residue  to  the  perpetual  maintenance  of  a 
echoobn aster  in  this  village*     He  died  in   168k     An  estate, 
called  Tecket,  was  purchased  by  his  trustees,  which  at  present 
lets  for  about  24<)1.   a  year  ;  and,  in  1805,  the  Governors  of 
Greenwich  Hoi*pital  assisted  the  neighbourhood  in  erecting  an 
elegant  school -room. 

Houghton  Castkf  the  seat  of  William  Smitli,  Esq,  fttandii 
proudly  on  a  smooth  sloping  bank,  on  the  southern  brink  of 
the  North  Tyne-  It  is  an  extensive  fabric,  and  immensely 
strong*  It  was  a  possession  of  the  Swinburnes  in  1326>  and  of 
the  Widdringtons  in  1567*  Adjoining  to  it  is  *' a  domestic 
chapel,  now  in  ruins,* 'J  Here  also  is  etn  extensive  paper f-rolU; 
and,  at  a  short  distance  hence,  on  a  woody  and  rising  ground, 
is  the  village  of  Hitmshau^h^  anciently  belonging  to  this  castle; 
and  where  also  is  the  seat  of  the  late  H*  Richmond,  Esq. 

Bkllinoham 
•  Wallis  IL  50.    Gouglis  Camd,  III.  *?48, 
♦  Johties  Froisart,  Vol.  L  p.  57.  %  Waltls  11*  67, 


I 


I 


KOIlTriOMBEltLAKD*  139 

Bellindham  gave  name  to  an  ancient  family,  who  were 
cd  at  it  In  1578,  and  m  1454' :  some  ruins  of  their  castle  still 

ttain  near  the  village.  Half  of  the  manor  belonged  to  the 
ArchhUhojis  of  York,  as  pitrcel  of  tlie  pos^^ession  of  the 
franchi^  of  Tindale,  prior  to  the  retgn  of  Heniy  the  Eighth, 
The  chapel  is  dedicated  to  St.  Cuthhert,  and  entirely  roofed 
with  stone  arches  in  rib-work :  tliere  are  many  grave-stones  in 
Its  floor,  fcniptured  with  swords^  and  other  emblems  of  the 
warlike  disposition  of  the  inhabitants  of  this  district.  Here  was 
a  weekly  market  on  Saturdays,  now  disused ;  the  fairs  are  on 
tlie  Wednesday  belbre  Easter,  and  on  the  first  Saturday  afttjr 
the  fifVeenth  of  September*  Nearly  oppo&ite  to  this  place,  on 
die  ?outh  side  of  the  North  Tyne,  is  He&Heside^  the  seat  of 
Willl«ai  John  Charlton,  and  of  his  ancestors,  since  the  time  of 
Edward  the  Sixth.  The  old  mansion-house  was  built  after  the 
manner  of  Lowther-Hall,  in  Westmoreland,  was  burnt  down  about 
seventy  years  since,  and  then  rebuilt.  The  present  edifice  was 
slso  twice  involved  in  flames,  by  the  negligence  of  the  house- 
carpenters,  during  the  time  it  was  building.  It  stands  on  a 
gentle  eminence  ;  the  grounds  around  it  are  well  clotl^ed  witli 
woody  and  agreeably  diversified  with  fine  sheep-walks.  The 
giirdens  and  fruit  walls  are  uncommonly  productive.  Five  miles 
above  this  place  is  Foist  one  Chape! ,  and  about  seven  miles 
ftirlher  up  is  Keelder  CaHle^  formerly  the  residence  of  a  famous 
border  chieftain ;  and  at  present  a  shooting-box  of  the  Duke  of 
Northumberland.  Sir  John  Swinbum,  of  Capheaton,  has  also 
%  shooting-seat  in  this  neighbourhood,  colled  M ounce* Know, 
^htmt  which  he  lias  paid  considerable  attention  to  planting.  The 
moora  here  are  scattered  over  with  cairns,  tumuli,  and  Druidicol 
monunients ;  and,  as  appears  by  the  large  quantities  of  wood 
buried  in  the  peat>mosses,  have  been  covered  with  thick  forests. 

Tanet  HaU^  about  two  miles  above  Hedieside,  anciently  be- 
longed to  the  Comins.  Concerning  this  place  the  lords  of  the 
council  wrote  to  the  Earl  of  Northumberland  and  Sir  Ralph 
Sadler  in  this  manner :— "  And  here  we  have  thought  mete  to 
put  you  in  remembrance  of  Tarsctt  Hall,  belonging  to  the  Lord 

Borrows  I 


^MO  HORTHUMBERLAl^t). 

Borrowi,  and  Hawgston,  beloDging  to  Sir  John  Wetheryogtoi! 
beyng  thought  mete  places*'  for  the  keeper  of  Tindale  to  \i\ 
in.*  It  is  quite  demolished.  Its  area  has  fonned  an  ohloi: 
•quare»  in  length  about  120  yards,  defended  on  three  sides 
a  deep  foss,  ten  yards  broad ;  the  east  side  lying  on  a  ttei 
descent.  At  each  comer  have  been  turrets ;  and  traces  of 
outward  wall  appear,  f 


REDESDALE 


is  the  name  of  a  district,  comprising  the  parishes  of  Ehdon  i 
Corscnsiiie.  Richard  do  Umfranvill  lie  Id  the  vale  ofRcdesdal^ 
by  tha  service  of  guarding  it  from  thieves  ;  j:  and  his  succe 
Gilbert,  held  it  •*  per  regalem  potestatem."^  But,  as  this 
trict  continued  a  nest  of  lawless  freebooters,  it  was  enacted 
parliament,  in  1420,  that  the  statute  of  the  second  year  of  Henr 
the  Fifth,  against  tlie  robbers  of  TindaJe,  should  be  extended  to 
those  of  Kedesdale,  "  that  they  should  be  outlawed,  and  their 
property  forfeited,"  Harbottle  Castle,  and  the  manor  of  Otter- 
burne,  were  held  oi  the  king,  in  capite,  by  Robert  UmfranvUI, 
in  14-28,  "  by  the  service  of  keeping  the  valley  of  Riddesdale 
free  from  M^olves  and  robbers,  which  service  was  adjudged  to  be 
great  serjantry.  Upon  search,"  at  tltis  time,  **  it  was  found  in 
One  of  the  books  of  knights*  fees,  in  the  custody  of  the  king's 
remembrancer,  that  Gilbert  de  Humfranvifl  held  Riddcsdal^ 
per  rcgaletn  potcftatem^  by  royal  power.  There  was  no  species 
of  taiure  in  England  known  by  the  name  of  tenure  by  royal 

power. 
•  Sit  R.  S^l.  St.  Pip,  Vol.  I.  p.  490.  t  Halclu  I.  193, 

t  Tost*  4t  'Nev.  p*  59f .  Hie  print  td  copy  of  thin  rrford  makei  no  metK 
tion  of  woKes  or  foxes;  but  a  Harkau  MS.  of  the  time  of  Henry  tfae 
Third,  *ay*,  in  one  part—"  Idem  Ifcnricfw  (enuit  d*;  Rege  in  capite  io 
I  com*  Nort]itttiil>n&  mancrium  de  Laxton--per  M-rjirjituuii  adfug^Md^  L^rvm 
cum  canibvs  ttLU  per  QVkTVon  arm*  r  awd  in  another  part — "  idem  Viiali 
tenuit  inaDerium  de  lax  too— -de  Kegt  in  capite  per  scrjcatiam  cwrrfndi  od 
txwm  Id  madatmn  Regit." 

IL  3e5. 


WORTRUMBERLAND*  141 

f)oif«r,     I  io  humbly  apprehendi  that  in  this  cas^  the  tenure 

'WIS  baronjTy  accompanied  with  a  fuU  power  of  a  Lord  Marcher 

^oreagaiitfi  Scotland,    like  that   baronial  power  which  was  an- 

^i^ientljr  vested  in  the  Earl  of  Chester,  for  the  time  being,  or 

^pume  other  great  Lord  Marcher  foreagainst  Wales."*     In  1567 

^-thk  •province'  belonged  to  the  crown* f     Lord  Redesdale  if 

the  greatest  landliolder  here,  but  the  Duke  of  Northumberland, 

m  Jord  paramount  of  the  district,  for  which  he  holds  a  court-lect 

at  Elsdon. 

RisiNGHAM  is  supposed  by  Camden  to  be  a  compound  of 
Old  Eogtiflh  and  German,  and  to  mean  the  Habitation  of 
GiantSf  because  Risingberg,  in  Germany,  signifies  •  the  moun- 
tain of  giants/  WalliK  says  it  means  •  the  hntnlet  on  a  rising 
ground,'  RlCCinjahseill  signifies  the  home  of  the  ozier  meet' 
dams.  This  is  the  modern  name  of  a  Roman  station  on  the 
western  branch  of  Watling  Street,  twelve  miles  from  the  wall, 
_io4  on  the  brink  of  the  river  Rede,  Its  area  contains  three 
acres,  three  roods,  and  twenty-six  perches,  and  is  covered  with 
tha  linet  of  ancient  buildings^  The  walls  are  high  ridges  of 
ruins ;  they  make  a  flexure  at  the  north  gate,  where  a  sluggish 
btck-water  from  the  Rede  lies  against  them.  The  ditch  is  in 
fiiaiiy  places  very  visible.  Opposite  this  station  lie  many  large 
ftenet  in  the  river,  with  holfs  in  them,  somewhat  in  the  man- 
ner of  lew  is- holes,  as  if  they  had  been  used  in  a  bridge.  Forty 
yem  since  a  mile  pillar  was  standing,  a  mile  south  of  the 
stitioA ;  and  at  present  there  h  one  used  as  a  gate-post,  oppa- 
ate  the  door  of  the  inn  at  Woodhridgc.  Waih'ng  Street  is  very 
fii^le  m  this  neighbourhood,  and  in  one  place  has  lefl  the 
sacteut  appellation  l^am^  to  two  farm-houses,  as  it  has  done 
in  Learning  Lane,  in  Yorkshire,  and  as  the  Roman  way,  Raking- 
dike,  from  Lanchester  to  South  Shields,  has  done  in  Leant 
Lantf  in  the  parish  of  Jarrow.  **  Here,"  says  Camden,  *'  are 
oumy  and  considerable  remains  of  antiquity;  and  the  inhabitants 
that  the  god  Mogon  a  long  while  defended  thii  place  against 

some 
•  Bfadoi,  Bar.  Aag,  p.  244.  f  Eaot,  10  Elk. 


14S 


KORTflUMB£RLAND» 


sotdon  or  Pagan  Prii 


Nor  do  tliey  speak  at 


some  soicum  or  ragan  rnnce^  r»*or  do  uiey  speafc  at  random | 
for  that  this  god  was  worshipped  here,  appears  from  two  altars 
lately  taken  out  of  the  river  here,  with  the  following  mscrip* 
tionsi"— DEO  MOGONTI  CAD.  ET,  N,  DN  AVG,  M.  G. 
SECUNDINVS  BR  COS,  HABITANCI  PRIMA  STA„, 
PRO  SE  ET  SVIS  POS.  This  ta  in  Trinity  College,  Cam- 
bridge. Botli  Camden  and  Woodford  begin  with  DEO,  but  no 
room  ur  trace  of  it  appeared  to  Hor^ley,  and  Woodford  has 
TAL».  instead  of  TA,  in  the  sixth  line.  Tliis  Mogon  waa  a 
local  deity  of  the  Cadeni^  who  are  the  8ame  as  the  Gadeni  of 
Ptolomy*  The  Bmeficiarii  were  Boldiers  who  attended  the 
chief  officers  of  the  army,  and  were  exempt  from  duty,  as  we 
learn  from  Fes t us,  somewhat  like  our  cadets.  Prima  Statio 
may  imply  that  it  was  the  first  northern  etation  at  the  time  the 
altar  was  erected;*  or  that  it  was  the  first  station  north  of  the 
wall.  Habitancuvt  was  evidently  its  Roman  name: — DEO 
MOVNO  CAD.  INVENTVS  DO  V.  S.  This,  perhaps, 
also  belongs  to  Uie  god  Mogon,— D.  M-  BLESCIVS  DIOVI* 
CVS  FILIAE  SVAE  VIXSIT  ANVM.  L  ET  DIE.  XXI. 
In  Trinity  College.  The  rydenese  of  the  letters  in  the  original, 
their  scattered  position,  and  the  stops  on  each  side  the  I, 
are  very  remarkable.f— ^HL    CVI    PRAEEST.    M    FERE- 

GRINIUS   SVPER.  TRIB. COH.    L    VANG    FECIT 

CVRANTE  IVL.  PaVLO.  TRIB.  In  Trinity  CoUegc. 
DEAE  TERTIANAE  SACRVM  AEL,  TIMOTHEA  P 
V,  S,  LL*  M,  The  original  lost,  and  nothing  known  respect- 
ing the  goddess  Tertiana.  HERCULI  IVL  PAVLLVi^ 
TRIB  V.  S.  On  an  altar,  used  as  a  gnte-post,  on  the  south 
side  of  the  station  in  HorsIey*s  time.  „.AVR*  ANTONINI. 
PII.  AVG,  M.  MESSORIVS  DILIGENS  TRIBVNVS 
SACRVM.  At  Trinity  College.  There  is  no  doubt  but  pro 
salute  impcratoris  M.  has  gone  before,  and  perhaps  the  altar 
has  been  to  Jupiter  Optimus  Maximus,  or  to  Jupiter  and  Uie 
numina   Augusti,  as  at  Benwdl      M.  A.  Antoninus,    called 

Philosophusy 
*  GottgUI  Camd,  lU.  230.  t  Horsley,  No.  XC 


HORTllUMBERLAlfl}.  H8 

^VhnosophtiB,  had  wdrs  here»  and  his  legate,  Calpumius  Agricoia» 
M  e  oamed  tn  an  inscription  or  two  in  these  parts ;  and  I  am  apt 
^0  think*    tliat  both  this  inscription,   and  some  others  in  the 
^»orth,  belong  to  that  emperor."*     DEO,  INVICTo  HER- 
<:VLL  SACR    L.    AEMLL.    SALVANVS    TRIB*    CoH.   I 
"VANGI  V.  S.  L.  M.     This  is  also  in  Trinity  College,  verj 
-entire,  large,  and  beautiful ;  on  one  side  an  ox,  on  the  other 
mhe  priest's  veil  and  pater  a,  f—,.  J  COS  Cvl  PRE  R  AVREL^fc 
^AST.  VETvsTaTE  CoNLaBS.     This  is  lost:    Mr.  Gale' 
-observes,  **  that  vetU8tate  conlabsum,  signifies  a  falling  to  de- 
-cajj  and  not  a  destruction  by  fire,  war,  or  other  enemy  than 
age  and  neglect.'*     NVMINIB  AVGVSTOR  COH  UlT  GAL. 
EQ.  FEC,    **  This  long  stone,"  says  Camden,  **  has  an  ele» 
gant  relief,  far  surpassing  the  rest  in  execution,  inscribed,  by 
tlie  fourth  cohort  of  Gaulish  horse,  >o  the  divinities  of  the  em- 
perors."     There  is  an  engraving  from  the  original,    wliicli  is 
m  Trinity  College,  in  Speed's  map  of  this  county.     Mars  and 
Victory  are  set  in  a  niche  on  each  side  of  the  stone.     *'  Tlie 
emperors,  in  honour  of  whom  it  was  erected,  I  take  to  be  Se- 
lenia  and  Caracal b,  who  were  much  hereabout,    and,    I  be- 
lieve, were  possessed  of  this  very -station,"  J     These  ten  pre- 
ceding inscriptions  are  all  mentioned  by  Camden ;  the  three 
following  were  first  publislied  in  Warburton*s  map.     MARTI 
VICTOR1...VS    PVBLL.JVS.   TRIE.  V.  S.  L.  M.     There 
is  Mars  and  Victory  ou  the  capital,  and  an  ox* s  head  on  the 
base  of  this  aUar,— FORTVNA  AVG  AEL  PROCVLIN  V 
a    The  third  of  these  is  a  dedication  MARTI  \1CT0RI,  by 
^tiibtme;  but  it  is  very  imperfect.    Dn  Hunter  ^  first  noticed 
the  following  fragment,  which   Hutchinson  saw  walled  up  iq 

ahouse  upon  the  station,. DOLOCHENO  C,  I\X.  PVBL 

PIVS  TRIB  ¥•  S.  L-  M-  The  letters  1  O  M  have  either 
been  at  the  top  of  the  plane  of  this  altar,  and  struck  off  with 
the  capital,  or  else  upon  the  capital  itself.     Besides  the  above^ 

Horsley 

*  Harftle>%  p*  ;a6«  t  GauRli,  III.  1^47*  |  Horsley,  p,  tSf. 

f  Piiibs.  Trans.  No.  ^78.    Gibi*  C«jxid.  JOBG. 


144f  XOBTHUMBBHIAKIK 

HorBley  haj  *  two  sepulchral  iDscripllons,  two  rdiefe,  and  an 
alt^  to  Jupiter,  found  here  ;  also  a  rude  bas  relief  of  a  Roman 
archer,  called  Ro6in  of  Bmngluitn^  or  Robin  of  Redetdak:  it 
is  near  the  Park-head»  about  half  a  mile  from  the  station,  on  a 
huge  piece  of  fallen  rock*  Mr.  Hutch! o&on  disagreea  with 
Horsey,  in  calliDg  it  Honian  ;  and  says,  that  the  appellation 
Robin  of  lledesdale,  was  given  to  one  of  tlie  Umfranvills,  and 
that  in  the  time  of  Edward  the  Fourth,  one  Hiliiard,  of  the 
Lancastrian  party,  was  thus  denominated.^  Thii  inscription, 
D  M  AEMILLIANVS  ANNORVM  X.  we  copied  from  tlie 
original  at  Caropville :  it  waa  comHiiunicated,  with  another  se- 
pulchral inscription^  to  Mr*  Hutchinson.  The  two  next  were 
aUo  found  here,  and  described  by  Lionel  Charlton,  in  the  Gtfn- 
tletnan^s  Magazine,  in  1753,  at  which  time  one  of  them  waa  in 
a  cow'house,  the  other  in  a  chimney,  at  Woodburn ; — 

1  D  M 

VI  xn  c.  R 
a  €  A 

AEMII   AEMIIANVS 
TRIB  eH.  1  VANG 

•  •..XII  :  O.  R 

Q  C,  J  A 

IVI.  VICTOR 

TRBV.  OH.  IV 

AKGONVM. 

Mr*  Brand  has  published  the  following  m  his  History  of 
Newcastle  4--MATRIBVS  TRAMARINIS  IVL.  VICTOR 
V.  S*  LM.  It  ia  upon  a  handsome  altar,  discovered  here  in 
1 783*  Spon's  account  of  the  Da*  Matres  ie,  that  they  were 
deified  women,  who,  while  living,  were  thought  to  have  the 
gift  of  prophecy,  and  after  their  death  seem  to  hare  been  wor- 
ahlpped  as  a  sort  of  genii,  or  tutelar  deities  of  the  places  wliere 
Ihey  resided.     This  altar  is  at  Carapeville. 

*  P.  ^40.  t  Hut«4i.  I*  pp.  191,  t9S,    Hofsfey,  p,  f39. 

t  VoK  r.  p.  6t«»    See  Honky,  pp.  SOl,  %rt* 


CtsDfiH  parish  is  about  twenty-tn^o  miles  long  and  seven  miles 
poadt  and  contains  about  J  500  inhstbitants.  The  village  of  Els* 
m  ha»  an  annual  fair,  for  cattle^  on  the  twenty-sixth  of  August* 
The  parish  church  is  ancieot,  and  has  once  been  mucli  larger 
on  the  north  side.  In  clearing  away  the  earth  recumbent  against 
north  transept,  the  bones  of  upwards  of  one  hundred  per* 
\  lately  found,  regularly  deposited  in  double  rows,  the 
9CII&  af  one  alternately  lying  between  the  thigh  bones  of  an- 
^(tb^*  Behind  the  chancel  was  also  found  a  tomb-stone,  with 
s  croes  and  a  sword  carved  upon  it ;  the  monument  of  a  young 
anaoi  as  i^peared  by  the  beautiful  freshness  of  his  teeth.  The 
Treetcrtf^hoiise  is  a  strong  old  tower,  with  a  circular  staircase  at 
<lfie  comer ;  its  lowest  story  is  spanned  with  one  large  arch  ;  on 
«t8  front  are  the  arms  of  the  Humfranvilles,  and  beneath  them — 
;X>llOKtie. 

Tlie  Mote  HiU^  on  the  north  side  of  the  village,  has,  as  its 
miame  evinces,  been  a  place  of  assembly,  on  public  occasions,  in 
Saxon  times ;  though  the  remains  of  strong  masonry,  and  two 
S^nscriptions*  found  upon  it,  prove  that  it  has  been  used  as  an 
E^xploratory  hill  by  the  Romans;,  though  its  features  at  present 
YoL,  Xn.  L  bear 

*  Buoei  of  dififerent  kiudi  of  animals,  boar'5  tusks,  an  iira  with  ashes  of 
»,  were,    abnut  thirty-five  years  since,  ^vt^  up  licrp.    The  iascnp 
\  are  in  Uontcy  as  follow  «  : — 

31.     B-NO  GENERIS 


DEO  MATvNO* 
PRO  SALVTE. 


HVMAN*  IMPE 
RANTE  C 


AUG.  PR.  PR.  POSVIT 
AC  DEDICAVIT 
C.  A,  ACIL, 

9dine  have  thought  Utat  these  arc  ft  apnenta  of  the  same  ftonf*,  tod  that 
'^kmt  iliDuld  be  read  tlius  : — ^Deo  Matiino  pro  aalute  et  bouo  generis  liumani 

i  ^pcranie  Gcta  Augusta  suh- legato  aairustali  propnHiore  pasuit  jie 

|^ft«dicavit  Cains  Aiilus  Acilius.' •• -Mr.  Ho rsley,  however,  did  not  entirely 
^o^ndde  in  this  reading,  supposing  iiiat  the  cha&mii  in  the  third  and  fourtJi 
lioes  of  tlic  recond  fbould  be  filled  op  isith  **  Calpumiui  Agncola,'* 


146 


KOTtXaUKTBERtAKD. 


bear  no  resemblance  of  Roman  origm.     It  consist*  oFtwo  cir 
clcs,  detached  from  each  other  by  ditches,  about  tliirty  feet  - 
deep,  aud  defended  by  high  breast*work  on  their  margins.     Fa^ 
bulous  tradition   relates  that  a  giant,  called  Ella,  resided  here, 
and  committed  great  ravages  in  the  neighbourhood. 

Bereness  Vhapel^  in  this  parish,  had  a  long  time  laid  in  ruir 
but  was  rebuilt  by  voluntary  subscription   in  1 793,  when  it 
endowed  wiUi  17301;   whereof  12001.  was  given  by  the  Kev.l 
L.  Dutt^ns,  rector  of  Elsden  ;  40DL  by  the  governors  of  Que 
Anne's  bounty,  and  1501.  by  the  subscribers  to  tlie  edifice. 
Ottehburne  Castle,  says  Leland,    siandcth  on   **  Otter] 
,  in   Kidt^sdale."     John  Hall,  Esq.   whose  ance&tors   had   been 
long  seated  here,  was  a  magii^trate,  and  captain  of  a  train-band 
fin  (iueen  Anne's  time.     He  engaged  in  the  rchcilion,  in  1715,  j 
was  taken  prisoner  at  Preston,  in  Lancashire,  and  executed  at  1 
Tyburne.     Ills  estates  being  forfeited,  were  purchased  by  Halll 
i  of  Catclengh,  whoBe  son  Hobeit  left  tliem  to  the  father  of  Mr» . 
I  JEllLif  tJicir  present  posge»5or,  whose  mansion-house  is  founded  j 
upon  the  .site  of  tiie  old  castle.     In  liis  account^  of  tiie  battle i 
Ifought  herCv  on  the  ninth  of  August,  1S8%S,  Froisart  describes  J 
I  this  fortress  as  **  tollerabJy  strong,  and  situated  among  marches^  j 
[•  .wliich  the  Scots  attacked  so  long,  and  so  unsuccessfully,  that  ] 
I  they  were  fatigued,   and  afterwards  sounded  a  retreat."     In  | 
council,  however,  it  was  agreed  to  renew  the  attack  in  the  cool  J 
of  next  morning  ;  but  to  many  of  them  tlic  light  of  that  morn* 
ing  nuvtr  shone.     Under  the   Earlh  of  Douglas,  Murray,  and  i 
f  March,  tliey  hud  a  little  time  before  entered  Northumberland,  i 
crossed  tlic  Tyne,  and  burned  the  country  as  fur  as  13rancepeth| 
Castle,  and  then  returned,  laden  with  plunder.     In  iheir  wajF 
back  they  lay  three  days  before  Newcastle,  in  which  time  there 
was  much  skinnishing,  and  Sir  Henry  Percy  lost  his  pennon  in 
on  encounter  uith  Douglas,  who  boasted  he  would  ftx  it  upon. 
his  Castle  of  Dalkeith.     The  morning  after  tins — 


»  B.  IlL  c.  l?5— 189.  Jobaef'Tx«Qsktiotij  Vol  IX,  p.  237^1 


KnKTHtJMllERLAKB. 


H7 


k 


fe 


The  Dowflaj  tiirnyd  hTin  homewarde  a^Jiym, 

For  »orti  w'ithow^bteii  tm>e, 
He  tonk  \m  iogtyti^e  a(  OtUetbomey 

Upon  a  Wedyiwday  ;• 

in  hi«  road  to  which  place  he  burned  the  castle  of  Ponelace^ 
and  took  \U  owner,  Sir  Ilatfino  dc  Jlphrl^f  prisoner.  While 
they  were  at  supper*  and  "  some  wt-re  gone  to  sleep,  for  they 
had  laboured  hard  during  tlie  day  at  tlie  attack  of  the  castle  ** 
of  Otterbume,  tJie^ English,  from  Newcastle,  entered  their  camp 
with  tJie  cry,  *  Percy !  Percy !'  It  was  moon-light*  The  as* 
tault,  byniistake»  was  made  antong  tlie  huts  of  tlie  servants^ 
which  gave  the  Scotch  (who  had  settled  tlieir  plans  of  defence 
in  case  of  attack)  time  to  wheel  along  the  mountain  side,  and 
fail  upon  the  English  llank.  The  battle  now  raged.  Douglas 
and  Hotspur  had  met,  and  the  Scotch  were  giving  way,  when 
Sir  Patrick  Hepburne  and  his  son  came,  and  renewed  the  fight. 
**  The  Earl  of  Douglas,  who  was  of  a  high  spirit,  seeipg  his  men 
d,  seized  a  battle-axe  with  both  his  hands,  like  a  gallant 
blight,  and,  to  rally  his  men,  dashed  into  the  midst  of  hii 
enemies,  and  gave  such  blows  on  all  around  him,  that  no  one 
eould  withstand  them,  but  all  made  way  for  him  on  every  side, 
until  he  was  met  by  three  spears  that  pointed  at  him;  one  struck 
him  on  the  shoulder,  another  on  the  stomach,  near  the  belly, 
atid  the  third  entered  his  thigh.  He  could  never  iliitengage 
himself  from  these  spears,  but  was  borne  to  the  ground,  Bght- 
ing  desperately.  From  that  moment  !ie  never  rose  again.  Some 
of  his  knights  and  esquires  had  followed  him,  but  not  all ;  for, 
though  the  moon  shone,  it  was  rather  darL"  Wljen  his  fol- 
lowers came  up  they  found  him  stretched  upon  the  ground,  with 
his  valiant  chaplain  and  a  wounded  knight  by  his  side.  **  Thanks 

L2  to 

•Tlic  Battle  of  Oltcrhunie,  oa  old  ballad. 

i Probably  Sir  "Ayraeruftde  Athelc,**  who  was  j*1ieriif  of  Nortliumberlaod, 
it3l3lK  Fontdaiid^  attptirtof  the  Mitf^rd  barony^  was,  at  t}th  time,  a 
tN^i»esxtou  of  Sir  Ttioniaji  Percy,  by  liis  Diarriage  wiUi  Elizabftth,  Co*Ucire*» 
•I  Dtfid  Siralolgie,  Earl  of  AthoL 


14i  NORTHUMBERLAND* 

to  God,"  says  he,  **  I  die  like  my  forefathers,  in  a  field  of 

battle,  and  not  in  my  cliamber  upon  my  bed.     Raise  up  myl 
banner,  and  continue  the  cry  of  *  Douglas!'  but  tell   neither] 
friend  nor  foe  that  I  am  dead.'*     The  main  force  of  the  Englisli^ 
army  marched  over  his  body.     Sir  Ralph  Percy,  badly  wound* 
ed,  was  soon  after  taken  prisoner.     The  contention  still  conti^ 
nued  fierce;  but  when  the  fallen  banner  again  came  forw'ard,! 
with  the  cry  of  **  Douglas !  Douglas!"  the  Scotch  made  a  furiou*! 
attack,  and  tlie  English^  weary  with  a  long  day's  march,  andi 
the  fatigue  of  battle,  at  last  gave  way,  and  were  completely  j 
overthrown.     Sir  Ralph  Percy,  and  other  distingubhed  charac^l 
ters,  to  the  number  of  1000,  were  taken  prisoners :  upwards  ( 
1800  were  killed,  and  above  1000  wounded.     Soon  afler  the! 
Bishop  of  Durham  came  up  with  flresh  troops,  but  Unditig  the 
Scotch  strongly  entrenched,  and  being  deceived  in  their  num' 
bers,  by  their  blowing  a  claniorous   concert  witli  their  horQ%J 
they  determined  to  return  again  to  Newcastle.     I  wm  told, 
Froisart,  that  this  battle  waa  **  la  plus  dure  et  la  plus  cruelle  < 
la  miex  combattue  que  jamais  bataille  fut.     Ce  que  croy.     C« 
Anglois  d'un  cost^  et  Eacocois  de  Pautre  sont  moult  bons  geni 
d'armes  et  quand    ili    se    trouvent   ou    rencontrent  au   partj 
d^annes  e'est  sans  s'epargner.    11  n*y  a  entrc  eux  nid  ho.    Tant 
que  lances^  e^pees,  hackes,  et  dagues  peuvent  durer  ils  ficrent 
et  frapent  Fun  sur  PauLre  et  quand  ils  se  sont  bien  battus  et  que 
Pun  partie  obtieut,  ils  se  glorihent  tant  en  Icurs  armes,  et  sont 
si  rejouts  que  sur  les  champs  ceux  qui  sont  prU  et  fiance z  sod^ 
rati^onnez ;  et  savez  vous  comment  ?  si  trestot  et  si  courtoisc 
ment  que  cliacun  se  contente  de  son  compaignon  et  qu'au  de- 
parteraent  ils  dient.  Grand  mercy.     Mais  en  combattant  et 
faisant  armc^  Pun  sur  I'autre  il  n'y  a  pouit  de  jeu  ni  d'epargne^ 
Ain^ois  est  tout  a  certes,  et  bien  le  monstrent  la :  ainsi  que  je 
rous  diray,  car  ceste  rencontre  fut  aussi  bien  demenee  au  droit 
d*armes  que  nulle  chose  peut  on9ques  estre.'' 

Mr.  Hor&ley,  in  a  letter*  to  R.Gale,  Esq,  December  thirteenth^ 

1729, 
*  Hutvh.  NaitlHimb.  I,  19a. 


I 


KORTIlrMBBRLA^D.  14P 

J729»  described  a  cairn  opened  near  Ottcrburae  about  thgt 
time.  It  WAS  computed  to  contain  about  alxty  ton«  of  \oo9c 
atones,  under  which  appeared  a  large,  flat,  undressed  stone,  that 
covered  a  cavity,  three  feet  long,  two  feet  broad,  and  about 
four  feet  deep.  It  was  filled  about  eighteen  inches  with  fine 
mould,  next  was  a  layer  of  ashes,  mixed  with  pieces  of 
boae  and  half-burned  wood,  and  then  two  feet  of  fine  river 
sand.  A  similar  monument,  near  High  Carrich^  was  used  in 
buddiDg  a  kiln,  a  few  years  since :  in  its  centre  was  a  cavky» 
formed  by  four  stones  set  on  edge,  and  covered  with  one  about 
eight  feet  long  and  five  feet  broad.  Hare  Cairn^  u  e.  army's 
lon^t  on  a  sheep-walk,  east  of  Ilachester,  is  a  mass  of  looae 
itaiiei^  twelve  feet  high,  and  sixty  yardg  in  diameter.  Toild- 
Lmo  means  Fox  Hill,  and  is  the  name  of  a  moor  about  n  mile 
south-east  of  Bereness  Chapel,  on  which  are  three  rude  stouc 
pillars^  in  a  triangle,  twelve  feet  asunder.  There  are  several 
[,  tumuli,  and  Druidical  circles,  scattered  over  this  district, 
cially  on  the  hills  towards  the  borders. 

At  ElishaWf  between  Otterburne  and  Rochester,  was  an  hm* 
pltal  and  a  chapel,  valued  in  the  Liber  Regis  at  Ids.  4d.  a  year; 
but  few  traces  of  them  at  present  remain.  About  the  spot  the 
ground  it  uneven,  with  foundations  of  other  buildings ;  and  a 
Soman  bridge  has  crossed  the  Rede  here,  as  is  evident  by  f^tones 
still  remaining,  joined  together  with  iron  cramps  and  lead. 

Rochester  is  situated  in  Wathng  Street,  eight  miles  north 
of  Risingham,  and  twenty  of  the  wall.  It  is  the  Brancniuni  of 
Plolo«ny  and  the  Itineniry,  as  is  proved  by  this  inscription,  dis- 
covered by  Camden,  and  at  present  in  Trinity  College : — D  R  S 
DVPL.N.  EXPLOR.  BREMEN.  ARAM  INSTITVERVNT 
N.  EIVS  C.  CAEP  CHARITINO  TRIB.  V.  S.  L.  M.  Le, 
Deae  Romae  sacrum  duplares  numeri  exploratorum  Bremenii  aram 
rnstrtuerunt  numeni  ejus  Caio  CsEpione  Charrtino  tribuno,  &c. 
Richard  numbers  Brcmenium  among  the  twelve  stipendary  cities 
io  Britain.  It  is  defended  by  three  rampart.s  oi'  earth  and  a 
vaU  eevcn  fe«t  thick,    and  fancifully  chequered  witli  ashlar 

L  3  work, 


I 


(All  KORTftUMBBRLANO. 

fktdn  M  Miftnii  eohortis  primetJUla  Varduhrum  dviam  Roma" 

_  Tl»#  tliiiH^  fiiUowiiTg  inscrijitions  we  copied  from  very  perfecl 

I  iiimI  t%(*4«hti(\il  ultitn  tbuncl  witluxi  thb  station,  iu  the  ruins  of  a 

I  Uiiti*  huiliiliigi  on  t)ie  west  side  of  the  south  gate.  The  onginaU 

H  iwri»  «il  CMttpeviUc  ;•— 

k 


URAK  Ml 

(irNto.  iiiA 


1fl»tifi«r 


one  SANCT^ 
MtKERV.E 

VKIll-\V2i 
TKtEASAll 


A  DEAE  MI 
NERVE  IVL 
CARANIVS 


-Mwfroae  <^  Genio 
fe.   Concerning 
bit  inscnbed  *  Deo 
and  that  the  terms 
faUf  establish  the 
HL  B  tUi  stipendaiy 
Ihii  lie  was  most  of 
«f  die  peo|ife  bto  classes 

of  Copper- 
if  ftttwi  as  llie  aeirenth, 
lii  Mercurial  and 
of  TrareUers. 
CoQceming 


KOIlTHUMSfiRLAKD.  Ut 

Concern  ing  die  other  two  of  these  inscriptionsi  there  Is  nothing 
remarbiblef  except  their  being  dedicated  to  Minerva  only,  and 
t}»e  last  being  erected  **  by  a  decree  of  the  senate."  There 
are  al«o  several  funeral  Inscriptions,  and  curious  figures  in  has* 
leltef,  at  Campeville,  brought  from  this  place,  and  amongst  the 
flat  tbta  fragment  :— 

-BLIO 
.-E  L.  AVG 
..ROCoS 
•  CoH,  I  F. 
..VB  CVRA 
-G.  AVG, 
IT.  F. 

from  which  little  more  can  be  gathered  than  that  it  has  been 
erected  m  memory  of  some  work  done  by  the  first  cohort  of 
Varduliansj  called  ^dii. 

In  our  visit  to  this  place,  In  September  1810,  we  found  two 
oken  inscriptions  in  the  possession  of  the  Rev.  —  Hope, 
rho  resides  within  the  area  of  the  stations ;  and  the  following 
curious,  though  imperfect  inscription ,  we  copied  from  a  stone 
in  a  wheat  field  across  the  rivulet,  and  opposite  the  north -ea«t 
comer  of  the  station.  The  top  of  it  has  received  much  injury 
from  the  weather ; — 


..C--,-.F  AVG. 

-...LVS  N  ANOR  ETEM  CoMPT 
B  R  BV  CoR  SVB  CVRVM 
IL  MAINIAE  ET  ALIMENT 
SVB  CVR  OPERVM  PVBL 
rVUA  LVCILLA  C.  F  MARITO 
BM  VIX  AN  XLVIIl 
M.  V.  D.  XXV. 

Cripchase  Castle.— Peter  de  Insula  heldChipches  and  Wit- 
^»illi  by  a  third  part  of  a  knight's  fee,  of  tJie  barony  of  Humfran- 
^ilL*    In  the  time  of  Henry  the  Eighth  it  wa&  the  residence  of 

Sir 
*  Tcsta«  de  Nevi)»  p.  $Bt* 


154  KORTHUMBEBLAKD. 

Sir  Jolm  Tleran,  in  whose  family  it  continued  four  tlesceiits,  imd 
Umki  fell  to  the  Allgoocis,  who  soon  after  sold  it  to  John  Ree^l^ 
E^»  de^CPTitlecl  from  the  ancient  family  of  Reeds  of  Trough- 
end*  in  [tede*d»ilc,  nnd  grundiatlier  of  its  i>resent  possessor* 
Ldand  calls  **  Chipchase  a  praty  towne  and  cattle,  hard  on  the 
eafite  parte  of  tite  anne  of  Northe  Tync  ;***  and  Sir  Uitfph  Sad- 
ler»  iu  u  letter  to  Secretary  Cecily  says,  '*  the  most  apte  and 
convenyq|it  placis  for  tlic  keeper  ot  Ttndak-  to  reside  in  on  all 
tlie  frontiers  are  Hawgston,  Langley,  or  Chipchase,  in  one  of 
whicti  iij  placis  men  of  ^errice  have  alwayes  been  plaoc?dy  and 
especially  for  the  well  executing  of  that  office  oC  Tyndale/*^ 
The  old  tower  still  remains :  its  roof  is  built  on  corhels,  and 
hoit  openings  through  which  to  throw  down  stones  or  scalding 
%vater  upon  an  enemy.  The  grooves  of  the  portcullis,  tlie 
porter's  chamber  above  it,  and  tattered  fragments  of  Gothic 
paititln^j'  on  the  walls,  are  exceedingly  curious.  The  large  ad- 
ditiouN  to  this  structiiie  were  made  by  Cutribert  Herron,  Esq, 
in  1621 ;  and  soon  after  it  came  to  the  present  family  it 
thoroughly  rcprtired,  and  much  improved  ;  the  chapel^  in  the 
lawn  was  rebuilt,  the  gardens  made,  and  the  grounds  covered 
witli  extensive  plantations*  This  delighful  residence  is  sur- 
nndcd  with  scener)^  of  the  richest  and  most  enchanting  kind; 
tind  from  the  neighbourhood  of  Wark,  Nunwick,  and  Simon* 
bum,  lias  a  bold  and  magnificent  appearance.  The  rooms  in  it 
are  fitted  up  in  a  splendid  style,  and  ornamented  with  several 
very  excellent  paintings,  amongst  which  are  a  fine  picture  of 
the  Descent  from  the  Cross,  by  Vandyke  ;  the  Marriage  at  Cana 
in  Galilee,  by  Tintoretto;  a  Holy  Family,  by  Rubens;  St.  John 
receiving  his  Revelations,  coloured  and  drawn  with  great  spirit; 
and  the  Forum  at  Rome,  with  the  Tale  of  M.  Curtius  leaping 
into  tlie  Gulph,  by  Paul  Panini. 

SWINEURKC 
♦  Vol.  VIL  fol.  75.  t  State  Papers,  VoL  L  p.  441. 

t  *rhi»  <li]ipel,  in  117],  was  given  to  t]ie  chiircb  of  Hc^xhatn,  b^  Odonel 

fTmiifrafivill.  'Vht*  oKl  cUapel  atoofl  near  the  front  of  the  casllc*  At  pre- 
trat  Ui*i  Virar  of  fliiilfertoo  pcrfonns  liatj  here  four  liijjt^  a  ^ear,  for  whjdi 
li»  rccftfti  fuftv  sbiilingi  a  year,  in  heo  of  all  ty&cs. 


i 
I 


I 


VOKTHUMBVfttAlfll.  US- 

SwiNBVRXB  Castlb,  the  flcat  of  Mrs.  Riddelly  iBan  elegant 
itone  building,  on'rising  ground,  and  surrounded  with  plantaF- 
tions,  laid  out  in  long  straight  lines,  which,  at  a  distance,  have 
a  dark  and  hard  appearance.  This  place,  wkh  Ganiterton,  waa 
held  by  **  Peter  de  Gunwarton,  of  the  baronj  of  Ba]iol,  bj  two 
knights'  fees,"*  in  the  reign  of  Edward  the  First  .In  1S96  It 
belonged  to  John  de  Swinburne,  from  whom  it  passed  to  Joha 
de  Widdrington,  by  marriage,  and  was  the  property  of  his  de- 
scendant, John  Widderington,  in  1596.t  Afterwards  it  came 
to  the  Riddells,  an  ancient  family,  some  of  whom  were  opulent 
merchants  in  Newcasde,  and  built  a  residence  out  of  the  hos- 
pital of  St.  Edmund,  in  Gateshead,  which,  owing  to  a  quarrel 
between  tbe  mob  and  an  old  senrant,  was  set  on  fire  as  the 
Duke  of  Cumberland  marchod  past  it  into  Scotland,  in  17M. 
William  Ryddel,  in  1569,  obtained  a  lease  from  the  crown  of 
coals  **  cum  les  water  pyttes  in  campis  de  Gateshed."^  Sir 
Thomas,  of  this  fiunily,  was  so  great  a  loyalist  in  Cromwell's 
time  that  1  (KX)1.  was  o&red  for  his  head. 

St.  Oswald's  Chapbl  standa  on  a  high  and  boU  situation, 
above  Chollerford  bridge.  In  a  field  near  it  sculls  of  men  and  hilts 
of  swords  have  been  frequently  ploughed  up.  **  There  is  a  fame,** 
says  Lelond,  **  that  Oswald  won  the  battle  at  Halydcne  a  9. 
niyles  est  from  St,  Otnoalde^n  asche^  and  that  Ilaliden  is  it  that 
Bcde  caulith  Ilevenfeld.  And  men  there  aboute  yet  finde  smaule 
wod  croesis  in  the  ground."^  A  large  silver  coin  of  St.  Os- 
wald was  found,  not  long  since,  in  repairing  the  chapel,  and 
there  are  many  ancient  charters  in  the  ciiurch  of  Durham  with 
seals,  bearing  his  head,  and  this  fnscription— ^APUT  SA^^CTI 
OSWALD  REGIS,  on  one  side,  and  his  cross  and  SIGIL* 
LUM  CUDBERTI  PR.ESULIS  SCI,  on  the  other.  The 
origin  of  the  sanctity  of  this  place  is  briefly  this :— Ceadwallo 
and  Penda  having  ravaged  the  whole  kingdoni  of  Northumber- 
land, 
*  Test  de  Nev.  p.  385.  t  Inquig.  p.  nort.  Oct  8,  15B5. 

%  Jones's  Index  to  RecVoL  U,  sii6  Ck4$9kmi.        f  It.  VoL  VIL  p.  $U 


the 

4 


156  KORTHUMBEHLAKD* 

land,  Ethelburga  and  Paulinus  fled  into  Kent*  and  the  p€Ot>le, 
seeing  no  end  to  the  oppression  they  suffered,  chose  Eanfrid 
King  of  Bemicia,  and  Osric  of  Beira :  they  botJi  renounced 
Christianity,  and,  aa  if  in  punishment  of  their  apoetacyy  the 
terrible  CeadwalJo  attacked  Osric,  slew  hira,  routed  his  array, 
and  plundered  hi£  subjects.  Eanfrid,  dreading  sirnilar  treat- 
ment, threw  himself  upon  the  mercy  of  the  tyrant,  who  mur- 
dered him  in  his  presence.  At  length,  in  635*  OswaJd,  Ean- 
frid's  brother,  rising  from  obscurity,  with  an  army,  small  in- 
deed, but  composed  of  vahant  men,  strong  in  the  fiuth  of  Christ, 
generously  resolved  to  oppose  the  usurper.  He  had  studied  the 
art  of  war  in  retirement*  and  now,  having  chosen  a  pro] 
situation  on  the  banks  of  Dcnis^sbum,  entrenched  himself, 
under  the  baiuier  of  the  holy  cross  waited  with  religious 
lemnity  for  the  enemy.  Ceadwallo,  flushed  with  recent  sue 
ce«s,  and  conitdcnt  in  his  numbers,  rushed  into  the  camp,  but 
waa  himself  slain  with  an  arrow,  and  his  army  routed.  The 
Nortlmmbrian  Saxons  thought  they  saw  the  interference  of 
Providence  so  plainly  in  this  victory,  that  they  called  the  field 
of  battle  HfJerifeUky^  i.  e.  Heaven  Field  ;  and  the  brethren  of 
the  church  of  Hexham,  for  many  years,  annually  resorted  hither 
on  tlie  day  before  St.  Oswald's  martyrdom  In  make  vigils  for 
hiB  soul,  and  sing  psalms,  and  oifer  the  Facfi6ce  of  holy  obla- 
tion for  him  in  the  morning.  Which  good  custom  growing  more 
into  notice,  continues  Bede,  they  have  lately  made  the  j»l8€e 
more  sacred  and  more  honourable,  by  building  a  church  at  it ; 
and  that  not  without  cause,  for  we  do  not  find  that  there  was 
any  sign  of  Christianity,  any  church,  or  any  altar,  in  the  whole 
kingdom  of  Bemicia  before  this  new  general  erected  this  ban] 
of  the  holy  cross,  when  he  was  about  to  light  with  a  most  bi 
barous  enemy.f 

Dkni^esburn,  is  at  present  called  Erringburn,     Hefenfelth, 

according 
•  Fcrtychron.  1.  b.  ell.    Sax.  Ann.  G.  Mtlms.  L  1,  c,  S. 
fEciuHiiL  L^.  €.i.t. 


lole 

1 


aceoidiBg  to  Bede,  wm  jaxts  mram,  ad  AqaOoiMmy  and  h 
nppQied  by  lome  to  be  the  tune  si  HdUmglom^^  h  old  writiBgo 
JUUbms  thatk,  HotyHilL  Bj  the  tnditioo  of  iooe,  tli» 
btttie  WW  ibug^t  ot  Bingfiddy  iriiere  thete  is  a  dopd^  fbmierijf 
under  Hexham  dburdi;  but  othen  oMert  that  k  hnn>tiied  m 
the  gnmndt  of  CoddejTt  beknr  the  dmrdi  and  cnMi  of  St. 
Onrald,  and  betweeo  Errmg^nini  and  the  WalL  Bat  whether 
h  was  at  HallingtOD,  CocUej,  or  Brngfidd,  Erringbuna  nost  bo 
dtt  same  bfook  that  Bode  calk  DeiiiBesbiiiii.t 

St.  Johmlbx  k  the  name  ofaparish,  the  dnwdiofwfakh 
k  dedicated  to  St.  Jdm  of  Bereriej,  and  stands  on  a  bold  and 
woody  hfadlimd,  having  a  prospect  of  both  arms  of  the  Tyne 
and  fiur  down  its  muted  stream.  BdowkkHSmadi^y  aplaoe 
where  bothart  and  nature  have  nnitad  their  eCbrts  to  render 
charming.^  Prior  Bidiard  caUs  k  Emeihtmf  whidi  he  inter- 
preto  JSsglf^i  HffiL$  It  was  to  thk  sweet  sdkode  that  John  of 
Beveilej  retired  from  hk  i^ostolic  hdwaffs  of  evangdinng  tibo 
En^ish  pagans,  previous  to  hk  appoii^ipmit  to  the  see  of  Hes- 
hsn^bjKingAUred.  Hereakowasdionlorjrof  St.  Michad, 
hdd  sacred  in  former  dajrs  Snt  its  power  over  inwlerate  diseases. 
It  was  plundered  by  two  Scots  from  the  army  of  David,  in  1138; 
both  of  which,  says  Richard,  soon  after  were  seized  with  mad- 
ness, 

*  HalMngioMy  before  tlie  dinoistion,  bekmsed  to  the  elmrcli  of  Hexham. 
At  present  it  paitlj  belongs  to  the  Errinftons,  and  to  Christopher  Soulsbv, 
Eiq.  of  HaUiMgton  Mmhu,  The  Erringtoos  derive  their  name  from  a  small 
hanlet  on  the  Eiringbam,  and  were  seated  at  it  in  137$.  Their  principal 
Nit,  in  1567,  was  (MtUy  Tower,  a  strong  old  fortress,  at  present  in  roim, 
tbongh  the  dongeons  and  rooms  in  its  tnirets  are  pretty  perfect,  and  traces 
of  painting  are  »tiil  obsertable  on  the  ptaster  of  iu  walls.  Near  HaUnigtoe 
is  t  hill,  called  the  Mote  Lac,  haTing  a  square  entrenchment  npon  it,  in 
tbe  middle  of  wliicb  is  a  hearth-stone,  for  kindling  ahmn-fires  upon;  and 
not  far  soath-wcst  from  St.  Oswald's  (Ihapel  is  a  curious  hi!!,  called  lUmgiitf 
Shows,  with  several  gradations  of  artificial  terraces  on  its  sidei. 

t  Smith's  Bede,  aps.  p.  7t0. 

t  Stubbs,  Act.  Pootif.  Ebor.  col.  1G92.  f  De  Stats.  &c.  col  991. 


15S  KoiiTmncBEitLAyki* 

iiesg,  and  wildlj  roved  about,  manglmg  ihetr  limbs  till  ibef 
died.  After  die  dk$olutiOD  *'  Tharinitag  and  Cliantri-cloee"* 
were  in  the  Imnds  of  the  crown^  as  parcels  and  posssedsions  of 
the  church  of  HexhaTn.f  In  1 7*1 1  it  belonged  to  John  Coats^ 
worth.  Esq,  firom  wliotn  it  passed  by  will  to  James  Jurin,  Esq* 
son  of  Dr,  Jurio,  the  learned  editor  of  Varenius'  Geographr* 
President  of  the  College  of  Phyaicians,  arc.  and,  since  the  death 
of  his  widow»  it  hcs  been  the  scat  of  John  Hunter,  Esq.  i\f  r- 
Coatsworth  built  the  man^ion-housei  and  Mr*  Jurin  made  great 
improvements  about  it* 

Beaupront  was  iJie  seat  of  David  Caroaby»  E&q^  in  1567  ; 
and,  in  1 628,  we  find,  in  tlie  list  of  grand  jurors  for  this  county, 
tlmt  it  was  the  residence  oi'  Henry  Errington,  Esq.  from  whom 
It  has  lineally  descended  to  itfi  present  owner,  John  Krrin^on, 
E«q.  Few  places  make  a  finer  appearance,  or  enjoy  a  larger 
and  belter  cultivated  prospect  than  tliis.  From  the  south  side 
of  the  Tyne  it  exhibits  a  long  and  hantUome  front,  surrounded 
with  fine  pleasure-grounds;  and  from  its  walks  are  seen  towns, 
towers,  and  hamlets,  an#  the  winding  stream  of  Tyne^  some* 
times  hidden  under  its  banks,  and  at  uthers  boldly  crossing  the 
meadows  in  broad  and  silver*looklng  reaches. 

Hexham. — A  similariry  of  name  Itsduced  Camden,  and  other 
antiquaries,  to  suppose  that  Hexham  was  the  Axelodunum  of 
the  Romans;  but  Horsley,  on  stronger  grounds,  refers  tli^t 
station  to  Br  ugh  in  Cumberland.:}:  He  knew  not  what  name  ta 
give  this  place,  *•  unless  we  suppose  it  to  have  been  Ptolomy's 
Epiacum  ;§  but  no  doubt  now  remains  that  Epiacum  was  either  at 
Lanchester  or  Ebchester.  ||  That  the  Roma/is  had  a  station  or 
town  here  is  prob:ib!e,  from  its  early  mention  in  Saxon  Jjrstory, 
and  proved  by  the  discovery  of  two  Roman  inscriptions  in  a  cr^^pt^ 
of  the  church.  The  first  of  them  is  upon  an  altar,  imperfecl 
at  the  top  ;  and  copied  by  Horsley  lhu5  : — 

LEG. 
^  Uwt.  MS.  f.  13.  t  Ech.  10  m'u. 

I  Brit.  Rom.  p.  190.         i  lb.  250.  |J  Uic  Cor.  SS— 5S» 


KORTHrMBERLANO* 


159 


I 


LEG.  A. ..• 

Q.  CALPVRK^S 
CONCESSmi 
VS.  PRAEF,  EO 
CAESA  C  ORl 
ONOTOTAR 
VAL  MANY  PR 
AESENTISSIMI 
NVMINIS  DEVS* 

bese  equltcs  Corionolotie,  Horsley  supposes  nught  be  Uie 
5itMetic  Crototiiates  of  wliom  Strabo  sard,  "  tlie  last  of  them 
was  tlie  first  ot*  the  Greeks;"  a  conjecture  wlitcli  accounts  fur 
the  Greek  inscriptions  found  at  Corhridge.  But  some  have 
tJioyglit  that  the  name  Corlonotota;  may  be  a  corruption  of 
Curia,  or  Coria  Otadenorum,  and  that  Corhridge  wai  the  place. 
Coriotioiar  In  the  anonymous  RavennaS|  is  not  uuUke  this  name.** 
Tile  Qtlier  is  on  a  tablet  in  tlie  roof  of  the  north  passage  to  the 
body  of  the  crypt ;  the  right  hand  side  of  it  is  hidden  m  the 
^al!^  and  the  blanks  in  the  fourth  and  (lf\h  line*  "  have  been 
■ignedly  erased  with  a  tool : — " 

DIP.  CAES.  L.  SEP. 

PER  IN  AX.  ET.  IMP*  C 

AYR  ANTONIN> 

VS  II*.. 

>; ^»-HORR 

VEXIIXATION 

FECERVNT  V t 

The  imperfect  state  of  this  inscription  renders  its  true  read- 
ing  very  douhtfuJ ;  and  as  the  names  of  Pcrtinax  were  Publiua 
Helvius,  Horsley  was  certainly  mistaken  in  attributing  it  to  that 

emperor^ 

•  Legato  Ati^^tali  proprit tmt  Qninifis  Calpiirniits  Cnuceisiniu,'*  prwtltrtu* 
equlluiu  Caisartcti&ium  Coiionototariim  niaau  ^tiest'uibaimi  biimmis  dd 
fVttnn  M»lvit.     Uornlof,  p.  2  iS* 

t  Lnpemtor  Cse^ar  Liicjii«i  8e|»timiii&  Pe rtiiiATC  et  impcnttor  Ctvsar  Merciu 
4iLrdii»  AniooiDfit  Vimfeiix  et  Ge(«  Ctftar  Coliorliufi)  VenUmtiouef  fece 


I 


160  IfORrHXTMBERLAKD* 

emperor,  as  he  lias  also  been  m  copying  some  parts  of  the 
original.  We  conjecture  that  it  relates  to  the  building  or  ro- 
pairing  of  some  granary,  and  tliat  it  is  akin  to  the  inscriptionfl 
belonging  to  the  time  of  Alexander  Severus,  and  found 
iCsica  and  Cilumum**  There  is  also  a  fragment  of  another 
scriptlon  in  this  cr^'pt,  over  the  head  of  a  door  way* 

In  674-,  two  hundred  seventy  and  eight  years  after  tlie 
sertion  of  Britain  by  the  Romans*  Hettoldesham,  or,  as  it 
more  usually  called,  llagustald^  was  made  the  see  of  a  bishop, 
by  St.  Wilfrid,  Archbishop  aC  York.    The  founder  presided 
over  it  four  years  ;  but  falling  into  disgrace  with  King  EgiflM 
and  into  a  controversy  vnih  Theodore,  Archbishop  of  Cant^PI 
bury,  he  was  deprived  of  his  dignities,  and  succeeded  in  this 
office  by  £ata,  Tumbert,  and  St.  John  of  Beverley ;  on  whose 
promotion  to  the  see  of  York,  in  687,  he  was  restored  to  hk 
neat  here,  in  which  he  continued  till  lii^  death,  which  happened 
in  6S7.    Afler  him  came  Accai  the  friend  and  patron  of  ^H 
Bede,f  and  the  chaplain  and  sharer  of  the  fortune  of  his  pr^ 
decessor.     He  was,  says  Bede,  a  most  zealous  man,  et  cor 
Deo  et  homlnibus  magnificus.     He  enlarged  and  beautified  I 
cathedral  church  ;  but  was  banished  in  752,  and  succeeded  | 
Fridbert,  who  presided  thirty -four  years,  and  was  followed 
Alcmund  in  767,  Tilbert  781,  Ethelbert  789,  Headred,  8C 
Eanbert,  or  Osbert,  806,  and,  lastly,  by  Tydfcrth,  who  died  ^ 
journey  to  Rome,  about   821,  and  wift  whom  the  biahopr 
ceased,  after  lasting  about  one  hundred  and  ilfty  years,  and 
about  fifty-one  years  before  the  devastation  of  Northumberlajid 
by  Halden  the  Dane.J     In  883  it  was  united  to  the  see  of 
disfarn,  at  that  time  removed  to  Chester  le  Street,  and  foUoii 
the  fortune  of  tlie  Bishopric  of  Durham,  till  Henry  the  Fid 
offended  with  the  conduct  of  Bishop  Flamhard,  gave  it  to  thic" 
see  of  York,  in  which  it  has  ever  since  continued.  ^h 

On  the  south  side  of  the  Tyne,  says  Richard,  stands  a  ton^^ 

rather 

*  See  Ornt«r,  p*  cxc.  No.  \S,  p.  cx^u  No.  8.  p.  tnlxxviii.  No.  7,  a 
t  BcdP,  Eccl.  Hwit,  I.  V,  c.  30.  |  Ric  Hag.  J.  i.  c,  xix. 


lOpwP 

,  and 
rlajid 

f9| 


1 


KORTRUMBXRLAND/  161' 

rather  tmall  at  present,  and  thinly  inhabited,  bnt  formcriy,  as 
fntiges  ef  antiquity  testify,  largo  and  magnificent  It  has  its 
Mme  from  the  Hestild,  a  rivulet  that  nms  near  it  Etheldreda» 
wife  of  King  Egfirid,  gave  it  to  St.  Wilfrid,  Bishop  of  York, 
that  he  might  raise  it  to  be  the  see  of  a  bishop.  The  church 
vas  dedicated  to  St.  Andrew,  and  is  much  celebrated  by  ancient 
hMtorians  for  its  feztent  and  beauty.  The  workmen  eniployed 
•  m  building  it  were  brought  by  St.  YnUni  from  Rome.  **  He 
begantheedificebymjildng  crypts,  and  subtemuMons  oratolrfesy 
and  wmdtng  passages  through  all  parts  of  its  foundaticins*  The 
piDaTs  that  supported  the  walls  were  finely  pdished^  Mpnt, 
snd  of  various  other  shapes,  and  the  three  galleriei  were  of 
immense  height  and  length.  These,  and  the  capitals  df  thdl^ 
columns,  and  the  bow  of  thp  sanctuary,  he  "decorated  with 
histories  and  images,  carved  in  relief  «on  tbe  stone,  and  with 
{Motures  coloured  with  great  taste.  The  body  of  the  church 
was  surrounded  with  wings  and  porticos,  to  which  winding 
rtaircases  were  contrived  with  the  most  astonishing  art.  These 
itaircases  also  led  to  long  waUdng-galleries,  and  various  wind* 
'n^  passages  so  contrived,  that  a  very  giM  multitude  of  peopte 
might  be  within  them,  unperceived  by  any  person  on  the  grounds 
floor  of  the  church.  Oratories,  too,  as  secret  as  they  were 
l)eautiiul,  were  made  in  all  parts  of  it,  and  in  which  were  altars 
of  the  Virgin,  of  St.  Michael,  St.  John  the  Baptist,  and  all  the 
Apostles,  Confessors,  and  Virgin^  Certain  towers  and  block* 
houses  remab  unto  this  day,  specimens  of  the  inimitable  ex- 
cellence of  the  architecture  of  this  structure.  The  reliques, 
the  religious  persons,  the  ministers,  the  great  library,  the 
vestments,  and  utensils  of  the  church,  were  too  numerous  and 
magnificent  for  the  poverty  of  our  language  to  describe.  The 
atrium  of  the  cathedral  was  girt  witli  a  stone  wall  of  great 
thkkness  and  strength,  and  a  stone  aqueduct  conveyed  a  stream 
of  water  through  the  town  to  all  the  ofiices.  The  magnitude 
of  this  place  is  apparent  from  the  extent  of  its  ruins.  It  ex* 
celled,  in  the  excellence  of  its  architecture,  all  the  buildiiq;^ 
Vol,  XII.  M  in. 


169  ROHTl{UMB£Br.AHP. 

in  England ;  and  in  tnitb,  there  was  notliing  Itke  tt,  at  tkat 
time,  to  be  found  on  this  side  the  Alps.*  "     Of  the  two  oi 
Saxon  churclies,  [iientJO»>cd  by  Richard,  there  are  na 
at  present. 

The  place  in  whiuh  the  Roman  aiuiquitie«  were  discovered, 
we  suppose  has  been  one  of  tlie  oratories  of  Wilfrid's  churcli 
Its  body  is  fitleen  feet  by  nine,  and  has  boen  approached  by 
winding  pas^ageSf  at  present  walled  up ;  access  being  obtained 
to  it  by  raising  a  large  tombstone,  and  defccnding  into  it  by 
a  long  ladder  out  of  the  churchyard.  The  number  of  carved 
stones  in  it,  which  have  been  applied  to  former  buildings,  evi 
dently  testify,  that  as  long  as  the  ruins  of  the  Uoman  fortre; 
lasted,  they  were  used  in  the  foundations  of  this  edifice. 

Thomas  the  Second,  Archbishop  of  York,  in  liis  visit  to  thi 
place  in  11 13,  struck  with  its  rtiinod  grmidear,  and  recollecting 
Its  ancient  dignity  and  opulence,  with  the  consent  of  its  rector 
and  vicar,  placed  a  prior  and  canons  rirgular,  of  the  order  of 
St.  Austin,  in  it.  The  following  inscription,  in  ligature  letter^^ 
in  a  ^let  of  the  tabernacle  work  at  the  entrance  into  tlve  choir, 
proves  that  this  archbishop  was  one  of  its  Iienefactors.     Oi 

pro  anima,  Dni,  Thoma?  S Pater  h\ijx\&  Ecclesiitt  Qui 

fecit  hoc  Opw.^.  The  letters  in  Italic  supply  the  parts  of  tlje 
mscription  broken  off.  In  various  parU  of  the  church  we 
found  the  letters  ri  laid  in  the  form  of  a  St.  Andrew's  crossi  on 
a  shield;  and  in  the  inside  of  the  manor  office  is  a  shi*»Id^ 
charged  with  St.  Andrew's  cross,  and  the  letters  t\&l}^  meao* 
ing  Rkhardm  Prior  ifaguslaldenm^  which  prove  that  the  edifice 
was  buildhig  in  his  time*  Richard  flourished  iu  tlie  relgt) 
Henry  the  Second,  and  died  **  sub  annum  ll^O.f"  To 
reign  of  Henry  the  First,  when  this  church  was  separated 
the  see  of  Durhaai»  we  may  therefore  date  ike  co«ajiieac 
of  its  r^-buildlng,  and  the  period  of  its  being  Bmshed  to  ll 

bttar 

•  Rich.  Pr.  Hag.  tot,  X  Script,  Col.  t9Q.    See  alto  KMm,  and  Bod**! 
l^c*  BhU  L.  V*  e*  xv. 

♦  %^03siua  tie  Hist.  Lat,  L.  II.  rap.^f. 


ioir^ 
raadjH 


KORTttDMBEJlLANO,  163 

Utter  tnA  of  the  time  of  Henry  the  Second.  It  is  in  the  form 
of  a  Greek  cross ;  the  tower,  near  tliirty-tbur  ywrds  high,  k  in 
the  centre,  and  appears  low  and  broad.  The  architecture  is 
mixed,  of  the  Gothic  and  Saxon;  in  one  pnri  tho  narrow  sharp 
windows  appear,  whicli  began  to  be  in  use  about  this  tiiae. 
Tht!  mtGrbr  Is  hfghly  finished ;  tlits  principnl  pillars,  which  are 
rather  disproportionate  and  heavy,  are  clustered,  and  suppoft 
Cothic!  arches ;  bat  the  members  of  the  archings  and  pilasters 
«rfe  finely  proportioned.  The  choir  i^  roofed  mth  wood, 
c<tv<?red  \t'ith  Ibad,  and  the  side  aisles  are  arched  with  stone. 
Jl  d6uh]e  gallery  runs  round  the  whole  structure,  oj»ening  witn 
Kdxon  arches,  each  opening  being  composed  of  three  arches^ 
the  centre  one  circular,  the  side  ones  painted ,  the  workmaii- 
mh'ip  extremely  fine,  and  tlie  pillars  light.*  Tlic  nave  was 
burnt  down  by  the  Scots  in  12t)6,  and  nothing  now  remains  of 
h  but  a  sadly  ruined  specimen  of  its  western  door,  and  part  of 
tbif  )»outh  wall  adjoining  tlie  cioi«ters»  Tlie  ivhole  edifice  has 
strong  marks  of  fire  upon  it.  The  choir  is  at  present  used  as 
the  parish  church,  and  crouded  with  most  inelegant  pewns  and 
leries.     On  the  pannels  of  the  screen,  at  its  entrance,  is 

inted  Dr^th*s  I)ana\  and  several  historical  subjects ;  and 
tPtCT  the  litany-desk,  at  present  placed  on  the  west  side  of  the 
tramie^t,  are  full-length  portraits  of  the  saints  Wlliric!,  John 
<iT  ''  Vy,  Acca,  Fridbcrt,  Gilfrid,  Alcnmnd,  and  Eata, 
n  inscription  above  their  head*,  *  Fum/atortSf  hitjus  locL* 

"Eiith  figure  Is  about  three  feet  lon<;,  the  drapery  good,  btit  the 
\  'It.     The  bishop's  pew,  and  the  oratory,  T\eiT  Prior 

Kiw-.^.v,  ^,  tomb,  have  been  a)ao  ornamented  with  paintings,  al 
p^estnt  much  defaced  by  time  and  bud  usage. 

tit  the  ^outh  aisle  is  a  mutilated  effigy  of  one  of  the  Urn* 
franvilles,  in  the  altitude  of  a  crusador ;  and,  at  the  entrance 
into  the  northern  transept,  is  a  recumbent  tigure,  with  clasped 
handt,  legs  and  arins  cuirassed,  tword  sheathed,  afid  his  shield 
charged  with  the  arm*  of  the  Aydens,     At  the  west  end  of  the 

M  2  north 

•  Holcii.  I.  91,  99. 


KOBTHUMSEHtAKD* 

fkorih  aisle  is  an  elegant  tomb,  supposed  to  be  in  memory  of 

Ur^vald,    King   of  Northumberland,   who  was  slain  at  Scale- 

Ichester,  in  788.'    The  effigy  that  belongs  to  ft  is  clad  in  the 

tohta  of  an  ecclesiastic     The  tomb  of  Prior  Richard  is  oma- 

Eieiited  wkh  several  rude  and  fanciful  carvings,   which  Iiave 

been  mistaken  for  Roman  antiquities,  but  which  Pentmnt  justljf 

litiles,    **  raonstruous  engravings  of  no  meaning  or  moraenL*' 

bKear  this  tomb  is  a.  beautiful  oratory,  now  a  pew^  and  above  it 

w  suspended  the  helmet  of  Sir  J.  Fen  wick,  who  was  slain  at  tlie 

battle  of  Marsden  Moor,  and  whose  sculi,  broken  in  the  same 

[place  as  the  helmet,  is  still  preserved  in  the  priory.     On  the 

liouth  side  of  the  altar  are  three  stalls  (and  two  others  have 

leeo  cut  away )  highly  omajnented  with  tabernacIe'^worLy  AO^j^J 

t  to  which  the  bishop  and  his  attendants  retired  during  the  elera*'^^! 

rlion  of  the  host,  as  is  the  practice  in  the  great  churches  of  the 

.continent.     Behind  the  altar  is  the  place  of  the  shrine  of  th« 

.  lioly  reiicks*    now  called  the  Old  School,  Hfly-nine  feet  long, 

•*and  twenty- five  feet  widCf  in  which  hare  been  found  many  stone 

iCoAiDS.     And  against  a  pillar  an  the  north  side  of  the  altar  stiU 

►'remains  the  fridstooi^  or  seat  of  sanctuary,  concerning  which 

I  Jlichard  tells  ns,  **  that  by  seizing  any  one,  %ing  for  refuge* 

.'within  tlie  four  crosses  on  the  outside  of  the  towiit  a  penalty  of 

y  sixteen  pounds  was  incurred ;  within  the  town  tlie  penalty  wet 

thirty-two  pounds ;  within  the  walls  of  the  churchyard   forty* 

eight  pounds;  within  the  doors  of  the  choir  H^L  and  besides 

*  these  penalties,   penance,   as  for  sacrilege,  for  each  offence ; 

I  ^ut  they  who  shall  presume  to  seize  any  one  in  tlte  stone  chairi 

,  near  the  altar,  called  the  Frid-stool,  or  at  the  shrine  of  holy 

fVelicks,  behind  the  altar,  for  such  flagitious  crime,  shall  not  be 

allowed  to  purchase  remission  by  any  sum  of  money,  but  shaU 

be  bootUsSy  incapable  of  pardon,*  *' 

This 

•  Lib.  It.  cap.  XVI.    "Hiis  privilege  of  saactuary  wa«  fii^t  prorured  by 
WilfrRl,  itnl  iu  a  ^uil  r-iiicpniin^  ihc  iMjht  of  it,  in  1^92,  tfic  Arrlibuhopy 

of  York  iilcuiJi'd  Jiit  rUim  of  imiiienuiri&l  luage,  upon  which  the  kiag  i 

«oun«if 


if, 
t 


I 


KORTKUMBEKLAXP*  1^5 

This  church  had  large  possessions^  a  catalogue  of  which  i^ 
itill  preserved  in  the  maiior*oiBce  of  the  abbey,  and  ii  caJled* 
the  Blnck*Book :  it  was  gleaned  for  the  Monasticon*    At  the 
diasolutionp  the  priory  lands  were  valued  at  12^1.  lis.  Id,     flo- 
bert  HolgatCt  Archbishop  of  York,  in  1545,  gave  the  manor 
in  exchuige  for  certain  church  property,  and  retained  nothing 
but  episcopal  jurisdiction.*     Several  of  it*  poi^sessions  were  ia 
the  hands  of  the  crown,  in  1567»  but  sold,  in   1578,  to  Sir 
John  Foster,  Knt,  Bant.      In  1660  they  devolved  ta  his  son- 
rin*law,  Sir  John  Fenw-ick,  Knight,  whose  grandson.  Sir  John 
Ptfiiwick,  Bfirt.  «iold  them  to  Sir  WiUiatn  Blackett,  Bart,  from 
irhom  they  descended  to  T,  R,  Beaumont,  Esq.   of  Bretton 
Park«  in  Yorkshire,  by  marriage  of  Diana,  daughter  of  the  late 
^Sir  Thomas  Wentworth  Blackett* 

The  Priory  stood  at  the  west  end  of  the  church.    Its  doi- 

and  chapel  were  to  be  seen  not  many  years  since^     Sir 

^'nald  Carnaby  f  repaired  it,  and  his  arms,  with  the  date, 

M  3  1539, 

«ouoci]  eslAbli&hed  hit  right ;    and  Ed\Kiird  the  Tltinl  cnnfirmed  Jura  Ke* 
ilia,  atid  the  n^t  of  teufhs  and  6ft«'ciitti'i  to  it,  »llowiog  the  archbishop 
I  \m  OMTU  officetft      No  \au^\  hailiff  eoufd  enter  \m  muxior.     He  hetd 
pruc^nerfi  and  parted  \ritU  them  ntlih  own  will*    He  had  a  market,  callows, 
u)d  ctiaitcU  of  fug]tiv(*9  untl  fotou^  rotidcmned  in  the  luaiior.    Mttdox^t  Bar, 
Aug,  p.  t5<.     These  pn^tleve*  Vieic  abridged  in  I4ii,  on  accotiat  of  the 
plac?  bciiii;  an  a&vlmn  to  citttku^  and  iobbe»-a  ;  and  finilly  ovrrthruwo  in 
the  twenty -seventh  of  Henry  the  Ei^ith,  when  1  be  Arch  bislia|>  of  York, 
■od  hit  tem|ioral  eUancelbr,  were  made  josticeji  of  the  peace  for  the  ikk§ 
of  Hexbum,  which  disttict^  in  tlie  fourteenth  of  Elizabeth,  was  ajuiexed 
to  Uie  county  of  NorthnmberUnd.    TIte  only  remain.^  of  ihene  aociait 
fiaiicliise»,   existinp^  at  present,  arc — a  conrt  of  record^  and  a  court  of 
pleat,  over  ^hicli  a  steward  presides ;  aod  a  court  baroo,  of  which  tlie 
biitiffof  the  ntanor  is  the  jn  dee. 

*  B.  Waiis'i  Sqr.  I.  19,  4k 

t  There  wan  a  warm  dbpute  between  the  Dnke  of  NorthumbeHaad  and 
Sir  Ralph  Sadter,  in  1559,  concerning  Lady  Caniaby^  houiie  beui^  made 
the  reiidrnce  of  the  keeper  of  Tindale,  in  whicb  Sir  Halpb  sayst— *♦  Hex- 
ham ii  no  apte.  no  mete  pt^ice  for  the  tervice  of  the  keper  of  XyBdal^     Nor 


166  liOBTIiUMi^l^I^AtiO* 

1539,  rematu  ovec  a  door  hi  the  mi^nor  office:.    Here  i$  a  finely 
carved  oak  bedstead,  around  the  fringe  of  tlie  tester  of  whicli^i 
is  this  inscnplioD,  in  Gothic  capitals  :—••*  •Eboracenaii  l^icKi 
seicifi  mcdit  hoc  opus  A*  ****<•  -  omini  mUlIsimo  quingiat  • 
Tbt!  ituperfections  were  caused  by  im  ignorant  workiuan,  wh^^ 
niled  the  fringe  to  tlie  po^t&  of  the  bed, without  the  raouldii^pj 
prhich   formerly   went    between  them.      The  priory  was  aJ&i^l 
med  by  Sir  Walter  Calverly  Blackett,    Bart,   ^nd   a  fcnf^ 
yjears  since  was  completely  rebuilt  by  Mr.  Beaumont*     Ko  part 
of  the  old  building  remains,  eJ(cept  the  mana^  olScCt  the  re- 
faoory^  and  a  sm;dl  specimen  of  the  claistor»,  ua  one  pai^  of  J 
which   M'as  lately  dug  up  a    butiou^    gravestone,    i335Crij^^4p 
FVEEI  VHDANI,  and  ornamented  with  crosses  and  swords* 
The  Gatewa^t  which  Jeads  to  the  north  ftonl  of  tlu&  man&ioi^ 
bears  strong  marks  of  Saxon  architecture,  ^d  h  3upposv4  ^  i 
have  been  coeval  with  Wilfrixl's  cluirch.     There  are  aJ^o  twi\^ 
towers  in  the  ciixuit  of  the  walls  of  the  old  uionasiejy,  whici| 
^hibit  marks  of  high  antiquity.     One  of  them  is  built  over  n » 
gateway,  and  was  formerly  the  town-hall,  but  at  present  a  ses'* 
^oos-room,  for  the  county  of  Northtuiiberlandj  and^  a  coiuit* 
bou&e  for  the  manor  of  Hexljiim,     The  other  stands  on  a  hillj^  { 
h  square,  has  small  loop-holes,  broad  corbel  battl-emeuu,  au<4 
two  dungeons,  which  were  used  as  prisons  while  tlie  town  bad 

palutino 

1h  my  tyme  I  am  sare  there  never  lay  any  snch  in  Hex]iam|  saving  onley  Sir 
KegiiaUlc  Carnaby,  who  liad  lever  lye  in  liis  ownc  honne,  though  it  were 
not  the  mctest  place  Tor  the  servicer,  then  feke  any  all»cr?v  Nt'vej'  the  lc«s> 
1  hitvp  learned  *iiice  my  comyng  hitijer,  Uial  Mr.  Slingtibie  hath  «  ^ret 
desyrc  lo  He  In  Hexham,  wher  indcde  he  haiih  leva  for  the  most  part  tliis 
xij  moncth,  ever  since  he  had  thofl^icc,  in  a  hotise,  which,  if  he  woU  neds 
lye  in  Hexham,  may  serve  him  ha  ^vellnuwa$  it  hath  done  before;  and  if 
hi'  be  wery  fjf  that  lioii'-e,  yet  m  iIil-'io  m  Hexham  i}  towers  of  the  quene's 
ni;yeities,  whicti,  m  I  am  ciedihJy  injiwriucd,  willi  IhcJip^nce  of  xx^,  tp 
make  u  Utile  re  P'-irationi  will  ierve  as  good  a  ma4i  a»  Mr.  Slingshie 
but  fur  liU  own  ewic  and  comodyt*^,  Iien^ns^  ned&  have  my  lady  Caroabie*! 
home,   becui^^  It  la  the  fayrcst  ia  tjxu  tpwnc»"     Statu  PajjcK,  YqL  1, 


IVORTHUBrBERlAm.  167 

fli^tiwe  pmllegM.  **  On  an  oak  mantleplece  of  one  of  the 
ctork  chambers  is  tai  inscription^  which  seetns  to  consist  of  moral 
^ntencetf.*'* 

This  town  is  finely  situated  on  the  soutli  side  of  the  Tyfte. 
Its  streets  are  narrew,  and  not  w^  built.  It  has  a  market  oA 
Taesdtjf^  tad  annual  fairs,  August  the  fiflh,  and  NoreAiber 
the  eighth.  Leather,  gloves,  and  htfts,  arc  its  chief  manuftec- 
tures*  Here  is  a  firee-schoc^,  founded  by  Queen  Elizabeth, 
June  25th,  1598.  The  Mercer's  Company,  in  London, 
founded  a  lecturesbip  in  the  church,  in  162S,  under  the  will  of 
Richard  Fiskbome,  Esq.  which  has  opulent  revenues  at  present. 
This  Uiwn  gave  birth  to  two  pridrs  of  its  church,  John,  and 
Richard  de  Hexham.  John  continued  the  History  of  Durham, 
from  1130  to  1154,  which  Twisden  published  among  the  De- 
cern Scriplores,  from  a  single  MS.  in  Benct  College  Library, 
Cambridge.  Richard  wrote  '*  A  History  of  Hexham  Churcit 
and  Bishops;^'  **  The  Reign  of  Stephen;"  and  «  The  War 
of  the  Standard  ;'*  also  published  among  the  Decem  Scrip- 
tores,  f 

John  Nevil,  Marquis  of  Montague,  getieral  of  the  forces  of 
Edward  the  Fourth,  gained  a  decisive  victory  near  this  town, 
at  a  place  called  the  Linhills,  on  the  southern  bank  of  Devils- 
water,  over  the  forces  of  the  deposed  king,  Henry  the  Sixth. 
The  Abacoiy  or  cap  of  state,  adorned  with  two  rich  crowns, 
was  found  upon  one  of  Henry's  attendants ;  and  his  general, 
the  Duke  of  Somerset,  was  taW§  prisoner  and  beheaded,  as 
were  several  other  distinguished  characters,  at  Hexham.  Mon- 
tague's success  procured  him  the  title  of  Duke  of  Northumber- 
land. Henry  was  soon  after  taken  prisoner ;  and  his  queen 
and  son,  after  many  miseries  and  adventures,  arrived  at  tJie 
house  of  Rene,  of  Anjou,  her  father.  Duxiield  and  the  Queen's 
Cave,  places  near  the  field  of  battle,  date  their  names  from 

M  4  this 

♦  Hntdi.  I.  106.     Cough's  Caind.  ITI.  ?49. 

+  Sfld.  Prffif.  ad.  X.  Script:    Wharton's  Angl.  Sac.  I.  Piicf.  48.    T«il 
Bib.  Brit.  p.  628. 


1611  KORTHUMBl^llLAKD^ 

tint  e%ent*  A  serious  riot  dso  to(4  place  in  this  town  oil  tW 
ninth  of  March,  1761,  between  a  v^ry  large  coucoursc  of  fieo* 
pie,  collected  to  oppose  the  halioting  for  the  militia,  and  a 
troop  of  the  North  Vork  militiii.  After  Ensign  Hart  and  a 
private  were  killed,  the  magistrate!!  commanded  the  mnitia  XQ 
fire  upon  the  raob^  tbrty-five  of  whom  were  killed  on  the  s-poU 
and  about  liOO  badly  wounded* 

The  Abbey  of  Blanxhelano  stands  in  a  narroir,  green 
valley,  surrounded  by  moor«  and  morasses,  and  in  about  two 
miles  from  the  head  of  the  river  Derwent.     It  was  founded  by 
k^alter  de   Dolbeck,  in   116^,    for  twelve  preirionstratensian 
anons*     The  abbot  was  summoned  to  the  parlitimenta  held  in 
1291  and  1295.     lu  revenues,  at  the  iuppres^ian^  were  valued^ 
by  Speed,  at  141.  ds.  ld«    It  was  granted  by  the  crown  to  John 
iBellow  and  John  BrixHolm»  and  aller  tfiHt  brcarae  the  propetty 
lof  the  Forsters,  of  Bambargh,  who  forfciud  it»  in  1715,  after 
rhich  it  was  purchased  by  Lord  Crene^  and  by  him  leH  10 
I  charitable  U£e$*     Part  of  the  church  ts  litted  up  for  Uie  um  of 
the  parish,  and  contains  some  old  grave-stone«.     The  gateway 
of  the  quadrangle  of  Uie  abbey ^  and  the  abbey  itself,  ore  pretty 
I  entire.     A  mite  from  it,  near  llunfttanworth  chapel,  ts  a  curious 
^  arched  x'nttfip  Ibriy-five  feet  iong>  and  twenty-five  feet  wide. 
Also  in  this  neighbourhood  ie  Bo l beck,  which,  in  the  cleventb 
and  twelilh  centuriea,  was  the  barony  of  a  famous  family  of  its 
own  name;  it  was  forfeited,  witii  the  Bywell  bnrony,  by  Uie 
Earl  of  Westmoreland,  in  Qiccn  Clizabctli*i$  reign  ;  it  at  pre- 
sent is  a  manor  of  George  Sitvertop,  Esq.  of  Mini&ter  Acaxs, 
a  seut  abou(  which  great  and  laudable  improvements  have,  of 
late  years,  been  made  in  planting. 

PAuuHoe  Castle  has  its  name  from  stiwding  on  a  prmid 
eminence.  It  was  the  capital  seat  of  the  barony  of  the  Hum- 
franviJles,  and  given  to  them  by  Willium  the  Conqueror,  with 
whom  tljcy  came  into  England.  It  wtis  gallantly  and  SiUCcesiS' 
fully  defended  agaim^t  William,  King  of  Scotland^  in  the  time 
of  Henry  the  Second.     Odonel  Ilumfranville  also  defended  it 

against 


J 


V01lTHVlfBBmi.A«]K  16§ 

die  Scots  in  1244,  and  plundered  his  neighboun  to 
repair  ita  roof.  Gilbert,  of  this  fiunily,  died  in  1845,  and  ia 
called,  bj  M.  Paris,  ^  a  famous  baron,  the  guardian  and  orna* 
ment  of  the  northern  parts.''  Three  of  this  family  were  Earb 
of  Angus,  viz.  Gilbert  the  Third,  who  died  in  1272;  Robi^ 
who  died  in  1S84 ;  and  Gilbert  the  Fourth,  who  died  without 
iasue  in  1381.  Su:  Robert,  half  brother  of  Gilbert  the  Fourth, 
was  sheriff  of  this  county  in  the  ye^rs  1871,  1376,  1400,  and 
1404;  and  Sir  Kobtrt,  grandson  of  the.  second  earl,  waa  a 
knight  of  the  garter,  and  Vice- Admiral  of  England,  in  1410: 
be  brought  such  plenty  of  cloth  and  .com  from  il  Scotch  war, 
that  he  was  nick-named  Robin  Mend^Market.  He  was  slain  at 
Baugie,  in  Anjou,  in  1419.*  From  this  family  Prudhoe  came 
to  the  Tailboys,  who  forfeited  it  at  the  battle  of  Hexham. 
The  crown  granted  it  to  John,  Duke  of  Bedford,  and  after- 
wards to  Henry  Percy,  first  Earl  of  Northumberland,  in  whose 
fiunily  it  still  continues.  This  castle  was  tenanted,  in  1557,  by 
Hepury  Percy,  brother  of  Thomas,  Earl  of  Northumberlaild  ;f 
though  in  1559  it  is  described  as  **  old  and  ruinous,  being 
walled  about,  and  in  form  not  much  unlike  unto  a  shield 
hanging  with  one  point  upward,  scituate  upon  a  high  moate  of 
earth,  with  ditches  in  some  places,  all  wrought  with  man's 
hand,  as  it  seemeth,  and  is  of  content,  all  the  scite  of,  with  a 
little  garden  plat,  and  the  bankes,  by  estimatciou,  sc.  iii  acres. 
— ^There  is  within  the  scyte,  and  without  the  walls,  an  elder 
chapellf  which  hath  been  very  faire,  and  covered  with  slate." — In 
this  there  was  a  chantry  for  two  chaplains,  founded  by  Gilbert 
Ilumfranville,  first  Earl  of  Angus.  *'  The  gate  is  a  tower,  all 
massy  worke  on  both  sides  to  the  top  of  the  vault.  Above  the 
vault  is  the  chepell ;  and,  above  the  chepell,  a  chamber,  called 
the  wardrobe."  The  outer  walls  appear  to  be  the  oldest  part 
of  this  fortress,  as  the  square  towers  in  them,  on  the  west  side, 
have  circular  bases,  and  the  covered  way,  which  leads  to  the 

inner 

*  HoUinsbed,  II.  536—578. 
t  Lodge*!  niiut.  of  Brit.  Hist.  Vol.  I.  p.  e54. 


170  K0iiTin'M«EiitA>n*w 

iimer  u»d  semicircular  gskc^  is  of  much  stronger  and  better 
Biasofiry  thiiD  tiie  lower  fiart  of  the  tower  ati  the  guteway  ilMlt^ 
Tlie  keep  measures  ^*  one  way  IS  )  chords,  aiiotber  wa^  sdl 
j^eards  north  aad  south,  of  thrte  storyes  onJy,  and  ot*  heighft 
XV  yeards,  or  tkereabouts,  besides  the  battlements,'*  It 
had  winding  galiei'ies,  gained  out  uf  the  walls,  Tiie  ground 
high  towards  the  river,  and  on  tlie  south  the  waih  have 
dci^eiided  by  deep  ditches,  rrosied  by  a  draw-bridge.  Two 
families  live  amongst  tiiesc  ruin^»  which  hmre  hitely^  in  niaiv 
pbces,  been  secured  irwn  entirely  fkJling  tSgOtllGri  by  repamni 
itie  parts  most  dJ lapidated* 


eigoi 
ndiM 


COliBIUDGE 


mry, 

thj 
raiHH 

thi-V 


b  aented  oa  a  rich  plain  on  the  north  side  of  the  Tyae,     It 
called  Corabridg<s  in  771,  at  which  time  there  was  a  utoiuister 
at  iL^     Da^id,  King  of  Scots^  had  his  tents  here  in  January » 
H3S,f  while  he  was  plundering  the  adjacent  countf}' ;    an^ 
anuiet^  from  Scotland,  in  the  yeai«  i29G  and  1311,  burnt  thi^ 
ioH  D*    The  manor  wm  held  in  fee  ikmn,  at  die  annual  rent  { 
forty  shillings,    by  tlie  CluTerings^    of  Wtirkworth,    by  gra 
from  King  John,   and^  continued  wkh   them   till   Edward   th?^ 
First's  time.     Atter  1533  it  was  purchased  by  Henry,  Lord 
Pen:y,  and  still  continues  in  tliat  family.     This  town  waa  ai]»^| 
Ciently  a  borough^  and  sent  members  to  parlimnent,  a  privilege 
dhcoutinued  for  many  centuries.      King  John  granteil  it  aa 
annual  fair  on  the  day  of  John  the  BuptiBt^  and  a  weekly  mar- 
kek     In  Leland^s  time  tlie  names  of  divem  streets  remaine<|^H 
here,  and  he  ibund  great  tokens  of  old  foundations*     By  tradi-^^ 
lion  this  txiwii  had  once  live  churches,  only  one  of  which  now 
relating :  it  is  dodiontcd  to  St  Andrew,  and  has  been  built  out 
of  the  neighbouring  Uoinan  istation ;  on  a  grave-stone  in   the 
notth  uisle,  is  tliis  inscription,  iu  modern  Gothic  characters : — 

Hk 
•  Uic.  \U%.  toL  29a,  t  Joh.  H«?.  Cal.  ?60. 


XQllTHUiaiBftLAilB.  171 

^0  j%cet  in  tcrrift  AftUni  ftlhia  HafO* 

By  the  church  is  an  old  tower,  which  was  once  the  town  gaolp 
though  Camden  calls  it  *^  a  little  turret,  built  and  inhabited  by 
the  vicars." 

CoRCHESTER  is  a  Roman  station,  at  the  confluence  of  the 
brook  Cor  with  the  Tjme,  half  a  mile  west  of  Corbridge.  Sonne 
have  thought  that  this  was  Ptolemy's  Citria  Otadenorum^  but 
Horsley  makes  it  tlie  Corstofitztm  of  Antoninus.  It  was  "  al* 
most  levelled"  in  Horsley 's  time ;  "  but  abundance  of  n^edals, 
inscriptions,  and  other  Roman  antiquities,  have  been  found  at 
it."*  The  foundations  of  the  part  belonging  to  Greenwich 
Hospital  are  untouched,  but  the  rest  of  theni  are  entirely  razed. 
When  this  was  done,  remains  of  a  hsifh  were  found,  one  room 
of  which  was  ornamented  with  a  nea^  small,  green  bordering. 
The  ruins  of  the  Roman  bridge  here  are  ^till  discernible,  espe- 
cially on  the  south  side  of  the  Tyne.  Th.ere  are  various  altarai, 
inscriptions,  and  othjer  curiosities»  the  produce  of  this  sti^OP* 
in  possession  of  different  persons  in  Corbridge ;  of  George  Gib- 
son, Esq.  of  Stagshaw-Close  House ;  and  of  the  Rev.  Robert 
Clark,  of  Walwick.  But  the  most  curious  of  its  productions 
are  the  two  celebrated  Greek  inscriptions,  foi^nd  in  the  church* 
yard  of  Corbridge  :— 

HPAKAEI 
TTPIfti 

APXI£P£IA 

A.C'i'...THC 
Ba;MONM 

eCopaC 

nOYAXEPM 
ANE0HKEN 

.  )^^^^f^  them  i^ake  aa  hexameter,  the  first  being  read:— 

HfaicXii 
•  BhU  Kom.  397. 


ns 


lfO]lTIItrMB£tlLAN]>. 


Iti  17*5,  a  fine  stiver  plat e^  or  lanx^  nineteen  inches  and 
half  long,  and  Bdeen  inches  broad,  and  weighing  148  ouncefigj 
was  found  on  the  margin  of  a  HttJe  brook,  on  the  ea«t  side 
Corbridge,     It  is  at  Alnwick  Castle.      Sir  John  Clerk  mad^ 
[  *'  no  question  of  its  being  a  tabula  votiva^  and  that  it  had  t)eeii 
f  Jiung  up  or  kept  in  some  temple  at  Corbridge,  dedicated,  pei 
[  Iiaps,  to  Ceres  or  Apollo."     It  has  a  flat   rim,  an  inch  and  m 
rquarter  deep,  charged  with  vine  leaves ;    and  the  middle  of  it, 
is  adorned  with  figures  of  Apollo,  Vesta,  Juno,  Minerva,  and 
Diana,  each  with  their  proper  symbols,  &c.*     The  figures  arc 
in  has  relief;  the  minor  parts  have  been  executed  witli  punches. 
On  the  back  are  a  few  dotted  letters,  which  were  probably  the 
I  workman's  signatures*     The  work  is  neither  of  the  best  nor 
tithe  worst  of  times:  the  figure  of  Vesta  is  extremely  well  exe-. 
Itcuted,    the  posture  free,    ttie  drapery   soft   and  easy*      Also 
^hbout  the  same  time  was  found,  on  the  other  side  of  the  riTer^ 
nearly  opposite  the  place  where  the  lanx  was  found,  a  silver 
Icup,  weigliing  twenty  ounces ;  on  one  part  of  it  are  six  equi 
stant   compartments,    each   containing   the  Christian  mgnci« 
gram.     **  It  may  have  probably  been  a  chalice,  and  tlie  diib^ 
though   of  Pagan  workmunsl»ip,    may  have  served  as  a  pat- 
ten." t 

Dixston-Hall  standi  on  a  bold  situation,  on  the  east  side 
of  the  brook  called  Devi  Is  water.  Here,  in  the  time  of  Henry 
the  Third,  was  the  baronial  seat  of  Thomas  de  Devilstone, 
whose  family  had  resided  in  it  t>om  the  time  of  the  conquest* 
After  tliem  this  place  was  successively  possessed  by  the  Tin* 
dales,  CrasLer.s,  Claxtons,  and  RatcHttes,  which  last  family  had 
it  in  1457-  Sir  Francis  liatclifle  married  Mary  Tudor,  natural 
daughter  of  Charles  the  Second ;  and  James  the  Second,  in 
1687,  created  him  Baron  Dilston,  Viscount  Lang  ley,  and  Earl 
l«f  Derwentwater.     His  son  James  being  engaged  in  the  rebel* 

iio% 


I 


*  Qoogh*s  Canid.  ITL  250. 


t  Ibid. 


voftrauiiBKfti.Ain»/  tli 

UflBy  in  1715,  wat  taken  and  bdieaded,  when  the  whole  of  HI 
eitateiwere  forfeited  to  the  crown,  and  given  to  GreeikiwlGb 
HoapkaL  The  Hall  was  buUt  in  1616,  l>y  Francis  Ratclifle^ 
Eaq.  MDiif  after  falling  into  ruin,  completely  removed,  by  ihi 
advice  of  Mr,  Smeaton.  It  stood  adjoining  to  tlie  old  toner  iof 
the  DevilatoneSy  which  still  remains.  In  the  chapdf  which  b 
kepi  in  decent  repair,  tlioogh  not  used,'  is  a  vault,  containing 
tbt  remains  of  several  of  the  Ratdiffe  fiunily. 

Arwmx  Castls  stands  on  the  west  side  of  a  deep  dell,  and 
by  the  present  extent  of  its  mini  seems  to  have  been,  at  one 
time,  n  place  of  great  sise  and  strength.  It  is  encompassed 
with  a  minoos  outward  wall,  pierced  with  arrow*holes«  Hcse 
is  a  staUe  arched  with  stone,  and  having  stone  mangers.  It 
gave  name  to  a  family,  whose  heiress  Edward  the  First  mn* 
tied  to  Peter  de  Wallis.  Afterwards  it  bdonged  to  the 
Baymessy  of  Bolam,  who  held  it  from  1368,  to  the  rdgn  of 
Gbtfks  the  First.  A  moiety  of  it  belonged  to  the  Camabys  of ' 
Haltom  Towsb,  a  strong  old  seat,  with  turrets  at  its  fiatf 
eomers,  and  which  that  family  obtained  by  marrying  an  hdrasa 
of  the  Haltonsy  in  Edward  the  First's  time.  They  were' a 
branch  of  tlie  Camabys,  of  Camaby,  near  Bridlington,  in 
Yorkshire.  This  estate  was  sold,  in  the  beginning  of  the  last 
century,  to  John  Douglas,  Esq.  and  from  him  descended  to 
the  Bldcketts,  of  Ma^fen.  Here  is  preserved  a  sword  of  the 
Camabys,  sixty-four  inches  long ;  and,  a  short  distance  to  the 
north,  is 

Halton  Chesters,  the  Hunnum  of  the  Notitia,  and  garri- 
soned by  the  Ala  Saviniano.  It  lies  between  the  two  barriers, 
and  on  both  sides  of  the  present  military  way.  It  seems  to 
have  been  supplied  with  water  by  an  aqueduct,  from  a  spring 
on  the  higher  ground,  which  a  countryman  told  Horsley,  for- 
merly contained  the  speaking  tmmpet,  which  ran  through  the 
whole  length  of  the  wall.  The  border  part  of  the  station  Is 
called  Silver  HiU.  On  the  south  side  of  it,  the  walls,  ditchea^ 
and  the  interior  buildings,  appear  in  large  aad  confused  heqia 

of 


1*4  sscirrrwitxtASTi. 

m  -u=s»     Tr*  ic^s=3r-r^r-  :  m£T  ietcns  to  have  been  rounct,  and 
a  zjBia  ic  -uEs  iiir-rf-  JLrr^r  :h:D  a:  cihcr  places,  plainly  Indi- 
ra-* "lie  resaiES  ?c  i  itlir  i^«-€t.     Th-:  iuscriptions  belonging 
13  ::.<7jef-  ▼•^.i  I-i:-*Jit  n-fz:!:-*,  are  few  and  incurious. 
5!-:ca  liS  ^ce  irrr  :»?tr  iy^s^L  s  ct£in;r.al  «tone,  with  LEG  II 
A'«~ ,-- 1-  :i  1  CT-.;  irr^T^-wiih  etgle*  hf^d^  at  each  end;  another, 
-"nraiti!:   rcao   ry  r  f  i:,  ^.ih  -^  ir.icnptioDy   in  a  border, 
L-i:-.  X:\  '^■^r  .--  HrSTIN"?  PKOCVL:  and  a  tWrd,  eleven 
:^:.:  zs  >»  *l-\-  .T^-rnSs-f,  UL  VI.  V.  P.  F.  FEC.    Ctreat  abund- 
LTO?   ::"  sc^  b.TTs*.  l~jr  W  -Scii^  c:"  nascie  shells,  many 
Ctiri^v  arc  &  c^jtipj?  rr-^.  z*i^  ic  Mjre^,  have  been  dug  up 

'?'«'w-t;  :^  ij""?  :>:  r^fci  :»»  Vt^!!?-  2§  2  b^ronr  held  in  capite 
.i"  :*i  i,-^;.  rr  H.u:?  i:f  ?aii-?I.  bj  ±c  serrlce  of  five  knight's 
f  v<  c  '  i-=c  -t'  -'• --"^  n.^*:  r*£5  :*:t  w^r-i  ?f  Xewc25tlc,as  his 
srj-ssvr^  :c.i  -  v^  ^^  ir  T"~.ljr::  H'^'::*.  """ho  invested  them 
"•e^-T-n:.  !:r  I^.^— "i  r  r  f^j^.Tic"*  rrii::: ::  »r*=::f  to  the  NeviPs, 
g't:  -i^-:?  zx^  tr  "«»arTier«ua!»L  wV  fxr:>l!-c  :r  in  1  jTT,  after 
».•!.-•  .  t »  :cr-:rj«fi  ^;  --  'rrizc^  .k  de  Ff-.-ncLs  of  Fen- 
,  .:  -  -,»w^  !:?it  »  •  /  V  -  V  Tr:(>r-rr  ::"  :he  Rcr.  Septimus 
>,.',j,  r-  :.i  mir-JiT-z   m-.-ih  zbe  ^yl-^-^  c:  the  last  of  that 

-  Z'lrsniwr  :i  ?7^e"."  Siij?  liesiarvfv.  :^iis  of  the  for- 

-. .^^':  :>T-jr^  7  :.^>^*  **  ^  *?'.:3ded  :a  !enc:h  a.'!  of  cne  street, 

•Tcn  ue  river,  er  *.i:*r  -y   Ttiw.  L«  divided  in!o  two  several 

r-->i*cf.  i-:-:    '--'-i^  •-^''  ^'='  '"^^'•.•^•i^'t  me::,  whcse  trade  is  in 

irvu-werfr.  :cr  tfee   rtfr^ensen   and  bordertrs  of  rhjf  country. 

YStT  jfc  sooject  :o  tht?  shieves  of  T\  aedcle,  and  compelled, 

w:gr  am*  samwer,  o  br.n^  in  all  their  cattle  and  sheep  into 

1^  iOWt  ia  the  nkht  *t-a<or»,  and  watch  both  ends  of  the 

j^^  and,  when  the  enemy  approacheth,  to  raise  hue  and 

-.     1b  FrweH  town,  the  ancestors  of  the  Earl  of  Westmore- 

^^il^afeir  tower,  or  gate-house,  all  of  stone,  and  covered 

'^^^z  mMnlng  to  have  proceeded  farther,  as  appears  by 

the  beighc  of  a  man,  left  unfinished.^'    Facing  the 

castle« 


I 


irORTHUMBE1lLAlT%  IfS 

mmBtle^  on  the  southern  margin  of  the  river,  are  the  rums  of  a 
•<}oxnestic  chapel :  the  piers  of  the  bridge,  mentioned  by  Cam- 
•^en  and  Penant,  are  stiil  stand ingi  and  have  prububly  belonged  to 
41  wooden  bridge,  which  lead  to  tliis  chapel,  and  to  the  southern 
^arts  of  the  baronies  of  Bywcll  and  Bolbeck,     Tht?    town   is 
small  at  present,  but,  both   in  appearance   and  gttuation,  the 
most  Interesting  of  any  in  this  county*    The  woody  banks  of  the 
riTcr,   the   water-fall,   the  castle»    and  the  two  churches>  all 
withia    a    narrow    compass,  group  agreeably    together,     Mr. 
Hodlgsoii's  house  is  of  Payne*s  architecture,  and  girt  with  a  iine 
lawHt  and  stately  forest  trees.     A  silver  salver^  of  Roman  work- 
manship,   and   inscribed  DESIDEKI   VIVAS,   was  found  in 
the  Tyne,  neur  this  place,  al\era  flood,  in  1760* 

At  OvtXGfiAM,  was  a  cell  of  black  canons,  subordinate  t& 
Hexham,  and  founded  by  ouq  of  the  ITumfranvilles,  barons  of 
udhoe.  Speed  values  it  at  131.  a  yean  In  the  parish  church 
is  a  tomb  of  one  of  the  Addisons,  who  purchased  the 
hnds  and  appropriations  of  this  house,  and  resided  here,  till 
their  possessions  were  sold  to  Cliarles  Clarke,  Esq.  from  whom 
they  went,  by  marriage  of  his  daughter  and  heiress,  to  William 
Biggc,  Esq.  a£  Benton,  This  town  had  a  royal  charter  for  a 
oiurket,  and  was  governed  by  a  baiMl  Near  it,  at  Wylam^ 
ire  large  coUieries;  and  Wvlam  Hall,  a  se;rt  of  the  Bbcketts, 
m  the  seventeenth  century,  and  at  {present  of  Christopher 
ckett^  Esq,  North  of  Ovlngham,  on  the  line  of  Hadrian's 
l^aUum,  is  WELxoy,  now  a  small  hamlet,  but  once,  as  exten- 
foundations  testify,  a  considerable  village.  This,  in  6S% 
the  royal  villa  of  King  Osweo,  which  Bede  calls  An  Mtr- 
aad  in  which  Finian,  Bishop  of  Lindisfarne,  buptiifc^ 
Mcrciaii  kK>g,  Peada,  and  Sigberet,  King  cff  the  Ea^r 
Wkltosi  ToavBR,  aiitiently  the  seat  of  the  Welton 
mkw^  and  at  present  the  property  of  William  Bosti^ll,  Esq. 
Biitton  Hall,  Yorkshire,  is  failing  fan  into  rtiins.     At  it  wi$ 

saw 
•  Hiit.  Aap.  I  nL  c,  «1,  $f. 


176  KORTnuMBERLANB. 

jiuw  this  iiiscriptmn :  LEG.  IL  AVG*  F,  on  a  large  Aton^ 
oul  of  the  opposite  castellurn  of  the  wall. 

RuTciiesTEH,  the  Vindohala  of  the  Notitia^  was  the  stat 
.  of  the  first  cohort  of  the  Frixagi.  It  has  been  a  consider 
fort,  h'dvlng  hiid  towers  not  orily  at  its  corners  and  gates,  bd 
also  in  each  intemiediate  space  between  them*  Its  inside 
paved  with  flat,  unsquareU  freestones^  lately  taken  up,  on  the 
east  side.  A  broken  statue  of  Hercules,  two  silver  fibula?,  coins 
of  the  loNver  empire,  and  bricks  made  by  the  sixth  legion,  are 
mentioned  among  the  discoveries  here  \  but  no  inscriptions 
any  note  havf  been  found.  In  the  castellurn,  nearest  this  st 
tion  on  the  east^  were  found,  in  1766,  an  urn  full  of  gold  as 
silver  coins ;  "  almost  a  complete  series  of  those  of  tjie  highi 
empire  ;  among  them  several  Othos;  most  of  tliem  in  fine  pre- 
servation,"* 


STAMFORDHAM 


Ikirc^H 


is  a  well-built  town,  having  a  market  and  three  annual 

the  cross  was  built  by  Sir  John  Swinburne,  Bart,  in  17S6,  to 

whose  ancestors  this  manor  was  granted  by  Sir  William  de  Hil« 
ton,  in  lfi99.  Here  is  a  free-school,  founded  and  well*endow 
by  Sir  Thomas  Widdrington,  K nighty  in  1663,  In  the  chur 
is  a  cross-legged  figure  of  one  of  the  Fenwicks,  an  antient  fi 
mily,  who  resided  at  Femwick:  Towkh,  in  this  parish,  from 
time  of  Henry  the  Third,  to  the  Revolution,  when  their  estal 
was  forfeited  for  treason,  and  sold  to  the  BlaeketL<.  in  pulli^ 
down  the  ruins  of  thi^  house,  in  1775,  "  several  hundred  fair 
gold  nobles,  of  Edward  the  Third,  were  found  in  a  stone  chest, 
covered  with  sand  twelve  inches  deep*  and  placed  over  the  arcfa 
of  the  cellar  door,  wrhich  stood  immediately  under  the  Bags  of 
the  castle  gate.  They  were  probably  concealed  on  an  inroad 
0f  David,  King  of  Scotland,  in  1360,  as  far  as  Hexham,  whence. 


•  WaUis,  ii,  lfi«. 


KOHTtIUM0ERLANl>*  17t 

he  caffied  off  the  two  sons  of  Sir  John  Fenwick,  the  «j#ner  of 
UiB  castle,  who  did  not  long  survive  the  loss,  and  pfobablj'  then 
concealt'd  tliis  new  species  of  coinage."-)- 

\Ve8t-Matfek,  the  seat  of  Sir  William  Blackett,  Bart,  ww 
held  of  Henfy  the  Third,  by  Philip  de  Uleote,  in  Grand  Ser- 
jeawcy.  After  this  it  belonged  to  the  Feltons ;  then  to  Sir 
£dwajrd  de  Hastings  ;  in  Queen  Elizabeth's  reign  to  Sir  Ralph 
LiWBon,  and  afterwards  passed,  with  Halton  Tower  and  other 
property,  to  the  BlackettSi.  In  an  odjoining  6 eld  is  a  circular 
mount,  with  a  cavity  on  its  top ;  and  by  it  a  stone  nine  feet 
high  and  three  feet  by  one  and  a  haJf  thick,  called  the  Sto6* 
Stone,  In  removing  the  mount,  two  kistvaens  were  found|  coii- 
taioing  ashes  of  the  deud^  dusty  and  white. 

CETEESEBuaKE  GRANGE,  before  the  dissolution,  belonged  la 
Hexham  priory  ;  and  to  Gawin  Swinburne,  Esq.  in  1567.  In 
1638  it  was  the  seat  of  Thomas  Widdringlon,  Eeq*  whose  son» 
Sir  Thomas,  became  recorder  of  York:  lord-kueper  in  1647t 
speaker  to  parliament  in  1656 1  and  lord  chief  baron  in  J 658. 
From  this  family  it  descended,  by  the  female  line,  to  Ralph  Rid* 
deJt,  Esq.  the  father  of  its  present  possessor-  Near  it,  in  1B02, 
fame  curious  brass  spear  heads  were  found  in  making  a  ditch. 

Little  Bavingtok  is  the  seat  of  Sir  Cutbbert  Shaft oc, 
Knight,  to  whose  ancestors  it  belonged  in  1304*  It  has  a  large 
slieet  of  water  in  front,  and  is  surrounded  with  young  planea* 
tioas.  The  ground  about  this  place  and  Throckerington  is  cele* 
brafed  for  the  excellency  of  its  sheep  walks. 

KtRK  Ha  RLE  was  a  manor  o^"  tlie  Rolbeck  barony.  It  ti  the 
mine  of  ft  parish,  and  of  the  seat  of  Sir  William  Lorraitie,  Bart* 
It  belonged  to  Sir  Robert  Herle  in  the  reign  of  Edward  the 
Rrrt,  and  to  the  ancestors  of  its  present  po^essor  about  the 
ytar  14^t  The  seat  is  in  a  low  situation,  sheltered  with  tall 
l<?fCft  rrecs.  Near  it  is  a  stone  pillar,  erected  on  the  spot 
wKere  Robert  Lorraine,  Esq,  was  slain  by  a  band  of  Moss* 
troopers,  in  Queen  Elizabeth's  reign.     This  ikmily  came  mt# 

Vti.  XIL  N 

•  Googb'i  Cacnb.  iO,  \k  y^t, 


ITS  )iORTHUMBERI/AND. 

■England  with  the  Conqueror,  by  whom  they  were  infeoffecf 
with  lands  in  the  county  oi'  Durham :  they  obtained  this  estate 
by  marriage  of  a  co-hciress  of  William  del  Strother,  of  Kirk- 
harle  Tower,  in  the  reign  of  Henry  the  Fifth. 
.  Little  Harlb  was  a  manor  of  the  barony  of  Prudhoe.  It 
belonged  to  John  de  Fenwick  in  1551  ;  and  to  Wilham  Ainsiey 
in  1567,  the  heiress  of  which  family,  in  1793,  married  the 
Honourable  Charles  Lord  Murray,  youngest  son  of  the  Duke 
of  Athol ;  his  lordship  took  the  name  of  Ainsley,  and  was  Dean 
of  Hocking.  Since  his  death,  Little  Hark  Toftcer  has  beea 
the  residence  of  his  relict. 

.  Cafheaton  is  said  to  have  been  in  the  hands  of  the  Swin- 
burnes  since  1264.  Leland  calls  it  "  Huttun,  a  fair  castle,  in 
the  midste  of  Northumberland,  as  in  the  bredthe  of  it.  It  is 
three  or  four  miles  from  Fenwicke  Pile,  and  this  is  the  oldest 
house  of  the  Swynburnes.'*  Sir  Thomas,  of  tliis  house,  in 
1405,  in  company  with  Lord  Berkley  and  Henry  May,  Esq. 
took  fourteen  French  ships,  carrying  provisions  to  Milford 
Haven.  This  family,  and  the  Swinbumes  of  Edhngham  castle, 
inttrmarried  in  the  time  of  Charles  the  First,  since  which  time 
their  chief  residence  has  been  here.  The  mansion  house  was 
built  about  the  year  1668,  by  Sir  John  Swinburne,  who  was 
created  a  baronet  in  1660;  and  died  in  1706.  The  present 
possessor,  Sir  John,  nho  is  the  sixth  baronet  of  the  family, 
has  made  great  improvements  here,  by  building  his  cottages  afler 
regular  plans,  and  sheltering  his  estate  witli  large  plantations. 
.  In  the  beginning  of  tlie  last  century,  a  great  number  of  Ro- 
man coins,  and  vessels  of  silver,  were  found  near  tliis  seat,  by 
some  workmen  employed  in  making  a  hedge.  The  coins  were 
all  privately  sold ;  as  were  also  most  cf  the  vessels,  after  break- 
hig  the  bottoms  out  of  some,  and  the  ornaments  and  handles  off 
others.  They  presented  to  Sir  John  Swinburne,  the  grandfather 
of  the  present  baronet,  one  cup  entire,  weighing  twenty-six 
ounces ;  the  bottoms  ''of  three  others ;  three  handles,  adorned 
with  beautiful  figures  in  relief;  part  of  another  carved  handle  ; 

a  figure 


«  figure  of  Hercules  and  Antaeus  wreMlIng  ;  and  a  figure  of 
>^^eptuDe<  Thejie  havt  all  been  described  in  a  kt6  voiuine  of 
^e  Arcti^oobgia. 

BoLAM  was  the  barony  of  Gilbert  de  Bolam,  inid  granted  to 
litm  by  King  John.     From  13U%  to   [G38»  it,  in  ii  great  mea- 
sure,  belonged  to  the    Raynies   fainily*     The  heiress   of  the 
Morsle^i  of  Bolani,  in  Jij09|  married  the  Hev*  J.  \L  Beresford, 
«onof  Uie  present  ArehbUhop  of  luani*  who  reside*  at  Btdam 
HalL    The  church  is  very  andcot :  in  it  is  the  figure  of  a  knight 
templar,  supposed  to   be  the  effigies  of  Sir  Walter  de  Bolam  ; 
-also  a  comb  of  the  Middletons  o^  BeJsay  Castle*     The  village  is 
^aid  to  have  formerly  consisted  of  tivo  hundred  slated  liouses* 
Thi^  tamp  west  of  it»    iH  oval^  near  whtcli»  on  both   jsidL'S   of 
^e  highway,  are  inequalities  in  the  eartJi,  which  appear  like 
linear  intrenchments.     Farther  west  is  Gallmi  UilU  used  by  the 
Karons  as  a  place  of  execution,  bi.'fore  the  power  of  bunging 
iras  taken  from  them ;  and  iitill  farther  we&t,  by  WatJing  Street » 
«n  Bolam  Moor,  is  a  lumulus  of  earthy  between  two  large  up- 
right stones,  in  wliich  Mr.  W'arburton   found  a  stone  cofHnf 
^^aibout   three   feet   long,  two    broad,   and    two    deep,  smoked 
^thin,  and  containing  notliing  but  several  lumps  of  glutinous 
:2natter. 

Haiikuam,  seen  before  a  setting  auu,  appears  like  one  of 
^e  fine  towered  hills  in  the  pictures  of  Nicholas  le  Foussin, 
"^  It  stands  on  an  eminence,  and  has  been  u  place  of  great 
strength  and  security  ;  a  range  of  perpendicular  rock^  on  one 
aide,  and  a  morass  on  the  other ;  the  entrance  by  a  narrow  de* 
clivity  to  the  north,  which,  in  the  memory  of  some  persons 
3J0W  living,  had  an  iron  gate.  The  manor  house  in  on  the  soutli- 
irest  corner  of  the  precipice,  built  on  to  un  old  towen  lu 
Charles  the  Second's  time  it  was  the  seat  of  Colonel  Philip 
Babbingtoui  Governer  of  Berwick  upon  Tweed  s  his  hrst  wife, 
^ying  under  excommunication,  wa^  interred  in  a  vault  cut  out 
^f  the  soUd  rock,  below  the  tower,"  ^ 

N  2  Belsay 

»  Wtllis,  ii,  jji). 


189  ffORTHrMREHLANV. 

BELSAt  CASTLBy  the  Seat  of  Sir  Charles  Miles  L&mber 
Monck,  stands  on  a  rising  ground,  finely  interspersed  wti 
fiingle  trees  and  thick  groves  of  wood.  It  has  a  grey,  neutr 
appearance,  and  consists  of  a  venerable  tower,  to  which  extcc 
fiite  additions  ^ere  made  by  Charles  Middleton,  Esq,  who  died 
in  WIS.  **  In  a  6eld  to  the  sautli  b  a  domestic  ciiapel  ;*'  and 
above  the  cofetle  an  ancient  stone  cross.  Sir  Charle?,  who  paid 
great  attention  to  Grecian  arclutecturc,  in  his  travels  through 
Asia  Minor,  has  commenced  a  new  mansion  on  a  large  scale, 
and  on  a  style  of  the  greatest  elegance.  The  Middletons  for- 
feited this  place  in  1317;  but  one  of  them  marrying  a  aole 
heiress  of  the  Strivelings,  who  were  tlien  possessed  of  BeUay, 
they  were  again  infeofed  in  (his  part  of  their  estate^  by  Henry 
ihe  Fifth.  Sir  William  was  created  a  baronet  in  1662.  Hw 
son.  Sir  John,  married  the  sole  heiress  of  John  Lambert,  Esq. 
of  Calton,  in  Craven,  whose  ancestor,  William  Lambert,  mar* 
tied  Gundre<l,  grand-daughter  of  Willkim  the  Conqueror:  ge- 
neral Lambert,  who  commanded  the  forces  of  the  Common* 
wealth,  was  of  this  family^  and  Im  official  seal  is  at  Belsay 
Castle.  Sir  WilHam  Middleton  married  .Jane,  only  surviving 
daughter  and  heiress  of  Lawrence  Monck,  Esq.  of  Caenby,  in 
LiiiColntihire,  at  whose  demise,  his  grandson,  the  present  ba* 
fonet,  changed  his  name  from  Middleton  to  Monck. 

HAHTauHK,  is  a  pleasant  village,  having  a  spacious  Gothic 
church,  and  near  it  a  Gotfiic  tower,  partly  used  as  a  school- 
room, and  overhung  with  ivy»  In  the  vic;trage  gnnmdis,  by  the 
margin  of  the  Hart*  are  delightful  walks  and  arbours,  formed 
by  the  late  Dr.  Sharpe,  who  was  vicar  of  this  church,  and  arch- 
deacon of  Northumberland. 

Wallikoton,  a  manor  of  the  Bolbeck  baronVf  belonged  lo 
John  Grey,  m  1 326,  from  whose  family  it  parsed,  by  an  heiress,  to 
William  del  Strother ;  and  from  him,  in  like  manner,  to  Sir  Joha 
Fenwick,  of  Fenwick  Tow  er,  in  Henry  the  Fourth's  time :  hia 
descendant.  Sir  John  Fenwick,  who  built  the  great  eating  hall 
in  Christ's  Hospital,  and  was  executed  for  high  treason,  sold  it 


KOnTHUMBERLAKD.  181 

%o  Sir  WiUiam  Blackett»  of  Newcastle  upon  Tyne,  whose  grand- 
L^kughter  marrying  Sir  Walter  Calverley,  of  Caiverley,  in  York- 
^«hire,  that  baronet  took  the  name  of  Bluckett,  and,  at  his  do- 
rajse,  this  estate  fell  to  his  nephew.  Sir  John  Trevelyan,  of 
!Nettlecomb,  in  Somersetshire,  whose  son  John  succeeded  him 
in  his  title  and  estate,  in  1768,  and  is  yci  alive.  Letand  calls 
**  Walliugton  Castle  the  chefcst  house  of  the  Fen  wicks.*'  Tlie 
present  edifice  is  a  spacious  and  handsome  structure,  of  white 
Creestone,  finely  hewn.  Behind  it  is  a  large  gateway ;  and  on 
liie  east,  north,  and  west,  thick  groves  of  luxuriant  forest 
ij^es*  At  the  bottom  of  the  lawn  runs  the  Wansbeck  ;  crossed 
Ijy  an  elegant  stone  bridge,  with  three  arches,  «nd  open  battle- 
Tnents.  A  mile  east,  over  the  same  river^  is  a  stone  bridge,  at 
Che  south  end  of  which,  on  each  side  of  the  road,  are  grass- 
j^own  ruins,  of  a  considerable  village.  Also,  withuk  the  pre* 
c*incts  of  tftis  estate,  is 

Camboe,  that  is.  Camp  HiU,  which,  in  Henry  the  Tliird's 

€uni!,  was  the  seat  of  Iloberi  de  Caniho€f  sheriff  of  this  county 

in  iliree  successive  years.     Here  was  formerly  a  chapel,  in  the 

«^iQ8  of  which  were  lately  found  grave-stone^,  with  emblematic 

devices  cut  upon  them,  now  in  the  walls  of  a  bam*     This  also 

was  the  birth  place  of  Mr.  Bhowk,  usually  ciUlcd  Capability, 

imd  celebrated  for  his  taste  in   landscape  gardening,  and  do- 

ic  architecture. 

^OTHLEY  Castle,  which,  from  many  points  of  view,  has 

\  appearanoe  of  the  seat  of  some  ancient  baron,  was  built  for 

'  ttibct,  by  the  late  Sir  W,  C.  Bluckett,     It  is  on  a  rugged  emi- 

HBDce,  in  a  park  of  its  own  name,  and  which,  thirty-iive  years 

aince,  was  full  of  deer;*    but  since  tltat  time  has  been  dis- 

parked,  and  put  under  cultivation.    Near  it  were  two  fine  sheets 

of  water,  hemmed  with  shrubberies. 

LoNGWiTTON  Hall,  is  an  ancient  building,  fronting  the 
jouth,  and  having  a  thick  grove  of  wood  on  the  north,  ea$t,  and 
•rest*     It  formerly  belonged  to  a  branch  of  the  Swinburne  fu- 

N  3  miiy, 

•  WalUi,  ii.  5f;>. 


182  WORTHUMBERLAXD. 

mily :  ^"Jw  sold  to  the  Blacketts :  and  desccndod  to  Sir  John 
Trevelyan,  Bart.  At  present  it  is  occupied  by  James  Fen  wick, 
Esq.  BcloK*  the  garden,  on  the  margin  of  the  Wansbeck,  in 
an  oak  wood,  are  three  medicinal  fountains,  called  Thurston 
Wells. 

Netherwittos,  formerly  called  IViffnTt-ft^'the-Walmf  ha« 
a  tmall  chapel,  under  Hartbum.  A  cotton  manufactory  was 
established  here  about  twenty  years  since ;  but,  as  it  never 
flourished,  was  soon  discontinued.  Here  was  tho  seat  of  Roger 
Thornton,  Esq.  the  munificent  patron  of  Newcastle.  He  was 
probably  bom  at  the  neighbouring  hamlet  of  Thornton.*  Tra- 
dition represents  him  as  rising  out  of  poverty  to  great  opulence, 
which  he  acquired  in  merchandize,  and  mines  of  lead  in  Wear- 
dale.f  He  diet!  in  1429.  The  tozccr -he  built  here  has  long 
fjnce  fallen  into  nn'ns.  The  present  mansion,  which  is  a  hand- 
fomo  structure  of  white  freestone,  is  the  residence  of  W  alter 
Trevolyan,  Esq.  and,  with  the  estate,  came  to  him  by  morria^ 
with  Jane,  eldest  daughter  of  James  Thornton,  Esq. 


MORPETH, 

18  supposed  to  derive  its  name  from  some  path  to  it,  over 
a  Moor.  The  Testa  do  Nevill  destTibcs  it  as  the  barony 
of  Rogor  de  >rerlay,  held  of  the  king  by  four  knights'  service ; 
and  that  the  predecessors  of  that  baron,  had  held  it  from  the 
time  of  the  Conquest,  without  any  part  of  it  being  alienated. 
This  Roger  was  the  third  of  that  name.  The  first  of  them,  in 
1199,  obtained,  from  the  crown,  licence  for  a  market  for  his 

borough, 

•**  Thftrnionj  says  Warbiirton,  (in  a  letrcr  to  R.  Gafe,  Esq.  5tli  Jan. 
1717-8)  tbougliat  prcseutan  mcou&KJciablpvillace,  .nhrwn  tiie  vestigia  is 
it  of  a  remarkable  town  in  former  tiinc> :  a  lii^h  ridged  luilitaiy  way  ruits 
tbroU|;;b  tbc  inidiJlc  of  it,  and  a  squaie  platforin  joins  to  it,  both  ^vIucb  arc 
evidcnily  Roman. 

t  Sec  Uouroc'8  Neve.  p.  2''.>. 


NORTHUMBSRLAHD.  IBS 

boroo^^  and  an  annual  fair  on  Magdalen  Day ;  his  successor 
ornamented  the  borough,  and  founded  an  hospital  at  Catch'* 
hum;  and  Ro^r  the  Third  granted' to  his  burgesses  many  im- 
munities. He  died  in  1265,  leaving  two  co-heircsses ;.  Mary, 
the  eldest,  married  to  \ViUxam  Lord  Greystock ;  and  Jonanna; 
married  to  Robert  de  Somerville.  The  whole  of  this  barony 
diescended  to  Lord  Greystock,  and  from  him  to  his  son  John, 
who  divided  his  grandfather  Mcrlay'-s  possessions  between  him- 
self and  his  uncle,  Robert  de  Somerville ;  but  having  no  issue, 
and  his  brother  William  bemg  dead,  he  settled  his  moiety  of 
this,  and  his  other  estates,  on  his  relation,  Ralph  Fitz-William» 
who  assumed  the  name  and  title  of  Ralph  Lord  Greystock :  he. 
built  a  cliantry  in  Tynemouth  churcli,  and,  after  possessing  the 
estate  nine  ye|uv,  died  in  1316.  His  successors  were:  Ralph, 
who  died  in  1317.  Ralph,  who  was  poisoned  at  Gateshead^  in 
ISSi,  by  the  revengeful  adherents  of  Sir  Gilbert  Middlcton, 
whom  his  lordship  apprehended  for  treason,  in  the  castle  of 
Mitford.  William,  who  was  summoned  to  parliament  in  1352, 
and,  after  building  the  castles  of  Greystock  and  Morpeth,  died 
in  1358.  Ralph,  was  in  6ve  parliaments;  he  had  the  direction  of 
the  expedition  against  the  Scots,  in  1380,  when  he  was  taken 
prisoner,  at  Horseridge,  in  Glendalc*,  by  the  Earl  of  Dunbar: 
his  raasom  cost  30(X)  marks,  towards  which  tlie  burgesses  of 
Morpeth  paid  71.  13s.  lOd.;  he  was  a  benefactor  to  the  priories 
of  Brinkbum  and  Newminster,  and  died  in  14-17.  John,  didd  in 
14*35.  Ralph,  was  in  four  parliaments ;  he  di<.*tl  in  1486,  when 
his  estates  devolved  upon  his  grand-daughter,  Elizabeth,  Ba* 
roness  (ireystock  and  Wemme;  who  married  Thomas  Lord 
Greystock,  ofGilsland,  in  whose  family  these  possessions  con* 
tinued,  till  issue  male  failing,  they  devolved,  in  1566,  upon  his 
two  grand-daughters  and  co-heiresses,  Anne,  married  to  Philip, 
Earl  of  Anindel ;  and  Elizabeth,  to  William  Howard,  third  son 
of  Thomas,  Duke  of  Norfolk,  and  from  whom  they  have  lin- 
eaUy  descended  to  the  present  Earl  of  Carlisle. 

**  I  have  no  particulars,"   says  Camden,"  from  ancient  his- 

N  4  tory, 


184 


ifOltTtfOMSl&l.Aff9v 


tory,  rektiv«  to  this  place,  except  Ihat^  in  121 5«  it  was  burnt 
down  by  its  own  inhabitatiu,  out  of  Iiatrcd  to  King  John.*' 
L eland  callt  it  a  **  long  town,  metely  well  buylded,  with  low 
howsys,  t!)e  stretes  pavyd.  If  is  a  far  fayrar  towne  then  Alen- 
wike.  Morpeth  Castle  standeth  by  Morpeth  town*  It  la  set  of% 
a  high  hrlj,  and  about  the  hill  is  moche  w^ood,"  Nothing  now 
reniaiufi  of  the  cobtle,  but  part  of  the  gateway-tow er^  and  frag- 
ments of  the  outward  wall.  The  tower  haa  formerly  had  an- 
gular turrets  at  the  nortli-east  and  south-east  comers,  commu- 
nicating by  an  open  gallery,  supported  on  corbules.  Near  the 
castle,  on  the  north  aide,  ia  a  round  mound  of  earthy  on  n  natu- 
i»l  mount,  whose  hiught  is  greatly  assisted  by  art,  probably  a 
lualvoisin  in  some  blockade.  1  he  town  was  also  burnt  down,  in 
)669,  when  the  loaa  was  estimated  at  3,5001.  At  present  it  ia 
neat^  and  pleasantly  seated  among  woody,  undulating  htll&  It 
is  a  prescriptive  horottgh,  governed  by  two  bailiffs  and  seven  bur- 
gesses. It  first  sent  members  to  parliament  in  1558,  The 
market  is  on  Wednesdays,  and  affords  the  principal  supply  d^ 
fat  cattle  and  f^heep  for  the  consumption  of  Newcastle,  Shields, 
and  Sunderland.  Here  is  the  county  gaol  for  Northumberland. 
The  town -house,  from  a  design  by  Vanbrugh,  was  built  at 
the  expence  of  the  Earl  of  Carlisle,  in  1714.  On  the  market- 
house  is  inscribed :  **  The  Hon*  Philip  Howard,  and  Sir  Henry 
Beloeyae,  Knt.  tlie  only  benefactors  of  this  cross.  Anno  Dom. 
1659."  The  paruh  church  is  on  Kirk  Hil(,  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
out  of  the  town  ;  but  there  is  a  good  ring  of  bells,  in  a  square 
tower,  near  the  market-place,  A I  the  bridge  end  is  a  cliapel  { 
and,  adjoining  it,  In  an  old  chantry,  a  good  free-school,  founiied 
by  K  ing  Edward  the  Sixth.  Tliere  was  also  formerly  here  aa 
hospital  for  the  sick.  The  population^  in  1801,  amounted  U» 
2,951  persons.  Dr.  WLlham  Turner,  the  first  Engliah  botaniat 
and  orttithologiiit ;  and  Dr»  VVilliatn  Gibson,  author  of  *'  A  Book 
of  Herbs,**  and  **  The  Treason  of  tl\e  Prelates  since  the  Con- 
quest,'* were  born  in  this  town ;  and  Mr.  Horsley,  the  learned 
autlior  of  the  ^  Britannia  Romana,"  was  several  years  nuAia- 


KORTHUMBERLAKDI  18S 

9xT  of  a  diftscDtlng  congregauon  here.    He  died  in  1732,  aged 

A  qwartar  of  a  mile  owl  of  the  towiie^  on  the  hichere  syd^ 
^  Wanspeke,   was  New   Mikster   Abbay  of  wliite  inonksy 
pleaiaunt  with  water,  and  very  fayre  wood  about  IL'*  *     The 
<^islersjans  catne  here^  under  the  patronage  oF  Ranulphus  de 
^leriay,  in  il3B,  who»  in  the  next  year,  founded  this  house- 
Its  abbot  was   several  timet  sumrooned  to  tlie  parliaments  of 
Edward  the  First *f     The  catalogue  of  itfi  benefactors  is  long ; 
.fUid  its  revenues,    at    the   di^solutiont    by    Speed's    account, 
amounted  to  i40L  10s.  4d.     Only  a  fragment  of  a  door-way  re« 
James  the  First  granted  its  scite  to  the  Brandlings  i  at 
f'present  it  belongs  to  William  Ord,  Esq.  of   Whitfield  Hall, 
M.  P,  for  Morpeth- 
MiTfoRD,  at  the   time   of   the  Conquest,  was  a  villa  and 
irdthip  of  Sir  John  Mitford,  whose  only  daughter,  Sibel,  was 
^married   to   Richard    Bertram,  a  Nortnan-     It  was    created  a 
barony  by  Henry  the  First ;  and  forfeited  by  Roger  Bertram, 
one  of  the  confederi^e  barons,  in  the  reign  of  Henry  the  Third. 
Part  of  it  was  afler^'ards  given  to  Eleanor  Stantour,  wife  of 
Robert  de  StoteviUe;  but  Edward  the  Second  granted  the  en« 
tire  barony  to  Adomar  de  Valence,  Earl  of  Pembroke :  from 
whom  the  greater  part  of  it  descended,  by  marriage,  to  David 
de  Strabolg}',  Earl  of  Atho) :  but  issue  male  failing  in  his  son 
Davtd,  it  passed,  by  female  heirs,  to  Henry  Percy,  and  in  tlic 
same  manner  from  liim,  in  Henry  the  Sixth's  time,  to  Thomas 
Brough,  Esq.     Queen  Mary,  and  afterwards  Charles  the  Se- 
oondf  granted    it  to   the   Mitfords  of  MoUsden^    a  collateral 
br.mch  of  its  ancient  owners,  who  still  enjoy  it. 

Thtcmile^  in  1215,  was  burnt  down  by  King  Jotui  and  his 
Hiitan,  a  band  of  Flemish  troops  ^ben  they  so  miserably 
viMted  this  cmmtry.^  In  the  next  year  it  was  beseiged  by 
Akxander,  King  of  Scoti;.     Sir  Gilbert  de  Middleton,  and  hia 

ossociatest 
•Ld*  It.  V.7.  foL^S,  fSTtv.  Dn?.  volJi»  spv,  p,  14. 


1 BS  KORT  HCMBEia  AH0P 

asBOciates,    had  possewioti  of  it  in   1  SI  &     **  h  wmb  beten 
tlowne/'  fsays  Lelarid,    **by  the  kynge;    for  one  Sir  Gilbetl 
MiddietoQ  robbyM  a  carditiall  comtnge  out  of  Scotland, 
Bed  to  his  ca&tte  of  MiUbrd.**     It  etandfi  on  a  high  n;iturtil 
netice^  outli:  '  '    -rthe  Wan?ibeck.     On  the 

and  east,  grt  i  employed  in  forming  »  ditch  ( 

of  the  rock  tinder  its  wails,  whifih  are  tfUll^  in  niany^  plaices,  l 
feet  high.  The  keep  ia  circular,  of  rough  titrong  ma^oiirj ; 
contaiitiug  small  gloomy  dungeons,  with  thicU  walls,  and  na 
loop-holes.  The  other  buildings,  within  the  area  of  the  n-allll 
arc  quite  deo)o)iaiied«  Near  it  is  the  icei  of  Bbktram  Mil 
FORD,  Etq*i  and  the  parish  chitrcltf  appropriated  to  Lane 
Priory,  and  in  wbidi  is  t\  moaunient,  with  the  rude  eifigjr 
one  of  the  Bertrams,  and  an  tnncription,  dated  16S2. 
wn9  et  mfirkrt  here  in  I  *1'jQ,  St,  Leonard* s  II 
above  tlie  village  of  MiUbrd,  wm  founded  In 
tram,  in  Henry  the  First's  reign ;  at  present  it  is  a  ^entlennan's 
Beat^  and  called  The  Spitai** 

The  barony  of  Both  a  L  was  held  of  the  king,  by  thr 
Icnigbis'  service,  by  Robert  Bettrani,  and  afterwards  by  his  i 
Richard,  in  the  time  of  Henry  the  ThinL  They  were 
younger  branch  of  the  Bertrams,  of  MitJibrd.  In  Edwa 
the  Third's  reign,  their  estates  passed,  by  an  licini-ss,  to  Sir  Ro 
bert  Ogle,  of  Ogle,  knightf  rhose  posterity  enjoyed  this  ba- 
rony tlirough  a  long  succession.  In  tlie  contest  between  tli( 
houses  of  Y  ark  and  Lancusicr,  Robert  Ugle,  being  in  tiie  tttq 
cesfiful  party,  nus  created  Lord  Ogle.  Cuthbert  tlm  se?i 
and  last  of  them  who  bore  that  title,  had  two  daughters,  J<l 
hanna  and  Cutharine,  the  latter  of  whom  married  Charlc; 
Cavendish,  of  Welbeck,  in  Nottinghamshire,  and  was 
Baroncfss  Ogle.  From  her  son  William,  who  w*aa  creat<:d  Da 
of  Newcastle,  in  1664,  it  passed,  by  only  daughter^ 
to  John  Holhs,  also  Duke  of  Newcastle ;  and  then  to 
£arl  of  Oxford  and  Mortimer;  and,  lastly,  to  the  Dnke  of 
Portland,  in  irhose  family  it  still  continues* 


The  easHr  wm  built  by  Sir  Robeit  Bcrtrtm*  in  the  time  of 

«Iilwflnl  the  Tbirtl,     The  following  estmrtt  wii5  puhJished   m 

^lie  Anti'^iTiariafi  ttepertor},  from  a  iiirrey>  culled  **  Tli<r  Book 

of  the  Bothnol  Barrinryc/*  tnkcn  in  June,   1578,     •*  To  thi» 

^  «:rifiiKir  af  Bnthoole    beiongeih  nne  cu^Ufll,    in  circumference 

'e,  wherto  betongeth  ane  caitell.  great  ehaulmer, 

f  I>.  chttiilmcfs  one  galare,  butterie,  pHntrie,  Ijirde- 

[s%ort    Icitchitt^^   tiaclcboase,    brewhtiuse^    a  ituble,  an   court, 

^:!"    '  '  thare  is  a  prisoci,  a  porter  loge, 

^tii  ::,  tin  cammoo  itable,  and  a  towrre 

^sailed  Bfaoke  Towrt- ;  a  gnrdine*  ane  norice,  chapel^  and  an 

^towre  caHc'd  Ogfe!<  Towre,  and  pastrie,  with  many  other  priftie 

^^c^aldingi  here  not  specified,    faire  garditigy,    and   orchett9, 

irin  grower  all  kind  of  hcarbes  and  ftoirres,  and  fine  applies, 

iltimbes  of  alt  kynde,  peere,  damsellt!i»  naltes,  wardens,  cher* 

"i<s,  to  iSie  black  and  reede,  wallnutes,  and  also  licores  veric 

^ne,  wortfi  by  tfie  yeare  XX*-.**     Of  ali  these,  only  the  gate* 

refnaznst  and   the  outer  wafla»   sadly  sbattered,  and  io> 

^clofting"  about  two  roods  of  land,  scattered  with  fragments  oi^ 

'fcuilJings.     The  gateway  has  been  liiiely  mtich  deformed,  by  a 

«hed  built  against  its  arch  :    it  is  **  fliuiked  on  the  north  by  two 

"J>olygnnal  towrm^  liiVy-three  feet  high  -.  and,  on  the  «outh-weat 

single,  by  a  s<jftlro  turret,  whose  height  nieaaurcs  ai^ty  feet*'* 

^Thc  §citc  of  these  ruins  occupy  a  fine  natural  emiDefitc  in  the 

«itd$t  of  a  deep  valley,  and  washed  on  the  south  by  the  Wans* 

**  The  wood  scene  in   the  back  ground  slopes  to  tlte 

^s  edge,  here  and  there  skirted  by  ptcturescjue  rocks/*    In 

the  church i  which  stands  a  little  distance  east  of  the  t*ast)e,  is 

afnted  in  black  letter,  a  gene^dogical  table  of  the  Ogles,  from 

Conquest ;  and  a  curious  tomb,  belonging  to  that  lamily, 

^e  of  alabaster,  and  inclosed  with  iron  mik*     It  consists  of 

(cumbent  figures  of  one  of  the  barons  and  his  lady,  with  seve- 

al  emblematical  figures  about  them :    and  in  one  part  of  it  a 

bield,  Hingulurly  charged  with  armorial  devices.    On  the  river's 

side,  about  three  c|uarters  of  a  mile  above  the  castle,  stood 

Our 


nil  by  one  of  the  Ogles,  a^  appeared  I 
»  iftpi  nigiifitl  II     It  was  eight  yards  long,  and  fa 
A  tkm  jtm9  ciAce  It  waA  oversown  with  trees,  whi^ 
mt  iinr  roots  mto  its  walla ;  at  present  It  u  quite  d&* 

fxEft  Tower,  ui  Speed'^;  map,  jji  culled  Cocklc^^ 
apd  gygtiiundcd  witli  a  park.     It  wm  in  the  barony  of 
4pd  wai»  a  inaiaiion-tkoiui^  of  the  Bertrams  in  Edward 
m*    It  lias  anckntly  been  mucli  larger  towards 
appears  by  large  remains  of  Strang  foundations 
of  arche^i  between  tlic  old  and  new  parts* 
MJk  ^  possession  of  hiii  graco  tlm  Duke  of  Portland,  a 
ltt%|«lt  of  it  being  thrown  down  by  lightning.     There 
^  fiir^r  oiKuus  fire-placcs  in  it*     In  the  front  are  the  Of 
liii  llie  supporters,  two  antelopen,  collared  and  chained.     Il"" 
^  MttcMcolations  on  the  outside,  nnd  is  uUogetlier  aikT  the 
^itm  ^  iho  old  border  mansions* 

Mll^HisoTOV  Castle  was  the  seat  of  "  Gerard  de  W4 
t  in  1272,**  who  held  it  witJi  **  Dririg  and  Bomdon,.*] 
fH  It^  barony  of  W»aUon,  by  the  service  of  otie  knight's  fee* 
Yttk  liaiiiy  stands  conspicuous  in  the  list  of  slierifFs  of  th 
^ffgltSk  Atul  as  a  h*ne  of  heroes.  Sir  William  was  advanced  i 
ll#  4iCtMly  oi*  a  baron  of  the  redm  by  Charte  the  Firv^t,  and 
ImH  hyi  la^  at  VVigan,  in  Lancashire,  in  the  cause  of  Charlf 
d^  ^buSiHid.  "  llo  wa^t'*  **  mys  Clarendon,  **  oiie  of  the' 
Mlrittr«i  11^"  ^^  '^  ^S*-*^  being  near  a  head  higher  than  most^^ 
nJI  MHU**  His  grandson,  Wiiham,  Lord  Widdrlugton,  foi^^| 
lliiid  dli  Mtite  In  the  rebellion  in  1 7 la;  ailer  which  it  wa£  ' 
^1^.1  ^1  100»0()(>1.  and  soUl  by  ttie  crown  to  iSir  George  lleve^j 
^f^m  ^Im^ij^  i^  descended,  by  heitcssesj  to  Lord  Bulkeley,  il 
gf^lMIt  |M>SMS8or<  The  castle,  though  Irregular  and  the  work 
^  ^mrtinw  M£v*t  ^^  ^  noble  structure,  e^ecially  the  most  im^ 
mm9ik  purt  of  it,  which  was  a  Gut  hie  icnur^  finished  with  machi*| 
and  fiHir  round  turrets,  built  on  double  tiers  of  coivj 

bnle^ 
*  Tcita  dc  Ncvil,  [k  iat. 


nomttttrifButAvft;  fM 

MM  DbereitagoodTie«roritl7  8.fliidN.  Budkyin  ITSQii 
It  wfli  bonn  dmm  about  tbbtf  jrean  ibiot  i  and  the  only  w^ 
wtUag  pwt  nf  it  at  preient  is  sn  octuigolar,  embAttled  tower^ 
t»  wUdi  •  a^uare  modern  ediBce  hm  been  added.  It  coa»« 
cxtemive  tea  prospect  to  the  east,  and  a  land  viei^ 
I  tbe  eeudi  aa  fiur  as  Tjnemouch  Cattle. 

CAtmR  FAWHf  a  member  of  the  Bothal  batoajr,  was  Ae 
seat  of  •  yaanger  branch  of  the  Ogle%  of  Botbal  CastlOp  flrooi 
k  bos  descended  to  its  prasent  possessor,  William  Qgle 
ifl^  ThetoweroftbemaMieaJMwaeirasbniltl^Jelni 
Oi^Ea^kkliSM.    The  chapel  efSt  Cmfebert  is  in  mins. 

LoiMnMULR  was  gifen  bj  OMpatricp  Bari  of  Dunbar^  as  m 
mmilsge  pertien  to  Sir  Balph  Merisj,  Baron  of  Metpelk 
He  tsnonts  of  this  manor,  in  the  tbne  of  Henry  the  T1iifd» 
weie  ceaspdtod  to  loeep  the  rends  and  ditches  4n  good  erdsTf 
nnder  pnin  of  fcttMting  dlse*  virg&i  JhreaSf'^  Ibr  every  efisnee» 
Half  ef  the  tfflage,  wkfa  a  deer-park,  and  an  ancient  leowr^ 
bekmg  to  Ralph  RkMeH,  Esq.  and  the  other  half  to  C.  W« 
B^jgfe^  Esq.  who  b  now  enjoyed  in  boading  a  huge  and  do* 
gant  mansbn  on  a  pait  of  his  estate  here,  called*  LinnoN. 

fkLTON  was  one  of  the  manors  of  the  barony  of  Mitfimj^ 
and  was  siicoe«sir^  possessed  by  the  Bartram,  Pembroke^ 
Athol,  Percy»  Scrope,  Lisle,  and  Widdrii^ton  fkhiilics ;  from 
wMch  last  it  passed,  by  marriage,  to  the  fkther  of  the  present 
possessor,  Ralph  Riddefi,  Esq.  whose  seat,  caUed  Fekon  HaUp 
and  bailt  by  the  Widdringtons,  stands  in  an  old  and  extensiTe 
perk,  on  the  west  side  of  the  village.  Here  the  barons  ef  Nor* 
thumberland  did  homage  to  Alexander,  King  of  Scots,  in  1215; 
a  defection  which  King  John  punbhed,  by  laying  this  and  other 
places  in  the  nei^ibourhood  in  ashes. 

On  the  north  side  of  the  Coquet,  a  few  miles  below  FekoOr 
is  Gruyaanoe,  of  note  only  for  a  nunnery^  founded  by  Richard 
Tyson,  mentioned  in  the  Lincohs  Taxation,  and  annexed  to 
ft%%  abbey  of  Ahiwick,  by  charter  of  Etlwaid  the  First. 

BRiKxavay 

*  Wan.i,  n.  3r»0.    Hutcli.  H.  .119. 


1 90  NORTBUMREKLAND. 

BRtNiCBUBN  Prior Y  was  tonndcd  for  blnclc  canoni,  ia  the 
lime  of  Henry  the  First,  by  Roger  Bertram,  Baron  of*  Mtlford, 
and  dcdieated  to  St,  Peter.  In  1534,  it  wsls  valued  by  Speedy 
at  771.  lu  possessions  were  granted  to  Jorin,  Earl  of  Warwick, 
ill  l.*5i9;  and  a^in,  ia  the  &«me  reign,  to  a  brancih  of  the  Fen* 
wicks,  of  Feiiw'ick  Tower,  whose  descendants  sold  thfm  a  few 
years  since-  Major  Hodgson,  tlieir  prestent  possessor,  has 
uiiide  great  improvements  about  the  place.  The  priory  stjinds 
on  the  north  cm  margin  of  the  Coquet,  surrounded  by  high 
banl^  and  hanging  woods.  Tiie  shell  of  the  church  is  ^til)  very 
entire,  and  exertions  were  used  not  many  years  since,  to  lit  it 
yp  for  divine  service,  for  which  purpose  a  brief  was  obtained. 
The  north  and  south  doors  are  charged  with  rich  Saxon  orna- 
nients ;  the  upper  windows  have  round  arches ;  the  rest,  with 
tl.  *  of  the  tower  and  nave,  are  pointed.  "  llierc  have 
hr  il^  here  so  lute  as  i7'i5.     At  the  east  end,  and  in  the 

north  and  soutli  crossesj  were  chapek;  in  one  iif  which  were 
dJviTJi  fragment*  of  coffins  and  human  bones.**  In  clearing  away 
the  rubbish,  a  circular  staircase,  communicating  with  tfie  body 
of  the  church,  has  been  lately  laid  open^  and  vaults  for  inter- 
ment, formed  like  the  kistvaen,  discovered.  **  On  the  whole, 
thougft  thiH  building,  except  about  the  doors  above  mentioned, 
is  remarkably  plain,  it  has  a  sober  and  solemn  majesty  not 
alwayi)  found  in  buildings  more  highly  decorated.  Fart  or  this 
perhaps  it  may  owe  to  its  romantic  situation."* 

VVarkwohtu  is  an  ancient  prescriptive  borough,  governed 
by  a  port-reeve,  now  culled  mayor,  chosen  by  th«  tree  bur- 


•  Gr09«i.  Wbi'ri.*  lite  o»<^ti'rn  brancli  of  Watliiig  Street  cri'Ssca  the  Co- 
«|«i't»  a  little  below  tlm  pUee,  tliiTc  ure  cvidrnt  rpmaini  of  a  liHilge ;  and 
on  rh«  Ijili,  m  t\it  north  tide  of  the  prioiy,  are  litirs  af  r>rttfiratiom,  and 
appeal ftiices  of  an  «itri^iH  town,  Joltfi  of  Hexlmm^  under  the  year  iiM, 
CAiU  diw  place  iinmnhuK^h^  ortho^mfihy  which  iiwimeA  m  to  b<flieve',  tliat 
tllM  f»  the  intr  sitiiatiou  t)(^  XlntNANBURcit*  nherc  ICiuj^  Atlicbtao,  m 
958|  forght  with  such  boasted  anccesi'i  ti^aiast  the  Iriidi,  Wdcb,  aod  Noi  - 
tUumbrian  Duaes*    Sase,  Am,  93^.     Mailros  Chron,  937, 


MOBTHUMBIRLANBU  191 

^[ettfcSy  and  sworn  into  office  by  a  coiM-leet.  It  hai  an  exten- 
sive common-right;  a  weekly  markd  on  Thursdays;  and  aa 
annual^fV  on  the  Thursday  before  the  twenty-third  of  Novan- 
ber.  In  1^1  it  contained  614  inhabitants.  In  tlie  churchy 
which  has  a  tall  spire,  are  the  remains  of  Saxon  architecture ; 
and  a  cross-legged  figure  of  Hugh  de  Morwic,  with  a  modem 
inscription.  Adjoining  the  church  was  a  cell  for  two  Benedic«* 
tine  monksy  from  Durham,  founded  by  Bishop  Farnham,  in 
1256,  and  endowed  with  the  appropriation  of  the  church  of 
Branxton.  The  Inidge  is  of  three  arches  of  stone ;  has  a  pillar 
with  the  Percys'  arms  on  the  middle  of  it ;  and  a  tower,  lately 
repaired,  at  its  south  end. 

The  castle  and  manor  of  Warkworth  were  held  of  Henry  the 
Second,  by  the  service  of  one  knight's  fee,  by  Roger  Fitz- 
Roger,  whose  ancestor,  Serlo  de  Burgh,  was  a  follower  of  the 
Conqueror.  Edward  the  First  sumamed  the  family  de  Claver' 
hgf  from  a  manor  in  Essex,  granted  to  them  by  King  John* 
Issue  male  failing  in  John  de  Clavering,  his  estates  fell  by  be- 
quest to  Edward  the  Third,  who  granted  them,  in  1S27,  to 
Henry,  Lord  Percy;  from  whose  family  this  place  was  taken 
in  the  reigns  of  Richard  the  Second  and  Henry  the  Fourth,  and 
given  to  Roger  Humfranville,  whose  constable  here  was  Hard- 
ing the  Chronicler.  It  was  restored  to  the  Percys  by  Henry  the 
Fifth,  and  several  times  after  seized  and  restored.  The  castle  was 
the  favourite  residence  of  the  Earls  of  Northumberland,  and  in 
Leland's  time  "well  menteyned;'*  but  in  1672,  its  timber 
and  lead  were  granted  to  one  of  their  agei.ts,  and  the  principal 
parts  of  it  unroofed.  At  all  points  of  view,  and  especially 
from  the  south,  it  is  a  most  magnificent  pile  of  ruin  :  "  and, 
though  of  great  strength,  it  seems  to  have  been  one  of  those 
hospitable  maniions," 

Where  throngs  of  knights  aiid  barons  bold. 
Th  weeds  of  peace  high  triumphs  bold, 

ihan 


192 


Ho  RTUU&i  BEnt  An  t}« 


than  one  of  *'  those  rugged  tbrtresse*  destined  solely  for  war.**^ 
Within  its  tuoat  it  contains  above  five  acres.  It  stands  oa 
rocky  its  wttHs  guarded  with  toirera,  and  of  a  triangular  sh 
the  keep  forming  Uie  apex,  and  the  southern  vrall,  in  which 
the  great  gfite  between  two  polygonal  towers,  the  base.  Tike 
keep  is  Kquare^  witli  the  angles  canted  off,  and  having  at  the 
middle  of  each  side  a  projecting  turret,  semi-hexagon  at  its 
base,  and  of  the  same  bight  as  the  rest  of  the  structure :  it 
contains  a  chapel,  and  a  variety  of  spacious  apartmentu,  and 
IB  fintBhcd  with  a  lofty  watch  tower,  connnandlng  an  almost  un* 
bounded  prospect- f 

IL'ilf  a  mile  above  the  castle,  on  the  brink  of  the  Coquet,  ii 
tlio   IIehmitage  of  Warkworth,  <;e]ebrated,  in  1771,  by  the 

late 
•  Gro«G. 

♦  E«tra<^t  of  »  Survey,  by  G.  l!lark%OQ,  in  1567,  one  of  tlio  au4lilOT%  to 
Uit  tUea  Liirl  of  Kor^iwiutHrbiid  ;— 

**  riic  buyldingc  of  Ui^j  sayd  cattail  on  the  aowth  parta,  ia  thrc  towres. 
The  ji|;iite-boLi!»e  toMTC,  iu  tlic  [fitdilJe  thereof,  inluch  is  ih'  entyir  at  a 
draw-briilgr  over  drye  moyte ;  and  in  the  ^anie  tow  re  ys  a  prison  unci 
poi  ter  lodge ;  and  ov^r  ihe  «aina  a  tare  lodginge,  called  the  con§ta1>les 
liMl|^g« ;  stid  ill  Ihe  conrtayrw  b€twe€n  the  gatehouise  and  wcit  towre  is 
0  fere  and  ci>me1y  buyldinK,  »  cUupell,  and  divei^e  hoo&cj  ol  offiee  one 
the  groiiiid  j  And  iibuve  the  ^reat  chambre,  and  Uic  Jotde^  lodginge :  all 
whidi  be  tiow  in  great  decay  e>  as  well  in  the  covert  our  beynge  lead,  k% 
aUo  in  timbre,  an  glaM ;  and  vrithout  some  help  of  repaiacioui  It  ^tU 
come  to  utter  ruin. 

**  Over  the  cotirte  from  the  postcmc  tow^re  is  the  foiinffacinn  of  n 
hofite,  wTiirh  wa.^  meant  1o  huve  been  a  coUed{>e,  and  part  of  tlie  mB9 
were  btiiided,  nrhuvb,  if  it  had  been  ti[iished»  would  have  mode  a  i^cifeot 
jiq^narc.  The  daun^ton  is  in  the  north  [larto  of  the  ^ytc  o(^  llie  i«^^ 
castetl,  let  upon  a  titttc  mount,  higher  than  the  rest  of  the  cowrte #*>»•• 
-»•'*•  6tcppes  of  grta»  befori-  you  enter  toyt:  and  the  same  js  hm\d 
Ri  fonre  square,  and  owt  of  every  square  ope  tuvvre ;  all  which  be  so 
quarterly  uqiiarcd  together,  that  in  Kijgbte  every  parte  appcarcih  fyvo 
tovrreii  very  lineiy  wrought  of  maiion  workj  and  iu  ibe  ^me  conteyned, 
«a  well  a  tkre  hall,  kytchinge»  and  all  oilier  homes  of  offices  verie  fare  and 
aptly  placed,  as  aUo  greet  cbambre,  chapel,  and  lodgings  for  the  lord  and 
kh  trayn,**  Ate.  &;c. 


NORTHUMftERLANO. 

Sate  Btfiliop  of  Dromore,  in  the  ballad  of  tJic  Hermit  of  f^'ark* 
^^vorth*     It  wns  only  for  one  priest,  or  hermit,  but  its  origin  and 
^^oundatian  are  uncertain.     The  Earl  of  Northumberland,  in  hk 
.^grant  to  the   last  hermit,  in   153%  calls  it    '*  min  artmtage, 
'Vbelded  in  a  rock  of  stone,  in  my  parke,  in  honor  of  the  Holy 
"Tr**uty.**     As  it  was  never  endowed  in  mortmain,  its  munifi* 
-^cent  allowance  reverted  to  the  Percy  family  at  the  dissolution. 
^Mere    are    renaains  of   buildings  of  masonry,   one    of  them 
-^Kighteen  feet  by  seven,  against  the  rock.     But  the  most  perfect 
-^^saiid  curious  part  of  it  consistJs  of  a  dnipel,  sacristy,  and  vest?* 
^^^ule,  hewn  out  of  a  fine  freestone  rock,  twenty  feet  high,  and 
overshadowed  wtUt  shrubs  and  stately  forest  trees.     The  en- 
trance is  by  file  chapel,  over  the  door  of  which  wits  formerly 
legible:  "Sunt  raihi  laclirymge  meac  cibo  interdice  &  noctu.** 
The  chaptl  is  about  eighteen  feet  long,  and  seven  feet  broad 
high,  and  executed  with  great  neatjiesa  in  columns,  groins, 
nd  arches,  in  the  old  Gothic  style.     It  is  lighted  by  a  window 
^^■if  two  compartments,  in  the  sill  of  which  lies  an  elegant  figure  of 
-3a  lady  ;  at  her  feet,  in  a  niche,  is  a  male  figure  kneeling,  his 
^3iead  on  his  left  palm,  and  his  right  palm  supporting  his  left 
^^Ibow;  and  an  obscure   figure   in  the  pillar  of  the  window. 
The  altar  is  the  breadth  of  the  chapel,  and  has  two  steps  to  it. 
-Parallel  uith  the  chapel,  five  feet  wide,  and  stretching  five  feet 
^^voimd  its  west  end,  is   the  mcriMt/^  lighted  from  the  cl.apel 
"*^tli  a  Gothic  window,  and  having  the  remains  of  an  altar  in 
^^^tf  and  over  its  door  a  shield,  with  instruments  of  the  passion. 
^Mu>  west  end  communicates  with  the  ve&tibnle^  in  which   are 
'^wo  square  niches,  and  from  whence  Iws  been  a  way  into  au 
^ipSftment  of  masonry,  having  remains  of  a  chimney,     A  stair'^ 
Oic  led  from  the  chapel  door  to  the  top  of  the  clitf,  where  was 
^e  hermit's  house  and  garden. 

Coquet  Island,  a  mile  from  the  main  land,  and  a  mile 

'ound,  is  said,  by  Bede,  to  have  been  famous  for  the  resort  of 

Qianks  in  St.  Cuthbert*s  lime*     It  had  upon  it  a  ceil  of  Bene- 

VoL.  XIL  O  dJctine* 


192 

than  one  of 


COP* 


ho. 


.  :ho  mill*"  oi  v.  l.'c.S 


W*^"   '^^  .  arul  li-ht-iioiiM .      h 

^^^^y  »^-^  ^ood  vaym-  oi'  .in  oio, 

"^^  r^^*- •  \nit  seven  at-vcN  «;*'  :'   *. 

^^'0»'-  -.0  Secoiul's  rei-n,  i.:-:.- 

.  :ii   till'  parisii  .»:*  lA->lr.->v, 

.->  exports,  corn,  p.^rk,  rgi:-, 

*•*  '  ^.  .:iul  slup-hiiiluiiij:  iiiattrial>. 


..ro,  till  lati!},  tliv  rrr.ian.>  oi' 

XV,  ot*  vfi-y  ariciciU  anhiurtsire, 

:hv  last   of  it  was  blown  down 

'.♦.as  used   till   Ifiteh,  a:ul   liviit- 

'.'  tiio  sca-bunks  near  it  bj,    tl;?* 

'iiilht  by   the  valvar  to  hv  bon,-. 

; »r.scs,  siaii^i;}itcred  in  boniir  <i  !> 


vl  NWk'K. 

\.»rtliiinib(  riaia?.  ami  »t;i   aiuloiL   bo- 

».-i»rporatc  by  [ireseription,  eon--lstiis:x 

*.v*.«iiioii-t:ouncil   ()r   futiifx-iiiiir,  and 

.•'yiriri.  witli  a  v.  ..l!,  ihrtt    ^lm:*.-.*  j\ -■, 

f<v.i  r- 
1  "».  .hilijix.  i«.i'.  \.  p.  I.. », 

..•'ini*>i^ii  rn  Si.  M  irk' (!  ••. .  ji.;-  fs.  i"l!i  a 
.»  •«.%  I«'ct  over,  «<ii  a  ip<in.  rMiimrly  r..il('l  .!■..'♦;, 
»  till  (iiil  till  ulxMit  a  v\;»'k  1h;;«i»-  t:  ;  ..•!:!!  ^•■•n 
..ii!j»,  and  i\<  liiilti-in  nimh'  i!i.('. ;.  '\ ,,':  -lo'..  '., 
»»  Hi' >ira\\.  \i\  .1  iH'^uii  x^}i«.  ii\(«-  i;- .u.  ;.,ii>  ,  .'.^ 
.vOUKi'i  fiwni,*  liia!  il  ly.  In  M/nio  |  I.k  »  •  i;  i  ..n  ^^ 
•  *  I  lull  .  and  n«»  ^li<k,  or  ctlu-r  ht  Iji  l.r:i!:  arc»u»  -i, 
.\«und« ''H'^  u!iioi»'-r  tht.' nmd.     Tlii^  ili.n- .  ai.-.l   ;l. -j 


KORTUUMBEKLAND.  ^  195 

Uwcrs  of  wlach  still  remain.  In  1801  it  contained  4719  inha- 
bitants. Its  market  is  on  Saturdays,  and  well  supplied ;  and  its 
fairSf  on  the  twelfth  of  May,  the  last  Monday  in  July,  the  first 
Tuesday  in  October,  and  the  twenty-fourth  of  December. 
The  Toivn  Hall  was  built  in  1731  ;  the  S/tatnbleSf  which  are 
Gothic,  by  the  late  Duke  of  Northumberland.  At  the  head  of 
Pottergate  is  a  toiver,  in  imitation  of  that  of  St.  Nicholas,  in 
Newcastle,  built  at  the  expence  of  the  borough,  in  1786 :  it 
was  intended  for  a  ring  of  bells ;  but  since  made  a  clock-house.  * 
Here  are  ivro  Jree-schools  ;  one  of  them  for  the  classics,  founded 
in  1G87,  rebuilt  in  1741,  and  endowed  with  certain  tolls:  also 
two  charity  schools  ;  and  one  07i  Lancaster's  system^  inscribed 
thus  in  its  front :  <*  For  the  education  of  200  poor  boys,  this 
school  was  erected  and  founded  by  Hugh,  Duke  of  Nor- 
thumberland, on  the  twenty-fiftli  day  of  October,  1810;  in 
commemoration  6f  our  sovereign,  George  the  Third,  having  oH 
that  day  completed  the  fiftieth  year  of  his  reign.'*  The 
churchy  which  is  dedicated  to  St.  ^lary  and  St.  Michael,  is 
Gothic,  150  feet  by  52.  In  tlie  south  aisle  are  three  ancient 
recumbent  effigies  of  persons  unknown.  The  chancel  is  sup'* 
ported  by  two  rows  of  elegant  fluted  pillars,  with  flowered  ca- 
pital ;  and  lias  a  large  open  space  behind  the  altar.  Near  the 
town,  in  172G,  were  found  on  a  quarry  head,  about  twenty 
swords,  sixteen  spear  heads,  and  forty  celts ;  and  on  the  face 
of  the  rock  above  them  was  rudely  cut  a  date,  1 1 45. 

Alnwick  Castle,  the  principal  seat  of  his  grace  the  Duke  of 
Northumberland,  belonged  toWiDiam  Tyson,  a  Saxon  baron,  who 
was  slain  in  the  battle  of  Hastings  ;  and  whose  daughter,  and  poS' 
se8sion6,were  given  by  the  conqueror  to  Ivo  de  Vesco,  one  of  his 

O  2  followers. 

rloatiis  aliiftcd.tlipy  ritlc  the  bounds  of  the  moor,  attended  by  tlie  two  oldest 
fubabitants  as  guides;  each  of  the  newly-initiatcd  ahi;htiii!,'  from  his  horse 
f¥ery  quarter  of  a  mile,  to  cas»t  a  stone  upon  tlie  boundary  cairns  or 
kirocks.  This  road,  which  is  about  twelve  miles,  is  over  many  dangerous 
precipices.  Tradition  asiigns  tlii«  ciistoio  to  a  capricious  mandate  •f 
iung  John. 


^ 


I^  XORTIIUMBRllLAKD. 

foBowcTf.  Tro*$  heiress,  by  Henry  tlie  First >  was  inarrled  to 
Emtace  Fitx  John,  whose  descendant^  Eustace  do  Tescy,  held 
this  boronry  of  Henry  the  Third,  by  the  service  of  thirteen 
kiughts*  fees.*  William  de  Vescy,  the  last  baron  of  this  fa- 
mily, died  in  1^7»  leaving  the  barony  of  Malton,  in  York- 
^hire,  la  Gilbert  de  Aitun,  who  had  mangled  hts  only  daughter; 
and  this  barony  to  Anthony  Bee,  Bishop  of  Durlian),  in  trust 
for  his  natural  son,  William  de  Vescy,  a  minor*  The  bishop, 
tlhr  holding  it  urxen  years,  sold  it  to  Henry  Lord    Percy,  in 

^1S10;  and  since  that  time  it  has  shared  the  fortune  and  vicissi- 
ttidai  of  that  powerful  family.| 
Thif* 
■  •  Test,  dc  NcF,  'JO^, 

M  tW  PffCf  ffttnily  derive  thdr  dcscirnt  from  Manfre*!  P^rcj-^  wh4» 
CUM  out  of  DenmArk  Into  Nomiajidy,  bcfurc  Rolkt ;  nnd  William  and 
$r\10f  fifth  in  descent  from  liim,  came  InUi  Kti^lAiid  with  the  Cndrjnrrnr. 
*nie  nmlc  line  frtiled  till  ITeiii-y  IL  but  Agnes  marry inp  JoRi»eliue  dc  l/>- 
f till  Iftnn',  tilt*  tiftli  nf  tLietr  de^cendAnt^  (who  Itad  a^.^nmrd  the  iiaifi«  of 
JVfcy)  wa*  ^rcjiti^d  ICarl  of  Northumbcdfttid,  51  Edward  III.'*  Hit  br»* 
liter  ThoiitftXy  Eiirl  of  \\'orce»trr^  «vnd  liis  renowucd  ifoii,  Hot»|)tir,  ^en* 
i^iM  At  tbc  tmttle  of  Shrewsbury*  After  this  he  was  attainted,  hut  soon 
ilWr  liikcii  i»»to  tavoiir  ;  lhou':h  he  ajraiii  t'Ojjus^cd  in  irhdhuii,  iind  fffl  Ht 
lUHiam  Muur,  in  t  ^Ot>.  Honrj^  son  nf  Henry  I!ot«|inrj  in  i\w  hegintitiis 
^tlii^  K^iR"  <^*'  Hrnry  the  Fifth,  was  restored  to  Iti^  father's  c^ute  and 
mif ;  hilt  wan  ftlnin  "» the  battle  of  St.  Albmi'a,  in  1451.  Hh  scun,  TIeiiry, 
tliinl  earl,  fell  in  the  battle  of  Towton,  AtYcr  tliis  Jolia  Nevil,  Lord 
Xm^w^  «'»»  creatt'd  Earl  of  North  utnUej  land  ;  htil,  iji  iiW,  it-su^ed  tl 
16  Mfltry  i'«*rry,  ridc-t  sou  of  the  tliird  tail,  llr  al^o  fell  l>y  thr  s\\rird, 
b*lilK  >^**"  *"  *"  lusurnction  f>f  J^ea.-lallt^  ^s^in'^l  tlie  cotlfetuin  of  thr 
^fff^  al  Coxlftdife,  nearThJrsk,  in  VorKshire,  in  lioa.  Hrnry  Uh  wp, 
^  fifth  rutli  died  in  li^iC^  and  was  buHi'd  iipar  ht^^  father,  at  Deverley. 
nil  *^  •**'*  «wercwor,  Henry,  died  in  liv;37,  Icavinjjf  iio  issue,  Soon  after 
lIlK  «liihn  lluilU'V,  B^il  of  VVarkwoiIJi,  was  created  Dnkc  of  Northiunl>er- 
laiidf  al>cr  Hho»e  dcrohuion,  Thomiw,  nori  of  Thomas  Perry,  who  wa^  pnt 
In  fitith  (i»t  taking  np  arm«  a^in««t  Hntry  tiie  lti£;hth,  obtained  hb  nnclc'» 
^^^l  ^  ,  Imt  bdiig  t'onunitled  to  the  To^er,  on  j«u-«>plriuii  of  tit-asou, 
1^  If,  Jime  1*1,  1A84,    HU  brotlier  Henry  sueccedcd  him,  ac- 

Miiliitf  ^*  ^'^^  tenure  of  Queen  M^arj^'s  patent,  aad  in  156J>,  ended  hk  daya 


lUrtu 

L         nftlH 

H      ffitr; 

^^J|lll 


K0ftTtlUMBERLAK1>.  197 

Thk  castle  standB  on  elevated  ground^  on  the  south  side  of 
^^e  AJne.     **  It  is  believed,"    says   Grose,    "  to  have  beea 
^^^anded  by  the  Romans ;  for  when  a  part  of  the  castle- keep 
^^mwBs  taken  down  to  be  repaired  some  years  ago,  under  die  pre- 
^sent  walls  were  discovered  the  foundations  of  other  buildings^ 
"^rhich  lay  in  a  different  direction  from  the  present,  and  some  of 
^he  fctones  appeared  to  have  Roman  mouldings.     The  zigzag 
Network  round  the  arch  leading  to  the  inner  court  is  evidently 
^f  Saxon  architecture ;  and  yet  tliis  was  probably  not  the  most 
^^nttesit  entrance,  for  under  the  fiag  tower  (before  that  part 
i^as  taken  down  and  rebuilt  by  the  present  duke)  was  the  ap- 
pearance of  a  gateway,    that  had  been  walled  up,    directly 
fronting  the  present  outward  gateway  into  the  town,"     It  was 
a  consid(;nible  fortress  in  1093,  in  which  year  it  withstood  the 

O  3  memorable 

to  prison.    "  Henry  Percy,  the  ninth  carl,  wa^  not  re«tor(Ki  to  \m  honours 

Ut\  4  Chatici  I«  IjAvmi,'  been  impf  JMrncd  iu  tlie  Toupr  most  of  the  rciitm  of 

Jittiies  I*  lor  mjjpri^u  uf  ticasoti  coiiceriim:*  tht'  puwder  ptol.     Hf  *ii*rc! 

ftrirl  wa^i  bttrted  at  Petwortlif  ifiJi'.     Hv  was  succeeded  by  his  §ou,  Al^er- 

iton,  biincil  at  tJicsame  place,  1668.     Hk  .^uccet'^or  w»s  liis  son  Joscehne, 

fanrird  tlicre,  1670*    Dyin^  without  issue  loale,  tti^e  harony  devolved  oti  liis 

iduftiter,  Eli3Eahetli»  uiarriLd  to  Ileiiry  CavciidTsh,  Earl  of  Ogtc  (only  sou 

I  licir  of  Henr)%  Duke  ofNenoasUe)  who  took  the  name  *nri  anns  of 

Perry,  and  died  and  uaa  burit-d  »t  Petvvortlj^  1680*    Algernon,  her  eoit 

by  her  f^ccoud  husband^  Chailes  Seymour,   Duke  of  Somerset,  was.  the 

twdftit  £arl  of  Nortlitmiberlandf  by  crculioii,  1749^  S3  George  IL  being 

ttheftam*'  tiinir  Duke  <jf  SomerseL     He  died  I7;t[l»  and  was  buried  in 

fettmin^ti-T  Abbty .     His  oiijy  soo  Geor^i-  dyttig  before  biin,  1744,  tJie 

Utie    dev(itved  to  bU  only  ^i^ter  ICli^abeiti,   mairicd  1740    to  Sir  Hugh 

Sijiiihsou,  Bart,  who  succeed*?d  in  tJte  tifle  of  carl  1750,  on  the  death  of  tfje 

Duke  if  Jjonicrnet,  and  1760  was  created  Duke  of  Northumberland,     He 

dietl  June  i,  17iJ6,  aud  wa^  buried  in  WcstJuimicr  Abbey,  and  succeedcil 

by  tiii  eldest  son,  and  namestike,  Hugh,  fonrteendi  Duke  of  Noithuntbcf* 

nd.     Hi*   brother  Alger acm,  in  cuiiseciuence  of  hi»  father  liavio^  been 

eAled  Lurd  Lovaiue,  Ba.ron  of  Alnwick,  is  now  a  peer  of  Great  liritaio^ 

by  U»e'€  titles.    The  tiUe«  cf  Earl  mid  Duke  of  Nortliunibedatid  had  be- 

►re  been  conferred,   by  Charles  IL  iiiB3^  on  his  natural  sou,  George 

oy,  wtUi  whom  Lhe^  boUi  expired/*^ — Gough'a  Camd,  III,  S?58,* 


198  NORTHUMBERLAND. 

memorahle  siege  against  Malcolm,    King  of  Scots,   and   hi« 
S01I9    Prince  Edward,    both  of  whom  were  slain  before  it.* 
William  the  Third,  of  Scotland,  was  taken  prisoner  here  in 
llT-k     King  John  burnt  it  down  in  1216.     After  1310,  it  un- 
derwent a  thorough  repair.     The  two  octagonal  towers  were 
added  to  the  old  Saxon  gateway,  in  the  inner  ward,  in  1350» 
as  b  apparent  from  the  numerous  shields  upon  them.    It  con- 
sistt  c^'  three  wards,  and  contains  within  its  outer  walls  about 
five  acres.     The  walls  are  flanked  with  sixteen  towers,  most  of 
whidi  are  fitted  up  in  a  stvie  as  suitable  to  their  architecture 
as  is  conTenient  with  modem  manners.    The  battlements  of 
the  tewers  are  embellished  with  grotesque  figures  of  warriors, 
riany  ca  them  anoioat,  others  added  bv  the  late  duke,  who, 
on  his  accession  to  the  estate,  restored  tiie  whole  of  the  edifice 
tnxu  a  ruin  to  its  present  ma^iificence.      The  saloon  in  the 
€ftt*kl  b  fortT'-two  feet  br  thirty-nine,  and  ornamented  with 
l^cturvs  of  the  ninth,  tenth,  and  eleventh  Ecrls  of  Northum- 
berlanKt      The  iM«j^a/o«  is  forty-six. feet  by  thirty-five; 
and  the  J««^-nvi«  fifty-four  feet  by  twenty-one,  exclusive  of 
a  eireulnr  recess^   nineteen  feet  in  diameter.    The  chapel  is 
fi:\Y  feet  by  tweuty-one,  corloil  in  the  manner  of  King's  College, 
in  Cambridge,  the  walls  painted  like  the  great  church  of  Milan, 
anil  the  windows  of  painted  glass  of  great  lightness  and  ele- 
gance. 

Alnwick  Abbey,  sweetly  seated  on  tlie  northern  margin  of 
the  Alne,  was  the  first  house  of  the  Premonstratensians  in 
England:  they  settled  at  it  in  1147,  when  Eustace  Fitz  John, 
who  took  the  surname  of  Vescy,  gave  tliem  a  foundation 
charter  and  rich  endowments.  Its  abbot  was  frequently  sum- 
moned to  parliament.  In  1534  it  was  valued  at  1891,  15s.  and 
Wtts  granted  to  Sadler  and  Winnington  in  1549.  The  Brand- 
lings 

*  Acroi9  was  erected,  in  1774,  by  the  Duchess  of  Norihinnbcrland,  011 
tin  p^ee  where  Malcolm  fell,  her  grace  being  lineally  descended  fron) 
Urn. 


NORTHUMBERLAND.  1 99 

lings  made  it  their  scat  several  years,  and  afler  them  the 
DoubledaySy  by  whose  heirs  its  scite  was  lately  sold  to  the 
Duke  of  Northumberland.  A  gateway  tower  of  it  remains,  on 
which  are  armorial  shields  of  the  Percys,  crosses,  and  a  niche 
richly  crowned  with  open  Gothic  work.  St  Leonardos  Hoipi* 
t4ilf  in  Abwick,  was  granted  to  it  by  Lord  Percy,  in  1375. 
The  chronicle  of  this  abbey  is  in  King's  College  Library,  Cam- 
bridge. 

HuLNE  Abbey  stands  in  a  woody  and  delightful  solitude,  in 
Hulne  Park,  three  miles  above  Alnwick.  Among  the  English 
barons  who  went  to  the  Holy  Wars,  in  the  time  of  Henry'  the 
Third,  were  William  Lord  Vescy,  and  Ralph  Gray.  In  a 
visit  to  Mount  Carmel,  they  found  among  its  monks  ont  Ralph 
Fresburn,  a  Northumberland  gentleman,  who  had  signalized 
himself  in  a  former  crusade,  and  whom  they  intrdated  the  sa- 
perior  of  the  monastery  to  permit  to  return  with  them ;  their 
request  was  granted,  on  condition  that  they  founded  a  house 
fbr  Carmelites  at  home.  Afler  their  return,  Fk'csbum,  it  is 
saidf  fixed  upon  this  spot,  from  its  striking  resemblance  to 
Mount  Carmel,  and,  at  his  own  expence,  began  to  lay  the 
foundations  of  this  abbey  in  V2\0;  it  was  endowed  by  the 
Lprds  of  Alnwick.  Johij  Bale,  the  biographer,  lived  and 
studied  here.  Its  outer  walls  and  gateways  arc  still  very  en- 
tire ;  but  it$  numerous  chapels,  oratories,  and  offices,  are  much 
dilapidated.  The  most  perfect  part  of  it  is  a  fine  tower,  which 
was  fitted  up  in  the  Gotliic  style,  by  the  late  duke :  on  the 
wall  adjoining  is  tliis  inscription,  in  old  English  letters,  in 
relief : — 

In  the  year  of  Crist  Jim  ra.ccrc.iii  «!t  viii* 

Tliis  towr  was  bilUcd  by  Sir  Hen.  Percy 

'ilie  foiirlli  eric  of  NortlniWeriad  of  gret  honr  A:  worth 

Tliat  espoused  Maiid  y*  pjood  lady  full  of  virtue  &  bewty 

Paugter  tp  Sir  WilUii  Herbert,  right  noble  Sc  hardy 

()  4  Eric 

•  Anno  1468,  about  the  lime  he  was  restored  to  his  father's  powcMiox)^ 
.411(1  earldom.    See  Col!.  Pew.  VI.  70?. 


)ttD  SO&THUMBERI^ND* 

Erie  €f  Pembrock  iii:ose  sou!*  s  91MI  nve 

And  with  bis  ^nce  ooscnre  y*  boildr  of  this  towr. 

HowicK  v«s  a  maior  of  the  Muschanqp  baronj,  in  Heniy 

dw  Thnd*s  rv^n,  and  afterwards  engrafted  upon  that  of  WiU 

Itam  de  Vckt,  of  whom  it  was  held  by  Adam  Ryhaud^  by 

scrvm  of  one  knight's  fee.*     Hontercombie,  one  of  the  repre- 

acoutiies  of  the  Mttschamps,  howerer,  died  seized  of  half  of 

k»  etther  b  1313  or  1317.     &r  Ralph  Grey^  of  Chillingham, 

IkU  anediely  01* it  in  the  reign  of  Henry  the  Eighth  ;  and  the 

wlwtte  of  h  was  possessed  hy  hb  descendant,  John  Grey,  Esq. 

la  ITOU  whcise  SOD,  Henir,  was  created  a  baronet  in  1746 ; 

dM  in  17J9:  and  was  succeeded  in  his  title  and  property  by 

hfe  eMtst    aoQ  llenrr,   at  whose  decease,   in  1808,  Howick 

JtiKeoiSad  to  ht$  nephew  Charles  Grty^  Earl  Greif,  and  Vic" 

NaiMtf  Ifcpm..^.  who  for  many  yean  distinguished  himself  for 

htt  waiimB  «fipi3^Hm  to  Mr.  Pitt's  administration ;   and,  as 

ttie  ar$t  Iced  of  the  Adwralty,  became  a  cd]eague  in  govem- 

■K^Bt  wHh  >fr-  Fcoc.    Tbe  ^  little /».V,"  or  tower  of  Howick, 

Murntioaed  by  Leisnd,  *  was  eoiered,"  says  Wallis,  "  by  a 

t^i  ot^5«ep$^  anxi  wa$  9  fiur  structure,  to  the  end  of  which, 

the  6r$t  Sir  Henry  Grey  boSt  a  large  handsome  house,  end 

ekftaiu  offices."     This  pile  was  taken  down  in  1787,  when  the 

prtKitt  noble  structure  was  commenced*     Fhyne  and  ether 

architects  gave  ilestgns  for  it;  but  it  was  chiefiy  executed 

under  the  direction  of  Mr.  Newton,  of  Newcastle.    Its  inter- 

mil  arrangenamts,  furniture,  and  decorations,  were  last  year 

ahniist  entirely  renewed ;  the  wings  joined  to  the  centre  by  two 

additions,  the  fronts  of  which  form  the  arcs  of  a  quadrant ; 

m*w  gateways  made;   the  approaches  altered:  and  the  lawn 

broken  into  a  better  style.     It  stands  within  a  mile  of  the  sea. 

The  chmrck^  which  is  on  the  margin  of  a  brook,  that  skirts  the 

IiwHv  was  built  by  the  first  barotiet,  though  he  was  not  its 

pitroOt  and  is  an  edifice  of  great  neatness,  without  a  tower, 

itt  fPoMy  and  in  the  Greek  style. 

Craster. 
•  Test  de  Nev.  38*. 


NORTHUMBERL ANI>. .  90V 

Chaster.  William  de  Craucestr*  held  Craucestr^y  in  1272, 
if  the  barony  of  John  le  Viscount,  by  the  service  of  half  n 
ight's  fee,  and  at  present  it  is  the  seat  and  manor  of  his 
Lineal  descendant  Shafloe  Craster^  Esq.  The  hall^  which  is 
fcuilt  of  basalty  stands  in  a  deep  grove  of  forest  trees,  and  has 
Kne  sea  views  through  the  chasms  of  a  bold  chain  of  broken. 
Brocks,  that  run  between  it  and  the  shore.  The  grounds  about 
St  are  kept  exceedingly  neat  and  trim.  The  village  of  Craster, 
•^)n  an  inlet  of  the  sea,  is  inhabited  by  fishermen. 

DuNSTANBRouGii  was  a  manor  and  estate  of  Prince  £d- 
Tnund,    Earl   of  Lancaster,    whose  son    Thomas   obtained  a 
licence,  in  1315,  to  make  a  castle  of  his  manor-house  in  this 
place.    He  was  the  most  powerful  and  opulent  subject  in  Eu- 
rope in  his  time;   but  becoming  general  of  the  confederate 
army  that  opposed  Edward  the  Third,  he  was  beheaded,  and 
afterwards  canonized.     This  estate  and  fortress  were  restored 
to  his  brother,   and  continued  in  the  Lancastrian  house  till 
afler  the  battle  of  Hexham,  when  certain  of  Queen  Margaret's 
adherents,    namely.   Sir   liichard  Tunstall,    Thomas  Findern, 
Dr.  Morton,  and  others,  with  120  men,  continuing  within  it 
in  arras,    it  was  besieged  by  Lords  Wenlock,  Hastings,  and 
two  others,  with  a  large  force,  and,  after  three  days  assault, 
was  taken,  and  battered  into  ruins,  in  which  state  it  has  ever 
since  continued.     It  stands  upon  a  high  whinstone  rock,  acces- 
sible on  the  south,  but  naturally  defended  by  a  rocky  declivity 
^on  the  west,  and  by  the  sea  and  abrupt  frightful  precipices  on 
the  ew^t  and  north.     Nothing  at  present  remains  of  it  but  its 
outworks,  s::hich  are  in  the  form  of  a  crescent,  and  chiefly 
consist  of  the  shtjU  of  the  keep,  on  the  highest  ground  on  the 
west;   of  a  strong  giwpmy  gateway,   defended  by  two  large 
round  towers ;  and  of  three  square  towers  in  the  southern  wall. 
Its  area  contains  about  nine  acres ;  and,  in  one  year,  is  said  to 
have  produced  24-0  Winchester  bushels  of  com,  besides  several 
loads  of  hay.      Hexangular  crystals,   called    Dunstanbrough 

diamonds^ 


202  KORTHUMBEKLAND. 

diamonds^  are  sometimes  found  here,  which  are  not  inferior  !• 
those  of  Bristol  in  hardness  and  lustre. 

The  village  of  Dunstan  is  celebrated  as  the  birth-place  of 
Duxs  ScoTUS,  the  famous  opposer  of  Aquinas.  In  one  of  his 
MS.  works,  are  these  words : — "  Explicit  lectura  Docioris  Sub- 
tiles  in  Universitatc  Oxoniensi  super  quartum  libnim  sententia- 
rum,  scilicet,  Domini  Johannis  Duns,  nati  in  quadam  villula  paro- 
chiae  de  Emylton,  vocata  Dunstan,  in  Comitatu  Northurabrias, 
pertinentc  domui  Scholarum  de  Merton  Hall  in  Oxonia,  ct  quon- 
dam socii  dictac  domus."  This  place  belongs  to  Merton  College 
to  this  day. 

In  this  parish  also  is  Fallowden  House,  the  scat  of  the 
late  Earl  Grey,  which  he  inherited  from  his  mother,  who  was 
an  heiress,  of  the  name  of  Wood.  His  lordship  signalized 
himself,  as  a  general,  in  America,  and  in  the  West  Indies ; 
and  was  created  a  peer  of  the  realm,  by  the  title  of  Baron 
Grey  de  Howick,  in  1801 ;  and  of  Earl  Grey,  Viscount  Howick, 
in  1806.  At  present  it  is  in  possession  of  the  Countess  Dowa- 
ger Grey. 

"  The  Fam  Islands,"  says  Pennant,  "  form  two  groups  of 
little  isles  and  rocks,  to  the  number  of  seventeen;  but  at  low 
water  the  points  of  others  appear  above  the  surface.  They  are 
rented  for  161.  per  annum  :  their  produce  is  kelp,  some  few 
feathers,  and  a  few  seals,  which  tlie  tenant  watches  and  shoots, 
for  the  sake  of  the  oil  and  skms.  Some  of  them  yield  a  little 
grass.  The  nearest  isle  to  the  shore  is  called  House  Island^ 
which  lies  exactly  one  mile  and  sixty-eight  chains  from  the 
coast.  On  this  secjuestered  spot  St.  Cuthbert  spent  the  two 
last  years  of  his  life."  Here  was  afterwi^fcJs  established  a 
prior?/  tor  six  benedicline  monks,  subordinate  to  Durham.  It 
was  valued,  in  1.031,  at  121.  ITtJ.  ^d.  The  remains  of  it  are 
sadly  shattered.  Part  of  the  square  tower,  which  Leland  says 
was  built  by  "  Prior  Castel  of  Durham,  the  last  save  one," 
is  still  standing.  There  is  a  light  home  here,  and  a  well  of  fine 
fresh  water. 

Ellingiiam 


NOATHUMBERLAND.  S09 

ELLtKGUAM  is  the  name  of  a  pamh^  and  was  the  barony  of 
Ralph  de  Gaiigy  in  Henr)^  tiic  Third*s  reign.  In  1378  it  waa 
a  lordship  of  the  heroic  knight,  Sir  Alan  de  Heton,  whose 
name,  at  his  death,  was  extinct  in  co-heiresses.  In  1460,  on 
the  attainder  of  the  Earl  of  Northumberland,  it  was  given,  with 
some  other  manors,  to  the  king's  brother,  George,  Duke  of 
Clarence*  John  Swinburne,  of  Chapwell,  in  the  county  of 
Durham,  forfeited  it  in  the  rebellion  in  1769*  The  hally  which 
is  an  ancient  building,  much  repaired  last  year,  iss  the  seat  of 
Thomas  Huggerston,  Esq.  a  brother  of  Sir  Camaby,  and  wlio 
inherited  this  estate  from  his  uncle  Edward. 

BAMttVRGii  Castle  <(tands  upon  a  bogalt  rock,  of  a  trian- 
gular shape,  high,  rugged,  and  abrupt,  on  the  land  side; 
Hanked  by  the  sea,  and  strong  natural  rampire*  of  sand,  matted 
togeiiier  with  sea  rushes,  on  the  east ;  and  only  accesstbJe  to 
an  enemy  on  the  south*east,  which  is  guarded  by  a  deep  dry 
ditch,  and  a  series  of  towers  in  the  wall,  on  cuch  side  of  the 
gateway.  The  rock  is  beautifully  besprinkled  with  lichens  of 
various  rich  tints  ;  it  rises  150  feet  above  the  level  o^  the  sea, 
and  lies  upon  a  stratum  of  mouldering  $tone»  iipparently  scorched 
with  violent  heat,  and  having  beneath  it  a  close  flinty  sand- 
atooe«  Its  crown  is  girt  with  walls  and  towers,  which,  on  the 
land  ddc,  have  been  nearly  all  repaired ;  but  on  the  east  arc 
^fl  ruinous.  The  outLT  gateway  standi  between  two  fine  old 
iDwers,  with  time-worn  heads  s  twelve  paces  witliin  it  is  a  se- 
^  *  ife,  which  is  machicolated,  and  has  a  portcullis;  and 
iig,  on  the  left  hand,  audon  a  Iot\y  point  iy\*  rock,  is  a 
t«Ty  aocient  round  tower,  of  great  stren*?'^*^  commanding  a  pass, 
N)  every  kind  of  annoyance  from  the  bcfeiogcd.  **  This 
.  .;  _ars  die  moKt  ancient  appearance,  and  challenges  tlte 
Savons  for  its  origitu"     Tlie  keep  *  stands  on  the  area  of  the 

rock, 

*  WalUs  Au<J  oiljriff  tliuuglil  t]je  bajie  of  thu  tower  was  ni*  Roman  oii. 
90,  wbicii  Gro^ie  Loutradicts.  As  **  three  Romui]  diMiurii,  one  of  them  a 
V«psi&ian,"  w^r<'  foaml  here,  wc  mav  fairly  coiiuUitlt%  llml  tUi^  w»s  {\w 
•rite  of  aoc  of  the  Cu<^r4lL-i  buiU  by  Agiicoia^  in  \m  tluril  camitaigu  in 
ftritiun. 


SOI 


KOETRUMftEairAKJD. 


rock,  having  an  open  space  around  it.     It  is  square, 
that  kind  of  buiJding  which  prevailed  from  the  Cooqi 
about  the  time  of  Henry  tlie  Second.     It  had  no  chimney  ;  but 
fires  had  been  made  in  the  middle  of  a  large  room,  the  door  of 
which  was  of  stone,  supported  by  arches,  and  the  Hght  ad- 
mitted into  it  by  a  window  near  its  top,  three  feet  square.     AI] 
the  other  roouiji  were  lighted  by  slit  holes,  six  inches  broad 
It  is  bailt  of  siiial!  stoni^F,  from  a  quarry  at  SunderIand-on-tli€ 
Sea,  three  miles  digtant ;  within  it  is  a  draw-well,  discovered 
ia  1770,  in  clearing  the  celiai*  irom  sand  and  rubbt&b  ;  its  depthJ 
is  1 15  fecti  cut  through  solid  rock,  of  which  seventy  4ive  feet  J 
is  of  whinstone.    Dr»  ijharpe  repaired  one  story  of  it  for  a  court  j 
room   for  the  manor;    at   present   ihe   truhtees    under   Lord] 
Oewe'ci  will,  reside  in  it.    The  drawing-room  is  huug  round 
with  iapcsirj/f  in  which  in  wrought  the  life  of  Marcus  Aurelius ; 
'  and  with  portraits  of  Lord  and  Lauy  Crewe,  and  Dr.  Sharpe. 
The  Ubrari/  is  extensive,  is  circulated  gratis  for  twenty  miles 
round,  and  was  the  bequest  of  Dr.  Sharpe*     TJie  remains  of 
tliC  chapel  were  found  under  a  prodigious  mass  of  land  in  1773* , 
The  chancol  is  separated  from  the  nave,  thirty-six  feet  by] 
twenty,  and,  aiXet  the  Saxon  fashion,  semicircular  at  the  > 
end*     The  ancient  font  was  discovered^  and  is  preserved  in  the  ^ 
ke^     The  altur  had  a  passage  round  iu    The  rebuilding  of 
tliis  cilifiee  bus  been  commenced  on  its  old  foundations. 

**  St,  Bede,  in  describing  the  besieging  and  burning  of  it  by  ' 
tPenda,  the  Mercimi,  saj$,  it  had  its  name  from  Queen  Bebba. 
I  But  Matthew  of  Wostmiaster  tells  us,  that  Ida,  first  King  of 
jKonhumiKr!and»  built  it,  fortifying  it  fin^t  with  wooden  pall - 
leadoes,  and  after wainl^  with  a  wall  But  take  the  folio win^-J 
^description  of  it  frum  Roger  Hoveden : — *  Bebba  is  a  strong 
^ity,  not  very  large,  but  including  about  two  or  three 

aving  one  entrance  hollowed  out,  and  raised  mih  steps,  in  a^ 
►tuqirizing  niaiiner,  and  on  the  top  of  the  hill  a  beautiful 
church,  and  to  the  west,  at  the  top,  a  fountain,  adorned  with 
extraordinary  workmanship,  sweet  to  the  taste,  and  clear  to  the 


KOTRTnUMBERLAND.  S05 

eye.     At  this  time  it  is  rather  a  castle  than  a  city,  though  large 
enough  to  pass  for  a  city,'*     Alfred  calls  it  Sa  cynelican 

buph,  ISe  mon  nemepBebbaa  buph.  Penda attempt- 
ed to  bum  it  in  672,  by  setting  fire  to  piles  of  wood  laid  against 
its  walls ;  but  the  wind  blowing  contrary,  the  flames  caug!vt 
hk  own  camp,  and  he  was  obliged  to  raise  the  siege,  Brrthric» 
after  being  some  time  besieged  here,  in  V05,  salUed  out,  and 
took  Eardulf  prisoner,  and  routed  his  army*  Here  Oswald's 
teliques  were  kept,  and  wrouglit  miracles.  It  was  destroyed  in 
993  by  the  Danes  ;  but  about  the  time  of  the  Conquest  was  in 
good  repair*  William  Eufus  besieged  Earl  Mowbray  here; 
but  Etidlng  the  place  impregnable,  he  built  a  tower  of  Mal- 
voisin  against  it,  and  leaving  a  strong  garrison,  marched  south- 
ward* The  earl  escaped,  but  was  tdken  at  T^nnemouth :  his 
wife»  and  Governor  Morel,  held  out,  till  the  king  threatened 
to  put  out  his  eyes  unless  they  surrendered,  ivhich  they  ae* 
cordingly  did,  Edward  the  First  summoned  Baliol  to  meet 
him  here,  and,  on  his  refusal,  invaded  Scotland,  and  took 
hio»  prisoner ;  and  here  his  successor  sheltered  his  favourite 
Gavcstnn,  in  1310.  It  lost  the  greatest  part  of  its  beauty  in  a 
aiege  alW  the  battle  of  Hexham.  **  From  that  time  it  has* 
^tiflercd  by  time  and  winds,  which  throw  up  incredible  quan- 
Litiee  of  sand  from  the  sea  upon  its  walls,  through  the  windows^ 
wltich  arc  open»"f 

Sir  John  Forsler  was  governor  of  it  in  Elizabeth^s  reign  ; 
dnd  his  grandson  John  obtained  a  grant  of  it  and  the  manor, 
from  James  the  First.  His  descendant,  Thomas,  forfeited  it 
in  1715 ;  but  his  maternal  uncle,  Nathaniel,  Lord  Crewe, 
Dishop  of  Durham,  purchased  his  estates,  and  bequeathed 
%liem  to  cliaritable  purposes.  He  died  in  1720.  Tlie  trustees 
under  his  will,  reside  here  in  turn,  and  at  their  own  expence. 
Archdeacon  Sharpe,  about  the  year  1757,  began  tlie  repairs 
mt  tile  castle,  on  which  he  expended  large  sums  out  of  his 
fiwn  purse.     Much  has  been  done  since  his  time ;  and  it  affords 

matter 


^S  KOltTHUMBERLAKD* 

matter  of  high  ^Ratification,    to    see    this   veneraMe 
gradoaUy  reclaimed  from  ruin,  and  converted  luto  apartmei 
for  the  most  wise  and  benevolent  uses.     A  large  room  is  fiti 
up  for  educating  the  boys  of  the  neighbourhood,  on  Dr.  Bell*s 
system.     A  suite  of  rooms  are  allotted  to  two  mistresses,  and 
twenty  poor  girls,   who,    from  tlieir  ninth  year»   are  lodged^ 
clothed,  and  educated,  till   they  be  fit  for  service.     Here 
is  a  market  for  meal  and  groceries,  which  are  sold  to  the 
at  prime  coat,  on  Tucficiays   and   Fridays*     Medicines  and 
•vice  are  given  at  the  infirmary  on  Wednesday*  and  Saturdays ; 
and,  in  IBIO*  1050  out-patients  were  admitted  to  its  benefit, 
and  thirty-six  inpatients ;  of  whom  tliirty-four  died,  eight  v 
fient  to  Newcastle  infirmary,  and  the  rest  either  cured  or 
lieved.     Various  signals  too  are  made  use  of,  to  warn  vessi 
in   thick   and   stormy  weather,  from    the   rocks   of  the   Fei 
Islands.     A  life-boat,   and  all  kinds  of   implements  usetul  i] 
saving  crews  and  tlieir  vessels  io  distress,  are  always  in  rea< 
ness;  also  beds  for  shipwrecked  ^lors ;  and  all  means  used 
prevent  wrecks  from  being  plundered,  and  for  restoring 
to  their  owners. 

The  town  of  Oamburgh  wa^;  once  of  considerable  important 
as  appears  from  the  Testa  de  Ncvill,  and  the  numerous 
sages  respecting  it  in  Madox's  History  of  iJie  Exchequer.     It 
gives  name  to  a  shire,  ward,  and  deanery;  sent  members 
the  parliament  in  1294";  contributed  a  ship  to  the  siege  of  Ci 
lais,  in  Edward  the  Third's  reign  ;  and  had  a  market,  now*  dii 
used.     Here  was  a  monastery  for  Austin  friars,    founded  in 
1137,  subordinate  to  Noslel  abbey,  vdued  by  Speed  at  124^^ 
15s,  7d,  granted,  in  151-5,  to  John  Forster,  whose  descendantlH 
had  a  seat  in  its  premises,  lately  pulled  down.     Also  a  monas- 
tery of  friars  preachers,  founded  by  Henry  the  Third,  in  1265, 
given  by  Queen  Elizabeth  to   Rcve  and  Pindar,  and  called,  b; 
Leland,  "  a  fayre  college,  a  little  without  the  town,  now  cl 
gone  down/*     St.  Mary  Magdalen's  hospital  was  licensed 
Edward  the  Second.     The  church  is  dedicated  to  St.  Aiden 

has 


NORTHUMBERLAND.  207 

has  a  cross-legged  figure  in  it,  called,  by  tradition.  Sir  Lance- 
lot du  Lake ;  monuments  of  the  Forsters ;  and  old  armour  sus- 
pended from  the  chancel  roof.  Lord  Crewe's  trustees  have 
lately  made  great  improvements  here,  by  building  cottages  on 
uniform  plans. 

In  this  neighbourhood,  at  Spindeston^  b  a  camp,  nearly 
round,  with  a  triple  ditch  and  rampart,  and  two  exploratory 
iiills  on  the  south,  and  one  on  the  north.  A  little  west  is 
another,  in  the  form  of  a  crescent,  triple  trenched,  and  with 
ramparts  pf  oncemented  stones.  There  is  a  ballad  called,  the 
Laidley  Worni^  of  SpindUston  Heughf  said  to  be  500  years  old, 
and  composed  by  Duncan  Frazier,  a  Cheviot  bard,  in  1270. 
The  camp  at  Out  Chester^  is  square,  and,  as  its  form  and  name 
indicate,  of  Roman  origin. 

Edderstone,  in  Bamburgh  parish,  was  the  seat  of  Sir  Tho- 
mas Forster,  Knight,  in  the  reign  of  Henry  the  Eighth,  and  of 
his  descendants,  till  the  year  1763,  when  it  went  into  the 
Bacon  family,  who  built  tlie  present  mansion,  and  sold  it 
lately  to  J.  Pratt,  Esq. 


BELFORD 

was  a  manor  of  the  barony  of  Wooler ;  and  after  male  issue 
failed  in  tlie  Muschamps,  was  held  in  medieties,  from  the  time 
of  Edward  the  First  to  the  tenth  of  Elizabeth,  by  the  families 
of  Graliani,  Iluntercombie,  Lylburne,  Meinells,  D*Arcy,  and 
Conyers.  The  Forsters  possessed  it  in  1638;  and  after  being 
sold  by  the  descendants  of  Abraham  Dixon,  Esq.  who  resided 
upon  it  in  17.>9,  it  was  lately  purchased  by  William  Clarke, 
Esq.  The  mansion-house'  was  built  from  designs  of  Payne  ; 
but  has  suffered  much  from  neglect.  The  chapel  is  parochial 
under  Bamburgh  ;  it  was  built  in  1700;  or  the  bells  hang,  as  in 
many  parts  of  Scotland,  on  a  frame  on  the  outside  of  the 
gable."     The  old  chapel  is  in  ruins  on  an   adjoining  hill     The 

town 


30B  NORTH0MBKRtAKt>. 

town  IS  small  y  but  pleasant ;  liajs  a  market  on  TuesdiiySy  and 
filirs  on  the  Tuesday  before  Whitsuntide,  and  the  23d  nf  Au- 
gust. **  A  mile  south-west  of  it  is  an  encampraent,  nearly 
'fequare,  with  a  wide  fosB  and  double  rampire,  the  entrance  on 
tiie  south*" 

KOTHBURY, 


in  the  oldest  rceords  concerning  it,  is  called  Robire^*  or  Ratli^ 

bury,  a  name  probably  derived  from  lis  being  thi  burying- 

I  -place  of  Rathf  or  Roth^  some  Dane  of  distinction.    There  Is  a 

'•large  Harrow  on  the  southern  margin  of  the  river,  opposite  the 

t'iown,  and  several  others  in  the  neighbourhood*     King  John 

enfeotfed  the  barons  of  Wlialton,  in  this  tnanor^  for  the  pa}*- 

ment  of  one  knight^s  fee.f      With  Warkworth  it  fell  to  tbc| 

CTOwn,   and   in   1330,  wos  granted  to    the  Percys,    and  en- 

iled  upon  their  male  posterity,  September  the  25th,  J:  15^2.1 
T!ie  church  is  in  the  form  of  a  cross,  and  contains  a  font 
%*ery  curious  workmanship.     Wilton   Totoer,   a  strong  ancientj 
building,  with  the  Humfran%'ille*5  arms  upon  ita  west  side,  iaJ 
the   rector's  mansion-      Sir    Ralph  Sadler  recommended  tbei 
**  parsonaige  of  Rothcberj*,  whiche  is  presently  in  the  hands  of 
one  of  the  prebendaries  of  Durcsme,  with  the  yerely  fee  of  | 
CC«  (2001.)  to  be  anexede  to  the  castill  of  Harbottell/*^    The 
I  inhabitants,  in  1201,  held  their  tmcn  of  the  crown,  and  paidi 
lines  like  Newcastle  and  Newburne.  |I     Leiand  calls  it  **  such  j 
^  toun  as  Corbrige/'     In  1801  tt  contained  only  66S  persons.. 
It  has  the  privilege  of  three  annual  fairs,  and  of  a  market  on  J 
Thursdays,  which  Inst,  with  free  forest  here,  and  certain  otlier^ 
franchises,  was  granted  lo  the  lords  of  the  manor  by  King 
l-John.    Its  situation  is  dry  and  salubrious,  on  which  account,^ 
fi«nd  for  its  goat's  milk,  it  is  much  resorted  to  by  valeludina-^ 

rianKv* 

•  Testa  de  Nev.  S31%  392.  f  Ibid* 

♦  Col,  ftcrage.  Vol.  VL  651,  J  Si.  Pap.  IL  15, 

II  Mado^*A  Birtxi.  Borog.  54. 


Hans.*  On  iKe  top  of  a  hill,  between  this  town  and  l^hrq^ton, 
it  a  circular  entrenchment,  with  a  tlouble  ditch  and  vaJlum, 
called  Old  Rothlury^  and  not  far  from  it^  in  a  sand-stone  rock, 
ii  ft  large  cave, 

Hepple  was  held  in  thenage,  by  the  annual  payment  of  fifty 
ihEJings,  by  the  ancestors  of  Wilham  Bardolf,  in  whose  time 
Kin^  John  changed  that  service  into  one  knight's  fee.  In 
Henry  the  Third's  time  it  belonged  to  •*  Joo  Taylleboys,"  and 
continued  in  his  family  till  about  the  year  1370,  when  it  i^ent 
to  the  Oglesy  and  from  that  period  had  the  same  revokition  of 
^pmesson  as  the  Bothal  barony,  till  the  late  Duke  of  Portland 
told  it  to  Sir  J,  B.  Riddelh  The  castle  or  tower  was  ex- 
Ct*edingly  strong,  but  its  remains  at  present  are  few.  West  of 
it  half  a  niile,  on  Kirk  Hill,  was  a  chapel  and  cemcieri/^  all  trace 
of  which  were  about  fifty  years  since  removed- 

Cartington  Castle,  in  early  times,  belonged  to  a  family 
of  its  own  name.  In  1502,  it  was  the  seat  of  Sir  Edward  Rat- 
diff,   and  aflerwarda  of  Edward  Widdrington,   who  raised  a 

Vol.  XIL  F  troop 

•  Jotm  Brown,  D,D.  w«  born  here,  m  1715,  aiid  edncaiiMl  it  St.  Jolin'i 

Collvi^,  Cuiibridg€.     He  wa^a  Canon  of  Cai'lisle^  and  an  acltve  vohuitcer 

I  the  rebeliioH,  in  1715,     He  \va*»  aUo  Vic;ir  of  IVIoiL-land  in  W' estniore- 

liad,  Bixf  ofLa^oobyp  in  CuniberlauJ  ;  aftorward^s  Ri.clor  of  Hfrksley,  lu 

Enex,  and  lastly^  in  1761,  Vicar  of  Nevfcaatle  upon  Tyne,  and  a  cUaplaiJi 

in  ordinary  to  the  kioj;.    IV  Emprr&s  of  Hn^sia  invited  him  to  assist  in 

ninflp  certain  reyiilationst  for  schools,  A:c.  iu  her  cniptrc  ;  but,  while  pre- 

ations  were  making  for  \m  voyai^e^  Le  died,  by  an  act  of  Mtieide,  at  hj» 

pniS%  in  Pall-MalJ,  LeiiJon,  September  tli«  ifSd,  1166,     He  publisked, 

^ia  1751,  Essays  cm -Slmfbbury's  Cbaracteriitics ;  in  1735,  tbc  tragedy  of 

BarbarovMt;  and,  in  tJie  ncjct  year,  llic  tragedy  of  Atfaebt'ii].    In  1757, 

*  appeared  his  Esiiniateof  tbe  Manner*  and  Principles  of  the  Times  ;  and,  in 

1766,  a  Letter  to  Dr.  Lowtb,  M'bo  had  alluded  to  liim,  as  one  of  Dr.  War- 

artoaiflattereri.    Amouj?  bis  works  aba  w»re  :  Ttie  Care  of  ♦Saol»  i 

^l^ocm  i  ITie  History  of  tlie  Rise  and  PjO|/rew  of  Poetry  aud  Music  ;  and 

Tbougbts  ©o  Civil  Lib«rty,  Licentiousness,  and  Faction. 

Binft,  BriL  Bjun^$  Netec,  I.  310. 


^\6  nohtiiumbealavi?. 

troop  of  horse  for  Charles  the  Firsit,  and  wa«  created  a  btroitti 
in  \i}^2f  but  had  his  estates  sequestered  by  parliament  in  165% 
Hla  daughter  and  cohtiiresn,  Lady  Charlton,  of  Hc^lieiide* 
founded  an  almshouse  here,  for  four  widows  of  the  Hani&n  ca- 
tholic persuaiion.  AAer  this  a  Talbot,  who  signalized  himael4j 
but  waK  killed*  at  the  siege  of  Buda,  had  this  estate*  His  8o9i 
John»  being  concerned  in  the  rebellion  m  1715,  Bad  from 
Chester.  Since  that  time  it  belonged  to  the  Alcocks,  of  Neiv^ 
castie*  The  mansion  is  strongly  built,  and  of  the  castellati 
IdimI. 

Adjoining  to  the  village  of  Haly&toxb  is  a  very  copious^ 
spring,  called  Our  Ladt/'s  IVell^  in  wliich,  as  some  say,* 
nus  baptized  a  great  multitude  of  8axoii5»  Here  also 
small  benedictine  nunnery,  founded  by  one  of  the  Humfran* 
ville's,  of  Ifarbottle  castle.  Henry  tlie  Third  confirmed  theii 
charters  in  125>K  Richard  Kellorsc,  Bishop  of  Durham,  umite 
the  church  of  Corsenside,  and  Horbottle  d]a|>e],  to  this  church 
and  nunnery ;  and  gave  th*j  advoirson  of  the  vicarage  to  Lc 
Richard  Humfranvillo*  Its  annual  revenues  at  tlie  diasolutioni 
according  to  iSpeed,  were  only  151.  IDs*  8d.  though  they  liad 
been  rated  in  the  Lincohi  taxation,  m  1291,  at  4*0i*  The 
church  has  been  much  larger  than  it  is  at  present.     V  u 

of  the  convent  *itill  appear  in  ihe  Mill  House ^  and  in  ot!  i- 

ings  in  the  village. 

HifcRBOTTLE  Castle,  with  the  franchise  of  Kedesdale,  wa 
given  in  1075,  to  Robert  de  Humfiauvilie,  Lord  of  Tours 
Vivan,  to  be  defended  by  the  same  sword  which  the  coni^ue 
wore  when  he  entered  Northimiberland.  Before  that  time 
belonged  to  Mildred,  the  son  of  Acman*  From  the  Hamfraii 
villes  it  was  inherited,  in  1438,  by  Walter  Talboys,  vv^iose  di 
scendant,  Sir  Walter,  forfeited  it  atler  the  hmh  of  Hexha 
It  was,  "  as  it  is  saide,  the  Lord  Talbusaes  inheretaacei 
gef en  the  prence  in  exchange,  for  that  it  was  so  aaeat  a  hfMtff^ 

for 


•  Btw  Lei.  If,  r.  (y. 


Cm*  the  serrice,  te."*  It  beloi^ed  to  the  crown,  in  15$7 1 
bttt  heing  granted  to  a  branch  of  the  Widdrington  family,  tiieir 
b^resi  carried  it  to  Sir  Thomas  Gascoigne,  who  sold  it  to  the 
Ciennels^  ks  present  possessors:  their  mansion  is  a  modem 
biiildiBgy  at  the  east  end  of  the  village.  In  U7S»  this  fortresi 
was  sacked  hy  the  Scots  ;t  after  which  it  was  rebuilt,  and  so 
strongly  fortified,  that  a  Scotch  army,  in  1296,  besieged  k 
two  days  in  vain ;  after  the  battle  of  Bannock  Bum,  however^ 
they  succeeded  more  to  their  wishes,  and  again  demolished  it. 
It  was  the  retirement  of  Queen  Margaret,  of  Scotland,  on  bar 
aecond  marriage  to  the  Earl  of  Angus,  and  here  was  bom,  in 
1518,  her  daughter  Margaret,  afterwards  married  to  tlie  Eail 
q£  Lenox.^  It  is  boldly  seated  on  the  southern  brink  of  the 
Coquet^  and  its  ruins  are  of  large  extent.  The  walls  of  the  gresH 
tower  have  an  odd  appearance,  parts  of  them  being  rent  asoi^ 
der  from  their  foundations,  and  overhanging  their  base ;  and 
other  parts  having  slidden  in  large  masses,  halfway  down  tke 
hill,  and  fixed  themselves  deep  in  the  earth. 

BiDBLKSTON,  the  Seat  of  Thomas  Selby,  Esq.  is  seated  at  the 
head  of  a  gradual  slope,  at  the  foot  of  Silvertoa,  a  high  greea- 
mountain,  and  one  of  the.  most  southern  of  the  chain  of  the 
Cheviots.  It  belonged  to  the  Vissards,  whom  Edward  the  Firsts 
on  account  of  their  treasonable  proceedings,  deprived  of  it,  in 
1272,  and  gave  to  Sir  Walter  de  Selby  "pro  bono  et  laudabili 
servitio."^  His  successor,  Sir  Walter,  was  governor  of  Liddle 
castle,  in  1342,  in  which  year  the  fortress  was  taken  by  Davidf 
King  of  Scots,  and  its  governor  beheaded.  This  family  wet 
also  possessed  of  the  barony  and  manor  of  Prend^lath,  on  thm 
opposite  border.  11  Their  seat  here  is  a  large  and  commodveos 
stone  edifice,  built  by  its  present  possessor. 

P   2  EDkLIKOHaM 

*  8irR.Sa(l.  St.  Pap.  ii.  15. 

t  Ridp.  Bord.  HUt.  p.  98.         t  Knighton  int.  x.  Scrip.  Aog.  col.  1  \i96, 

$  Original  Grant  at  Biddleston. 

I  Cliarter  in  Oatcihead  Vestry,  Dortiaiii. 


2\2 


kohtmumaerlakd. 


£DiiN'GffA>f  Castle,  with  several  other  possessionB^  i^a# 
held  by  John,  son  of  Walilcn,  of  the  barony  of  Earl  Patrick, 
for  one  soar  hawk,  or  sixpence**  It  was  the  seat  and  manor  of 
Sir  Roger  de  Hasting,  Ktit,  who  bore  a  captain's  commission, 
in  the  expedition  against  the  IVIoors,  in  1509.  In  the  tenth  of 
Elizabeth,  it  belonged  to  Thomas  Swinburne,  Esq. ;  but  heirg 
male  failing  in  his  descendant^,  in  the  reign  of  Charles  the  First 
it  went  by  marriage  to  the  Swinbumes  of  Capheaton,  its  presenfi^B 
owners.  The  castle  stands  near  the  head  of  a  narrow  valley,'^^ 
and  chiefly  consists  of  a  grey,  venerable  tower. 

Bolton  is  a  small  village,  on  the  north  side  of  the  Alne 
and  having  a  chapel  under  Edlingham :  but  it  is  only  of  not 
on  account  of  an  hospital^  founded  at  it  by  Robert  de  Re 
Baron  of  Wark,  **  to  support,"  as  his  charter  seta  forth,  "  \ 
master,  three  brethren,  three  chaplains,  and  thirteen  leproui 
laymen."     It   was  dedicated  to  "  the  blessed  Mary,  and  Sti 
Thomas  the  martyr,"   and  put  under  tlie  wardenship  of  thi 
Abbot  of  Kyval,  and  the  Prior  of  Kirkham.     It  was  well  en- 
dowed, and  at  the  dissolution  came,  with  this  manor  and  village 
to  the  Collingwoodfi  of  Eslington-     The  Earl  of  Sun^ey 
met  here  by  several  noblemen  and  gentlemen,  with  their  re 
tinues,    to  the  number  of   2^,000  men,  before   the  battle 
Hodden  Field^f 

Eglingham  is  tliename  of  a  parish  and  a  village,  and  in  15B1 
was  the  seat  and  manor  of  Luke  Ogle,  Esq.,  and  at  present 
his  descendant,  Ralph  Ogle,  Esq,     It  is  en\uroned  with  tnoort* 
Near  it  is  a  mineral  water,  described  by  Mr,  Cay,  in  the  Philo^ 
iiophical  Transactions  ;|  and  below  it  Kim-mere,  a  lake  stor 
with  pike  and  perch,  and  its  banks  abounding  with  the  mpica 
called  sweet  p^ah^  or  Dutch  myrtle. 

WiiiTTiKGHAM,     **  In  the  year  883,  Alfred  the  Great,  haiN- 
tug  slain  the  two  Danish  generals,  Hlnguar  and  Halden,  beg 


•  Tc*t.  de  Nev,  *e5. 


lK>BTH9MBBRLAIfSw 

to  cuhhrate  the  wastes  of  Northinnberliuid.^  At  that  ^ 
Cuthbert,  by  a  vision,  revealed  to  the  Abbot  Edred»  th 
Ushopy  and  all  the  En^Ush  and  Danes,  should  be  commanc 
Hfflsom  Guthred,  the  son  of  Ardecnute,  who  had  been  i 
slavery  to  a  widow,  at  Whittingham,  and  should  make  him 
of  Northumberland;  which  was  done,  and  he  reigned 
York,  but  Egbert  beyond  the  Tyne."*    This  village  wi 
ctendy  held  in  sergeancy  of  the  king,  by  dreogi^e  service' 
has  a  fair  on  the  twenty-fourth  of  August;  ijbs  church  is 
form,  old,  and  spacious ;  and4he  vale  jn  wl^cb  it  stands  u 
trembly  rich,  well  cullivated,  and  beauUiul. 

ELLINGTON,  a  i^eat  of  Sir  Thomas  Henry  OddeU^  B^ 
occupied  by  C.   W,   Bigg^t   E»q.,  stands  in  a  low^  ric 
•helterecl  gituationy  on  the  margm  of  the  Af  ne.     It  is  a  B|i 
mdjeie^gtmt  edifice,  of  poJisheid  feeorstone,  and  in  the  n 
style.    It  belonged  to  Alan  de  Eslington,  in  the  time  of 
the  Third,  of  whom  he  held  it  by  certain  local  services,  < 
species  of  sergeancy ;  from  this  family  it  passed  to  the  I 
rigges,  and  from  them  to  the  CoUmgwoods,  with  whom  it, 
tinued  from  the  sixteenth  to  the  dghteenth  century;  \ 
Colonel  George  Liddell,  a  younger  son  of  Sir  Thomas  Lidaeii, 
of  Ravensworth,  Bart,  bought  it  of  the  commissioners  for 
seUing  estates,  forfeited  in  the  rebellion,  in  1715,  and  lefl  it  to 
his  nephew,  Henry  Lord  Ravensworth. 

Callaly  was  the  seat  of  William  de  Callaly,  who  held  it 
and  Yetlington,  by  drengage  and  other  services,  of  Henry  the 
Third :  his  son  Gilbert  gave  them  to  Roger  Fitz-Roger,  Baron 
of  Warkworth  and  Clavering,  from  whom  they  have  been 
handed  down  to  his  lineal  descendant,  John  Clavermg,  Esqr 
their  present  possessor.  The  tower,  at  the  west  end  of  this 
mansion,  has  marks  of  high  antiquity;  that  on  the  east,  BOf^ 
the  centre  of  the  building,  are  modem.    The  dining  room  if 

P  3  forty* 

^  ChroD.  de  Mailrot,  p.  145.     Sim.  Dam.  col.  147. 
t  Test,  de  Nef.  389, 39S. 


2H  K9ftrHmffBEmirAin>« 

forty-five  feet  long,  and  twestj-five  feet  high,  elegantly  ttac^ 
coed,  and  has  a  music  gallery  at  each  end.  A  raivge  of  high 
roc^h  hills,  planted  up  their  sides,  and  brown  and  craggy  at 
their  heads,  sweep  before  the  southern  front,  at  the  distance  of 
kalf  a  mile. 

Near  Callaly  is  a  conical  hill,  called  Castle  Hiix;  ka 
top,  comprising  about  two  acres,  is  girt  by  a  high  wall,  and,  in 
die  weakest  phices,  by  a  fbss  seven  yards  deep,  hewn  out  of 
tlie  solid  rock,  and  fhnked  on  the  outside  with  a  wall.  Down 
the  western  brow  of  the  hill,  about  one  hundred  paces,  ^ 
another  strong  waU,  it»  ruins  measuring  seven  yards  and  a 
half  at  their  base.  The  whole  fortified  area  contains  nearly 
six  acres,  and  jb  difficult  of  access.  There  are  several  other 
andcnt  camps  in  this  neighbourhood. 

Glantox  Pike  is  also  a  oooical  exploratory  hill,  in  s^ht 
of  the  carious  circular  camps,  on  the  tops  of  Ciinch  HiU  and 
Ingram  HUL  Near  it,  at  Deer-street,  beside  Glanton  West* 
field,  were  found,  in  1716,  four  Hstvamsj  one  empty,  lh« 
other  containing  each  on  urn,  filled  with  fine  earth,  charcoal^ 
and  human  bones,  bearing  marks  of  fire:  also  near  them,  two 
more  urns  of  ordinary  pottery.  North  of  Glanton  West-field 
a  quarter  of  a  mile,  a  ccH^  of  the  old  mixed  brass,  well  pre* 
l^ervt^d,  ivas  turned  up,  ar.d  given  to  Mr.  Wallis.  By  the  side 
of  the  highnay,  ovor  Hedgloy  Moor,  is  a  square  stone  pillar, 
called  Percv'r  Crosjj,  embossed  with  the  arms  of  Percy  and 
Lucy,  and  sot  up  in  memory  of  Sir  Rulpfi  Percy,  ^who  was  slain 
here  by  Lord  Montaciile,  in  a  severe  skinnish,  in  1 4f»'^  before 
the  h:tttl^?  of  Hoxham.  Hw  dying  words  were,  *'  /  have  sav$d 
the  bird  in  vt//  brcfst ;"  meaning  his  faith  to  his  paity- 

Tho  ninnsioii  at  R  odd  am  was  built  by  the  late  Admiral 
Roddam,  on  the  scite  of  the  old  family  residence.  John 
M«j^y  ^^'^o  flourished  in  the  beginning  of  the  sixteenth  cen- 
iify,  mentions*  the  following  curious  grant,  as  ranch  admired 
Hr  Robert,  Duke  of  Alban} ,  for  its  brevity  : — 

**I  King 
•  Hist.  Brit  Ac.  p  265. 


NORTHUlOBlt&AVm.  Sid 

*<  I  Kimi  Athdfltuie 

Giffig  heir  to  Paulanc 

Odam  and  Rodam 

A  Is  grid  and  ab  fair 

Als  c?ir  tlta  myn  ware 

And  yair  to  Witnen  Maid  my  wyff." 

The  battle  of  Brunanhurch^  so  much  extolled  by  the  hk- 
torians  and  poets  of  that  age,  is  supposed  by  Camden  to  have 
been  fought  near  Broomridge,  a  mile  from  Ford  castle,  wher6 
are  the  lines  of  a  large  encampment ;  and  this  grant  may  have 
been  made  by  Athelstane,  in  consequence  of  services  there 
performed.  The  Testa-  de  Nevill,  mentions  this  manor  at  k 
member  of  the  barony  of  the  Earl  of  Dunbar ;  but  is  silent 
respecting  the  family,  though  their  names  occur  in  the  escheats 
for  the  year  1£64,  as  possessors  of  it.  They  were  a  warlike 
family.^  Leiand  calls  them  **  men  of  fair  landes  in  Northum- 
brelande,  about  Tylle  river,  ontyl  one  of  them  having  to  wife 
one  of  the  Umfraville  daughters,  killed  a  man  of  name,  and 
thereby  lost  the  principle  oi  dccc  markes  by  yere:  so  that 
at  this  time  Rodam,  or  otherwise  Rudham,  of  Northumbrelande, 
is  but  a  man  of  mene  lands." 

Near  Ilderton,  the  manor  and  seat  of  Sanderson  Ilderton^ 
Esq.,  and  of  his  ancestors,  since  the  time  of  Edward  the  First, 
is  Rosedon  Edge^  on  which  is  a  large  square  entrenchment ; 
and  in  sight  of  it,  three  miles  to  the  east,  on  Bewick  Hilly  is 
a  semicircular  camp,  its  chord  on  the  west,  guarded  by  an 
abrupt  declivity,  overlooking  the  plains  of  the  Bramish,  and 
its  arc  by  a  double  foss  and  vallum  ;  the  entrance  on  the  south' 
is  by  a  hollow  way,  hemmed  on  one  side  by  large  stones,  set 
edgewise  in  the  earth.  At  Haeriip'burn^  half  a  mile  farther  to 
the  east,  is  a  smaller  semicircular  camp,  a  kind  of  out-post  to 
Bewick  Hill.  Near  Three-stone  Bum,  north  of  Hedge-hope^ 
one  of  the  highest  of  the  Cheviot  mountains,  is  a  Druidioaf 

P  4.  Circle, 

•  See  Lei.  Colect.  and  Coll.  Peerage,  VI.  659. 


216  W&f  BUUSEilL  AN  P. 

Circle^  thirty-eight  yards  in  diamct^r^  and  formed  by  ten  large 
stones :  and  a  few  tnite$  south  of  this  place  is  Linhope'^pcmlf 
a  cataract  of  the  Brami&h,  that  falls  over  fifty-six  feet  of  poiot^ 
rocks. 

LtLBt/itsiK  1  owERy  *^  bosocned  high  in  tufted  trees/'  is  m 
grey  old  ruin,  on  the  north  side  of  a  brook  of  its  own  name ; 
near  it  are  remains  of  a  chapel.  It  was  the  seat  of  John  Ul- 
burne,  in  1234,  from  whose  stock  sprang  John  Lilburne,  a  tur- 
bulent enthusiast,  in  the  time  of  tlie  civil  wars*  In  latter  times 
it  belonged  to  the  Clcnnels ;  and  from  them  was  inlieritt;d  by 
Henr>'  Collingwood,  Esq  ,  whose  mansion,  a  neat  modem  build- 
ing, stands  OP  Uie  south  side  of  the  brook,  opposite  the  old 
lower.* 

Patrick,  Earl  of  Dunbar,  htld  tite  barony  of  Beakly  or 
Bengi^eya,  consbting  of  several  manors  and*  villages,  by  the 
service  of  his  being  for  them,  InOcrg^  and  Haitbofg^  between 
England  and  Scotland ;  "  tliat  is,**  says  Camden,  *'  if  I  under- 
stand rightly,  obliged  to  secure  and  protect  the  commuBica- 
tion  to  and  fro,  between  the  two  kingdoms.  For  the  Old  Eng- 
lish call  entrance  and  a  porch,  in  their  language,  luDOpOU/'^ 

Chillin'oh AM,  anciently  called  ChevcUngham,  was  held  of 
the  barony^  of  William  de  Vescy,  Uy  Robert  de  Muscamp ; 
and  afterwards  belonged  to  the  chief  of  the  noble  family  of 
Greys,  Barons  of  \\ark,  from  whom  it  was  inherited  by  tlie 
Earl  of  Tunkerville,  its  present  posscissor*  The  castle  was  re- 
built in  Elizabtth's  reign;  it  is  a  square  heavy  structure,  of 
four  stories  in  the  wings,  and  three  in  the  centre^  Here  is 
a  marble  chimney-piece,  in  sawing  which,  was  found  a  live  toad  ; 

the 


•  By  the  »kff  of  the  high  «wtf,  in  thin  ^ttmh,  wa«  a  limp  of  stones,  catl(^d 
til©  Afren  full  if  Sttme$^  aix4  a^cnbcit  to  tiri*  ilvvil  On  irnioviiit;  them  to 
mmd  ihc  roud,  tUey  i«fef«  foand  to  eovtr  llw  haw  and  framnciil»  «tm  rT»n*  » 
the  lirtM  i-in  ubi ,  iwiMvif  feel  in  diaiueler^  uimI  Iriviwg  four  rows  of  step^. 

Hcht.  Mtig.  1769,  p,  l^'J. 

i   i  Mr.   ^u  ,„^,^  ,  u,,,  of  the  Tttla  ilc  NeviU,  at  p.  :;9i,  Um  SUingburg^  tor  ] 
»'<  hgfuttg. 


I 


NOJtTttUMBERLAKD.  21T 

nidus  in  which  he  lay  has  been  plastered  up.  The  other 
partfwith  the  same  mark,  was  at  Horton  csustie.*  The  hes^ 
picturea  here  are  full  lengUi  portraits  of  Lords  Bacon^  Bui^- 
leigh,  and  Buckingham^  the  last  twa  gaudy,  and  portraits  of 
Charles  the  First,  and  James  the  Second.  The  park  is  ex- 
texuive,  and  contains  a  Jarge  herd  of  deer,  and  a  numeroui 
breed  of  wild  cattle^  called  the  White  Scoituh  Bhmi  /  "  Uiese 
are  of  a  middle  size,  have  very  long  leg9,  and  the  cows  are 
fine  homed ;  tlic  orbits  of  the  eyes,  and  Uie  tips  of  the  noses » 
are  black  ;  but  the  hulls  have  lost  the  manes  attributed  to  them 
by  Boethius,"f  They  are  very  shy,  wild,  swift,  and  savage. 
In  severe  winters  they  venture  to  visit  the  out-houseiii  in  search 
of  food* 

H  OR  TON  Ca&tjlb  Stands  in  a  bleak  and  naked  country.    It 

*vas  held  of  the  barony  of  William  Vescy,  by  William   Tuber- 

vUle,  by  half  a  knight^s  fee ;  and  afler  that  '^  for  many  ages 

was    the  porsesslon    of  a  branch  of  the  family  of  Grey»    of 

OhIlJingham.     Sir  John  Grey,  of  Horton,  going  into  the  war 

'  £j\  France,  with  King  Henry  tli^  Fifth,  took  by  storm  tlie  castle 

L^a|!»TankerviUe,  in  Normandy  ;  for  which  good  aervice  he  was 

«::!reatecl  Earl  of  Tankervillc,  and  Knight  of  tlie  Garter/*     The 

_^t:ivo  families  afterwards  became  united,  and  at  present  are  re- 

tT-^re^ented  by  Earl  Grey,  the  owner  of  this  castle, 

Wooi^KR,  or,  as  it  is  written  in  the  Testa  de  Nevill,  WiL- 
^^^ovE,  was  a  barany^  consisting  of  several  manorii,  and  given  to 
■^^OBERT  de  MuscAMp,  by  Henry  the  First,  to  be  held  by  the 
Eiymcnt  of  four  knight's  fees.  His  successor,  Kobert«  in  the 
iuie  of  Henry  the  Third,  was  the  most  powerful  baron  in  the 
i<Jrth,  but  his  name  expired  in  three  daughters,  co-heiresses, 
*ha  married  the  Earl  of  Struthern,  Odond  de  Ford,  and  Wid- 
er de  Huntere<ambe.  Aftcrwarda  we  find  the  families  of 
Hcuell,  Scrope,  d'Arc}'s,  and  Percys,  having  possessions  here, 
_^»^nd  from  the  laet  of  these*  the  manor  of  Wooler  passed  to  the 


« 


218 


iroRTtfUMt&RLAKD* 


GfejSf  and  from  them  is  inherited  by  the  Earl  of  T"^- 
Here  was  an  hoifpiialy  riedicated  to  St,  Mary  Magtia., 
on  a  round  hill,  near  the  town,  is  an  old  tmwr^  probably  iha 
ohatteau  fort  of  the  Mustcamps.  The  town  has  a  marbH  on 
Thundays,  and  fairs  tlie  tenth  of  May,  aiid  seventeeocJi  of 
October,  It  was  burnt  down  about  tiie  year  \  Vli^  and  ♦*  anMe 
fairer  out  of  its  aehes.*'  At  preaent,  however,  it  it  nearly  all 
thatched ;  and  though  it  begins  to  flourish,  baa  but  a  coM  ttOr 
cleanJy  appearance.  \t&  church  is  said  to  have  formerly  beett 
a  chapel  to  Fenton  church,  a  ruin  on  the  east  «ide  of  the  Till : 
it  waa  thatched  till  1765,  in  wfiich  year  it  was  rebuilt^  H« 
also  are  Hve  or  hix  dissenting  meeting-houses. 

In  ihU  neighbourhood  are  several  remarkable  cnirenchmtA 
and  cairns :  one  at  a  place  called  Cattlewell,  is  naoii^d  Maiden 
Cftsfle^  and  a  lar^^er.  Trodden  Gazes,  At  Humbled  on  bum*  a 
nule  north-east  iVotii  Woolcr,  is  Green  CnMle^  a  la'^gc  round 
eamp,  with  a  oairni  on  a  hill,  cut  in  lerrace§*  And  im  Red- 
rigs,  near  the  Toll-bar,  is  a  IVkmstone  PiHnr^  pointing  out  the 
•pot  where  Henry  Lord  Percy,  aod  George  Etirl  March,  in 
!S02,  defeated  10,000  Scola,  under  Earl  Douglaa. 

Yeveriko  is,  at  thtB  day,  an  lacomsiderable  Tillage,  on  tht 
south  side  of  the  river  Glen :  concerning  it,  aaya  St.  Bede, 
"  PaulinuB,  coming  with  King  Edwin,  and  hw  Qiieen  Ethel- 
btirga,  to  the  royal  villa,  called  Adgefrin^  abode  ther«  thirty- 
gix  i\iiy%  employed  in  catechising  and  baptizing ;  in  all  whic 
time  he  did  nothing,  from  morning  to  night,  but  instruct 
people,  who  flocked  to  him  from  all  the  tiilagefi  aiid  places, 
the  doctrine  of  Christ,  and  baptize  them  in  the  neighbouring 
river  Cilen.  This  villa  was  deserted  by  succeeding  kings,  and 
another  made  in  its  btead,  at  a  place  called  Machmu^  On  the 
south  side  of  Yevering  is  a  whinatone  column,  in  memory  of 

tlie 

•  Ecc.  Hist  L.  IL  c.  liv,  Marlmin  h  .snjipo^cti  to  have  be<*n  at  Mii> 
FIBY,D,  anilUbuilr  village,  »itaated  on  ilic  north  Mcleof  Mi  feld  Plaun^  where 
fjir  Williatn  Hiilnjcr  dt-tVated  a  party  of  Scots  by  the  Durhatn  force»,  before 
tlie  bftttte  ofFlodden* 


KOKTHUUBBHLAND.  HO 

Ae  battle  of  **  Geteringey"  fought  here  in  1414,  between  Ihe 
English,  under  Sir  Robert  Humfranville  and  the  Lord  Warden 
of  the  Marches,  and  a  strong  party  of  the  Scotch,  in  which  th* 
ktter  were  discomfited.* 

Above  this  village  rises  Ybvekikg  Bell,  a  green  Misshaped 
mountain,  two  thousand  perpendicular  f^  fVom  the  plain. 
Its  top  is  level,  and  girt  with  a  wall  of  large  whinstones,  en- 
closing an  area  of  above  sixteen  acres.  The  entrance  is  on 
tile  south.  In  the  east  side  of  it,  a  paved  way,  three  pacca 
broad,  and  thirty  yards  lone,  lends  to  a  low  circular  mount,  girl 
with  a  slight  wall,  one  hundred  and  eighty  paces  in  circunr* 
ference,  and  with  a  ditch  within ;  its  centre  is  crowned  with  k 
cairn  of  stones,  ten  paces  high,  the  middle  hollo^i',  and  six 
paces  from  brim  to  brim,  and  the  stones  beneath  it  calcined 
witii  fire.  The  sides  of  this  mountain  arc  scattered  with  cir- 
cular foundations  of  small  buildings,  such  as  arc  seen  by  th^ 
margin  of  the  higher  parts  of  the  Coquet,  and  through  all  the 
Cheviot  district.  South  of  the  Bell  half  a  mile,  is  a  cairn  cafleA 
Tim  Talhn^s  grave.  On  Newton  Tor,  a  very  high  hiH,  are  en- 
trenchments and  a  cairn ;  and  on  Haerhnoy  near  Mr.  Selby's  seiit^ 
at  Paston,  a  camp,  girt  with  a  round  double  rampire  and  fbfSw 

CoPBLAXD  Ca«tle  wfts  rebuilt,  in  1614,  by  George  Wal- 
lace, Esq.,  to  whose  family  it  belonged,  from  Edward  the  Se- 
cond's reign,  till  it  was  sold  in  the  last  century,  to  the  Ogles 
of  Kirkley.f  It  stands  on  the  north  brink  of  the  Glen. 
One  John  de  Copeland  was  amongst  the  twelve  English  knights, 
chosen  to  meet  the  Scotch  commissioners,  to  settle  the  certain 
border  disputes,  in  1249;  and  we  suspect,  that  the  celebrated 
Northumberland  Esquire,  John  de  Copeland,  was  of  this  famfly. 
He  took  David,  King  of  Scots,  prisoner,  in  the  battle  of  Dur» 
ham,  in  1347,  for  which  he  was  created  a  knight  haneret,  and 
had  5001.  a  year  settled  upon  himself  and  heirs.j: 

Foiin 
•  Hardin?,  c.  2l5f.  t  Walli**,  11.  480. 

t  Pryimc'8  4th  In!«t.  p.  345.  Lrj;»eA  IVfarufi,  p.  ?.n  Durn  nnd  Nicb.  Hfot. 
•f  Wectin.  and  Cuuuberl.  VoU  I.  p.  36. 


KORTHUMBERLAKO. 

Ford  was  the  seat  and  manor  of  Odonel  de  Ford,  in  \i 
and  by  him  held,  with  other  property  of  the  Muscamp  haron^i 
by    one   knight's   service.      His   heiress   married   Sir  WilUa 
Heroni  wliose  descendant,  Sir  WilJiam,  huilt  the  casik^  in  13S1 
and  obtained  a  royal  grant  of  a  weekly  market  and  an  annua 
fair  at  this  place,  and  also  liberty  of  free  warren  in  his  manora,^ 
Their  heiress  married  Thomas  Carr,  Esq.  of  Etal,  in  Queen 
Elizabeth^s  reign,  and  bis  heiress  Sir  Francis  Blake,  from  wboi 
it  wtnt   to  llie   Delavals.     In  Leland's  time  it  was  **  meadl 
strong,  but  in  decay."     It  was  rebuilt  by  the  late  Lord  Deli 
v&\  in  1761 ;  and  Is  at  present  the  seat  and  property  of  hit 
relict,  Lady  Del  aval. 

Robert  dtj  Maneriis  held  Ihthcd^  now  called  Etal,  of 
Muscamp  barony,  in  1272,  by  half  a  knight's  service-     Th 
castle  was  built  in  1340.     James  the  Fourth,  before  the  battli 
of  Plodden  Field,  took,  and  ruined  it.     Sir  Thomas  Manner 
Lord  Kos,    of  Eta],    was  created   Earl  of  Rutland  in   15S 
Lord  Wharton  made  this  place  the  residence  of  the  Deput 
Warden  of  the  Eaf^t  Marches,  in  1552.     In  Queen  Ehzabeth'i 
reign  it  belonged  to  Sir  Robert  Carr ;  and  by  marriage  of  th 
heiress  of  that  family,  in  1762,  it  went  to  the  Earl  af  Errol] 
whose  sister.  Lady  Augusta  Hay,    carried   it  to  the  Earl 
Glasgow,   its  present  possessor.     The  mansion  \&  an  clegan 
modern  structure,  6ncly  placed,  at  a  short  distance  from  th 
venerable  remains  of  the  old  castle. 

Pallinsburx  is  the  seat  of   George  Adam   Askew,  Esq 
The  country  about  it  is  remarkably  fertile,  and  thrown  by 
ture  into  a  thousand  hilts,  of  low  undulating  forms,  exquisitely 
beautiful.     Several  small  vessels  of  coarse  pottery,  and  a  tria 
gular  shape,  were  found  on  this  estate. 

In  Brankston  West-Held  is  a  rough  upright  column  of  basalt 
six  feet  seven  inches  high  ;  a  memorial  of  the  great  victory  ob- 
tained over  James  the  Fourth  by  the  Earl  of  Surrey,  on  tlic 
ninth  of  September,  1513.  This  battle  is  sometimes  called  th^ 
baUk  ^/'Branxton,  from  the  main  scene  oi  action  lying  near 

thai- 


MORTBUMBBRLAIIV*  281 

Aat  village;  but  commonly  the  battle  ^Fi^odden^  becauie  the 
Soots  were  encamped  on  Flodden  Hill,  and  from  thence  draim 
out  of  their  entrenchments  to  fight,  by  the  Earl  of  Surrey 
secretly  marching  through  the  narrow  defiles  about  Crookhamy 
and  catting  off  their  retreat.  Among  the  slain  was  the  Ardi- 
bish(^  of  St  Andrew's  and  two  bishc^,  four  abbots,  twdve, 
earls,  seyenteen  lords,  innumerable  knights  and  gentlemen, 
and  from  eight,  or,  as  some  say,  twelve  thousand  common 
The  English  only  lost  about  fifteen  hundred :  their  suo- 

I  was  attributed  to  their  artillery  and  bowmen.  King  James 
Ul  near  Branzton,  and  was  next  dMj  found  by  Lord  Dacre. 
On  the  highest  part  of  Flodden  Hill  is  a  natural  rock,  called 
tke  Kk^i  Chair^  whence  he  had  a  good  view  of  the  two  ar- 
■iies  and  the  country.  The  standards  and  ordnance  were  nest 
day  carried  to  EtaL  James's  corpse  was  embalmed  at  Berwick^ 
and  brought  to  En|^d,  and  buried  at  Sheene,  where,  at  the 
dissolution,  it  was  tumbled  into  a  lumber-room. .  His  swocd 
and  dagger  were  given  to  the  Herald's  College,  where  they  now 
are.  Surrey  deposited  the  Scotch  standards  in  Durham  Cathe- 
draL  As  Sir  Camaby  Haggeistmi's  workmen  were  digging  in 
Flodden  Field,  in  1810,  they  came  to  a  pit  filled  with  human 
bones,  and  which  seemed  of  great  extent ;  but,  alarmed  at  the 
sight,  they  immediately  filled  up  the  excavation,  and  proceeded 
no  fiuther.  A  fine  seal,  supposed  to  be  Roman,  was  found  here, 
and  was  in  the  possession  of  the  late  Countess  Cowper.* 

The  village  of  Werk  stands  on  the  margin  of  the  Tweed, 
and  chiefly  consists  of  a  miserable  cluster  of  thatclied  cottages, 
occupied  by  fishermen,  most  of  whom,  are  freeholders.  The 
Castle  here,  so  celebrated  in  the  border  annab,  is  completely 
ruined,  nothing  remaining  of  it  but  fragments  of  ashlar 
work,  near  its  foundations,  and  lines  of  its  moat.  It  stood  on  a. 
round  hill,  apparently  artificial.  Below  it  is  a  beautiful  terrace 
on  the  brink  of  the  river,  called  the  Maiden's  Walk.  The 
Kembf  or  outwork,  is  an  intrenchment  half  a  mile  long,  con- 
sisting 
*  Hon.  Bitt  Bon.  p.  75. 


mtmg  of  a  rampart  of  eorth  aiul  atonp,  and  «  ditch ;  it  ftil 
midde  and  western  extremity  are  small  mounts,  each  ddV  at 
die  tdp  with  a  trench ;  also  another  on  the  river  side :  and 
near  the  first  ruin*  of  SK  Gfhs^i  Chapel^  some  curious  grav*- 
dtonea.  Bat  lie  Place  is  on  the  sauth  side  of  th«  iiia&tk,  and 
opposite  it  Gnll0tiL*s  Hill^  which  is  terraced,  and  a  round  hiU, 
calletl  Gaiioios'/iiii'hiow,  The  harany  of  Werk  was  given  lo 
the  family  of  Ros,  Baroni  of  Helragley,  in  Yorkshire^  by  Henry 
the  Firsts  for  the  service  of  two  knight's  fees^^  and  was  in 
their  possession  till  1399;  but  in  the  next  year  was  found  to 
belong  to  Sir  Thoma*  Grey,  of  Hetion.  It  gave  title  of  baron, 
in  1622,  to  Sir  WiiHam  Grey,  who  died  in  1674,  and  wjw  suc- 
ceeded by  his  ^OHj  Ford  Grey,  who  was  created  Viscount  Glen- 
dale  and  Earl  of  Tankerville  in  1695,  which  titks  expired  with 
him  in  1701,  and  the  barony  with  hig  brother  Ralph,  in  1706; 
but  the  earldom  was  again  revived  in  his  niece's  huj»band» 
Charles  Be^nel,  Earl  of  Ossulton,  whose  great  grandson, 
Charles,  the  present  Earl  of  Tankerville,  succeeded  to  his  titl# 
in  1767. 

Though  Leland  asserts,  that  **  Henry  the  Second  caused  tho 
castell  ot  Werk  to  be  made/'  Richard  of  Hexham  fells  m, 
that  Carrunif  wluch  tlie  English  call  Werk,  was  taken  by  the 
Scots  in  1 3S6 ;  but  that  two  yean*  alter,  they  invested  it 
with  a  numerous  array,  and,  **^  cum  baluHt  el  machinu  mttkis  §** 
but,  after  three  weeks  assault*  were  forced  la  raise  the  sieg^, 
SdOA  after  they  made  a  similar  attempt  with  no  better  success; 
but  afterwards  returned  to  the  attack,  and  compelled  the  fa- 
mished garrison  to  capitulate.  Henry  the  Second  repaired  it  ? 
but  John,  ever  inconsistent,  burnt  it  down,  Henry  the  Third 
and  his  queen  resided  hcTe  in  August  and  September,  1^5 5 f 
and  were  met  by  the  King  of  Scotland  and  Queen  Margaret, 
fStkBiT  daughter,  f     Edward  the  First  strengthened  llie  garrison 

with 

*  Tcita  de  Nevil^  59^.  The  MugttA  Hrttaxmia  c6iifoiiud4  Oiii  phite 
Willi  Wark,  on  the  Nortli  Tync. 

♦  Ryni.  Ford,  L  561. 


NOBTHUlfBBRLA]^  SV 

with  1000  nitB»  oq  the  defectioD  of  Robert  de  Boi^  and  had 
bis  court  here  at  Easter,  1295.*  *'  The  Scottes,  in  1318,  caoM: 
into  Bo^and,  and  destroyed  the  castells  of  Wark  and  Har^. 
bottler"  In  1S41,  the  garrison  sallied  out  upon  the  reav  ef 
David  Brace's  army,  as  they  returned  from  ravaging  Dttrhaa^ 
and  took  160  horses  laden  with  q>oil ;  a  drcumstance  wUeh 
bwi^t  on  a  desperate  siege,  in  which  the  celebrated  Coimtese 
of  Salisbury  greatly  distinguished  herself:  Froisart  has  !»• 
lated  this  a£Eur  with  his  usual  minuteness  a^  gaUantry.  In 
1884  tba  castle  was  burnt  down,  but  soon  after  rebialt  i  and  ift 
1419  fotaken  by  the  Scots,  and  its  garrison  butchered  i  a  deed 
iriiich  the  English  revenged,  by  creeping  up  a  sewer  from  tb9 
Tireed  w$a  the  kitchen,  and  sheddmg  blood  for  blood.  In 
14^  it  again  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Scotch,  who  demia- 
lished  il»  After  being  repaired  by  the  Earl  of  Surrey,  it  was 
gaUaady  defcnded,  in  l52Si  against  4000  Scotch  and  Frenoh» 
wfaoottde  breaehes  in  the  waHs  with  cannon.  The  historiasp 
Rwdianani  who  was  present  at  this  siege,  describes  it  thuit 
*^  In  the  innermost  area  was  a  toirer  of  great  strength  and 
he%ht ;  this  was  encircled  by  two  walls^  the  ooter  indttdidg  n 
large  space^  into  which  the  inhabitants  of  the  county  used  to 
fly  with  their  cattle,  com,  and  flocks  in  time  of  war  i  the  inner 
of  much  smaller  extent,  but  fortified  more  strongly  with  walls 
and  towers.''  "  As  a  good  pece  of  its  wall  was  fallen  down  in 
1543,  one  Archan,  an  Italyan,  was  employed  to  repair  it."f 
The  work  was  commenced  on  the  twelfth  of  February,  and 
finished  on  the  tenth  of  November,  in  the  same  year»  and  cost 
1864L  16fc  7d.j: 

At  Bngham^  near  Wark,  was  heUl  the  great  oonvention  Sdt 
settleaMnt  of  the  tendis  for  the  Holy  War,  demanded  by  Henrjr 
fibe  Second,  in  1 188%  Hugb^  Bkhop  d  Dorbam,  appeared  #■ 
Henry's  part»  and  was  met  by  WiUiam  the  Second  of  Scotland^ 

with 
•  Prymn^  4tb  Inst.  3S7. 
t  Lodgt's  lUuit  of  Brit  Hiit.  I.  50.  t  BocDean  MS.  68S6.  18. 


KORTHOMHItltLAin?. 

With  \m  bishops  and  barons,  who  rejected  the  demand  witli  the 
utmost  contertipt, 

LKAHMoLrru  was  Cormerly  a  considerable  ▼illage,  as  appears 
by  the  foundations  of  Frnnll  cottages,  and  a  negJected  burial 
ground.  It  had  a  market,  but  at  present  consists  onlj  of  one 
farm-houfJc,  In  a  marl-pit  near  it,  fourteen  feet  deep,  we 
found  large  stag's  boms,  and  an  oak  paddle,  such  as  the  Soull 
tea  iRiunderR  use. 

At  rAHiiAM  was  formerly  an  abbey  of  btack-cunons,  subo 
dinate  to  Kirkluim,  in  Yorkshire.     William  Wallace,  whose  en* 
canipment  gave  name  to  the  (ie)d  adjoining  it»  burnt  it  down 
1995,     It  SI  nil  hot,  according  to  the  Lincoln  Taxation,  was 
lowed   thirteen   pounds  a  year.     The   church   stands  sweetl 
among  fine  trees,  on  the  edge  of  the  Tweed :  hnt  the  village  i 
Miall  luid  dirty*     The  English,  under  Sir  John  Ltlburne,  we 
•everdy  defeated  here  in   1S70.     There  was  "  a  little  tower  < 
defence  here  against  the  Scots,'*  in  Leland's  time.     CAnttAl 
}lAl»t,  the  seat  of  Anthony  Compton,  Esq.  is  a  handsome  mi 
j|im   structure,    about  whicli  great  improvements  have  bee 

de   by  planting.     His   estate   here   was  purchased   by  Iii 
grandfather  of  the  Forstcrs,     There  is  a  ruined  chapel,  with 
neglected  burial  ground ,  at  Mindrum, 


NORHAMSHIRE 

11  the  name  of  a  district,  having  the  sarae  bounds  as  the  parii 
of  Norham,    which,    in    1801,    contained    3584   inhabitant 
NoniiAM  was  anciently  called  XJblmnfbrd.     King  Bgfrid  buil 
a  church  at  it,  and  honoured  it  with  the  remains  of  Leolwulf, 
whom  St.  Bede  dedicated  his  Church  Histor}' :  he  was  the  fir 
of  our  kings  who  retired  from  a  crown  to  a  monastery.     After" 
the   second   descent    of   the    Danes     upon    Lindisfarne,    St, 
Cuthbcrt*s  body  rested  here  till  the  time  of  King  Ethelred. 

The 


irORTHUMBERLAMK'  StS5 

The  churdi  had  three  chantries  in  it:  only  the  middle  aisle  of 
it  is  standing.    In  some  old  foundations  at  its  east  end,  a  stone, 
with  curious  inscriptions,  and  the  effigies  of  Su  Peter,  St  Cuth- 
beit,  and  King  Ceolwulf,  its  patrons,  was  discovered.    The 
auile  stands  on  a  high  rock,  on  the  brink  of  the  Tweed.    It 
was  built  by  Bishop  Frambard,  in  1 121 ;  but  the  Scots,  under 
Xing  Daridy  in  11 38,  took  and  destroyed  it    Hugh  Pudsqr 
soon  after  rebuilt  it,  particularly  the  great  tomtTf  which  is  still 
standing :  the  crown  took  it  from  the  see  of  Durham  durii^ 
part  of  his  prelacy.    Kings  John  and  William,  had  four  con£b* 
fences  here :  one  of  them  respecting  a  castle  at  Tweedmoutb, 
which  John  had  twice  attempted  to  build,  but  which  the  Lion 
as  often  destroyed.    Alexander  the  Second,  after  investing  it 
f<Hty  days  with  a  mighty  army,  in  1216,  was  obliged  to  raise 
the  siege.    Edward  the  First  resided  here,  and  held  a  confe- 
rence with  the  nobility  and  clergy  of  Scotland ;  and  afterwards 
called  a  parliament,  in  1291,  on  Uplington  Green,  on  the  op- 
posite side  of  the  Tweed,  to  settle  his  claim  to  Scotland,  pn 
the  death  of  Margaret  of  Norway:   after  this,  John  Baliol 
swore  fealty  to  him  in  this  castle.    It  was  twice  besi^ed  by 
the  Scots  in  Edward  the  Second's  reign,  and  at  length  taken ; 
but  recovered  in  1322.    In  the  night  of  Edward  the  Third's 
coronation  it  was  unsuccessfully  assaulted,  but  forced  by  storm 
in  the  next  year.     Bishop  Fox  put  it  into  good  repair ;  but  it 
suffered  much  in  the  siege  immediately  before  the  battle  of 
Flodden  Field.     In   Henry  the  Eiglith's  reign  it  was  again 
taken ;  but  recovered  by  Franklin,  Archdeacon  of  Durham. 

Bishop  Tunstal  repaired  it  in  the  reign  of  Queen  Mary.  Cam- 
den had  his  information  respecting  it  from  Dr.  George  Charl- 
ton,* who  was  bom  here  whilst  his  father  was  keeper  of  the 

Vol.  XII.  Q  castle. 

*  He  was  educated  by  Bernard  Gilpin,  whose  life  he  wrote ;  admitted 
of  8t  Edmund's  Hall,  Oxford,  in  1576 ;  one  of  the  four  English  divines 
sent  to  the  council  of  Dort ;  Bishop  of  Landaff,  in  1618 ;  and  Bishop  of 
Cfiichester,  in  1619,  where  he  died  in  16«8.  He  wrote  abo,  A  lliaakfol 
Remembrance  of  God*s  Merry,  and  A  Confotation  of  Judical  Astrology. 


I 


I 


iATflUMBERLilKD. 

C7i5tlc.     *'  U  Ts  fortified/*  says  f 

outer  iTJill,  which  is  of  great  compass,  were  many  little  towen* 

in  the  angle  next  the  river ;  within  is  anotiier  circular  wall, 

much  stronger,    in  the  centre  whereof  rises  si  loftier  tower: 

hut  the  cMaMishetl  peace  of  our  age  long  suffered  tills  castle^ 

though  on  the  border,  to  run  to  decay.'*     "  U  is,'*  says  Sir 

Ualph  Sadler,  **  the  most  convenient  place  of  service  for  the 

warden  of  ihcstc  march  to  lye  at,  having  thereunto  annexct  all 

that  tltc  hdllf  revennewes  pcrtcyninge,  and  belonging  to  the 

HJde  castell,  witliein  Elande  Shire  and  Norhume  Shire,  as  tliey 

Ctiuie  to  the  hande$  of  the  late  Bishoppe  of  Duresme  with  the 

yerely  fee  of  one  poundc  by  the  yere.*'     After  Bi&liop  Barnes 

Alienated  it  from  his  see.  Queen  Elizabeth  granted  it,  with  all 

the  tythes  atul  demesne*,  to  the  Earl  of  Monmouth,  who  sold 

ihcm  for  600(fl*  and  the  furniture  of  the  castle  for  SOOh  to 

Cicorgt*  Hume,  Earl  ot'  Dunbar.     The  Fenwicks  of  Lcmhtgtont 

N  MNAt  nciir  WhitUngham,  sold  the  castle  to  Mr*  Alder,  who 

d^midished  the  outworks,  and  then  demised  it  to  Sir  Fnmeis 

BKike,  BarL      The  manor  belongs  to  Sir  Camaby  Hagger- 

stone. 

TwixKLL  Castlb,  a  seat  of  Sir  Francis  Blake,  Is  best 
Y  tewed  from  the  bridge*  It  has  been  near  forty  years  in  build- 
hig,  and  has  no  floors  laid  yct«  Though  at  present  it  is  five 
storiet  high,  it  b  intended  to  be  iifleen  feet  higher,  and  to  be 
hnishid  with  fif\ecn-feet  turrets  at  the  corners.  The  Till  runs 
in  tVont  of  it,  under  a  bold  rock,  which  is  finely  fringed  with 
wood,  and  adds  much  to  the  interest  of  tlie  castle.  This  place 
held  in  soccage  tenure  of  the  Mitford  baroas  by  Alida  de 
frrley,  in  1 272;  in  1329,  it  belonged  to  Sir  William  Riddell ; 
mid  WHS  afterwards  for  several  descents  in  the  Selby  family,  a 
lady  of  i^hich,  in  tlic  sixteenth  century,  built  the  bridge  here, 
grhich  is  nearly  senii-clrcular,  ninety  feel  ainl  a  half  in  span,  and 
rty*six  feet  high  from  the  battlement :  below  it  is  a  fine  pe- 
trifying fountain;  and  farther  down,  the  ruins  of  TUmauth 
CkapcU  where  wns  till  lately  ^*  a  stone  boat  of  as  fine  a  shape 

na 


KORTItUMBEBLAND.  f^7 

afi  a  boat  of  wood,     St,  Cuthbert  is  reported  to  have  sailed  in 
it  down  the  Tweed,  from  Melross  to  tliis  chapel.     It  is  ten  feet 
long  within,  three  feet  and  a  half  in  diameter,  eighteen  inches 
tleep,  and  four  Inches  and  a  half  thick.***      "  Tlie  vicnr  of 
Tillemouth,**  says  Leland,  **  did  write  an  hhtorle,  thus  inti- 
tuled,  Hixtoria  Arirea^  wherein  is  much  to  be  seene  of  Kinge 
'William  Con<jueror's  cuming  yn  to  England*"     Tillmouth 
XIousE  is  also  a  seat  of  Sir  Francis  Blake.     It  contains  an  ex- 
:r4*llcnt  collection  of  pictures.     It  belonged  to  Jurdan  Riddel  I 
in  12T2;  and  afterwards  to  the  Claverings,  far  many  genera- 
•^ions.     Near   Tillmouth  Cross  is  a  square  canip,  called  Haltf 
^^kcsiers* 

Hetok,  in  Edward  the  First's  reign,  belonged  to  Willijm 
t3e  Eton ;  and,  in  the  next  reign,  to  Sk  Thomas  Grey,  captain 
^^z^f  NcMrham  Castle.  Sir  .Tolin  Grey^  of  Eyioo,  In  1420,  was 
^^aced  with  the  order  of  St.  George,  or  the  Garter  ;f  and 
^•^  rora  him  the  estate  descended  to  the  present  Earl  of  Tai»ker» 
"^fc^ille.  The  c/tstle  was  a  strong  and  beautiful  structure,  nearly 
^'*=^<|uarc.  At  the  south-west  corner  was  the  Lion*i  court  and 
io\^*er;  and  on  the  north  side^  a  vault,  in  which  l(K)  horse 
Flight  stand.  The  great  Scotch  army,  in  151 S,  besieged  it  in 
•  ain.  It  Is  now  quite  in  ruins. 
'Cpr\*itill  is  a  small  village,  with  a  good  inn,  and  an  old 
of  the  Collingwoods,  of  Lilburne.  In  1549,  the  Scots 
"^fcook  a  strong  old  house,  called  the  Castle  of  Cornhilh  On  the 
"^^jrink  of  the  Tweed,  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  bridge,  are 
"^iraccs  of  a  fort,  trenched  round,  and  called  Cadle  Stone^XicL 
^•ji  1751,  in  pulling  down  the  chapel,  was  found  a  stone  ^'ofEn, 
aut  eight  feet  long,  in  which  were  two  urns,  of  coarse  pot* 
jr,  and  the  sfmnk-bones  and  scull  of  a  person  of  great  siise. 
To  a  wood,  a  little  south  of  Cornhiil,  is  a  fine  mineral  spring, 
Ibrmerty  much  resorted  to;  and  in  tlie  Belds  beyond  it,  on  each 
«de  of  the  Kelso  road,  are  a  series  of  works,  consisting  of  ter- 
races^ conical  hills,  and  basins  o£  water,  which  are  altogether 

Q  2  so 

•  Walli*,  IL  450.  t  Heylm>  Hist,  of  St.  Geo.  p.  3<55, 


~"^».  uigh 


in  NORTHUMBERLAND. 

80  destitute  of  every  thing  like  military  strength,  and  so  finely 
executed,  as  to  make  us  believe  they  have  been  of  an  agricul- 
tural nature ;  perhap6  the  gardens  of  some  peaceful  monarch,  in 
an  obscure  period  of  the  historjr  of  our  country.  Their  east  end 
extends  to  the  medicinal  spring,  which  was  probably  once  connect- 
6d  with  them.  Josephus  intimates,  that  much  of  the  husbandry 
of  the  Jews  was  of  this  nature.  The  terraces  near  Branxton, 
mentioned  by  Pennant,  are  perhaps  of  a  similar  kind. 


ISLANDSfflRE. 

Opposite  to  the  mouth  of  the  brook  Lindis,  lies  Lindis- 
#ARNE,  called  by  the  Britains,  Inis  Medieante^  and  by  the 
English,  Hofy  Island^  from  being  the  residence,  of  several  of 
the  fathers  of  the  Saxon  chwch.  Fahretty  in  Celtic,  means 
a  recess.  King  Oswald,  in  635,  made  it  a  bishop's  see ;  and 
Aiden,  a  Scotchman,  its  first  prelate.  The  church  was  en- 
larged in  652;  but,  "  more  Scottonim,"  only  made  of  timber, 
And  thatched.  Eadberct,  who  was  bishop  about  ten  years,  and 
died  in  698,  took  off  the  thatch,  and  covered  all  the  roof  and 
walls  with  sheets  of  lead.  In  793,  the  Danes  made  their  first 
descent  here ;  and  their  second,  in  875,  in  the  episcopacy  of 
Eardulf,  the  seventeenth,  and  last  of  its  bishops.  Dreading  tlic 
visits  of  these  pagan  barbarians,  Eardulf,  with  Eadred,  the 
ilbbot  of  the  monastery,  and  the  inhabitants  of  the  island,  took 
up  the  body  of  St.  Cuthbert,  and  the  most  valuable  of  their 
relics  and  sacred  utensils,  and  lefl  it  to  the  fury  of  the  in- 
vaders. After  wandering  about  from  one  hiding-place  to  an- 
other, for  the  space  of  seven  years,  they  at  last  settled  at 
Chester-le-Street,  where  eight  bishops  presided,  before  the 
final  removal  of  the  see  to  Durham. 

**  67.  Cuthbert y  who  from  a  poor  shepherd  became  monk  of 
Melros  fifteen  years,  was  prior  here  twelve  more,  when  he  re- 
tired to  the  Fame  Island ;  from  whence  he  was  caUed  to  this 

see. 


KOftTHUMBERLAXD.  22^ 

cee,  which  he  only  hdd  two  year^^  and  returned  to  Km  retire 
zneiit ;  where  he  died,  and  was  buried  at  tile  east  end  oF  his 
<iratoryi  where  hia  stone  coffin  is  still  shewn.  Hi&  body  wa3 
^oirnd  fresh  eleven  years  after  his  death.***  Sl  Bede  wrote 
liis  life,  both  in  prose  and  verse.  Ui&  Icgejui  is  long,  and  un- 
c'Ofnmonly  rich  in  the  raarvellous :  a  very  curious  manuscript 
-copy  ot*  it  IB  in  the  possession  of  John  Thompson,  Eijq*  o^ 
UorthumberUnd  Street,  Newcastle. 

**  The  montuitefy   here,  occasionally  mentioned,  of  Aidau*^ 

foundation^  w;i3  under  the  government  of  the  bishops.     The 

abbot  and  moaka  were  the  cathedral  clergy.     The  cathedral* 

and  the  neiglibouring  village  of  Fenham  and  church  of  Nor- 

haiDv  with  other  possessions,  were  given  by  William  de  Cari- 

iephot  to  the  monastery  of  Durham  i  to  which  the  cell  of  Bo* 

nedictine  monks,    at  this  place,  was  then  made  subordinate; 

itg    annual    revenues,    in    1534,    are  valued    by    Dugdnle   at 

481,  18s.  Ikh  and  by  Speed  at  GOh  5«.     In  154-1,  they  were 

g^ranted  to  the  Dean  and  Chapter  of  DuHiam^  in  whose  posses^ 

•ioD  they  now  are.** 

The  church  of  the  monastery  is  in  ruins.   Its  north  and  south 

rail  is  standing,  though  much  out  of  perpendicular ;  great  part 

^>f  the  west  remains,  but  the  east  is  fallen.     All  the  arches  are 

^^Ircular,  except  two  iu  the  chancel,  and  one  in  the  north  aisle  ; 

ft^ut  these,  as  well  as  a  pointed  arch  over  the  north  aisle,  built 

^:%iiderneath  with  a  semi -circular  arch,  seem  to  be  more  modern 

the  rest.     All  the  roof,  both  of  the  church  and  chancel, 

been  arched*     The  columns  of  tlie  nave  are  of  four  sorti, 

twelve  feet  high,  and  five  feet  in  diameter,  massy,  and  richer 

%.haEi  those  of  Durham ;  the  bases  and  capitals  plain.     Over  each 

^^reh  are  large  windows,  in  pairs,  separated  by  a  sh<tt't  column  ; 

^md  over  these  are  smaller  arches.     One  of  the  diagonal  ribs  of 

Ihe  arch,  that    supported   the  tower,  is  still   standing,  richly 

wrought  with  8axon  zigzag ;  as  is  also  the  we;«tern  door,  and 

aeveral  other  arches.     The  length  of  tiie  body  is  138  feet,  its 

breadth 
#  Goai^h*^  Camd.  III.  7  Id. 


i 


ithfl 


^^^^        >RT»UMB£RLAXO. 

breadth  eiglileeu  feet^  and,  with  the  two  aisles^  thii1y<&ix 
hut  it  may  be  doubted  whether  there  ever  \vas  a  transept, 
stones  appear  red  \^'ith  tirei  and,  on  the  south  side  of  the  chan- 
cel, are  eaten  by  the  weather  into  the  scmbhince  of  honey^ 
comb.     Mr.  Selby,  to  whom  it  belongs,  has  lately  repaired  ihll 
weakest  parts  of  the  walls.     On  the  south  side  of  it,  are  the 
ains  of  the  priory  and  offices ;  tlic  inside  of  their  walls,  built 
of  whinstone,  obtained  from  tlie  rock,  which  forms  a  high  na- 
tural pier  on  the  south  side  of  the  island.     West  of  it  is   the 
pamh  churchy  a  phdn,  but  spacious  Gothic  ediHce ;  ita  archeg^ 
on  one  side,  semi-circular ;  on  the  other  pointed ;  the  windows 
long  and  narrow ;  and  the  chancel  walls  of  polished  frt:estonei 
whitewashed.     East  of  the  ruins  is  the  pedestid  of  St,  Cuth4 
bert'«  Cross,  anciently  held  in  high  veneration ;  and  ut  present 
called  the  Pdting^ione;  marriages  are  thought  un fortunate, whe 
a  new-made  bride,  on  attempting,  cannot  step  the  length  of  it.^ 
The  entrocJn  found  here,  are  called  St.   Cuthbert*s  bciids ;  and 
said  to  be  made  by  him  in  the  night. 

The  iiiland  is  two  miles  from  the  main  land,  and,  as  in  Bedel 
time,  accessible  to  all  kinds  of  conveyance  at  low  water,  thougl 
the  sands  are  diutgerous  to  persons  not  acquainted  with  then 
It  is  nine  miles  round,  and  contains  1,020  acres,  nearly  half 
which  is  sand  banks  :  on  the  north-east  a  spit  oi  luud  runs  out 
a  mile  long,  and  in  places  not  more  than  sixty  yards  broad, 
where  the  tide  may  be  seen  ebbing  on  the  east  and  flowing  oii||^^ 
the  west :  in  Camden's  time,  tins  part,  ns  it  is  now,  was  left  t0^^ 
rabbits*     The  soil   is   rich  ;    but,  before  the  inclosure  of  the 
common,  in   1792,  only  forty  acres  of  it  was  in  tillage,  and 
that  subject  to  inturcommonage  as  soon   as   the   crops   weri^M 
reaped*     The  rental  of  the  whole  island  was,  in   1790,  320},^^" 
in  1797,  9'2Gl.     Between  the   town  and  the  castle  there  is  a 
small  harbour.     The  toxm  is  on  the  west  side,  and,  tu  179 
contained  379  persons,  most  of  whom  are  employed  in  fishing 
It  has  Ibrmcrly  been  much  larger,  as  tlie  names  and  ruins 
H'vcrnl  streets  testify.      The  casltc  is  mentioned  by  Camdet 


NOaTIIUMBERLANXK  S3l 

It  Stands  upon  a  lofly  whinstonc  rock,  on  the  south-east  corner. 
In  l^^^,  his  majesty  expressed  his  pleasure  "  with  the  repayr- 
ing  of  the  blocke  house  in  the  Holy  Island."  *  William  Heede 
was  captain  of  this  and  the  Fame  Island,  in  1 559 ;  the  monthly 
expeuce  of  the  garrisons  of  which,  at  that  time,  was  28L  48.  8d,;t^ 
Parliament  garrisoned  it  as  a  ''  place  of  consequence  to  the 
northern  parts,"  in  1646;  and,  in  1715,  onelltocelot  Erring- 
ton,  in  a  romantic  manner,  seized  it  for  the  Pretender.  A 
garrison,  from  Berwick,  is  kept  in  it  at  present. 

The  parish  of  Holy  Island  is  also  called  Islandshire  ;  it 
contains  the  chapclries  of  Kyloe,  Lowick,  Ancoofl,  and  Tweed- 
mouth  ;  and,  in  all  civil  matters,  is  included  in  the  county  of 
Durham.  **  At  Kiley,  primis  annis  Hehrici  viii.  not  far  from 
Norham,  in  the  lordship  of  the  Bishop  of  Durham,  was  found, 
betwixt  two  stones,  bokels  of  an  arming  girdle,  typpe  and 
barres  of  the  same,  of  pure  gold ;  a  pornel,  and  crosse,  for  a 
sword  of  gold ;  bokels  and  typps  of  gold,  for  spurs.  D.  Ru- 
thall  had  some  of  them."  ^ 

Haggerston,  is  the  6eat  of  Sir  Carnaby  Haggerston,  B^rt. 
and  of  his  ancestors,  since  the  time  of  Edward  the  First.^ 
Tliomas,  who  was  a  colonel  in  the  Northumberland  regiment, 
in  the  civil  wars,  was  created  a  baronet  in  1643.  The  mansion 
house  stands  in  a  thick  grove :  the  oldest  part  is  a  foiver^  to 
which  two  additions  have  been  made,  and  in  which  Edward  the 
Second  received  the  homage  of  Thomas,  Earl  of  I^ancaster, 
for  the  earldom  of  Lincoln,  in  1311.  Hard  by  are  ruins  of  an 
old  Chapel. 

TwEEDMouTH  is  a  considerable  village,  on  the  north  side  of 
the  Tweed,  opposite  to  Berwick.     It  has  a  chapel  belonging  to 
the  establishment,    and   a   Presbyterian   meeting-house.      All 
traces  of  the  castle  King  John  attempted  to  build  here,  are  obli- 
terated, 
•  Lodge's  niiMt.  of  Brit.  Hist.  V.  I.  p.  50. 

t  Sadler's  St.  Papers,  Vol.  I.  p.  C. 
t  Lei.  VII.  71.  ^  Test,  dc  Nev.  p.  r,3. 


temtttd*     In  1275,  icvcrnJ  tnonltf, 
<l(*)mtatinn  f^f  thv  Scotch  nobility  here, 
rroachtricnti  curnplained  of  by  tlie  Btsiiofi  af 
lioffpitAJ,  which  Mood  herc%  gave  name  to 
cirtiichcd  from  IVecrfinouth,  hut  in  the  mm 
popiihition  of  whichp    in   1801,    amotinted  m 
Keur  rhc  Spltt«il  I*  a  fine  niinenil  Bpriug,  otAe 


BERWICK  UPON  TWFED. 

Hector  Rocthhix  rcbtcn  iin  improbabk  talc 

King  of  Soothindt  being  tJikcn  pnaoner  here  by  Uk  I 

makcH  thix  the  himhng  plncc  of  the  Danes,  tmikr  Iin 

S6T>*     King  Edgar  gave  it,  with  Coldingbom,  to  liie  ctardbl 

of  Durham ;  but  Hishop  I'lambard  forfeited  it :  sa  ttym 

lingjihcad ;  but  it>i  nanu*  doe»  not  occur  in  Edg«r^ 

In  Alexander'a  rcfgn  it  had  a  church,  and  was  one  of  ^tmjmr 

b^rotighx  for  holdin/?  courts  of  trade,  in  David's  time.     Witli 

the  ftcljacent  country,  it  was  laid  in  rushes,  in  ]  173;  aiH)^  in  the 

fblltming  year»  Earl  Duncau  rekindled  it^  embers,  aod  btftdt- 

ercd  itif  inhalHtairl5*      Ilrnry  the  Second  received  its  caslic 

9§  part  of  the  ph^lgr  for  the  ranflom  of  King  Witliaoi,  and 

Itrengthcned  it»  rortif)cation8  ;  |:  but   Richard  the  First  restored 

it.     King  John,  and  hia  Hutar^i  ravaged  it  horribl}-,  with  fire 

and  Rword*     Edward  the  First,  in    1201,  held  a  convention  of 

the  states  of  England  and  Scotland  here,  respecting  the  claim 

to  the  Scott tjih  crown  ;  and,  in  the  following  year,  in  the  great 

hall  of  the  cattle,  decided  in   lialiors  favour ;  but  that  prince 

breaking  hU  Oath,  Berwick  became  an  object  of  Edward's  \*cn* 

gcmicc,    and  waa  most  unmercifully  sacked.     In   1296,    the 

EogUsb 
•  Lib.  10.  f  Smidi*8  Iktle,  p.  760. 

J  Bromton,  |089,  1167.    In  Ymag;.  Hint.  .S8i.  Diccto,  oBU    M.  Pam 
$ny^  Bearjr  obtniocd  it  in  pn-jittuvm  iHH3id(ndtt, 


VORTHUMBBELAVD.  2S^ 

JBoglifth  king,  says  Knigbtooy  fortified  it  with  a  wall  and  a  foup 
and  in  the  same  year  received  the  homage  of  the  scotch  noU- 
iity  here,  on  the  twenty-fourth  of  August,  before  an  English 
parliament.  The  town,  in  1297,  was  taken  by  Sir  William 
Wallace,  through  neglect  of  Cressingham,  its  governor  ;  but  the 
castle  held  out,  and  after  a  long  assault,  was  relieved  by  a 
large  army  of  horse :  Wallace  about  eight  years  after  this  was 
betrayed,  and  half  of  his  body  exposed  upon  Berwick-bridge. 
The  Countess  of  Buchan,  for  crowning  Robert  Bruce  at  Sc<me^ 
was  shut  up  here  in  a  wooden  cage,  in  the  shape  of  a  cn>wo« 
and  ordered  to  be  attended  by  two  English  women :  she  lived 
in  it  six  years,  and  was  then  released.  Edward  the  Second 
and  his  queen  wintered  at  Berwick*  in  1310 ;  and  two  years  after, 
Robert  Bruce  made  an  unfortunate  attempt  to  obtain  it  by  a 
scalade  in  the  night.  The  English  King  assembled  his  army 
here  before  the  battle  of  Bannockburn ;  and,  three  days  after 
it,  issued  a  proclamation  from  hence  respecting  his  privy  seal, 
which  had  been  lost  in  that  sanguinary  conflict.  Peter  Spalding 
betrayed  this  place  into  the  hands  of  Robert  Bruce  in  1318  : 
many  attempts  were  made  to  recover  it,  which  was  not  effected 
till  the  day  after  the  battle  of  Halledon-Hill  in  1333.  Edward 
the  Third  was  here  in  1335  ;  with  a  great  army,  in  1340  ;  and 
the  year  after,  at  Easter,  held  a  tournament ;  but,  in  his  absence 
in  France,  in  November  1353,  the  Scots  surprized  and  took 
the  town  :  the  castle,  under  the  renowned  Sir  John  Copelandi 
held  out  till  Edward,  on  the  14th  of  February  following,  arrived 
Vol.  Xir.  Q*  "  with 

*  Berwick,  or  Befipic,  in  Doomsday-bookj  and  in  the  old  language  of  oar 
country,  has  nearly  the  same  signification,  as  grange,  granary,  and  barn, 
meaning  a  place  for  laying  up  the  produce  of  a  farm  during  winter.  Bere, 
te  this  day  is  a  provincial  name  of  barley,  the  liquor  of  which  is  called  bear, 
Ingulphus  says,  that  Berwick  is  equivalent  to  manor.  Some  derive  it  from  the 
Celtic  word  aber,  water ;  others  fVom  Bniicta,  as  if  it  had  been  a  principal 
town  of  that  kingdom  ;  and  others  from  bare,  as  descriptive  of  the  nakedness 
•fits  sitvatioB.     Wic  is  the  same  as  Ffcus,  dwelling,  town,  or  village. 


^94  irOBTHIIMB»X.4V  O. 

wUb  A  great  armyy  and  forced  Ihe  Scotcb  to  capitulate.  Sereii 
^cotcbmeOf  id  1S77»  ioipri»ed  the  cattle,  and  bdd  it  eight 
days  agaioat  7000  archers  and  3000  cavalry.  The  depotj^ 
g^temor,  under  the  £arl  of  Northumberlandy  betrayed  it  into 
the  eoeiny't  baudt  io  1384  ;  but  the  eail  by  meoacea  and  bribery 
#000  after  recovered  it:  thb  high  spirited  lord,  however* 
through  tlie  solicitation  of  his  uncle  the  Earl  of  Worcester,  en- 
g^g^ig  in  the  rebellioo  against  Henry  the  Fourth,  in  1406,  em- 
ployed this,  amongst  other  fortresses,  against  thr  king  ;  but  a 
eaooon-shoty^  the  first  that  was  ever  fired  in  England,  so  alarmed 
the  garrison,  that  it  iounediateiy  surrendered.  An  unsuccessful 
attempt  was  made  to  reduce  it  in  142^  ;  but,  after  the  battle 
of  Towion,  in  14599  it  was  agsin  in  the  hands  of  the  Soots, 
who  strengthened  its  walls  at  great  expenoa,  and  held  it  till 
1489,  when  it  again  came  into  possession  of  the  English,  in 
whose  hands  it  has  ever  since  continued.  **  From  that  time," 
says  Camden,  "  the  kings  c^  England  hava  continualiy  added 
works  to  it,  particularly  queen  Eliaabeth,  who  lately,  to  the 
terror  of  the  enemy,  and  security  of  the  townspeople,  con- 
tracted the  circuit  of  the  walls,  drawing  vriihin  the  old 
ones  a  very  high  wall,  well  built  of  strong  stone,  surround- 
ed by  a  deep  ditch,  a  regular  rampart,  redoubt,  counter- 
scarps, and  covered  ways,  so  that  the  form  and  strength  of  the 
Cortifications  are  sufficient  to  discourage  all  hopes  of  carrying  it 
by  assault,  not  to  mention  the  bravery  of  the  garrison,  and  the 
stores  in  the  place  which  exceed  belief."  In  1559  the  garrison 
consisted  of  only  2000  men,  which,  according  to  Lord  Trea- 
surer  Cecil's  opinion,  should  be  increased  to  3  or  4(KX)  more  ; 

"  and, 

*  Waltuogluun  and  SjJieed  relate  that  his  altQH  wm  of  a  large  tiae«  and  de- 
molished great  part  oi  a  tower.  lu  the  ipring  of  IBU,  a  ball  of  cast  iron, 
weighing  ninety'tis  pounds,  was  found  in  a  partof  tberuinjof  thecasl]e«  whkh 
aoawert  well  lo  WaUingham's  account.  It  had  penetr«ted  the  caaile  wall 
about  three  yards,  at  a  place  where  it  was  flanked  with  a  tower,  wliach  of  courte 
must  have  been  first  penetrated^  and  of  whick  tktm  are  nfficieiit  reouuaf  to 
ascertain  this  fact. 


**  and,  if  it  should  come  to  a  siegei  10,000  w  ill  scantly  sulHce/* 
Accordingly  we  find  orders  for  sending  2000  additional  men 
limber  in  November  1559;  and,  a  month  after,  for  2000 
mote*.  From  the  year  176'l  to  1770  the  walU  were  almost 
tntirely  rebuilt  io  many  partft,  particularly  the  quay* walls  and 
gates,  together  with  the  saluting  battery  :  tbey  were  completely 
finished  in  l7S5,t  A  modern  writer  an  ibe  fortifications  says: 
'*  Berwick  was regakrly  fortified  in  the  old  Spanisb  and  Italian 
style,  in  the  reign  of  Queen  Mary,  and  has  five  demi-rivetted 
bastbns  with  double  retired  fiauks,  casemates,  and  cavaliers; 
but  the  ditch  is  very  shallow,  and  has  never  been  ri vetted, 
or  the  counterfort  is  now  niioed  and  obliterated.  Tlie  ruins  of 
the  ancient  Scots  fonilications  are  still  observable.  But  in  the 
present  art  of  war,  no  fortifications  around  this  place  could 
ever  be  important^  as  it  is  every  where  closely  surrounded  by 
commanding  eniLuences;  and  hollow  ways  reach  almost  up  to 
tbe   walls  forming  nature!  approaches." { 

The  Governor  of  Berwick  hcis  an  annual  salary  of  $S6}, 
7ffp  Id.  M is  house  makes  the  north  eatst  hide  of  an  imperfect 
square  called  the  Palace,  The  barrackii  measure  2l7  by  121 
feci  in  the  inside ;  and  contain  24  rooms  for  otHcerSi  and  72 
rooms  adapted   to  bold  567  privates. 

The  CituRcu  of  this  town  is  a  peculiar  of  the  dean  and 
cihapter  of  Durham.  Jt  stands  on  the  north  side  of  a  fine  area 
called  the  parade*  Joan,  sister  of  Edward  111.  was  married 
lere,  in  1328,  to  David,  son  of  King  Robert  Bruce.  In  iGhl^ 
Ibe  corporation  procured  a  brief  to  collect  money  for  rebuilding 
it ;  the  work  was  cornmeuced  in  l642  and  was  finished  in  l662, 
under  the  direction  of  Colonel  George  Fenwick  of  Urinkburne. 
It  cost  1400L  According  to  the  fashion  of  the  times,  in  which  It 
^as  buiU|  it  has  no  steeple,  U  is  ninely  feet  eight  inches  long,  and 

♦Q  2  fifty- 


«  Ssd.SL  PftpJ.  589«  601,  658. 
f  FuUer*»  Bcr«vick«  p.  555. 
I  £diub.  Eucjclop. 


236 


VORTHUMBBELAND* 


fifly*two  feet  six  incbes  broad,  and  consists  of  three  aisles,  und 
several  gallenes,  all  handaomely  pewed  :  the  external  architec- 
ture, though  beloDgiog  to  no  definite  order,  is  extremely  pleasing 
and  approaches  nearly  to  elegance.  The  Mercer's  Company 
in  London,  founded  a  lectureship  here,  ai  at  Hexham.  ^H 

The  Rdigioiu  Houses  here  never  made  any  remarkable  figur€^^ 
David  the  First,  king  of  Scotland,  founded   in  Berwick,  a  coQ« 
vent  for  CUtcriian  Num ;    and   Robert  the   Third,    in   1391^ 
granted    its   revenues  to   Dry  burgh   Abbey.      The  convent 
Carmeiitcs  originated  in  the  munificence  of  Sir  John  Grey,   ii 
1270  ;  they  officiated  tn  the  King's  Chapel  in  the  castle.     The 
Scotch  king,  in  1230,  brought  hither  a  convent  of  Dominkam^^^ 
which  Edward  the  Tliird  removed.     The  Trinitaria/is  are  said^^ 
by  Lei  and,  to  have  been  dissolved  by  Bishop  Beck  ;  but  men- 
tion occurs  of  their  house,  in   1327»  as  founded  '*  pro  miuistro 
et  fratribus  sauctae  Trtnitatispo/f^fs  Berwici/'     The  Frnncisatns 
also  had  a    house,    here,    to   which    Edward   the    Third,    ia 
1338,  confirmed  a  grant  of   twenty  marks  a  year;    and*  be- 
tween the  sea  and  the  town,  In  Maudlin- (ield,  stood  the  hospital 
and  free  chapel  of  Si,  Mary  Magdalen^  menliontsd  in  the  escheats 
for  Northumberland,  in  1:^66:  it  had  a  hospital  or  hermitage 
belonging  to  it,  at  a  place  calif  d  Srgeden, 

Queen  Ellzabedi  founded   a  Free-Schooi  here,  and   placed 
under  the  patronage  of  the  Guild,     A  charity-school  was  built 
in  1725,  in  which  twenty  boys  and   six  girls  aru  cloathed  &<^4^H 
educated.      The   Corporation    also  lately  erected    a  spaciooi^H 
building,  consisting  of  offices  and   five   schoolrooms :  one  for 
mathematics,   another  for  writing,  and  the  rest  for  reading* 

The  Bridge  of  Berwick  was  swept  away  by  a  flood  in  1 199,* 
concerning  which  Leland  says,  *'   it  brake  with  great  force  of 
water,  bycause  the  arches  were  to  low  ;  and  after  the  makio^^H 
of  iU  as  it  was  then,  it  durid  scars  IX  yeres.'*     It  was  re-edifierf 
of  wood,  of  which  material  it  consisted   till  the  time  of  James 

Oie 


*  UovedoD,  p.  796, 


KORTHUMBERLAVD.  t5f 

^be  First,  who  commenced  the  present  elegant  stractare  of 
Atone.  It  has  fifteen  arches ;  its  whole  length  being  388  yai^ 
and  its  breadth  seventeen  feet.  It  was  twenty-four  years,  four 
Toon^tSf  imd  four  days  in  building,  and  finished  on  the  twen^« 
fonrtli  of  October,  l6d4.  It  was  built  by  Mr.  James  Barren 
and  -Lancelot  Branxton,  and  cost  government  the  sum  of 
14^9^1-  Is*  £d«  The  10,0001.  paid  to  the  crown  for  coofima* 
ikm  of  the  will  of  Thomas  Sutton,  founder  of  the  Charter* 
Houae,  was  also  applied  towards  rebuilding  this  edifice. 

The  T<mm  Hall  was  bailt  by  Joseph  Dodd,  architect,  in  175I< 
On  its  ground  fioor,  on  the  east  side,  is  a  piassa,  called  Umi 
£achange  ;  and  opposite  it,  are  cells  for  criminals,  and  shops.  Tfao 
second  door  consists  of  two  spacious  halls  and  other  apartroeots. 
The  outer  hall  measures  sixty  feet  by  thirty-one,  and  is  used  for 
holding  courts  and  guilds.  The  inner  hall  is  47  feet  long  aadl 
33  feet  broad,  and  occasionally  occupied  at  assemblies  aadl 
public  entertainments.  The  upper  story  is  the  common  gaol  of 
the  town.  The  roof  is  covered  with  slate  and  lead,  and  the 
whole  edifice  elegantly  finished  by  a  turret  150  leet  high,  aad 
coBtainiog  eight  musical  bells. 

CoKPOEATioN. — Berwick  appears  to  have  been  one  of  thm 
original  four  Scotch  burghs.  Its  first  charter  was  granted  bf 
Edward  the  First,  who  required  its  Mayor  to  be  sworn  before 
his  Chancellor,  Treasurer,  and  Barons  of  the  Exchequer  of 
Scotland.*  The  seal  of  the  corporation  is  a  bear  standing  upoa 
a  tree,  with  this  inscription  :  Sigillum  dmi  Henrici  dei  gra. 
reg.  Angliae  et  Francis  &  dmi  Hibernise  de  terra  sua  ultra 
tuedmT  The  corporation  were  first  summoned  to  send  mem- 
bers to  parliament  in  the  latter  end  of  the  reign  of  Edward 
the  Fourth,  from  which  time,  to  the  first  of  Edward  the  Sixth* 
the  returns  are  all  lost,  except  an  imperfect  bundle  of  the  thirty- 
third  of  Henry  the  Eighth.    The  last  charter  of  this  town  was 

granted 

*  Burrow's  Reports. 


f3t 


irORXnUMBERLAir] 


graoted  b^  James  the  Flni  and  saucttoned  by  parliament  in  tbe 
Uni  year  of  hh  reign.  The  present  corporation  cooaista  oC  m 
mmyOTf  recorder,  town  clerk »  and  four  bai tiffs ;  and  also  of  a 
corptver,  four  Serjeants  al  mace,  and  a  water-bailiff.  The  mayor 
ia  also  escheator  in  tbe  borough*  clerk  of  tbe  market,  and  a 
juttice  of  the  peact ;  the  other  justfces  of  tbe  town  being  tbe 
recorder,  and  lucli  resident  burgesses  as  have  sustained  tiie 
afRceof  mayor.  They  are  lords  of  the  manor  of  Tweed  mouth, 
where  they  hold  a  courl-leel  and  court^baron  Iwice  a  year# 
Their  revenues,  which  arise  from  duties  laken  at  the  quay  and 
gates,  from  ballast  quay  daes,  and  other  sources,  seldom  exceed 
70001.  a-year.  ^M 

Tbe   population  of  this  town,  in    1801*  amounted  to  7187^™ 
Its  charter  secures  the  right  of  weekly  markets  on  Wednesdays 
and  Saturdays,  the  latter  of  which  is  well  supplied.     Its  fair  it 
on  the  Friday  in  Trinity  week«  ^^ 

Exclusive  of  the  trade  in  S  tlmon,  great  quantities  of  coi^H 
and  eggs  are  exported  here  for  London.  The  foreign  commerce^ 
even  in  the  best  of  times,  was  never  ex  tensive,  not  more  than 
4J45  tons  of  skipping,  having  annually  delivered  cargoes  here 
0f»  an  average  of  lour  years,  ending  in  17^4.  In  1800  tbe  port 
bikd  belonging  to  it  ^1  vessels,  equal  to  5,399  ^o^s.  Tbe  bar* 
Ibotir,  if  I  several  places,  abounds  with  low,  dangerous  rocks  ; 
at  its  month,  a  nobte  pier  is  at  present  const ructtng  on  the  site 
of  an  old  one,  built  by  Queen  Elisiabetb,  but  lung  since  de- 
stroyed. 

The  most  remarkable  objects  of  antiquity  Ibis  town  at  pre* 
sent  affords,  are  the  exlemive  ruins  of  the  Caff/f,  once  a  place 
of  high  importance,  but  now  almost  levelled  with  tbe  ground  ; 
and,  about  400  yards  north  of  it,  a  pentagonal  lower,  called  tbe 
B€U  Tower f  having  its  name  from  containing  a  bell,  which  was 
rung  at  the  approach  of  an  enemy.  ^m 

In  digging  a  cellar  on  Hidebill,  in  1770,  the  clay  was  fouo^H 
idtinrntely  mixed  with  quicksilver:  a  piece  of  it  tbesiseof  an 
egg,  produced  a  iea-spoonftal.     Tbe  place  where  it  was  found  is 

t>  muc 


KORTttUMBEALASO. 


tS9 


mtKh  huih  upon,  a  ciroumstaoce  which  hus  prevented  far tlier 

It  may  not  be  ambs  to  subjoin  here  the  account  formerly 
given  o(  the  bordrrers,  who  live  round  about  this  pluce,  liy 
^fieas  Sylvius,  afterwards  Pope  Pius  IL  who  lived  in  Scotland 
a  private  Jegnle  about  1 1^-18,  in  his  life,  written  by  htmsttif,  aod 
published  under  another's  nanie,^  as  they  are  nat  at  nU  aitcfeds 
*  There  u  a  river/  (llic  Tweed)  '  which,  spreading  ilsejf  ftgm 
a  Kigti  mountain,  parts  the  twa  kingdoms,  y€i»eiis  haviag 
crofftcd  this  in  a  boat,  and  arriving  about  sun-s6t  at  a  large 
village,  went  to  the  bouse  of  a  peasant,  and  there  supped  with 
the  priest  of  the  place,  and  his  ho%u  The  table  was  pleutifuMjr 
spread  with  large  quantities  of  pulse,  poultry,  and  geese*  but 
neither  wine  nor  bread  was  to  be  found  there,  and  all  the  peo* 
pie  of  the  town,  both  men  and  women,  flocked  about  him  as  to 
some  new  sight,  andi  as  we  gaze  at  negroes  or  Indians,  so  did 
they  stare  at  iEneas,  asking  the  priest  wberw  he  came  from* 
what  he  came  about,  and  whether  be  was  a  Cbrisiian.  iEneas* 
undefBtandiog  the  difficulties  be  must  expect  on  this  journey^ 
had  taken  care  to  provide  himself  at  a  certain  monastery  with 
tome  loaves,  and  a  measure  of  red  wine,  at  sight  of  whicli 
they  were  seised  with  greater  astonishment,  having  never  seea 
wine  or  \vhite  bread.  Women  with  child  came  up  to  the  table 
with  their  husbands,  and,  after  band  ling  the  bread  and  smelling 
at  tlte  wine,  begged  some  of  each,  so  that  it  was  impossible  to 
void  distributing  the  whole  among  them.  The  supper  lasting 
111  the  second  hour  of  the  night,  the  priest  and  host,  with  alt 
the  men  and  children,  mado  the  ben  of  their  way  off,  and  left 
^neas.  They  said  they  were  going  to  a  tower  a  great  way  off 
for  fear  of  the  Scoti,  who,  when  the  tide  was  out,  would  come 
over  the  river  and  plunder ;  nor  could  ihey^  with  all  his  en- 
treaties, by  any  means  be  prevailed  on  to  take  ^^neas  with 
themj  nor  any  of  the  women,  though  many  of  them  were  young 

and 

*  Coatoientftriei  of  Piui  IL  published  uujer  the  n%m^  uf  J«ha  Gebdihi 


240  NORTHUMBERLAND. 

and  bandsome ;  for  they  think  them  in  no  danger  from  an  enemy, 
not  considering  violence  offered  to  women  as  any  barm,  ^neas^ 
therefore,  remained  alone  with  them  with  two  servants,  and  a 
guide,  and  100  women,  wbomade  a  circle  round  the  fire,  and 
sat  the  rest  of  the  nigbt  without  sleeping,  dressing  hemp  and 
chatting  with  the  interpreter.  Nigbt  was  now  far  advanced > 
fiben  a  great  noise  was  beard  by  the  barking  of  dogs,  and  scream- 
iogof  the  geiese,  all  the  women  made  the  best  of  their  way  off, 
the  guide  getting  away  with  the  rest,  and  there  was  as  much 
confusion,  as  if  the  enemy  was  at  hand,  ^neas  thought  it 
sore  prudent  to  wait  the  event  in  bis  bed*room  (which  hap* 
fcned  to  be  a  stable>  apprehending  if  be  went  out  be  might 
Bustake  bis  way,  and  be  robbed  by  the  first  he  met.  And  soon 
liltec  the  women  came  back  with  the  interpreter,  and  reported 
tbere  was  no  danger ;  for  it  was  a  party  of  friends  and  not  of 
tnemies  that  were  come.*'' 

*  Camdeiu 


LVD   OF    NORTHUMBSaLAlTB. 


NOTTINGHAMSraRE. 


XJ.  AS  been  noticed  by  Tanom  writers  to  have  a  peculiarity 

in  its  geographical  situation,  not  possessed  by  any  other  county 
in  the  kingdom;  that  of  being  boumled  by  four  entire  shires 
only,  00  the  four  cardinal  points,  and  without  being  cut  or 
intersected  by  detached  portions  of  other  counties.  These 
bordering  counties  are,  Yorkshire  on  the  North,  Lincolnshire 
on  the  East,  on  the  South  Leicestershire,  and  Derbyshire  on 
the  West :  with  which  latter  connty  it  was  united  under  one 
sherifl^  until  the  lOlh  year  uf  Elizabeth.  Its  Bgure  is  rather 
elliptical ;  its  transverse  diameter  extending  from  Alkley  or 
Finningley  in  the  north  to  Stanford  upon  Soar  on  the  Leices- 
tershire border,  being  fifty  miles;  whilst  its  conjugate  or  shortest 
diameter  from  Tevershall  on  the  Derbyshire  border,  to  Col- 
^  lizkgham  which  joins  to  Lincolnshire,  may  be  estimated  at 
lwcnty*&ix,  or  twenty-seven.  Its  latitude  extends  from  fifty - 
two  degrees  fifty  minutes,  to  filly-three  degrees,  thirty-four 
minutes  norih ',  its  circumference  is  estimated  at  upwards  of  i 
one  hundred  and  forty  miles ;  and  its  superficial  content  at 
480,000  acres,     its 

Djvisiovis  consist  of  six  hundreds  or  wapentakes,  including 
Dine  market  towns  and  one  hundred  and  sixty  parishes;  in 
which  the  tillages  have  been  estimated  at  four  hundred  and 
fifty»  but  this  must  of  course  include  the  smallest  hamlets. 

Vol,  Xn.  A  North 


I 


NoitTH  ut  ThEnt  there  are  now  three  xsapcniakes,  though 
these  at  the  time  of  the  conqucrtir^s  survey  were /re  iti  number. 
BaoxTON  has  undtrgone  no  change  since  that  perio<l.  Thur- 
G4IIT0N  U  now  Thurgarion  a  Lee,  or  Lythe,  the  ancient 
hunJrerl  of  Z*j/f/o  being  joineil  with  it;  BASisETLAw  contain* 
the  ancient  butKlred  of  OaxLaideheck,  which  now  fnrins  the 
north  clay  diyision ;  and  having  also  the  south  clay  and  Hat- 
held  dtYisions  15  considered  as  being  equal  to  three  hundreds. 

South  of  Trent  there  are  the  three  wapentakes  of  Rl  siu 
cLtPF,  BiNGU  sM,  or  Binghamshore,  and  Newark;  but  the&tv 
though  nominally  equal  to  one  half  the  county,  do  not  conUiin 
quite  one  third  of  its  superficies. 

It  has  been  said  that  in  the  ii'^ual  division  of  the  county^  the 
hundreds  of  Busnettaw  and  Newark  are  equal  to  the  other 
four,  if  the  town  of  Kotlinghani  is  left  out  of  the  calculation  j 
and  we  must  not  omit  another  mode  of  division  which  has  long 
ext!ited,  drawn  from  the  nature  of  the  soil ;  for  the  western  dis- 
trict is  calltti  the  Sand,  and  the  eastern  part  of  the  county  is 
dcMgnated  by  the  appellation  of  the  Clay,  The  first  of  these 
is  in  general  woody  or  barren;  the  latter  highly  fertile  both 
as  arable  and  pusture^  and  again  subdivided  into  the  north  and 
south  clays.     In  the 

HisTouY  of  this  county,  very  little  is  known  of  its  ancient 
state,  except  that  it  formed  a  portion  of  the  settlemenu  of  the 
Coritani,  as  the  l^oinans  called  its  aboriginal  inhabitants.  In 
common  with  the  rest  of  the  island^  it  became  the  prey  of  the 
Roman  Eagle,  and  had  several  Colonies  of  that  entcrprizing 
people,  as  is  evident  not  only  from  hii^tory,  but  also  from  vari* 
ous  antiquliies  discovered  at  dinercnl  times,  and  from  thetr 
roads  of  which  condderahlo  vestiges  still  remain  leading  to  and 
from  their  difterent  stations.  After  the  evacuation  of  the 
island  by  the  Roman  arms,  the  invading  Saxons  adopted  a  new 
mode  of  division,  and  this  county  became  part  of  the  kingdom  of 
Sfercla;  and  even  after  the  union  of  the  Saxon  heptarchy 
liiulcr  One  monarch,  was  siill  gorcroed  by  the  Earls  of  rh^K  name; 
1  At 


KOTTlNGBAMSillltB. 


At  the  cotHjucst,  the  same  change<i  took  place  here,  as  in 
other  counties  ^  and  iti  subsequent  history  is  too  closely  con- 
nected with  that  of  the  kingdom  at  large,  to  require  any 
furthet  elucidation,  except  in  some  few  points  which  will  lie 
best  tre'«ited  of|  under  their  respective  heads*  This  county 
ontains  but  few 

BtttTisH  ANTiQDiTtEs;  yet  we  must  not  neglect  to  mention 

an  ancient  camp  at  Barton  about  four  miles  S.  W.  of  Notting- 

»m,  which  Aubrey  seems  to  have   examined,  and  which  he 

onsiders  as  of   British   workmanship*      It   has   indeed   been 

illed  British  Hill;  but  now  Breni'i  HiU :  and  though  the  for* 

tiBcalions  which  were  on  its  summit  have    long  been  levelled 

in  the  du8t«   yet  there  are  still  vestiges  enough  on  its  sides  to 

show  that  it  mu.^t  have  been  a  place  capable  of  an  obstinate 

efence  ;  for  there  have  been  originally  fifteen  earthen  banks^ 

ach  about   half   a  mile    in  extent,    which    mnst   have   been 

ttccesslvely  forced   before  an  enemy  could  even  attack   the 

lelt     That  it  was  once  a  place  of  importance  is  also  further 

'^tirinced  by  the  coins  which  at  dillerent  times  have  been  fomid 

here* 

At  Oxtan  also  there  are   three   large   tumuli^  the  largest  of 

rirhich  is  fifty-three  feet  in  diameter*     This  wa^  opened  by  th«? 

»tc  major  Rooke,  who  has  much  distinguished  himself  by  hi^ 

search  into  the  antiquities  of  this  county*     He  found  in  it  an 

Bin  made  of  iron,  filled  with  ashes   and  burned  bones ;  along 

rith  this,  there  were  a  large  sword  in   a   wooden  scabbard. 

token  into  several  pieces,  two  daggers,  and  fifteen  glass  beads^ 

blue^  yellow^  and  green:  and  he  considers  it  as  being  the  tomb 

fsoroe  British  warrior.    Mr*  Rooke  also  considers  those   ele- 

r^ations,  now  called  Robin  Hood's  Hills,  as  having  a  great  le- 

ItembUnce  io  tumuU  at  a  distance,  though  on  a  nearer  approach 

iiey  are  found  too  large  to   have   been  the   production  of  art. 

They   lie  at  the  back  oi  Newslead   Abbey,   on  the  North- 

restern  range  of  the  foreM,   betv^cen  that  and  Ktrkby,  and 

llbrta  a  curious  kind  of  amphithcatje  at  the  end  of  a  little  valley  ; 

A  2  bur 


soTTiveaASiiRtmi. 

but  though  they  have  originally  been  the  work  of  nature,  yet 
an  may  have  had  some  band  in  producing  their  regularity  of  ap« 
pearaoce  in  remote  times.    On  the  summit  of  the  highest,  there 
wa,s  formerly  a  scat  cut  out  of  the  solid  rock  with  a  canopy  over  1 
iU  ^nd  called  Robin  Hood's  Chair,  though  probably  of  miiellj 
higher  antiquity  :  this  however  was  destroyed  some  years  ^go^j 
having  actually  been  taken  down  to  form  some  rock  work  in  thel 
Park  at  Neivslead  Abbey. 

In  the  western  limits  of  Works'^p  Park^  there  are  also  several] 
mounts  which  are  cTideiuly  ancient  tumuli;  these  have  no«rJ 
some  very  old  oaks  growing  out  of  thens^  which  add  much  t^l 
their  air  of  aittHjoity.     Of 

Roman  ANnQt;tTi£s — there  are  still  many  specimens  in 
rious  parts  of  the  county.  The  great  camp  on  Holly  hill  nea^ 
Arnold  ^  is  supposed  to  have  been  the  central  depot  of  the  Re 
man  forces  in  this  district,  as  from  its  great  elevation^  all  th€ 
eTcploratory  camps  are  easily  distinguished  ;  at  the  same  timi 
that  its  vicinity  to  Nottingham,  gives  great  weight  to  the  opi*J 
nion  of  Dr»  G«i}e,  that  this  was  the  Causennis  of  that  mllilari 
people. 

About  two  miles  from  Mansfield  also,  are  still  to  be  see 
some  vestiges  of  that  curious  Roman  villa,    discovered  by  Mi! 
Rooke,  and  which  will  be  more  fully  described  in  its  propt 
place*      In  various  parts  of  the  county  also,  have  been  found 
spears^  fibulae*  and   keys  of  brass,  and  evidently  of  Roman ^ 
workmanship;  these  have  more  particularly  been  dug  up  about 
Newstead,  and  between  Mansfield  and  Harlow  Wood,    Brass 
Cclu  have  also  been  found,  particularly  between  Hexgrave 

an 


*Ilooke'i  Sketch  of  Sherwood  Forrst.  We  sbmll  remark  here,  onee  for  ajf, 
thnt  the  variuufi  authorilii^  ihall  be  fuitlifuLlN  given  ^  but  that  the  formstily 
of  marking  ^utHMiom  wilt  in  general  be  dispen&ed  i*iilv  ai  noc  only  br^skkig 
in  tipoti  the  regular  ctiftin  ol  description,  but  in  tome  measure  tending  to 
etieck  thai  mode  of  abbreviation  which  is  better  done  by  a  general  view  of  the 
vatioui  opinionij  than  by  a  distinct  quotation  from  each  specific  authority. 


IfOTTlKaHAMSIllRS* 


^ 


and  Raliivrorth  water  ;  but  these  are  perhaps  rather  of  British 
origin.  Into  this  part  of  the  queslion.  Major  Rooke  enters  very 
fully.  He  observes  that  antiquarians  have  cJiOered  much  in 
opinion  with  regard  to  their  me  ;  for  many  of  them  have  a  ioop 
on  the  side,  from  whence  it  has  been  thought  they  were  used 
by  the  Romans^  as  missile  weapons;  but  a.^  on  the  other  hand, 
many  of  them  have  been  found  in  the  shape  of  a  chiiie],  that 
coDJecture  seems  not  well  founded.  Besides  the  edges  of  most 
of  those  that  have  been  found,  are  notched  in  such  a  manner 
9M  to  prove  that  they  have  been  used  for  mechanical  purposes; 
they  have  also  been  found  in  pUae^f  where  the  Romans  are  sup* 
posed  never  to  have  penetrated  ;^  nay  they  are  found  even  at 
the  present  day  in  parts  of  Ireland  and  of  Tartary,  where  that 
nation  never  found  a  way  :  the  occasional  discovery  of  them 
therefore,  near  the  best  adcertaiued  Roman  stations  or  high 
roads«  does  not  militate  against  the  conjecture  that  they  were 
fkbricaied  by  the  ancient  Britons  long  before  the  Romans 
taught  them  the  use  of  iron,  though  the  Cont|uerors  might  in 
some  measure  have  adopted,  and  iinproved  them,  during  their 
reaidence  here. 

The  Roman  Roads  have  been  pretty  numerous;  through  this 
county* 

Near  Willoughby  on  the  H^alds^  the  ancient  Fosseway  enters 
from  Leicestershire,  passes  on  to  Newark,  crosses  the  Erminge 
urt€t  from  London  to  York,  and  then  enters  Lincolnjihire.  This 
road  may  be  easily  traced  for  \n'^T\y  miles  along  the  wolds^  and 
U  literally  ^ fosse,  dug  so  deep  than  an  army  might  march  along 
tt,  even  now,  without  being  seen  except  by  thtjse  on  the  very 
edge  of  the  bank.  Several  of  the  roads  through  the  wolds  cross 
tt  in  different  placesi  particularly  about  Owthorpe,  and  in  many 
parts  the  remains  of  the  old  pitching  with  stones  set  on  edge 
may  be  found  by  clearing  away  the  grass  and  weeds, 

A  3  The 


•  The  Editor  of  the*c  shfctiiav*  one  disco  vered  in  Worcestershire  Imi  iiain^ 
icr,  near  Evcibttm^  iAs  from  any  acknowledged  traces  of  the  Eornan^* 


9  NOtTtKGRAHSltlRE. 

The  Forest  tracts  al»o  contain  many  vestiges  of  those  miiU 
Ury  ways,  wliich  nre  invariably  in  a  norih-west  direction,  thai 
seeming  to  have  been  their  line  of  march  through  tiiis  disiric 
and  these  are  in  many  places  accompanied  by  exploratoi^ 
camps. 

One  of  these  roiitls  commences  at  Nematkt  and  goes  throng 
part  of  Smithtteti,  in  a  line  between  Norwood  Piirk  and  Kir| 
Jington ;  when  it  enters  ihe  forest,  we  lose  it  for  a  short  dtstanc 
Iiaving  cridently  been  Htsfroyed,  nor  do  we  find   it  again  unt^ 
if  ^bews  itself  in  anebn;irtcl  ridge  ne;ir  Rainworlh  w^ter»     This 
had  Inen  for  many  ctnturres*  since  the  conc^uest,  the  old  road 
from  New:irk  to  M;instield,  utn\  was  unciently  called  the  Sireti  , 
a  certain  proof  of  its  Roman  origfin. 

To  the  S<juihward   ol   Mansfield  al§o^  particularly  near  t) 
Hut,*  are  several  fragments;  which  added  to  the  amenity  of 
situation,  and  the  di&covery  of  the  %'illa,  and  of  several  Coin 
&c.  sufficiently  prove  it^  having  been  a  Roman  station.     There 
n  reason  to  believe  that  Ihe  ^^m 

Eaiil!!  orNoTiTSGHAM — dcfivcd  their  tttle^  rather  from  tli^H 
CaaU,  than  from  the  County;  with  the  latter  boirever,  ihetr 
history  is  so  clo5;t:ly  cunnecled  that  we  shall  give  it  in  this  place 
Part  of  it  we  shall  give  from  an  ancient  MS.  *  in  the  Brilis 
Museum  which  brings  it  down  to  1694.  and  is  called 

*«  Catalogue  of  the  Earls  of  the  town  of  Notingham  with  t 
brief  hiiittorical  collection  of  their  loyalty,  armes»  wifea  anJ 
deaths. 

••  William  Peverell  a  naturatl  Sonne  of  William  the  Con 
fjucror^  begotten  to  Normandy;  which  William  came  with  hi| 
fatlicr  to  this  his  conquest ;  who  having  been    brought  up 
military  profession,  and  one  that  the  Conqueror  could  confid 
)tii  he  advanced  bim    to  honour,  and  gave  him   bis  new  bu 
rastle  of  Nottingham^  with  sev trail  lordships  within  this  cou 

t1 


•  Hurl.  MSS.  5041. 


KQTTlNGUAICSIIIEEi*  J| 

If.*     This  William  with  his  Notifighamsli:  forces  was  one   nt* 

^.Ihc  chief  Commanders   in  the  third    of  Kiiitj  Stephen   a^aiiiJ^ 

'  those  projidwus   Scots,  who    had   inviided  England,  so  farr  as 

North  AUerton,  in  the  couoty  of  Yorke;  where  theye  receivrd 

I  their  reward,  being  totally  overthrown:  and  with  king  Slrpben 

In  the  battle  of  Linculne,  where  he  Wdn  taken  |>risonifr,  ho  that 

Maud  the  Empress  had  scize^l  on  his  casllv  of  Ngtingham,  and 

^vea  it  to  one  William  Painell :  but  it  wtui  recovered  again  by 

I  stratagem.     He  married  Aveline. 

"WiLLJAM  pEVLittLL  his  sonne  and  heire  with  others  con* 
irived  which  way  to  take  away  the  life  of  Rauulphe  Earl  ivf 
Chester,  which  by  poison  was  done.f  After  hearing  of  llenrv 
the  2ds  fewry,  he  lied  the  Reahiie,  leaving  all  hii»  ciij'tles  and 
lordship[>3  to  the  King's  dispossal.  He  left  a  daughter  and 
heire,  Margaret^  who  marrk'd  about  1141 

*' William  (Earl  of  Nottincham  iu  her  rights)  and  Earle 
r Ferrers  and  Derby,  of  who&c  antiquity  and  family  you  may 
see  more  in  the  earldome  of  Derby,  /or  Robert  hi%  father  stUcd 
kimieifi  Ear ie Junior  de  Notingham^l     This  til le  next  came  to 

A  4  ^'JoHj«, 


•  Thcte  amoontt'd  to  forty-eight  tradesmen's  boujcsiii  Uie  town,  and  firtj* 
We  Rtsnors  tn  ihe  Shire. 

f  The  circuttittatices  connected  with  ihif  events  strongly  mark    the   igno- 

•nt  supcrttUiun  of  those  time$>,whcn  (he  simple&t  and  plainer  pracci^Acs  wtttr 

eferrcd  to  magic;  for  ihe  moiitiih  writer  who  relates  ihe  »torv  tells  us,  that 

Iqaftrrel  having  arisen  between  thU  Perfrri  and  TUttutph  ite  M^ctnit  Earlnf 

tier,  the  former  contrived  vrilh  many  «itbersj  6y  fi>reert/  and  wiichcrttft,  to 

lym  ,  which  ho  accordingly  effected  A^v  poiionhtg  him  ;  a  mode  so  cvriain* 

My  not  to  have  required  (lie  aid  eiilwJf  of  sorcery  or  wilchrrafl  f     The 

pefpetratorof  this  horrible  deed,  tied  fif»t  inio  a  monastery  of  hi«<  nwn  foun- 

dnimu  at  LtntiJn,  Imd   his  head  shnrn  like  a  Monk,  and   appeared  to  have 

tikrii  the  vows ;  Imt  he  »oon  found  thut  the  power  of  the  Churcli   was  not 

nScieur  to  protect  him  agninit  a  justly  incensed  Monarch. 

►  *  We  are  told  that  ho  was  a  very  ju«hii  aisd  devoot  man,  "  according  to  the 

mannenof  tho%e  tinted'*  which  tnay  have  bt'Cn  *tnc  of  the  reasons  th.i(  induced 

kilig  Richard  CcMir  de   Lion  to  lake  UU  cai tic  and  liunour»  iroin  himi  and 

bellow  fbeiB  OD  his  brother  John. 


i  VOTTIVOBAMSUiaK. 

'« JaHN»  who  wai  siroamed  Sanz-terre,  sixi  aoniie  of  Hearf 
the  Second ;  which  John  be  made  Earle  of  Moreton  (or  Max^ 
layne)  and  gave  him  this  castle  and  honour  of  Notingham, 
whom  bad  before  a  castle  seated  upon  an  hill  near  to  Mori,  ia 
the  county  of  Wiltsh  :  (now  called  Marleburgh)  and  lastly  was 
King  of  this  reaUn.*  After  this  it  was  granted  to  the  ancieni 
fiunily  of  the  Mowbrays ;  first  to 

«<  John  Moubrat,  f  27th  of  Edward  the  Sd,  who  wai  slaine 
in  the  Holy  Land  by  the  Turks,  anno.  XLII  of  £dw.  IIL  He 
married  Elizabeth  daughter  and  heire  of  John  Lord  Segraye 
who  assumed  the  surname  of  Segrave>  from  a  lordship  in  Lei« 
cestersh  :  their  son 

«'  John  Mowbray,  created  Earle  at  the  coronation  of  king 
Richard  the  Second,  and  H.  of  his  reign.  %  He  was  one  that 
entered  Scotland,  with  his  joint  forces,  and  died  the  sixflt  of 
Richard  the  2d  at  London,  without  issue  and  was  buried  there. 

''Thomas  Mowbrat  his  brother,  succeeded,  being  next 
heire,  and  was  created  Earle  of  Notingham  by  Richard  the 
second,  the  VH  of  the  said  King's  reigne.  Hee  with  other 
Barons  entered  Scotland  with  an  army  of  Spearmen  and  Archers ; 
and  in  the  IX  of  his  reign.  He  constituted  the  said  Thomas  Earle 
Marshall  of  England,  for  term  of  life ;  whose  loyalty  and  great 
service  for  his  King  and  countrey,  the  French  and  Spaniards 
both  knew  ;  also  he  attended  king  Richard  into  Ireland,  the 
XVIII  of  his  reigne.  He  was  the  first  that  was  ever  honoured 
by  charter  with  the  office  of  Earle  Marshall.      His  first  wife 

wa^ 

*  On  the  return  of  Richard  from  the  Holy  Land,  John  refused  to  reaigpi  it, 
and  kept  it  in  bis  own  hands  until  he  came  to  the  Crown^  in  whicli  it  was 
merged  for  some  lime. 

f  This  Earl  is  not  mentioned  in  the  general  lists.  His  creation*  if  it  reallji 
took  place,  must  have  been  in  1S52. 

t  With  this  special  clause  that  he  should  boId«  tub  /iMiore  C^mitali,  or  at 
parcel  of  this  Earldom,  all  his  other  lands  and  possessions.  He  must  haTO 
entered  early  on  the  theatre  of  public  life*  as  be  died  under  age«  and  his 
brother  was  only  seventeen  years  of  age  when  cieated  Earl  ia  his  room. 


NOTTlNOUAlI&Hiait*  V 

was  Elizabeth  daughter  and  heire  to  Jolin  Lo  :  Strange  of  Black- 
mere  ;  she  aird  XXUI  of  August  VIL  of  Eiohard  IL  without 
issue.  His  secoatl  wite,  viz.  Eiizabelb  one  ot  ihti  daughters  of 
Richard  Fitzalan,  Earle  of  Arundelle.  And  the  XXIX  of 
Septem:  Anno  M.  CCCXCVIl.  he  was  created  Duke  of  Nor* 
fblke;  but  suddenly  afler  the  scales  turned  by  subtile  and  per* 
nicious  counsel],  for  ambition  and  striving;;  for  wordly  bonourt 
and  promotion  is  a  very  miserable  thing,  short  of  continuance 
md  hastneth  an  dangrous  end  ;  for  in  the  XXf  of  Richard  li, 
be  had  an  Irrecoverable  fall,  being  banished  out  of  this  realm 
never  to  return  into  England.  He  died  at  Venice  in  Septem* 
the  I.  of  Hen.  IV^ 

"Thomas  Mowbray   EAittc   Marshall  op  Ekgland  (his 

Son)f  who  meeting  with  discontented  persons,  soon  laid  hold  of 

that  opportunity ;  for  rebellion  doth  all  waics  begin  upon  revenge, 

or  ambition,  and  sinister  respect.     Such  was  his  desperate  con- 

ipiracy  against  his  lawfull  kingj  for  the  whiche  he  had  tliestrolct 

'  of  the  axe  at  Yorke,  anno  MCCCCV.      He  married  Constance 

[daughter  of  John  Holland   Earle  of  Huntingdon  and  Duke  of 

[  £xeier. 

*<  Jobs  Mowbray  Earle  Marshall  ano  Earle  or  NoTtfiG* 
^AM  (his  Son  X)  hee  was  a  mo^t  active  and  faithful  subject  io 
Iking  Henry  V.in  his  warn?  in  France  with  horse  and  foot;  alls^ 
sut  eminent  Commander  in  bis  service  in  Normandy ;  and  [ 
Henry  VI.  retained  by  him  in  those  warrs,  with  one  Baneret^ 
IV  Knights,  one  CXIV  military  men  armed  a  capea  pee,  and 
CCC  and  LX  archers.  For  this  his  fathfuU  loyalty  he  was  re- 
stored 


•  Variooi  hiftoriani  give  liim  but  an  indifFerenl  character,  and  acca»e  him 
«f  a  series  of  pciliiical  indttiy,  whicli  seems  lo  have  been  puoisbed  even  by 
the  man  for  whom  he  commined  iiomc  of  hi^  worst  deeds. 

«  He  ^a»  Earl  of  Notliticflium,  but  ii  said  nut  to  have  betfii  Duke  ol  Nor* 
folk*  He  wa»  very  young,  on  comnig  lo  the  Uile,  and  was  prevailed  oa  ttt 
join  in  the  conspiracy  ot  Seroopc  Archbiahnp  of  York» 

I  He  h  by  some  geitcially  called  ItittWf  to  the  preceding  Earl* 


10  yOTTtSCUJiMSVIR'E 

floral  ttiid  digoified  with  flial  princely  tkim  ol  IMnr  «f 
Mke,    He  dyd  ihe  XX  of  May,  VU  of  Hen.  VI 
body  to  be  buryed  wiibiii  tlir  Uie  of  Axholoie ; 
•til  OcL  XI    Henry  V.     He   marrtcd   Eatbcrioe 
Ha1|>h  Nevile  £arle  of  Westmoreland* 

*'JoiiBi  LoftD  Mownn4r  succeeded  and  cnjoy^  Itw  1 
tUIcK  of  Honour,  and  in  ibe  XV U  of  King  Henry  tbe  VI  i 
bee  waft  sent  Ambossadoar  tn  treat  of  peace  bein  ixt  OQr  Kin 
and  the   French   King,  and   died   MCCt'CLXI   and  buried 
Tlietfurd  tn  Nurfulke,*  He  married  Eleanor  daughter  to  VViUia 
Lofd  Bourchrer. 

"Joiiw  Lord  Mowbrav  (his  Son)  was  by  Henry  the  V] 
the  XXIV  March  created  Earie  Wanrenne  and  Surrey  :  a  pef 
ton  of  good  prudence,  and  put  oit  the  belt  of  military  hon 
engaging  to  serve  hi&  King  in  the  warres  of  France^  fd 
one  whole  ycarc*  He  died  at  Frmnington  Castle  (quer 
Framlingham)  in  Norfolket  and  was  emerredatXhetford  ann 
MCCCCLXXV.  He  niarned  Elizabeth  danghtcr  of  John  Tal 
bo^  fifflt  Ear le  of  Shrewsbury  of  Lhat  naroe^  by  whom  he  ha 
Anne  solo  daughter  and  heire,  but  she  died  without  issue  f 

*•  jjiabcl  one  of  the  daughters  of  Thomas  Mowbray  Duke  ' 
Norfolke  by  his  II  wife,  married  James  Lo:  Berkley  who  diel] 
at  Berkley  Cusile   in   Glouce»tersh :  anno  MCCCCLXHI  and 
lyeih  buried  in  Berkley  Church;  to  whom  s!  •*  had  issue, 

"Wiitivw  Bekklby,!  who   received  the  order  of  Knight 
hood  ttt  Calais :  be  wa«  by  King  Edw  ;  IV  advanced  o  vt^ountf^ 


•  lie  wn^^ttlta  Jaitice  Ttiueraiit  of  the  ling*>  forests  louth  of  Trcoi;  mnd 
iiccording  to  U»o  piety  of  tho*c  dAys,  made  scvrriil  pilgrimage*  tu  Jloiue, 
the  Ht»ly  lund  &c,  aitd  had  even  *oMred  to  inkc  Jtvprol  more;  but  in  Uiis  he 
wai  Iriiitfuti'd  by  the  arrot  o(  T>c«ih. 

t  it  «|Jpciifhh.iweverthiiithiiUdv  h«iviog  married  llich«d  Dakcot  \ork, 
Woond  wti  tif  F4wutd  the  founh,  he  W4«  lliercby  emitted  to  poocsa  the  EstU 
floni.  in»  HMirder  in  l\w  Tawvt  nl  jiii  catJy  age,  prp vented  any  issue  ;  oot 
4Atf  he  a|ipeiLf  in  »U  the  geneml  hs{», 

t  He  11  »omcttmei  »aid  to  hiive  beeu  ber  gnmdtoi^ 


KOTTtNOItAMSUIHE.  M 

ind  by  King  Richard  created  Eaulb  op  Notingham.  But 
af^etv  adhering  to  Henry  Buke  of  Buckingham,  against  King 
Hichar^i,  he  fled  unto  Henry  Earle  of  Richmond,  who  was  after 
King,  and  constituted  Earle  Marshall  of  £ngbnd>  and  after 
Bdvanced  to  that  princely  honour  of  a  Marquessc,  He  died 
without  Issue  XIV  of  Feb:  VII  Hen,  VIK  He  married  three 
wtres|  Elizebetb  daughter  of  Reginald  West  Lord  La  Warre  ; 
Jane  daughter  of  Sir  Thomas  StraDgwaya  Knight ;  she  died 
I  Rich  S  I  Anne  daughter  of  John  Fiennes,  I^ord'Dacres  of  the 
South,  but  dyed  without  issue  X  Sepir:  XIII  Hen,  VIL* 

"  llE^av  FtTzaoY,  a  natural  Son  to  King  Henry  the  Eight, 
begotten  on  the  Lady  Talboys,  widdow,  but  daughter  of  Sir 
John  Blound,  Knight ;  who  was  by  his  talhcr  the  XVllI  of  June 
in  the  XWll  yere  of  his  Haign»  made  Knight  of  that  nobk  order 
of  the  Garter,  and  the  &ame  <Iay  advanced  mito  that  honourable 
title  of  Earle  of  Notinghain  &,c;  who  with  the  rest  of  bis  ho* 
Hours  and  dignity s  dyed  vvithout  issue  the  XXiV  of  July  anno 
MBXXXVL 

"William  Howaeo,  a  collateral  branche  of  the  Duke  of 
Norfolke  was  by  Queen  Mary  advanced  to  a  Baron  by  the  title 
of  L^rd  Howard  of  ElBngham  in  the  hundred  of  Copthorne  in 
the  Com:  of  Surrey.  He  married  Catherine  daughter  and  co* 
Ikeir  to  Sir  John  Broughton  of  Tuddington  in  Com  :  Bedf :  Knt. 
but  had  no  issue  male;  secondly  Margaret  daughter  of  Sir 
Thomas  Gamage^  Knt.  who  had  issue  male.f 

" Cmahl^s  Howard,  succeeded  in  the  honour,  nho ^as  ( in 

his 


*  Having  no  iisur,  bc^vu  prcvtjted  on  by  Ihc  politic  Henry  the  serentfi,  to 
l|iAke  over  hh  honourt  and  estotes  to  the  crown ;  by  which  rneani  las  brother 
3k!iiitrice,  aguiu^t  whom  lie  h  Mid  to  liavc  been  much  enraged,  for  murrjin? 
tome  pcrsun  below  bini  in  &iiiticjii.  wns  coinpletftly  diiiuheritcd,  Maurice, 
Wmcver«  wto>  ambled  to  recover  snuie  manours  wrhich  tbo  Crown  could  not 
I  |fty  bold  oG  hot  tbc  earldom  ot  Noilingharn  wa«  loit  t^  the  famity,  and  lay 
dormant  for  toiuc  ycari. 

I  Ii  doen  not  uppciir  howevefi  from  otbcr  sources  th^t  this  WUIlan^  Uowgird 
trer  bort  the  tide  ot  Notilnghtim. 


12  VOTTIVGBAMSBI&S. 

hii  faiber's  life  tiine)  on6  of  those  noble  persons,  by  Queen 
Elisabeth  made  choice  on  for  the  condu<;ting  the  Lady  Anne  of 
Austria,  daughter  to  Maximilian  the  Emperor  from  Zeland  into 
Spain :  and  XXIV  April  the  XVI  of  £liz :  he  was  made  one  of 
the  most  noble  order  of  the  Garter,  being  then  Lord  Cham-> 
berlayne  to  the  Queen.*  Hee  was  made  Lord  High  admirall 
of -England  anno  MDLXXXVIII ;  he  was  constituted  Lieute- 
nant ^General  of  the  Queen's  whole  fleet  at  Sea,  against  the 
Spaniards  Armado ;  also  in  the  XXXIX  of  her  raigne  he  was 
dignified  with  the  title  of  Earlb  or  Notinoham,  and  at  the  coro* 
jMftion  of  Ring  James,  he  was  Lord  Great  Steward  of  England 
and  dyed  at  Hayling  in  Kent,  anno  MDCXXIV.  He  married 
Katherine  daughter  to  Henry  Lord  Hunsdon  (first  wife)  and  his 
second,  but  oldest  sunriving  Son  by  her. 
'  •'Cbarlss  HowABD  succeeded.'^*— — — 

Thus  fhr  says  the  MSS.*-to  which  we  have  to  add  that  he 
married  three  wives,  but  had  issue  only  by  the  last  of  them, 
Margaret  daughter  of  James  the  Scottish  Earl  of  Murray.  His 
eklett  son  James,  died  unmarried  in  his  father's  life  time,  and  his 
youngest 

Charles  Howard  succeeded  as  Earl  of  Nottingham,  but  dying 
without  issue,  the  earldom  became  extinct,  though  the  barony 
of  Effingham  went  to  the  ancestor  of  the  present  Earl  of  that 
title. 

Heneage  Finch,  baron  Finch  of  Daventry,  was  created  earl 
of  Nottingham  in  the  reign  of  Charles  the  second.  He  was  son 
and  heir  of  Heneage  Finch,  fourth  son  of  Sir  Moyle  Finch,  the 
Iwenty-fiflh  baronet  created  by  King  James.  Sir  Moyle  had 
married  Elizabeth  only  daughter  of  Sir  Thomas  Heneage  Knt. 
Treasurer  of  the  chamber,  vice  chamberlain  of  the  household, 
and  chancellor  of  the  duchy  of  Lancaster,  in  the  reign  of 
Elizabeth,  also  a  member  of  her  Privy  Council,  and  who  would 

have 

*  He  wM  Earl  tw cnty-ieYcn  jcsn^  and  knight  of  tW  Garter  durbg  s  pe- 
riod of  fifty-tw*. 


irotTtNGnAMSnias* 


IS 


received  higher  honours,  had  not  his  death  prerenled  it 

Sir  Moyle  Finch  wa,^  also  considered  as  having  further  claimi 

ttpoci  his  sovereign  ;  accordingly  soon  after  his  death  his  Widow 

was  raised  by  James  the  first  to   the   peerage,  by  the  title  of 

Viicoantesst  Maidstone;  and  a  short  time  aller^  in  1628^  Charlet 

first,  gave  her  the  higher  dignity  of  Countess  of  Winchel* 

in  which  the  was  succeeded  by  her  eldest  son. 

iog  highly  esteemed  for  his  great  knowledge  of  the  laws  of 

Sigland,  he  was  on  the  restoration  of  Charlca  the  second,  first 

appointed   solicitor  General,  then  attorney  General,  and  soon 

mfter,  in  1G60,  a  Baronet*      In  IG?-*!,  he  rose  to  the  dignity 

of  lord  keeper  of  the  Great  Seal,  was  created  Baron  Finch,  and 

in   I<iT5  earl  of  Nottingham.     He   married  the  daughter  of 

Datiiel  Harvey  Esq.  a  njerchanl  in  London,  and  had  a  nume* 

rous  family.    Hts  eldest  son 

Daniel  second  Earl  of  Nottingham  of  that  family  succeeded, 
but  shortly  after,  the  earldom  of  Wlnchdsea  coming  to  him  as 
heir  to  his  great  grandmother,  tlie  fust  Countess,though  descend- 
ed from  her  fourth  Son,  the  title  of  Nottingham  became  merged 
in  the  older  creation  of  Winchelsea,  and  is  now  enjoyed  hy  the 
present  Ear t  of  Winchchea  and  Nottingham, 
With  respect  to  the 

Estates  and  Lanoed  Property — of  this  coiinty«  we  know 
nothing  of  tbem  before  the  conquest ;  soon  after   which  the 
Saxon  landholder*  seem   to  have  been  completely  ousted  from 
their  lands,  which  were  then  parcelled  out  by   the  Norman 
soiong  his  followers,  in  various  proportions:  to  William  Pe- 
el he  gave  no  less  than  one  hundred  and  three  lordships  ;  to 
ger  de  Buisly,  eighty-six;  to  Walter  D'Eincourt,   thirty- 
Ibor;  to  Ralph  FiU  Hubert  fen;  to   Hugh  D'Vbrincis  earl   of 
Chester,  four;  to  Alai>earlof  Riclnnond,  seven  j  to  Robert  earl 
ofMorteign  and  Cornwall,  six;  to   William   Malet,  baron  of 
Eye,  two;  to  Henry  Ferrers  earl  of  Derby,  three;  to  Ralph  de 
^Limesi,  eight ;  to  Hugh  de  Grenfsmesnil,  one;  to  Goisfred  de 
H^inselin,  eighteen:  to  Hugh  de  8ay  of  Ricard*s  Castle,  six; 
a  to 


14  VOTTIVORAMtRlRI. 

to  Ralph  de  Buniiij  eight ;  to  Tosti  Earl  of  Northamberland,  obat  ^ 
to  Godiva  Countess  of  Mercia,  four,  and  to  Algar  Earl  of  Mer- 
ciai  one,  being  all  that  was  left  them  out  of  their  ancient  Saxon 
possessions  in  this  county. 

Besides  these  we  find  from  Domesday,  that  there  were  other 
landholders  in  the  county ;  these  were  the  Archbishop  of  York  i 
Bishop  of  Lincoln ;  Bishop  of  Bayeux ;  Abbot  of  Burgh ; 
Roger  Pictavensis;  Gilbert  de  Gand ;  Gilbert  de  Tison :  Ilbert 
de  Laci;  Berenger  de  Todeni;  Hugh  Fitz  Baldric;  Osborne 
Fitz-richard  ;  Robert  Fitz-william;  and  William  Hostiarius,  or 
the  usher. 

To  enumerate  the  various  changes  of  property  in  succeeding 
reigns  would  far  exceed  our  limits;  but  as  great  part  of  the 
lands  of  this  county^  at  different  periods,  came  into  the  hands 
of  the  church,  we  shall  here  add  a  list  of  the 

Religious  Foundations. — Beauvalle,  or  Pulchra  vallis  in 
Parco  de  Gresley,  a  Carthusian  Priory,  dedicated  to  the  Holy 
Trinity. 

Bingham  College. 
Bfythe  Benedictine  Priofy;  to  the^lessed  Virgin. 

■  Hospital ;  to  St.  John  the  Evangelist 

Bradesbusk  Hospital,  in  Gonalston  Parish ;  to  St.  Mary  M^g-^ 

dalen. 
Broadholm  Pramotistratensian  Nunnery  ;  to  the  Virgin  Mary. 
Clifton  College  ;  to  the  Holy  Trinity. 
Felley  Austin  Canons  ;  to  the  Virgin  Mary. 
Fiskerton  upon  Trent,  Austin  Cell;  to  the  Virgin  Maryv 
Ltnton  Cluniac  Priory ;  to  the  Holy  Trinity. 

■  '      '   ■   Hospital ;  to  St.  Anthony. 

White  Friars  or  Carmelites, 

Marshe  Benedictine  Cell ;  to.  St  Thomas; 
Matter  sty  Gilbert  ine  Priory  ;  to  St.  Helen. 
Newark  Hospital;  to  St.  Leonard. 

Hospital  belonging  to  the  Benights  Templars^ 

• Austin  Friars. 

ffcwarM 


NOTTIJIOHAMSUI&B.  II 

Newark  Observant  Friars. 

NewMiead  Austim  Canons  ;  to  the  Virgin  Mary. 

Nottingham,  St.  Mary's  Cell. 

St.  Sepulchre's. 

College. 

^t.  Jones's  Hospital;  to  St.  Joha  the  Baptist. 

— —  St.  Leonardos  Hospital 

Plumtrt's  Hospital;   to  the  Anuunciation  of  tlfcc 
Virgin. 
■        Grey  Friars. 

White  Friars. 

Bodynffon  College. 

Rufford  Cistercian  Abbey  ;  to  the  Virgin  Mary. 

She\ford  Austin  Priory ;  to  the  Virgin  Mary. 

Sibthorpe  Collegiate  Foundation. 

Southtvell  College  ;  to  St.  Mary. 

—  Hospital ;  to  St.  Mary  Magdalene. 

Stoke  by  Newark  Hospital ;  to  St.  Leonard. 

Thurgarton  Austin  Canons;  to  Su  Peter. 

Turfbrd  College. 

Mallingwells  Benedictine  Nuns  ;  to  the  Blessed  Virgin  Mary. 

Wdbeck  Pramonstratensian  Abbey ;  to  St  James. 

Worksop  or  Radford  Austin   Canons;    to   St.   Mary   and  St 

Ciuhbeit* 

Tiic  various  grants  of  the  lands  belonging  to  the  foundaiionft 
which  took  place  at  the  dissolution,  will  be  recorded  under  the 
several  heads;  and  wiih  respect  to  the  present  occupation 
and  tenure,  it  is  only  necessary  to  say  that  few  estates  in  the 
county  arc  above  12,0001.  per  annum,  but  the  majority  are 
much  smaller,  so  as  to  produce  a  numerous  and  opulent  gentry, 
to  whom  must  be  added  a  most  respectable  yeomanry  occu- 
pying their  own  lands. 

Though  Nottinghamshire  boasts  the  residences  of  so  many 
of  the  highest  orders  of  the  nobility,  yet  it  is  rather  surprising 

that 

*  Xaaocr*t  Net.  Moik 


IG 


HOTTlKGHAMSnillTS. 


OD. 


ibat^  wJth  the  exception  of  the  town  of  Notlinghara  itself,  thcr^ 
are  so  few  others  that  have  atforded  titles  to  resident  nobles* 
The  only  places  in  the  county  which  have  given  titles  are^ 
Mamfieldt  an  Eiirhloni  in  the  Murray  family;  Newark,  a 
Viscounty  in  the  Meadows,  now  the  Pierrepoint  family ;  and 
Lexington  enjoyed  by  the  family  of  SattODj  bat  now  ex- 
tinct.* 

The  Baronetcies  in  the  county  have  been  roore  numerous; 
these  commenced  with  Sir  Gervase  Clifton  of  Clifton,  the  13tli 
Biironet  CI  eiueii  by  Kmg  James  the  fjrftt ;  Sir  John  Molyneux 
of  Teversal  and  Wellows;  Sir  Hardolph  Wastneys  of  HeatoD^ 
now  extinct ;  Sir  Thomas  WiHiamsun  of  East  Markham^  ex  tin 
Sir  Edward  Golding  of  Colston  Basset^  extinct;  Sir  Willi 
Willoyghby  of  Willoi;ghby,  extinct;  Sir  Francis  1  eeke  of 
Newark  upon  Trent,  extinct;  Sir  Edw*ard  Neville  of  Grove* 
extinct;  Sir  Francis  Willoughby  of  Widlaton>  now  merged  in 
the  peerage;  Sir  Thomas  Parkins  of  Bunney,  extinct;  Sir 
George  Smith  of  Nottingham  and  East  Stoke,  now  Smith  Brom 
le}' ;  Sir  Samuel  Gordon  of  Newark  tipon  TrenV,  extinct;  Si 
Richard  Sutton  of  Norwood  Park;  Sir  Richard  Heron  of  Ne 
ark;  and  Sir  JohnBorlase  Warren  of  Stapleford  Hall. 

When  the  order  of  the  Knights  of  the  Royal  Oak  was 
conlempiation  aller  the  restoration  of  Charles  the  Second,  the 
names  of  the  following  gentlemen  were  on  the  Irst  for  thai 
honour;  Cecil  Cooper  of  Thurj^nrton,  John  Palmer,  John 
Whaley,  John  Eyre  of  Mati^field  Woodhouse>  John  Middleton, 
Esqrs,  and  Sir  John  Curson,  KnU  ancestor  of  the  present 
Scarsdale  family. 

The  present  sta^e  of  landed  property  and  of  residence,  wi 
be  fuUy  shewn  by  the  followjng  list  of  the 

SEATS  OF  THE  NOBILITY  AND  GENTRY. 
Bunnet/f  Lord  Ranclifle. 
Clumber  Park,  Duke  of  Newcastle. 

Cost  act 


im- 

I 


eiU     - 

.4 


•  Langar  in  llic  S.  E.  pnrt  of  Ihc  county  docs  not  come  exactly  wilhto 
lltii  (leKTipiion  ;  the  title  in  the  patciil  is  VtscotiiU  Ihutf  of  Langar, 


of  Lanear,  J 


Cosiock,  Lord  RancliflTe- 
Holme  Picrpoint,  Earl  Manvers. 
Langar,  Baroness  Howe. 
Newsi€ad  Abbt^f  Lord  Byron, 
Scrtbjf  Hati,  Viscount  Gal  way.* 
Thorcsbif  Parkt  Earl  Mani^ers. 
'  Wclbcck  Abbey,  Duke  of  Portlandi 
Wollaton  Hail,  Lord  Middleton. 
Worksflp  Manor,  Duke  of  Norfolk; 
Carlton  HalL  Sir  WilUara  Earl  Welby,  Bart- 
CUft€m  Grove,  Sir  G^rvas  CliftoO/Bart. 
East  StoUx  near  Newark,  Sir  George  Smith  Bromley,  Bart. 
Monoid  JVoodhou^e,  Sir  William  Boothby,  Bart* 
Norwood  Park  J  near  Southwell,  Sir  Richard  Sutton,  Bart, 
Siaplrford  Hall,  Right  Hon.  Sir  J.  B.  Warren,  K.  B.  Bart. 
Weilow,  near  OUcrton^  Sir  Francis  Molyncux,  Bart* 
Atme^lejf  Halt,  John  Musters  Cbaworlhi  Esq. 
Anncsley,  William  Chaworth,  Escj* 
Apsley,  E*  Wiilaughby,  Esq. 
BabiLorih,  Hon.  J.  Bridgertian  Simpson. 

1  Rev.  Archdeacon  Eyre. 

Becstftorp  Hall,  Thomas  Bri^tow^  Esq. 
Berry  Hilt,  near  Mansfield,  T.  Walker,  Esq. 
Blythe  Hall,  a  seat  of  the  Mellish  family. 
Btythe^  near  to,  seat  of  Joshua  Walker,  Esq. 
Bramcote  House ^  John  Longden,  E<?q. 
Brook  Hill,  near  MansfieM,  Bcv*  D*Ewes  Coke. 
Mrtmgkton  Upper,  seat  near  to,  F,  Morris,  Esq. 
Carlion,  near  Worksop.  R.  Ramsden,  Esq, 
Ckilwelh  William  Charltoo,  Esq. 
Cockglade,  near  Carburton,  Dr.  Aldrkh, 
Coddington,  near  Nt!wark,  S,  C.  Colclougb,  Es<f. 
Colstofi  Ba$4e(,  seat  near  to,  Samuel  Wright,  Esq* 

B  Colwick 

•  TTiete  ti  a  very  htndsomt  sent  of  l»dy  QAmikj,  do4e  to  the  tawDoC 
B*wtry*  and  which  we  bclicv*  ii  witbiu  the  limits  of  thii  countj. 


Ifl 


K^OTtlNOllAUSHtaif 


Cohfick  Hall,  Job  a  Musters,  Esq. 

,  near  io,  seat  of  Gent^ral  LUUr, 
Cromwell,  Joseph  Pocklitigron,  Earj. 
I  Edwinstow,  Hon.  R.  L.  Saville. 
^  near  to,  seat  of  Dr.  CKxkes* 

-        ,  near  to,  seat  of  Booth  by,  E:>q. 

,  near  to,  scat  of  Mills,  Esq, 

^ortit  Lodge,  near  Papplewick,  J^  Cope,  E^sip 

Flmtham  Hall,  Col.  I'lioroton* 

Gedling  House,  William  ElUot  EJliotti  E»q# 

Grove,  Anthony  Hardolph  Eyre,  Esq.  M,  P. 

UurgurtQn  Hall,  G.  D.  L,  Gregory.  Esq. 
Kelkam  Hou&e,  John  Manners  Suttoiw  E.'iqv 

KirkUngton  Hall,  near  SouthwelL  ]Vlrs<  VVhetbam. 

Langford  House ^  near  Newark,  Chaplin,  Esq* 

Langold,  near  VN'urbiop,  J.  G.  Knight,  Esq* 

Lentun  Grove,  Francis  Evans,  Esq. 

Lent  on  Priory,  William  St  ret  ton,  Esq* 

JIappcricj/,  Ichitbod  Wright,  Esq. 

3Iuskham  Houie,  Joseph  Pockhngton,  Eaq# 

MuMam  South,  near  to,  seat  of  W.  D.  Rastell,  Esq. 

Isettleworth,  near  Mansfield,  Edward  Greavea,  Es4j« 

Norwood  Parkt  Thorn aij  Wright,  Esq** 

Nunall  Tetttple,  Hon.  Henry  Sed  ley. 

Oibcrton,  near  Retford,  Francis  Ferrard  Foljambe,  E«<|i. 

Ossington  Hall,  near  Tux  ford,  JohnDenison,  Esq.  M,  P. 

OxLthorpe,  Miss  Rcnsbaw. 

Plumtree,  William  Hal  lam,  Esq> 

Papplctiick,  Right  Hon*  Frederic  i^lontagtie- 

PoiMtill  near  Mansfield,  R.  Burdon,  Esq.f 
Ranby  Hall,  Hugh  Blaydes,  Esq. 
Itatdiffc  Lodge,  Tliomas  Boulton,  Esq. 
Red/dll,  John  Chaaihcrlain,  Esq. 


*  He  is  we  believe  only  the  occtipu;iL 
f  Ci;l.  II4II  U|  Of  was,  the  occapaiU  t»hlijjsK»t. 


lioTTlHG^AMSMlRB. 


19 


Rempstont  semi  near  to,  J»  Goodere,  £91;* 

—,  seat  near  to,  W,  Gregory  Williams,  Esq, 

^Muddirtgton,  Will  ram  Ford  Rawaon,  Esq. 
^Jtuffhrd  AbUy,  Hon*  and  Revd.  J.  Lumley  Saville. 
Scqfton  near  Babworih,  R.  Sutton,  Esq. 

hcf-wood  Mali,  near  Mansfield,  CoU  KelteU 
mcrwood  LodgCy  Henry  Cooper,  Esq* 
Shirewood  Hail,  John  Need,  E«q, 
kthire  Oak,  near  to  Gateford,  J.  Hewell^  Esq, 

Icghf,  seat  near  to,  Thoraas  Luidley,  Esq* 
fiiaunton  Hall,  Rev,  J,  Suuilton,  D.  D. 
fj^anford  Hill,  Charles  Verc  Dashwood,  Eiq. 
^^VrW/cy,  Thomas  Webbe^Esq, 
Syer$toH,  George  Fiirmghara,  Esq. 
T%omey,  George  Neville,  Esq* 
Thitimpiont  J.  W.  Emnierton,  Esq, 

hurgarton,  John  Brettle,  Esq, 
Totlenon  Bali,  Pendock  Neale  Barry,  Esq* 
JFalie^eld  near  Sneinton,  Charles  MeUor,  Esq, 
rWaiting  ffW/i,  William  White,  Esq. 
Wainall,  near  to,  seat  of  ^— .^  Rolleston,  Eiq, 
y^jf^Afly  near  Annesley,  W.  Chaworth,  Esq, 
Yigthorpc  near  Carlton  N.  W. — R,  Kentish,  Esq, 
Yifford  House,  John  Smith  Wright^  Esq. 
finckbourne  near  Southwell.  P.  Pegge  Burnell,  Esq* 
itkorpe  Hall  near  Muskhara.  R,  Pocklinglon,  Esq. 
[Hall,  Joifathan  Aclom,  Esq, 
Tivcricn  Hall,  near  Bingham. 

Having  thtss  taken  a  genera!  view  of  the  past  and  present 
naie  of  Landed  Property,  it  remains  for  us  to  glance  slightly 
Lit  the  present  stale  of  the  County  in  other  respects^  and  shall 
fiercfore  begin  with  lis 

Cliiisat£. — which  i^  by  all  writers,  even  of  the  earliest  dale, 
ton»idered  as  mooh  drier  than  that  of  most  of  the  other  neigh- 

B  2  bouring 


20 


NDTtrNGHAltSIliRE* 


bouring  counliei,  or  indeed  than  ihe  kingdam  in  general.    By  j 

comparison  of  di  1)1" real  years,  and  different  places^  this  opinion 
has  met  with  a  considerable  degree  of  confirmation  sulBcient  \ 
establiih   it  as  a  general   meteorological  feet.      In  ihc   yc 
1794,  the  quantity  of  rain  which  fell  at  West  Bridgeford  w^ 
only  twenty  SIX  inches  and  a  quarter;  in   1795,  it  was  Iwcntj 
four  and  three  quarters;  and  in  1796,  only  eighteen  inches.* 

Mr,  Lowe,  in  his  agricultural  survey,  has  accoi>nted  for  this 
fipon  very  rational  grounds,  conceiving  that  although  th 
greatest  rains  come  with  the  Easterly  winds,  from  the  Germai 
ocean^  yel  the  surcharged  clouds  being  attracted  powerfully 
by  the  mountains  of  Derbyshire,  i>assover  this  county  too  quicti 
ly  to  deposit  much  of  their  moisture,  whilst  on  the  other  ha 
the  clouds  from  the  western  ocean  and  Irish  channel  are  i 
traded  and  broken  by  the  Derbyshire  and  Yorkshire  niou 
tain;^,  before  they  arrive  at  this  level  district. 

This  general  dryness  is  cotisidered  as  favourable  to  the  tei 
perature  of  the  County,  so  as  to  bring  it  nearly  upon  a  par  vii^ 
respect  to  seed  time  and  liar  vest,  with  the  more  southern  couB 
ties.     The 

Soil  and  Surface*— Of  Nottinghamshire  are  eonsidered  by 
Thoroton  as  "generally  of  the  most  fertile  in  England  (excep 
a  part  of  the  forest  of  Sherwood  which  was  the  most  pleasan 
bat  by  the  abominable  destruction  of  woods  is  now  much  othc 
wise)  and  likewise  some  of  that  which  borders  upon  Derbysbir 
part  whereof  aftbrds  most  excellent  coals.*'  The  fact  JSj  ih 
this  is  not  properly  a  level,  but  a  champaign  country,  having 
a  general  inequality  of  surface,  seldom  rising  to  the  altitude  i 
a  hill,  but  auOiciently  broken  to  avokl  the  sameness  resulting 
from  u  dead  flat,  and  also  presenting  a  considerable  variety  i 
surface  v>hich  the  attentive  agriculturist  will  know  hoiv  to  ap- 
preciate* 


^jff.  [t  is  fpinnrkablc,  However,  th«t  th«  corresponding  qauititles  jn  the  meb 
pA\%  were   gulj  iZ^t  aiid  18  inches  in  1794 — 95.   wtuJst  in  Ltuc«thii«  j 
^isouQled  to  siify-niQe  inches  nnd  a  half! 


KOTTIKOHAMtlllSB. 


»» 


The  general  dtvisiun  of  the  soil  h  now  into  sand  or  gravel; 
§lay  ;  limestone  and  coal  land :  and  the  IkrsX  of  these  ha»  again 
T}#en  sabd'ivitled  into  the  forest  country  and  borders  extending 
about  thirty  miles  in  length »  and  from  seven  lo  ten  in  breiidth  ; 
the  Trent  bank  district ;  and  the  tanf^ie  qf  hmd  beyond,  or  east  y 
Trent,  running  into  Lincolnnhire. 

The  Trent  bank  district  ticcompanies  the  river  through  its 
whole  course  in  the  county^  as  fkr  as  Sutton  upon  Trent,  and  is 
in  some  places  not  more  than  a  mile  in  breadth,  and  never  move 
than  fii'e;  it  is  in  general  a  mellow  vegetable  mould  un  a  bottom 
of  sand  Of  gravel,  which  tometimes  &hew  themselves  on  the 
surface.  The  Aouth-western  district  also  on  the  hanks  of  the 
Soar  is  included  in  this* 

The  district  east  of  Trent,  is  generally  a  poor  land,  and  being 
subject  to  floods,  is  much  incon>moded  by  low  nmors,  which  it 
is  to  be  hoped  the  present  system  of  improvement  by  drainin*^ 
will  soon  remove. 

The  clay  district   Is  again  divided  into  the  north  tmd  south 
clays,     The  first  of  these  is  extremely  fertitej  much  more  so 
indeed  than  its  name  would  seem  to  imply,  arising  from  a  con- 
siderable mixture  of  sand  that   renders  it  more  friable  and  of 
course  more  easily  susceptible  of  agricultural  labour  than  cold 
lelay  lands  In  general.      In  the  more  northern  part  it  is  agreea- 
Ibly  diversified  with  hill  and  dale,  whilst  its  bold  promontories  ris* 
Ting  abruptly  from  the  dead   level  of  Misson  Car,  and  its  cou- 
tiualion  into  Lincolnshire  appear  evidently  to   have   been  at 
ne  very  remote  period  the   boundaries  to  an  ocean  which 
bust  once  have  flowed  over  what  is  now  a  scene  of  rich  culti- 
"ipation.   It  is  impossible  for  any  persim  to  conretnplate  the  view 
from  Oringiey  on  the  Hill  without  drawing  this  conclusion,  and 
it  appears  even  more  evident  when  these  hills  are  viewed  from 
lie  low,  particularly  on  the  road  from  Buivtry  towards  Re(ford, 
when  they  have  all  the   semblance  of  Idands  rising  from  the 
bosoin  of  the  ocean  ;  their  abrupt  cliBs  being  to  the  northward. 

B  3  whiUt 


n 


XrOTTIKGBAMSHIRS* 


whilst  on  llie  other  tide  they  sink  gradually  into  theg^ntral 
I  line  of  the  county.      # 

The   south  day  district  is   by  no  means  so   extensive  as  the 
I  fiorth  ^  it  includes  the  Vale  fif  Bdvoir,  which  presents  a  scene  ot 
I  cultivation  perhaps  equal   to  any  other  in   the   kingdom  ;  aliq 
,  the  woulds,  which  are  a  ranj^e  of  high  bleak  hills,  in  many  parts 
uninclosedtbut  now  in  a  state  of  progressive  improvemeiU,  par- 
ticularly by  plantings  for  which  they  seem  well  calculated* 

The  lime  and  coal  dUtncts  lie  on  the  very  western  verge  of 
the  county,  beginning  about  S/ur€  Oaks^  and  extending  to  the 
southward  as  far  as  the  Trent.  The  coal  begins  near  Mans- 
field :  and  it  is  a  curious  fact  that  the  limestone  is  prectnely 
bounded  by  the  river  Lene,  to  the  eastward  of  which  it  is  not 
to  be  found.    The 

Produce  of  this  county  is  fully  equal  in  quantity  to  the 
tegular  proportion  that  might  be  expected,  but  we  have  not 
been  able  to  procure  any  thing  like  an  estimate  either  of  its 
annual  quantity  or  value.  In  such  a  diversity  of  soilj  the  agri- 
culturist has  an  opportunity  of  cultivating  every  species  of 
grain,  nor  do  his  cares  go  unrewarded  ;  but  we  have  not  been 
able  to  ascertain  any  leading  facts  not  generally  known.  Thn'e 
is  however  on^  species  of  grain  whose  culture  Mr.  Lowe  in  his 
survey  believes  to  be  peculiar  to  this  county.  These  are  called 
Skegs,  and  yield  a  crop  double  in  quantity  to  any  other  species 
of  oats,  but  only  equal  in  wt-ight.  The  great  advantage  result- 
ing from  their  cultivation  is,  that  they  will  grow  where  nothing 
else  will ;  and  as  they  yield  a  sweet  nourishing  food,  the  far^ 
mers,  though  they  seldom  bring  them  to  market^  r^isc  them  it| 
considerable  quantities,  particularly  in  the  north-western  pari 
of  the  county^  for  their  own  use,  giving  them  to  their  horses, 
in  the  straw.  In  the  agricultural  survey,  they  are  stated  to  be 
the 'A  vena  stipiformii*' of  Limiseus,  and  defined  scien  titi  call  y 
I  as  *'  pannicled.  calyxes  two-flowered,  awns  twice  as  long  at 
the  seedj  culm  branchy,  stipe  fgrro.**    That  they  might  be  ia- 

troducrd 


MOTTl^tCHAMSBtRC. 


is 


lrodoc€d  With  success  into  other  places,  is  evitlent  from  the 
fact,  thftt  here  they  are  sown  on  the  worst  land;  sometitnes 
on  a  lea,  sometimes  after  turnips,  ol\en  taken  as  n  last  crop. 
Their  produce  on  bad  land  amounts  in  ^ncral  to  about  four 
quarters  per  acre,  equal  in  valtie  to  about  two  Ihirtls  the  stme 
quantity  of  oats ;  nor  are  they  «npr«ritable  on  good  Iirid,  as 
they  have  been  known  to  produce  fourteen  or  fifteen  quarters; 
but  their  great  advantage  is  that  they  will  produce  a  considera] 
bic  quanlity  of  5wcet  nutritious  green  food  for  hor-^es  and  tha 
they  will  do  this  on  the  worst  land  where  nothing  else  will 
grow.  * 

ifopf  arean  article  of  con??itlerable  cultivation  in  the  central 
part  of  the  county  about  Oilerton,  and  indeed  in  most  parts  of 
the  north  clm^.  Their  cultivation  is  not  however  considered  as 
an  increasing  one;  for  though  they  are  much  stronger  than  the 
Kentish  hops,  in  a  proportion  of  nearly  two  to  one,  yet  their 
flavour  is  by  no  means  so  mild  and  agreeable,  which  of  course 
operates  against  them  in  the  market. 

It  is  thought  that  this  county  is  favourably  situated  for  the 
ealtivation  of  orchards,  as  much  of  the  soil  is  a  red  marlv  loam 
with  blue  veins,  similar  to  the  orchard  districts  of  Worcester* 
shire  and  Herefordshire*  There  are  indeed  in  the  north  clay 
many  orchards  both  of  apples  and  pears,  but  not  in  isuffictent 
quantities  to  render  the  making  of  cyder  or  perry  an  object  of 
agricultural  attention ;  particularly  as  the  ready  sale  at  Mans- 
field market  to  the  dealers  who  supply  the  whole  mountainous 
district  of  Derbyshire,  is  sullinient  to  carry  off  any  i|uanlity  of 
tlie  fruit  that  may  be  raised* 

H^ttdt  sometimes  called  the  dyer's  wet'd*  is  anarrtcle  of  par* 
tial  cultivation  about  Scrooby,  and  other  places  in  the  northern 
district,  and  has  this  advantage  that  it  docs  not  occupy  much 
ground,  being  sown  with  oiher  crops  either  barli;y  or  clover, 
Jn  a  favourable  season,  it  has  been  known  to  yield  half  ato(i 

B  i  per 


^  More  on  this  tnbject  niii^  be  seen  in  L^wcS  larvcy  of  tbc  coont^. 


NOTTlKCilAM&KtllE. 


per  acre ;  bui  its  price  is  too  variable  far  the  farmer  to  depen4 
much  upon  its  cuHure«  being  s^Jin^times  as  low  us  6/,  and  at 
others  rising  to  34/»  per  ton* 

It  may  be  ob&eryed  with  propriety^  that  tiotwithstanding  all 
that  has  been  said  in  favour  oNarge  farms,  yet  the  system  of 
occupation  to  this  county,  i»  a  proof  that  they  are  far  from 
being  absolutely  necessa^ry^  at  leaU  beyond  a  certaiti  extent. 
It  may  be  trge  indeed*  that  if  very  large  forms  had  never  ex- 
isted, many  of  our  present  improvemenU  would  never  havi^^ 
been  thought  of;  but  even  granting  this,  it  is  still  pleasant  tol^ 
see  a  whole  county^  populous  in  proporti^^m  to  Ibe  extont  anc) 
uatureof  its  Aoil,  in  a  high  stale  of  cultivation,  intersected  by 
good  roads^  and  inhabited  by  a  respectable  yeomanry  aoii 
leasehold  farmers^  well  lodged  and  comfortably  situated  ;  and 
all  this,  where  very  few  farms  exceed  SOO/.  per  annum  ;  wber 
more  firms  ape  below  than  above  100/.  j  and  many,  in  the  cla] 
district,  as  low  as  twenty.  By  this  equal  division^  it  is  easy  i 
conceive  how  many  families  are  livji^g  in  h^^nest  respectabilit]^ 
and  though  they  may  be  considered  as  in  a  state  of  poverty 
the  smallest  farms,  yet  it  is  no^  a  state  of  poverty  wbipb  will 
send  their  occupants  to  the  workhouse  for  relief*  as  would  in 
fallibly  have  been  the  case  bad  twenty  or  thirty  of  these  littl^ 
spots  bpen  pon^olidated  into  one^  and  their  hapless  tenants  ob^ 
liged  to  perform  i|s  servile  drudgery,  as  that  which  now  forn 
the  cheerful  labour  of  themselves  and  families,  and  is  a  powcrfa 
stimulus  to  tht;ir  industry. 

A  liberal  spirit  of  improyemer^t  too  sepms  to  pervade  alt 
classes,  each  in  proportion  to  his  means,  trying  and  adoptin^^H 
the  moderi}  discoveries  of  other  districts  ^  and  the  beneficial  el^H 
fects  of  this  spirit,  which  has  been  much  aidpd  both  by  the  pre- 
cept and  example  of  many  of  the  resident  gentry,  is   evidetil 
over  the  whole  face  of  the  county.     Much  of  this  state  of  ioi^ 
provement,  resulting  from  a  more  ec^ual  di0usion  uf  occupancy 
may  be  supposed  to  proceed  from  the 

Tenvh 


KOTTIKGHAMSHtRE* 


u 


TEN4;*Rs--which  of  course  are  in  all  the  variety  of  freehold, 
copybold,  and  leasehold,  and  there  is  also  a  considerable  quan» 
Uty  of  church  and  collegiate  lands;  the  church  of  Southwell, 
and  the  archbishopric  of  York,  being  sfili,  as  formerly,  consi- 
derable landholders^  whilst  some  of  the  ancient  priory  latids  are 
now  in  possession  of  the  universities. 

The  freeholds,  indeod,  are  more  extensive  than  numerous  i 
and  with  reipectto  ihc  copyholds,  a  great  proportion  of  the 
smallest  ones  are  "Borough  English/'  and  descend  to  the 
youngest  son.* 

The  ifDQiediaie  occupanU  of  the  soil,  llowever»  are  mostly  tetip 
ants  at  will^  and  as  Uiejr  ^rms  in  r|iai>y  instances  have  thus 
gone  through  sevisral  generations,  they  feel  a  kiud  of  heredi- 
tary  security  that  prompts  them  to  the  same  course  of  improve- 
roent  as  if  they  were  secured  by  leases. 

The  JUnt-i  indeed,  according  to  the  modern  system,  have 
been  in  many  instances  raised  in  a  moFt  extrnordinary  propor- 
liou,  even  oo  the  lea^hold  lands,  though  perhaps  not  far  be- 
yond the  limits  of  strict  propriety  ;  we  have  heard,  however,  of 
some  ini^taxK-es,  particqtarly  on  the  baiika  of  Trent  where  they 
have  been  raised  in  a  proportion  of  three  to  one  !  and  that  un* 
tier  circumstances  which  left  the  farmer  no  choice  between  ac- 
ceptance and  dismission.  If,  with  t?iich  an  extraordinary  rise, 
the  farmer  is  titill  able  to  live  and  pay  his  rent,  it  is  indeed  evi- 
dent that  the  landholder  might  have  doubled  his  rentJ!  without 
uny  injury  to  the  farmer,  and  with  a  just  regard  to  his  own 
rights;  bat  we  cannot  help  fearing  that  a  rise  to  such  an  extent 
must  be  immediately  detrimental  to  the  occupant,  and  ultimate- 
ly so  to  the  landholder,  unless  it  pruduces  a  more  spirited  mode 
of  culture^  and  perhaps  brings  a  considerable  part  of  the  land 
under  thp  plough,  that  would  otherwiie  have  lain  in  a  com- 
paratively 

•  The  origin  of  ihis  part  of  our  commun  law  is  completely  inroUcd  iti 
lajUery.  but  i«  5up|H)8cd  to  have  Arisen  Iron*  the  ancieatfystem  of  va^salagr, 
wlitch  gnvc  tlic  iard  certain  rrghts  Over  hii  vvtsad  brides  tliu»  rcndoriiig  the 
l^iliinacj  of  the  tldett  born  uncertain. 


iJOTTlKGnAMSllIRE* 


paratiTely  idle  stale.  Shotild  ihat  prove  ta  be  ifee  caae,  theti^  . 
indeed  the  public  at  large  mast  benefit  from  it,  and  the  exlracvp«^| 
dinary  nse  need  no  longer  be  considerctl  as  an  evil;  but  tbii^^ 
can  only  be  determined  by  the  result  of  the  experiment. 

In  thfs  county,  also,  the  farmer  we  understand  has  many  ad- 
vantages in  the  article  of  iythes  ;  for  most  of  the   lands,  origi 
nally  church  lands,  are  tythcfree  ;  whilst  in  other  parts  of  ih 
connty,  compositions  are  gencraUy  made,  and  that  at  a  miich 
lower  rate,  than  a  surveyor  would  be  apt  to  value  them  at. 

Before  we  dismiss  this  part  of  the  subject  it  will  not  be  irrel^ 
▼ant  to  notice  two  Guriouti  agricultural  facts,  in  some  measn 
peculiar  to  this  county*     Mr.  Lowe  in  his  survey  tells  us  that 
the/or«r  dUtrict,  the  land  being  of  a  convertible  nature,  ver 
Httle  now  remains  permanently  m  g^rass,  except  in  the  bottoms 
near  rivers  or  brooks  for  meadow,  and   homesteads  about  fa 
houses  for  convenience;  but  formerlj' there  was  always  abo 
each  forest  village  a  small  quantity  of  inclosed  land  in  tillage 
pasture,  the  xt%t  lay  open,  common  to  the  sheep  and  cattle 
the  inhabitants,  Qnd  the  King^s  deer. 

With  respect  to  foresi  breaks,  he  observer,  that  it  has  been  m 
immemorial  custom  for  the  inhabitants  of  townships  to  take 
breaks,  or  temporary  inclosures  of  more  or  less  extent,  perha 
from  forty  to  two  hundred  and  fifty  acres,  and   keep  them 
tillage  for  five  or  six  years.     For  this  the  permission  of  the  t.01 
of  the  manor,  however,  is  necessary,  and  two  verdurL-fs  niui 
inspect,  who  report  to  the  Lord  Chief  Justice  in  Eyr#»,  that 
is  not  to  the  prejudice  of  the  king  or  subject;  and  they  are  at 
the  same  time  to  see  ihat  the  fences  are  not  such  &§  io  exclude  the 
Deer*    The 

MtNEUAi«ooY  of  Nottinghamshire,  ha^  nothing  particularly 
worthy  of  attention.     We  have  already  mentioned  the   articl 
of  coats  in  the   western  part  of  the  county  ;    these  are    b< 
coming  very  valuable  to  their  proprietors  from  the  increas 
sale  arising  from  the  facilities  of  water  carriage^  and  as  they 


IIOTTtHOHAMSHtllS, 


tre  now  both  cbeap  and  plentiful^  the  encouragement  to  lime-^ 
burning  will  naturally  increase  to  the  manifest  improyenient  of 
agriculture.  The  county  is  not  deficient  in  stone  of  vr^riouf 
kinds.  Very  exteufiive  quarries  of  a  reddish  stone,  in  iinmenf# 
blocks*  are  now  in  full  work  near  MansBeld,  and  there  is  a 
quarry  nearMan^^field  Woodhouse  now  worked  for  the  purpose! 
of  burning  as  lime,  but  which  is  so  extremely  beautiful,  of  a 
light  cream  colour  clo^e  in  the  grain^  and  extremely  hard, 
thai  it  would  be  highly  valuable  for  ornamental  buildinr;,  were 
it  not  that  its  extreme  hardtipss  would  raise  its  price  far  beyond 
that  of  Portland  intone* 

A  good  bluish  atone,  fit  for  building  ptirpose*?,  hast  been  for 
a  long  time,  dug  up  at  Maplebeck  ;  Newark  bridge  is  built  of 
it.  and  it  appears  to  improve  from  cjcposure  to  the  weather. 
But  there  b  no  county  in  the  kingdom  which  produces  such  a 
quantity,  and  at  the  same  time  such  a  variety  of  gyprntfif  ala» 
bastcr,  OTpUister  as  it  is  commonly  called  here.  The  pits  at 
Gothamj  Beacon  hill,  &c.  will  be  spoken  of  under  their  proper 
heads. 

Marie,  it  is  supposed^  might  be  found  in  considerable  quantitiei 
for  agp"! cultural  purposes,  if  that  mode  of  dressing  land  was 
once  introduced  ;  j;uch  veins  of  it  as  have  been  opened  by 
chance,  are  found  to  be  highly  calcareous,  and  might,  under 
judicious  management,  be  rendered  highly  beneficial.  There 
i&  no  county  in  England,  of  a  champaign  surface,  which  is  wa* 
tered  with  a  greater  variety  of 

Rivers^  affording  it  all  the  advantages  of  navigation  for 
commercial,  and  of  irrigation  for  agricultural  {wjrposes.  The 
principal  of  thrse  is  the 

Trent;  respecting  the  origin  of  whose  name,  a  variety  of 
eonjectureu  have  been  started.  Its  present  name  is  known,  or 
fltp/irttcfi?,  not  tn  be  older  ihan  the  Saxon  times,  and  antiquaries 
have  been  much  puzzled  at  its  not  being  mentioned  by  name 
by  any  of  the  Roman  writers;  in   fact  neither  by  Ptolemy, 

Strabf^, 


irOTTfKGHAM$!{ia£. 


Strabo,  nov  even  in  the  Ittnerary.     A  iaticifol  idea  had  indeed 
originated   from  the   brain   of  some  monk,    of  its  receiving 
Ihirty  tributary  streams,  being  therefore  called   Triginta,  and* 
that  being  changed  into   TrctUc  in  the  Norman   French ;  but 
this  is  too  dirosyeven   to  require   refutation.     That  a  river 
of  such  magnitude,  should  not  have   received  a  name  from  the 
Romans  is  incredible;  and  it  may  naturally  be  supposed^  what^ 
e¥er  that  name  was,  that  some  remains  of  it  shoutd  be  in  the 
present  appellation.     The  happiest  guess  of  this  kind  muy  be. 
seen  ia   the   thirtieth  vidume   of  the  Gentleman'*  Magaeine^^ 
page  65,  where  a  very  ingenious  writer  observes,  that  we  find 
in  a  note  of  the  Grammnrian  Seruius  upon  Virgil,  that  the  Tibet, 
in  one  part  of  the  city  of  Rome  had  the  name  of  "  Terentum'^ 
in  consequence  of  its  wearing  its  banks  from  the  rapidity  of  it 
course—*'  co  quod  rtpas  terat.** — Now  supposing  this  to  be  trtae^ 
and  that  the  Romans  might  probably  enough  have  given  ihej 
name  of  their  favourite  river,  (as  our  modern  discoverers  hav« 
done  in  several  instances)  to  this  one,  whose  beauty  they  could 
not  fail  to  be  struck  with,  for  it  is  not  likely  they  would  havtl 
left  it  without  a  mime,  then  the  etymology  of  its  present  ap*^ 
pellation  wotild  be  simple  and  un forced  * 

Another  idea  has  also  been  started  on  the  ground  of  looking 
for  its  etymology  in  the  ancient  Roman  name,  for  there  is' 
another  word  in  the  Latin  language,  which  is  as  good  a  word 
lor  conjecture,  and  cumes  even  nearer  to  it  in  sound;  this  is, 
TridcniuiH,  or  Tridanta,  from  whicli  Trent,  or  Trcont  as  in  the 
SaxoHj  might  easily  be  deduced. 

The:je  indeed  ure  only  conjectures ;  but  its  real  Roman  name, 
which  however  has  no  similarity  whatever  with  its  present  ap* 
pellation^  may  perhaps  be  traced  by  the  consideration,  that 
although  it  had  been  the  general  !!>upposition  ot  antiquaries  thai 
the  Roman  name  of  the  Humber  was  Ahus,  yel  Doctor  Gate ' 
seems  to  have  been  rather  fortunate  in  his  conjecture,  that  its 
real  name  was  Utub,  of  which  there  are  still  sor^^e  vestiges  in 
the  names  of  Isurium^  nnd  Ehuracum  the  modern  York:  the 

questioii 


MOTTIirCVHAMSIIiai:. 


99 


^ucUton  then  natural ty^  arises,  to  what  river  did  they  give  the 
name  o(  Abus  ,^why  t^  the  Inni^  says  our  etymologist,  and  even 
of  this  there  is  a  vestige  in  Appisthorpe,  or  Abu«^thorpe,  the 
town  on  the  Abus  near  Littleborough^  the  AgeioQum  of  the 
Romans. 
This*  is  certainly  a  conjecture  wbichj  on  a  minute  invesli- 
ation,  may  appear  to  be  well  founded  ;  and  is  at  least  well  de- 
erving  the  notice  of  antiquaries. 

The  river  it?ie If  has  been  considered  of  high  importance  as 
iarly  as  the  Contjuest  ;  for  it  is  recorded  in  Bom  esd  ay -book, 
llliat  "  in  Snotin^hamj  the  wtUer  qf  Trait  and  the  fosae  and  the 
ray  towards  York,  were  kept  so,  that  if  any  should  hinder 
y^t  pOMage  of  boats,  and  if  any  should  plow  or  make  a  ditch  on 
|the  King's  wayj  within  two  perchesj  he  should  make  amends 
Illy  Eight  pounds/' 

It  ranks  as  the  fourth  capital  riv^er  in  England^  being  only 
I  iur passed  by  this  Thames,  Severn,  and  Huinber  :  and  though 
[most  certainly  not  the  largest,  yet  it  may  be  said  tu  run  the 
[  kmfgfst  coarse  of  ajiy,  from  its  rising  neart^r  to  the  we^t  side  of 
[  the  kingdom  than  any  of  the  others. 

It  rises  near  Biddulph  in  the  Moorlands  of  Slaflrordshire>  re- 
ceiving from  Cheshire  and  Lancashirej  even  whilst  near  its 
llieail»  a  number  of  small  rivulets,   which  have  been  said  to 
tmount  to  Thirty  and  thence  its  name ;  but  this  is  futile^  for  the 
Saxon  name  of  Treonta  was  given,  long  before  the  introduction  of 
*  the  Norman  French  into  this  country.     It  soon  becomes  a  pretty 
large  river,  coming  down  from  the  hills  with  a  very  rapid  current, 
and  being  augmented  in  the  flat  country  by  the  accession  of  other 
rivers,  it  ilows  past  Trentham  to   which  it  gives  a  name^   and 
from  thence  Burton  in  Derbysliire,   when  it  Brst  becomes  navi- 
gable.     It  soon  after   enters   Nottinghamshire  near  RadcbtFe- 
^  iipon-Soor  in  a  clear  stream,  and  bold  rapi^l  current;  thence 
flowing  past  the  groves  of  Clifton,  it  winds  round  the  town  of 
Koltingham,  giving  fertility  to  an  immense  range  of  meadows^ 
flified  by  villas,   villages,  and  ccmfortabte  farms,  in  some 

places 


$0  totTlvokAkMiRi. 

filaces  sweeping  oyer  fertile  plains,  in  others  reflecting  oniu 
glossy  surfac!9>  high  spelling  kh(^\h,  and  green  feathered  cliflir 
that  add  to  the  sublimity  of  the  scene.  Its  scenery  roand 
Holme  Pierpoint  and  Radclifie  is  pleasing  in  the  extreme;  it 
then  proceeds  with  rather  a  tortuous  course  through  a  highly 
cultivated  country  towards  Kewarky  where  it  suddenly  takes  a 
bend  toward  the  North,  and  pursues  that  route  as  far  as  GliftonV 
tpon-Trent,  where  it  becomes  the  boundary  between  Nbtting^' 
luun  and  Lincolnshire^  and  passes  Gainsborough,  but  does  not 
leave  that  county  until  it  reaches  Heck  Dyke,  from  Whence  it 
proceeds,  after  a  courser  of  near  two  hundred  miles/  to  t!M 
Homber. 

At  Gainsborough,  abovft  eight  milcfs  before  Rsr  leaf  mg^  Ih^ 
bounty,  it  loses  th^  influence  of  the  tid6  which  iioWs  up  so* 
hr,  and  is  no  longer  navigable  for  vessels  of  any  gfoaC  btrthen  ^ 
ftal  vessels  of  a  flatter  construction  are  cottstatlUy  oddi)>ied  in 
k  as  hig^  up  as  Burtofc.  its  navigMionis  inde^  of  socfar 
importance  to  the  country  ift  hrge,'  in  eooMqu^nce  of  th^ 
tiumerous  coromunicatkms  which  it  forms  with  other  rivers  and 
canals,  that  every  means  have  beeir  taktiWtO'aflford  it  alt  the 
facilities  possible.  For  this  purpose  it  htti  a  sid^  cut  of  teif 
Ibiles  in  length,  in  order  to  avoid  twenty-one  shoals*  Whtclr 
occur  in  little  more  than  thirteen  miles  of  its  course  b^tweei^ 
Trent  bridge  at  the  commencement  of  the  Nottingham' canal/ 
and  Sawley  Ferry  at  the  commencement  of  the  Trent  and 
Mersey  canal.  This  side  cut,  which  is  sometimes  called  the 
TYeru  Canal,  has  a  rise  of  twenty-eight  feet;  and  it  n6t  only 
crosses  and  is  connected  with  the  Erwash  canal  near  Sawley, 
but  has  also  a  short  cut  and  lock  into  the  Trent  at  Beeston/ 

The  Erwash  is  but  little  connected  with  the  county,-  merely 
^ming  the  boundary  on  the  soutl^west  for  about  ten  or 
twelve  miles  between  Nottingham  and  Berbyshires/  and  falls' 
into  the  Trent  near  Thrumpton. 

The  Soar  is  more  to  the  southward,  constttutinj^  a  partial 

boundary  between  this  county  and  Leicestershire,  but  has 

nothing  particularly  worthy  of  notice. 

f  Besides 


JrOTTilfCUAMSliiaE* 


31 


Besides  these>  there  are  some  smaller  streams  M^hicti  have 
t>een  accurately  <lf  linealed  by  a  native  antiquary  ;*  who  tells 
tti  that  on  the  forest  nide  of  the  county  there  are  hvc  fine 
streams  which  cross  from  west  to  «asi,  almost  parallel  to  eacli 
Olher^  and  after wrards  turn  to  the  north  and  form  the  River  Idk* 

The  first  of  these  is  Rainworth  water  which  rises  near  New- 
tiead  Abbeyj  runs  to  Inklesall  dam  and  Hutlbrd,  and  joins  the 
Maun^l  Ollerton. 

The  Maun,  or  Man,  riscft  in  the  forest  between  Kirkby  and 
Newstcad,  and  runs  by  Mansfield,  Clipsitone,  and  Hdwmstowi 
loOllerlon. 

The  Medcfi  rises  in  the  forest  near  Sutton  Hard  wick,  and 
runs  by  Budby  through  Thoresby  Park ;  it  joins  the  Maun  near 
Palethorpe^  and  from  this  junciion  the  two  rirers  take  the 
miTne  of  The  idle* 

The  WtHten  runs  through  Wclbcck  Park,  and  after  receiving 
the  Poulter  from  Langwith,  through  Cackney,  by  Carburton, 
and  thence  through  Clumber  Park  into  the  Idle  near  ElkesUy* 

The  Worktop  riv«*r  runs  from  Worksop  by  Scofton,  Bilby, 
and  Scruoby,  and  enters  into  the  Idle  at  Bawtry. 

The  IdU^  after  asHuming  that  name,  runs  m  a  courne  nearly 
itortb,  by  Haughion  Park,  through  Retford  towards  Mattersey  • 
thence  north-west  to  Bawtry,  where  it  takes  an  easltrn  course 
past  Mistson,  and  traversing  the  Car  falls  into  the  Trent  near 
ili  junction  with  the  Chesterfield  canal,  in  the  nurth  east  angle 
«f  the  county* 

There  arc  two  others  north  of  Trent  which  run  in  a 
southerly  direction. 

The  Lcn€  rises  near  the  source  of  the  Maun  between  Kirkby 
and  Newstead :  runs  through  Ncwstead  Park,  by  Papplewick, 
BulwelL  Basford,  Leiiton,  and  thence  into  the  Trent,  by  Not- 
imghum  bridge*  It  will  be  treated  of  more  particularly  in  the 
description  of  that  towa* 

Dover  or  Iktre  beck  runs  from  near  Bludworth  by  Oxton, 


Cakcrion> 


'  Sk«tcb  Qi  Sherwood  fore»V  ^J  oa'^jot  Hajmsa  Hookc 


HOTTIMOBAMSillfte 


Calverton^  Eperst^Ot  Lowdbam^  and  ibmce  mm  lit  T^oft  hf 

Caythorpe  near  Ilovet  ingham. 

Alt  these  may  be  considered  u  Uilwiftiig  i»  the  fatmL 
South  of  Trtsnt  there  are  many  small  rif^en  wkidi  take  lh€ff 
riie  in  the  wold^^  and  convey  their  tfitntagj  utewtoibM 
riven  hut  none  of  them  require  parttctilsr  twCke* 

Wiih  such  facilrtici^  of  inland  coromnakaCM  k  n  qoI  tobe- 
supposed  that 

Canals  have  been  neg1<?cted ;  in  fbctw^fiai  l^attingliam- 
shire  as  well  supplied  in  that  xnnde  o(  cowmmtmAmmrtnunm  9B 
hny  county  in  the  kingdom. 

The  Noit ingham  Canal  in  some  measure  csaoiA  ike  prece- 
dence ;  it£  general  course  being  about  fifle«B  aUct  ikroygh  the 
county  in  a  norih-westdirectton»  but  not  exactly  ia  a  right  liite^ 
Itcoiiiniences  In  the  river  Trent,  and  proceeds  t<»  (be  Cromfbrd 
canal  near  Langley  bridge,  very  near  to  the  lenniDation  of  lh« 
Ervvash  canal ;  and  it  is  also  connected  with  the  side  cut  itx^m 
the  Trent  and  Mersey  navigation,  called  generally  the  Trent 
canals  which  enlers  near  its  southern  limit.  Its  bed  is  not 
greatly  elevated,  and  its  supply  la  principally  from  the  n^er  ^ 
however  to  gitard  against  deficiencies  of  water  in  dry  seasons, 
a  reservoir  hut  been  made  near  Arnswtrch,  with  a  self  regulating 
sluice,  which  lets  off  above  3000  cubic  feel  of  water  per  hour 
for  the  use  of  some  mills  in  its  neighbourhood,  and  also  for  tho 
Er  wash  cans  I.  This  navigation  was  finished  in  1803;  and  the 
principal  object  of  its  undertakers  were  the  expoK  of  agrtcu)*- 
lural  produce,  and  of  coals  from  the  various  mines  in  its  vicimiy, 
together  with  the  importation  of  jinie^  timber,  and  other  heavy 
articles. 

The  Grantham  Canal  is  also  connectetlwith  the  Trent,  com« 
mencing  near  Holme  Pier  point,  and  having  a  branch  upwards 
of  three  miles  in  lengthy  leading  to  liw;  town  of  Bingham*  The 
system  of  lot  kage  on  that  part  of  the  line  whicb  is  in  thi^ 
county  is  very  extensive  ^  for  on  the  rise  of  the  wolds  from  ihe 
Trent  \o  Cromwell  Bishop,   in  a   line  of  only   six  miles  and 

a  half. 


190TTlYI61lANSIIiae. 


33 


a  ba1f«  there  is  a  gradual  elevaiicm  of  eighty-two  feet;  but 
from  Cropwell  to  Stainwith,  closes  there  is  a  dead  level  of 
twenty  tniles.  The  proprietors  of  the  Trent  river  navigation 
having  been  at  a  eonsiJerable  expense  in  deepening  the  rivef 
tie«r  to  the  entrance  of  this  cana),  they  are  intitled  to  take  c^t* 
taia  tolls  on  all  goods  passing  from  this  to  the  Nottingham 
canal ;  which  have  of  late  years  risen  to  a  considerable  amount* 
In  1793  it  was  in  contemplation  to  have  farmed  a  junction  be* 
tween  this  and  Newark  and  Bottesford  canal  near  Stainwith, 
which  would  have  made  a  complete  line  of  water  communica- 
tion between  the  souih-eastern  part  of  Nottinghamshire  and  the 
adjoining  country* 

The  Idle  River  Canal  must  not  pass  unnoticed^  although  it 
is  more  properly  a  Hver  navigation  th;in  a  c«/.  It  commences 
nt  Bawtry,  and  runs  nearly  east  for  ten  miles  along  the  nortiiern 
verge  of  the  county.  In  one  part  ofits  course  it  has  the  name 
of  By  car  Dyke  ;  and  about  half  a  mile  fi-ora  Stock  with,  where 
it  joins  the  Trent,  (dose  to  the  junction  of  the  Chesterfield  canal 
witli  th>it  river)  is  Misterton  Sas  or  Sluice  which  has  an  open- 
ing of  ^venteeu  feet  eight  inches,  with  two  lock  doors  or  gates 
Biicteen  feet  high  opening  to  the  Trent*  for  the  purpose  of  keep* 
ing  the  floods  out  of  the  low  lands  through  which  this  river 
flows. 

But  the  mo«t  important  water  communication  ita  the  northern 
district  of  the  county,  is  the  Chesterfield  Canal,  which  com* 
mences  In  Derbyshire  close  to  that  town,  and  enters  Notting- 
hamshire hear  Shire  Oaks,  thence  by  Worksop  through  the 
oorthern  limits  of  Sherwood  forest  in  a  circuitous  direction  by 
Babworth  to  Retford*  where  it  changes  its  course  suddenly  to 
the  north,  passing  through  Welham,  Haylon,  Clarborough, 
and  Clayworthi  by  Wiieton  Hallt  Evertun^  and  Drakelow^ 
where  it  run^  through  a  tunnel  of  two  hundred  and  fifty  yards* 
and  the  nee  round  G  ring  ley  on  the  hili  m  a  north  eu^t  direction 
through  Misson  Car  lo  Misterton*  across  Walkeringham  moor^ 
and  thence  into  the  Trent  at  Stbckwith*     The  advantages  which 

VouXIL  C  .  have 


S4 


mtfrnwcmAu^mnm^ 


hate  already  resulted  irom  this  litie  of  coaii 
Bcmibly  feJt  throttgh  the  whole  of  tliH  district* 

The  whole  line  of  this  canal  is  about  forty  miles;  ffoa  Chei- 
tcrfield  it  riaes  abool  forty-fire  fen  until  it  reaches  KoHi'<oi» 
both  in  Berbyfthire,  and  from  thence  to  the  Trent  it  has  ft  fe* 
gular  fall  of  three  hundred  and  thirty-five  feet. 

The  RoADii  of  Noctinghdmshire  are  generally  in  very  ^9oA 
order.  It  i<  needless  to  mention  that  fx>rtion  of  the  Cfremt  Nonk 
HimkI  which  runs  through  the  county  from  Newark  to  Bmt- 
try  ;  but  it  is  but  justice  to  the  couruy  at  large  to  »y  tbttt  iJie 
whole  of  the  roads  through  it  are  nearly  in  as  good  order  as  emn 
t»o&8ibly  be  expected,  from  the  hottoms  on  which  they  are 
formed,  and  the  maicriaU  which  can  be  procured  for  their  for- 
Datton  and  preservation.  Much  of  this  has  arisen  from  the 
various  parishes  h;iTing  taken  up  the  business  with  a  determi* 
nation  to  see  it  well  executed,  and  from  the  public  spint  of 
the  gentry  and  the  better  order  of  farmers  who  have  sedulo<ii«1y 
undertaken  the  office  of  surveyors,  instead  of  leaving  k  to  9om0 
careless  contractor,  whose  sole  object  was  to  finish  a  certaon 
number  of  perches  of  road,  without  any  regard  to  its  fitne^sa  to 
endure  even  the  next  winter  f^eason. 

In  some  places  indeed^  particularly  in  the  coal  districts,  and 
in  the  clays,  the  carnage  of  a  heavy  article,  and  the  want  of  a 
good  bottom,  have  formed  a  few  exceptions ;  and  in  the  forest 
district  alsO)  there  arc  some  places,  particularly  between  Ret- 
ford and  Worksop,  and  again  between  Worksop  and  Warsop> 
where  a  heavy  sand  forms  an  almost  insurmountable  obatacle 
to  the  et^tablishment  of  a  convenient  line  of  road.  The  first  of 
theat  being  m  the  direct  line  of  road  from  Gainsborough  to 
Sii«aicld  ,  it  ou^ht  to  be  an  object  with  the  county  to  amend  it 
If  possible ;  but  with  respect  to  the  latter,  the  sands  are  too  deep 
perhaps  ever  to  admit  of  amelioration.  To  avoid  the  worst 
part  of  this  road,  the  duke  of  Purtland,  in  some  instances,  per* 
rntts  curriuges  to  pass  through  bis  park;  but  with  respect  to  th« 
road  itself,  the  editor  of  these  sheets  can  give  no  belter  idea 

cbati 


KOtTIKOHAMSQim. 


35 


than  in  statbg  the  fact,  that  in  the  autuoma)  seasoHj  eteii  after 
Home  slight  rain  had  fallen  to  fix  the  sands,  he  was  three  hours 
going  from  Worksop  to  Church  Warsop  in  a  post  chaise, 
though  the  distance  is  only  eight  miles !  It  is  perhaps  not  to  be 
expected  that  any  rapid  amelioration  can  take  place  in  these 
landy  roads,  on  account  of  the  enormous  expense  which  woutd 
attend  the  transport  gf  lime  and  gravel,  or  other  materials  ;  but 
with  respect  to  the  roads  in  the  clay  district,  the  following  hints 
from  the  author  of  the  late  Agricultural  Survey  of  the  County 
may  not  be  misplaced.  He  states  that  the  most  approved  sys- 
tem of  forming  new  roads  on  clay  or  wet  bottoms,  is  first  to 
throw  the  soil  from  ibe  sides,  leaving  a  groove  in  ihe  middle 
for  the  materials,  beginning  with  brush-wood  laid  on  plentifully^ 
over  which  must  be  depoiiited  a  sufficient  quantity  of  stones  and 
gravel.  If  the  gravel  is  very  sharp  and  good,  he  thinks  there 
is  no  necessity  to  round  the  road.  He  also  asserts  that  a  con- 
cap€  surface  has  been  found  to  answer  very  well;  but  still  ac- 
knowledgea  that  where  the  materials  are  tender;  it  may  be 
better  to  round  it  a  little,  though  not  so  much  as  is  generally 
done,  as  that  is  oft*in  dangerous  and  always  hurtful  to  the  road, 
by  obliging  carriages  to  keep  one  track,  and  thus  cut  it  up  in 
deep  ruts. 

The  numerous  impfovements  in  the  inland  navigation  of  this 
connty,  have  tended  much  to  the  increase  of  its 

Commerce,  of  which  a  gogd  idea  may  be  formed  by  a  brief 
entimeratioo  of  the  various  articles  of  export  and  import  on  the  , 
various  lines  of  water*carriage. 

The  eiportf  which  pass  either  from  or  through  the  county, 
and  in  cither  rase  form  a  very  lucrative  business  for  many 
thousands  of  the  population,  are  lead,  copper,  coals,  and  salt 
troui  Derbyshire  and  Cheshire ^  StalTordshire  ware  in  consider- 
able quantities;  lime  and  limestone  for  agricultural  purposea; 
chirt  stone  for  the  glass  manufactories j  coarse  earthen  wares; 
pig  iron  and  cast  metal  goods ;  oak  timber  and  bark  ;  and 
sail-cloth* 

C2  The 


J6  .]fiief«i««HAVi«nti. 

Theimporte  iat  fMon^  cottsninptioiit  fttid  for  the  suf^ply  of 
Ae  netg^booring  d&trictsi.  are  timber*  heiiip»  flax  alid  iron 
.  from  tht  nortbeim  puts  of  Borope ;  mtlt»  com,  and  flour ;  |pro- 
tbrifctof  all  kinds;  Wiiliei  and  spinta^  cotton  wool,  abd  yarli; 
hrfgt  quantitiet  6f  flintB  from  NorthfleM  and  the  various  chalk- 
fi^  nesLT  the  Thames,  for  the  use  bf  the  Staffordshire  potteries ; 
arid  ih  short  all  species  of  riw  materials  for  inland  manu- 
factures.    The    . 

MaWu^acturbb  of  Ithe  cotsnty  are  updn  a. scale  equally  ex- 
tensive* T\ieMiockmgf^uak^fkeiory  hks  L6ng  beeh  a  staple>  and 
is  the  mbstancledt  mannfactilTO  of  the  county;  it  is  to  be  la* 
ikkented  howeverv  that  the  partial  atbppage  of  cfKportatlon  from 
the  ^leaent  eilslavied  state  of  the  Continent,  hiid  the  nlachi- 
aations  of  somis  . designing  chariicters,  havd  .lately  pirodticed 
aeetoea  of.riot  ahd  outrage  disgraceful  (fo  these  coAcerkied  in 
dMm,  and  highly  injaribbs  to  the  cbunty  at  large*  The  par- 
ticulan  of  this  manufacture  will  be  entered  inlo'more  fully^  in 
tie  descriptioh  of  Nottia|;hamw 

Cbiioii  MUb  hare  now  become  a  coniaderabM  branch  of  ma- 
tmfiBictdre  firom  th^ir  connection  with  the  atocking  trade.  Theie 
have  also  undertaken  to  produce  a  supply  of  cotton  twist  for 
the  Manchester  trade.  In  the  town  of  Nottingham  alone  there 
are  too  less  than  eight  of  these  establishments;  at  Mansfield 
there  are  three ;  at  Papplewick  and  Linby^  six  $  at  Newark, 
two;  besides  others  at  Worksop,  Redfbrd,  Sduthwell,  &c.  &c. 
t6  the  number  of  twelve  or  thilrteen ;  and  four  establishments  of 
worsted  mills. 

The  MieUiing  bunmts  k  another  lucrative  branch,  principally 
at  Nottingham*  Newark,  and  Mansfield ;  and  this  is  both  for  the 
home  consumption,  aad  elpottation  to  the  counties  in  the  vicinity. 

The  Bretvtries  at  Nottingham  and  Newark  are  also  objects 
of  great  importance;  at  the  latter  place  in  particular,  they  cota- 
sidered  themselves  as  powerful  rivals  of  the  Burton  brewers, 
and  th^ir  foreign  trade  was  very  considerable  previous  to  the 
present  circumscribed  state  of  continental  commerce. 

Silk 


KOTTiyGIIAMSHIRE. 


37 


Uik  millM  have  been  rstablished  at  Nottinghami  to  be  worked 
by  horses ;  for  though  there  is  so  much  water  round  that  town, 
yet  the  frequent  floods  preclude  all  possibility  of  em  ploying 
water  mills,  except  by  the  adoption  of  a  principle  which  we 
shall  notice  in  its  proper  place. 

The  Thread  and  BritUk  Lace  manufactures  have  long  been 
carried  on  upon  an  extensive  scale  ;  but  the  unfortunate  fond^ 
ness  for  French  and  Brussels  lace«  though  even  much  of  that  is 
BriiUh  lac€  Jiowcred  and  ornamented  on  the  Continent*  has 
always  operated  against  that  due  encouragement  which  the  io" 
dustry  of  our  own  manufacturers  and  our  owtt  woiking  poor, 
ought  to  receive  from  the  fashionable  and  the  opuknt. 

PQiierUs  of  co^^rse  red  earthen  wme  have  been  established 
with  some  success  at  Sutton  in  Ashfield  A  starch  manufactory 
is  now  at  work  at  Upton  near  Southwell,  A  $mklotk  manufac- 
tory has  long  been  in  a  flourishing  condition  at  Heiford ;  and  a 
dying  <^wi  bleaching  (rude  has  been  attempted  with  considi^r* 
able  success  both  at  Nottingham  and  Newark.  Cojisidcnible 
sums  have  been  annually  received  at  Mansfield  by  the  stcne 
trade;  suid  there  is  also  something  done  there  in  the  manufai;-* 
tnre  of  anlficial  stone. 

The  flourishing  state  of  the  county  of  Nottingham  may  per* 
hapkS  be  most  accurately  proved  from  the  progressive  increase 
ofiu 

Population. — At  the  close  of  the  seventpenth  century,  tht 
number  of  houses  in  the  county  were  17|6^4;  and  the  inhabi* 
taiils  were  estimated  at  105,300, 

In  1801,  there  were  found  to  be  08,558  males,  and  71,792 
femalesi  amounting  to  140,350  in  all;  35,513  of  whom  were 
f  oiployed  in  different  manufactures  and  la  trade,  and  93^904  tn 
the  variotis  branches  of  agriculture* 

By  the  recent  parliamentary  returns  it  appears  that  the  in- 
crease of  population  has  been  considerable;  males  79,057;  fe- 
males 83,843:  forming  a  total  of  162,900,  and  an  increase  of 
«,580- 


C3 


We 


dk  VOTTIVOHAMftHUtE. 

•  We  have  already  made  some  obderratkms  on  the  size  of  the 
fetrms  in  this  county,  all  of  which  are  upon  a  moderate  scale ; 
and  we  most  again  rerert  to  that  subject  in  our  consideration 
6f  the 

Poor  and  Poor's  Rates. — As  these  are  in  a  great  measure 
c!erroborative>  in  this  county,  of  the  general  principles  there 
adverted  to. 

Eden,  in  his  very  nsefel  work  on  the  state  of  th«  poor  through- 
out  the  kingdom,  speaking  of  a  parish  in  a  neighbouring  county, 
but  bordering  close  upon  Nottinghamshire,  says,  that  many 
people  of  this  parish  attribute  the  rise  in  the  poor's  rates  to  the 
enclosure  of  the  common  fields;  because,  say  they,  before  the 
enclosure  took  place,  farms  were  then  from  ten  to  forty-pounds 
p.er  annum,  and  any  person  could  then  rent  a  small  tenement ; 
bat  now  the  parish  being  mostly  thro^vn  into  large  ihrms,  it  re- 
i|uires  a  very  considerable  capital  to  stock  one.  This  eircum- 
atance  reduces  therefore  numbers  to  the  necessity  of  living  in  a 
state  of  servile  dependence  on  the  large  farmers ;  aiid  as  they 
have  no  prospect  to  which  their  hopes  can  reasonably  look  for- 
ward, their  industry  is  checked,  economy  is  deprived  <^f  its 
greatest  stimulant,  ^qd  their  only  thought  is  how  to  enjoy  the 
present  moment ! 

Let  us  now  look  at  the  state  of  the  poor  in  Nottinghamshire, 
where  large  farms  are  fortunately,  as  yet,  almost  unknown. 
A  very  faithful  picture  of  them  has  been  drawn  by  Mr.  Lowe 
in  his  agricultural  view  of  the  county,  which  having  been  found 
correct,  as  far  a^  a  cursory  survey  would  admit  of,  we  shall 
venture  to  take  it  as  our  ground  work.  He  tells  uq.  and  that 
too  with  justice,  that  there  are  few  counties  in  England  where 
the  poor  will  be  found  better  lodged,  clothed  or,  fed,  or  better 
provided  wit|i  fu^i.^    IVf  ost  cottages  have  a  garden,  a^d  potatoe 

ganb, 

*  In  this  the  manu/aeturing  poor  mo«t  be  eicepfed ;  for  here  as  in  all  pfber 
placei,  they  have  that  syitein  of  luxarious,  yet  brutish,  indulgence,  and  tiiat 
slatternly  poverty,  which  must  always  l^ef  p  (heq^  in  abject  p^ory,'  and  iQ 
pUfiOit  absolute  vohmtmry  wipt  I 


iroTTtKOHAMtnrEE* 


39 


garths  akid  few  of  them  are  wiihoot  a  web  of  cloth  of  their  own 
jtptnning;  many  of  thenrij  partkularly  in  the  cTaysnave  a  few 
acres  of  land  annexed  to  their  cottages,  and  are  thereby  ena* 
bled  to  keep  a  cow  in  addition  to  their  pigs  ;  and  here  too  the 
poor  may  be  actually  said  to  be  industrious,  for  here  they  are 
oflen  seen  themitelves^  as  well  as  their  children,  employed  at 
their  leisure  hours  in  cojlecttng  the  horse  dung  from  the  public 
roadsf  either  for  the  use  of  their  own  gardens  or  to  sc\h* 

Now  the  consequences  of  all  ibis,  if  not  ohvioui,  are  at  leaiit 
certain ;  for  here  in  general  the  rates  do  not  run  so  high  as  in 
other  counties  where  manufactures  have  formerly  flourished, 
though  now  gone  to  decay ;  but»  adds  Mr.  Lowe,  at  the  same 
time,  it  is  a  matter  of  concern  lo  observe,  that  the  manufactures, 
particularly  that  of  stockings,  uhtist  ihey  increase  the  popula- 
tion, increase  at  the  same  time  tlie  burthen  of  the  poor's  rate  on 
the  occupiers  of  land  ;  which  may  be  ascribed  to  the  lower  ma- 
nafacturers  too  frec^uently  spending  all  their  earnings,  without 
looking  forward  to  a  time  of  old  age  and  infirmity. 

As  a  remedy  for  this  evil  in  the  mun^faciuving  part  of  the 
county,  IVlju  Lowe  ver^  properly  reconinitinds  the  extension 
of  friendly  societies*  or  the  making  some  more  competent  pro- 
vision by  the  legislature  on  the  same  principle;  but  we  fear  that 
unlil  the  nature  of  mankind  is  altered,  no  radical  cure  will 
ever  be  found  for  the  eyil  amongst  the  m<^tutfacturing  poor, 
though  much  may  certainly  be  dane  pi  tl^e  way  of  regulation ; 
perhaps  by  premioma  to  tbo^  who  have  brought  up  the  lar- 
gest families  without  parochial  assistance  ;  by  Tontines  on  the 
principles  of  collection  established  in  Friendly  Societies;  and 
£veo  by  encouraging  those  clubs  where  money  is  coJIccied  for 
tjie  purchase  of  various  useful  but  expensive  articles  of  furm- 
turc;  and  where  each  member's  chance  of  possessing  the  month- 
ly prize  is  determined  by  what  is  generally  termed  a  rqj^e.  All 
these  vt\\\  tend  to  produce  a  spirit  of  economy  ;  and  some  of 
them  may  in  the  end  be  highly  beueficial    and  lucrative  to  in- 

C  4  dividuals; 

•  AgricuIluraJ  Sttrvey,  p.  140* 


40 


aOTTITCGHAVSHTUS* 


di?idaaU ;  but  jperhaps  the  speediest  and  most  nseful  reform, 
both  as  a  temporary  and  as  a  lasting  expedient,  would  be  the  re- 
moval of  the  manufaciorerft  pay  faW«  from  the  public  houses. 
This  would  take  away  from  the  poor  mauuiUcturer  the  temptit* 
tion  lo  driak,  because  it  would  check  the  landlord  in  hi^t  syi^H 
tern  of  gi?ing  credit*  and  it  would  save  the  sober  indu&trioifl^l 
muLhanic  from  the  abwlute  necessity  he  is  always  under  of 
spending  part  of  bis  money  in  the  alehouse  on  pay  nights,  even 
although  he  should  not  have  incurred  any  debts  there  throug] 
the  week. 

The  agricultural  will  always  indeed  have  advantages  over  t 
manufacturing  poor;  but  much  will  depend  on  the  difTerence 
habits,  for  the  advantage  of  wages  h  always  on  the  side  of  t 
latter. 

The  farming  labourer  haa  seldom  in  this  county  been  in  the 
receipt  of  more  ihaii  eighteen  pence  per  day,  though  in  the 
harvest  months  it  may  amount  to  a  couple  of  shillings.  The 
hours  of  labour  for  this,  are  the  common  ones  in  general  use; 
but  if  the  labourer  undertakes  task  work^  he  may  increase  bis 
gaUit  by  a  little  industry  without  injuring  or  over  fatiguing 
himself.  His  provisions  are  rather  moderate  ihan  otherwise  j 
and  his  fuel  may  always  be  had  reasonable  since  the  extension 
of  water  carriage.  Upon  the  %hole  we  may  consider  the  poor 
of  this  county  as  comparatively  comfortabk,  though  much  yet 
remains  to  be  done,  both  by  themselves,  and  by  those  of  the 
higher  orders  who  may  think  it  a  more  charitable  act  ioprfttni 
poverty  by  encouraging  economy  and  industry,  than  to  relieve 
it  even  with  larger  sums,  where  it  might  have  been  avoided,  by 
a  little  prudent  circumspection.  Much  of  the  comfort  of  the 
agricultural  Poor  must  depend*  as  has  been  before  observed, 
upon  the  division  of  laijd  ;  and  even  their  number  must  be  much 
smaller  where  the  farms  are  small,  than  where  those  who  would 
have  been  farmers  have  no  other  mode  of  support  than  becom* 
ing  the  labourers  of  the  rich  overgrown  capitalist,  who  regards 
them  no  longer  than  they  are  useful  lo   him*      We  mean  not 

thti. 


lI0TTltaOHAlf9IIIRl. 


41 


this,  howerer  as  a  general  ar gutnent  against  large  farms ;  they 
have  their  advanfagei^,  and  it  must  even  be  curifessed  that  in 
maiiy  parts  of  the  kingiiom^  smaH  farms  woukl  be  intinitely  less 
product! re,  acre  for  acre,  than  large  ones.  What  we  wlah  to 
enter  a  caveat  against  is  merely  ihat  system  of  aniting  many 
fanns  into  one,  which  in  many  places  has  swept  away  whole 
hamlets*  nay  villages,  where  the  residences  of  honest  cheer- 
ful industry  have  actually  been  levelled  with  the  dust,  and  no- 
thing been  left,  hot  the  solitary  church,  to  mark  that  here  had 
been  the  habilafion  of  men;  whilst  the  few  un forty nate  villa* 
gers  that  are  unable  to  emigrate,  or  not  old  and  helplessS  enough 
to  gain  admission  into  the  workhouse,  are  crowded  into  rows  of 
improved  collages,  as  they  are  called,  and  ranged  like  cattle 
in  a  stall  wit  hoot  even  a  slip  of  garden  ground  to  jioface  a  tarn* 
mer*s  evening.  Bat  even  where  large  farmj*  are  necessary,  even 
this  evil  might  be  partially  avoided,  in  regulating  the  new 

Inclosuhes.^As  by  a  due  attention  to  the  probable  number 
of  labouring  poor  in  each  parish,  a  sufficient  number  of  small 
slips  of  one  or  two  acres  each  mi^lu  be  enclosed  for  the  purpose 
ofraising  cottages  and  forming  g^artlcn  ground  for  the  agricultural 
poof»  an  arrangement  lending  not  only  to  their  benefit,  but  al- 
so to  the  advantage  of  the  farmers  themselves,  as  it  would  be  an 
additional  stimulus  to  industry,  would  excite  an  emulation 
amongst  the  labourers  to  become  possessed  of  these  small  ad- 
vantages, and  would  soon  be  sensibly  felt  In  the  diminution  of 
poor's  rates.  It  has  indeed  Ue^n  objected  that  small  portions  of 
ground  given  to  the  poor  will  make  them  too  independent,  and 
render  them  unwilling  to  work  for  the  ftirmer;  but  the  man 
who  can  thus  coolly  object  to  the  comfort  of  his  fellow  crea- 
tures, from  an  idea,  and  we  believe  a  mistaken  one  too,  of  his 
own  interest,  denervesnoi  an  answer! 

With  respect  to  the  principles  and  practice  of  Inclosurca   in 

this  county,  it  is  not  to  be  2$up posed  that  a  summer  Tourist  can 

have  witnessed  their  progress,  but    must  judge  of  them  rather 

by  their  actual  state.     In  this  re pect,  however,  we  believe  that 

9  thtt 


M 


XOTTlH6HilM5fI11lB. 


the  Notiinghamshire  iiiclasurca  bare  not  btea  producUvt  af 
evils;  they  are  now,  and  have  been  for  some  time,  gviog  on 
with  great  rapidity ;  the  apfilicatious  to  parltatnent^  vvery 
mssionsif  are  numerous,  and  ihey  have  bad  the  effect  of  raiamg 
•  tbt;  value  of  bnd  very  conaiilerably  wherever  tbey  have  taken 
l|>lacei  In  fact  there  is  now  vtrry  little  left  to  tnctose,  exce|>t 
ktome  tracts  on  the  western  side,  and  about  the  middle  of  tbr 
I'fbrest.  These  are  at  present  mostly  rabbit  warrens,  and  seem 
[•fit  for  rery  little  else;  indeed  we  understand  that  portions  of 
hthese  tracts  have  been  taken  into  cultivation,  but  suBered  again 
I  |o  run  waste  from  their  being  totally  unproductive.  That  this 
rotinty  has  for  acme  years  been  in  a  progressive  state  of 
Improvement  is  evident  even  to  the  passing  stranger  ;  but 
klhcre  are  some  facts  recorded  by  Mr,  Lowe  in  his  survey,  which 
I  prove  it  indubitably.  One  instance  in  particular  is  conclusive. 
[He  tells  us  that  about  thirty  years  ago,  the  sand  lands  in  Gress* 
•Iborp,  Cromwell,  and  Muskham  BeUU,  all  on  the  great  north 
I  road  between  Newark  and  Retford,  were  not  worth  more  than 
Itwo  shillings  and  sixpence  per  acre,  covered  with  wild  sorrel, 
litnd  lea  lay  for  six  or  seven  years.  Now  they  produce  from 
I  eight  to  ten  quarters  of  remarkably  fine  oaU!  per  acre ;  and 
lib  is  entirely  cilected  by  turnips  and  clover. 

Much  improvement  may  also  be  expected  in  future  from  the 

Itention  now  paid  to  draining.      In   the  new   inclusure   tills, 

drains  are  ordered  by  the  commissioners,  and  provision  made 

»r  their  being  properly  kept  up,  which  has  already  been  found 

|to  be  more  encctual  than  the  old  laws  of  Sewers,  of  the  neglect 

the  execution  of  wbich  there  have  been  great  complaints  in 

iKottinghamsbire,  as  well  as  in  the  neighbouring  counties.^ 

The  Archit£cture  of  the  county  will  be  best  described  un- 

'dcr  the  various  heads,  and  there  is  peih^ips  no  county  in  the 

kingdom  that  displays  a  greater  variety,  principally  modem  ; 

indeed  we  may  assert  that  Nottinghamshire  contains  the  reai* 

dences 

♦  Agricultural  Sarvey,  p.  98. 


HOTTIKGHAMSfiiaS* 


43 


j^nc^s  of  more  nf  the  nobility  and  gentry  than  any  other  of  iu 
Me:  In  what  may  be  calltrd  agriailiurttl  architeclurt,  however, 
great  improvements  have  «)f  late  year^  bi^en  maUo,  through  the 
Tery  patriotic  exertions  of  several  gentlemen  of  the  county«  who 
have  (bus  not  only  ornamented  but  improved  their  estates,  and 
m  some  measure  corrected  au  existing  evil;  that  i»,  ill e  farm 
houi€ft  in  most  parts  being  chiefly  situated  in  villages,  and  often 
at  a  distance  from  the  farms.  Great  improvements  have  aUo 
been  made  in  the  farming  ofiices,  which  not  coming  immedintely 
within  the  plan  of  a  work  of  this  irature,  we  must  refer  for  fur- 
ther inforoiattun  to  Mr.  Lowe's  survey. 

In  EccLiisi\sTtCAL  AftcntTECTUBE,  there  are  many  elegant 
specimens  of  the  antique,  particubriy  in  St,  Mary's  church  in 
Nottingham,  the  colbgiate  church  at  Southwell  Newark 
churchy  the  church  of  Rudford  witli  the  abbey  gate  near  Work- 
sop«  and  several  others  which  will  be  auiiced  in  ihcir  proper 
places. 

Of  Ahcient  Sei'ulchral  MoNVMESiTs, however,  the  num- 
ber is  but  limited  ;  for,  with  the  exception  of  the  Furnival  and 
Lowetoi  monuments  at  Radford,  there  are  nono  older  than  the 
|4th  century,  of  which  period,  Mr.  Gough  even  with  liis  ac- 
curate research  could  discover  but  six  cross-legged  figures  of 
crufiaders:  one  of  which  is  atFliaiham^  and  belongs  to  the  Hus^ 
aeys*  but  who  wrre  not  in  possession  of  that  manor  l>efore  the 
eighth  of  Edward  tlie  third,  so  that  its  dale  cauoot  he  anLeriof 
lo  ISSi, 

We  have  but  little  to  observe  on  the  subject  of 

Zoology,  as  Nottinghamshire  ha^  no  particular  genus  of 
animals  of  any  kind  except  the  old  /oral  (freed  qf  sheep,  which 
are  described  as  a  small  polled  breed  (though  some  are  horned) 
with  grey  faces  and  legs :  the  fleeces  run  from  thirteen  to 
eighteen  to  the  tod  of  twenty -eight  pounds;  and  the  carcases 
mhen  hi  are  from  seven  io  nine  pounds  per  quarter.  This 
breed,  however,  mf^y  be  expected  to  he  soon  worn  out,  as  the 
Farious  crosses  have  been  found  to  improve  both  carcase  and 
6  fleece 


4#  «OTTlKOEtAM»BIlLS* 

0efrco  u>  iQnch>  Ihal  (ew  farmerti  wiU  now  mr  Atm^  wh^ 
tbftir  weight  may  be  nearly  trebled  by  a  mixivre  of  tJie  I>nk- 
li;y  breed.  In  some  expeiimeaU  whicb  have  bec»nade«A 
tlie  6ercei»  it  bas  been  ascertained  that  tbe  foirert  and  I  mtnikM 
Ain:  brcedi  mixed  bare  produced  eight  povods  of  ii«ttl«tal 
th«  Forest  alone«  only  five :  and  witb  respect  ta  ptice,  ifaa 
bia  been  more  than  doubled  by  tbe  cross  of  the  Baikeipei] 
toiedt  It  is  a  curious  fact,  and  deserving  of  attenlioo  ia  otfcg 
eomitiei,  that  though  the  coal  district  in  the  west  of  K<Htiwgii«M 
shire  it  very  apt  to  bring  on  the  rot  in  sheepj  yel  nmjr  hmt* 
dreds  of  the  infected  have  been  cured  by  a  removal  to  tmm^ 
ttone  land  ;  from  whence  it  bas  been  inferred^  with  feme  appear- 
•nee  of  truthi  that  water  impregnated  with  tbe  foied  mad  oC 
lime  in  proper  quantities^  with  change  of  pasture*  aa  moo  as 
tbe  dtvieasc  appeared,  might  be  attended  with  every  dmeaof 
lucctfNH*     The  experiuieni  is  ut  least  worth  trying. 

Mr.  Lowe  ttlts  m,  that  in  the  clay  district  more |>%eoiit tie 
Isopt  than  are  probiibly  in  any  other  part  of  tbe  kingd<(iiii :  and 
bt  say*  it  IS  a  wtfll  attested  fact  thai  some  years  ago»  j^eveo  hoiK 
dred  doa&en  were  sold,  on  one  market  day  at  Tux  ford,  for  sixty* 
threogyineat. 

The  forest  of  Sherwood  has  been  so  long  disused  for  its  an* 
eient  purpose  a)*  a  preserve  for  game,  that  little  is  to  be  said 
on  that  point :  there  is  a  curious  fact,  however,  respecting  Fal- 
conry recorded  by  Fuller,  not  undeserving  of  notice.  "We 
nmtt  not  forget  how  two  Ay  res  of  Ltinnanls  were  lately  found 
in  Sherwood  fnrest.  These  Hawks  are  the  natives  of  Saxony, 
and  it  seems  heing  old  and  past  flying  at  the  game,  were  let, 
or  did  set  theujselves  loose,  where  meeting  with  lanerets  en« 
larged  on  the  same  terms,  they  did  breed  together,  and  proved 
at  excellent  in  their  kind,  when  managed,  as  any  which  were 
brought  from  Germany,'* 

Before  we  close  this  general  ikttch  of  the  county,  it  wilt  not 
be  irrelevant  to  take  a  short  view  of  its 

Mi^NRiPAi  AND  Parliamentary  History  ;  but  of  these  there 

is 


irOTTl  K G II  A  HS  a  IRS. 


4S 


is  little  peculiarly  novel  to  be  noticed*  The  cotinti^s  of  Derby 
and  Nottingham  were  under  the  same  afacrifF,  (an  offit:er  ap- 
pointed here  as  early  as  in  atiy  other  part  of  the  kingdom)  until 
after  the  i*eign  of  Edward  the  third. 

With  respect  to  its  parliamentary  history,  we  have  found  but 
few  violent  contests-  In  the  "History  ol  Boroughs"  indeed 
there  are  loud  complaints  that  the  county  is  under  the  influence 
of  the  aristocracy,  from  having  so  many  noblemen  reiident  in 
it ;  but  this  will  always  be  the  case,  influence  always  will  exists 
and  the  Editor  of  that  work  himself  tacitly  approves  of  it  ih 
dejicribing  the  attempts  made  by  Mfijor  Cartwright  to  restore 
the  independence  of  the  county  at  a  time  when  he  was  encoii^* 
aging  the  honcj^t  industry  of  the  county  by  his  manufactures. 
Now  surely  I  without  denying  the  major  every  credit  for  his 
disinterested  am!  patriotic  designs,  if  he  bad  succeeded  in  con- 
sequence  of  the  good  opinion  of  the  freeholders,  this  very  suc- 
cess would  have  been  the  effect  of  influcDce  ;  not  a  dishonest 
one  His  true,  but  proceeding  from  an  interested  feeling  on  the 
pari  of  &ome  of  the  voters  at  least.  In  short  it  is  not  the  in-- 
fluence  we  ought  to  complain  of,  but  the  bad  use  made  of  it, 
when  that  take^i  place. 

The  Ecclesiastical  Jueisoiction  of  Nottinghamshire  is  un- 
der the  see  of  York ;  but  it  had  formerly,  even  as  late  as  llie  reign 
of  Elizabeth,  a  bishop  of  its  own.  At  present  it  ha^  an  arch- 
deaconry,  and  the  four  deaneries  of  Nottingham,  Bingham, 
Newark,  and  Retford.  There  are  in  all  in  the  county  182 
parifihes  and  chapelries,  u  hich  are  within  the  jurisdiction  of 
the  arch-deacon;  to  which  we  must  add  ^  parii^hes  and  chapeU 
ries  belonging  to  Southwell;  also  7  parishes  and  cliapelries 
within  the  jurisdiction  of  the  dean  and  chapter  of  Vork,  and 
the  peculiar  of  Kinolton,  whose  vicar  is  collated  by  the  arch* 
bishop.* 

There 

•  Thow  who  iiiih  funbet  uiforiiiafioti  majr  coftiylt  the  {i|iipendii  !•  Derin^, 
vphcre  there  are  e«pii»u«  litu  of  the  churchet,  tnd  chipcli  oi  each  dcAiier/, 
•itti  their  |iatrot}t,  Ice. 


There  are  several  mstances  of 

County  BiocitAFav,   wbtch  a»  we  are  unable  to  refer  then 

\  their  specific  birth  places,  mast  be  generally  noticed  here- 

StR  John  Fenton  Knt.  wa$  bom  in  this  county*  and  vras 
for  twenty-teven  years  a  privy  counselior  in  Ireland  to  Clueeii 
Blizaheth  and  King  James.  He  translated  the  history  of  Gaic* 
ciardini  out  of  the  original  Italian  into  English,  and  dedicated 
it  to  Clueen  Elizabeth.     He  died  at  Dublin  in  1603, 

Edwakd  Fenton>  bis  brother,  was  also  born  in  this  county. 
He  in  rery  early  life  displayed  an  inclination  for  nautical  a0air»« 
and  was  very  active  in  the  various  attempts  at  discovery  about 
Hudson ^s  Bay,  Greenland,  and  Ihe  other  northern  parts  of  the 
American  continent,  so  feishionable  at  that  period.  Much  re- 
specting him  may  be  found  both  in  Hackluyt,  and  in  Pur- 
chase 

Thomas  IIoiimk  another  Nottinghamshire  man,  became  a 
student  at  Magdalen  Hall,  Oxford*  in  1624,  and  was  soon  ad- 
mitted to  the  degree  of  M.  A.  He  seems  to  have  distinguisheil 
himself  much  by  his  abiliiies  as  a  pedagogue;  for  soon  after 
taking  his  degree  he  was  appointed  master  of  a  privatcr  school 
in  London*  was  shortly  after  chosen  master  of  the  free-school 
ftt  Leicester,  where  he  remained  only  two  years,  and  was  thence 
Cianslated  to  that  of  Tunbridgc  in  Kenr,  His  merits  did  not 
long  remain  unnoticed  ;  for  after  a  residence  of  about  ten  years 
at  the  latter  place,  he  was  preferred  in  the  head  mastership  at 
Eton,  where  he  remained  during  the  residue  of  his  life.  If  we 
tnay  Judge  of  his  practical  abilities  by  several  works  which  h« 
has  kft  behind  him  introductory  to,  and  illustrative  of,  classical 
education,  it  mujit  be  confessed  that  he  was  highly  deserving  o£ 
the  promotiojis  and  enciiuragemcnl  he  met  with. 

William  HoLota,  D.  D.  a  native  of  this  county,  is  particik- 
larly  deserving  of  notice,  being  esteemed,  and  we  believe  just- 
ly, as  the  Inventor  of  the  art  of  teaching  the  dumb  to  tpeak.  He 
was  educated  at  Pembroke  Hall,  where  he  took  the  degree  of 
M.  A.  and  shortly  after  received  the  rectory  of  Blechingdon  in 

Oxibrdshire, 


If  O*TIK0  HA  iriHtll** 


>uring  the  civil  wars  he  secra§  to  hare  acted  a 
loyal  part ;  for  on  the  restoration  he  was  made  a  canon  both  of 
Ely,  and  of  St*  Paul's;  shortly  after  be  was  appointed  sub- 
dean  of  thecbapcl^  and  <^ub-almoner  to  the  king;  and  he  ivas 
also  one  at"  the  earliesit  members  of  the  Royal  Society*  A  co* 
temporary  biographer  lays  **  he  was  a  great  virtuoso,  and  got 
himself  a  great  name  by  his  wonderful  art,  in  making  a  young 
gentleman*  Alexander  Pop  ham,  ^on  of  Colonel  Edward  Pophara, 
who  was  born  deaf  and  dumb,  to  speak  ;  how  he  did  it  he  tells 
us  in  a  discourse  of  the  Elements  of  Speech^  which  he  wrote 
Ibr  that  purpose,  and  to  promoto  a  pablicgood.  But  the  young 
inan  being  taken  from  hi  in  too  young,  or  before  he  grew  per- 
fect in  hts  speech,  lost  what  he  bad  been  taught  by  the  doctor ; 
and  was  sent  to  Dr.  Wallis  of  Oxford  (who  had  recovered  the 
<ipeech  of  a  young  gentleman,  one  Mr.  Whalley)  to  restore  his 
speech  again,  which  Dr*  Wallis  having  eCected,  he  vainly  as* 
sumed  the  glory  of  it  to  himself,  without  takfng  notice  of  Dr* 
Holder,  tlie  first  Inventor  of  it  in  England,  if  not  in  the  ^bole 
world*  This  provoked  Dr.  Holder  to  vindicate  himself,  against 
Dr«  Wallisi  in  a  treatise  which  he  calls  "  a  Supplement  to  the 
Philosophical  Transactions  of  July  1070;"  to  which  Dr»  Wallis 
published  an  answer  soon  after,  and  so  the  controversy  ended." 
Now,  without  presuming  to  settle  tlie  point  of  priority  in  dis- 
pute between  Drs.  Holder  and  WallJK,  we  may  hence  justly  in- 
fer that  the  world  at  large  is  indebted  to  England  for  this  great 
discovery ;  and  that  all  the  boastings  of  the  French  Abb^s  St* 
card,  and  De  I'Epee,  are  nothing  more  than  the  arrogant  inso- 
lence of  Frenchmen,  who.  either  through  ignorance  or  impu* 
dence,  would  claim  for  themselves  and  their  countrymen*  every 
thing  honourable  possessed  by  other  nations.  Dr.  Holder  al&(> 
frrote  *'  A  Treatise  of  Music,"  both  theoretic  and  practical,  in 
If  bich  he  is  said  to  have  had  great  skill. 

Nottinghamshire    boasts    of   two   extraordinary    characters 
of  th«t  name  o(  Sterna  ;  but  the   one  lo  which  we  here  allude 

IVOS 

RtCHARB 


4S 


irOTTIKCKAltfaniRE. 


•  RiCTTAmD  Sterne  D.  IX  who  was  born  in  thb  county  ia  1598; 
4itid  said  to  have  bet-n  descen<ied  from  an  ancieot  stock*  His 
early  years  were  spent  at  the  free-^chool  at  Notlingharo ;  and 
he  afterwards  weni  to  Christ  Charch  college,  Oxford,  whca  he 
graduated  with  much  credit  to  himself^  and  wan  soon  after  ad- 
mitted to  holy  orders.  He  soon  attracted  the  notice  of  Arch-* 
btshop  Laud,  who  appointed  him  one  of  his  chaplains  ;  and  his 
character  was  now  so  well  established  that  he  was  immediately 
aAcfrwnrdjj  elected  master  of  Je^us  College^  by  the  unanimotaa 
tote  uf  the  fellows. 

lidoes  ifol  appear  that  he  took  any  active  part  in  the  afiairi 
which  brriught  his  patron  to  the  scaffold ;  however,  when  the 

r charges  were  brought  forward  against  the  Archbishop*  and  he 
in  consequence  committed  a  prisoner  to  the  To«er,  his 
enemies  had  sufficient  influence  to  cause  Dr.  Sterne  to  he  sent 
thither  also.  They  were  unable,  indeed*  to  prove  any  thing 
gainst  him«  and  were  obliged^  though  unwillingly,  to  permit 
i\m  to  be  set  at  liberty,  after  the  public  execution  of  the  Arch^ 

'  tishop.  Ourrng  the  civil  vrars,  and  proicctonite,  he  retired  in- 
to 11  sale  obscurity;  but  was  called  from  it  on  the  Restoration, 
and  immediately  afterwardi  appointed  bishop  of  Carlisle,  tn 
I6(i4«  hv  was  pit)moted  to  the  archlnsliopric  of  York>  which 
he  mijoyed  for  twenty  years,  and  died  in  1084. 

Having  thus  taken  a  brief  view  of  the  county  in  its  various 
pbtions,  it  remains  for  us,  previous  to  entering  upon  the   spe- 
cific topography,  to  delineate  the 


FOREST  OF  SHERWOOD. 

Winch  embraces  a  large  ponionof  Nottinghamshire,  and  v%*h]ch, 
according  to  Camden  "  some  render  the  clear,  some  the  famous 
forest,  anciently  thick  set  with  trees,  whose  entangled  branches 
were  so  twisted  together,  that  they  hardly  left  room  for  a 
jiinijie  person  to  pass.  At  present**  be  adds  »*  it  is  much  thinner, 
bwl  still  breeds  an  infinite  number  of  deer,  and  slags,  with  lofty 
antlers;"  this  however  was  in  the  reign  of  Elizabeth, 

Gilpin 


JraTTIKQ0AM9HlRB. 


49 


I 


Gilpiti*  iti  his  elegant  delineations  of  forest  8cenery»  ohteryes 
ibat  Britain,  like  other  countries,  abounded  once  in  wood;  but 
as  it  became  more  cultivated,  its  vvooik  of  course  receded. 
That  our  woods  were  often  cut  down  merely  for  the  sake*  of  til- 
lage and  pasturage^  without  any  respect  to  the  uses  of  timber^ 
^eetni  to  be  evident  from  the  great  quantities  of  subterranean 
trees  dup  up  m  various  parts  of  England.  Thoso  are  chiefly 
foiiiad  m  marshy  grounds,  which  abounded  indeed  every  where 
before  the  arts  of  draining  were  in  use  ;  and  nothing  n'as  neces^ 
ftary  in  such  places  to  produce  the  future  phenomenon  of  sub- 
lerranean  timber*  but  to  ca^ry  the  trees,  when  cut  down,  upon 
the  darface  of  the  hog,  which  might  easily  be  done  in  dry  sum- 
mers* Dr.  Plot,t  who  also  aeems  to  be  of  this  opinion,  adducei 
several  reasons  for  supposing  that  they  might  have  be^n  buried  in 
thi«  way,  to  make  room  for  the  plough :  he  also  imagines  that 
the  English  might  begin  to  clear  their  Lands  for  tillage  as  early 
ai  the  reign  of  Alfred  the  Great. 

There  it  indeed  some  plausibility  in  this  theory  ;  for  at  pre* 
sent  even  the  vestiges  of  most  of  our  English  forests  are  ob* 
hierated  ;  and  scarce  any  of  them  can  now  boast  of  their  syU 
van  honours*  'Tls  true,  however,  that  some  of  the  woods  were 
destroyed  in  licentious  times;  and  that  many  of  them  have  been 
suffered,  through  mere  neglect,  to  waste  away  from  ihe  pil- 
lage of  a  dbhonest  neighbourhood. 

Leiaud  during  his  journey  seems  not  to  have  paid  much  at- 
tention to  the  then  state  of  ihis  woodland  tract.  He  say^ 
"  coming  ottte  of  the  town  of  Mans:field,  withyn  a  little  way  ; 
pasted  over  the  brooke  that  renneth  in  the  vale  hard  by  It. 
Tlwbrooke  a  3  miles  by  west  above  the  town  oC  Mansfield, 
and  a  3  miles  lower  goeth  by  Clypstone  as  I  harde. 

"  Soone  after  I  entered,  withyn  the  space  of  a  mile  or  lease, 
into  the  very  thick  of  the  woddy  Forest  of  Sherwood^  wher  yt 
greate  game  of  Deere :  and  %o  I  rode  a  v  miles  in  (he  very 

Vol,  XII.  D  woddy 

•  Gilpin't  Forest  Scenery* 
t  Pbt*i  S'mfr«ird?^h»fe. 


50  VOTTIUGBAMSHiai* 

woddy  grounde  of  the  Forest,  and  so  to  a  liule  pore  streete 
a  thoroughfare  at  the  end  of  the  wood.**^ 

"  A  liule  or  I  came  to  the  end  of  this  wodde,  I  left  about  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  on  the  right  hand,  the  Ruins  of  Newstead  a 
priory  of  Chanons." 

In  less  than  a  century  after  this,  Thoroton  tells  us  that  the 
pleasant  and  glorious  condition  of  this  noble  forest,  is  now  won*' 
derfuUy  declined;  and  he  adds,  there  is  at  present  (1G75}  and 
long  hath  been  a  justice  seat  held  under  my  Lord's  Grace 
the  Duke  of  Newcastle,  Justice  in  Eyre  of  all  his  Majesty's 
forests  north  of  Trent,  wherein  it  seems  his  deputies  or  lieuten* 
ants  have  allowed  such  and  so  many  claims,  that  there  will  not 
shortly  be  wood  enough  left  to  cover  the  bilberries,  which 
every  summer  were  wont  to  be  an  extraordinary  great  profit 
and  pleasure  to  poor  people  who  gathered  them,  and  carried 
them  all  about  the  country  to  sell. 

Notwithstanding  this  early  devastation  there  is  still  much 
woodland  scenery  in  existence,  sufficient  to  give  a  pretty  accu* 
rate  idea  of  what  was  once  a  forest  life.  Gilpin,  (whose  ob^er* 
vations  are  so  very  picturesque,  that  we  shall  take  an  opportu* 
nity  of  embodying  many  of  them  in  this  delineation  as  highly 
illustrative  of  what  may  be  esteemed  one  of  the  chief  beauties 
of  Nottinghamshire)  remarks,  that  this  once  celebrated  forest  was 
formerly  the  frequent  scene  of  royal  amusement  As  early  as 
the  time  of  Henry  the  second,  Mansfield  was  the  general  resi-^ 
dence  of  the  court  upon  these  occasions,  and  it  was  in  its  vicinity 
that  Henry  made  an  acquaintance  with  the  miller  of  famous 
memory.  Sir  John  Cockle;  but  in  treating  of  Mansfield  at 
greater  length,  we  shall  perhaps  have  an  opportunity  of  shewing 
that  this  old  legendary  story  is  by  no  means  of  such  an  early 
date.  This  forest  was  also  the  retreat  of  another  personage, 
equally  celebrated  in  the  Chronicle  of  ballad,  the  illustrious 
Robin  Hood,  who  with  little  John  and  the  rest  of  his  associates^ 

making 

*  This  leemt  (o  bare  been  Fapplewick. 


iroTtiirGHAif&Hfiifr 


SSiciri^  tne  w6ody  scenes  of  it   their  asylum^  laid  the  whole 

»  country  under  contribution.* 
It  is  a  matter  of  serious  regret,  in  a  picturesque  point  of  view, 
that  none  of  our  landscape  painters  have  ever  thought  of  study- 
ing in  this  forest;  for  it  cannot  be  denied  by  those  who  have 
actually  traversed  it.  that  it  would  afford  many  specimens  of 
landscape,  new  to  the  English  school,  and  of  which  no  good 
likeness  can  be  found  among  the  Italian  painters.  Its  style  is 
totally  di  He  rent  from  the  rocks  and  woods  of  Claude  Lorraine^ 

■  or  the  savage  scenery  of  Salvator  iiosa;  but  il  has  a  wildne^^s 

■  peculiar  to  itself,  varying  with  the  hours  of  the  day  and  with 
all  the  atmospheric  changes  to  which  England  is  so  subject,  bq 

■  tbat  in  fact  there  is  iicarcely  a  ferny  heath,  a  knoll,  or  glade^ 
that  does  not  present  some  novelty  ta  the  lover  of  picturesque 
beauty*     Having  traversed  its  woodland  haunts  in  every  direc- 

■  tiotij  tinder  all  the  changes  of  an  autumnal  season,  and  'midst  all 
the  varieties  accompanying  the  aerial  landscape  at  early  dawn« 
during  the  glare  of  open  day,  and  whibt  the  dewy  hand  of  even* 
tng  is  slowly  drawing  her  sober  tinted  mantle  of  grey  over  the 
receding  thickets,  and  all  nature  sinks  into  repose,  the  editor 
of  these  sheets  feels  that  he  would  leave  the  most  interesting  of 
the  Beauties  of  this  county  but  imperfectly  noticed,  if  he  did 

K     not  enter  at  some  length  into  the  application  of  the  principles  of 

■  the  picturesque  as  far  as  tliey  relate  to   this  forest,  and  which 

tare  so  ably  laid  down  by  the  inimitable  in  vei^ti  gator  of  the 
charms  of  English  sylvan  landscape.  Nothing  can  be  more 
correct  than  his  first  principle  that  there  are  few  extensive 
forests  which  do  not  contain,  in  some  part  or  other,  a  specimen 
of  every  species  of  woody  scenery.  The  wild  forest  view  In- 
deed differs  essentially  from  the  embellished  one,  for  beauty  is 
not  the  characterestic  of  the  forest*  It  disdains  all  human  cut- 
tare  ;  and  the  very  name,  from  our  accustomed  association  of 
ideas,  immediately  suggests  to  the  imagination  a  continued  and 
uninterrupted  tract  of  woody  country. 

D  9  Thiff 

♦  Vide  Gilpin'*  Fotc»t  Sceaerr 


52  HQTTINGHAIfSBiaS. 

This  forest  however,  if  it  does  not  possess  what  the  landscape 
gardener  would  term  beautiful,  has  in  itself  every  variety  of 
sylvan  scenery,  consisting  of  pasture  tracts  of  woody  country 
intermixed  with  pasturage,  and  in  many  places  with  cuUivate4 
enclosures.  These  intermingled  scenes  are  again  divided  from 
other  intermixtures  of  the  same  kind,  by  wild  heaths  which  are 
sometimes  bounded  by  a  naked  line  of  horizon,  at  others  skirted 
with  wood :  and  this  intermixture  of  wood  and  pasturage,  with 
large  separations  of  heath,  gives  a  variety  to  many  tracts  of 
Sherwood  Forest  which  could  not  be  expected  io  a  boundless 
continuance  of  woody  scenery  alone. 

.  The  forest  heath  too,  though  to  the  common  observer  it  pre* 
senU  only  ideas  of  sterility  and  desolation,  becomes  a  most  in- 
teresting scene  to  the  tasteful  admirer  of  nature,  when  bounded, 
aa  it  generally  is  in  this  forest,  by  woods  in  various  directions^ 
and  interspersed  here  and  there  with  lately  planted  clumps 
which  almost  imperceptibly  unite  its  woody  boundaries  with 
the  Wide  foreground  of  heath  and  graveL  A  very  pleasing 
contrast  too  may  be  discovered  in  the  broad  masses  of  colour 
in  the  wild  extent  of  heath  and  the  various  portions  of  gravelly 
surface,  broken  as  they  often  are  by  the  rude  forest  tracks,  or 
dotted  in  deeper  shades  with  patches  of  furze,  fern,  or  other 
wild  plants  which  stain  it  as  it  viere  with  every  shade  of  green, 
or  enliven  it  with  the  livelier  tints  of  tiie  yellow  furze  blossoms* 
But  among  all  the  minuter  plants,  as  Mr.  Gilpin  observes,/frn 
is  the  most  picturesque.  In  itself  it  is  beautiful.  We  admire 
it,  adds  he,  for  the  form  of  its  leaf — its  elegant  mode  of  hang- 
ing-—and  its  dark  brown  polished  stem.  As  an  accompaniment 
also,  nothing  is  better  suited  to  unite  the  higher  plants  with  the 
ground ;  whilst  its  bright  green  hues  in  summer,  and  ita  ochre, 
tint  in  autumn,  join  each  season  with  its  correspondent  tinge. 
In  some  places  too  the  most  pleasing  ideas  of  animated  nature 
break  in  upon  the  desart  scene,  from  the  woodman's  cottage, 
or  groupes  of  cattle,  or  the  starting  deer,  and  when  these  cir- 
cumsunces  come  in  unexpectedly,  and  happily  unite  with  the 
6  time 


I 


I 


lime  of  day,  or  with  the  i^eneral  expression  given  to  the  scene  by 
the  sUte  of  the  atmosphere,  it  does  not  require  much  taste  to  per- 
ceive that,  to  a  picturesque  eye,  the  wild  heath  may  become  one 
of  the  most  interesting  scenea  of  the  foi-est*  To  this  most  be 
added  the  iticidental  appearance  of  smoke,  either  from  the  low* 
roofed  cottage,  or  from  tht;  frequent  practice  of  burning  the 
gorse  and  fern  for  agrlcaltai'al  purposes,  and  which  is  always 
attended  with  peculiar  beauty  in  woodland  i^cenery.  In  the 
latter  ca4^,  its  ailhci  is  always  striking,  for  then  we  see  it  in 
large  masses  spt*eading  in  the  forest  glades,  and  forming  a  soft 
back  ground  lo  the  trees  which  intercept  it;  attd  as  tliis  proces.% 
generally  takes  place  in  autumn,  it  contrasin  more  happily 
with  their  nisset  foliage,  or  withered  ramifications. 

Mr.  Gilpin  observes  that  the  blasted  tree  has  often  a  fine  ef- 
fect both  in  natural  and  in  artificial  landscape^  When  the  dreary 
heath  i:*  spread  before  the  eye,  and  ideas  of  wildness  and  de- 
solatioQ  are  even  wished  for,  surely  no  accompaninieni  more 
suitable  to  the  scene  can  be  imagined  than  the  blasted  oak, 
ragged,  scathed,  and  leafless,  shooting  its  peeled  vThite  branches, 
athwart  the  gathering  blackness  of  i»ome  rising  storm  !  It  must 
be  confessed  indeed  that  much  of  forest  beauty,  if  btauty  it  can 
be  called,  depends  upon  the  adventitious  circumstances  of  time 
and  season.  He  who  would  enjoy  the  various  pleasures  inci- 
dental to  the  contemplation  of  nature  in  Sherwood  Forest,  must 
not  shrink  from  the  evening's  chill,  nur  from  the  passing  storm. 
When  the  tempest  scohU  over  the  forest,  as  Gilpin  s»ublimely 
exclaims,  as  wc  traverse  its  deep  recesses,  what  grandeur  do 
the  internal  parts  of  it  receive  from  the  casual  ray  darling  upon 
ikiem!  or  when  we  view  the  storm  blackening  behind  the  irees^ 
with  what  wonderrul  eftect  does  the  sun,  in  an  opposite  direc- 
tion, strike  their  tutted  headn.  But  if  that  sun  be  scttijig, 
whilst  the  tempest  is  brewing  over  the  hemispheres-black  to* 
wards  the  east — lurid— more  purple— and  glowing  with  red,  as 
tl  sidvancc)«  towards  the  west — t!ie  scene  is  too  sublime  for  de- 
icription.     But  even  in  the  af  illeat  evening^  there  is  a  silent  and 

D  3  a  sacred 


54 


VOTTlKGlIAMftinaB* 


a  sacred  charm  produced  by  the  effect  of  a  decrming  son,  whiU 
the  traveller  is  treading  the  mazes  of  the  forest  especially  iit 
broken  ground;  because,  if  moving  with  any  rapidity,  he  li 
cojislantly  shifting  his  sensible  horizon.  For  then  how  oftea* 
and  with  \^hat  delightful  elFect,  does  he  see  the  sun's  broad  diivk 
just  appearing  above  a  woody  hill^  throwing  a  mass  of  light 
upon  the  broad  tints  of  green,  or  darting  his  lengthening  ray 
through  the  branches,  whilst  the  shadows  of  surrounding  objects^ 
seem  extended  to  the  distance.  But  the  partial  breaksof  lights 
are  at  this  time  the  most  beautiful ;  for  then  the  sun-beams,  so 
much  softer  than  the  glare  of  noon,  sometimes  catch  the  taps 
of  those  groves  that  hang  midway  upon  the  shaggy  steep,  and 
slightly  touching  here  ami  there  some  other  prominent  objects 
imperceptibly  mix  their  ruddy  tint  with  the  surrounding 
jnists,  appearing  to  set  the  upper  parts  on  fire,  whilst  the  lower 
skirts  are  lost  *'  in  a  darkness  of  varied  conftision,  in  which 
trees,  and  dark  ground,  and  radiance^  and  obscurltyt  art^  all 
blended  together''  as  if  rendering  darkness  more  visible. 

It  is  not  however  in  any  one  district  of  Sherwood,  that  all 
these  varieties  can  be  seen*  The  open  heath  with  its  accompa- 
niments may  be  traced  chrriugh  these  broad  tracts  that  lie  between 
Beskw^ood  and  Mansfield,  skirling  Newslead  abbey,  and  ex- 
tending to  the  right  towards  Ox  ton  and  Fanuficld.  The  wild 
expanse,  overgrown  with  gorge  and  fprn,  and  skirted  with 
woodland  scejiery,  may  be  traversed  between  Mansfield  and 
Ollerton,  rotmd  Ed  wins  tow  and  Kullbrd,  and  including  the 
scenery  of  Clipstone  Park.  Whilst  the  more  varied  scenery  of 
ancient  forest,  of  thickening  foliage  intermixed  with  opcnlawm, 
and  breaks  of  cultivation,  may  be  found  round  Warsop  and 
Carburton  including  much  of  the  park  landscape  of  Welbeck, 
Worksop^  Clumber,  and  Thoresby.  and  extending  to  the 
northern  limits  of  the  forest  land  to  the  right  of  the  road  from 
Worksop  to  Retford.  The  whole  of  which  is  finely  contrasted 
on  the  eastern  bounds,  by  the  rich  scenes  of  cultivation  and 
enclosure  extending  ffom  Haughton  park  to  Southwell,  and 

wh^r^ 


KOTTtKCnJlMSHlRC. 


u 


where  in  general  the  ground  ts  ftu(Bcient1y  broken  to  add  the 
picturesque  to  the  beautifuL  Such  are  the  scenes^  ihM,  even 
in  Its  denuded  condition^  may  be  traced  throughout  Sherwood 
forest ;  we  shall  now  slightty  touch  upon  its  ancient  history  and 
present  state.  It  appears  that  (he  forest  was  anciently  divided' 
or  rather  known,  by  the  names  of  Thorntry  Wood,  and  High 
Forest;  the  Brst  of  which,  although  by  much  the  smallest,  con- 
tained within  its  limits  no  less  than  nineteen  towns  or  villages^ 
amongst  which  Nottingham  was  included ;  and  the  High  Forest 
U  described  as  abounding  with  fine  stately  oaks,  and  being 
entirely  free  from  underwood.  The  first  time  in  which  we  find 
this  forest  particularly  mentioned  was  in  the  reign  of  Henry  the 
second,  it  being  then,  a»  we  have  before  noticed,  a  place  of 
royal  resort,  and  also  famous  as  the  principal  haunt  of  Kobiii 
Hood  and  his  trusty  bowmen. 

It  appears  by  an  in(]uiAiuon  held  at  Nottingham  in  that  reignj 
that  the  archbishop  of  York  had  a  right,  or  a  custom,  of  hunlitig 
in  the  forest,  nine  days  in  every  year;  ihree  at  Christmas, 
three  at  Easter,  and  three  at  Whit!iunt)de ;  and  also  that  the 
archbishop  and  his  canons,  and  hia  men,  had  here  tbc^ir  proper 
foresters,  and  aeryes  of  hawks,  and  pannage.  It  is  evident  in- 
deed, that,  although  not  mentioned  by  any  writers  before  this 
reign,  it  must  have  been  for  some  time  previous,  of  consider- 
able conaecjuence  ;  for  the  first  session  of  justices  in  Eyre,  held 
by  order  of  Henry,  was  under  the  superintendance  of  the 
bishops  of  Durham  and  Lincoln,  and  the  earl  of  Leicester  The 
last  of  these  sessions  upon  record  in  the  Tally  Office  of  the 
Exchequer,  is  in  a  book  in  which  is  entered  the  claims  and 
commencement  of  a  justice-seat  held  here  before  the  then  lord 
Cromwell  who  was  chief  justice  in  Eyre  north  of  Trent,  and 
which  roust  have  taken  place  sometime  afier  the  26th  year 
(1534)  of  Henry  the  eighth.  In  the  same  reign  there  was  also  a 
perambulation,  which  is  preserved  by  Thorolon,  much  more 
minute  than  any  preceding  ones,  bui  not  e&sentially  dilFering 
ill  the  extent  of  its  limitfk 

D4  According 


S6  VDTTlKGHAMtHIEE. 

According  to  Thorotou,  Sherwood  Fobbst  extends  into  lh« 
Hundreds  of  Broxton,  ThaTgarton>  and  Bassetlaw.  He  considers 
its  origin,  as  a  forest,  uncertain ;  bat  although  not  meutioiiefl 
by  name,  earlier  than  the  time  of  Henry  the  second,  he  shews 
it  roust  have  been  known  as  a  forest  long  before,  for  William 
Plevcrel  in  the  Jirtt  year  of  that  reign,  was  called  upon  to 
answer  <'  De  Placitis  Forestae"  in  this  county.  At  that  time  be 
bad  the  whole  profit  and  command  of  this  forest ;  but  it  oMUt 
soon  after  have  fallen  to  the  crown,  for  in  Henry's  eighth  year 
(1161)  the  sheriff  of  the  county  prays  to  be  discharged  of  4L 
m  vasto  forests ;  and  two  years  afterwards  be  prays  for  tbe 
aame  discharge,  also  for  61.  &s.  Od,  paid  to  the  constfible,  eight 
foresters  and  a  warrener ;  and  40i.  to  the  caaons  of  Sherwood 
fcr  alms.**^ 

The  old  Forest  Books  contain  a  copy  of  a  charter  made  hy 
King  John,  before  his  coming  to  the  crown  and  whilst  eaii  of 
Morteyn,  to  Matilda  de  Caux  and  Ralph  Fitsstephen  her  hus- 
\»nd»  and  to  their  heh-s,  of  all  the  liberties  and  free  cuatoma 
which  any  of  the  ancestors  of  the  said  Maud  (lords  of  Laxton) 
held  at  any  time  in  Nottinghamshire  or  Derbyshire,  that  is,  all 
the  forest  of  Nottingham  and  Derbyshires,  as  their  ancestors 
ever  held  the  same. 

It  aflerwards  came  to  John  Birking  as  heir  general  to  Matilda 
deCaux,  and  the  11th  of  Henry  the  third  (1396)  was  in  the 
possession  of  his  son ;  but  this  line  failing,  it  descended  to  the 
family  of  Everingham,  who  by  heirship  claimed  '<Custo- 
diam  Forestarum  Regis'*  in  both  Notts'  and  Derby ;  but  Tho- 
roton  is  of  opinion  that  this  claim  extended  no  farther  than  the 
preceding  limits  of  Sherwood  Forest,  as  Henry  had  disafforested 
all  the  other  parts  of  those  counties,  live  years  before  this  claim 
was  put  in. 

The  Everinghnm  family  having  lost  their  rights  by  forfeiture, 
in  the  reign  of  Edward  the  first,  it  came  to  the  crown,  since 
which  time  it  has  come  generally  under  the  civil  jurisdiction  of 

the 

*  It  is  probable  these  were  the  monlLS  of  Newstead  Abbey. 


KOTTIKGHAMSIIIR^.  17 

ibc  sbcrilTs  of  the  covmty,  and  iu  forest  jurisdiction  has  been 
panted  to  various  individuals  among  the  nobility  and  gentry* 
as  (ipecial  marks  ot  royal  favour. 

1(5  nmiiiiers  and  costcitns  at  that  period  are  curiuusj  and  in 
some  meaisure  illuHirattye  of  the  times;  as  recorded  in  an  inquU 
sition  taken  before  Geott'rey  de  Langley*  the  king's  jiisiice  in 
Eyre  north  uf  Trent,  By  ihis  it  appears  that  the  chief  keeper 
ought  to  have  three  deputy  kceperit  over  three  distrtcts  in  order 
til  attach  all  trespa^^e^,  and  pre!»cnt  them  at  ihe  attachment  be* 
fore  the  Verdnrers, 

In  the  first  keeping  which  lay  between  the  rivers  Lcnc  and 
Doverbeck,  he  was  to  have  one  forester  riding,  v^'ith  a  page  and 
two  foresters  on  foot;  two  verdurers;  and  two  agisters.  This 
keeping  contained  the  three  hays  of  Beskwood,  Ltndeby,  and 
Wiliay. 

The  High  Forest  formed  the  second  keeping;  and  here  were 
two  foresters  riding*  with  two  pages  and  two  foresters  on  foot ; 
bt;re  also  were  two  verdurers,  and  two  agisters.  This  keeping  also 
included  tlie  two  bays  of  Birkland  and  Billahay*  with  the  park 
of  Clipstonet  which  were  to  be  under  the  careof  twoTerdiirer* 
and  two  agisters. 

The  third  keeping*  Rurawoode,  was  to  have  one  forester  on 
foot;  and  two  woodwards,  one  at  Carburton*  and  the  other  at 
Badby;  also  two  verdurers,  and  two  agisters*  It  was  further 
found  that  the  chief  keeper  ought  also  to  have  a  page  bearing 
bis  bow  through  all  the  forest  to  gather  cfnminage.^ 

The  whole  extent  of  the  forest  from  north  to  south  is  about 
twenty-five  railesj  and  its  breadth  from  seven  to  nine;  which 
seems  to  agree  with  its  ancient  boundaries^  for  the  perambu- 
lation in  the  I6th  of  Henry  the  third  {1231}  began  atConings- 
withford,  by  the  highway  towards  Ntittingham,  on  to  Blackstone 
Haugh^  and  thence  following  the  course  of  the  Doverbeck  into 
the  Trent,  Westerly,  it  went  from  Coningswiih  by  Maydcn 
Water  to  the  town  of  Worksop,  following  the  course   of  the 

river 
bis  leensto  have  hcttk  a  fee  for  ttie  fvrmtitioa  tnd  |irei«rvatioQ  of  toadi. 


58  KOTTIHOBAMSBIRS. 

river  to  Pleasley,  so  ap  to  Otter  Brigges,  then  keeping  the 
great  highway  to  the  Miilford,  thence  to  Mayneshead,  by 
Hard  wick  and  Kirkeby  to  Nun  Carre,  on<  towards  Annesley, 
keeping  the  high  road  to  Linbye  through  the  midst  of  that  town 
to  Lene  watery  on  to  Lenton,  ''and  from  thence  by  the  said 
water,  as  it  was  wont  of  old  time  to  run  into  the  water  of  Tredt, 
to  the  fall  of  Doverbeck.'* 

Although  there  were  some  disafibrestation  after  this,  yet  they 
appear  to  have  been  again  resumed ;  so  that,  as  Thoroton  states, 
this  old  perambulation  stood  in  the  year  1673,  without  any  re- 
markable alteration.  It  must  be  remembered,  however,  that 
several  tracts  of  land,  particularly  in  the  northern  district  as 
far  as  Rossington  bridge,  which  lay  in  a  waste  state,  had  been 
generaliy  esteemed  part  of  the  forest ;  but  from  the  survey  of 
1609,  they  appear  either  not  to  have  belonged  to  the  forest,  or 
to  have  been  disafforested  before  that  time. 

The  present  state  of  this  forest  has  been  ably  delineated  by 
the  late  Major  Rooke,  who  observes  that  it  is  the  only  one  that 
now  remains  under  the  superintendance  of  the  chief  justice  in 
Eyre,  north  of  Trent,  or  which  now  belongs  to  the  crown  in 
that  district.* 

The  Fouest  Officers,  consist  of  a  Lord  Warden,  who 
holds  his  office  by  letters  patent  from  the  crown,  during  plea- 
sure; 

*  By  tlie  survey  of  1609,  this  Forest  was  parcelled  out  in  three  wa  Iks. 
The  north  includes  the  towns  of  Carborton,  Gleadtborpe,  W&rsop,  Nettle* 
worthy  Mansfield-wood  bouse,  Clipstone,  Ruiford,  and  Edwinstow;  the  bays 
of  BirkUnd  and  Bilhagb,  towns  of  Budby,  Thoresby,  Paletborpe,  or  Pe- 
verelthorpe,  and  Ollerton. 

In  the  middle,  are  Mansfield,  Pleasley  bil^  Skegby,  Sutton,  Hucknell, 
Tulwood,  part  of  Kirkby,  Blid worth,  Papplewick^  Newstead,  part  of  Lin- 
by,  and  part  of  Annesley. 

In  the  south,  are  the  towns  of  Nottingham,  part  of  liVelford,  with  Rad- 
ford, Soeinton,  Col  wick,  Cedling,  Stoke,  Carleton,  Burton,  and  Bolcote* 
Guntborpe,  Caytborpe,  and  Lowdham  ;  Lambley,  Arnold,  Basford,  BulweU, 
Beskwood  Park,  Woodborougb,  Calverton,  and  Sauntesford  Manor. 

Vide  Appendix  to  Lowe't  Agricultural  Survn^ 


^^^^B  JIOTTIKOttAMSfirRE.  59 

I      mrp;  at  present  the  Duke  qf  Newcastk :  a  Bow-B£arer  and 

I      Rajs G Eft  appointed  by  the  lord  warden  during  pleasure  ;  at  pre- 

acnt.  Lord  B^ron :  and  Four  Verdurers  elected  by  the  free* 

holders  for  life;  who  have  each  a  tree  out  of  the  King's  hays 

I      of  Birkland  and  Rilhagh,  and  two  guineas  to  *fach  verdurerat- 

I      tending  the  inclosure  of  a  break  ;  the  present  verdurers  arc  Sir 

I       Francis  Molyneux,  Ban,  J.  Liichjicid,  Edward  ThurfHon  Gottid^ 

and   William  Sherl/rookc,  B$ip't, 

There  are  also  a  Stewwrd  ;  nme  Keepeus*  appointed  by  the 
Yerdurcrs  during  ple;tsure#  having  so  many  diflercnt  walks,  and 
I      each  a  salary  of  twenty  shillings  pakl  by  the  lord  warden  out 
of  a  fee  farm  rent  from  Nottingham  caiitle. 

There  are  also  Two  sworn  Woodwards  for  Sutton  and 
Carleton* 

Thorney  Wood  Chace,  btJing  a  branch  of  the  Forestt  was 
granted  by  Queen  Elizabeth^  in  1599  to  JohnSraiihopcj  Eticj.  as 
hereditary  keeper,  which  is  now  enjoyed  by  the  earl  of  Ches- 
terfield*'* 

The  Surveyor  General  qfihe  woods  has  also  a  jurisdiction  over 
this  forest  as  far  as  regards  the  wood,  and  timber  of  the  crown; 
lie  has  a  deputy  in  ihe  forest  who  has  a  fee  tree  yearly,  and  a 
salary  of  twenty  pounds  paid  out  of  the  *ales  of  wood,f 

Mr. 

•  Tbi>  crbace  coroprchendi  Ihe  greateft  purt  of  the  prcicnt  Soviihem  divifion 
of  the  forest.  Mr.  Lowe,  in  hi»  Survcj,  lays  il  U  well  itocked  with  fallow 
deer,  the  oihef  fjflrts  h«*ing  been  stocked  wiili  red  dc<?f,  whicti  two  tpecies 
appear  not  Co  have  latennised  in  breed.  Tlie  qutntitj  of  wood  will  fooii 
ht  reduced,  m  eonscqoence  of  the  rcc«nt  iuclo^iurcs  of  Laiubley  aod  Ged* 
liog.  Tbc  deer  have  been  lutterJy  much  dimirilAhcd,  perhaps  rutalty  or 
nearly  dctiro^cd, 

f  To  lliew  officer*,  llicrc  were  fwrne  additional  one*  in  Thoroton**  time, 
towardi  tlie  close  of  the  leveuieeiitb  century,  for  be  tells  u»  that  the  twtiee  Re- 
gardcri  were  to  reduced  by  an  ordmance  In  (he  reig^n  of  Edward  the  firtf. 
Thotetwcjve  forcU  keepers  were  at  that  time,  one  of  Mmufield,  one  of  Mnnt- 
i«ld  Woodhoofc,  one  af  Anneslcy  hiJliand  Kewiicad,  ttne  of  P^pplcwick 
oOf  of  Rumwoode  and  Oswnld,  one  of  Ruflbrd,  one  of  Bilbagh,  one  of  Birk- 
land, 


Co  VOTTlWeHAMSntllS. 

Mr.  Lowe  states  that  the  whole  soil  of  the  forest  is  under* 
elood  to  haTe  been  granted  by  the  crown  to  different  lords  of 
manors,  reserving  only,  in  forest  language,  the  vert  and  »mi- 
9om,  or  trees  and  deer.  The  latter  were  certainly  in  former 
iioaes  very  numeroas,  and  all  of  the  red  kind,  with  the  ex- 
vcjplion  of  Thomey  wood  chace,  where  they  were  the  fallow 
d««r.  Within  the  memory  of  many  persons,  now  living,  herds 
of  a  hundred  or  more  might  be  seen  together  in  different  parts 
of  this  woodland  district;  but  the  extension  of  cultivation  has 
driven  them  gradually  firom  their  accustomed  haunts ;  and,  ex- 
cept in  preserved  parks,  there  are  none  now  to  be  found.  The 
vert,  and  venison  if  there  were  any,  are  under  the  care  of  the 
▼efdurers  already  mentioned. 

It  was  most  certainly  not  quite  an  exaggeration  in  an  author, 
who  wrote  about  the  middle  of  the  last  century,^  to  say  that 
the  woods  were  so  destroyed,  that  Robin  Hood  would  scarcely 
find  shelter  in  Sherwood  forest  for  a  week ;  for  of  the  ancient 
woodland,  the  principal  remains  are  now  only  to  be  found  in 
tho  hays  of  Birkiand  and  Bilhagh,  which  form  an  open  wood  of 
large  ancient  oaks,  free  from  underwood  (except  la  one  part 
where  some  natural  birch  is  growing,)  but  most  of  them  iii  a 
state  of  decay.  The  extent  of  this  tract  is  about  three  miles, 
by  one  and  a  half ;  or  about  fifteen  hundred  acres :  and  in  a 
survey  about  two  and  twenty  years  ago,  they  contained  no 
more  than  ten  thousand  one  hundred  and  seventeen  trees,  va- 
lued at  a  little  more  than  seventeen  thousand  pounds.  Part  of 
these  hays  is  in  Thoresby  park.  Clumber  park  contains  there- 
mains  of  two  venerable  woods,  which  were  called  Clumber 
and  Hardwick  woods ;  and  there  are  some  other  ancient  dis- 
tricts of  small  extent  consisting  of  Harlow  wood.  Thieves  wood, 

and 

knd,  oue  of  Calvertun,  one  of  Fviieafitld,  one  of  Langton  ■rboor  ■nd 
Blidworth,  and  one  of  SaUon  in  AsbfieM.  There  were  also  a  keeper  of  Net- 
tinglmni  park,  a  keeper  6f  Clipstone,  and  teferal  woodwards  for  e?ery  towo^ 
•bip, 

•  Tour  through  Grwil  Britain,  Vol.  3. 


KOTTIMOHAMSHXaS.  6l 

and  some  scattered  portions  of  the  Man&field  woods,  wkicfa* 
however^  can  boast  of  very  little  valuable  timber.  These  are 
all  that  remain  of  the  ancieni  woodland ;  hot  we  shall  have  oc« 
:casion  to  enter  more  minutely  into  a  description  of  the  modem 
plantations  which  are  now  conducting  on  an  extensive  scale. 

The  enclosed  parks,  bordering  on  the  forest  land,  have  some 
antique  and  very  august  specimenit  of  the  ancient  forest  ho* 
nours.  Major  Rooke  observes  that  in  Welbeck  park,  particu* 
larly,  the  extensive  groves  of  ancient  and  majestic  oaks  are 
beautifnlly  diversified  by  the  slender  and  pendant  branches  of 
the  silver-coated  birch,  with  which  they  abound.  Many  of 
these  venerable  oaks  are  of  an  extraordinary  size,  and  undoubt* 
edly  of  very  remote  antiquity,  perhaps  not  less  than  a  thousand 
years  old,  some  of  them  being  upwards  of  thirty  four-feet  in 
circumference. 

Among  the  many  large  trees,  which  are  objects  of  curiosity 
to  the  botanical  tourist,  is  anoak  on  the  west  side  of  Clipstoott 
park*  called  the  parliament  oak,  from  a  tradition  of  a  parliament 
having  been  held  there  by  Edward  the  first;  and  another  near 
the  north-end  of  the  same  park,  called  the  Broad  oak,  mea* 
suring  twent)'  seven  feet  and  a  half  in  circumference.  Near 
Blidworth  also,  there  is  a  very  large  and  ancient  elm  called 
Langton  arbour,  which  even  some  centuries  ago  was  sufficiently 
remarkable  to  give  a  name  to  one  of  the  forest  walks,  and  to 
have  a  keeper  appointed  to  it.* 

A  recent  discovery  has  shewn  a  very  curious  mode  of  ascer- 
taining 

•In  traversing  the  forest  between  Mansfield  and  Notiingham,  the  tourist 
will  observe  a  large  square  pillar,  on  which  was  furmerly  a  bruss-plate  with  aa 
inscription.  This  is  on  the  north  side  of  Harlow  wood  ;  and  tradition  sajf^* 
that  this  pillar  was  formerly  the  place  where  the  forest  officers  of  the  crown 
assembled  annually  on  Hulyrood'day,  early  in  the  morning,  to  receive  the 
charge  of  the  lord  chief  justico  in  Eyre,  to  view  fcnccsj  and  take  an  account 
of  the  dter,  in  order  to  make  their  presentments  at  the  Sweinmote  court« 
which  ivas  held  on  that  day  at  Mansfield  by  a  steward  appointed  by  the  lut4 
chief  justice  in  Eyre.     RookcU  Skttch  of  the  Forest. 


St 


KOTTIKGRAIfSHl&£. 


taintng  the  great  aniitjuity  of  some  of  these  trees.  Major 
Rooke  telb  us  that  in  cutting  down  some  timber  m  Btrkland 
and  BilUaghi  Ictiers  have  been  found  cut  or  stamped  in  the  body 
of  the  trees ;  denoting  the  king's  reign  in  which  they  were 
,  thus  marked. 

It  seems  that  the  bark  was  cut  off  and  the  letters  cut  in,  afler 
which  the  next  year's  wood  grew  over  it  but  without  adhering 
where  the  bark  had  been  cut. 

The  cyphers  are  of  James  the  first,  of  Will  ram  and  Mary, 
and  one  of  King  John  !  one  of  these  with  James's  cypher  was 
about  one  foot  within  the  tree^  and  one  foot  from  the  centre  :  it 
was  cut  down  in  17B6.*  One  of  William  and  Mary  bad  the 
mark  about  nine  inches  within  the  tree,  and  three  feet  thre« 
inches  from  the  centre ;  cut  dovvn  also  in  1786* 

The  mark  of  John  was  eighteen  inches  within  the  tree,  and 
something  more  than  a  foot  from  the  centre  ;  it  was  cut  down 
in  1791  :  but  the  middle  year  of  John's  reign  was  1207^  from 
which  if  we  subtract  1^  the  number  of  years  requisite  for  a 
tree  of  two  feet  in  diameter  to  arrive  at  that  growth,  it  will 
make  the  date  of  its  planting  10BJ»  or  about  twenty  years  after 
the  conquest*  The  tree  therefore,  when  cut  down  in  179U  musi 
have  been  706  years  old,  a  fact  scarcely  credible ;  for  it  ap- 
pears from  the  tree^  whose  marks  are  better  authenticated,  that 
those  exactly  of  the  same  size,  when  marked,  had  increased 
twelve  inches  in  diiuntter  in  172  years,  whilst  this  one  had  in- 
creased no  more  than  eightuen  inches  in  584  years«  It  mnsi 
be  allowed  however  that  the  surplus  six  inches  of  di0erence 
contained  a  greater  cubic  quantity,  than  the  six  inches  immedi- 
ately vvJtliinthem,  and  would  therefore  require  a  longer  time  for 
their  increase,  and  that  in  the  proportion  of  an  increasing  progress 

SlOfU 


•This  tree  must  Imvc  been  therefore  tw©  feet  in  diameter,  ot  two  yards  hi 
circupifcrrace  wJicn  the  mark  vth^  cut.  Now  a  Ircc  of  thai  liic  is  genermlly 
eiCimuted  at  one  hundred  and  twenty  yearV  growth,  which  number  »utitr«cted 
from  the  middle  year  of  Jumet's  rci^n,  would  make  1491  the  ddtc  uf  (he  plaat- 
iDg  of  the  tree. 


NOTTIXaBAHSmRE. 


S3 


I 


,^^.*  This  very  accurate  delineator  of  Sherwood  Forest,  ac- 
counts for  these  phenomena,  by  supposing  (as  the  increasing 
wood  never  adheres  where  the  bark  has  been  taken  otf)  thai 
ihe  sap  which  rises  from  the  roots  through  the  cQ|jillary  tubes 
of  the  wood,  to  the  branches,  returns  in  its  circulation  between 
the  hiea  and  the  bark.  "  I  have  often/'  sayi  be,  *'  examined 
many  of  the  ancient  hollow  trees  in  Birkland  and  in  Bilhagh, 
and  always  found  that  where  the  bark  remained,  even  on  their 
mutilated  trunks,  there  they  frequently  put  out  small  branchei 
with  leaves ;  but  where  that  necessary  covering  of  the  re- 
luming sap  was  wanting,  there  was  no  iippearance  of  vege- 
tation/' 

With  respect  in  motlern  improvement  in  this  forest,  much 
has  already  been  done;  but  there  is  one  point  whirh  ret|uirea 
more  attention  than  has  hitherto  been  paid  to  it.  Mr.  Throsby, 
in  bis  additions  to  Thoroton,  has  already  given  a  hint  on  this 
iubject,  and  it  were  well  if  it  could  be  attended  ta.  He  says^ 
"  in  passing  over  this  forest,  I  observed  that  it  h  now  in  a  great 
measure  inclosed  between  BIyih  and  Nottingham.  As  many 
parts  of  it  are  but  thinly  inhabited  at  present,  and  in  conse- 
quence of  the  inclosures  you  meet  with  a  great  variety  of  roads 
branching  here  and  there,  handfHx^ts  would  be  exirtmeiy  use/ai 
They  arc  at  all  times  in  such  places,  the  most  civil  things  a 
traveller  meets  with,  but  rarely  seen  here/' 

The  inconvenience  resulting  from  the  want  of  handposts  is 
certainly  very  great;  but  with  respect  to  the  latter  part  of  the 
observation,  the  editor  of  these  sheets  must  do  the  inhabiianti 
of  the  forestthe  justice  to  say,  that  ijx  walking  over  it*  varioui 
tracts,  he  never  experienced  the  slightest  deficiency  in  civility* 
but  always  found  them  ready  to  direct,  or  even  to  accompany 
him  over  its  most  intricate  recesses. 

The  present  state  of  the  woodlands  of  this  forest,  and  of 
modern  plantation,  is  a  subject  of  too  much  importance  to  be 

slightly 

*  Major  Booke  alto  myt,  that  tiprtat  trees  with  this  mark  had  been  L'ut 
4t>wu,  M  tbat  deceptiou  or  mJMtnke  U  Karcf.1/  poskibte. 


KOTTIHGBJUfSntUS* 

slightly  pnssed  orer^  parttcalarly  at  a  period  when  our  uup^* 
tation  of  timber  for  na?al  purposes  is  so  much  circumscribed*  ■ 
That  England,  by  a   little    care  and  attention,  might  m  fifty 
years  be  able  to  supply  her  own  wants,  in  this  article,  and  that 
without  interfering  with  land  fit  for  agricultural   purposes^^  h  a 
truth  which   we  believe  will   not  be  denird ;  at  leaj^t,  whoeter  , 
Iraversjes  thin  tract  must  confess  that  much  of  it  which  is  unfS 
for  cuUivation,  might   be  thus  usefully   employed.     To  she 
what  has,  and  whait  may  be  donr>  we  shall  therefore  avail  our 
selves  of  a  very  accurate  enumeration  of  the   various  modcr 
plantations  by  major  Rooke^  to  whose  labours  we  ha^e  been  \ 
much  indebted  in  the  course  of  this  delineation. 

Hetelljt  us  that  so  late  as  the  beginning  of  the  last  century 
(1700)  Sherwood  was  full  of  trees,  and  it  wai  then  one  con* 
tinued  wood  from  Mansfield  to  Nottingham. 

Since  that  time,  the  forest  has  been  pretty  much   cleared; 
none  of  the  ancient  wooda  being  left,  except  those  which 
have  already  mentioned:  it  is  pleasing  however  to  observe  tha 
efforts  are  now  making  to  adorn  this  ancient  forest,  and  tha 
large  plantations   have  been  made,   and   are  stiH   making, 
honour  of  our  splendid  naval  victories,  than  which  toothing  i 
be  more  appropriate* 

The  duke  of  Portland's   extensive  plantations  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  Wclbeck  have  a  fine  eflect,  and  are  alre;idy  see 
at  a  great  distance ;  whilst  the  stcraggy  oaks  called  Thieve?" 
Wood,  between  Maiisfiekl  and  Nottingham,  have  been  filled  up 
with  young  plants,  which  are   now  fvpringing  up  to  form  an 
union  with  .several  others  ni  the  Portland  plantations. 

On  that  part  of  the  forest  called  Cock's  Moor,  in  the  parisb  of 
Kirkby,  and  uhich  is  generally  considered  as  the  highest 
gmuiJtl  in  the  county,  commandmg  the  most  extensive  view*l 
in  every  direction,  a  plantation  of  forty  acres  has  lately  been 
£unned  :  and  forty 'five  acres  have  been  »own  with  acorns  dnd 
chesnuU  in  Norton  forest  in  the  same  neighbourhood. 

The  second  duke  of  Kingston  ptauied  two  large  clumps  of 

evergreenv 


lOTTINGHAMSUrHE. 


6$ 


«rcrgreeiis,  the  one  circular,  the  other  square,  on  Hangerhillt 
at  the  west  end  of  Birkland,  which  have  succeeded  very  well* 

The  ManvetiJ  family  have  made  many  plantations  ahout 
Thoreaby  since  it  came  into  their  possession.  One  of  these^ 
partly  forest  trees  and  partly  6 r^j,  has  been  called  Howe  Grove^ 
in  honour  of  the  tirst  of  June  :  another  at  the  eaiiteru  extremity 
of  the  Auaru  adjoining  to  Thoresby  park  is  named  afler  the 
Earl  qf  St.  Vifuxm  :  and  there  is  another  on  the  boundary  of 
Budby  forest;,  called  Duncan  wood^  which  with  some  jtteeps  on 
the  forest  side  of  the  park  called  Portland  grove^  and  Benlinck 
border^  form  the  whole  of  the  Thoresby  plantations  on  that  side* 

The  extensive  plantations  at  RuBbrd  abbey^  bordering  on 
the  foretit,  first  begun  by  the  late  patriotic  sir  George  Saville* 
have  been  greatly  increased  and  improved  by  the  present 
possessor. 

The  Right  Hon.  Frederic  Montague  has  also  in  this  part  of 
the  forest  made  several  plantations,  chiefly  of  oak:  the  first  of 
these^  on  the  left  band  side  of  the  road  to  Nottingham*  is  called 
the  Hqwc  plantation  :  the  next  is  the  Spencer ;  the  third,  about 
a  mite  from  these  on  the  right  hand  side  of  the  road  is  the  Net" 
4on;  contiguous  to  which  is  the  St.  Vincent  plantation* 

Adjoining  is  another  plantation  in  honour  of  Sir  John  Borlase 
Warren's  gallant  conduct  on  the  coast  of  Ireland,  and  during 
his  command  of  the  Western  Squadron,  and  called  the  Warren 
p^ntation:  and  the  Duncan  plantation  is  formed  on  the  right 
band  sidt^  of  the  coach-road  to  Papplewtck:  whilst  on  the  most 
elevated  spots  in  these  plantations,  handsome  pillars  are  erected 
with  suitable  inscriptions. 

In  this  western  district,  and  on  the  left  hand  side  of  the  road 
to  Nottingham,  just  wht^re  the  forest  gives  way  to  modern  cul- 
tivation>  Henry  Cope,  Esq.  has  erected  a  good  house,  and  has 
alto  formed  several  extensive  plantations,  which  are  already 
become  highly  ornamental. 

On  the  eastern  Limits  of  Sherwood,  sir  Richard  Sutton^  Bart^ 
bat  made  some  very  extensive  plantations  near  Farnfield;  and 

Yoi.XIJ.  E  m 


00  KOTTIirOHAirSHIKl* 

in  one  of  th«:sej  which  encirctes  a  hill,  he  has  mised  an  eleganl 

bailding  in  the  Turkinh  style^  which  commands  a  most  extended 

and  delightful  prospect. 

Round  Kif  kby,  aome  very  large  eiumps  of  firs  and  larcheiji 
which  are  now  of  sufHcnent  growth  to  be  seen  at  a  considerable 
distance,  have  been  planted  by  Sir  Richard  Kay  e«  Bart.  L.  L.  D- 

Itfae  late  venerable  dean  of  Lincoln,  and  rector  of  this  parish* 
Towards  the  northern  limits  we  most  notice  several  very  con- 

'tfpicuou9  plantations  formed  by  Earl  Bathurst;  also  about  iifty 
acres  of  oak  and  other  forest  trees  planted  by  Robert  Ram5df«n# 
E»q»  of  Carlton  :  nor  must  we  omit  the  very  extetuive  planta-^ 
lion&of  F»  Foljambej  Esq.  roynd  Osberton,  which  with  a  pa- 
tnotiG  spirit  the  owner  is  annually  increasing. 

Upon  the  whole,  we  agree  with  the  Major  in  his  conclusion^ 
that  from  the  laudable  exertions  of  the  resident  nobility  and 
gentry,  there  is  reason  to  hope  that  the  uniiiclosed  parts  of  this 
•xtetisive  forest  of  Sherwood  will  again  be  embowered^  and 
that  succeeding  generations  will  have  occasion  and  opportunity 
to  venerate  the  majestic  oaks  planted  by  their  ancestors  at 
monuments  of  British  valour. 

To  give  some  adequate  idea  of  the  surface  of  the  forest  with 
respect  to  extents  we  shall  cloi^e  with  a  sketch  of  the  survey  lit 
1G09^  with  the  more  recent  inclosures. 


Acres* 

Ancient  inclosures  ot^ual  to*,* .44839 

woods 9486 

wastes 33080 

S940S 

CTii>s(ou  Park 158^ 

Oekwoud  Park....... .M72 

Bulwell   Park 326 

Nottingham  Park I2d 

95115 


Bmcf 


lOTTINOUAMSBIRE.  6f 

iSincc  which  time,  the  following;  inclo^ures  ha?e  taken  place* 

Acres. 

Iti  1789  in  Arnold  Forest 2280 

1792  Baiford m ,..,.1158 

1794  Sutton  m  Ash6eld .«...2608 

1795  Kirkby  in  ditto ,.--«...*.  1941 

1796  Letiton  and  Kadford 261 

8248  stores  in  allj  independent 
«f  subsequent  ioclosures^  of  which  we  have  not  been  able  to  pTQ* 
cupe  any  e&iimate. 

Having  thus  completed  our  delineation  oF  tbe  forest  it  only 
■^maini  lor  ua  to  notice  that  famous^  but  legendary  character, 

ROBIN  HOOD, 

whom  tradition  records  as  having  made  ibis  his  principal 
haunt,  and  of  whoi^e  popular  and  int creating  story  but  little 
k  known  to  any  degree  of  certainty,  though  bis  exploits  bav« 
been  celt^brated  in  ballad  in  every  succeeding  age.* 

We  shall  here  endeavour  to  collect  all  that  has  been  written 
upon  the  subject,  both  legendary  and  historical ;  and  though 
re  cannot  hope  to  throw  any  new  light  upon  a  tale  so  obscum 
I  to  t>e  by  some  considered  as  enlirely  fabulous,  we  may  at 
eatt  80  far  gratify  curiosity  as  io  present  it  with  all  that  a 
patient  research  can  afTord, 

Mr.  Throsby,  in  bis  addition  lo  Thoroton,   observes  that  tht 

tigs  if]  the  Garland  which  goes  by  his  name,  are  simply  and 

^toiically  poetized,  and  have  been  the  favonriies  of  the  lower 

Mcla&ftes  perhaps  ever  since  his   time.     We    are  very   doubtful, 

however,  of  their  having  any  particular  claim  to  antiquity,  at 

^least  in  their  present  dress.     Tbeir  internal  evidence  is  not  lu 

ivour  of  their  antiquity;  the  style  and  turn  of  expression  are 

wot  those  of  the  tweSflh  century,  nor  of  many  centuries  after- 

E  ^  wards, 

*  Sotue  few  p;uticular&  may  b«  Co U4id  in  Percy's  Et'tiqtiet;  but  Sir  J ah^ 
M^wktoj  con»idert  the  idrlivlt  vubject  m  pTtvetopcti  in  iilrnost  iaip«n«tf«b^ 
9iic«rt«intj. 


f9  KOTTIVORAMSHIRB 

wards.  One  fact  in  particnlar  is  well  worthy  of  attention^  that 
they  are  free  from  indecency,  which  is  not  the  case  with  the 
popular  ballads  even  so  late  as  the  reign  of  Elizabeth  ;  and  this 
simple  fact  alone  must  ,place  the  date  of  their  composition,  or 
of  their  present  dress,  at  a  period  not  by  any  means  remote. 
Indeed  Mr.  Throsby  partly  agrees  with  this  opinion ;  for  al- 
though he  says  that  their  remote  antiquity  cannot  be  doubted, 
he  adds  that  they  most  likely  have  been  varied  agreeably  to 
the  phraseology  of  the  different  periods  in  which  they  have 
been  recited.  We  further  agree  with  him  in  his  observation, 
that  who  were  the  authors  of  them,  nobody  knows ;  and  that 
they  were  most  probably  written  by  various  hands,  as  some  of 
them  have  much  more  of  the  spirit  of  poetry  than  others. 

That  R<^iH  Hood  however  was  not  a  fabulous  hero,  there  are 
sufficient  reasons  to  prove,  if  it  were  necessary. 

Camden  calls  him  the  gentlest  thief  that  ever  was ;  and  Major 
says  of  him, 

««  From  wealthy  abbots'  chests,  and  chorles  abendaat  store. 

What  often  times  he  tooke,  he  shared  amongst  the  poor : 

No  lordly  Bishop  came  in  Robin's  way. 

To  him,  before  he  went,  but  for  his  pass  must  pay  t 

The  widow  in  distress,  he  graciously  relieved. 

And  remedied  the  wrongs  of  many  a  virgin  grief  ed.*' 

As  early  as  ]594  his  story  seems  to  have  become  a  favourite 
subject  for  the  drama ;  for  in  that  year  was  printed  "  a  pastoral 
comedy  of  Robin  Hood  and  Little  John/'  Again  in  1634  wti 
meet  with  '*  Robin  Hood's  pastoral  May  Games;"  and  in  1730 
Robin  Hood  is  performed  as  an  opera  at  Bartholomew  Fair  in 
London.  Shortly  after  came  out  "  Robin  Hood  and  his  Crew 
of  Soldiers,"  and  in  1751  a  musical  entertainment  under  the 
name  of  **  Robin  Hood"  came  out  at  Drury-lane ;  besides  which 
we  have  had  **  Robin  Hood,  or  Sherwood  Forest"  of  a  recent 
4ate ;  all  founded  on  the  original  Garland. 

This  collection  of  ballads  is  too  well  known  to  require  the 
msertionof  any  extracts;  but  the  events  which  it  records  dif- 
fer 


fer  consitlerabty  from  what  is  considered  as  the  real  hbtoricat  bio- 
raphy  of  this  extraordinary  character,  for  such  he  certainly  was,* 
His  legendary  biography  indeed  seems  made  op  of  a  tissue 
Df  exaggerations.  It  tells  us  that  bis  father  was  ^foreuer,  and 
could  send  an  arrow  to  a  distance  of  two  north  country  miles; 
and  by  a  strange  anachronism  it  describes  his  mother  as  niece 
to  the  famous  Guy,  the  Saxon  Earl  of  Warwick. 

She  is  stated  to  have  had  a  brother  "a  notable  Squire"  who 

"lived  at  Gamewell  Hill  in  this  county,  (perhaps  corrupted  from 

Gamelstoiij  or  Gamston)  and  who  was  anxious  that  Robin  when 

a  youth,  should  live  with  bim»     This,  however,  was  prevented 

by  a  fondness  for  field  sports,  and  for  a  rambling  life,  which  led 

Hobin  to  Tuibury  in  Stalibrdshire,  not  far  from  his  birth  place 

of  Loxley>  where  he  married  a  shepherdess  under  the  poetical 

.MDame  of  CloTinda,  having  been  charmed  by  her  dexterous  man* 

Ef  of  killing  a  buck  in  the  fort^^^t. 

Bveo  at  this  early  period  of  his  life,  his  exploiu  against  the 

foresters  must  have   been  frequent ;  for  we   are   told   that  he 

killed  no  less  than  fifteen  of  them, f  all  of  whom  were  buried  in 

one  row  in  one  of  the  church  yards  at  Nottingham,     His  fame 

was  now  so  great  that  he  bad  raised  a  force  of  nearly  one  hun* 

died  followers  ;  and  in  a  short  time«  his  robberies  and  frolics,  his 

kindness  and  charity  to  the  poor,  became  the  general  theme 

E3  of 

*Dnjton  in  the  ^6th  long  of  bit  Poly  Olhian  give*  some  particiilmrt  of 
Robio  And  hit  maid  Marka  called  Chriniia  in  I  he  Garl«iid. 

f  *^  A  r^w  days  aso  &s  tanie  labouring  men  were  digging  in  a  gaidru  si 
FoiUoc  Dctir  Nottiiigliafu,  they  di*covercd  tu  buman  skeletons  intire,  de- 
posited ia  regular  order  side  by  aide,  and  supposed  to  be  part  of  the  fifteen 
fore^ttcrsthBt  were  killed  by  the  daring  outlaw  Rubin  Hood. 

•*  Near  tlie  above  place  micieiuly  stoo<l  n  cburcb,  built  in  the  early  ages  of 
CbristtiLn)tT  dedicated  loSi«  Micbuelt  aiitl  totally  dtfstroyed  at  the  reforniatioii ; 
jeC  »till  tbc  pafisbiuners  on  cerUin  times  repair  to  thi^  place  for  religious  par- 
pQtesj  it  bein^  con»idered  as  consecrated  ground.  In  thii  place  at  difijpreut 
times  great  qua nti ties  of  human  bones  hair c  been  found j  besides  sereral  Saion 
sad  old  EngUih  coins,  ke.  6lc/* 

GtnC*  Mogntine,  April  179i. 


^  YOTTINOHAMSHXRlt. 

of  conrersation,  aii<i  prodaced  a  kind  of  friendly  feeling  towards 
him,  althoQgh  an  ouUaw.  He  appears  by  the  Garland  to  have 
made  his  business  his  amnsement,  and  to  have  been  a  merry 
thief,  for  he  sports  most  jocularly  with  the  characters  and  per* 
ions  of  a  bishop,  and  the  sheriflPof  the  county,  after  robbing 
them  of  their  purses. 

Yet  he  was  not  always  victorious ;  but  seems  to  have  been 
roughly  handled  at  dii^erent  times,  by  a  tinker,  a  shepherd, 
and  a  friar,  and  several  others. 

He  is  next  described  as  going  to  London,  and  being  receired 
at  court,  where  he  appeared  in  a  scarlet  dress,  whilst  his  men 
were  clad  in  Ltncoln  green ;  all  of  them  wearing  blaek  bats  and 
white  feathers :  a  species  of  costume,  by  the  bye,  unknown  in 
the  reign  of  Richard  the  first,  or  of  John,  at  which  time  he 
lived. 

Soon  after  this,  he  is  stated  to  have  fought  a  desperate  battle 
with  Little  John,  or  John  Little,  who  was  eeven  feet  high,  in 
which  however  he  was  worsted ;  but  Little  John  notwithstand*^ 
ing  joined  the  troop,  and  became  his  faithfurfriend.*  After  this 
the  Garland  states  that  a  monk  whom  he  sent  for  to  let  him 
blood,  was  the  cause  of  his  death,  when  all  his  bowmen  fled  to 
different  countries  to  escape  that  justice  which  they  could  not 
otherwise  avoid,  now  that  their  chief  was  gone. 

Thus  far  the  Garland ;  but  the  author  of  the  "  Anecdotes  of 
Archery,"  who  seems  to  have  paid  considerable  attention  in  his 
research  afler  the  real  events  of  this  outlaw's  life,  gives  us  some 
other  particulars  which  have  a  great  semblance  of  authenticity. 
He  describes  him  as  at  the  head  of  two  hundred  strong,  reso- 
lute men,  and  expert  archers,  ranging  the  forest  of  Sherwood, 
but  not  remaining  there  always. 

Fuller 

*  There  it  a  loose  paper  iti  Athmole*i  hand  writing  in  the  Oxford  masenm, 
which  says  "  the  famous  Little  John  (Robin  Hood's  companion)  lies  boned 
in  Hethersedge  charch*jard,  in  the  peak  of  Derbyshire ;  one  ttooe  at  hit 
head;  another  at  his  feet)  and  part  of  his  bow  hangs  np  in  thechnith* 
A.  D.  161f. 


yOTTIKOHAltSlltEV. 


71 


Fuller  says  that  hi»  principal  resirlence  was   in  Sherwood 
forest,^  though  he  had  another  haunt  near  the  »ea,  itt  the  north 
ridtng  of  Yorkfihire,   where  Robin    Hood*s  bay  still  bears  bit 
name :  and  Charlton,  in  hia  "  History  of  Whitby/'  observes  that 
Robing  when  closely  pursued  by  ihe  civil  or  military  power, 
found  it   necessary  to  lea? e  his  usual  haunts,   retreated  across 
the  moors  to  Whitby  in  Yorkshire,  where   he  always  had  in 
readiness  some  sniall  fishing  vessels,  and  in  those  putting  dV 
to  sea»  he  looked   upon   himsetf  as  quite  secure,  and  held  the 
tr  hole  power  of  the  English  nation  at  detiance.     The  "Anec- 
dotes of  Archery"   add,  that   the  principal   place  of  bis  retort 
At  tJiese  times,   and  where   his   boats  were  generally  laid  up, 
was  about  six  miles  from  Whitbyi  still  known  as  Robin  Hood's 
baf .     It  is  then  stated  to  be  a  tradition  in  that  neighbourhood, 
that   in  one  of  these   peregrinations,    he  went  to  dine   with 
Richard  the  abbot  of  Whitby,  accompanied  by  his   friend  Lit- 
tle John ;  when  the  abbots  who  had  often  heard  with  wonder 
of  their  great  skill  in  shooting  with  the  long  bow,  requested 
after  dinner  that  he  might  have  a  specimen  of  their  dexterity* 
iTbe  two  friends^  in  order  to  oblige  their  courteous  entertainer^ 
accompanied  the  abbot  to  the  top  of  the  abbey  tower;  from  this 
elevation  each   of  them  shot   an   arrow  which   fell  close   by 
Whitby  Laths,     To  preserve  the  memory  of  this  transaction, 
and  to  mark  the  distance,  the  abbot  set  up  a  pillar  on  the  spot 
where  each  arrow  fell;  the  distance  being  more  than  a  mea- 
sured mile.     That  there  were  two  pillars  standing  at  Whitby  a 
few  years  ago,  is  beyond  a  doubt,  and  that  they  were  called  af^ 
ier  these  (wo  friends  is  equally  certain ;  but  that  there  is  any 
real  foundation  for  the  story,  we  will  not  pretend  to  say. 

The  "  Anecdotes^*  then  proceed  to  state   that  he   was  out- 
lawed, and  a  price  set  upon  bi^  head  ;  and  detail  several  stra- 

E  4  tagems 


*  Kittoii,  mlio  rcrtniiily  hat  ikewn  indefAtignble  research  iti  his  "  Robin 
Hood"  ui  two  voluaics^  sa^i  ibat  Boni^di^lc  forest  in  Yurkthiro,  wwl  PloFny^ 
ton  patk  ill  CgnjberluuJ,  wer«  alftolwuof  bl^>  fAvoiirilc  hauiitK 


79  yOTTIVOHAMSHlRE. 

ttgems  which  were  put  in  practice  to  ensnare  him  but  in  Tain ; 
tot  force  he  repelled  by  force,  and  stratagem  by  moreskilinl 
wiles.  At  length  the  force  sent  against  him  was  so  poweHnl 
that  many  of  his  followers  fell,  and  the  remainder  baying  been 
ibrced  lor  personal  safety  to  desert  him,  he  sought  shelter  and 
protection  in  the  priory  of  Kirklees  in  Yorkshire,  the  prioreu 
of  which  was  his  near  relative.  Here  it  is  said  old  age,  dissap* 
]K>intmeut,  and  violent  faiigae,  brought  on  a  disease  which  re- 
quired venesection,  when  the  monk  who  was  called  to  perform 
the  operation,  either  through  ignorance  or  design,  wounded  an 
artery,  and  he  bled  to  death. 

Convinced  that  his  end  was  approaching,  and  wishing  to 
mark  the  spot  for  his  last  repose,  he  called  for  his  bow,  and  let* 
ting  fly  two  arrows,  the  first  fell  into  the  river  Calder,  but  the 
second  failing  into  the  park,  pointed  out  the  place  of  sepulture. 
His  death  is  said  to  have  Uken  place  on  the  eve  of  Christmas 
day  1274;  and  on  his  tomb,  which  still  remains  in  Kirklees 
park,  the  following  epitaph  is  said  to  have  been  inscribed  by 
the  prioress. 

"  He^  andernead  dis  Util  stean, 
LaU  Robert  Earl  of  Huntington ; 
Kea  arcir  rer  as  hie  ta  geod« 
And  pipl  kauld  im  Robin  Heod : 
LieJc  atlas  at  bi  an  is  men 
yU  England  ni?T  see  agen."^ 

The  question  now  naturally  arises,  "  who  and  what  was  this 
Kobin  Hood,  earl  of  Huntingdon  ?t 

That 

*  A  drawing  of  this  tomb  is  preserved  bj  Googh  in  bit  SepnlchTal  Bfonn- 
neutt ,  but  we  are  told  that  the  late  Sir  Samuel  Armitage  canted  the  ttone  to 
be  taken  up,  and  the  groaud'below  it  to  be  dog  a  yard  deep,  which  appeared 
nef er  before  to  have  been  rooFed.  It  was  thence  tnpposed  that  thit  coold  not 
bare  been  the  place  of  hit  interment. 

Mr.  Ritton  alto  on  the  aothority  of  one  of  the  Sloanian  M8S.  tayt  that  it  was 
the  prioreit  who  bled  him,  and  taffersd  him  to  bleed  to  death. 

t  Robin  Hood  hu  not  beea  mentkaied  by  any  of  the  clericci  writers  of 

that 


KOTTINGHAMSIIIRC. 


7$ 


Thai  no  nobleman  of  that  name  ever  existed  in  EngJandj  ii 
beyond  a  doubt.  John  Le  Scot,  of  the  royal  family  of  Scot- 
landj  was  earl  of  Huntingdon  in  1^19.  He  died  shortly  after, 
and  the  title  was  extinct  until  13-57,  when  it  was  conferred  on 
William  de  Clinton^  which  compl cutely  filh  up  the  period  of 
Eobin  Hood's  life. 

It  hai  indeed  been  said  that  bis  name  was  Head  or  Hood* 
and  that  he  was  the  son  of  a  noble ntam  Others  Jgain  have 
been  of  opinion  that  in  the  unsettled  rergii  ot  Richard  the  fir^ 
be  was  one  of  those  youths  that  resented  the  inclosing  of  tl»c 
forest,  and  being  prosecuted  by  the  officers  of  the  crown»  he 
was  tempted  both  for  bis  own  security  and  out  of  revonf;;e*  to 
raise  a  band  of  archers,  who  acting  under  his  command  infested 
all  the  towns  within  the  forest  and  in  its  vicinity,  robbing  aU 
rich  travellers,  but  tiever  proceeding  to  acts  of  blood  shed,  ex* 
cept  in  se1f*defenee.  It  has  been  said  tooj  that  he  was  a  greal 
fjiirourite  in  many  parts  of  the  country,  in  consequence  of  his 
hoarding  up  the  dilferent  articles  which  he  obtained  in  hit 
course  of  robbery,  until  they  amounted  to  a  con^^iderable  stuck, 
when  he  exposed  them  for  sale  at  a  particular  place  on  the 
borders  of  the  forests  where  his  Kales  were  as  regularly  attended 
as  a  fair;  and  there  is  no  doubt  that  his  customers  got  their 
purchases  pretty  cheap,  from  whence  arose  tht;  proverb  of 
selling  Robin  Hood's  penny  worths.^ 

Am 

that  period,  wlitch,  Mr,  Ilit5on«  (ituteid  of  toiisideriiig  U  us  sQ  argument 
[^•gsifift  bi»  existence,)  h  of  optnicM),    ^jit  owing  to  the  inveterate  hatred 
and  enmity  which  the  uuclawed  foresters  alwaj's  shewed  towards  that  ordcr^ 
who  were  aUo  Uien  the  bwyert  ol  (he  time, 

*  There  is  snoihcr  proverb  respecting  biin,  recorded  by  Fuller  ia  hi»  Wot • 
thiet  of  England.—"  Manj  talk  uf  tiubiii  flood  who  never  shot  out  of  hii 
bow'^ — that  ij,  adds  thia  quaint  historian,  "  mmiy  dincaurse  for  prate  rather) 
«f  matters  whereia  ihey  have  no  «kiJl  or  experience.  Thii  proverb  ii  now 
fitmded  ail  ofer  £ngl(itid,  though  originally  of  NoUinghamshire  eilraction." 
Toiler  then  goeaou  to  »y  "  ill  at  he  wa»  an  arch  robber,  and  withal  an  excel  JenI 
srchtr  i  though  tQfcJj  the  poet  gave  a  twang  to  the  loose  of  hit  arrow ;  raak- 

iiig 


r4 


llOTTtNAllAM9IIlR£* 


As  far  as  rcgarcls  historical  feet,  be  is  certainty  mentioned  m 
our  different  annals;  and  Rapin  notices  him   so  far  as  to 
that  about  1199  lived  the  famous  Robin  Hood  with  his  co 
panion  Little  John,  who  were  said  to  infest  Yorkshire  with  their 
robberies. 

In  the  Harleian  collection  of  MSS.  also  at  the  British  Mo«e 
in  No.  153-1,  p.  199,  there  is  the  following  article,  though 
know  not  on  what  authority^  nor  by  whom  written. 

*'  Robin  Hoo^l,  accompanied  with  one  called  Little  John, 
lested  passengers  on  the  high  way,  temp*  Rich.  I.  of  whom  it  it 
said  that  he  was  olf  noble  bloody  no  tesse  than  au  Earle*  Having 
wasted  his  estate  in  riotous  courses,  very  penury  forced  him  to 
flteale*  The  Kmge  att  last  sett  forth  a  proclamation  to  hafi€ 
htm  apprehended;  at  which  time  it  happened  he  fell  ill  at  a 
nunnery  in  Yorkshire,  called  BiV^d^y* j,*  and  desiring  there  to 
let  blood,  he  was  betrayed  and  made  bleed  t<>deaih/' 

But  the  question  seems  now  pretty  well  set  at  rest,  by  Still 
ley  in  his  Palfieographia  Britannia,  VoL  2,  p.  115,  where  he 
jectures  bis  true  name  to  be  Fin  Octht  and  that  he  w^as  de* 
scended  from  a  Norman  chief  of  that  namej  fvho  was  lord  of 
Kyme  in  Lincolnshire  immediately  after  the  conquest,  and 
further  that  his  mother  was  daughter  of  Payne  Beauchamp  and 
Koisia  de  Vcrc. 

The  Pedigree  appears  then  to  run  in  the  following  manner 
Richard  Fitz  Gilbert  or  de  Clare,  earl  of  Brion  in  Normandy, 
married  Alice  daughter  of  Waltheof  who  was  earl  of  Hunting* 
don  in  1068  in  right  of  his  wife  Judith  niece  to  William  the 
Conqueror.  He  had  a  son  by  this  Alice,  Robert  Fitz  Gilbert, 
whose  daughter  Roisia  having  married  Gilbert  de  Gaunt^  had 
a  daughter  Maud  wife  of  Ralph  Fitz  Ooth,  or  Oetk,  a  Normaa,    { 

and 

ittg  him  ahoot  oae  a  cloth  yard  long,  at  full  fortj  score  markj  for  ctMspaia 
fterer  higher  than  the  breast,  and  wtibin  ie«i  than  a  f(»ot  of  Che  mark. 

"  But  herein  oar  author  hmth  verified  the  (irOTerb,  talking  tt  large  of  Rohiii 
Uood,  in  whose  bo«  he  never  shot  !'* 

*  TbisbeTidentl^  an  error  in  copjing  from  some  ^Id  MS.  for  Xtrtltet. 


VOTTIKGHAMftBlAt.  fS" 

wnA  lord  of  Kyme  in  Lincolnshire.    Of  this  marriage  was  WiU 

liam  Fita  Ooth,  who  was  brought  up  by  Robert  de  Vere  earl  of 

Oxford,  and  married  a  relative  of  bis  patron,  the  daughter  of 

Paganel  Beauchamp  and  Roisia  de  Vere  of  the  Oxford  family. 

Robert  Fits  Ooth  was  the  son  by  this  match,  and  he  certainly 

could  thus  prove  a  descent  from  the  first  earl  of  Huntingdon* 

thoagh  his  claim  to  the  title  might  not  be  so  certain ;  and  yet  it 

must  be  acknowledged  that  he  was  at  least  one  qf  the  repretenta" 

ihts  of  Waltheof  the  lirst  earl,  by  his  daughter  Alice ;  a  claim  of 

some  importance  when  it  is  recollected  that  Waltheof  leaving 

no  son,  the  title  of  Huntingdon,  after  his  death,  was  carried  by 

another  daughter  Maud  to  her  husband  Simon  St.  Liz,  who  was 

the  second  earl,  but  left  no  issue ;  and  Maud  marrying  to  her 

second  hasband  David,  prince,  and  afterwards  king,  of  Scotland, 

he  became  third  earl  of  Huntingdon  in  right  of  his  marriage ;  but 

this  line  failed  in  John  Le  Scot  who  was  the  tenth  earl  of  Hon* 

tingdon,  but  died  without  issue  in  1337,  from  which  time  until 

1337,  when  the  title  was  conferred  as  a  new  grant  on  William 

de  Clinton,  it  appears  to  have  been  considered  as  extinct. 

Throsby,  who,  in  his  additions  to  Thoroton,  seems  to  bare 
taken  a  very  comprehensive  view  of  this  subject,  observes  that 
imder  these  circumstances,  the  title  may  actually  have  been 
claimed  by  Robert  Fitz  Ooth  ;  and  there  is  great  weight  in  m 
subsequent  observation  where  he  says,  it  has  been  supposed  that 
he  might  have  been  driven  to  his  predatory  course  of  life,  in 
consequence  of  the  troubled  state  of  Henry  the  second's  reign, 
or  perhaps  adbpted  it,  being  dissatisfied  with  the  refusal  of  hit 
claims,  particularly  as  his  father  William  Fitz  Ooth  might  have 
been  implicated  in  the  consequences  of  the  rebellion  of  the 
king's  eUlest  son,  the  prince  Henry;  for  in  the  rebellion 
the  earl  of  Ferrers  took  the  prjpce's  side,  and  he  was  lord 
of  Loxley,  which  has  been  said  to  be  the  birth  place  of  Robin 
Hood.  It  may  also  not  be  irrelevant  to  observe,  that  the  fact 
of  his  being  something  more  than  a  mere  robber  is  evident  from 
the  considerable  force  which  he  was  able  to  raise  and  to  keep 

4  together. 


ill  llic  l^odivy  ^afti^ 
veil  »  lm$ph  of  ysM  an  ttejBi 

I  Mill  •Utsr'iff,  to  arrtM  or  crca  la 4« 

|#cU«l»  Mr  U  likely  ever  la  te 

artMimry  characl^^  asd  mm/L  mtm  lfai»a 

t^ lu»ionj  ofiUiriab^Mi* 

r  Jivbioo  now  kadi  Q»  ta  iIm 


>  vayal  afsiT«  or  < 


ciem  co^- 


TOWN  OF  NOTTINGHAM; 


Miacli  hi  which,  on  any  sad^,  is  portf  enlariy  itfi^g  la 

'4^ ,wl|fr;  timJ  it  may  be  jimly  «tid  thai  Uiite  b |iafia| 

||I0  loWH  ii^  (iiv  cmpiro  wKicti  ajipears  under  such  a  rarktjf  afl 

|#iliti'*Ul  it  ttlii  duei*  from  its  ditlereni  points  of  view.    Tbe 

mivM   wIm*  tfirrivci  by   the    I^tiJon  road,   cannol  6iil  btiag 

\%Unw\\  %m  %[^mi9^mUttg  the  Kill  by  Fiumpir^e,  to  see  tbe  feftilt 

^h  0I  IWiH  liuuildcd  by  the  august  rock  on  vrhtch  ii  lUfids, 

I  ^    t     '        — »      It  II  prtcipilous  hit  I  to  the  W(i»  the  long  p:»ast 

iuxWy   iiinkitig  tnlo  the  plain  00   kis  rigbl, 

aimI  Ibf   Htiul«  ivra^ ned  by  li)(s  graceful  tower  of  5i*  Mary's. 

ibMitbl  be  «iM«i  by  ibc  c'liM vrn  «iile  from  the  Newark  r^d*  tlie 

fhuW  iHtiAi  i»(  buibJiM)t  U  tbcu  foi  ojihortened«  the  tower  of  St. 

Ury*t  Aiid  Ibi*  iTtill^  i^re  nearly  m  oiie«  whiUt  the  long  Line  of  j 

Jl\  t  XiV^w  bridgen  raifte  idcti^  of  its  mze  aiid  itapoit- 

i^pimrtnuly  t'licuiuacribed  lin^ks  wouM  nolatber- 

wUa  hikveji«i*l^(i»d«     If  ho  comet  from  the  norths  from  Mannfialik 

Ibi  I<m0r  fif  St  Miiry'«t  ^ii^   preeminent,  i&  the  only   object 

nvlllf  b  iimrka  bU  approach  to  tbc  hAbitaiiou  of  gregarious  man^ 

anill  Ko  rliaf  Ibt  hiti  above  ihe  race  ground^  when  the  ivbole 

f^  Ui»on  his  wtonijdied  sight,  as  if  by  enchantment^ 

h)w«  lien  At  hh  feci;  he  sees  ibe  Ltinc  and  the  Trem^ 

ilifmiAiilli[ij  tnd  beyond  these  the  vale  of  Bel  voir  m  almost  urt* 

6  Itmiied 


% 


K0TT1N0IIAM8U1RE.  77 

limited  extent,  skirted  partly  by  the  Leicestershire  hills,  seemt 
like  anew  world  starting  into  existence.  It  is,  in  short,  impossible 
for  any  man  of  taste  or  feeling  to  view  the  scene  without  experi- 
encing emotions  that  he  must  allow  to  be  indescribable— emotions 
tuch  as  the  Jewish  lawgiver  may  have  felt  on  Pisgah's  meant 
Then  the  approach  on  the  western  road  from  Derby,  is  com- 
pletely different  from  the  others.  Oo  arriving  at  Wollaton 
park -gate,  the  town  is  just  seen;  all  that  is  descried  is  then  in 
a  commanding  situation,  and  this  is  perhaps  the  point  of  view 
•which  impresses  a  stranger  with  the  highest  ideas  of  the  place : 
on  the  right,  the  castle  and  its  commanding  clifis  boldly  start- 
ing from  the  verdant  swells  in  the  park;  in  the  centre  the  bar- 
racks appearing  to  form  a  town  of  themselves  ;  and  to  the  left,  a 
number  ofwindmilis  which  immediately  excite  the  idea  ofaDutch 
or  Flemish  town.  To  the  north  he  looks  down  upon  the  forest^ 
with  Its  foreground  flat,  but  in  high  cultivation ;  around  are 
numerous  villas,  and  respectable  manufacturer's  country  re* 
treats;  on  all  sides  the  country  appears  rich,  well  cultivated^ 
and  populous;  and  the  noise  of  the  stocking  frames  is  heard  in 
most  of  the  houses. 

The  sounds  of  industry  on  all  sides  present  indeed  a  different 
picture  from  that  drawn  by  a  facetious  traveller,  sometime  in  the 
seventeenth  century,  who,  in  his  journey  to  the  north,  says, 

"  TlicHce  to  Nottingham  where  rorert, 
Higliway  riders,  Sherwood  drovers. 
Like  old  Robin  Hood  and  Scarlet, 
Or  like  Little  John  his  varlet ; 
Here  and  there  they  show  thcro  doughtj 
In  cells  and  woods  to  get  their  booty.*'* 


At  the  same  time  it  must  be  confessed,  that  although  the  •a- 
trance  on  the  western  side  is  open  and  airy,  yet  the  long  line 
dfktreet  filled  with  low  manufacturing  cotuges  does  not  im- 
press 

*  Vide  Drunkea  Bamaby's  Journej. 


7S 


%  0TTI17G  n  AMSHIRB. 


ptt»M  the  traTetler  witli  any  high  ideas  of  either  the  ele, 
or  comfort  of  the  town  itself. 

Noiiinghnm,  we  are  told  by  Camden«  and  his  whole  sabee^ 
quent  train  of  copyists,  has  the  honour  of  giving  a  name  to 
county  at  large.  This  is  evidently  softened  from  the  Saxon 
»«  Snottinghani/'  an  appellation  given  it  on  account  of  the  sub- 
terranean caverns  and  passages  hollowed  out  in  ancient  times  for 
houses  and  retreats  under  those  craggy  rocks  on  the  south  side, 
banging  over  the  river  Lene.  An  old  etymologist  (Asserius) 
informs  us  that  the  Saxon  name  may  be  latinized  into  **  Spe» 
luncarum  Domus/'  or  the  house  of  caverns^  and  that  if  tnina- 
lated  into  British,  it  would  be  •'  Tui  Ogo  Bancj"  a  name  which 
however  we  have  no  authority  to  say  was  ever  given  to  this 
place* 

There  is  perhaps  no  town  in  the  kingdom,  who«e  origin  is  hid 
in  greater  obscurity  than  Nottingham,  and  there  is  certainly 
none  which  has  given  rise  to  a  greater  variety  of  conjectures,  ^^B 

Stukely  says,*  one  may  easily  guess  Nottingham  to  bafS^^ 
been  an  ancient  town  of  the  Britons,  As  soon  as  they  had 
proper  tools,  he  adds,  they  fell  to  work  upon  the  rocks,  which 
every  where  oiler  themselves  so  commodiously  to  make  housei 
iti^  and  he  doubts  not  that  here  there  was  a  considerable  collec* 
ttoji  of  dwellings  of  this  sort. 

Dr.  Thoroiunf  seems  to  consider  all  memorials  of  its  origin  aa 
entirely  lost  i  and  places  no  conEdence  whatever  in  John  Rouse, 
a  monk  of  Warwick,  and  canon  of  Osneyj  who,  io  his  history 
addressed  to  king  Henry  the  seventh,  tells  a  long  tale  of  the  an- 
Uqutiy  of  Nottingham  9bi^  years  before  the  Christian  era ; J  at 

which 

*Stukelf^'i  Iliiierary,  pnge  49.  t  Thoroton's  Survey  of  Notta- 

t  Lcland  in  lu^  Collcctaucii  V^o).  3,  |k  43t  gives  us  aotue  rragnients  from  % 
Chronicle  which  he  coRftiders  os  ihc  work  of  an  unknown  or  uncertain  writer^ 
Who  iCt!iiiJito  have  written  an  epitome  of  Geoffrey  of  Monnionih^  and  to  have 
loaerted  many  thrng^  which  are  not  to  be  found  even  in  Geoffrey *»  work,  and 
iprhose  authority  is  certainly  tlius  rendered,  ifp(*ntbte,  more  doobtful.  Herf 
wt  are  told  of  king  Ebrancusj  wlio  built  on  the  duhrQUi  lull  ihsi  which  ts  now 

Nottin^faain . 


irOTTlllOHAMSHlEfi.  79 

which  time,  according  to  him,  king  Ebranc  built  a  town  on  the, 
banks  of  Trent,  and  partly  on  this  **  Dolorous''  hill,  a  nam* 
which  it  had  acquired,  from  the  extreme  grief  of  the  Britons^ 
in  consequence  of  a  great  slaughter  of  them  by  king  Humber, 
and  which  took  place. here  in  the  reign  of  king  Albanact  Foe 
this  piece  of  original  secret  history,  indeed,  the  reverend  monk 
does  not  fiivoor  us  with  any  authority ;  nor  can  ^e  help  think* 
iiig  it  a  piece  of  unnecessary  labour  in  Dering,*  in  his  hist<Nr][ 
of  the  town,  being  at  the  trouble  of  proving  that  the  Britons 
being  little  better  than  savages  at  Caesar's  coming,  which  was 
oaJy  half  a  century  before  the  commencement  of  the  Christian 
«n»  so  it  was  not  likely  that  they  should  have  b^n  more  civi- 
lised 900  years  earlier. '  Dr.  Dering  however,  like  other,  writeriu 
indulges  himself  also  in  conjecture ;  but  as  there  is  some  apt* 
pearance  of  plausibility  in  his  opinion,  we  shall  slightly  notice 
Its  tnbstance.  He  conceives  then  that  the  most  which  can  be 
topposed  with  a  due  regard  to  probability,  is  that  considering 
tiie  convenient  situation  of  that  part  of  the  forest  of  Sherwood^ 
in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  site  of  the  present  town»  it  ie 
not  nnlikely  that  several  colonies  of  Britons  had  planted  them* 
eeives  hereabouts,  where  they  were  sheltered  from  the  incle* 
mency  of  the  most  prevalent  winds  of  the  winter  season,  accom* 
modated  with  the  convenience  of  a  southern  aspect,  and  with 
plenty  of  water.  Nay,  like  Dr.  Stukely,  he  imagines  it  highly 
probable,  that  as  soon  as  these  people  were  provided  with  tools  for 
the  purpose,  finding  in  these  parts  a  yielding  rock,  they  might 
improve  their  habitations  by  making  their  way  into  the  main 
rock,  and  framing  to  themselves  convenient  apartments  in  it,  and 
that  perhaps  long  before  the  Romans  came  into  this  neigh- 
bourhood. 

Nottingham  \  and  immediateljr  after  it  is  stated  that  Lucius  son  of  Helena 
caused  four  cities  to  be  founded,  one  of  uhirh  was  Nottingham.  Upon  tbe 
whole;  it  teems  that  the  Monkish  writers  were  ignorant  of,  or  inattentive  to, 
that  wholesome  adage,  that  people  of  a  certain  habit  ought  to  have  goo4.  nt- 
m9tlm. 

*  Daring's  Town  of  Nottingham. 


90  .      VOTtlVORAIItHIRV. 

bourhood.  He  seems  to  lay  the  greater  stress  upon  this  conjeo*-- 
ture«  in  consequence  of  the  discovery  made  by  some  workmen  em* 
ployed  by  lord  M  idd  leton  in  1 740,  to  level  a  deep  and  narrow  way 
between  the  two  hills  called  the  Sand-bills  on  the  Derby  road 
approaching  to  Chapel  Bar ;  for  when  these  workmen  had  re- 
moved a  good  deal  of  the  sandy  part  of  the  hills,  they  met  here 
and  there  with  excavations  which  (upon  clearing  away  the 
sand  from  them,)  appeared  to  form  the  partition  walls  of  several 
rooms,  of  difierent  altitudes,  cut  out  of  the  solid  rock.  These, 
the  Doctor  thought,  had  no  marks  of  being  of  Roman  workman- 
ship, and  he  therefore  considers  them  as  British.  These  re- 
mains he  eren  considers  as  of  higher  antiquity  than  the  esca- 
lations in  the  rock  on  which  Nottingham  stands ;  and  having 
roundly  asserted,  (which  may  indeed  be  true)  that  the  whole 
rock  on  which  the  town  is  built  is  so  undermined  and  hollowed 
•ut,  that  it  is  almost  a  question,  whether  the  solid  contents  of 
what  is  erected  on  the  top  would  fill  up  the  cavities  under 
ground,  he  comes  to  the  conclusion  that  the  sand  of  the  place 
in  question  was  brought  from  the  Nottingham  excavations,  and 
that  it  would  not  have  been  lodged  upon  the  ute  of  these  cham* 
bers  if  they  had  not  been  in  a  ruinous  state,  and  therefore  of  con- 
siderable  antiquity.  He  adds  that  there  are  other  sand  hills 
about  the  town  where  the  same  discoveries  have  been  made, 
which  have  given  rise  to  a  tradition  that  the  ancient  town  of  Not- 
tingham stood  further  to  the  northward  ;  and  is  of  opinion  that 
these  straggling  habitations  formed  no  part  of  the  town  in  the 
Saxon  times,  being  considerably  without  that  wall  which  Ed- 
ward the  elder  constructed  for  the  defence  of  Nottingham. 

The  Doctor  then  adverts  to  a  story  of  Coilus,  a  British  king, 
having  been  buried  here  in  the  year  of  the  world  3833,  a  period 
which  in  ancient  chronology  falls  in  between  the  destruction  of 
Sodom  and  Gomorrah,  and  the  destruction  of  Troy  :  but  though 
possessed  of  all  the  prejudices  natural  to  a  local  historian,  he 
acknowledges  that  even  this  is.no  more  a  proof,  if  true,  of  the  an- 
tiquity of  Nottingham,  than  that  the  certainty  of  some  Indian 

hau 


>0TtiaOHAMiniftB.  M 

iMtslMving  stood  ft  thoufltad  yean  age  oa  the  preiont  teiUt  ef 
New  York>  or  Philadelphia^  would  carry  their  aptiqotty  teck 
beyond  the  days  of  Wtllmm  Peim. 

After  all  ihese  conjecturea  we  can  only  aay  that  tfa»«rf^ 
thing  certain  iB,  thai  there  is  no  authentic  hbtory  extant  whieh 
givesany  account  of  the  /Ira  formation  of  the  carerne  of  cor 
ancient  Ttcglodfftt^  ;  we  nny,  therefore^  safely  infer  that  they 
are  anterior  to  all  authentic  history,  and,  of  oonne,  older  than 
the  time  of  the  Romans.    How  fer  they  may  be  carried  hmfpmi 
that  perfod  is»  however,  perhaps  fer  vrer  hid  in  obscurity  ;*  but 
if  wo  might  be  allowed  to  add  efw  eonjlBctore  to  the'  many  nU 
feady  fai  ezistence»  we  should  certainly  Tehture  to  ntppoie  that 
they  could  not  have  been  made,  before  the  island  of  Britain 
was  inkoHied,  though  probably  very  soon  after;  and  we  wmf 
venture  to  predict  that  when  the  one  era  is  settled  precisely  by 
coid^Uiring  antiquaries,  the  other  may  then  be  guessed '  4t 
within  a  century  or  two !    We  come  now  to  a  period  of  Topo- 
graphical history,  which  might  be  supposed  attended  with  few 
difficulties;  but  the  real  antiquary  seems  possessed  of  the  pro* 
perty  of  the  Cuttle  fish,  which  throws  oipt  such  a  quantity  of 
ink  around  it,  that  it  is  impossible  to  trace  it  in  the  obscurity* 
When  the  emperor  Antoninus  drew  op  his  Itinerary,  through 
the  island  of  Britain,  beseems  to  have  been  anxious  to  settle 
both  the  names  of  places,  and  their  distances,  with  great  pre* 
cision ;  unfortunately,  however,  not  being  gifted  with  prophetic 
powers,  he  has  not  told  us^  what  these  places  would  be  called 
in  succeeding  ages,  and  there  are  now  as   many  disputes  trpofi 
ike  road,  where  the  Romans  were,  and  where  they  were  not, 
that  a  plain  jog  trot  traveller  can  scarcely  get  along.    Even 
round  this  very  spot,  now  under  examination,  two  very  learned 
men.  Dr.  Gale,  and  Mr.  Baxter,  have  kicked  up  tuck  a  dusi,  that 
if  they  had  both  travelled  the  same  road,  the  traveller  in  search 
of  truth  would  have  been  blinded ;  they  seem  not  to  have  tra« 
veiled  the  same  road,  however,  and  therefore  there  is  a  differ- 
ence of  twenijf  miici  in  their  distances ;  or  perhaps,  for  a  more 
.    Vol.  XU.  F  logical 


9QnmBAvsBTsm. 


Mte. 


r«r 


14 1 


Koir  t^i  hMl 


iiiiiiiiM;  at  Bcif  Cartctum  ; 


nf  lo  be  Caster,  thw^giiAgdiUMiceii  oolTSSMika;  Ctei 
,IH«»  bt  caUa  CniitliM>  thoack  ibe  dlrtne«  mmkfMt 
tmal  the  ditfaase  Ha   fiadiiii  la  t^o  wtei  sbortaf  I 
Iliiierary  ;  and^  tboagfa  lie  adds  a  mile  froai 

iMkidllMa&tlcashartaf  thewiMfelediiMK^    Far 
and  Gale  agree  to  a  diaUiica  of  lOS  aUea^  whiiit 
Baxter  can  only  produce  S5« 

Much  ink  has  been  tpiUed,  nay  wailed*  om  baib  aidat  af 
queftion  ;  we  shall,  therefore,  add  as  littk  aa  povible,  la  ite^ 
ij*i»nlity ;  it  is  necesiary,  however,  to  state,  that,  aitha^  it 
•upporteri  of  Mr.  Baxter  assert  that  there   have  never   bceii^ 
any  Roman   cojiir,  or  um«,  discovered  at  NottiDghani,  aa 
invariably  the  case  at  all  their  acknowledged  statioo*;  yet 
there  U  lafficient  proof,  that  there  were  Roman  stations  wjtli«i 
til  Aiffht  of  the  rock  on  which  Nottingham  stands,  it  is  not  like* 
1  y  that  a  place  whoee  situation  was  so  comroaodang*  and  sa  ca« 
I  Mble  of  defence,  would  have  escaped  their  notice*     But  Dr. 
Gale  bring*  further  proof  in  support  of  his  opinion^  that  Cftii- 
icnnii  wa«  our  modern  Nottingham  ;  for  he  shews  clearly,  that 
Cautennii,  or  Caufenui*,  were  the  Homan  changes  of  the  word 
Ccven,  from  whence,  in  Various  placet,  were  the  names  of  *'  Go- 
fennis,*'  **  Gobannium,"  kc.  Cctcn  being  the  ancient  British 
for  a  cluster  of  rocks,  and  Kaff,  or  Kaoup  in  the  same  langtiage, 
signify  tug  a  cavern, 
Bf.  Gale,  indeed,  perhaps  goes  too  far,  ki  supposing  that  tha 

excavat»oa$ 


NOTTIKGHAMSHIEI.  §# 

extavatiom  are  Horoan;  if  they  had  been  so*  it  is  not  probable 
that  they  would  have  had  a  name  latinized  from  the  British  ;  for 
there  is  no  instance  whatever,  on  record,  in  which  Ihe  Hotnans 
bad  adopted  British  words  for  the  names  of  places  of  their  own 
erection*  That  the  caverns  existed^  therefore,  before  the  Ro- 
man settlement  seems  beyond  a  doubt;  it  is  still  probable^ 
however,  that  the  Romans  may  have  availed  themselves  of  ihe 
then  existing  caves,  and  may  even  have  added  others* 

A  periud  of  greater  certainty  begins  in  the  seventh  century, 
ftt  which  time  it  is  allowed  by  all  historians^  that  Nottingham 
WES  a  considerable  place,  and  bad  a  strong  tower,  for  its  de* 
fence ;  and  it  is  certain^  that^  during  the  Saxon  heptarchy,  it  had 
ihe  name  of  Snottingham^  from  Snoitinga,  signifying  cavegt 
%miHam,  a  home  or  dwelling  place,  or  perhaps  used  with  a 
plural  signification.  It  is  Dr.  Bering's  opinion,  that  this  Saxon 
tiame  was  doubtless  given  to  it,  by  that  people,  from  the  con- 
dition they  found  the  neighbourhood  in»  before  they  tbein<(elves 
made  improvements  by  building.  It  then  belonged  to  iht 
kingdom  of  Mercia,  and  a  part  olf  that  kingdom  took  alter* 
wards,  in  king  AUred's  reign,  its  name  from  this  town,  Snotting- 
bam  Scyre. 

It  is  rather  curiou.^,  that  all  the  learned  investigators  of  the 
uriginof  Nottingham  should  have  overlooked  a  particular  cir- 
cumstance, which  seems  to  throw  a  new  light  upon  its  state,  in 
the  Saxon  times,  and  perhaps,  for  some  ages  previous  to  thern^ 
If  the  Saxon  origin,  of  ihe  name  of  Nottingham,  is  correct, 
pay  W€  not  suppose  also,  that  Snottengat  or  SncitengcUan,  may 
liave  been  corrupted  into  Snenton,  or  Sneinton.  If,  then,  there 
"Were  two  places  existing  in  the  Saxon  times,  by  the  names  of 
iSnottinga A a/fi,  and  Snottenga/ori,  it  is  a  yery  probable  conjee* 
ture,  that  the  spot  designated  by  the  appellative  of  ton,  was 
more  considerable  than  that  which  had  only  the  adjunct  of  ham, 
inasmuch  as  a  town  is  larger  than  a  village,  or  hamlet.  That 
P|Ucb  was  the  origin  of  the  name  of  Sneinton,  now  a  village  ad* 
|(^ining  to  Nottingham,  seems  almost  beyond  a  doubt,  when  we 

F  "S  consider 


•4  VOTTIVOHAMSntftB. 

coniider  Umt  ii  potseflses  ezteiisiTe'  cav^mii  of  an  antiquity 
equal  to  that  of  tlie  latter  place,  or  at  leatt  apparently  so :  and 
It  is  mttch  to  be  regretted  that  the  able  antiquaries  of  past  dajrs 
were  not  in  possession  of  such  a  clue  to  conjecture.  Tis  not 
for  us  to  Tenture  further  into  a  subject  so  capable  of  extension ; 
but  we  may  he  allowed  to  express  a  hope  that  some  local  an- 
tiquary will  be  induced  to  investigate  \t,  as  far  as  probability 
will  authorise  his  research. 

From  the  period  of  the  union  of  the  Saxon  heptarchy.  Not* 
tingham  seems  to  hare  increased  in  conseqaence.  In  Edward 
the  Confessor's  reign,  immediately  preceding  the  Norman  con- 
quest, there  were  one  hundred  and  serenty  three  burgesses, 
and  nineteen  rilleins,  in  this  borough ;  and  Earl  Tosti  had  lands 
and  houses  here. 

•  But,  perhapSf  the  proper  era  from  whence  we  should  com- 
mence our  view  of  the  rise  and  pi^gress  of  this  place,  is  that 
period  when  the  Jcingdom  was  settled,  after  the  Norman  acces- 
sion, and  the  surrey  of  Domesday-book,  was  made.  Prom 
this  register  it  appears  that  Hugh,  the  sheriff,  (bund  here  one 
hundred  and  twenty  dwelling  houses,  of  which  the  sheriff  him- 
self possessed  thirteen  ;  Roger  de  Builly  had  eleven  ;  William 
Pevereli  the  earl,  son  of  Ralph  Peverell,  who  came  in  with 
the  Norman,  had  ibrty-eight  tradesmen's  houses,*  which 
brought  htm  in  thirty  shillings  per  atmum  ren^  *  seven 
knights',  and  thirteen  gentlemen's  houses,  be^des  eight  borders, 
forming,  in*  the  wholes  his  honour  of  Peverell,  in  the  town ; 
Ralph  de  Burun  had  twelve  gentlemen's  houses,  and  one  mer- 
chant's house ;  one  Guilbert,  had  four  houses;  Ralph  Fitch'er- 
bert,  eleven  houses ;  Goisfrid  de  Anselyn,  twenty  one  houses ; 

'    Acadus 

*  It  is  curious  to  coDtrait  thif  turn  wiih  the  value  oi  Uad  iu  Nottingham^ 
4t  the  present  day.  In  1811,  the  ground  for  some  new  baildiogs,  in  a  street, 
at  the  end  of  Smithy  Kow,  Was  sold  at  the  rate  of  9L  per  square  yard ;  so 
that  three  square  yards,  without  buildings,  in  the  year  1811,  would  yield  as 
mach  in  intertst  of  money,  m  forty-eight  houses  did«  in  rent,  in  the  yeat 
1086! 


VOmVOBAMSHIES.  M 

Acadas  the  Priest,  two  hoiues ;  to  the  crofl  of  the  Priest  th*rt 
were  sixty  houses  ;  Richard  Tresle«  had  four  lioiises ;  and  io 
Ibe  borough  ditch,  seTenteen  houses  and  other  six  houses'; 'all 
«nM>iintiDg  to  two  hundred  and  seventeen* 

The  compiler  of  '*  Magna  Britannia/'  published  about  a  etW' 
tury  ago,  is  of  opinioq,  that  the  reason  why  we  find  no  more 
iohabitants^  in  this  borough,  it  because  many  of  the  hooM 
were  deserted,  in  consequence  of  the  ravages,  that  took  place, 
in  the  Norman  conquest;  and  the  number  was  certainly  dimi* 
nished,  since  the  Confessor's  reign,  for  then  there  were,  as  we 
have  before  noticed,  one  hundred  and  ninety-two  burgesses^ 
and  yilleins,  though,  when  the  first  Norman  surrey  was  taken^ 
there  were  only  one  huodred  and  thirty-six  men  dwelling 
there,  which  number,  at  the  Domesday  survey,  was  reduced  to 
one  bundredaod  twenty.  About  this  time,  however,  great  en* 
concagement  seems  to  have  been  given  to  resident  burgesie% 
(and  we  may«  perhaps,  from  hence  date  the  origin  of  the  mb^ 
dem  burgess  lands,)  for  the  burgesses  had  six  carucats  to 
plow,  and  twenty  borders,  and  fourteen  carucats,  *  or  plough 
lands  besides.  They  were  also  woot  to  fish  in  the  Tnem,  but 
complained  ihat  they  were  then  prohibited. 

At  this  period,  also,  the  church,  with  all  things  belonging  to 
it»  was  of  100  shillings  annual  value. 

Having  thus  investigated  its  origin,  we  shall  now  proceed  to 
take  a  short  view  of  its  general 

UirroRY,  premising  first,  from  Dering,  that  Nottingham  can 
claim,  as  a  town  of  note,  the  ageof  900  years ;  as  a  considera- 
ble borough,  761  ;  as  a  mayor's  town,  518,  being  only  a  cen- 
tury posterior  to  the  metropolis ;  as  a  parliamentary  borough; 
during  which  it  has  constantly  sent  two  representatives,  5SI  e 

*  This  iDiut  have  been  a  contiderable  quantity,  for  the  carucat,  or  hide,  waa 
lis'icore  acres  of  arable  land,  together  with  pasture,  and  meadow,  with' 
barDt,iUbIes,  and  dwellings  for  nich  a  naraber  of  men,  and  beattt,  at  wer« 
peeeMary  for  agricoJtoral  purposes. 


S6 


KOTTlMOHAMSfllRE. 


and  as  a  county  in  itself,  a  thing  y^ry  unusual  for  boroughg,  a 
space  of  353  years,  up  to  the  year  1812, 

The  first  great  historical  event,  we  find  connected  with  the 
place,  was  m  the  year  852,  when  the  Danes,  in  the  course  of 
their  frequent  ravages,  came  to  this  place.  In  which  they  were 
immediaitely  afterwards  besieged  by  Buthred,  the  Mercian 
king  5  but,  with  so  little  prospect  of  success,  as  the  Danefi  had 
possessed  themselves  of  a  strong  tower  on  the  scite  of  the  pre- 
tent  castle,  that  he  was  obliged  to  send  for  assistance  to  Ethel- 
ted,  king  of  the  West  Saxons,  and  Alured  his  brother,  who,  hav* 
ing  collected  a  large  army,  proceeded  towards  Nottingham,  and 
oOered  the  invaders  battle.  This,  however,  they  thought  pro- 
per to  decline,  when  the  Saxon  chiefs  attempted  to  batter 
down  the  walls,  but  even  this,  they  were  unable  to  perform;  and 
at  length  the  Danes,  starved  out  perhaps,  agreed  to  conclude  a 
peace,  and  return  home  under  their  leaders  Hcngar  and  Hubba, 
From  this  time,  until  940,  the  Danes  were  very  troublesome 
to  Nottingham,  and  the  surrounding  parts  of  Mercia;  for,  hav- 
ing landed  with  a  large  army,  and  got  military  possession  of 
mil  the  northern  parts  of  Britain,  they  lefla  large  force  there, 
and  proceeded  to  Nottingham,  which  they  took  with  facility, 
and  fixed  their  winter  quarters  there.  From  this  they  were 
again  driven  by  the  Saxons  j  but  again  returned,  and  remained 
until  the  middle  of  the  tenth  century,  when  king  Edmund 
made  a  final  reconquest  of  the  place* 

William  the  Conqueror  came  here  in  1068,  and  soon  after 
founded  the  castle. 

In  the  troublesome  limes  of  Stephen's  reign,  Ralph  Paynell, 
who  was  governor  of  the  castle,  and  in  ihe  interest  of  Henry 
afterwards  H«nry  the  second,  invited  the  earl  of  Gloucester 
in  1140,  to  take  possession  of  the  town.  It  is  recorded  that 
the  town  being  thus  easily  taken,  was  plundered,  and  the  in- 
habiLants  killedj  or  burnt  in  the  churches^  to  which  they  had 
fled  for  safety*     It  ia  also  stated  by  StoW*^  that  one  of  the  rich- 


est 


Stow'i  Sumcoarj,  p.  135* 


NOTTIKGHAMSHIRl. 


€it  of  ihe  inhabitants  was  forced  by  a  party  of  the  robbers  to 
shew  them  where  his  treasure  lay;  he,  accordingly,  took  them 
iata  a  low  cellar,  from  whence  he  escaped;^  whilst  tht:y  were 
intent  on  plunder;  and,  having  shut  the  doors,  set  fire  to  his 
house,  in  consequence  of  which,  not  only  they  were  burnt,  but 
the  whole  town  was  set  in  flames,  r^utttngham  met  with  the 
same  misfortunes  only  thirteen  years  aClerwards;  £br  being  ta- 
ken by  Henry,  in  1153,  we  are  told,  by  Leland,  that  the  garri- 
son retiring  from  the  city  to  the  castle  set  fire  to  the  town  on 
their  evacuating  it.* 

It  has,  however,  been  otherwise  asserted^  that  this  conOa* 
gration  was  caused  by  the  Earl  of  Ferrers,  In  the  contests  be» 
iween  Henry  the  second  and  his  son  Henry,  who  came  sud* 
denly»  with  a  good  number  of  horsemen  to  Nottingham,  which 
Reginald  de  Lucy  had  then  in  keeping  for  the  king ;  and,  hav* 
ifig  taken  it,  burnt  the  town,  slew  the  inhabitants^  and  divided 
their  goods  amongst  his  soldiers* 

After  this,  from  whatever  cause  it  may  have  proceeded,  the 
town  of  Nottingham  appears  to  hare  lain  in  ruins^  until  the 
kingdom  became  quiet  by  the  death  of  Prince  Henry,  whom 
his  father  had  been  so  imprudent  as  to  cause  to  be  crown* 
ed  duiing  his  own  life  time  :  the  inhabitants  then,  having 
some  prospect  of  protection  for  their  lives  and  property,  began 
to  make  great  exertions  to  restore  it  to  its  former  consequence^ 
and  the  king,  in  order  to  make  them  amends  for  what  they  had 
su^ered  from  their  loyalty,  not  only  gave  them  evtfry  eucou* 
ragement,  and  assistance,  in  the  rebuilding  of  it,  but  also  grant- 
ed ih cm  a  writ?  charter,  in  whith  ht?  confirmed  all  those  free 
customs  which  they  had  enjoyed  in  the  reign  of  Henry  the 
first*  This  is  a  convincing  proof,  that  Nottingham  had  been  a 
corporation^  for  a  considerable  time,  before  the  grant  of  this 
new  charter;  and  it  is,  with  great  probability,  supposed,  that 
they  had  enjoyed  a  market,  and  paid  a  farm  rent  to  the  crown, 
•om^  time  previous.     John  earl  of  Morteyii,  Henry's  younger 

F  4  soo^ 
•  Lcland  Collect,  vol.  3.  p*  3lf. 


18 


HOTTIKGHAMSIIIRS. 


I 


•on,  afterwards  king*  procured  them  some  further  pmHegei 
being  matle  earl  of  Nottingham  ;  and  by  a  new  charter,  which 
conBrnied  on  coming  to  the  throne >  granted  all  the  advan- 
ge»,  which  his  father  ami  great  grandfather  bad  bestowed 
ion  tliero,  together  with  a  merchant's  guild,  or  fraternity. 
During  the  contests  between  Richard  the  first  and  his  hfo* 
er  John,  Nottingham  changed  hands  several  times ;  and,  on 
the  king's  return  from  his  captivity*  this  castle  held  out  a 
siege  of  several  days,  tboygh  the  king  himself  besieged  it 
person. 

Soon  after,  Richard  called  a  parliament  here,  in  which  lie  j 
demanded  judgement  against  John  and   his  accomplices:  and 
the  |*ar  I  lament  immediately  issued   summonses  for  John,  and 
Ihe  baions*   his  friends,  to  appear  in  forty  days,  to  answer  all  j 
CompkintK,  under  pain  of  forfeiture  on  the  part  of  John,  and 
for   the  others,  lo   stand   such   censure,  as  might  be  awarded 
Against  them,  by  the  parliament.     In  cotisequcnce  of  non-com - 
pliance,  earl  John  incurred  the  foi  feitore,  bot  was  soon  restor* 
ed  by  his  brother  J  however,  after  coming  to  the  crown,  we  find 
ihaU  in  hia  contest  with  the  barons,  an  attempt  was  made  to  de- 
prive himof  this  place,  by  the  ♦'army  of  God,  and  the  Holjy 
Church,"  as  it  was  then  called,  but  without  sixccess. 

On  a  subsequent  occasion  in  1213,  John  was  so  pressed,  that, 
having  reci'ived  repeated  intelligence  of  a  plot  against  him, 
he  distrusted  even  the  officers  about  his  person,  and  relying 
solely  on  the  loyally  of  this  town,  and  of  some  foreign  archers^ 
disbanded  his  army,  and  retired  here  to  &hut  himself  up  in  the 
castle. 

InI33D,  the  well  known  event  of  the  seizure  of  Monimer, 
earl  of  March,  by  the  young  king  Edward  the  third,  took 
place  in  I  he  castle  ;  but  that  will  be  treated  of  more  fully  in 

another  place. 

Seven  years  afterwards  a  parliament  was  called  together  for 
Tery  imporUnt  purposes,  and  Nottingham  has  the  honour  of 
^cing  the  spot,  from  whence  emanated  laws  that  were  the  first 

foundation 


KOTTINGllAMSIflRE. 


foonijaljon  of  England^s  greatness^  as  a  manufacturiiig  comitiy  i 
for  here  it  was  enacteil,  that  whatsoever  cloth- workers  of  Flan* 
ders«  or  of  other  countries,  would  dwell,  aiKl  inhabit  in  £ii« 
gland,  should  come  quietly^  and  peaceably,  and  the  mo«t  €oii-» 
venient  places  should  be  assigned  to  thcnii  with  great  liberties 
and  privilege*],  and  the  king  would  becotne  surety  for  them, 
until  they  should  be  able  to  support  themselves  by  their  SO'^ 
ireral  occupations.  The  same  parliament  also  passed  that  pa- 
triotic laW|  that  no  per&on  should  wear  any  foreign  made  cloths^ 
with  the  exception  of  the  royal  family:  they  also  prohibited 
the  exportatioD  of  English  wool. 

A  curious  attempt  to  infringe  on  the  liberty  of  election  took 
place  here,  m  the  reign  of  Richard  tlie  second,  which  is  well 
worthy  of  notice.  In  1386«  the  marquis  of  Dublin,  the  royal 
favourite,  having  been  dismissed  in  consequence  of  the  remon- 
^trances  of  Parliament,  he,  and  some  of  his  adherents,  soon  alter 
procured  access  to  the  king,  and  was,  in  a  few  weeks,  accom- 
panied by  the  misguided  monarch  into  Wales;  where  it  was 
privately  settled,  that  a  plan  for  the  assumption  of  arbitrary 
power  should  be  put  lu  force,  and  that  the  patriotic  barons, 
the  duke  of  Gloucester,  the  earls  of  Arundel,  Dt^rby,  War- 
wick, and  Nottingham,  should  be  the  Brst  victims,  not  only  for 
the  purpose  of  revenge,  but  of  security.  In  order  to  insure 
the  success  of  their  plan,  it  was  determined  that  the  King  should 
raise  an  army  to  keep  those  barorui  m  check,  and  that  he 
should  then  call  a  parliament^  the  elections  for  which  should 
be  so  managed  as  to  have  none  but  the  Ifriends  of  the  favourites 
summoned  or  elected,  so  that  there  would  be  no  difficulty  in 
passing  any  law  which  might  he  proposed.  No  sooner  was 
everything  prepared,  than  Richard,  with  his /a  vou  rites  and 
their  friends,  proceeded  to  Nottingham,  where  all  the  sheriiFs, 
and  all  the  judges,  were  sent  for,  together  with  many  of  the 
principal  citizens  of  London ;  to  these^  when  assembled^  the 
monarch  communicated  his  design  of  proceeding  with  an  army 
(o  chastise  tbe  noblemen,  already  mentioned^  and  demanded  of 
4  019 


irOTTllTGHAIfSHllIX* 


1 


tbe  fiherifrs>  what  number  of  troops  they  could  raise  immedi- 
ately. He  then  told  them  to  permit  no  representatives  to  be 
chosen  for  the  new  parliament,  that  were  not  in  the  list,  which 
be  should  deliver  to  them  himself;  but  the  sherifTs  immediate- 
ly answered,  that  it  was  not  possible'to  execute  his  orders;  for 
the  people  were  in  general  so  partial  to  those  noblemen,  t^t  it 
would  be  difficult  to  levy  an  army  against  them ;  and  they  corw 
eluded  by  stating,  that  it  would  be  still  more  difficult  to  depri 
the  people  of  their  right  of  freely  electing  tbcir  repre^entativi 
in  parliament. 

The  judges,  however,  were  neither  soscrapnloiis,  nor  so  pa- 
triotic, as  the  sheriffs ;  for  ihey  answered  to  the  queries  put  t9 
them, ''  that  the  King  was  above  the  law ;"  yet,  when  required 
to  sign  this  opinion,  they  endeavoured  to  evade  it,  until  forced 
by  the  menaces  of  the  court  party,*  Notwithstanding  this 
forced  submission  of  the  judges,  Richard  found  it  imposaible  to 
do  any  thing  at  Nottingham,  and  therefore  returned  to  London. 

Nottingham  was  at>erward5,  in  I4G1,  the  rendezvous  of  Ed- 
ward the  fourth,  where  he  collected  his  troops,  and  caused  him- 
self to  be  proclaimed  King,  immediately  at\er  landing  at  Ha- 
ve nspur  in  Yorkshire, 

In  14H5,  Richard  the  third  marched  from  Notltngham  to- 
wards Bosworth- field,  in  order  to  decide  the  fate  of  England  in 
his  fatal  contest  with  Henry  the  seventh ;  and  Henry  the  ne- 
f  enthj  two  years  afterwards,  (in  1487)  held  his  council  of  war 
at  Nottingham  previous  to  the  battle  of  Stoke,  which  we  shall 
have  occasion  to  notice  more  fully  in  another  place* 

We  must  not  neglect  to  nolice  an  extraordinary  tempest, 
which  took  place  here,  in  the  reign  of  Queen  Mary,  and  which 
is  thus  stated  by  Stow,  in  his  Chronicle*      He  sayi*,  that  on  th« 

7iKof 


•  *Tls  alm<ist  unnecessary  to  state  to  tTioie  acqeainted  with  Englbb  lu«torj, 
tliit  ibete  judges^vere  sir  Robert  Tresilinn*  lord  chief  justice  of  the  Ling'i 
bench,  who  vras  tfterwards  bsngt'd  at  Tyburn  :  Sir  Robert  Belknap,  chief 
justice  of  Ihc  cominon  pleas ;  Sir  Joho  Holt  i  Sir  Roger  FuJlliorp  {  Sir  \VU' 
1^  de  Burgb  ;  ind  John  Locktoa^  Sergeant  ae  liiv. 


NOTTINOIIAMSIIIRC* 


TtH  of  July,  1559,  "  was  witbin  a  mile  of  Nottinghao),  a  mar- 
vellous tempest  of  thunder,  which,  as  it  came  tbrough  two 
towns,  (Lenton  ami  Wilfonl,)  beat  down  all  the  houses  and 
churches,  the  bells  were  cast  to  the  outside  of  the  chwrch-yard^ 
and  some  webs  of  lead  400  feet,  into  the  field,  writhe n  like  a 
pair  of  gloves.  The  river  Trent  running  between  the  two 
towns,  the  water  with  the  mud  in  the  bottom,  was  carried  a 
tjuarter  of  a  mile^  and  c&st  against  the  trees;  the  trees  were 
polled  up  by  the  roots,  and  cast  twelve-score  foot  oft.  There 
fell  some  hailstones  that  were  15  inches  about/* 

In  1649,  Charles  the  first  «et  up  his  standard  here,  which 
will  be  noticed  more  fully  in  another  place*  It  is  unnecessary 
to  recapitulate  all  the  occurrences  connected  with  this  event,  as 
^bey  may  be  seen  at  large  both  in  Bering  and  Thoroton.  It  is 
sufficient  to  say,  that  the  town  being  soon  after  in  possession  of 
the  Parliament,  the  government  was  entrusted  to  Colonel  Julius 
Hutchinson,  whose  memoirs  hav^  lately  been  published,  and 
who,  however  he  might  have  erred  in  his  politics,  has  yet  the 
merit  of  being  true  to  the  side  he  had  choaen.  In  1643,  he 
seems  to  have  been  strongly  tempted  to  deliver  it  up  to  the 
King's  fnends,  by  the  earl  of  Newcastle,  who  offered  him 
the  sum  of  10,000/,  and  promised  also  a  grant  of  the  castle  and 
its  government,  to  him  and  bis  heirs,  which  he  refused,  accord- 
ing  to  his  own  account  transmitted  to  the  Parliament.  During 
the  next  year,  1644,  there  seems  to  have  been  a  paltry  kind 
of  skirmishing  carried  on  between  the  royal  garrison  of  New- 
ark, and  that  of  Nottingham*;  for  we  are  told  by  Whitlock, 
who  is  copied  by  Dering,  that  colonel  Hutchinson  met  with  a 
party  of  the  people  from  Newark,  when  he  slew  iheir  captain^ 
ftnd  took  50  prisoners ;  and  that  be  and  his  party«  on  the  next 
day,  took  more  of  them  consisting  of  twenty  gentlemen,  and 
officers,  together  with  sixty  of  their  horse.  Shortly  after  a 
detachment  of  the  Newark  garrison^  having  come  rather  too 
near  to  Nottingham,  to  levy  contributions^  and  to  take  some 
prisoners^  they  were  pursued^  by  a  party  of  the  Nottingham 


DOTTING  BAMSUIRE. 


ironpsi  ^nd  escaped,  with  the  loss  of  all  their  prUoners^  mod 
five  or  six  of  iheir  own  party;  but  the  Nottiogliam  menj  fol- 
lowing too  close,  were,  in  their  turn^  assailed  by  fresh  troops, 
iheir  prisoners  taken  from  tbero^  and  also  two  officers,  and 
about  thirty  horsemen. 

Some  differences  seem  to  ha?c  taken  place,  between  the  gar- 
rison and  the  town  cotninittce  in  1645,  so  that  the  Parliament 
were  obliged  to  refer  ihem  to  a  committee  of  both  houses;  a 
measure  evidently  necessary,  as,  during  these  intestine  broils 
in  the  town,  a  party  of  horse,  from  Newark,  had  stormed  a  fort 
upon  Trent  bridge,  and  became  masters  of  it«  after  putting 
about  forty  men  to  the  sword. 

But  it  is  unnecessary  tu  recapitulate  all  the  eFents  of  that 
time,  we  shall,  therefore,  just  notice  that  after  the  restoration, 
in  16S2^  a  surreptitious  surrender  of  the  charter  was  procured 
by  the  ministers  of  Charles  the  second,  which  occasioned  great 
disturbances.  A  new  charter  was  granted^  but  even  this  was 
taken  away  in  IG87,  by  king  James  the  second,  by  a  writ  of 
quo  warranio. 

A  rery  copious  account  of  the  subsequent  events  will  be 
found  in  Bering^  but  it  is  not  irrelevant  to  add,  that  it  was  at 
Nottingham  the  meeting  took  place  between  the  earl  of  De- 
vonshire, and  several  other  noblemen,  in  order  to  promote  the 
glorious  revolution  of  1688,  when  a  slop  was  put  to  the  insi- 
dious attempt  to  introduce  popery  into  the  kingdom^  and  thai 
too  by  the  assistance  of  the  Dissenters ;  for  such  certainly  wa^ 
James's  ptan^  notwilbstanding  all  that  has  been  asserted  to  the 
contrary,  by  some  modern  whigs.*  The  internal  quiet  of  the 
kingdom,  from  this  period,  until  the  present  day,  (with  one  or 
two  slight  exceptionsj]  leaves  us  little  more  to  record  of  past 
events,  respecting  Nottingham  :    we   shall,  tharefore,  merely 

briefly 

*  In  this  we  beg  1c«ve  to  be  oodentood,  m$  r«eording  nn  UiitrmrAl  factV 
withoQt  reference  to  potitica)  or  to  parly  opiniooij  twa  ttiiogs  whiob  ougbt 
Acrtftialj  to  be  mToktcd  m  »  wori.of  Uiia  kiad. 


briefly  notice  some  late  occurrences,  which  fall  with  mo«t  pro* 
priety  under  this  general  head. 

Throsby  tells  us,  that  in  the  year  1777,  as  some  workmen 
were  clearing  away  the  rubbish  at  a  place  called  Derry  Mounts 
Ihey  discovered  sereral  human  bones,  which  appeared  in  a  per- 
fect state*  III  a  scull,  there  was  the  appeai^nce  of  a  bullet- 
hole;  a  dagger  likewise  was  fouml  with  the  skeletons,  which 
p  were  five  in  mimber,  and  a  piece  of  silver  coin,  the  legend  not 
legible.  But  from  a  tradesman's  token,  of  the  date  of  1GC9,  it 
was  supposed,  that  those  people  might  have  fallen  in  some  skir- 
mish during  the  civil  wars,  or  at  least  during  the  Protectorate, 

A  most  extraordinary  natural  phenomenon  took  place  here 
in  \7&5,  which  has  been  considered  as  perhaps  one  of  the  larg* 
est  water-spotits»  ever  seen  in  this  country.  It  happened  on 
the  first  of  November.  In  the  morning  the  sky  was  clear ;  but 
the  preceding  day  had  been  overcast,  and  some  claps  of  thun- 
der heard  in  the  evening,  though  at  a  considerable  distance* 
About  eleven  in  the  morning  it  became  overcast  like  the  former 
day»  and  rained  heavily  at  interval^?,  until  the  afternoon,  the 
wind  being  first  at  south-west,  and  then  falling  calm.  At  four 
in  the  afternoon,  the  water-spout  was  first  FCen,  proceeding 
from  a  dense  cloud,  apparently  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  to 
the  southward  of  the  Trent,  and  moving  slowly  towards  it;  and 
It  was  remarked,  that  the  branches  of  the  trees,  over  which  ll 
passed,  were  bent  downwards  to  the  ground. 

As  the  cloud  came  nearer  to  the  river,  it  appeared  to  be 
strongly  attracted  by  it,  and  when  it  crossed  did  not  seem  more 
than  30  or  40  feet  from  the  surfisce  of  the  water,  which  was 
violently  agitated,  and  tlew  upwards  to  a  great  height  in  every 
direction.  Some  persons  who  saw  it  from  the  Trent  bridge, 
then  only  about  300  yards  distant,  mistook  it  at  first  for  a 
column  of  thick  smoke  rising  from  a  warehouse  by  the  Trent 
lide,  which  they  supposed  to  be  on  tire;  but  they  were  soon 
undeceived,  and  now  beheld  with  astonishment  a  large  black 
inverted   cune,  terminating  nearly  in  a    point,  and  in  which 

they 


^i^  ym^wmirmrf  phiBly*  at  they  fkfterwardi  said,  a  whiti* 
mg  spiral  motion,  whilst  a  nunbliog'  noise  like  thunder  waa 
kB8i4^^di<rtaDce,  By  the  description  which  those  people 
l^ive  ef  it,  (att4  indeed  they  may  be  supposed  to  hare  exanua* 
ed  it  oooUy»  whilst  they  ^opposed  it  to  be  only  ^  colttmn  of 
psaktf)  the  middle  of  the  con^  appeared  nearly  twenty -fisel 
la4ttineter.  After  passing  the  rifer,  it  ascended  slowly  asid 
mfyesMcally  IB  a  N*E»  direction;  and  nothing  coming  within 
Aelipits  qt  its.electric  pfAwen^  niitil  it  cafne  orer  Soenton,  ii 
dNure  9l]it  began  its  devastation,  taking  the  th^b  from  sereral 
barps  and  collages,  and  toMring  up  soine  apple  treea  by  the 
TCM^  on^.  of  which  was  (iw  fieet  in  circwnference,.  yet  waa 
br^lBep  short  off  near  the  groonn^  and.  the  body  and  braachea 
ciip^ad  seTonal  yards.  A  barn- near  30  yards  long  waa  lefelled 
iril^.^ie  grenodf  ^  a4joiniipg  boose  was  onmoM*  fod  other- 
wjienmch  shatterejd ;  a  sycamore  in  tfae^yard^^  which  nwasnred 
BCfprlj.  Iw^o  yards  in  cirdunferai^e,  waf,tom  np;  in  ahor^  bi>» 
Ih^  coald  resist  the  hppetiiosity  of  ita  action ;  and  the  rain 
hSf^f  heaTily  at  the  ^e,  jo^md  to  the  roaring  noise  of  the 
sp9«v  uid  t^^  by  the  mmtbjf  of  the  phenomenon,  prodnced 
amepgpt  the  spectators  a  scene  of  terror  and  confotion  which» 
they  acknowledged,  was  not  eaay  to  be  described. 

It  viras  suted  also,  that  in  a  tavern  in  the  outskirts  of  the  vil^ 
lage^  it  tore  off  part  of  the  ro^  whilst  the  people  within  were'' 
almost  all  of  tbem  seized  with  a  painful  sensadbii  in  the  head, 
which  la*ited  some  hours :  and  the  spout  in  passing  orer  the  ad- 
joinmg  close  where  a  number  of  people  were  collected,  it 
being  the  usual  statute  for  hiring  servants,  affi>vded  rather  alo- 
dicrous  scene  wherein  hucksters,  stalliv  baskets,  &c.  were  all 
thrown  into  confusion,  and  some  of  the  people  hurled  with 
great  violence  against  the  hedge,  but  happily  without  any  se» 
riousMcident  One  boy  indeed,  about  14  yeaiaof  age,issaid 
to  have  been  actually  carried  over  the  hedge  inlo^  an  adjoining 
field,  but  without  being  iiyured. 
Some  flashes  of  light  were  observed  in  its  passing  the  fields; 

8  and 


w^TTi  NO  B  A  ws  Hmm* 


I 


ati(!  a«  the  dou^  pa.<;$ed  orer  the  hill^  oppostte  to  the  tavern, 
the  fpout  was  observed  to  contract  and  expand  alternately,  as 
if  it  had  been  attracted,  and  repelled,  by  some  extraneous  force. 

I  It  continued  in  ail  about  twenty  minutes.*  We  have  beijn 
more  particular  in  noticing  this  phenomenon^  because  it  seems 
described  with  more  accuracy  than  any  iimtlar  one  which  has 
happened  in  the  kingdom. 

It  is  always  unpleasant,  to  record  the  rbullitionfi^  and  nut- 
rag<es,  of  parly*  whatever  may  have  been  their  original  pritici* 
pies  ;  yet  we  cannot  wholly  pa**  over  the   events,   in  the  year 

11794  J  but  shall  avoid  all  chance  of  misapprehension,  by  a  quo- 
tation from  Mr.  Throsby,  who  seems  the  most  moderate  of  the 
local  historians  that  have  noticed  these  unhappy  disturbances, 
and  to  have  confined  himself  to  historical  fact,  without  animad* 
rersion.  He  commences  with  the  pleasing  observation,  that 
this  year  was  marked  by  the  loyalty  of  the  inhabitants  of  tha 
town  aitd  county,  in  support  of  the  constitution,  and  defence  of 
the  empire^  in  the  raising  of  four  troops  of  gentlemen  yeo- 
matu'y  and  cavalry,  the  ranks  of  which  were  filled  up  with  the 
most  respectable  of  the  inhabitants  in  general,  and  the  whole 

I  under  the  command  of  A.  H*  Eyre,  Esq.  of  Grove :  the  Not- 
tingham company  having  Ichabod  Wright,  Esq*  for  their  cap- 
tain. On  this  occasion  he  remarks,  that  none  shewed  more 
loyalty  I  in  the  way  of  subscription,  than  a  club  in  Nottingham, 
called  the  loyal  society. 

Unfortunately,  however,  in  July  of  the  same  year,  a  serioiu 
disturbance  took  place,  in  consequence  of  some  people,  "  evil 
afiected,''  as  it  has  been  said,  shewing  sigits  of  pleasure  on  the 
arrival  of  some  unpleasant  news  from  the  continent,  and  wear- 
ing in  their  hats,  emblems,  &c,  A  party  of  royalists  in  con* 
sequence  (or,  as  another  local  historian  describes  them»  a  num- 
■  l»erof  violent  politicians  under /»rr^4-yice  of  loyalty 0  ducked  se- 
veral disalFected  people  in  the  river;  but  not  stopping  there, 
tht  mob  at  night  set  fire  to  some  outworks  of  Mr.  Dennison^s 

cotton 

«  Vidt  Gent'i  Mag>  for  1765. 


SS  SrOTTIlfOHAMSHIBB. 

cotton-mill^  in  wbick  some  oF  tfaoto  considered  as  JaooMu  bed 
taken  shelter,  and  from  whence  it  has  been  asserted  that  some 
•hot  were  fired*  The  vigUance  of  the  magistrates  and  their 
friend^,  however,  assisted  by  the  light  horse  from  the  bar- 
racks,  prevented  farther  mivhief  than  the  baming  of  some 
premises,  not  of  any  extraordinary  value :  but  the  next  day 
still  continued  as  a  day  of  ducking  and  disorder,  until  the 
popular  ebullition  subsided* 

Mr.  Throsby,  also  records  a  great  flood,  which  took  place 
here,  on  the  7th  of  February  1795,  after  a  severe  week's  frosW 
and  in  which,  by  an  accurate  estimate,  upwards  of  one  million 
of  damage  was  done  by  the  Trent  alone«  Many  fiimilies,  both 
in  the  town,  and  mdeed  in  all  the  villages  bordering  on  that 
fiver,  were  great  sufihrers,  from  the  loss  of  cattle  drowned,  and 
from  the  damage  done  to  their  goods.  The  new  gravel  road  to 
the  Trent  bridge,  which  had  been  heightened  and  improved  at 
different  times  at  a  very  considerable  expense,  and  the  beau- 
tiful canal  cut,  which  forms  a  collateral  branch  with  the  river 
Lene,  received  such  imo^nse  fracture^  as  to  require  an  im- 
mense expense  for  their  repair ;  and  the  new  Lene  bridge,  with 
its  accompanying  arches  formed  to  draw  the  water  off  the 
road,  was  also  materially  injured. 

From  that  period,  nothing  remarkable  has  happened  at  Not- 
tingham until  the  unfortunate  disturbances  amongst  the  stock- 
ing manufacturers  in  the  early  part  of  181:2,  and  a  short  time 
preceding ;  but  the  occurrences  are  too  recent  to  require  de- 
scription, and  it  is  to  be  hoped,  that  the  parliamentary  regula- 
tions which  are  taking  place,  whilst  these  sheets  are  in  the 
press,  will  prevent  the  necessity  of  any  further  notice*  We 
•hall  now  proceed  to  the  consideration  of  the 

Local  Topography,  oF  Nottingham,  which  the  author  of  the 
tour  through  Great  Britain  very  justly  states  to  be,  one  of  the 
most  pleasant  and  beautiful  towns  in  England,  from  its  situation, 
even  if  its  various  buildings  were  not  to  be  taken  into  the 
account.    We  have  already  noticed  the  various  circumstances, 

connected 


V0TTIV6B4JltBpM«  9? 

connected  with  iu  approach  from  diflferent  quarterip  and  thall 
now  slightly  notice  its 

Situation  and  Extent,  the  former  of  which  k  pdrhape  aft 
fiiTOurable  as  can  well  be  imagined*  With  respect  to  its  retaU 
tire  situation  to  the  kingdom  in  general.  Dr.  Bering  Tory  jtistl  j 
observes  that  it  lies  almost  in  the  middle,  equidistant  fipom  Betf^ 
wick  upon  Tweed  northward,  and  Southampton  southfhtr4»  at 
the  same  time  that  there  is  very  little  difference  in  hs^dbtance 
from  Boston  and  Chester,  on  an  east  and  west  line. 

It  is  locally  fixed  in  the  south  west  comer  of  the  county,  anS 
of  the  venerable  Sherwood  forest,  and  drily  and  afarily  silualaA 
upon  a  soft  rock  coyered  with  A  sandy  soil«  On  three  sidesi  it 
is  sufficiently  protected  by  gentle  eminences  from  the  moal 
hurtful  blasts,  whilst  its  southern  aspect  gives  it  every  advtn* 
tage  of  the  enli? ening  rays  of  the  noon4ide  sun  at  all  seanae 
6i  the  year*  On  this  point  of  view,  it  overlooks  the  fertile 
and  extensive  vale  of  Belvoir,  the  Nottinghamshire  wold^ 
and  the  hills  of  Leicestershire ;  a  prospect  not  only  pleasing 
from  its  beauty,  but  also  from  the  consideration  of  the  great 
fertility  of  the  vicinity,  particularly  in  the  barley  crops,  and 
which  has  rendered  Nottingham  so  long  fomous  for  mah  and 
ale. 

The  rock  on  which  it  stands,  is  so  high  that  even  the  gronhd 
floors  of  many  houses  on  its  summit,  are  a  long  way  elevated 
above  the  rook's  of  other  habitatibns  situated  in  the  NarrowMarsh 
at  its  foot.  Indeed  the  stranger  is  struck  with  the  novelty  of 
the  prospect  when  in  one  part  he  contemplates  three  tiers  of 
streets,  each  overlooking  the  one  immediately  below  it,  and 
many  of  the  houses  iu  these  streets  with  apartments  cut  into 
the  rock,  below  the  cellars  of  the  superior  ones. 

From  several  breaks  in  the  High  and  Low  Pavements,  and  in 
the  Casile  Lane,  the  birds  eye  view  of  the  houses  and  gardens 
between  the  foot  of  the  rock  and  the  rivers  Lene  and  Trent,  is 
extremely  picturesque,  and  becomes  more  so  when  the  spec- 
tator views  the  more  distant  scenery  extending  from  the  romaAv 

Vo*.XII.  G  tic 


lie  and  pleasing  hllU  of  Sneinton  and  Colwick  in  the  mxith  casf 
round    by    Bridgeford  and    Gamston,     &c.    to   the   deep   eitr* 
bowered  village  of  VVilford,  overtopped  by  the  shady  groves  of 
Clifton. 

The  ancient  extent  of  tlie  town  was  from  Chapel  bar  aerosf 
the  Mansfield  road  towards  the  present  house  of  correction, 
from  whence  it  turned  short  to  the  southward,  through  Coa1*pit 
lane,  and  thence  to  the  HoUnw  stone,  then  forraing  the  southern 
entrance  into  the  town ;  thence  along  ilie  pavements  towards 
the  south  side  of  Castle  gate«  joining  the  castte  rock^  near  to 
the  present  brew  house  yard, 

in  later  times  (about  the  middle  of  the  last  century,)  Bering 
telb  us  that  the  town  of  Nottingham  was  about  two  statute  milet, 
and  the  County  of  the  town  spread  its  jurisdiction  upwards 
of  ten  miles,  in  circumference;  the  boundaries  of  which  they 
carefully  preserve  by  chusing  every  half  year  a  certain  nooi* 
ber  of  persons  of  the  town,  headed  by  one  of  the  coroners^ 
which  are  called  the  Middkion  Jury,  a  name  supposed  by  Be- 
ring to  be  contracted  from  "  middle  town  Jury,"  not  only  b«* 
cause  they  are  summoned  from  amongst  the  towns  people,  btit 
because  whilst  they  take  care  of  the  extreme  boundaries,  ibey 
likewise  walk  through  the  middle,  and  every  part  of  the  town# 
taking  notice  of,  and  preventing^  all  iucroachments  and  niiit- 
ances. 

The  nourishing  condition  of  DQanufactures  in  Nottingham 
have,  however,  during  a  course  of  many  years,  considerably 
extended  iLs  limits,  so  as  to  have  added  perhaps  one  half  to  iti 
superficial  contents  within  the  last  century  ;  whilst  the  progresi 
of  building,  not  only  in  the  very  heart  of  the  town,  but  alao 
in  its  outskirts,  promises  a  further  increase,  as  soon  as  the  com* 
mercc  of  the  world  shall  be  restored  to  its  ancient  fooling. 
The 

ANcrRNT  Wails,  and  Gates,  of  Nottingham  are  now  scarce* 
ly  to  be  traced,  although  in  Leiand's  time  some  part  of  them 
WIS  remaining;  he  says,  "the  town  hath  been  meetly  welte 

wallid 


XOTTINORAMSIllRS. 


99 


^Mid  with  stone,  and  hath  had  divers  gates,  much  of  the  wal- 
le   15  noiv  dowiie,  and  the  gates,  savinge  2  or  S." 

The  ancient  line  of  wall  we  have  alrtady  noticed  in  describ- 
ing the  extent  of  the  town  informer  times ;  to  thi^  we  have  lit« 
lie  more  to  add  than  that  the  original  wall  was  butlt  by  Kdward 
the  elder  for  the  better  security  and  d  trie  nee  of  the  place  about 
the  year  910,  and  that  WUliamthe  Conqueror  made  »ome  ad- 
dition to  them  on  building  the  c&%i\e  ;   for  after  that,  the  wall  of 
the  town  joined    the   outer   wail   of  ihe  castle,  and  thence  ran 
1  northward  to  Chapel   bar.      Of  this>  in  Bering's  time,  there 
were   manSfesit  ve.iiigeH  remaining  ;    and  Throsby   says,  that 
though  from  Chapel  bar  north,  and  round  to  the  east,  the  true 
ancient  wall  i^  not  to  be  traced  above  ground,  yet  even  withia 
a  few  years,  some  parts  of  it  have  been  found  in  digging;  and 
he  adds  that  of  the  wall  extending  westward  along  the  rock  by 
the  coal  yard  to  the  hollow  stone,  a  portion  was  lately  visible. 
Denng  says,  that  about  midway  between  the  castle  and  Cha- 
pel bar,  in  a  part  of  the  dituh  now  formed  into  a  reservoir,  som« 
ruins  were  to  be  seen  in  his  time  of  a  postern,  which  was  erected 
ill  consequence  of  a  precept  of  Henry  the  third,  in   which  he 
pOrders  *<  his  bailiffs  and  burgesses  of  Nottingham  without  delay 
lomake  a  postern  in  itie  wall  of  the  said  town,  near  thecastle^ 
towards  Lenton,  of  such  a  breadth  and  height  that  two  armed 
borsemt^n  carrying  two   lances  on  their  shoulders  might  go  \a 
jAiid  out ;  where  IViUiam,  Archbishop  qf  Yark,  had  appointed  it, 
^ho  made  the  King  understand  that  it  was  expedieiit  for  him 
;^nd  his  heirs,  and  for  the  castle  and  town*'-*— most  certainly 
iber  a  curious  subject  for  an  arckbUhop  to  advise  his  monarch 
;  it  is,  however,  a  pretty  specimen  of  «good  old  tiroes'* ! 
From  ihis  postern,  adds  Dering,  a  bridge  went  over  the  town 
itch,  which  though  long  since  hlled  up,  along  with  the  whole 
!4ine  of  fosse  on  this  side  of  the  town  may  be  traced,  whilst  the 
«citc  of  the  bridge  \^  even  now  called  Bmton  Bridge,  an  evi- 
ent  corruption  of  the  original  jianie.      Great  part  of  the  ditch 
If  if  ftill  occupied  as  kitchen  gardens,  and  there  i%  a  bury- 
G  2  iaf 


too 


HdttlKOilAMSHIKE* 


itg  gfoond  of  the  Baptists  at  one  end  of  it ;  whilst  the  lane  tKal j 
ntos  along  It  b  called  B^f//  Dyke,  having  formerly  been  uaed  as  ij 
ftireof  exerci^  for  the  toHU*s  people  In  archery. 

ANtft  the  middle  of  the  last  century,  Chapel  bar  wasp 
sad  fvai  Uieii  the  last  remaining  specimen  of  the  ancle 
Uttdtr  ii  kad  been  two  arched  rooms  one  of  which  waij 
Mr  a  milttary  chapel,  but  which  had  foi 
yota  bittt  occupied  as  a  brewhouse  by  an  alderman 
I  tubs  having  been  placed  even  on  t 
t  to  Ibeir  former  sanctity,  iiome  ^cetiou 
mm  a  kick  at  the  fallen  siupersUtions  t 
%%MKm4  ys  Fega84is  in  dramng  up  what  i 


**  INir  fFHia  rf  gH  IwfJ  wafen  into  Cod, 
Aid  ^vt  ft«t  lijaeit  brwd  Ibr  Be«h  aud  blood, 
■iC  WW  a  lifMd  «jfrt*t7\  here  let  up, 

r  piliil  tadkpMii  both^  p«rtal«  tlie  cop/* 


Tise  HoUom  Sume,  tliovgli  mneb  altered  of  late  years,  mt] 
now  atill  be  oonstdered  as  the  remains  of  an  ancient  entranced 
or  gate  to  ibe  Kwrik  About  seventy  years  ago  it  was  a  very 
narrow  pafttge*  having  been  secured  by  a  strong  portcullis^  of 
which  at  that  time  there  were  some  evident  traces  to  be  seen. 
Within  the  gale  on  the  \eh  hand,  there  was  a  cavity  cut  in  the 
fock  capable  of  holding  twenty  men  with  a  fire  place  and 
l>ettches,  evidently  designed  for  a  guard  house,  and  having  a 
ttairciise  cut  aUo  in  the  rock  for  the  relief  of  the  centineli^^d 
Dr,  Deriiig  considers  this  as  having  been  used  for  military  puP^fl 
poses  even  as  late  as  the  civil  wars,  perhaps  first  executed  at 
that  very  period.  This  pa>i5age»  however,  is  now  sufficiently 
wide  for  two  carriages  to  pass,  in  consequence  of  a  late  duke 
mt  Kingtton»  in  the  year  1740,  having  made  a  present  to  the 
corporation  of  a  house  which  belonged  to  him  standing  on  the 
fOtk  above  the  passage,  and  which  being  pulled  down  enabled 
the  workuien  to  proceed  in  cutting  away  the  rock  to  its  present 

wndth. 


SH6BAH8B1E] 

Jth,  During  ihxs  process  the  labourers  met  with  some  por- 
tions of  the  ancient  wall^  of  which  the  mortar  formed  lh<.^  hard- 
est part. 

There  h  perhaps  no  town  in  the  kingdom  that  has  a  more 
curious  variety  of  names  for  rxs  streets  than  Nottingham; 
all  tak«;n  from  the  yarious  circitmstances  of  relative  situations, 
or  their  peculiar  qualities.  Some  of  them,  and  these  arc  even 
now  the  most  frequented  for  trade,  take  their  appellations  from 
the  different  occupations  exercised  in  them  at  the  time  wht:ii 
Nottingham  had  a  considerable  portion  of  that  species  of  the  Iron 
manufacture  now  transferred  to  Birmingham,  such  as  Bridle- 
smith  Gale,  Girdlesmiih  Gale,  Fletcher  Gate,  &c. ;  others 
from  different  animab,  Cow  lane,  Sheep  lane,  &g.*  and  some 
Jew  lane.  Rotten  row,  Cuckstool  row,  &c.  sufficiently  descrip- 
tive of  their  various  properties* 

There  is  another  street  which  runs  along  the  north  side  of 
the  town,  at  the  back  of  that  range  of  buildings  that  forms  one 
side  of  the  market  place  and  Long  row ;  this  had  a  name 
which,  though  certainly  very  appropriate  to  its  situatioti^  is  said 
by  Throsby  to  have  been  disagreeable  to  the  ears  of  a  Mr. 
Rouse,  a  resident  in  it,  a  man  of  some  property,  but  generally 
consiclered  as  a  little  deranged  in  his  inlellerts.  The  proof 
which  Throsby  adduces  of  this,  is,  that  he  ottered  hiraselO  i^ot 
many  years  ago,  as  a  candidate  at  an  election  to  serve  in  Parlia- 
ment, and  this,  he  says,  was  done  in  one  of  his  mad  fits  !  In 
order  to  accomplish  his  design^  he  treated  his  companions,  who 
were  all  of  the  lower  order  of  the  electors,  with  ale,  purl,  and 
sometimes  with  rhubarb,  which  he  strongly  recommended  to 
all  as  an  excellent  thing  for  the  human  constitution  j  and  no 
doubt  would  have  proposed  measures  of  a  similar  tendency 
for  the  political  conslitution  had  his  ambition  been  gratified* 

Notwithstanding  his  fundness  for  this  medicine,  he  disliked 
the  name  of  the  street  in  which  he  resided,  and  conceiving  thai 
the  residence  of  a  man  who  wished  to  get  into  pavliameut 
should  bear  some  reference  to  ihe  object  of  his  aambition  he 

G  3  caused 


tot 


]rOTTlKGItAMgBlR£. 


caused  at  hU  own  expense  a  number  of  boards  to  be  stuck 
at  Ibe  most  conspicoous  corners  and  passages,  bywhicb  tbc 
who  could  read,  mere  informed  that  they  were  in  Parliament  ^ 
Scr«et*  He  and  his  ambition  are  now  in  the  silent  grave,  but 
h3M  eflbHs  %0  gel  some  how  or  other  into  a  parliamentary  way* 
mtttWt  beliere,  not  quite  obliterated^  and  the  learned  of  thi 
liei^b^vHiood  in  order  to  shew  their  readings  have  adopted  his 
wya,  littt  the  UUieraie  are  still  rude  enough  to  make  use  of 
in  noce  vnlgar  appellation. 

Tlie  Stb^cts*  in  general,  are  upon  a  narrow  scale,  if  we 
eepi  ihe  CaMle  gati;  aod  the  high  Pavement;  and  we  are  sor 
to  ay,  whilst  describing  the  beauties  of  Nottingham,  that  there 
k  loo  miach  tnith  in  Throsb>^s  observation,  which  we  shall 
^Mteb  btttleaipered  with  the  confession  that  we  have  perceived 
constderable  imp'rovement  in  this  respect  in  some  parts  of  the 
ifrwiu  whibt  IB  others  the  censure  must  be  allowed  to  remain 
in  full  ktrce.  We  have  heard  it  said  that  the  great  clash  of 
pwtirs  in  Hottinghaa]  operateSi  in  some  degree,  against  unani* 
MIy  to  ■wwircs  necessary  for  the  improvement  and  welfare 
«f  tile  town;  if  thts  is  the  case,  we  must  hope  that  a  more 
laberml  spirit  will  begin  to  shew  itself;  for,  that  there  is  much  of 
•  liberal  spirit,  in  the  leaders  at  least,  is  evident  from  the  ac* 
live  e^tertions  which  have  lately  been  made,  and  are  still  mak- 
ing here*  in  the  eitise  of  benevolence^  and  which  we  shall 
have  occasion  to  notice  more  fully  under  the  beads  of  the  In- 
firmary and  Lunatic  Asylum.  Mr<  Throsby's  observation  is  as 
fcUows :— ''but  when  it  is  said  that  the  scile  of  Nottingham  is 
delightful,  the  air  salubrious^  and  the  town  one  of  the  pleasant^ 
est  in  the  kingdom,  it  must  he  lamented  that  the  new  building 
are  erected,  many  of  ihein,  without  any  design  of  forming 
regular  streets.  Well  contrived  streets  or  passages'*  he  adds 
*'arc  highly  conducive  to  health  and  cleanliness;  but  here  la 
a  rtmrrtction  of  buildings,  generally  without  order,  seated 
like  clusters  of  mushrooms  in  a  field  cast  up  by  chance/'  Hi 
thtfn  eiclaims^  **  how  the  gathered  filth  within  doors  is  scattered  ' 

daily. 


KOTTI  NOH  AMSHtftB. 


103 


I 


I 


I 


I 


^i\y^  in  the  dirty  passages  wiihout,  in  the  front  of  the  dwell- 
iJigs! — and  many  of  these  streets  ami  lane.s,  if  so  they  may 
called,  are  without  any  sort  of  pavement,  consequently  wit[i- 
OQt  regulated  water  courses,  and  consequently  pregnant  with 
mischievous  trfftcis," 

Of  the  Caves  and  Cavekns  in  th^  town  we  have  already 
ilightly  spoken.  Letaml  says«  '^  southward  as  to  the  waterside 
be  great  clifes  and  rokkes  of  stones,  that  be  large  and  very  gtjod 
to  build  with,  and  many  houses  settle  on  the  toppes  of  thera ; 
and  at  the  botom  of  iliese  be  great  caves,  where  many  stones 
hath  been  diggid  oute  for  buildings  yn  the  town,  and  these 
caves  be  purtely  for  cellars  and  .storehouses."  Many  of  thc^ 
caves  and  cellars  are  but  of  modern  date;  others  no  doubt  are 
extremely  ancient^  peiiiaps  enlarged  in  diticrent  eras ;  and  it 
is  by  no  means  unlikely  that  a  strict  antiquarian  research  into 
the  subtei-raaean  part  of  Notti«ghaHi  might  be  attended  with 
some  very  interesting  discoveries. 

For  want  of  any  very  recent  information  on  this  subject,  we 
must  be  content  to  take  notice  of  some  circumstances  which  took 
place  during  the  last  century,  and  which  are  handed  to  its  on 
the  authority  of  Bering,  but  unfortunately  that  is  again  found* 
ed  merely  on  the  story  of  a  bricklayer,  who,  if  he  was  a  fel-- 
low  of  any  thing  like  what  is  called  ^rniuj  by  the  lower  clas* 
teSt  might  perhaps  have  been  amusing  himself  with  the  ere-* 
dulity  of  the  local  antiquary, 

Bering,  indeed,  speaking  generally  of  these  excavalions« 
*ay«,  that  in  several  parts  of  the  town  structures  of  a  very  con- 
siderable extent,  arched  in  a  regtdar  manner,  and  supported 
by  columns  with  carved  capitals,  have  been  discovered  at  dif* 
ferent  times,  together  wiih  apartments  for  lodging  places  with 
obscure  entran<:es,  whilst  digging  for  foundations  for  the  houses 
in  Long  Row,  and  on  the  south  side  of  the  market  place.  But 
there  may  be  something  apocryphal  in  the  story  of  a  brick« 
layer,  who  assured  liirn  that,  when  an  apprentice,  and  at  work 
near  the  Weekday  Cro^s,  be  got  into  one  of  those  subterraneous 

G  4  fabrics^ 


104  .:  ir0tTI|r99AVflHIM. 

Abrics,  mpported  by  tbofe  ornameDted  pillari  already  no- 
Iked^  and  through  which  he  made  hb  way  to  the  upper  end  of 
lUcher  gate^  ha?ipg  found  tb^re  a  wooden  eap  jand  a  wooden 
can»  which  aeemed  to  be  found  and  whole*  but»  on  being  taken 
hold  oC  mouldered  into  dust. 

Tb»  conclusion  drawn  from  this  by  Dering  is  too  erroneoos 
lo  escape  notice;  fe^r  be  says  'nhese  places  being  of  the  Ooikie 
order,  I  coi^^ecture  to  bare  been  contriYed  in  the  time  of  the 
Jieptarcby/'  which  was  in  iact  about  three  hundred  yean  b^cre 
Ibe  introduction  of  Qoikk  ^rckiucnarc  into  England !  There 
is^  howeveri  more  apparent  probability  in  the  sequeU  as  the 
causes  which  he  assigns  may  hare  not  only  brought  some  of 
the  ancient  excayations  into,  use,  bpt  rendered  the  making  of 
elhers  necessary  ;  .for  he  observes  that  tbe  Damt,  who  were 
then  Bagans,  made  frequent  inroads  into  the  kingdom  of  Mer- 
laa,  where  they  exercised  in  a  most  extraordinary  manner 
their  cruelties  upon  nuns  and  Iriars,  and  indeed  upon  Christian 
priests  of  all  kinds* .  To  them,  therefore,  these  cares  might 
have  been  a  refege  in  time  of  danger,  and  there  they  might 
possibly  have,  been  in  the  habit  of  performing  their  religious 
duties,  without  the  danger  of  being  exposed  to  the  fury  of 
those.persecuting  idolaters.    The 

Castle  is  the  first  object  of  particular  curiosity  to  a  stranger ; 
not  so  much  perhaps  for  its  own  beauty,  as  for  its  commanding 
aituation,  and  the  interesting  historical  passages  connected  with 
it.  Camden,  who  wrote  whilst  the  ancient  fortress  was  in  ex- 
istence, briefly  observes,  that  this  castle  rises  on  a  bold  rock  on 
the  west  side  of  the  town,  where  it  is  supposed  to  have  been 
anciently  a  fort  which  the  Danes  held  out  against  Ethelred  as 
already  mentioned ;  but  without  attending  to  suppositions,  we 
.have  the  historical  fact  that  it  was  founded  by  William  the  Con- 
queror, and  its  govcmineut  conferred  on  William  Peverel,  who 
seems,  or  at  least  his  son,  to  have  been  the  superintendant  of 

its  erection.* 

Of 

e  Xhif  cistle  not  being  mentioned  in  Domesdajf'boolr,  has  led  some  to  sop- 
pose  that  it  was  not  erected  until  the  reign  of  Heniy  the  fint. 


KOTTINOHAMBRIRB, 


105 


ad 


Of  in  State  at  that  period,  we  are  told  by  William  of  New* 
bargh,  that  it  was  made  so  strong  both  by  nature  and  art,  that  it 
was  esteemed  impregnable  (except  by  tamine)  if  provided  with 
a  sufficient  gaiTison. 

In  the  reign  of  Edward  the  third,  it  was  considered  so  strong 
as  to  be  a  secure  residence  for  the  Queen-mother  and  the  earl 
of  March  ;  and  it  was  by  stratagem  only  that  the  youthful  mo* 
narch,  (as  we  shall  notice  more  fully}  was  able  to  procure  ac* 
€€ss  in  order  to  check  the  arrogance  of  the  favourite. 

It  was  aCterwards  much  enlarged  by  Edward  the  fourth,  par* 
ticuiarty  with  an  immense  tower,  said  to  have  been  a  stately 
and  mugnificent  fabric  of  atone ;  to  which  Richard  the  third 
added  a  tower,  or  so  much  enlarged  and  strcngthcfned  that  built 
by  his  brother,  as  to  be  the  reputed  founder  of  it,  and  of  this 

e  scite  may  still  easily  be  ascertained. 

Those  who  are  anxious  to  enquire  accurately  into  its  form 
and  extent  may  have  recourse  to  Bering,  who,  by  means  of 
quotation, aided  by  conjecture,  is  very  copious  on  the  subject; 
but  perhaps  the  best  delineation  we  can  give  of  its  ancient 
stale  will  he  from  Leland,  who  visited  it  in  the  reign  of  Henry 
the  eighth.  He  says  *' there  is  a  great  likelihood  that  the  cas- 
telle  was  builded  of  stones  taken  out  of  the  rokke  and  the  great 
ditches  of  it. 

The  Base  Court  is  large  and  meetly  strong,  and  a  stately 
bridge  is  there  with  pillars,  being  bestes  and  Giantes,  over 
the  ditch  into  the  second  warde ;  the  frontier  of  the  which 
warde  in  the  entering  is  axceedinge  slronge  with  tnures  and 
portecoleces.  Much  part  of  the  west  i^ide  of  this  inner  warde# 
as  the  haul  and  other  thinges  be  yn  ruines.  Tlje  ci^t  side  is 
stronge  and  well  toured  ;  and  so  is  the  south  side* 

Bui  the  moste  bcautifullejit  and  gallant  building  for  lodging 
is  in  the  north  side  where  Etlward  the  4ih,  began  a  right  sump- 
tuous pccc  of  stone  work,  of  the  which  he  ckrely  Bnished  an 
excellent  goodlie  tour  tif  ;)  heights  yn  building,  and  brought 
up  the  other  part  likewise  frnm  the  foundation  with  stone  and 

marvel  us 


106 


1irOTTlildHAMSfflR£. 


manrelus  fair  compactd  windoes  to  layyng  of  the  first  soyle  for 

chatBht^rs  and  their  lofte. 

Then  king  Richard  his  brother,  as  I  hard  there,  forced  up 
upon  that  worke  another  peecc  of  one  loft  of  tymbre*  making 
round  wmdows  al^o  of  tynihre  to  the  proportiuii  of  the  afore- 
snid  windows  of  Stone^  a  good  fi^utuialion  for  tlic  new  tymbre 
windows.  So  that  surely  thai  north  part  is  an  exceding  piece 
of  work. 

The  dongfon  or  keepe  of  the  cmstelle  standeth  by  south  anJ 
egt,  and  is  exceding  strong  ei  muura  laci  ti  opere^ 

Ther  is  an  old  fair  chapel ie  ^nd  a  walle  of  a  greate  depthe* 
The  kepers  of  the  ca.stelle  say  Edv^ard  the  thirdes  band  came 
up  through  the  rok  and  toke  the  erie  Morlyiner  prisoner. 

There  is  yet  a  fair  stair  to  g.i  down  by  the  rok  to  the  ripe  of 
Lene.  There  be  diverse  buildings  belvryxt  the  dungeon  and 
the  imier  court  of  the  castelle  ;  and  !Uer  goith  also  douiic  a  stair 
ynto  the  groundi  \\h%T  Davy  kinge  of  iScottes,  as  the  castettanes 
say^  was  kept  as  a  prisoner. 

1  marked  in  all  3  chapetles  yn  the  castiHe,  and  3  welles/*^ 
From  ibis  description  of  Le)und's»  it  \%  evident  that  this  15  one 
of  tlie  castles  which  had  been  permilted  to  go  to  decay  in  the 
preceding  reign  ;  but,  as  Thorolorr  says^*^  the  whole  became  far 
more  rniuous  in  the  possession  of  Francis,  e;irl  of  Rutland,  in 
the  latter  end  of  whose  time,  many  of  the  gooffly  buildings 
were  pulled  down,  and  the  iron  and  other  ntateriaU  i^ld/' 

During  the  civil  warK«  we  have  already  seen  that  it  wasoc* 
copied  merely  as  a  fortress ;  but  was  soon  after,  by  order  of 
Cromwell  so  far  demolisbed  as  to  render  it  unserviceable  tor 
war*. 

After  the  restoration,  the  duke  of  Buckingham  claimed  it  in 
right  of  his  mother ;  but  soon  after  sold  it  to  the  duke  of  New- 
castle, who,  in  the  year  1674,  and  at  the  advanced  age  of  %% 
began  to  clear  away  the  whole  of  the  ancient  work,  and  build 
the  present  mansion,  which  he  lived  to  see  about  three  feet 
above  the  ground  i  and  dying  in  167G,  it  was  fuiished  according 

to 


NOTTIKGBAMStilKE. 


107 


lo  hvB  pUn  about  three  years  afterwarda*  Before  vrt  proceed 
ii>  delineate  lis  present  state,  it  will  be  proper  to  take  some 
notice  of 

MoBTiMER^s  "Hole, 
which  J  with  its  history,  has  caused  a  long  controversy  amongst 
the  various  writers  since  the  days  of  Camden ;  but  which  we  shall 
be  able  to  delineate  with  accuracy  and  novelty  through  the  kind 
attention  of  Mr,  Streilon  of  Lenton  priory,  the  present  archi- 
tect of  the  castle,  and  lo  whose  indefiitigable  spirit  of  research 
the  historical  world  is  much  indebted  for  a  local  discovery  which 
conBrtns  the  ancient  chronicles  in  their  simple  statements,  and 
clears  up  that  immense  mass  of  doubt  and  conjecture  in  which 
so  many  later  hisiuriaus  have  completely  lost  their  way.  It 
I8i  at  the  same  time,  necessary  to  remark,  that  the  discovery  to 
which  we  allude,  had  been  partisLlly  known  before,  although  the 
later  commentators  had,  by  some  unaccountable  neglect,  failed 
lo  avail  themselves  of  the  light  which  it  throws  upon  the  whole 
story, 

Rapinj  speaking  of  the  plan  of  Edward  the  third,  to  seize 
upon  the  favourite,  takes  his  account  of  it  from  the  old  ehro* 
nicies,  and  nays,  that  *'  to  execute  hi^  designs,  he  chose  the 
lime  the  parliu^ment  was  to  meet  at  Nottingham. 

The  court  being  come  to  that  town,  queen  Isabella  and  the 
carl  of  March  lodged  in  the  castle  with  a  guard  of  one  hundred 
and  eighty  knights;*  whilst  the  king  with  a  small  rttinue  was 
lodged  in  the  town. 

In  spite  of  these  precautions,  w  htch  seemed  to  shew  that  the 
the  queen  and  favourite  were  not  without  their  uneasiness,  Ed- 
ward having  gained   the  governor,t  entered  the  castle  through 

a  seem 

*  Stow  &ayt  that  tlie  Queen  !iad  itio  leys  of  tfae  castle  brouglit  to  tier 
every  niglifj  and  laid  them  under  her  pillow. 

♦  The  governor  was  Sir  Willianj  Elands  who,  ia  «  MSS<  chroitklc  qmited 
by  Dcriiigj  la  deicribed  tii  »<iyiiig  to  llie  young  king,  when  the  matter  vtui,  first 
proposed. "  Sir  woll  ye  understands^  that  the  y ftts  of  tbc  caMcIlc  bcth  loltcii  witU 
Ukjh  mud  queen  laabell  ^ent  hldder  by  nigtit  foi  tlic  kayca  dicreof,  and  they 


*  Msret  passagDf  Aiid  ctme  into  his  mother's  aptrtment^there 
watmt  first  aoino  noise  nade,  and  two  knights  of  the  gnard  were 
killed.  The  earl  of  March  was  apprehended,  and  notwith- 
standing the  queen's  cries  and  entreaties  to  spare  the  gallant 
IfortiBier,  he  was  carried  oat  the  same  way  the  king  came  in, 
siad  conducted  nnder  a  strong  guard  to  the  tower  of  Lwidon.^* 
tnw  oldeet  description  of  the  pamtige  thas  alluded  to,  b  In 
f  Camden, 

kelsjrdtf  under  tb«  cbemseO  of  her  beddii  bede  anto  tlie  morrow,  and  to  I 
Mtj  aot  cone  into  Ibe  eaatell  by  the  jats  no  mraner  of  wjte,  bat  yet  I  know 
hnHber  wigre  by  an  nley  tbet  stietcbetb  oete  of  the  word  tinder  die  esidie 
kill^  tbe  CRfleU  tbat  gootb  into  the  wett;,  which  eley  qoeen  Usbeli  no  wete 
fiCber  mcayne  ne  the  Mortimer  ne  none  of  his  compenye  Jcnowtk  al  not,  end 
so  I  ahall  lede  yoa  throogh  the  aley^  and  co  ye  shall  come  into  the  caitell 
without  aspiges  of  any  men  tbat  beth  your  Enemies."  Stowe  and  the  other 
cktwiklers  inform  ns  more  partSeotarly  than  Rapin  seems  to  bare  Ibonght 
Mscwary,  that  it  was  upon  Friday  after  the  feaat  of  St.  Lnke,  in  tbe  dead 
ifaM  of  tbe  niebt*  that  tbe  kinf  and  bis  party  ^  got  into  tbe  cistlt  by  a  way 
■mde  nnder  gronnd.  which  through  a  rock  pcsirfk  ly  stairt  «p  ta  tbe  kitfr 
(wbkb  place  hath  ever  since  been  called  MortioMr's  Hple)  and  entering 
a  rqom  next  to  the  queen's  lodgings,  found  the  Earl  with  Henry  bishop  of 
lineoln,  and  some  others,  &c.'*  Vide  Magna  Britannia,  Vol.  IV.  p.  7* 
The  qneen  Is  stated  to  ba^e  exclaimed,  **  Bel  Fitz,  Bel  Fitai  ayes  pitie  do 
gentill  Mortimer." 

^iXbia  anfortnnate  favounte  was  not  beard  in  bis  defence  against  tbe  Tarioos 
fbi^vfet  brooghl  against  Yam,  some  of  which  were  certainly  ratber  political 
errari  than  political  crieifs,  whilst  others  were  more  supported  by  ta/frmoc 
than  by  provf.  With  respect  to  his^  personal  familiarity  with  the  Queen- 
asoiber  however,  that  roust  still  remain  as  an  historical  fisct ;  altfaoogfa  he  bad 
a  Very  numerous  family  by  his  wife,  Joan  daughter  of  Peter  do  Gene- 
viUe  Lord  of  Trim  in  Ireland.  His  sentence,  which,  ran,  that  be  should, 
•I  n  traitofy  be  drawn  and  banged  on  tbe  oonmon  gallows  at  Tyburn, 
fias  .f x^uted  without  the  least  (avoor.  His  body,  after  hanging  two 
days  and  nights,  was  granted  to  tbe  Friars  minorib  who  baried  it  in  tbehr  dinicb, 
now  Christ  Church.  The  irregularity  of  bis  not  being  beard,  bowavery  proved 
in  tbe  end  advantageous  to  his  family,  for  Roger  his  grandson  obtained  af- 
terwards an  act  to  reverse  this  sentence  as  erroneous,  and  bis  descendants,  in 
the  fevale  line,  afterwards  mounted  the  throne  of  England.  Edward  the 
iburdi  was  son  of  Anne  Mortimer,  duchess  of  York,  and  beireta  of  Edniond 
her  brother,  the  last  earl  of  March.  9 


MOTTIffOHAMSHIRS. 


I0» 


Camden^  who  after  telling   us  ''certain  it  U  that  in  the  firsi 

court  of  the  castle  we  descend  with  lights  down  many  steps  inio 

another  subterraneous   vault  and  arched  rooms  ctit  in  the  rock 

A^tialf;  oti  the  walb  of  which  are  carved  Christ's  passion^  and  other 

things,  hy  the  hand  as  they  pretend  of  David  king  of  Scots  who 

was  there  imprisoned/'  adds  "  in  the  upper  part  of  the  castl6 

I  which   rises  high  on    tlie   rock,  we  came  by  many  steps  into 

a  sabterraneous  cavern  called  Moi"tIiner*a  hole,  from  Roger  Mor* 

timer's  concealing  himself  in  it,  when  his  conscience  gave  him 

the  alarm.'' 

The  later  historians  all  animadvert  upon  this  evident  error 
of  Camden;  and  Dering  says,  "had  Mr.  Camden  been  more 
I  exact  in  observing  the  place  we  are  speaking  of,  he  wotild 
;  hardly  have  fallen  into  this  error,  &c. ;"  bat  we  cannot  help  re* 
forting  upon  Dering  that  even  fie  seems  not  to  have  taken  that 
careful  observation  of  the  place  which  might  have  been  eic- 
pected  from  the  hints  given  him  by  a  Mr.  Paramour,  and  which 
he  mentions  in  his  description  of  the  place* 

That  the  passage,  now  called  Mortimer's  hole,  leading  from 

I    the  court  of  the  old  castle,  to  the  level  at  the  bottom  of  the  rock, 

was  not  the  secrci  passage  mentioned  by  the  historians,  is  almost 

self  evident;  for  it  is  a  vault  seven  feet  high  and  six  wide  with 

broad  steps  the  whole  way  down  cut  in  the  rock,  though  now 

almost  entirely  worn  away,  and  upwards  of  107  yards  in  length. 

There  are  even  now  the  remains, of  several  gates  which  were  in 

It  for  defence ;  and  Dering  himself  says,  that  after  the  conquest^ 

I     it  was  no  doubt  made  use  of  for  the  purpose  of  conveying  the 

"     meat  and  beer,    for   the   use  of  the  garrison,  the  nearest  way 

into  the  castle,  its  lower  entrance  opening  into  the  brewhouse 

I     yard,  and  connecting  it  with  the  mil  Is  erected  on  the  river  Lene, 

then  brought  to   run  close  by  the  rock  on  which  the  castle 

stands.     After  noticing  a  passage  from  Drayton's  Baron^s  wars, 

purporting  thai  this  •*  wonderful  passage  had  been  hewed  and 

j      dug  out  during  the  Danish  invasion  by  some  of  the  Saxon  kiiigi 

S  better  iccurjty  in  c^nt  of  a  siege*'  Dering  adds^  that  for 


W0TTtV6HAM&niR£. 

bisotvn  part  he  could  not  help  thinking  it  designed  to  rdreva 
the  castle  with  men  and  providion^,  in  case  of  a  siege,  in  which 
thtj  enemy  should  be  in  paisession  of  the  town, 

Thtt  a  passige  used  for  such  purpose*  could  hate  been  un- 
known in  the  reign  of  Edward  the  third,  is  impossible  ;  ne  might 
ihtrefore,  sufely  conclude,  even  without  having  seen  theplace^ 
that  the  paiftage  from  the  upper  court  yard   of  the   castle  into 
tll^  rock  yard,  or  brewhou&e  of  the  castle,  as  it  is  railed  in  old 
wrilingc*  and  which  seems  the  only  one  known  to   Leiand  or 
Olinden,  could  not  have  been  thai  secret  passage,  through  which 
Edwtird  and  his  party  entered.    With  respect  to  its  general  dc- 
•crtption,  even  as   it  exists  at  the  present  day,  Dering  is  cer* 
laifily  very  correct     lie  siays,  that  this  way  through  the  rock 
wat  provided  viiih  no  U^9  than  six  gates,  of  which  some  rcmatni 
ire  &liU  to  \m  aeeci*  hcsides  a  side  one,*  on  the  left   hand  going 
dowtt :  **  the  ftrsl  gitt  was  above  ground  leading  from  the  turret 
down  Kft  ili«  tec^Kiid;  the  place  where  the  turret  »tood  is  now 
c«f  eriMl  bv  part  of  the  modem  fabric^  and  the  passage   to  the 
}  {%  illM*  and  th«  gs^xe  itM-lf  walled  up  with  stone ;  to 
I  a  new  passage  cut  out  of  the  rock  since  the  building 
of  the  present  cattle,  without  the  wall  of  the  paveil  yard. 

•*  The  distance  bel%%*een  the  first  and  the  second  gate  I  take 
to  have  been  about  16  yards;  from  this  we  ttep  down  14  yards, 
and  meet  with  the  marks  of  another,  and  15  yards  lower  was  a 
fourth ;  miout  45jurds  behw  ihU,  on  the  l^  hand,  we  abterre  a 
guH  ktkktd  irpf  wkick  with  jeren  or  eight  9tep$  did  lead  up 
into  fOfMt  wtfrh  ^  the  old  tower  (as  the  late  Mr.  JcmUhan  Para* 
mour  informed  mt^  in  whose  time  it  was  kricked  up ;)  about  eight 
yards  below  this  stood  a  fifth,  and  the  sixth  and  lowest  which 
0|Nncd  into  the  ruck  yard,  and  is  also  now  bricked  up,  is  still  about 
Itmo  yurds  lower — there  arc,  all  the  way  down,  till  within  15  or 
16  yards  of  the  b<jtloin,  openings  in  the  side  of  the  rock  to  con. 
irey  light  into  this  passage,  and   to  serve  the  soldiers  to  shoot 

their 


I 


I 


KOTTINGUAMSniHIC. 


in 


I 


their  arrows  througb  upoti  the  enemy;  in  the  upper  part  ar6 
cut  out  sev^eral  regular  port  boles,  ninth  show  that,  during  the 
civil  war»  caaons  were  plaivted  llicre^  wiach  conimaiiik'U  all 
the  [DeadowA ;  there  are  besides  in  this  part  of  the  vault  ob* 
•ervable  man/  holes  or  excavations  about  a  foot  in  hetglit^ 
breadth,  and  drpth ;  tbe^^e  seem  to  have  been  made  to  lodge 
caiujon  ball?*  in  to  prevent  their  rolling  to  the  bottom," 

From   thi»    description,   which   is    undoubtedly   accurate    in 

t  general,  we  are  led  to  ituppose,  that  Dr.  Dering  was  as  careless 
in  his  examination  of  the  place  as  those  who  went  before  him* 
and  il  is  extretnt^ly  curious  that  he  pays  no  parttcul;ir  attention 
lo  the  observation  of  Mr.  Panunour  noticed  abi>ve  in  Italics,  If 
lie  bad  observed  this  passage  in  the  lel\  hand,  he  would  have 
found  that  it  was  not  bricked  up,  but  .so  artificially  closed  ^itli 
rough  stoue  as  to  resemble  the  Uving  rock  itself. 

Mr.  Strettonj  ho\%ever,  was  particularly  struck  with  Para- 
mour's description,  and  htingdelerrained  to  ascertain  the  lact* 
with  considerable  dilliculty  discovered  the  entrance  alluded  to* 
which  led  into  a  narrow  wimling  pa^^sage  mto  the  body  of  the 
rockt  and  seemed  to  direct  tttelf  towards  the  preseDt  terracef 
but  was  entirely  filled  up  at  the  upper  end.  After  removing 
the  gravel  and  soil  from  that  part  of  the  terrace  at  the  east  end  of 
Uie  present  building,  and  as  near  as  possible  to  the  sit^  of  the 
ancient  keep,  he  was  enabled  to  enter  J  be  passage  from  above, 
and  which  by  a  careful  comparison  with  the  plan  of  the  castle 
drawn  by  Smithson  in  1617,  and  some  other  MSS,  doemaaents 
m  Mr-  Stretion's  own  possession,  wa?  ascertained  to  have  origi- 

tnally  led  into  the  keep  which  contained  the  state  apartments, 
Thh  then   was  the  Mecrei  passage  which  Sir  William  Eland 
alone  knew,  and  uf  which  Mof  timer  and  the  queen  had  nosus* 

Ipicion ;  for  the  principal  passage  did  not  lead  into  the  body  of 
the  castle*  but  into  a  court  yard,  and  into  which,  if  there  was  an 
entrance  from  the  keep,  that  was  considered  as  secure  by  tbe 
keys  being  delivered  up  at  night  to  the  Queen* 

All  doubts  and  conjectures  are  therefore  completely  cleared 
Ji  up 


tit 


aOTTINOBAUBHIEl. 


■/ttn-aa- 


mjg^  by  ihb  tnf  esugaLion :  so  that  it  is  no  longer  oecessaiy  lo  m^ 
pose  lilt  principal  pa&sage  a  secret  one,  a  thmg  almost  mcredi- 
'  bh  ;  Oft  It  aoillf  hive  done*  to  doubt  the  whole  story«  in  coo- 
a«|iieiict  of  ihr  apptrent  incredibility, 

Tibs  ptt59g«  itaelf  is  again  partly  closed  up  below,  with  the 

iMMi  wbicil  b«ifore  had  been  used  tot  that  purpose;  on  the 

,  leTel  of  the  terracQ  it  is  completely  secured  and  gravelled  civeri « 

b  marked,  so  as  to  iihew  in  the  clearest  R»n»fr 

I  Hith  the  ancient  build itjgM  as  laid  down  m  Smith- 

i  ton's  plan. 

in  trhich   the  king  of  Scots  is  said  to  haicbecB 

at  the  cither  end  of  the  castle,  and  wasm&cl 

[  »olhiij|g  OKM-e  than  a  complete  range  of  cellars  dug  out  of  tha 

lock,  part  of  which  we   believe  were  preserved  for  the  use  of 

Ihc  modern  maitsion^and  the  rest  tilled  up  with  rubbish.* 

If  U  were  not  Ibr  these  historical  tkcts^  the  castJe  iteelf,  as  it 
now  axbl^  would  not  be  an  object  of  any  particular  interest 
Al  tha  lime  of  its  erection^  indeed^  it  was  much  admired  ;  ai]d 
Stukrty.  who  visited  it  soon  after,  says, "  it  is  a  goodly  building 
on  a  high  perpendicular  rock^  uid  seems  to  have  been  modelled 
after  s^me  of  Inigo  Jones4'^ 

Mr  ThroshyV  animadversion  on  it,  howeveri  is  not  an  unjust 

oaii  ha  aays  '*  art  should  hero  have  been,  in  etiect»  as  bold  %9 

alnra;  alof\y  massy  pile  toweriitg  towards  tho  heavens^  with 

iirrtlsand  embauled  walls,  tlie  tiiite  of  ages  pa^t,  placed  on  its 

Urow,  instead  of  the   present  formal  and  equal  edifice^  would 

[liave  created  a  scene  of  splendour  not  in  saemiogly  irregular 

lordcr/* 

Yet 

*  In  17tO  thii  pUttt  was  opened  bj  order  of  the  then  duke  of  Newcjiitte, 

jnofder  to  W'urrli  inr  the  cnrtUig?  s«id  to  liave  tieen  ni»de  by  the  kiug  ol 

$ffmt  snd  d«icri^d  by  Canwient  but  >«rirhout  Any  disco  very  of  (liem.  owing 

|t»  the  (rtAt  qimnetljr  of  rubbi^bj  Ate*     It  is  now  wjtlted  uji  with  hrtck>  ntid  iJ 

I  th«  rtiAi  *u\ti  of  «  ^ard  which  was  formed  fur  vnrious  donieitic  purpofe^» 

r  ft  •Intighter  hou9<!«  &c«  at  the  {jertod  when  the  castle  wm  uiltsbtted  try 


MOTTIVOKAMStllRE. 


ltd 


I 


I 

I 


ITct  it  must  be  allowed  that  the  ediBce  has  some  merit  ia  iU 
architcfcture  abstractedly  considered.  It  is  a  very  large  build- 
ing* on  a  rustic  baseaient  which  supports  an  ornamented  front 
of  the  Corinthian  order,  with  a  very  grand  double  flight  of 
tteps  leading  to  the  principal  range  of  apartments.  Over  the 
door  of  the  north  ea^t  front,  here  alluded  to,  is  an  equestrian 
Matue  of  the  founder*  who  was  so  determined  on  its  erection 
I  hat  he  tied  up  a  considerable  estate  by  his  will  fur  that  express 
purpose.  The  statue  is  the  more  remarkable  for  being  carved  out 
of  one  solid  block  of  stone  brought  from  Donnington  in  Leices- 
tershire, and  was  executed  by  an  ingenious  artist  of  the  name 
of  Wilson.*  The  other  sides  of  the  building  are  handsome,  but 
not  so  highly  ornamented,  with  a  handsome  terrace  surround- 
ing the  whole,  and  an  arcade  on  the  south  aide.  Thift  has  long 
been  a  favourite  promenade  with  the  haut  ton  of  Not  ting  1mm,  and 
tf  certainly  very  delightful  in  a  summer  evening,  from  the  ex* 
tenatveness  of  the  prospect  in  which  the  Trent  format  a  very  con- 
:«piciJous object  in  the  fort*  ground;  then  the  groves  of  Cliftoa 
appear  with  Wilford  on  the  banks  of  the  river;  beyond  this  to 
the  right  is  a  rich  valley  over  which  Derby  shire  may  be  clearly 
seen;  then  Woflaton  hall,  and  the  forest  oF Sherwood,  &c.  and 
to  the  left»  the  vale  and  cattle  of  liclvoir,  Rudington  hills,  and 
Colwick  hall  and  village,  Flolm  Pierpoint,  &c.  whilst  almost: 
the  whole  town  of  Nottingham  h  below  in  a  birdB  eye  view. 
This  is  the  same  prospect  partly  seen  from  the  openings  in  the 
rock  in  Mortimer's  Hole,  and  vvhich,  in  its  detached  masses^ 
iieems  like  so  many  living  pictures  in  a  frame* 

The  apartments  \n  the  interior  were  once  very  fine  ;  but  they 
Vol.  XI  I.  H  have 

*  Dering  tayi  ofliiig,  th&t  loon  ft(ter  ercculing  iKji  work,  he  was  for  a  tints 
•polled  for  a  statuary}  b«caotea  Leiceatershira  ludy,  tbe  wjdaw  Lady  Pud- 
•ey»  who  wa«  poifrtted  of  a  very  targe  jointorc,  fatling  deeply  in  love  with 
huog  goihm  koigljlcd,  aiid  married  Iiim;  but  lie  Uvjiig  up  to  the  citent  of 
hU  aproQ  »triag  e&tate,  and  his  Jady  dying  before  him,  Sir  William  <}uick1y 
ralumed  to  his  formrr  occupatiofi,  aad  the  public  rccovarad  iha  los*  of  an 
f  miiieTir  artivt. 


lU 


XOTTlNOHAMSIIiae. 


iMve  l^Mg  bf  en  neglected.  Throsby,  who  visited  It  about  fifteeii 
Of  tireiuy  yean  ago«  says  **  within  the  castle  I  foand  notbingto 
ailimct ;  the  pieiures  which  once  adomi!d  the  vi^alls  of  the  apart- 
mefil»  are  now  immured*  aiid  the  chief  of  the  ^rniture. 
remaiiisonly  stimetapesfry*  &.e.  Some  of  the  rooms  I 
Ml  occupied  by  a  Mi^  Rirkby;  lately  a  part  of  the  ciulltt 
t  ttted  aa  a  boartliiig  ftcbool."  At  present  we  fiod  it  inbabited 
[by  luro  ladiest  in  separate  teuements;  but  there  isi  nothing  to 
[beaeeUf  which  can  induce  a  stranger  to  intrude  upon  their  do* 
itic  privacy*     The 

Park 

I  in  biU  i^mall*  loniaintng  only  IdO  acrrB^  and  at  present  in  a  very 

I  neglected  slate,  yet  still  used   as  a  summer  promenade^  and 

ff«q«ented  from  diflerent  ruads  leading  through  it  to 

iTUfiifdf  Lentoo,  &c«     U  has  now  no  deer,  and  but  very  few 

1^  y«l  wr  are  informed  that  it   was  well    stocked  with  the 

fi»rroer  oiitik  aller  17iO»  and  that  it  had  many  good   timber 

tf«ea»  until  they  were  cut  dowo  on  the  property  betug  leqiies- 

tral«>d  in  the  civil  wars* 

Dr,  Tborotou  is  of  opinion  that  this  park«  or  at  least  the  one 

r  hali  of  it«  was  that  which  William  Peverell  had  a  license  from  the 

Conqueror  to  enclose  for  the  purpose  of  making  him  an  orchard. 

In  that  Itcen^'   tlie  quantity  stated  is  ten  acres^  which  of  ajs- 

iCicnt  foreU  measure  is  equal  to  about  6fty  of  our  present  ones> 

iTbe  most  remarkable  object  in  the  park  is  a  range  of 

Caves, 

or  Pofiish  or  Papist  ho1es«  as  they  are  vulgarly  called^  which  has 
cen  considered  as  confirtiring  the  conjecture  that  ihey  actually 
belonged  to  an  abbey  or  monastery^  probably  that  of  Lentor, 
built  by  Will  tain  PfvereL 
They  stand  some  distance  west  of  the  castle,  in  the  face  4lf  a 
Lc!iirpretly  near  to  the  banks  of  the  Lene,  as  it  now  runs ;  aiid  are 
described  by  Deriiig  as  the  ruins  of  an  ancient  pile  of  building, 
cut  and  framed  in,  the  rock.    There  are 


4 


upon, 


no 


NOTTIVGHAMSUtRt. 


lis 


I 


I 


I 


I 


no  written  records  of  ihem  whatever^  and  of  course,  conjectures 
have  been  many  and  various. 

In  the  early  part  of  the  last  century,  when  Stukely  visited 
them,  they  were  more  perfect  that  at  present:  he  says,  "  what 
is  visible  at  present  is  not  of  so  old  a  date  as  the  time  of  the 
Britons,  yet  I  see  no  doubt  that  it  is  founded  upon  theirs.  This 
is  a  ledge  of  perpendic«i!ar  rock  h^vvn  out  into  a  church,  houses* 
chambers*  dove* house,  &c.  The  church  is  like  those  in  the 
rocks  at  Bethlehem,  and  other  places  in  the  Holy  I-and.  The 
altar  is  natural  rock,  and  there  has  been  painting  upon  the  wall : 
a  steeple,  I  suppose  where  a  bell  hung,  and  regular  pillars. 
The  river  here  winding  about  makes  a  fortification  to  it,  for  it 
comes  to  both  ends  of  the  cliiF,  leaving  a  plain  before  the  mid- 
dle. Th«  way  to  it  was  by  gates  cut  out  of  the  rock,  and  with 
oblique  entrance  for  more  safety.  Withtiut  is  a  plain  with  thre« 
niches,  which  I  fancy  their  place  of  judicature,  or  the  like  :  be- 
tween this  and  the  castle,  a  hermitage  of  like  workmanship/' 

To  this  description,  it  is  scarcely  possible  to  add  any  thing 
that  will  give  a  beUer  idea  of  the  place.  We  can  only  say,  that 
it  has  suffered  considerably  from  the  elFects  of  time  and  weather 
sioce  Stukely  wrote;  but  enough  still  remains  to  gralify* 
and,  at  the  same  time,  to  excite  curiosity.  The  outer  part  has 
ftiUen  down  in  several  places,  evidently  from  the  etli^cts  of 
damp  and  frost ;  but  the  church  and  altar,  and  even  fiome  ves- 
tiges of  the  ancient  paintings,  may  be  clearly  traced  ;*  many  of 
the  pillars  are  ornamented  with  capitals,  &c.  and  thespandrilled 
Gothic  arch  is  very  well  imitated  m  several  places ;  a  fact  in* 
deed  which  militates  against  their  very  early  antiquity.  It  is 
mnch  to  be  regretted  that  no  care  whatever  is  taken  to  preserve 
this  venerable  specimen ;  the  floor  f>f  it  is  broken  into  boles, 
where  the  water  lodges*  and  much  of  it  is  disfigured  Avith  the 
grossest  Bltbiness.     In  the  summer,  these  excavations  have  be^ 

H2  come 

♦  Svme  iftgeninus  ttrtlit  has  added  a  nntBWr  pf  piintingi,  such  at  ck'phanrf, 
Mldiers  in  full  accoatrcraents,  kc,  not  itreJegaotly  donr,  but  which  muit  b« 
CloMcd  amongn  '*  modem  aniiqucs,'' 


flspfiie  Om  luuuito of tii«  veiy  lovrtit  of  Motely^wkothira tak» 
up  their  nocturnal  abode ;  and  if  no(fc  A  dan-of  thievety  tl  mxf  he 
fMVidevrdM/ioaiathingwoKMk  •  • ,.  r.  .  - .  -  •  *iiif »  i 
.1  .On  a  careful  exaAiaa^ao^  U.  it^videnl  thai  Ihs  wholSiliMe 
9f  e3i6av«liw>ii.ibai:  baau  the  work  of  diffiureaA  periods*..  The 
J>oYe-c0ta»  for  iii8fta0C0i>M  but  of  Modern  date;  aodcloealiyil* 
where  there  are  chimniei  cut  through  the  roek«  ihu  macto  of  the 
imok«  iitUlreinain»  as  ICby  the.eflfecls#fyeaterday^-e,oocupawDy> 
J)^tiog.  aaygi  that«  ki  his  tmew  tome  old  peiapte:.rei»eniheiicd 
thjt»  oiiieh  more  extensife  J  and  be  .adds  from  UndkioB*  f  ilhat 
ia,the  time  of  il», civil  war,,  the  Romtdheads  had.  demolished  a 
part  of  Ahem  unfar  pretence,  ^f  Ihetr  abhorrence  Id  fioperjf^ 
whluh  majhpprhaps  bo  tb^/sole  lerigiii  •of •  their  teceiifiBg^Ihe 
vime.of  PmMit  hotflSk 

t^.W»  wiUr'liot^fi4iow,the. various  authors  threug|i' Ihetr  wide 
cang^  pf  cofljjet^tuvfsf  but  must  confess  that  there  seems  most' 
probabilil^  m  tM  which,  supposes  them  lo  h»ve»heen  the  iesi* 
djsni:e  of  some  order,  of  anchorets  or  h^mits^inol  endoiied, 
though  perhaps  dependent  upon  some  religious  riieuee»-  and* 
therefope.  aotoreoNded  in  eny  list  uf  religieusf  fsnedetisns.  <  To 
whieh  we  must  add«  that  it  is  extremely  ^probable  thai,  wheii 
mpreentiret  their  entrance,  was  more  ea#iily  concealed;  aadk 
therefore,  that  in  the  early  days  of  the  reformation  -they  may 
have  been  occupied  at  times  Tor  religious  purposes,  by  these 
who  were  averse  from  the  neyr  order  of  things^  ;end  wished  Iq 
enjoy  the  exercise  of  their  ritual  in  secret. . 
.  The  place  designated  by  Stukely,  as  an.hermiiage>  has 
nothing  remarkable ;  and  we  warcnot  fortunate  enough  to  find 
ou^  the  spot  mentioned  by  leering  as  affording  the  most  icleer 
and  perfect  echo,  he  had  ever  met  with» 

At  the  upper  end  of  the  pa^k*  adjoining  the  Derby  reedv 
are  the  .     . 

Barxacrs 

already  mentioned ;  a  spacious  range  of  brick  buildings,  open 
and  airy,  and  healthfully  situated.  They  were  erected  by 
government  in  1792-93. 

When 


nOTTIKORAMSBIRK. 


Jl? 


I 


I 


I 


^  When  the  unhappy  Cbarlet  the  f\rst  resolved  to  raise  an  artny 
hi  defence  of  his  prerogatives  against  the  encroachments  of  the 
Parliamenl'i  he  appointed  Nottingham  as  the  spot  where  his 
standard  should  be  raised,  and  which  is  said  to  have  been  first 
hoisted  on  one  of  the  towers  of  the  old  cajit1e>  but  afterwards  re- 
moved to  the 

Standard  HjLt, 

Which  is  just  ivithoLit  the  old  vrall  on  the  north  side,  and 
sttnated  on  part  of  ihe  Castle  Hill.  The  <ipot  is  still  pointed  out 
at  the  present  day»  thoug^h  its  name  has  since  been  changed  to 
ihfltl  of  Nevil's  Closei  being  the  property  for  many  years  of  a 
family  of  that  name.  In  order  to  mark  the  exact  spot,  a  post 
had  stood  here  for  a  long  time,  but  being  at  length  pulled  up, 
the  then  owner,  in  order  that  it  might  still  be  exactly  known, 
planted  several  elm  trees;  but  these  were  repeatedly  destroyed 
by  the  mischievous  boys  of  the  plarci  perhaps  stimulated  by 
those  who  ought  to  hare  been  witter  than  to  wish  to  destroy  the 
memory  of  a  place  remarkable  for  an  historical  fact,  for  the  sake 
of  some  paltry  feeling  in  politics. 

In  consequence  of  the  removal  of  any  exact  mark^  the  local 
antiquaries  have  been  at  their  usual  conjectures  respecting  a 
fact  even  so  recent  as  this  ;  and  some  have  asserted  thai  a  hill 
a  atnali  distance  to  the  north,  called  Derry  Mount,  was  the  iden- 
tical spot.  Dr.  Dering,  however,  is  of  a  contrary  opinion,  and  we 
think  for  a  sufhcient  reason,  if  he  is  right  in  asserting  that  this 
latter  place  is  not  within  the  jurisdiction  of  the  castle. 

Waving  all  furl  her  conjecture^  however,  we  shall  briefly  state 
a  few  of  the  leading  circumstances  from  Clareridon,  who  tells 
us,  at  the  close  of  his  first  volume,  that  the  king  "  published  a 
proclamation  by  which  he  required  all  men  who  could  bear 
arms  to  repair  to  him  at  Nottingham  by  the  25th  of  August  fol- 
lowing, on  which  AAy  he  would  set  up  his  royal  standard  tliere> 
which  all  good  subjects  were  obliged  to  attend.^^ 

It  appears  that  some  of  his  advisers  proposed  York  in  pre- 
ference to  Nottingham  J    but  the   king  thought  he  would  be 

II S  nearer 


118  yoTTtyeaAiciKfBB. 


>  to  mne  fHeadi  who  wwtt  alirriBg  m  hiirfiMrosr^lMliiii 
the  sooth  and  weit  He  •ecordingljr  came  to  NottfaigkaMi  • 
few  days  beibre  the  9Sch;  and  haviiig  gone  lowardf  CoveMry 
with  a  few  troopfy  die  gates  were  shot  against  him,  and  he  BomaA 
it  necenary,  in  consequence  of  the  appearance  of  aDaie  of  the 
parliamentarian  forces,  to  return  to  Nottingham  on  the  day  «p* 
pointed  for  the  ceremony. 

^  According  to  proclamation,  upon  the  35th  day  of  Angnst 
(160,)  the  standard  was  erected  abont  six  of  the  clock  in  the 
evening  of  a  very  stormy  and  tempesUioas  day.  The  king  hiaih 
self  with  a  small  train  rode  to  the  top  of  the  Castle  hill»  Vamey 
the  Bjiight  Marshal,  who  was  standard  beaieo  oarrying  the 
standard,  which  was  then  erected  oii  that  place,  with  little  ether 
ceremony  than  the  sound  of  drams  and  trampets :  melancholy 
men  obsenred  many  ill  presages  about  thai  time.  Thestuidard 
was  blown  down  the  same  night  it  had  been  set  op,  byavery 
strong  and  onruly  wind,  and  could  not  be  Sxed  again  inaday 
or  two,  till  the  tempest  was  allayed,  he*** 

Bering,  and  Tboroton,  as  well  as  Thresby,  speak  of  its  having 
been  erected  on  the  98d;  but  this  most  allode  merely  to  the 
usoal  hoisting  of  the  standard  in  the  castle  on  the  kuig's  arrival, 
which  was  on  the  33d,  and  which  is  done  even  at  the  present 
day  at  Windsor  when  his  Majesty  is  there,  but  the  ^brmai 
erccticn  of  it,  agreeable  to  the  proclamation,  was  that  which  took 
place  on  the  Standard  hill.  The  king's  declaration  on  this  im« 
portant  day,  was,  after  setting  up  the  standard,  and  the  cere* 
mony  of  blessing  his  arms,  «'  that  he  would  govern  according 
to  the  known  laws  of  the  land ;  and  if  he  failed  in  these  things* 
he  would  expect  no  relief  from  maui,  nor  protection  from 
Heaven.'' 

Before  we  quit  the  environs  of*  the  castle,  it  is  necessary  to 
take  some  further  notice  of  the 

Ktvam  Lemb, 
as  far  at  least  as  it  is  here  locally  cmmected  with  the  town.    In 
an  old  perambulation  of  the  forest  taken  in  the  16th  of  Henry 

the 


HOTTtlTGHAMStllRS* 


1J9 


k 


third  (19^1) the bouuds are  descnbed  asninning  "solo  Lenton, 
aiid  from  ihence  by  the  same  water,  as  it  was  wont  of  old  lime 
to  run  into  the  water  of  Trent/'  which  confirms  the  generally 
received  opinion  as  recited  by  Dering.  that  at  Lenton  bridge  it 
u»edj  before  the  Conquest,  to  turn  towards  the  soiiih  and  empty 
itself  into  the  Trent,  opposite  lo  Wiiford ; but  that  the  Conqueror, 
or  at  least  one  of  the  Peverels,  turned  it  into  a  new  cot  running 
by  the  foot  of  the  castle  rock,  as  it  does  at  present,  along  the 
south  side  of  the  town^  and  thence  to  SneUuon  meadows,  where 
it  divides  the  jurisdiction  *»f  Noliingham  and  the  pariah  of 
Sneinton^  and  turning  short  otl'f<iUs  into  tl»e  TrenU 

Some  people  have  been  of  opinion  th;ti  its  present  course  is 
of  a  more  modern  date ;  but  the  fjuotaiion  from  llie  pirambtJ- 
lation  must  now  be  considered  as  conclusive* 

Leland  says,  "  the  little  ryver  of  Lene  and  the  great  stream 
of  Trente  cum  nere  together  in  the  medow  on  the  south  fide  uf 
ike  town;  and  when  any  land  waters  cum  down  much  of  the 
tale  and  meadowes  there  be  overflowexi*"  Since  his  time,  how- 
ever, great  improvemeuts  have  been  made  in  ihf  state  of  this  river. 
Throsby  has  recorried  the  particulars  with  such  accuracy,  that  wc 
shall  quote  him  where  he  says^  that  the  passage  over  tiie  Leen 
(or  Lene)  into  Nottingham,  was  made  between  twenty  and 
thirty  years  ago,  very  commodious,  and  aji  ornament  to  the  town. 
In  fact  it  is  sa  at  the  present  moment;  but  when  he  wrote,  it  had 
been  partly  destroyed  by  a  great  tttjod  which  happened  lu 
March  1795.  He  further  says  when  the  improveraenis  firM  look 
place,  in  consequence  of  making  a  cut  from  the  Erewa^lj  canal 
near  Nottingham,  to  communicate  with  the  Trent  near  Trent 
bridge,  the  old  road  ftom  the  bridge  to  the  town  was  in  u  great 
measure  cut  away  for  that  purpose.  The  new  high  road  wa<i, 
therefore,  formed  in  a  straight  litic,  at  a  very  great  expense,  and 
raised  to  a  height  which  vv as  supposed  to  be  far  above  any  pro* 
bable  rise  of  the  rivers*  By  the  execution  of  tlii^  plan,  a  num- 
ber of  little  bridges  were  united  into  one  grand  and  light  range 
of  arches  over  all  the  water  currents  and  sv\ampy  grotmd  on  the 

H  i  L*>f\dou 


HOTTIVOBAMSHIRS* 


I 


hmitm  hmmI.  Tliia*  however^  could  not  resbt  thatsev«c«  Ibcdf 
Ui«  Tcry  fooodalioo  «>f  the  arches  was  shaken^  mocli  oflli 
solid  road  wi9  swvpt  aumy ;  and  ibe  whole  damage  m 
m^lfd  al  upward!  of  900(ML 

fiince  that  period,    the  xvbote   has  been   repaired,   maj 
coRMilidaied*  as  to  hid  defiance  to  ev^try  thing  but  the 
aUacki  of  time* 

Th#  TVrnl  to4|€  fraa anciently  c^lltd  Hesthbethe  bridgej  at^ 
cording  to  the  opinion  of  Thorotun  and  others;  and  mw:k  an* 
UiqiMmii  conjecture  may  be  found  on  this  subject  in  Deriftg  and 
Throsby,  There  certainly  was  a  bridge  built  Ijere  by  EdwaH 
IIhi  liidert  about  a  century  before  the  Norman  accession^  which 
rtmaoed  in  part  until  IStiS,  when  it  was  almost  completely  de- 
alroyed  by  the  ice.  The  corporation  then  erected  the  present 
bridge  ofaione^  oonaiaitng  of  twenty  arches,  to  which  conside* 
rable  r^paira  and  improirttnents  have  been  made;  notwithstand- 
ing which  it  hat  a  rery  retierable  a ppeerancej  throwing  iu  long 
range  of  arcbea  acroAS  the  flats  on  the  London  road.  The  fundi; 
for  the  9Uppoft  otthis  bridge  are  now,  wc  believe,  pretty  consi* 
derablc.  Even  in  the  middle  of  the  last  century^  they  anaonnttd 
to  130/.  per  annum,  which  conniving  of  houses  and  landi  granted 
by  the  crown,  ofgiftsi  and  legacies,  besides  toUs,  &c,  must  now 
be  considerably  tmproired  in  value.  We  liave  not  seen  any  re* 
cant  atatement  of  thc^e  funds;  but  the  sum  mentioned  was  a 
net  receipt  after  paying  all  charges^  "  burgesses  parts,  &c/' 
The  rapidity  of  the  floods  in  the  Trent,  ao  often  mentioned, 
pravants  all  Httcmpt<s  at  the  erection  of  water  mills,  and  is  the 
reaaon  why  a  stranger  on  his  first  arrival  is  forcibly  struck  with 
iha  appaarance  of  so  many  windmills,  where  there  is  apparently 
inch  a  copious  supply  of  water.  We  cannot  hclpljcing  of  opinion, 
bowever,that  very  commodious  water  mills  might  be  erected  here 
upon  tba  same  principle  as  those  ou  the  banks  ofthe  Rhine  in  Ger- 
many* These  are  erected  upon  platforms  of  wood,  properly 
fccured  against  the  force  of  the  current,  and  made  to  rise  and 
_&U  with  the  water.     In  seasons  of  frost,   they  might  be  totally 

4  removed  i 


KOTTtNOHABtSlffnC.  1?# 

remored;  as  is  done  in  many  ciiirs  an  ih^  Rhine,  particularly 
at  Menu.     Notlinghanii  in  its 

Ecclesiastical  BivtsioN, 
has  three  parishes;  St.  Mary's;  St*  Peter's;  atitl  St,  Nichotas ; 
each  of  which  has  its  appropriate  church;   anti  there  is  besides 
the  extra-parochial  chapel  of  St.  James,  lately  built  on  part  of 
the  castle  ground* 

St.  Mary's  is  the  largest  parish,  and  contains  the  prin- 
cipal church,  nhicU  standing  on  a  bold  eminence.,  twenty-three 
yards  in  perpendicular  height  above  the  level  of  the  meadows, 
presents  a  commanding  appearance  to  the  spectator  in  almost 
every  direction,  Leland,  when  speaking  of  it,  says  that  *'  it  is 
excellent  nexvc,  and  nny forme  yn  work,  and  so  many  fair  wyn- 
dows  yn  it  that  no  artificer  can  imagine  to  set  more."  Stukely 
also  describes  it  as  "  a  fine  old  llghtjiotne  building,  with  a  good 
ring  of  eight  bells," 

As  it  is  said  by  Letand  to  be  "  newe/'  we  must  presume  that 
it  had  just  received  a  complete  repair  at  his  visit;  for  its  anti- 
quity is  of  a  much  older  date,  and  carried  hack  by  some  to  the 
Saxon  times,  evident  indeed  from  its  architecture,  or  at  least 
previous  to  the  reign  of  Stephcu,  when  thai  mode  of  architec-^ 
lure  fell  into  disuse*  We  are  not  disposed,  however,  to  place 
any  reliance  on  the  tale  of  Dering,  of  a  workman  who  told  htm 
that  in  repairing  the  west  end,  he  had  seen  a  date  cut  in  one  of 
the  timbers,  which  he  did  not  remember,  but  knew  that  it  was 
upwards  of  eleven  hundred  years  old  !  This  church  is  built 
quite  in  the  collegiate  style,  in  form  of  a  cross,  with  a  very 
august  tower  in  the  centre,  and  evidently  of  the  Gothic  of  Henry 
the  seventh's  reign  :  and  its  whole  appearance  is  venerable  and 
impressive. 

^Jtisat  present  undergoing  a  complete  repair,  and  it  is  but 
fltie  to  the  taste  of  those  who  superintend  it,  to  say,  that  the 
ancient  workmanship  is  preserved  as  much  as  possible.  It  is  at 
the  same  time  a  matter  of  regret  that  the  ancient  bell  loft  in  the 

body 


1^ 


VOTTHrGBAMSHtEB. 


hn^y  of  tlie  cbureh  is  taken  down^  as  it  was  a  very  cttHovt 

ffrtg^ent  of  oW  cusimns. 

The  interior  is  as  %'€Dcrabl«  as  the  outside  ;  tlie  windows  cast  | 
ttdim   religiouii  liglit,  but  arc  no  longer  adorned  with  iheir  an- 
cient painted  glass,  except  some  trifling  fragments.     There  was  J 
silso  an  ancient  painting  on  the  waU,  of  St.  Christopher;  but 
nothing  remains  to  gratify  cyriosity,  except  some  faint  shades 
'  that  are  scarcely  perceptible- 

The  moniimenls  in  the  church  have  once  been  numerous; 
both  myraf  or  of  the  tablet  kind^  and  also  many  brass  plates; 
but  these  latter  were  almost  entirely  stripped  oflT  by  tbe  liberal 
nnd  reff^rming  round  Iieads  in  the  civil  commotions  of  tbe 
St  vcnteenih  century, 

In  the  south  aisle  is  "  our  Lady's*  chapel"  which  contains  the 
lomb  of  the  first  and  second  Earls  of  Cbre,  who  died  at  the  he- 
ginning  and  middle  of  the  seventeenth  century;  and  opposite 
to  this,  on  the  north  side  is  the  "  Chapel  of  All  SainU*'  the  bu- 
rial place  of  the  Plum! re  family.  In  ibis  latter  chapel  is  a  win- 
flnw  which,  fur  si^eand  elegance  of  ornament,  surpasses  roost 
that  we  have  seen  of  its  date  and  style,  and  whose  ramifications 
mu\  irncery,  by  making  even  darkness  more  visible^  add  much 
III  ihr  nolemniiy  of  ibc  surrounding  scene  of  mortality. 

The  ftiuient  organ  was  destroyed   in  the  civil  wars;  anotbtr 

Intib    in    I7(U,  which   %vas   taken  down  and  replaced  in  1742: 

but  the  present  elcgane  and  fine  toned  one  was  erected  in  1777, 

by  Sncuf^r,     It  has  two  fronts  ;  and,  both  in  tone  and  elegance^ 

is  a  convincing  proof  of  tbe   extraordinary  skill  of  its  maker* 

For  the  inscriptions  on  the  raonumentji,  ami  on  the  bells  which 

jiow  amount  to  ten  in  number,  we  must  refer  to  Dering.  as  even 

^  slight  recapitulation  would  far  exceed  our  limits*     Before  the 

In'fuimation  this  church  had  a  efuild  or  fraternity  of  six  priests 

iin  honour  of  the  Trinity,  and   also  three  chantries.     The  Tri* 

k^nntal   and   Annual    visitatiotis  of  the   archbishop^  and  of  tbe 

urehdracon,  are  always  held  in  ibis  church. 

Hr.  Pi:tkii's  Church  is  a  hiiudsome  edifice  with  a  lofty  spire, 

^  standing 


NomKQUAUSHtftS. 


1S3 


standing  near  the  market  place.     li  silU  retains  some  memorials 

of  Saxon  archiiecture ;  much  of  Gothic  ;  and  a  considerable  share 
of  modern  additions^  added  during  a  recent  repair.  The  necessity 
for  these  modern  additions  was  occasioned  by  the  damage  which 
itsustained  in  the  civil  wars  during  the  siege  of  the  town  by 
Cromwell's  forces;  at  which  time  in  particular  a  shell  fell  upon 
the  vestry,  and  destroyed  not  only  that  but  also  pari  of  the  body 
of  the  church.  It  is  at  present  well  lighted  in  consequence  of 
its  modern  windows^  and  issudictently  large  to  accommodate  the 
parishioners  ;  which  cannot  be  said  of  St.  Mary's^  whose  parish 
is  considerably  krger  than  both  the  others. 

Whilst  digging  a  vault  about  a  century  ago^  the  workmen  dis- 
covered the  remains  of  John  de  Piumirc,  the  benevolent  foun- 
der of  the  hospital  at  the  bridge^  and  which  still  bears  his  name  ^ 
and  who*  with  his  brother,  desired  by  witi  to  be  buried  in  the 
chape)  of  All  Saints  in  this  church* 

Here  is  a  very  good  ring  of  bells,  the  7th  of  which  was  given 
to  th*  church  by  Margery  Duubleday,a  washerwoman ^  in  1544, 
with  twenty  shilliit^s  per  anmim  to  the  j(exto(i>  for  the  ringing 
of  it  every  morning  at  fonro'clock>  in  order  to  rouse  all  future 
nymphs  of  the  tub  to  their  daily  labour. 

There  are  many  monuments  in  the  church  j  but  they  are  prin* 
cipally  interesting  to  the  local  antiquary,  as  iUustrative  of  the 
descent  of  the  various  families  in  the  parisht  In  this  church  the 
Spiritual  Court  is  held« 

St.  Nicholas'  Church  was  pulled  down  in  the  civil  wars,  by 
order  of  Colonel  Julius  Hutchinson,  the  parliamentarian  gover* 
iiorj  its  materials  applied  to  private  profit,  and  the  belb  as  it 
is  said  sent  by  tlic  goviTimr  to  the  niauur  house  at  Uvvthorpc.* 
The  reason  assigned  for  pulling  it  down,  was  its  extretne  vici- 
nity to  the  castle,  which  would  have  been  beneficial  to  a  he- 
sieging 

•  Tbiiteemfi  however*  partly  conirndicted  bj  a  fuel  incntiotied  bjThroiby, 
who  sayt  tb»l  in  digging  sniue  veart  ago  tiPitr  llie  loundalion  of  the  pres(T»t 
tower,  |Jirt  uf  a  t>eU  was  foutid  brokro  io  pieces,  Aiip[»u4«il  td  liave  bven  din^ 
ax  the  detuuliiiiia  of  tke  uld  churcli. 


iti 


ItOrTIKOSAllfsntllB* 


^egiiig  army  in  case  of  an  attack*  The  pfes^nt  ediBce  irift 
erected  in  1678;  it  is  of  bricks  oniamented  with  stone  corners, 
window  frame s,  &c.  and  has  a  light  and  airy  appearance.  There 
is  a  very  fioe  prospect  from  the  church  yard,  though  its  elevt* 
tion  is  only  ekven  yards  abowc  the  level  of  the  Trent.  • 

-•  The  interior  iR  very  well  lighted,  and  extremely  comfortableii 
Dnsequence  of  the  great  attention  paid  to  it;  for  the  parish  n 
of  4ate  years  so  increased  9s  lo  be^superior  to  St.  Peter V  It 
consists  of  a  spacious  nave  and  two  side  aisles,  the  southem- 
niost  of  which  was  much  enlarged  in  1166  by  priva  e  subscrip- 
tion; and  a  similar  extekif^ion  of  the  north  aisle  took  place  m 
1783,  when  500/.  were  raised  for  that  purpose.  It  has  been  of 
late  years  new  paved,  and  oriiamL-nted  with  a  handsome  pulpti 
nnd  reading  de^k,  and  also  with  a  new  gallery  on  ihe  nortK 
side.  The  ancient  monuments  were  all  destroyed;  and  the 
modern  ones  do  not  require  any  particular  notice.  Amongiit 
other  parochial  charities^  is  a  chance  htquui  of  Anthony  Walker, 
a  wandering  beggar,  who  left  iwo  cottages  and  sijc  acres  of 
ground  at  Matlock  to  that  parish  in  which  he  should  did  which 
happened  to  be  this  of  St,  Nicholas. 

St.  James's  Church,  or  chapel,  has  laltly  been  built,  in  con* 
aequence  of  the  great  increase  of  population,  on  castle  ground, 
which  is  extra^parocbial.  On  or  near  to  its  ociie,  was  in  ancient 
times  a  chapel^  which  was  granted  by  Edward  the  second  to 
the  friars  C«irmelttes,  to  whose  monastery  it  was  adjoining. 
Here  also  the  court  of  the  honour  of  Peverel  was  held  for  some 
centuries^  but  now  removed  to  Basfbrd. 

The  present  edifice  is  light,  neat,  and  elegant,  both  w  ithtn 
and  without,  and  judiciously  and  tastefully  executed  in  imita- 
tion  of  the  Gothic  style*  under  the  superintendance  of  Mr. 
Strelton  of  Lenton  priory,  whose  taste  and  research  as  an  anti- 
quary are  fully  displayed  by  his  choice  of  style  and  selection 
of  ornaments.  The  inside  is  peculiarly  neat  and  comfortable, 
without  losing  any  thing  of  its  Gothic  atr;  and  ihe  light  support 
of  the  galleries,  together  with  the  execution  of  the  pulpit  and 

reading 


HOTTIttOHAWSHlRB* 


Its 


reading  desk>  are  in  Ihemsdves  complete  modela  for  future 
architects. 

If  it  has  any  defect  it  h  in  the  lownes^«  of  the  tower,  which 
we  believe  proceeds  from  a  lowness  in  the  subscription  purse. 
By  the  act  of  Purliameiit  for  its  establmhment,  the  subscribers 
have  at  present  the  presentatiun  in  ihoir  own  haiid^t^  but  it  iJ 
in  a  certain  (tme  to  devolve  to  the  crown* 

In  the  town  of  Nottitighara,  there  were  formerly  seireral 
REHCiots  Foundations.  LeJand  says,  "there  hath  been  3 
hou^s  of  frereSf  as  I  remember,  whereof  2  stoode  toward  the 
weste  of  the  towiie,  and  not  far  from  the  cagteHe/' 

The  Grey  Fkurs  were  placed  in  the  Broadmarsh  not  far 
from  the  castle.  The  bouse  was  founded  by  Henry  the  third 
in  1350,  and  granted  at  the  dissolution  to  Thomas  Heneage.  It 
is  now  the  scite  of  a  brewery. 

The  White  Friars,  or  Carmelites,  had  a  house  in  St. Nicholas 
parish.  It  was  founded  by  Reginald  lord  Grey  de  Wilton*  and 
Sir  John  Shirley,  Knt.  and  granted  by  Henry  the  eighth  to 
James  Sturley. 

The  HousR  of  St«  Johns  belonging  to  the  knights  of  Jerti* 
salem^  stood  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  town. 

St.  Leonard's  Hospital  for  Lepers,  was  also  somewhere  on 
thA  eastern  side  :  it  had  the  privilege  of  cutting  the  dead  wood 
in  the  forest  of  Nottingham. 

St,  Mary's  Cell,  tvc  are  told  by  Tanner  in  the  Not,  Mon. 
was  founded  in  the  reign  of  Henry  the  third  for  two  monks  in 
the  chapel  of  St*  Mary  in  the  rock  under  the  castle. 

St*  Sepulchre's  was  a  brotherhood  in  the  reign  of  Henry 
the  third:  and  a  College  of  Secular  priests  wa*  once  existing 
in  the  castle,* 

As 


•  Dcring  it  very  copious  in  hU  detail  of  the  ?ariau»  rules  of  the««  diffetw 
f  lit  ordrrs  ;  wc  iball  select  one  or  twa  to  exemplify  the  chtutity  &nd  cUatdi* 
nea  Qi  the  ihodIs,  tw«  firtoei  with  which  we  belif  ve  llioy  ti«Ter  baire  beco 
ettraardinarily  gided. 


H6 


K  OTT t  If  G  H  A  lif  S  tf  t  R  E< 


*  As  Nottingham  has  but  three  parish  churches  which  have 
long  been  inadequate  to  the  inoreased  population,  it  is  not  sor* 
prizing  that  it  should  contain  such  a  number  of  Dissenting  and 
Sectarian  Places  of  Wonsntp. 

The  High  P/vvf.mfnt  Meeting   is   established  by  a  number  ' 
of  the  moiii  rei^pectable  inhabitants  of  the  town,  and  the  build- 
ing itself  is  a  handsome  fit|uare  of  brick,  and  of  modern  erection* 
It  is  spacious,  light,  nml  utry ;  and  acknowledges  the  Pt^byie^y 
Hon  principles  and  form  of  wurship. 

The  Castlegate  Meeting  is  nearly  on  the  same  principle^H 
the  coogregation  being  Calvinists,  and  pretty  nuineroos;  tndi 
they  have  had  the  good  sense  !o  make  their  place  of  worship 
airy  and  commodious,  the  want  of  which  good  and  neressarjT  j 
qualities  wc  believe  often  tends  to  fill  Sectarian  Chapels  with^ 
visitors  who  would  otherwise  have  adhered  to  the  Established^ 
Church.* 

The  Gekeral  Baptists  arc  not  very  numerous;  their  place 
of  %vorship  was  originally  a  Methodist  chapelt  and  is  a  smaU»'^ 
liut  neat,  octagon  building. 

The  Bapttzisg  Calvinists  are  more  numerous  ;  and  have  9} 
spacious,  well  lighted,  comfortable  place  of  meeting  near  CoU 
iin's  IlospiiaL 

Close  to  it,  and  almost  adjoining  the  north  east  side  of  Col*  j 
lin*s   Hospital,  is   the  very   neat  and    simple  meeting  of  thi 
QuAKEns. 

BuH 

With  respect  In  ifie  first,  It  was  ohJainrd,  **  ttiil  no  brntLer  alone  risit  a  j 
sister,  but  in   cumpiinTi  and   that  by  pcrmi^ision,  »nd  fof  edtRcation  ;"  inj^ 
that  "  none  w«r^  to  kiss  the  li^is  *if  any  woman."      With  mi^rct  to  thu  latttr* 
Tirtue,  there  were  xha  rcmarkabte  <tirectiuii*i  **  rhat  t}iejf  be  B«it  too  ni6«  in 
fvasbmg  tbeir  clothes,"  und  that  "  ihej  d^ire  kill  no  vermiiii  nor  l^con  fea- 
ther beds-'*  and  k   was  further   ordered,  thai  "if  the  abbot  enjojn  t<>  an f 
monk  mjidiiihilliUi,  he  musf,  with  reference  and  lubmiisimi,  excuse  hit  ioi* 
bility  ;  if  the  abbot  urge  !(,  he  most  obfy,  and  trtivt  lo  God't  assistance.^'  *  I 

•  We  may  almost  Bay  Unit  Ihii  is  prnvri  in  the  njetropolis,  wlierethe  com* 
f«>rtablc  chupeJs  belongiiig  tn  the  church  of  England  arc  tlwa^'s  well  filled, 
and  The  parhh  ehuft^ii  dvicrlcd. 


But  the  most  tiumerouaof  all  the  Prott;Uant  sectaries  ar 
Wesleyan  METHODrsrs,  who  have  anew  place  of  meeting  in 
Hockley  Sircei*     It  is  large,  and  always  wtfll  attended. 

The  Ro^AM  Catholics  ha^e  ahii  a  smu II  chapel  in  Storey 
Slreer»  King*s  Place;  b«t  they  are  nut  very  numerous. 

There  W15  also  lornierly  &  &ect  of  Phitadtipkians,  who  met 
in  the  brew  house  yard«  and  whom  Dr*  Thorototi  calls  a  set  of 
fanatics*  Their  founder  was  a  Dutch  Anabaptist,  and  certainly 
a  false  prophet ;  fur  he  boasted  that  he  would  rise  in  three  day 4 
after  ht«  death  which  happened  in  li>56;  which  not  taking  place, 
many  of  hia  followers  immediately  disowned  hm  doctrines. 

The  Public  Cuahities,  both  ancient  and  modem,  are  very 
numeroust  J  and  the  latter  are  upon  a  very  extensive  scale. 

pLUMTBE'«i  Hospital  was  founded  by  John  Plumtre^  an  ixi- 
habitattt  of  Nottlnghaui*  sometime  about  the  IGth  of  Richard 
the  second^  having  obtained  the  king's  leave  to  erect  an  hospital 
■  at  the  bridge  end  for  two  chaplains,  whereof  one  was  to  be 
ma«ler«  and  13  poor  old  widowsi  to  the  honour  of  the  annuncia- 
tioti  of  the  bkised  Virgin.  Little  of  the  first  building  is,  we 
believe*  now  in  existence,  yet  mucH  of  what  remains  is  of  con* 
«iiderable  jnliquity^  and  seems  of  Elizabeth's  time,  or  a  little 

I  before.  It  has  a  centre  with  ballustrade  on  top,  tvv^o  wings  or 
endi  of  semi-circular  isigzag  outline  in  the  roof,  and  the  win* 
dow*  of  plain  stone  work. 
In  1751  a  dei»cendant  of  the  onG^inal  founder  added  four  new 
tenements;  and  two  year*  atlerwaids  his  njn  repaired  tho  old 
tHiilding,  added  two  new  tenemetkts  and  thus  completed  the 
original  benevolent  plan.  The  apartmenta  are  clean  and  com- 
fortable^ the  pensioners  receive  fil'leen  shillings  each  per 
month,  a  ion  of  coals  and  a  new  gown  per  annum  ',  and  the 
presentation  is  still  m  the  Plumtre  family. 

Collin's  Hospital  is  a  plain  brick  elevation  of  two  stories, 
with  fourteen  wlndovrs  in  each  row  in  front*  a  doorway  of  cut 
£toue  with  niche  and  ornaments  over  it.    It  stands  in  Friar  Lane, 


» 


123 


NOTTtKOtliLllSfltae* 


surroundet]  by  a  small  court  and  low  brick  wait;  and  is  really 
an  ornament  to  that  part  of  the  town. 

It  was  founded  by  the  will  of  Mr.  Abel  Collin  in  I70i  far  the 
reception  of  2^  poor  men  and  womeoj  each  having  two  com- 
fortable apartments  and  two  shillings  per  week^  with  a  ton  and 
a  half  of  coals  per  annum* 

Of  other  charities  of  an  old  standings  our  limits  will  €>tilj 
permit  uh  to  name  Willoochby's  Hospital  in  the  Fishcrgatc; 
Gregory's  Hospital  in  Houndsgate;  Woolley*s  Beadbousi 
in  Becklane  ;  Handleys  Hospital  in  Stoney  Street ;  Bilby's 
Alms  Houses  in  Coal-pit  Lane;  Labourers*  Hospital  on  Toll- 
house Hill;  Wabsargate  Hqspital,  &c.»  the  whole  of  whicli 
afford  relief  to  upwards  of  70  poor  and  InBrm  individuals 
sides  these  there  are  the  Pcckknm  and  Covcniry  charities^ 
well  as  several  others,  which,  having  no  importance  beyond 
their  immediate  locality,  do  not  require  any  particular  illuftrt- 
tion  here. 

The  Workhouses  are  in  number  equal  to  the  parish esj 
are  all  upon  a  very  clean  and  commodious  scale:  and  it  is  bi 
justice  to  the  town  at  targe  to  say  that  e?ery  benevolent  plaa 
or  regiilation  for  the  comfort  of  their  helpless  inmates  is  strictly^^ 
attended  to,  and  generally  followed  by  beneficial  coinse* 
quences. 

The  size  of  the  parkh  of  St^  Mar^^s,  now  so  very  populous 
calls  perhaps  for  some  further  additions  to  its  own ;  but  those  who 
have  the  management  of  it  have  fully  availod  themselves  aflU 
animadversions  of  Eden,  who,  in  his  Slat©  of  the  Poor  written  in 
1795,  noticed  that  this  workhouse  was  surrounded  by  other 
buildings,  most  of  which  were  much  higher  than  it ;  so  as  com- 
pletely to  obstruct  the  free  pai>sage  of  air. 

In  this  parish  also  we  understand  from  the  same  author  that 

several  small  donations,  amounting    in  the  whole  to  about  80/, 

per  annum,  are  disitributed  to  fit  objectst  not  receiving  paro« 

chial  as&iMance. 

Bui  one  of  the  greatest  glories  of  Nottingham,  is  itsG£ifStiU. 

Il«FIRlCAEiri 


on* 
licii^^ 

»»i4        I 


KOTTtNGHAMSUIftE. 


129 


I 


iMPfRMAiiY^  a  most  Spacious,  and  indeed  eleganl  buildings 
and  ngble  institution,  which,  as  Throsby  ob-^erves^  takes  under 

its  healing  wlngji,  the  sick,  poor,  and  lame,  from  any  county  or 
district ;  shedding  a  most  comfortable  inilueiice  around  ;  and 
forming  a  splendid  ornament  to  the  town« 

The  first  stone  was  laid  on  the  12th  of  February  1781,  at  the 
ftouth  east  butment,  accompanied  by  a  series  of  silver  coins  of 
ihe  present  reign,  and  with  a  brass  plate  whose  inscription  at 
some  di.Htant  day  may  prove,  to  future  antiquaries,  the  bcne^o* 
Icnce  of  Englishmen  io  the  18th  and  I9tb  centuries : 

"  General  Hospital  near  Nottingham  ;  open  to  ihe  SJck 
and  Poor  of  any  Country,  The  Corporation  gave  the 
ground  for  the  said  Hospital/' 

On  digging  for  the  foundation,  some  human  bones  were 
found  with  a  sword  and  target,  broken  spears,  &c. 

The  building  consists  of  a  centre,  two  advancing  wings,  and 
two  ends  ;  it  has  thirteen  windows  in  a  range,  and  is  two  storiea 
high;  and  from  the  south  east  front  a  most  extensive  prospect 
of  the  vale  of  Btilvoir  presents  itself*  It  is  most  airily  situated 
on  all  sides,  and  is  surrounded  with  pleasant  walks  and 
gardens  ;  for  which  the  duke  of  Newcastle  benevolently 
gave  some  ground  in  addition  to  that  presented  by  the  cor- 
poration. 

It  has  been  observed  that  this  hospital  may  boast  of  two 
things:  first,  of  being  at)  eleemosynary  asylum  to  the  indigent 
and  impotent ;  and,  secondly,  that  it  is  built  upon  the  identical 
spot,  (or  near  to  it,)  on  which  the  unfortunate  Charles  first  fixed 
his  royal  standard;  but  after  a  very  careful  survey  and  exam- 
ination, for  which  we  were  indebted  to  the  polite  attention  of 
Mr*  Stretton  the  architect^  and  to  the  laudable  pride  of  the 
matron  who  was  anxious  to  exhibit  every  thing  concerning  it, 
we  may  fairly  say  that  this  benevolent  and  liberal  institution 
has  much  more  to  boast  o£ 

At  present  there  are  considerable  additions  making  to  itj  by 
which  two  spacious  and  airy  day  rooms,  four  additional  wards. 

Vol*  XIL  1  a  more 


i» 


HOTTIVGHAHSHIRE* 


ft  more  com m (idiotic  «hop  and   store  room,  aad  sevemi  other 
conveniences^  will  be  obtaine<).* 

In  these  additions,  many  very  useful  improvements  are  tak- 
ing place,  particularly  in  the  mode  of  ventilaiion  and  of  Use 
conveyance  of  water  j  botb  of  which  are  well  worthy  the  ex- 
amination of  persons  superintending  similar  establishmenU^  Of 
indeed  any  buildings  on  an  extensive  scale^  being  both  Bie- 
cbanically  and  philosophically  novel  and  correct,  Tbcinlrr- 
tial  cleanliness  is  highly  deserving  nf  praise  ;  and  the  dii^posi- 
ticiii  of  the  dispensary,  and  other  offices,  is  a  pattern  for  ail 
iustitutiotis  of  this  nature. 

The  Nobility  and  Gentry  of  the  county  and  town  have  come 
forward  in  the  handsomest  mamier  to  execute  the  Tarious  of- 
fices; and  the  Medical  gentlemen  all  contribute  their  services 
graluitou<^ly.  The  benefactions,  legacies,  and  annual  subscript 
tiuns,  are  on  a  very  handsome  scale  ;  and  it  is  worth  notice  that 
the  annual  esepensep  upon  a  tair  principle,  can  never  well  ex> 
cced  the  annual  income  ;  for  every  subscriber  can  only  recom^ 
mend  a  certain  number  of  patients  in  proportion  to  his  subscript 
tion,  though  the  scale  of  recommendation  is  yery  liberal,  si 
subscribers  of  two  guineas  annually  can  recommend  two  in- 
patients, and  three  out-patients,  in  the  course  of  a  vr;ir ;  and 
these  may  he  from  any  distant  county,  even  if  brought  here 
liierely  for  the  purpose  of  cure. 

The  benefactions  have  already  been  very  numerous:  aroongi* 
which  one  generous  tfn^;iou?ft  individual  subscribed  the  lium  of 
UHMMIL  stock,  e^inal  to  6337/.  sterling  If 

At  the  close  of  the  year  ending  March  1811,  the  benefac 
lions  amounted  to  14,785/.;  the  legacies  to  44i3/. ;  and  the 

c 


#  Vide  Genera]  Report  fnr  tail. 

I  Other  bene  faction  a  were,  fruui  Mn.    £.  Dutiibiiiige  of  W(K>dbi>r^ig(t| 

moot ,  a  Iricrid  4001;   Diike  ot  NewcaMk',  ond  Jwlm  Morrii,  tsq   of  Jjut' 

utighiitii  900L  €»eli  ]  Mtid   Dsanj  of  f  00/.  sod   liXfl.  frcnn*  tite  tietfrhbourritg 

Mobility  and  Geutrj.      Tbcre  bate  iIm  been  seircfd  legacies  of^OOL;  t^ 


e  t^^J 

i 


r 


HOTTlKGnAlASHlRft* 


CcipU  in  that  ye^r,  incltKling  1 000/.  balance,  and  947/,  annual 
Bobscriptlonf^  amounted  to  SS2^L 

In  February  1813,  there  were  49  in-patients,  ami  309  out- 
patients, then  on  the  hospital  books :  but  the  total  number  re- 
lieved, from  the  first  opening  up  to  March  1811,  were  9525  in- 
jpaiients,  ^4401  ouUpaltents,  making  Si  total  of  33926  !  !  ! 
I  The  Lunatic  AsvurMj  both  for  paupers,  and  for  those  who 
pan  pay  for  admi&sion,  is  upon  a  very  considerable  scale,  and 
Is  amongst  the  first  completed  under  the  act  of  Parliament ; 
having  been  opened  for  admii^sion  on  the  12th  of  February  of 
Ihe  present  year  (ISI^)  when  nine  were  admitted  from  Not- 
tingham, and  there  were  also  52  recommendations  of  cases  on 
,the  books. 

This  building  which  is  erected  upon  an  airy  acitein  the  pa- 
lish of  Sneinton,  at  a  very  short  distance  from  the  town,  and 
rtaced  fto  as  to  form  an  ornamental  object,  has  been  very  justly 
id  to  possess  a  decided  superiority  in  iL<»  general  design,  and 
the  distribution  of  its  arrangement,  over  any  other  buitding 
bf  the  same  nature  yet   established.      It  h  built  on  land  pur* 
uebased   by  the  voluntary  subscribers  for  that  purpose,  and  Its 
general  plan  is  to  provide  separate  and  diMinct  wards  for  male 
Ind  female  lunatics,  distributed  into  classes;  as  well  as  for  the 
convalescents  and    iucurables;  and  also    separate  and  distinct 
itiring  grounds  for  the  mate  and  female  convalescents* 
b   This  plan  has  been   completely  executed,  by  a  buiidrng  of 
kve  Rtories  in   height,  two  of  which  are  in  the  basement,  but 
Motficiently  light  and  airy  for  every  purpose  of  health  and  coin- 
l^ort.      Each  story  has  a  long  and   airy  corridore,  which  leads 
lo  each  range  of  cell?,  airy,  cool,  ami  corafurlable,  and  afford- 
fig  accommodation  for  fifty-six  patients.      The  style  of  archi^ 
cture    is    extremely  plain ;  yet    the    front   elevation  may  be 
kinsidered  suiiictently  handsome  lo  render  it  an  object  of  beau- 
y  from  any  point  of  view. 

In  order  for  it*  support,  much  has  already  been  done  by  vo- 
luntary contribution  J  but  much  yet  remains  to  be  done,  not 

I  f  only 


im 


)lOTTI¥GnAlf»IIiEl* 


arc       I 


only  to  pay  off  the  debt  already  contracted,  of  which  abou^ 
4700L  was  borrowed  from  the  funds  of  the  General  InErmary^ 
but  also  for  its  aunual  support  and  expenditure, 

Tlie   patients   form  three  classes ;  persons  who  can  pay  fot 
thetr  care  and  maintenance  in  proportion  to  their  ability;  per- 
sons admitted  on  the  paymtiit  of  very  small  soms;  and  pau 
pers,  for  whom  a  certain  rate  shall  be  paid  by  the  county* 

The  justicet  of  the  county*  and  also  of  Nottingham,  bene' 
factors  of  20  guineas,  and  annual  subscribers  of  2  guineas,  arc 
^vernors  ^  and  all  elections  of  officers,  &c*  are  to  be  done  by 
ballot. 

The  dc/nationsin  1811  amounted  to  1764^.:  legacies  ta  2487t* 
aodthe  annual  subscriptions  to  about  350/* 

The  Public  Schools  in  Nottingham  are  fiilly  siifljcient  in 
number,  for  the  sixe  of  the  town;  and  from  the  recent  judi- 
cious regulations  which  have  taken  place  in  several  instances, 
they  are  likely  in  future  to  answer  every  benevolent  purpose 
for  which  they  were  iounded. 

The  Free  Gbammah  School  wa»  founded  by  Agnes  Mellors 
in  1M3,  a  vowess,  often  called  Lady  Mellors,  but  only  the 
widow  of  a  wealthy  bell-founder  of  Nottingham**  Thii 
school,  which  is  in  the  parish  of  St,  Mary's,  bad  almost  fallen 
into  disuse,  as  the  knowledge  of  Latin  is  no  longer  necessary  to 
enable  a  man  to  say  his  pra^/era,  which  was  the  case  in  the  day^ 
of  Catholicism  when  this  school  wa*  founded,  though  but  a 
very  few  years  before  the  Beformation;  of  course,  few  schobr»^ 
were  in  the  habit  of  attending ;  but  by  a  recent  and  judicious- 
regolatiou  of  the  corporation,  in  1807,  sixty  boys  are  now  to 
be  admitted  and  taught  not  only  Greek  and  Latin,  and  ihi 
classics,  but  also  English,  writing,  and  arithmetic,  gratis, 

Tliere  is  also  an  excellent  Charity  School,  a  neat  litil« 
building,  clean  and  comfortable,  and  ornamented  in  the  front: 
with  the  uEual  statues  of  a  boy  and  girl  of  the  foundation.  Ji 
h  airily  situated  in  the  High  Pavement,  on  a  piece  of  ground 

gixtu 
m  Deriag^  p.  154. 


MOTTIKCHAMSHIRB. 


ISt 


I 


I 

I 


I 


Ipvea  by  a  bencvolenl  attorney,  a  Mr.  William  Thorpe.  It  it 
entirety  supported  by  voluntary  coiitribtitioo>  and  maintains 
fifty  poor  children  of  both  sexes,  who  are  instructed  in  religion* 
and  in  English  reading-  Forty  of  these  are  clothed  in  the  blue 
coat  costume,  and  the  whole  of  them  have  an  air  of  health  and 
happiness. 

There  are  several  other  schools  supported  on  liberal  princi* 
pies  ;  ose  in  St.  Mary's  parish  educates  thirty  poor  children  ; 
Qjiother  in  the  same  parish,  supported  by  a  private  society^  haft 
Jong  been  established  for  the  edtjcation  of  sixteen ;  the  Protes* 
tani  Dissenters  support  one  for  the  poor  children  of  their  own 
persuasion,  who  are  clothed  and  plainly  educated;  and  a  Church 
of  England  Sundaj/  School  has  been  for  some  time  in  existence, 
whose  receipts  in  1811  amounted  to  \^7L 

The  Sunday  Sckoots  in  Nottingham,  supported  by  all  classes, 
are,  indeed,  on  a  very  extent ive  scale,  though  at  a  small  ex- 
pense, as  tbe  yoiiBg  people  of  each  persuasion^  and  in  very 
respectable  situations  in  life^  dedicate  themselves  sedulously  to 
the  education  of  the  children,  who  amount  to  upwards  of  1500 
of  each  sex,  or  about  3000  in  the  whole. 

The  County  Hall  was,  in  Dering's  time  in  the  middle  of  the 
last  century,  a  ruinous  disgraceful  building.  This,  however, 
has  been  replaced  by  a  very  commodious  and  handsome  edifice 
erected  by  t^e  county  in  1770»  on  the  High  Pavement,  and  ia 
the  immediate  vicinity  of  St*  Mary's  churcJi.  The  ground  oa 
which  it  stands  was  expressly  excepted  from  the  jurisdiction  of 
the  town  by  the  charier  of  Henry  the  sixth,  and  still  continues 
so.  It  has  an  exten^ve  ball  with  two  convenient  courts,  and 
all  the  neC'e<^iiary  apartments  for  the  accommodation  of  the 
judges,  j«ry  rooms,  &c. ;  and  is  ornamented  with  some  old 
standards  of  the  duke  of  Kingston's  light  horse,  in  the  rebellion 
i*f  1745,  and  with  pictures  of  their  present  Majesties  given  by 
tlie  earl  of  Manvers. 

Tbe  Town  Haul,  for  the  town  and  county  of  the  town  of 
^ottingham^  is  a  large  building  three   stories  high,  with  the 

I  n  towtt 


154 


¥OTTIirGllAlfftHIEE 


town  prison  on  ihe  ground  floor^  and  a  large  fiight  of  st^fis  H 
one  end,  leading  to  the  first  floor,  co  mm  odiously  and  haDd«> 
some  I  y  fitted  up  for  the  various  necessary  purposes.  It  stands 
near  the  scite  of  the  old  Weekday  Crosa* 

In   181 1 »  the   annual  statement  of  the   county  rate  of  lh«     , 
county  and  town  of  Nottingham  was  2G3l/*^  which  wa»  all  ex* 
pended,  except  a  small  balance  of  177f* 

The  County  Piiison,  which  formerly  was  under  the  andcm 
county  balh  i^  now  behind  it;  and,  being  on  the  slope  of  the 
rock  on  its  southern  face^  is  not  only  airily  situated,  but  liai 
aliio  some  very  exfcensiTe  yicws  from  its  upper  apartments^  from 
one  of  whjch^  some  years  ago,  a  prisoner  jumped  in  hopes  of 
escaping,  though  at  a  height  of  70  feet.  This  gaol  is  clean,  and 
airy;  and,  we  understand,  under  excellent  modern  regulations; 
which  were  certainly  very  necessar\%  when  we  consider  its 
state  when  the  benevolent  Howard  was  collecting  his  materials 
Ibr  a  History  of  the  Prisons  in  England.  There  are  some  small 
benefactions  existing  for  the  relief  of  poor  debtors ;  but,  in  Mr* 
Howard's  time,  their  principal  relief  was  from  a  collection 
raised  by  a  person  employed  to  go  round  the  country  at  Cbrist-^ 
vmA,  which  amounted  at  that  time  to  about  S5/.  Mr.  Howard 
complained  much  of  a  man  who,  in  the  year  1776,  having  ob* 
taiued  hb  Majesty's  pardon,  was  nevertheless  detained  in  gaol 
for  a  considerable  time  for  the  paltry  sum  of  about  fifty  shillings 
for  ofiice  and  gaol  fees, 

TheToWiS  and  County  Gaol  is  also  as  commodiotts  a^  cir-  i 
cumstances  will  admit  oft  though  much  is  yet  wanted  to  rendeff 
it  complete^  At  Mr.  Howard's  first  visit,  he  complained  mucl^^  i 
of  the  stale  of  its  dungeons  and  other  rooms;  but  at  his  second^ 
considerable  improvements  had  taken  place.  There  is  now  «4 
total  separation  of  Felons  and  Debtors;  and  there  is  a  commo-^ 
dious  bath,  which  is  extremely  conducive  to  the  health  amtffl 
cleanliness  of  the  unfortunates  confined  here.  A  small  sum  i^^ 
annuiilly  collected  in  the  town  for  the  relief  of  poor  debtors,  j 
The  Town  BiuDttW£Lij  which  stands  in  St«  John's  Street,  ha^i 


NOTTIHORAUSaiRB. 


iSi 


I 


I 


I 


Also  began  to  derive  some  benefib  from  the  liberal  active  phi- 
Uathropy  of  the  present  day.  Indeed  it  is  to  be  boped  that  in 
a  few  years,  the  general  melioration  of  all  places  of  confine* 
nien^  as  far  as  is  consistent  with  security^  wilt  caufie  Mr*  Flow- 
ard's  Aorri^/c,  yet  unfortunately  too  accurate,  statement,  to  be 
considered  as  a  kind  of  Romance,  It  never  can  be  too  deeply 
impressed  upon  the  minds  of  all  ibose  who  have  any  power  or 
superintendance  over  those  places,  that  the  separation  nf  the 
sexes,  the  separation  of  yonng  from  hardened  onfeiK!eri>»  and 
the  separation  of  debtor-j  from  felons,  are  objects  bi>tli  of  thi? 
greatest  physical  and  moral  importance.  When  all  these  things 
are  sufficienily  attended  to,  with  the  addition  of  wbole.Home 
food,  clean  lodging,  airy  exercising  grounds,  good  sewers,  and 
a  supply  of  water,  with  good  workshops  and  incitements  to  in- 
dustry, Mill  will  our  prisons  be  places  of  punishment  to  tho^^ 
unhappily  confined  in  tbem;  and  with  these  additions  they  aie 
also  more  likely  to  become  places  of  amendment. 

The  Marjcet  Place  of  Nottingham  has  long  been  admired. 
Even  in  the  reign  of  Henry  tb<^  eighth.  Lei  and  says,  '*  the  Mar- 
ket place  and  streate,  both  for  the  buildings  on  the  side  ol  it/ 
for  the  very  great  wideness  of  this  streete,  and  the  clearie  pav- 
ing of  it,  is  the  most  fairest  without  exception  of  all  England;" 
and  it  is  now  certainly  one  of  the  most  spacious  in  the  hing- 
dloDi^  surroonded  with  excellent  houses,  and  having  every  ac* 
commodation  for  its  various  purposes.  At  the  upper  end  of  it 
formerly  fttood  the  Mali  Crott ;  but  that,  with  the  other  crosses^, 
is  now  down, 

ll  is  now  tJie  place  for  the  two  weekly  markets  on  Wednes- 
day and  Saturday ;  on  the  former  of  these  days  the  ancient 
beast  market  from  St.  Peter's  is  held  liere  ;  but  on  the  Saturdays, 
irhich  are  the  principal  days,  the  mayor  ami  corporation  have 
yery  judiciously  ordered  tije  cattle  market  lo  be  held  on  another 
spot. 

The  supply  of  this  market^ jiarticularly  on  Saturday,  is  very 
abundant  in  every  necessary  of  life ;  but  the  prices  are  consi* 

1  4  dered 


us 


yOTTIVGHAMSBIUl* 


I  dered  as  rather  extraTsgant  in  many  instances*  and  rery  Imr  in- 
deed above  that  scale  which  Bering  has  giren  os  m  hb  book : 
and  nothing  can  be  more  amosing  or  interesting  ta  a  stranger 
^  than  to  go  through  this  market,  and  observe  the  extraordinary 
neatness  and  regularity  of  those  who  have  brooght  thetr  ▼arioos 
articles  for  sale  ;  bat  more  partlcolarly  to  see  the  3*oiing  ^eniales 
of  the  town,  many  of  them  of  the  most  respectable  familtea  in 
the  place,  who  are  not  ashamed  to  put  on  their  markeiiog  i 
dress,  and,  with  their  little  baskets,  to  make  such  purchases  as| 
they  can  conreniently  carry.  It  is  not  unfair  eitlier  to  remark* 
that  the  stranger  cannot  fail  to  be  struck  with  the  neatness  and 
beauty,  which  he  will  meet  at  eveiy  step,  and  that  in  a  greater 
proportion  than  the  Editor  of  these  sheets  recollects  ever  lo 
lave  met  with  in  any  other  town,  even  where  they  have  been 
famed  for  the  charms  of  the  sex. 

The  New  Exchange  stands  at  the  east  end  of  the  Markel^j 
place  ;  it  is  a  very  handsome  brick  building  of  iour  stnrinsin 
height,  erected  by  the  corporation  in  the  early  part  of  the  lasij 
century,  of  123  feet  in  length,  and  the  front  supported  by  ; 
range  of  stone  pillars  forming  a  spacious  open  parade,  with  the 
Shambles  partly  under,  and  partly  behind  it;  which,  howevcrpj 
are  so  insufTicienl  for  the  demand  on  market  dayii,  that  BOstallt 
are  sometimes  set  out  in  the   Market  place,  or  rather  in  the 
Smithy  Roio,      It   was   intended  at  first  to  ornament  the  fronton 
with   the   statues  of  George  the  firsts  and  the  then  Prince  and^^ 
Princess  of  Wales ;  but  the  niches  still  remain  untenanted.  There 
is,  however,  a  well  executed  figure  of  Justice  on  ihe  top.    The 
apartments  above  stairs  are  airy  and  spacious^and  neatly,  though 
plainly,  fitted  up  for  public  purposes  and  various  corporatioii|^| 
and  election  uses :  there  \v^s  also  been  for  some  lime  a  subscrip-       - 
tion  news  room  fitted  up  in  one  of  them,  called  the  Exchange^^ 
HaJK  ^ 

The  Fairs  at  Nottingham  are  three  annually  ;  these  we  be- 
lieve take  place  on  the  seventh  ol'  March,  the  second  and  third  af^_ 
Aprilf  and  the  second  of  October  called  Gootie  fair.      All  o^^ 
8  these 


I 


I 


tkese  are  for  cattle  and  hor^s,  and  the  latter  also  particularly 
tor  cheese-* 

The  Tr\de  and  Manufactures  of  Nottingham  have  long 
been  very  extensive.  Here  are  several  mills  for  spinntn^silk 
and  cotton,  and  for  twisting^  do;  silk  mills  worked  by  hordes; 
lace  workers;  stocking  wt*avers  ;  a  whitt*  trad  work  ;  a  foutidery 
for  cast  iron  ware  from  Ibe  pigs  brougiit  from  CoalhTook  dale; 
dyinj^  and  bleach  works;  British  lace  by  framework;  brew- 
eries; malthouseii;  tanneriesi  &c.  The  glasshouses,  however, 
which  formerly  existed  are  now  laid  aside  ;  and  the  pottery  is 
also  very  triflings 

Great  changes  have  at  difTerent  times  taken  p!ace  with  re- 
spect to  the  trade  of  this  town;  and  it  is  a  curious  fact  that  lit- 
lie  more  than  a  century  ago,  though  then  a  manufacturing 
place,  it  was  dependent  upon  the  neighbouring  towns,  and 
even  villages,  for  grocery,  drapery,  &:c»  though  it  is  now  iho 
general  depot  for  a  very  extensive  neighbourho<>d.  Much  of 
its  modern  im prove m en t  must,  however,  be  dated  from  even  so 
late  a  period  as  that  in  which  its  water  communications  were 
improved  by  the  various  cnta  in  its  vicinity. 

It  is  said  that,  as  early  as  the  commencement  of  the  twelfth 
century,  ihe  Dyeing  Thaue  was  an  object  of  importance  to 
Nottingham  ;  but  it  declined  in  the  reign  of  Mary,  and  15;  now 
scarcely  worth  mentioning,  though  so  long  a  source  of  opu- 
lence and  independence  to  many  families  in  the  place. 

The  Stocking  Ma su factory  seems  lo  have  begun  to  fill  up 
its  place  soon  after^  as  the  stocking  frame  was  invented  in  the 
reign  of  Elizabeth ;  yet,  m  1641,  there  were  only  two  frame 
work  kniiters  in  Nottingham. 

The  usefulness  and  simplicity  of  the  present  machines  are 
lltonishing;  and  it  is  well  known,  that  it  was  invented  by  WiU 

liam 

•The  AgTiciiltural  Survey  »aj?,  that  the  foir  on  the  second  of  April  b 
moveablf ,  if  it  falU  on  tlic  Monilay  after  Pdm  Suaduj  ,  and  wc  hiirc  seen  it 
stilled  fbtt  these  fairs  are  on  the  Fridiij  aflcr  Jnnuarj  13ih,  7tfi  and  Btli  ol 
Idftrcb,  Tfaoridaj  t^fgre  Eajtcr,  md  2ad,  5ft>^  «iid  4th,  of  Ocloher. 


ms 


xqttikgbamsuirb. 


Ham  Lee,  who  was  M.  A,  of  St,  John's  college  at  Camliridgej 
born  atCalverton  according  to  Thoroton,  but  at  Woodboroagh, 
a  vilb^€  about  seven  miles  distant  fiom  Notcingham,  according 
to  Der ing^s  account,  who  records  a  traditional  story  of  him  that 
he  was  heir  to  a  pretty  freehold  estate^  and  being  deeply  in 
love  with  a  young  person  to  whom  he  paid  his  addresses^  but 
whom  he  always  found  more  intent  upon  her  knitting,  than  to 
bis  wows  and  protestations^  he  was  induced  to  contrive  a  ma* 
chine*  which  should  render  the  mode  of  knitting  by  hand  en- 
^lirely  useless.  We  have,  however,  seen  it  stated  diOereotly  ; 
that  Mr.  Lee  m'asa  poor  curate,  and  married ;  and  his  wife  being 
obliged  to  occupy  herself  industriously  with  knitting,  which 
interfered  very  mucii  with  the  atientiun  necessary  to  her  fa- 
mily, he  was  prompted  to  attempt  thi;  invention  of  the  presenl 
Complex,  yet  simple,  machinery.  It  is  certain  ihal  he  or  his 
brwlUer  exhibited  the  loom  before  queen  Kliaiabeth  ;  but  his  in- 
vention being  de«piscd  in  his  native  country,  h«  went  to  France 
with  several  English  workmen,  where  he  was  patronized  by 
Henry  the  fourth.  The  murder  of  that  monarch  overturned  all 
bis  hopes  of  success ;  he  died  of  grief  and  chagrin  at  Bsris^ 
and  hh  few  surviving  workmen  returned  to  England.  After 
some  time,  a  company  was  establtstied  in  London;  but  no  trade 
«f  this  kit^t,  where  sffmli  capitals  are  suHicient,  can  possibly 
Nourish  under  a  monopoly ;  of  course  even  the  London  dealers 
ill  hosiery  bund  it  more  profilahle  to  purchase  their  goods  in 
tht:  country,  than  from  the  manufacturers  of  the  metropolis ; 
and  the  ti^de  has  thus  been  enabled,  for  manyyears^to  ^d  iti 
own  level. 

We  hEive  not  been  able  to  procure  any  recent  estimate  of  the 
number  of  frames  em jdoyed  in  this  manufacture;  but  During 
says,  tlrat  in  the  middle  of  the  bst  century,  there  wert?  !300 
en>pl<\ved  ill  Nuttingham  alone,  to  which  may  be  added  about 
400  assistant  workmen  occupied  in  making  the  various  partaof 
the  frame  niauof.tcture,  and  also  a  great  number  of  winderSj 
*lzers,ajid  scaniers,  &c,    The  nujober  at  present,  however,  nol* 

withstaiidiiig 


NOTTiiroujiMsai&s. 


159 


withstanding  the  circuinflcribed  state  of  our  cocamerce,  muat  ht 

much  greater. 

The  Bone  Lace  Trade  was  once  a  source  of  profitable  in* 
dtistry  to  a  number  of  females;  it  afterwards  declined  ;  bal  we 
believe  that  the  frame  lace  would  soon  have  enabled  us  to  rival 
the  continent  m  that  article^  had  it  not  be<:ii  fur  the  lat« 
unhappy  disturbances.  Ii  is  evident,  indeed,  that  if  the  enc* 
miea  of  England  had  it  in  thtir  power  to  stir  up  any  part  of  het 
populacei  to  i' legal  deeds,  ihis  is  one  point  to  which  ihey  would 
naturally  direct  their  attention;  ami  ii  is  not  inipossibte  that 
some  future  investigation  may  shew  that  French  inOuence  and 
corruption  were  at  the  bottom  of  these  rioti,  not  only  for  the 
pur[>oses  of  general  injury,  but  with  a  reference  to  this  branch 
of  trade  in  parllcuiar. 

The  Maltinc  Business^  as  we  have  already  noticed  under 
the  general  head  of  the  county,  has  long  been  a  source  of  pro* 
fit  to  the  town ;  indeed,  ever  since  the  introduction  of  that 
trade  into  the  kingdom,  at  the  peritjd  of  the  Norman  conquest. 
The  goodness  of  the  barley,  in  the  vale  of  Belvoir,  has  been 
stated  as  one  cause  of  the  goodness  of  the  Nottingham  malt 
and  ale,  which  even  Stukely  the  antiquary  did  not  disdain  to 
mention,  saying,  "  h  was  highly  valued  for  softness  and  plea- 
Kint  taste  ;"  much  abo  may  have  been  owing  to  the  great  depth, 
and  consequent  coolness,  of  their  ale  cellars,  many  of  them 
having  36  steps  in  depth.  Some  of  the  other  nianu factories, 
already  noted,  have  indeed  fallen  into  decay,  particularly  the 
Tanning  business ;  and  the  Iron  trade,  which,  with  the  exception 
of  a  founder y  already  mention td,  is  complelefy  removed  to 
districts  better  fitted  for  it. 

The  Population  of  Nottingham  has  been  increasing  gra* 
dually  ever  since  the  reign  of  Edward  the  Confessor,  when  the 
number  of  men  stated,  amoimted  lo  192;  and  if  we  allow  each 
man  to  have  bad  a  bouse,  and  the  whole  inhabitants  to  have 
averaged  at  5i  per  house,  the  popubtion  must  have  been  about 
1056;  excc|3t  m  this  uislance,  that^  after  the  Norman  coiiquesl, 
9  the 


im 


MOTTtSClljIMSBtBE. 


the  nomber  of  men  were  otUy  1S6»  which>at  the  same  propor* 
tion^  would  give  a  population  of  about  74B, 

It  has  been  said  thai  a  decrease  took  place  in  the  reign  of 
Henry  the  eighth ;  bat  that  is  merely  an  inference  drawn  from 
aa  act  of  Parliament  having  passed,  obliging  the  town&  of  Not- 
lingbam,  and  some  olher5»  to  repair  their  ruinous  bouses,  aoil 
bad  paremeats;  and,  therefore^  canoot  be  taken  as  an  absolute 
lact. 

The  earliest  authentic  account  we  have  of  the  population  in 
the  last  century,  is  from  Deri  a  g*  pages  IS  and  14,  where  it  ap- 
pears that  the  houses  amounted  to  18Q6,  and  the  inhabitants  to 
9790,  besides  SUO  in  workhouses,  gaols,  and  hospitals,  equal 
to  a  total  of  10,010  :  this  was  in  1739;  and  by  a  census  of  the 
birtlis  and  burials  for  the  seven  preceding  years,  tt  appears  that 
the  former  amounted  to  2G94,  the  latter  to  3*13 1,  giving  an  in- 
crease of  ti6t3,  indepetideot  of  new  comers.* 

By  another  account  taken  in  1751,  the  number  of  inhabi- 
tants b  estimated  at  10.0G1,  being  only  an  increase  of  51  in  the 
coarse  of  twelve  years. 

By  a  census  taken  in  1779^  the  parishes  were  slated  to  con- 
lain  as  follows : 

•  III  the  year  1T44,  Bering  prod ucet  several  ijutancej  of  toiigetity,  prot. 
iag  tlie  geoeral  tieatthrulae»  of  thii  town  ;  two  of  his  in.»tiiiices  may  amu^e, 

"Goody  Ry ley*  till  witfiin  tlirec  days  of  her  death,  being  in  Si.  Mary "s 
wofkhou»c,  if  ^e  was  not  p)ea&ed  with  her  usage,  wQtil4l  every  now  and 
then,  take  a  ramble  tm  foot  to  London,  where  she  had  lome  of  her  childrea 
settled  i  and  if  they  gave  her  the  least  ofFence.  »hc  would  as  readily  trot 
down  again  to  Nottiiighaia  ;  she  wa*  above  lOifyeara  ol  age/' 

After  this  ettraflrdhtaty  instance  of  an  old  woman,  whom  it  was  difftcijjl  to 
please,  ihe  doctor  adverts  to  a  lady  to  wjirtm  he  seenji  lt>  bave  paid  roorc  pet" 
lonaJ  altention,  w  he  speaks  of  her  hi  the  present  ten*e  ;  thi"*  was  •*  Goody 
Gedling,  without  Chapel  bar,"  who,  necording  to  his  observatian»,  "sella 
ak,  walks  about,  brews  herself,  and  spins,  m  ertimifl^  nimbU  ttntgntd,  and 
tias  a  Toi-ce  very  ihrill;  by  her  cotintt^uaiice  oQe  wauld  judge  ber  not  to  bt 
aboTC  70.  !'• 


yoTTINGHlMSlIIILE.  141 

HnmiCM*    Families.  SouU, 

St.  Mary's ,.. ,.2314          2584  12037 

St.  Pcler*s...„,. 446            4©7  2445 

St.  Nicholas's. .,•,.•••.•,.  431            475  2502 

firew house  Yard,  near  Uie  caiUcj  Extra-parochial  127 

3191  3556        17,711 

and  at  that,   period,  the  burials,   from  1772  to  1778  iocluslre, 
amounted  to  39<>3. 

The  return  of  1801  gave  4977  houses,  contaiomg  6707  fanii- 
Hes;  the  males  were  13729;  the  females  15132;  making  a  ge- 
neral total  of  28G61 ;  of  whom  11698  were  employed  in  trade, 
tnanu&ctures,  and  handicraft,  and  362  in  agricylture.  The 
estimate  of  the  parishes  was,  St.  Nfary's  29,654  ;  Sr,  Nicholas's 
S.415;  Sl  Peter'd  ^,739 ;  and  Extra- parochial  only  GO,  being 
only  one  half  of  the  prccedhig  census. 

By  the  returns  of  1811*  the  males  now  amount  to  15,537; 
the  females  to  lH,82(j;  making  a  total  of  34363,  or  double  the 
population  of  1779,  a  period  of  only  32  years.  It  appears, 
however,  that  there  has  been  a  decrease  both  of  baptisms  and 
burials  in  Nottinghami  during  the  last  year^  though  not  to  any 
rery  coniiderable  amount,* 

Though 

*"  TlioAe  who  chuse  to  ^peculitte  on  tlie  chancer  of  life  &nd  d«at1i  x&a^  re- 
ceive &onie  inlbrLuatiop,  by  contpftrliig  the  fnllowiog  accouniC  of  tlie  biiUii 
and  tMirinliiJittiia  CowUf  wkh  the  Aam  total  of  population  : 

McOft.  Fcmo/cf.   T^talpfBtp,    Total  of  Bur. 

St.  Mur^'d  Baptized  ..**5fB  444              967 

Burivd t%0  f99                                       579 

St.  Nicbolai's  Baptised  *  •  48  48                96 

Buried 54  dl>                                       111 

St.  PcterV  BuprLzed 56  SO                 66 

_                         Bufied 36  4»                                       te 

11^8  770 

H«re  there  is  an  etTraordi^iac;  diCerence  between  tlie  births  and  detthf, 
4nd  1(1  a  proportion  uniiBown  in  former  fimes  ]  but  m%  gorccivei  that  oo  one 


m 


HOTTrKGBAMSHIKB* 


P 


Tbciiisli  much  cif  thif  increase  must  have  arisen  from  the  in- 
crease of  commerce  an  J  maiitifactures  ;  yet  ive  imist  allow  jK)me 
merit  to  the  healthy  situation,  and  to  the  general  salubrity  of 
the  air.  By  a  sutexiieiit  kept  by  Dr»  Clarke^  of  Nottingbara, 
for  IHIO,  it  appears  that  the  thermometer  was  at  its  greatest  aU 
titude  on  the  secoBtl  of  September,  being  89"  with  an  easterly 
^vintl  j  its  greatest  ilepressiuii  on  the  20th  of  February,  being 
14**  with  the  wind  at  N.  E,  Its  greatest  variation  in  24  hours 
was  on  the  19th  and  20lh  of  February,  from  16'  to  46^. 

The  annual  mean  of  the  barometer  was  29,HS  inches;  itf 
greatest  height  being  on  the  Slat  of  December  3O^50#  the  wind 
^tN.  £.  and  its  lowest  state  on  the  19th  of  February  28.73, 
wind  at  S*W, 

There  were  in  the  year  269  dry,  and  96  wet  days ;  the  great* 
est  quantity  of  rain  falling  in  July,  equal  to  3,85  inches^  and 
the  smallest  quaniity  in  SepLemberi  only  0,62  inches;  the 
total  (juanl it y,  during  the  year,  23,15  inches. 

There 

%ri!l  be  at  a  fois  to  account  for  k,  after  readmg  iKib  followkig  ststement  from 
.1  recptil  per'iodiciil  wot  It, 

In  IBIO  an  epidemic  iinnll  pox  rtged  nC  NottingH«ini  450  had  tbe  infee* 
lion  natarallyj  of  whom  151  died  ^  20  children  were  UiocuUted  with  the  Vi- 
lioloui  mutter,  of  whom  1  died. 

During  the  eight  months  that  this  eptderaic  wni  in  all  its  virulence^  lOtt 
were  vaccinated,  86  of  who<i]  had  been  expo-^cd  to  the  iraholaus  iafectioil 
some  days  preirioiis  to  vnccinailon.  Of  ihne  B6,  tbere  were  S^  who  escaped 
Ihe  imall  pox  totaltj ;  on  46  of  tim  Dumber  the  sm nil  pox  and  cow  pox  acted 
together  at  the  siine  time]  hut,  in  all  thetc  cases,  the  »roall  pox  was  mild.  In 
»even  only  tbe  cow  pox  fuiled  of  effect,  and  ihc  epidemic  proceeded  as  u«uaL 

The  conclusion  drawn  from  this^  wai  (hat  9t6  were  probably  uvcd  from 
the  iQfetitiotii  of  whom  2$^  would  otherwke  naturalJj  bare  died  in  thetlioft 
ipacc  of  eight  months  I 

By  a  report  of  vrtccination  in  that  year,  it  appeari  that  up  to  thot  period 
$7B4  persons  had  been  vnccinuted  nt  Nottiugfiam,  out  of  which  one  only 
tcKjk  the  small  pox,  and  died  ;  whiht  in  that  nit m be r  of  patienlfi  in  the  iialu- 
tal  way  the  prnportion  of  deaths  would  bare  been  60O;  and  with  inoculation 
f7.     Vide  Monthly  Mugndnc. 


IfOTTtNOflAirilfritC^ 


us 


Mpet 


There  were  14S  winds  between  N.  and  N,  E. ;  79  between  E. 
ajitl  S.  E. ;  157  between  S.  and  S.  W. ;  and  88  from  W.  to  N.  W, 

le  State  of  thr  Poor  is  at  all  lime?*  an  object  of  conse* 

nee,  but  more  parlictilfirJy  so  in  a  large  nianufikcturnig  town 
like  Nottinghnm.  The  public  workhooj^es  and  charities  we 
have  already  noticed;  but  it  rniglrt  perhaps  be  of  singular  tise, 
if  a  house  of  General  liiflusiry  were  established,  which  Eiien^ 
in  his  work  on  the  Poor,  says  was  in  contem|>l4itiou  some  years 
before  he  WTote,  but  failed  on  account  of  the  dilliculiy  of  unit* 
ing  men  of  different  party  principles,  even  in  a  work  of  be- 
oevoleuce. 

At  the  period  when  Eden  wrote,  there  were  no  less  than  fifty* 
one  friendly  societies  ;*  and  he  also  takes  a  very  particular  no- 
tice of  a  most  benevolent  and  rational  one,  called  the  Charitable 
Society,  the  principal  intenlinn  of  which  is  to  extend  relief  to 
such  cases,  as  it  is  impossible  to  alleviate  under  the  general 
poor  laws.  In  pursuance  of  this  plan  the  funds  have  been  faith* 
fully  employed,  as  far  as  their  general  amount  wilt  admit  of^ 
and  principally  to  the  following  objects;  to  strangers  in  distress, 
and  to  persons  labouring  under  disease  or  other  casual  mis  for- 
tuoe.  This  has  been  done,  either  by  loans^  by  donations,  or 
both,  as  circumstances  required.  The  society  has  also  paid,  in 
some  instances,  small  annual  subscriptions  to  Sunday  schools; 
and  they  have  even  paid  for  the  education  of  individuals  in  poor 
and  deserving  families.  The  Qtuiker^  were  the  original  patrons 
of  tills  benevolent  plan,  in  which  they  were  soon  joined  by 
others;  but  it  was  left  principally  under  their  management. 

In  18(J3  {than  which  %ve  have  not  been  able  to  procure  a  more 
recent  account)  the  parish  raien  of  St.  Mary's  amounted  to 
SS95Ly  Sl  Nicholas*  to  5^55/.;  aikl  St.  Peter's  to  U67/.;  at 
which  time,  houses  were  rated  froni  III.  8d,  to  I^i. ;  and  land 
from  It**  iOif.  to  19s,  Gd.  in  the  pound. 

These  rateji,  however,  must  l>e  enunnously  augmented,  when 
H*e  consider  tliat  the  number  of  poor  relieved  in  the  first  weeic 

of 


*  But  Ibeti  ttiere  wetf  152  alefiausek  *. 


lU 


nOTTIKGaAMSniRS. 


of  January  1819,  wan  8288,  in  2363  families^  and  on  the  SOtfl 

of  the  same  month,  4248  families,  ainouiiting  to  15350;  so 
that  in  one  month,  the  number  of  paupers  was  doubted,  and 
actuatty  amounted  to  nearly  one  half  of  the  population. 

If  any  ihingcould  convince  the  labouring  poor,  of  the  tmpro* 
priety  of  popular  commotion,  we  think  this  would  be  sufBcient; 
for  though  the  manufactures  of  Nottingham  must  undoubtedly 
have  suffered  from  the  present  restricted  state  of  commerce,  yel 
that  efiect  had  been  fully  produced,  before  the  first  week  in 
January.  To  what  then,  it  may  be  asked,  are  we  lo  attribute 
this  extraordinary  increase?  To  the  noUl  most  certainly ;  as 
they  have  obliged  the  employ ers  to  stop  rheir  works,  lest  their 
property  should  be  destroyed.     This  needs  no  comment* 

In  referring  more  particularly  to  the  Pbesent  State  of  Not- 
tingham, we  shall  have  an  opportunity  of  noticing  some  points 
that  did  not  regularly  come  under  any  of  the  preceding  beads; 
and  here  we  may  first  consider  its  progressive  improvement.  Lc- 
land,  speaking  of  it  generally,  tells  ua  that  *'  it  is  both  a  large 
towne,  antl  wMe  builded  for  tymbre  and  plaister,  and  standeth 
stately  on  a  clyninghille.'*  Of  these  buildings  of  "  tymbre,"  few, 
if  any,  are  now  remainirkg;  but  it  ts  evidenttthat  all  the  advan- 
tages  arising  from  its  situation,  were  not  then  attended  lo;  for, 
even  so  late  as  the  middle  of  the  seventeenth  century,  we  are 
told  that  the  stranger,  especially  in  the  winter,  found  the 
Trent  lanes  very  dirty,  and  after  he  had  passed  the  Lecn 
bridge,  the  very  foot  of  the  town,  called  the  Bridge  End,  deep 
and  miry.  At  his  first  entrance^  continues  Deringt  into  the 
narrow  passage  which  used  to  lead  between  two  high  preci- 
pices* lo  the  upper  part  of  the  town,  be  was,  from  a  parcel  of 
little  rock  houses,  if  the  wind  was  Northerly,  saluted  with  a 
volley  of  suJFocatjng  smoke,  caused  by  the  burning  of  gorse  and 
tanners'  knobs.  Every  body,  he  adds,  knows  the  fragrancy 
and  cleanliness  of  tanners,  fell  mongers,  and  curriers,  many  of 
which  were  then  dispersed  all  over  the  town;  the  greatest  tho- 
roughfare 

*  Query,  the  HoUun  Stmie? 


4 


iTOTTflTGHAMSfftll] 


145 


FDUgbfare  In  the  town,  Brldlesmith  Gate,  wai  then  lined  on 
both  sides  with  the  roughest  kind  of  blacksmiths ;  the  market 
place,  though  spacious^  yet  was  paved  but  on  one  sidii,  and  on 
the  other,  called  the  Sands,  it  was  very  mtry.  That  p!ace  near 
Su  Peter's  church,  where  the  Monday  market  was  afterwards 
projected,  was  not  paved ;  and  part  of  it  was  so  boggy,  that 
there  was  a  bridge  of  planks  laid  acroits  it  with  a  single  rat)« 
over  which  it  was  extremely  dangerous  to  pass  in  the  night 
time.  The  whole  of  that  quarter  was  dirty  in  the  extreme,  and 
there  was  one  continued  swamp  from  Listergate  to  the  Lene. 

Al  that  lime,   indeed,  the  houses  were  not  only  of  wood  and 

plaisier,  but  the  roofs  were  thatched  with  straw  or  reeds;  and 

we  are  told  the  first  tiled  house   in  Nottingham  was  one  in  the 

.Long  Row,  which  had  formerly  been  the  Unicom  Inn,  the  last 

lin  the  row,  and  which  had  its   new  roof  put  on  in  1503.     The 

toldest  brick  house  was  the  Grfen  Dragon^  a  public  house  in  the 

tLong  Row,  of  the  dale  of  1615.    Some  slight  improvements  took 

(place  during  the  civil  wars;  but  it  was  not  until   after  the  Re^ 

[storation,  that  the  increase  of  manufactures  produced  a  consider- 

ible  melioration  in  the   style  of  building.     Of  these  earlier 

[upeeimens  of  the  elegance  of  those  days  there  are  stiU  some 

f  remains. 

Tkurland  Hall  is  a  good  specimen  of  that  style ;  at  present 

fit  seems  to  contain  only  two   thirds  of  the  original  plan*  con- 

i  fiMting  only  of  a  centre  and  one  wing.     The  centre  has  a  double 

I  row  of  ornamental  pila-sievs;  the  door  of  entrance  is  about  eight 

fcet  above   the   level  of  the   street,  with  steps  to  ascend;  the 

I  window  frames  are  of  heavy  stone  work;  and  there  are  semi- 

I  circular  zigzag  pointed  fronts  to  the  roof.     Within  side,  the 

rthickness  of  the  walls  reminds  the  stranger  of  ancient  dungeons; 

and  the  apartments,  though   spacious,  are  extremely  gloomy. 

I  The  great  room  is  generally  used,  upon  public  occasions,  ass 

dining  apartment  for  the  meetings  of  the  nobility  and  gentry  of 

the  couniy. 

P/umtrc*s  Houst  is  of  a  more   modern  date,  and  has  been 
Vol.  XIL  K  much. 


p^.  andgtiHsrilly^.adbiiked  for  ils  very  light  andeUfuil 
froi^  bniit  in  the  Italian -style  of  arohitectnre;  it  standi  ouSu 
lAaty's  hilU  and  is  a  great  ornament  to  thai  part  of  the  toira. 
Here*  we  cannot  avoid  doing  Kottingham  the  josttce  of  record* 
^g  the  sentimentsof  an  intelligent  foreigner  respecting  it.^ 

^  This  of  all  the  towns  I  have  yet  seen»  except  Londoii^ 
ismied  to  me  to  be  one  of  the  best;  -end  is  nndottbtedly  the 
thanest.  Erery  thing  here  iprore  s^modem  .appearance^  and  a 
luge.place,  in  ihe  centre^  scarcely  yielded  to  aLondcfi  square 
In  point  of  beanty.  Noltingbam  lies  high*  and  makes  -a  bean* 
lifiil  appearance  at  a  distance^  with  its  neat  high  hooses,  -red 
foo^  and  its  lofty  steeples^'' 

We  notice  the  state  of  Owrdmng  in  Nottingham  and  its 
neigUioiirhood»  merely  for  the  poqpost  of  recocduig  one  or 
tpsocnrieorfocts.  It  appears  that  seen  after  theConquest»  as 
already  mentioned*  the  king  gave  to  •  William  P^erell  ten 
acres  to  make  an  apple-orchard  (mdfniendmm  Pommiuuh}  and 
tvkiehissopposedy  from  thediffiuenceinmeasarib  tohajrecon* 
ilitnted  great  part  of  the  present  park.  We  have  norecordiw 
howe  ver»  of  its  havuig  been  planted  with  •frnit  irfes.   . 

In  later  times,  we  are  told  by  Deringp  AaV  the  gardeners  of 
Nottingham  were  not  very  skilfol*  imtil  after  the  arrival  of  Mar- 
shall Tallard,  and  the  other  French  officers  taken  at  Blenheim, 
who  '^  resided  in  Mrs.  Newdigate's  hoose  in  the  Castle  gial^  and 
smde  very  fine  gardens  there/' 

The  Stgfpfy  qf  water,  a  thing  so  necessary  in  a  popalous 
place,  has  of  late  been  much  oomplPMnod  of.  Throsby 
observes,  generally,  that  the  wells,  like  the  ceUatSii  are 
9ften  of  the  depth  of  36  yards,  and  the  whole  descent 
through  a  body  of  rock  ;  but  a  ^^reat  ;part  of  the  vrater 
wluch  is  used  in  Nottingham,  is  supplied  by  water  works»  which 
have  become  profitable  to  the  proprietors.  .  The  editorof  a  re- 
cent local  guide,  however^  complains  that  the  place  caaaor 
boast  of  good,  pure,  and  wholesome  water;  and  bf  asserts 

♦'•that 

*  Travelt  in  England^  mottly  on  Utot,  by  MoHtE,  a  Pnuaitii  derg3rnuio>'>n<l 
•  profeiior  of  ooe  of  the  OenMO  onircitkiei,  1794. 


Eiri6e  water  WuK  which  the  works  on  the  river  Lene  sup- 
ply not  more  than  cue  third  of  the  town,  is  far  from  being  pure  ; 
but  eyen  the  advantage  of  this  the  most  populous  part^  caiinot 
obtain ;  and  to  this  cause,  together  with  the  confined  s^ate  of  the 
buildiogs^  mrich  of  the  excessive  dlth^  misery,  and  disease^  of 
the  lower  orders  of  the  people^  are  to  be  attributed.^'  We 
hope,  howeverj  that  this  picture  is  rather  too  deeply  colourtd  t 
it  is,  at  the  same  tirae,  a  matter  of  serious  regret,  that  the  dis- 
agreement of  parties,  as  has  bet^u  said,  should  have  so  far  pa- 
ralysed pub  he  spirit,  as  to  have  prevented  some  judicious,  and 
probably  efficacious,  improvements  lately  proposed. 

The  Supply  of  coal,  an  article  of  such  importance,  may  be 
supposed  to  be  on  a  cheap  and  convcn tent  scale,  as  Notting- 
ham is  in  the  immediate  viciaity  of  very  extensive  coalpits; 
yet  it  has  been  a  matter  of  complaint,  that  the  increased  facili* 
liesol  water  carriage  have  actually  raised  the  price  upwards  of 
50  per  cent.  This  has  been  attributed  to  a  *'  combination 
against  the  poor*' ;  but  it  is  more  likely  to  have  arisen  from  the 
extension  of  the  country  to  be  supplied,  in  consequence  uf  the 
new  canal  cuts  having  Leeu  greater  than  the  usual  supply  at 
the  pits  was  equal  to. 

In  adverting  to  the  State  of  Soctett,  it  is  unpleasant  to  be 
obliged  to  remark,  that  a  town  possessing  so  many  facilities,  for 
promoting  the  comfort  and  happine^  of  its  population,  should  yet 
be  "  so  split  in  parties,  that  no  measure  afiecting  the  inhabi- 
tants is  allowed  to  be  carried  into  execution,  without  under- 
going a  very  rigorous  investigaiion.**  Such  was  the  observa- 
tion of  Sir  F-  M.  Eden,  in  his  State  of  the  Poor;  and  we  lament 
It,  because,  instead  of  leading  to  truth^i  as  it  might  be  proved 
to  do  theoreticalttf,  its /jr<*c//ca/ consequences  are  generally  so 
mixed  with  the  personal  feelings  of  party  spirit,  that  the  best 
measures  are  negatived  merely  because  that  the  question  ia 
thereby  carried  for  or  against  the  opposing  interests. 

The  prevalence  oi  a  decided  party  spirit  in  Nottingham 
cannot  be  more  fully  proved  than  by  a  recent  fact  of  a  news- 

K  9  room 


Ut  ndtfiirdirAiiiiiicf. 


i  being  eitablithed,  wlioBe  list  of  newspapers  were  pnlH- 
UsbwL  ttul  were  aih  if  not  the  decided  organs,  at  least  the  dgy 
cided  partisans^  of  one  Hde.  We  will  not  make  any  obser* 
fatioDson  the  Ubermlky  of  this  arrangement;  it  is  sufficient  to 
iay»  that  another  newsroom  has  been  proposed,  on  a  tme  liberal 
plan>  without  reference  to  part j  politics*  or  local  prejudices* 
TUa  is  aa^it  should  be,  and  will  undoubtedly  accord  more  with 
the  general  spirit  of  4he  town ;  for  that  the  genermt  Mpnrii  h  a 
liberal  one,  however  it  aoay  have  bee^  warped  by  noisy  or 
designing  partisans,  is  evident  firom  the  unity  and  aetive  be- 
nevolence so  particularly  displayed  in  several  of  the  charita* 
ble  establishments  already  noticed.  But  in  Nottingham  it  must 
ever  be  the  case,  as  in  other  places,  that  those  101AO  are  reaify 
Hhmaitmd  candid  are  silent. and  quiel,  too  often  indeed  su- 
pine* whilst  those  who  make  liberality  of  sentiment  teir  stalk- 
ing horse  are  at  least  chunorous*  if  not  intolerant  • 
Wbilatdoing  justice  to  the  inhabitants  at  the  present  day,  we 

^not,  however,  forget  an  ancient  distich: 


*'  ypo  niw  ooofipgMi,  pww  I— dbte  Kottiajh— ^     . 
Gent  foBtet  atque  focus,  sordidiii  Ule  locus." 

And  which  has  been,  though  not  very  elegahtly,  translated : 

**  I  cMmot  without  \y%  and  shsiae, 
Commend  the  town  of  Notting^imm* 
The  People  and  the  fuel  st 
The  place  as  sordid  as  a  Sink  !" 

T^is  opprobrium,  if  it  ever  had  truth  on  its  side,  is  now  com- 
pletely done  away ;  let  us  then  turn  to  more  agreeable  subjects. 
That  the  state  of  genteel  society  here  has  long  beeii  on  a 
ftsbionable  scale  b  evident  from  the  statement  of  Dering,  that, 
hi  the  middle  of  the  last  century,  there  were  400  saddle  horsesj^ 
above  fSO  coach,  chaise,- and  team  horses,  II  gehtlemeoV 
coaches  and  chariots,  a  considerable  number  of  chaises  and 

•  ■  chairs^ 


^irOTTlKaHAMSniKl, 


n9 


'cbairs^  liesides  five  hackney  glass  coaches*   one  charioi»  and 
9«Teral  chaises  and  chairs  on  the  same  principle*^ 

The  Assemblies  of  Nottingham  are,  as  in  ail  oiher  place^»  the 
resort  of  the  young  and  gay,  who  go  to  see,  and  be  seen ;  and 
also  of  those,  who,  having  played  their  matrimonial  cards  well 
in  early  life,  are  now  content  to  sit  down  to  a  game  of  sober 
whi^t  or  r^uadrille.  There  was  a  distinction  tn  former  limes 
thai  certainly  trenched  much  upon  the  harmony  of  society,  in 
baving  two  separate  as&emblies^  for  the  two  separate  classes  of 

K  3  polite 

•  If  we  go  funlier  back,  liowcrer,  to  llic  beginning  of  thf  »»xtceiiib  ccntary 
only,  wc  must  form  m  ciiritnis  idfa  of  the  state  vf  laanners,  from  the  dre^  t>f 
an  iti{ieTman*ii  lister,  uliU>  dj^ing  in  151  J,  lefl  in  htv  nvilli  the  fallowing 

'*  Item.  I  gire  to  my  sitter,  Margnrtt  Banks,  every  year,  «  gitrmeni 
of  the  price  at  5%.  4d.  dttting  her  life,  «a  need  re^uiret,  aiid  a  pair  of 
iho'^s^  a  imoke,  and  a  kerdiirrof  8d«  price,  and  every  quitrter  of  a  jretit,  t^4. 
and  A  foame  in  my  bedc  hou>c,  like  at  oilier  my  bede-folkc»  liavc" — ^so  iliai  if 
Mr».  Marp;arel  TSanki  had  no  more  clothes  ihim  those  Jeft  by  the  wt*,rthy 
aldtrman,  she  musl  hare  *iecn  nfnritf  ai  thinly  clad  a»  toiuc  of  mir  fasliion- 
able  belles  of  tlw  present  day. 

In  eiimining  the  various  cireuniftance^  peculiar  to  tht*  places  in  flncient 
^y«i  we  find  a  provcfb  recorded  bj  Fuller  : 


*'  The  litil^  imtili  <if  NotiingUim, 
Who  doth  the  work  that  no  luau  cm/' 


He  thinks  it  means  Ko^r^^,  or  a  person  ^^ha  nvvtt  was;  and  8<ldi,  thai  the 
proverb.  Hy  way  uf  Mircasm,  Jt  appVit'd  to  such,  wlio,  h^'ing  concoiied  of  their 
ikill,  pretend  to  Ihe  atdiicfing  of  in»t»'>i»ibililjei.  But  Dcring  is  of  opinion, 
that  It  aioie  merely  from  the  circumstunce  of  Natriiigham  havingj  in  I  urine  r 
eWaet,  Heeti  famous  for  the  pjodoction  of  the  most  curious  nrtJcks  in  the  jrnn 
manufacture:  whilst  lUy  take*  it  literally,  itiirl  supposes  thaithcre  really 
wat  a  "  little  *milh/'  who  wmstQ  very  clever,  tlial,  by  a  kind  o|  a^jhiwable 
eaag^eraiioii,  he  might  belaid  to  **  do  the  work  that  no  man  could/'  'J  hit  is 
all  duabtlest  vcrj  ingenious;  but  tf  we  might  hazard  a  cimj^'vlure^ff  is  not 
impufuble  that  the  Unei  may  rather  be  an  Enigma  lt«an  a  Pr^Ji/rrftMiad  ihsit  the 
"lii tic  smith*'  wmt  a  Ind^,  as  even  at  the  present  day,  hi  the  iirjgfihuurmg 
cjuntici,  many,  though  nut  absniuicly  of  the /a»r  arx,  afe  employed  at  the . 
Cyclopmii  iorge.  U  then,  thit iudy  was  clever  a*  a  tforkjuan,  tJie  whole  might 
be  a  huniourout  alluilou  to  her  ikill  und  to  imt  sex. 


160 


HOTTlKGIIAMftlllRC* 


jjoUtc  and  middle  life.  The  former  of  these,  the  "  Ladies*  As* 
semblies,"  were  held  in  a  lofty  and  spacious  apartment  on  iht 
Low  Pavement,^ited  up  with  all  the  usual  convenitncies;  and  ihe 
latter,  the  *'  Tradesman's  Assembly/'  at  the  Thurland  HalL  The 
assembly  room  at  the  Low  Pavement  «till  remains;  but  ihe  other 
we  believe  is  discontinued,  as  there  is  now  a  more  geaermi  and 
liberal  mixture  of  society. 

The  Theatre  is  a  plain  building  in  Mary  Gat«»  withotit  any 
external  decorations  but  very  jvidiciously  fitted  up  and  arranged 
within*  A  recent  writer,  however,  has  observed,  that  it  la,  per- 
haps, to  the  credit  of  the  inhabitants  that  more  attention  has  been 
paid  to  useful  and  charitable  institutions,  than  to  those  of  mere 
entertainment. 

The  Rii>iNG  School  also  of  the  yeomanry  cavalry,  at  the 
lop  of  Castle  Gate,  has  often  been  the  scene  of  the  usual  eqaes* 
trian  and  other  itinerant  exhibitions. 

The  Ansu.\l Races  for  the  king's  plate  take  place  herein 
July.  Formerly  the  course  was  four  miles,  but  now  unly  two 
miles,  round ;  it  js  on  the  north  side  of  the  town,  to  the  left  of  the 
Mansfield  road ;  and  is  said  to  be  one  of  the  best  in  England,  so 
far  at  least,  as  that  it  is  never^out  of  order  in  any  kind  of  weather^ 
being  on  a  sandy  soil,  and  having  a  sufficient  descent  The 
Race  Stand,  is  an  elegant  building  of  two  stories  in  height; 
built  by  Mr,  John  Carr,  of  York,  as  architect,  and  the  first 
stone  laid  by  Mr,  St  re  Eton.  The  lower  story  projecU  some  dis- 
tance beyond  the  upper,  with  a  ballustrade  on  top,  and  a  ter- 
race to  which  opens  the  upper  room  of  seven  windows  in  front* 
The  whole  of  the  upper  part  is  appropriated  for  the  company 
during  the  heats,  and  the  lower  apartments  arc  very  judiciously 
fitted  up  for  refreshments. 

The  Public  Walks^  in  and  about  Nottingham,  are  very  nume- 
rous, though  there  is  none  that  can  be  considered  as  the  public 
MalL  The  Castle  terracci  and  the  park,  have  been  already  de- 
scribed, and  the  meadows  which  extend  along  the  banks  of  the 
Trent  are  in  many  spots  peculiarly  pleasant,  from  the  very 
charming  prospects  which  they  command.    These,  with  the 

others 


XOTTllTGIIAHSHtAB. 


151 


I 

I 
I 

I 
I 


others  called  the  **  Burgesses  Grounds/'  nre  much  frequented ; 
and  ti>  these  we  must  add  the  walks  to  Wilford  and  Clifton^  and 
to  Colwick,  where  ihere  is  a  springs  formerly  in  great  repute. 
The  t^hote  of  the  scenery  is  pleasingj  and  much  enli?ened  by 
the  very  frequent  passage  of  commercial  craft,  on  the  Trent  and 
the  other  canal  cuts. 

Another  favourite  walk  u  to  St  Ann's  WeH»  about  two  miles 
distant,  at  the  foot  of  a  hiH,  not  many  years  ago  covered  with 
trees,  and  called  "  Nottingliam  Coppices.**  This  is,  howcTcr, 
now  entirely  cleared^  inclosed,  and  cultivated;  though  the  old 
name  still  remains*  This  hilL  or  part  of  it  at  least,  belongs  to 
the  burgesses.  The  well  itself  is  covered  by  an  arched  stone 
foof,  but  of  rude  workmanship;  and  has  formerly  bten  often 
used  as  a  cold  bath ;  Throsby  says,  "  it  will  kill  a  toad/*  Even 
now  rheumatic  patients  derive  some  benefit  from  its  application. 
The  houiye  of  entertainment  is  near  the  well ;  and  they  are  still 
surrounded  by  a  few  trees,  which  add  much  to  the  beauty  of 
the  place  in  a  summer  evening.  The  story  of  this  place  having 
been  a  sequestered  haunt  of  Robin  Hood  is  motit  probably  a 
fable;  though  certainly  he  may  have  been  there;  but  as  for 
the  cap,  and  part  of  his  chair,  or  at  least  those  things  shewn 
for  them,  it  would  be  absurd  to  place  any  dependence  irpon 
their  autheniku^ft  as  relics,  after  so  long  a  period  as  70<}year>4. 
Brome,  who  made  a  tour  in  1700,  say  a,  "Strangers  are  placed 
in  the  chair,  a  cap  put  on  their  heads,  &c.  when  they  receive 
the  freedom :" — ^in  short  it  is  nothing  more  than  a  second  edition 
of  the  Horns  at  Highgate.  Deringp  indeed,  very  properly  con- 
siders the  whole  as  the  artifice  of  some  former  publican,  and 
which  was  so  profitable  as  to  be  retained,  bringing  great  num- 
bers, as  at  the  present  day,  to  spend  their  money  in  holiday 
times:  he  adds,  "for  at  those  times,  great  numbers  of  young 
men  bring  their  sweethearts  to  this  well,  and  give  them  a  treat  ; 
and  the  girls  ihink  themselves  ill  used,  if  they  have  not  been 
saluted  by  their  lovers  m  Robin  nood*s  chair ;"  so  that  it  ap- 
pears to  be  a  cure,  or  at  least  a  palliative,  for  love,  as  well  as  foi 
6ore  eyes  and  rheumatism.    The  house  is  built  on  the  scite  of 

K4  an 


ut 


WOTI^VfiHJillsaiftK. 


an  ancient  chapel,  and  part  of  the  east  wmll  is  incorj 
in  the  building ;  so  that  we  may  snppcse  Robin  Hood's  rtlb 
to  b^  no  older  than  the  Heformation«  when  the  mir^culow  le- 
gends of  Monkery  ceased  to  have  their  attraction,  and  thewt^ 
would  most  probably  ha?e  been  deserted  without  the  auisttoci 
of  Robin^  and  some  stout  Nottingham  ale*  Those  who  wisb» 
koow  further  particulsirs  may  consult  Bering,  page  73. 

About  a  furlong  from  the  well,  teat  the  Shepherd's  race,  i 
maze  or  labyrinth  cut  in  the  torft  on  the  summit  of  a  geodf 
hill.  It  wa%  on  what  was  once  a  common  belonging  to  SiieinloA 
parish,  given  to  them  by  the  family  of  Picrrepoint;  but  the  rectal 
inclosures  have  completely  destroyed  every  restige  of  iL  It 
was  17  or  18  yards  square;  at  the  angles  were  four  projectiooi, 
facing  the  four  cardinal  points ;  and  to  follow  it  through  all  its 
windings  would  have  been  a  pretty  bmart  run.  Stukely  thinks 
it  to  have  been  Roman ;  others  suppose  it  to  have  been  madt 
by  the  priests  of  St.  Anntr^s  chapeU  for  the  sake  ofexerciie; 
but  a^  the  slightest  vestiges  of  it  are  no  longer  in  eJCisteo^rU 
Is  unnecessary  to  examine  its  history  at  greater  length* 

The  Caves  of  Snei>*tok.  (illustrated  by  a  plate^)   thonj 
a  pariiih  distinct  from  Nottingham^  may  yet  be  properly  i 
in  this  place^  from  their  very  close  vicinity  to  the  t&wsi*     TIkk 
roton,  indeed,  says,  that  Sncinton  Lordship  (Snotington or  N 
ington,    as  it  is  called   in  thi?   Magna   Britannia^   and  wh 
serves  as  an  additional  proof  of  the  probability  of  a  eonjectai 
formerly  started  respecting  its  name,]  is  a  member  of  St.  Mary's^ 
Nottingham,  and  may  now  be  almost  considered   as  locaUj 
united  to  it.    It  is  a  distinct  parish, or  chapelry,  in  the  deam 
of  Nottingham  ;  and  the  present  ancient  chapel  dedicated 
St,  Stephen  stands   upon  the  summit  of  the  excavated 
surrounded  by  a  burying  ground  :  and  the  chapel   is  small 
low,  partly  in  the  Gothic  style,  but  having  nothing  to  reconi* 
mend  it  pariicuhrly  to  notice,  except  the  very  extensivi;  pi 
pect  over  the  vale  of  Belvoir,  and  even  a^  far  as  the  *'  JLeici 
tcrsU  ire  to  rest  rock/'  at  a  distance  of  twenty  miles.     From 


'51 

1 

call^ 

i 

J 


KOTTlHGHAHsntRl* 


isa 


pMxii  of  view  also  the  spectator  looks  down  upon  Colwick 
Hail,  the  &tdt  of  the  Musters  family,  oa  the  banks  of  the  mud- 
ing  Trent, 

It  was  ortginalty  crown  land ;  but  king  John  granted  it  to 
William  de  Briwere ;  from  whom  it  went,  ;n  the  reign  of  Edward 
Ihe  first>  to  Tibetot,  and  was  held  of  him  at  iLie  same  timp  by 
Robert  Pierpoint,  by  ibe  ser?lce  of  a  pair  of  gloves,  or  one 
penny,  though  fairly  valued  at  26/.  3«.  It  has  continued  cvef 
since  in  that  famiiy,  ^vho,  as  wc  have  obseryed,  gave^the common 
near  to  St*  Anne's  weH    to  the  parish. 

The  village  itself  is  rural,  at  present  in  some  measure  romantic  ; 
has  a  number  of  pleasant  villas  and  cottages,  and  has  long  been 
famous  for  a  race  of  dairy  people,  who  make  a  very  pleasant 
kind  of  soft  summer  cheese, 

Creat  part  of  the  village,  indeed,  consint^  of  ihe  habitations 
within  the  rock,  many  of  which  have  staircases  that  lead  up  to 
gardens  on  the  top,  and  some  of  them  hanging  on  shelves  on  its 
sides.  To  a  stranger  it  is  extremely  curious  to  see  the  perpen- 
dicular face  of  the  rock  with  doors  and  windows  in  tires,  and 
ihe  inhabitants  peeping  out  from  their  dens,  like  the  inmates 
of  another  world  ;  in  fact,  if  it  was  not  at  home,  and  therefore 
cf  no  value,  it  would,  without  doabl,  have  been  novelized  and 
melodramatized,  until  ail  the  fashionable  world  had  been  mad 
for  getting  under  ground.  The  cofleehouse*  and  ale  houses,  cut 
out  of  therockr  are  the  common  resort  of  the  holiday  folks;  in- 
deed the  cofieehouse  is  not  only  extremely  pleasant  from  its 
garden  plats,  and  arbours  in  front,  but  alto  extremely  curious 
from  its  great  extent  into  the  body  of  the  rock,  where  visitors 
may  almost  choose  their  degree  of  temperature  on  the  hottest 
day  in  summer. 

Without  going  into  all  the  minutia?  ofCorpomilon  squabblet , 
which  are  seldom  interesting  beyond  the  locality  of  the  borough 
itself,  it  is  enough  to  notice  of  the  MvNtctPAL  History  of  Not* 
tingham,  that  it  was  anciently  governed  b)''  two  bailifB,  coro* 
Ders,  and  a  common  council  ^  who  were  empoweied  by  Edward 

the 


IM 


VOTTTlirGBANSUTIll. 


the  first  to  choose  a  mayor.  Henry  the  sixth  made  it  a  coonlj 
of  itself;  and  it  has  dow  seren  wards,  with  each  an  aldermaiij 
oat  of  whom  the  mayor  is  ahrays  chosen.  These  wards  are* 
Chapel  ward,  on  the  western  side  of  the  town ;  Ciutlc  xourd,  in 
the  viclniiy  of  the -castle;  Market  ward,  inclading  the  market 
place*  and  the  Long  Row  and  lanes  to  the  north  of  it ;  NortA 
wurd,  which  embraces  the  north  ea5t  division  of  the  town  > 
Bridge  ward>  between  Sl  Mary's  and  the  Lene,  and  the  lanef 
and  streets  to  the  eastward  ;  Middle  taard,  which  h  very  small* 
to  the  east  of  Market  ward,  and  between  Grldle  Smith  Gate* 
and  Fletchergate ;  and  Monihall  ward,  to  the  south  east  of  the 
latter,  and  containing  the  Low,  and  part  of  the  High  Pave* 
mentii.  Each  alderman,  though  possessing  a  peculiar  jurisdic* 
tion  over^  is  not  obliged  to  reside  in»  his  ward ;  for*  indeed,  bit 
jurisdiction  may  properly  be  eaid,  as  a  justice  of  the  peace*  to 
extend  to  the  whole  town. 

At  present,  the  corporation  consists  of  a  mayor^  sis  alder* 
menji  a  recorder,  two  sheriffs,  two  coroners,  two  chamberlatnty 
aad  a  common  council  composed  of  twenty -four  bargessej^ 
eighteen  of  whom  are  chosen  by  the  burgesses  at  large,  but 
must  have  served  the  office  of  sheritr,  and  arc  the  senior  coun* 
cil.  whilst  the  remaining  six  arc  chosen  the  same  way  from  the 
body  at  large,  and  from  the  junior  council.  These,  however, 
have  ec[iJal  rightii,  and  equal  votes,  except  ihat  the  magistracy 
is  filled  Up  from  the  senior  body.  It  appears,  that  the  hurgesies 
of  Nuitingham  hjve  some  privileges,  advantageous  to  the  lower 
jaoksj  particutlarly  the  *'  Burgesses  Grounds/'  as  Ihey  are 
called,  which  may  be  worth  about  Si  per  annum*  to  about  300 
of  iheir  number,  to  themselves  during  life,  and  to  their  widows* 
Where  parties  run  high,  it  is  not  surprising  thai  charges  of 
undue  partiality,  in  the  distribution  of  these  dooceurs, should  be 
sometimes  brought  forward ;  nor  were  we  surprized  to  hear,  that 
some  attempts  which  were  made  to  enclose  these  lands,  giving 
the  various  claimants  an  equivalent,  have  hitherto  been  always 
negatived*  notwithstanding  the  probability,  that  such  iui  ar- 
9  range  meat 


■ 


KOTTlHOHABrsniRE. 


1^ 


I 
I 


I 

I 


rangement  ifi^ould  make  the  landJn  more  valuable,  and  more  use- 
ful u>  t  be  town  at  large.  No  doubt  that  some  of  the  partizani^p 
on  both  sides,  may  have  considered  these  grounds  as  very  good 
grounds  on  which  to  found  theii*  plans  of  borough  influence** 
In  Parliamentary  Rights,  the  mayor  and  corpora^un,  free- 
holders of  40^.  per  annum,  eldest  sons  of  freemen  by  birtb^ 
younger  son*  of  freemen  if  they  have  served  a  seven  years* 
apprenticeship  any  where,  and  freemen's  apprentices^  havd 
each  a  vote*  The  ancient  right  wa^  in  those  paying  scot  and 
lut;  but  Oldfield,  in  his  History  of  the  Boroughs,  complains 
that  the  decision  of  the  House  of  Commons,  in  1701,  which 
settled  the  present  arrangement,  hag  rendered  the  right  of  vot- 
ing so  complicated  and  open  to  fraud,  that  every  freeman 
may  qualify  as  many  as  he  pleases,  by  surreptitious  indentures 
of  appreniiceship.  He  adds,  however,  that  Nottingham  is  un* 
derno  immediate  influence,  owing  to  the  great  number  of  elec- 
tors, (n  bout  1700;)  yet  complains,  that  the  leading  men  of 
each  party  have  formed  a  coalition  to  return  one  member  each. 
This,  he  asserts,  neutralizes  the  two  voles;  and  he  recommends 
that  /A/«r  should  be  allowed  to  prevent  ii;  but,  however  fine 
this  may  look  in  theory,  it  is  extremely  probable,  that  those 
who  have  been  witnesses  to  popular  contesU  in  large  towns  are 
very  glad  to  secure  peace  and  quiet,  by  any  arrangement 
which  will  put  a  stop  to  scenes,  where  every  thing  is  considered 
but  libeHy  and  proptrty,  both  of  these  being  very  apt  to  suf- 
fer during  the  concussions  of  Whigs  and  Tories^  The  necessity 
ofaocnething  of  this  kind  at  Nottingham,  or  some  other  powerful 
palliative,  seems  acknowledged  by  a  late  act  of  Parliament,  in 
consequence  of  tumu I tuoua  proceedings  in  lH02,  which  gives 
a  concurrent  jurisdiction  in  this  borough  to  the  magistrates  of 
the  county  at  large. 

The  number  of  votes  has  been  estimated  at  1700;  but  it  is 

now 

•At  an  election  of  Cominoii  Coancilmen,  m  1797.  the  corporatina  and  caii- 
didatei  had  the  good  9eu»e  to  agree,  Ihai  n  Atm}  atop  should  be  put  to  the  old 
Abu«e  ol  gifin^  iDouej,  &c.  as  pracliaed  on  JWoier  occiuiotii.  Thi»  roajr  be 
^teduaykir  iiist&ucc  of  prActicul  relbroi* 


156 


KOTTlKGHAMSniRE. 


HOW  probably  much  larger-  The  votes  at  the  late  election  i»l 
1 J507,  ran  for  John  Smith,  E^q.  1047  ;  for  D.  R  Coke,  Eati,  7m  ij 
and  for  Dr.  Compton,  575. 

With  respect  to  BtoGRAPitY*   particularly  of  literary  cba-] 
racters^  Koltrogham  has  not  many  insUnccs  to  produce*     The 
first  we  find  on  record  is 

JoHji  Plough/  son  of  Christopher,  and  nephew  lo  John.P»j 
rector  of  St.  Peier*s  who  spent  JteveraJ  years  in  acquiring  acade- 
mical learning  at  Oxford  j  and,  in  the  latter  end  of  1543,  suppltr  1 
catcd  fur  ihc  degree  of  B.  C.  L.  but  does  ftot  appear  by  the  Uni*] 
vcrsitybook  to  have  obtained  it-     Yet,  at  that  period,  he  wai 
rector  uf  St.  Peter's,  in  room  of  his  uncle,  who  had  purchased  i 
ibc  adf  owson  for  one  mm  from  Thomas  Hobson>  the  prior  of  J 
Lenton  monastery,  in  order  to  confer  it  on  him.    Wood  says,] 
that  after  this  John  became  a  zealous  minister  of  God's  word, 
in  the  time  of  king  Edward  the  sixth  j  but  being  obliged  to  fly 
beyond  sea,  on  the  accession  of  queen  Mary^  he  went  to  reside 
a!  Ba^il,  and  there   wrote   the  following  books;   Apilogy   fotl 
the  Protestants,  written  in  answer  to  a  book  against  the  Englisll  j 
Protestents,  that  was  ptsnned  and  published  by  one  Miles  Ho 
geard,  of  London,  hosier;  a  Treatise  against  the  Mitred  Man  in] 
the  Popish  Kingdom  ;  and,  the  Sound  of  the  doletul  Trumpet. 

William  BftiGHTMAN,t  was  bred  a  fellow  of  ^ueei/s  College 
Cambridge,  and  afterwards  hentfficed  at  Hawnes,  in  Bed  for 
shire.  He  made  many  prophcciesj  and  Fuller  alludes  to  thefltl 
in  very  quaint  terms.  "  Sure  I  am  that  Time,  and  Mr.  B.  will 
expound  tbe  hardest  places  in  the  Revelation  j  but  what  credit 
is  to  be  given  to  the  latter  alone  1  will  not  engage.  Such, 
who  dislike  Mr.  B's  %vriting,  could  not  hut  commend  his  evan- 
gelical living>  who  had  so  much  of  heaven  in  his  heart.  Walk- 
ing through  the  vineyard  of  thi«;  %vorld*  be  plucked  and  eat  a 
few  gra^e>>,  but  put  up  mine  In  his  vessel,  using  wealth  as  if  he 
used  it  not.  His  clay  cottage  did  crack,  and  fell  down  in  the 
same  minute,  so  sudden  was  \m  death;  but  he  who  died 

could 
•  U'outJj  Alhciiajj  VoL  L  p.  i2$,  ♦  TuiitfB  Worthier. 


ir  OTTlUDTr  AMSTf  TUT:. 


4ouM  on  no  Jay   be  said  to  die  AudiWnly,  being  always  pre* 
pared  for  bh  dksolution." 


of 


I 


I 


GiLBBRT  W.iREdELD,  ifi  more  modem  daysi^  iras  a  native  « 
thiH  town,  being  bom  in  ibe  Parsonage  Houii:  of  St.  Nichub^,  of 
wbicb  parisU  Wh  father  iiras  rector,  on  the  ^d  of  Ffcby.  I75(i. 
HU  father  was  of  a  Derby^^htre  family,  but  immediately  from 
SlaHurd&bire.  His  motUt^r'ii  ancestors  were  of  Nottinj^bam*  her 
grandfather  having  been  twice  mayor:  by  an  allui^ion  madi^by 
Waketield,  in  liie  memoirs  uf  his  own  life,  they  were  onijinaljy 
fi^ihermen.  Ii  has  been  said  in  frome  recent  publication,  owing 
to  a  miiiintei'prelation  of  a  passage  in  the  first  volume  of  that  life, 
that  his  mother  was  buried  in  one  of  the  churches  at  Notltng* 
ham;  but  the  fact  is,  she  died  at  Hackney,  in  1800,  in  her 
79th  year,  and  was  buried  at  Richmond.  His  life  it*  »o  r«;ceut, 
and  had  m  little  connection  with  bis  native  county,  thut  it  is 
need  Jets  to  go  into  further  particulars,  except  that  after  Jear* 
iiig  the  academy  at  Warrington,  he  resided  at  Bramcole,  and 
afterwards  at  Ntittingham,  where  he  attempted  to  establijih  a 
school,  but  seems  to  have  been  either  unsucce3sful  or  unset tled« 
As  many  of  his  co temporaries  arc  yet  living,,  and  as  further 
notice  might  lead  us  into  both  religious  and  political  discussions, 
we  muiit  refer  to  his  own  life,  written  by  himself,  which  cstnnoi 
fail  ofatlWding  both  infarmation  and  amusement,  to  the  libera] 
on  both  sides  of  the  {|uestion.s  connected  with  lUh  learned, 
tbongh  unfortunate,  character, 

Henrv  KinKE  White  will  long  remain,  his  memory  at  lea«t, 
13  a  proof  that  genius  and  talents  will  always  burst  through  the 
thickest  veil  ofobscurity*  In  fact,  the  spirit  and  perseverance 
with  whicli  he  adhered  to,  and  at  last  accomplished  his  youlii- 
fal  wishes,  as  related  by  Mr*  Southey,  are  almost  incredible, 
yet  strictly  true ;  and  are,  or  ought  to  be,  a  proof  to  parents^ 
that  the  early  inclinations  of  their  children  ought  not  to  be 
heedlessly  thwarted  und^r  the  name  of  obstinacy,  where  they 
may  be  the  cont^equence  of  conscious  genius^  and  ot  coii»cii»U5 
wortb.     He  has  also  unfortunately  added  another  proof  of  the 


156 


llOTTIW0ttAM5HTltS. 


homeiy  nd^ge,  "lOon  ripe,  soon  rotten."  To  dilate  on  the  bi- 
ography of  him,  who  may  have  been  the  school  companion,  or 
college  friend,  of  in«iiy  who  read  these  lines,  must  be  totally 
ujinecettary ;  it  is  pleasant  to  remarki  however,  that  his  rae* 
mory  is  not  forgotten^  nor  useless  to  his  family,  the  female 
branches  of  which  now  superintend  a  very  respectable  board- 
ing school  in  Nottingham,  and  who  need  not  be  ashamed  td 
have  it  said,  that  the  merits  of  an  amiable  son  and  brother  go 
hand  in  hand  with  their  own* 

It  is  time  now  to  leave  Nottingham,  and  proceed  to  examine 
its 

Environs, 
with  which  we  shall  commence  in  a  north-west  direction,  come 
round  by  the  west,  to  the  southern  parts  of  the  counry,  not 
confining  ourselves  to  the  exact  local  division  of  Hundreds,  b»t 
adopting  such  a  route  as  would  most  readily  pre^nt  itself  to 
the  observant  tourist.* 

BAsroBo 

*  In  the  general  iketch  of  the  county,  it  has  been  atatedj  that  there  *te 
»ix  wapentakes  or  h  anil  reds.     I'hc  pariihcs  cootatned  in  each,  arc  as  Tollotr : 

IttrsffcLiFre.  Adholton  ;  Barton  m  the  Beunt ;  West  Bndgcford ;  Bon' 
r.ty  ;  Clifton;  Curlinstock  ;  Gotham;  Key  worth  ;  Ke^nston,  an  Untndoned 
Chapelr;  ;  Eaat  Leek;  NormanCon  upon  Soar;  Plunitre;  Ratcliffe  upon 
Soar ;  Henitoo ;  Ruddtngton,  has  Flawfardy  for  tlie  mother  cluirch ;  Staor- 
ford;  Stanton  in  the  Wolds;  Snttun  BoningtoD;  TfftOFp  in  liie  Clods;  Wid- 
mcrpole;  WjsalL 

BiNGiiAM.  AsUctori  in  Whatton  j  Bingham;  East  Bridgvford;  Biotigh- 
ton  Salncy  ;  C«rcoh(onj  Cofgravc,  two  panslics ;  Coliton  Basset;  Cropwcll 
Bishop;  Elton;  Flinlham;  Grantv  ;  Hawkeswoith ;  Htckling;  Holme 
Pierputnt;  Knereton  ;  Kmollon  ;  Lunger;  Orston;  Owlhorpi  Baddiffe  opotv 
Trent;  ScrevetouiTilhbycunj  CropwclJ;  Whaltoa,  cujitaiiiing  thtChmpclrj 
of  Astacton. 

Ntwjiti.  Baniby  in  the  Willows;  Norih  Clifton;  North  and  Soutli  CoL 
ruigliams;  C<»thani;  Eikering  ;  EI»lon ;  Farrington  ;  Hawton;  KilWngioii; 
Newark;  South  Scarlc ;  Shelion  ;  Syeriton  Chape Ity ;  SUnton^  JStoke  ^ 
Tborney;  Thorp  by  Newark;  Winihorpc, 

B4S5ETLSW.      N^trih  Cl^.     Beckingham ;   Boyle;    Glarboroiigh ;    Cla- 


MOTTtKOBAIfSBtHBV 


»«J 


,  fS/iSFOlD  h  the  fir»t  plactf,  in  this  direction^  deserving  of 
n  a  bottom,  to  which  yau  approach  from  tht:  race 
ground^  aud  the  scenery  around  it,  is  rich  in  the  extreme. 
Tills  villagei  indeed*  may  be  now  said  to  be  a  town«  lo  much 
is  it  increased  of  late,  from  «bc  various  raanufactarcs,  ami  the 
improvements  consequent  upon  them^  for  here  are  not  only  corn 
and  cotton  miUs,  but  I  he  bleaching  and  dyeing  branches  of 
business  have  been  carried  on  for  some  yeari*,  with  consider* 
able  success.  The  church  h  dedicated  to  St.  Leodigariui,  and 
has  a  very  handsome  spire;  with  a  nave  and  side  aisles  in  jf^ry 
good  order;  but  there  are  no  ancienl  epitaphs,  though  it  for- 
merly contained  many  armorial  bearings  in  the  windows.    The 

importance 

worth;  Cotef,  a  free  Cbspet;  Evertdn;  GTingley  on  tlie  Hill;  Havton; 
Holte;  Noflh  snd  South  LtfTertotw;  Missoo;  Misterton;  East  and  Wctt 
Retford»;  liowineloo ;  Saundby;  Stuiley;  Stufton;  Korth  and  South  TiU 
uei;  Wiilkriughani ;  North  a»d  South  Wheatiey. 

&Hith  Ciaif.  hiiiihorpe;  Darletoa^  Bait  Praylon;  Dunh^tro;  Eaton,  Of 
idteloni  Egmanton  i  Gamsion ;  Grove;  Headon  ;  Klrton;  LBuehiiui;  Lex» 
ifiton,  or  Lax  ton  ;  Eiist  Mark  ham  cum  Weil  Drayton;  We«t  Mark  ham  cHNi 
Bevercotei^  Morehoase ;  North  and  South  Maskliain ;  Muskham  Pre* 
bend;  Ramptoii;  East  and  West  Trtis^eUs;  Tntford;  U{iton. 

KATfiEti^.  Babworth;  Berercotes;  Blithe;  ISoughton,  but  ito  ehordl; 
B«tljaj]iieU ;  Carltou  in  Liiidrick  ;  Cuckcncy ;  Edwinstow ;  Elke»ley  ;  Flit* 
aiAgley;  Uarworth  i  Uougbtotij  Marlon,  here  wu»  ancicutly  a  Chiipdi 
ilattersej^  Merriel  Bridge,  here  was  a  CUupel  formerly;  OrdsaJI;  \Vei| 
Ray  too ;  Sutton  upon  Luuod  cum  Scrooby  ;  WateBby  ;  Warsr*p  ;  Worksop. 

BnoKtow.  Attenborough;  Arnold;  Batford ;  North  BeeJiton;  Bilbo* 
rough;  Biidworth ;  Bulwell;  Eastwood;  Grieslcy ;  Hucknall  Torcard ; 
Kirkb^  in  Athfield;  Lemon;  Linby;  MansBeld  ;  Nuthall ;  Radford;  Set- 
■ton;  Strelley  ;  Sutton  upon  Aihfield;  Tevertal ;  TroweJl ;  Wo'latan* 

TuvaoAaToit.  Arerhmm;  Bleaibjr;  Burtoo  Joyce  cum  Bulcote;  Ctl- 
f  erton  ;  Caunton  ;  Culwick ;  €rumweU;Editigiej  ;  Eperstou;  Eaton  or  Oiton ; 
Elton  in  Cropwelij  a  Prebetnl ;  Exton,  aiioUier  Prchetid;  FarnAcId  ;  Fled- 
borough;  Gediing;  Gonalston;  HttflougUton;  Ho<:kertan  ;  Hoveringham  ^ 
Kelham;  Kirklington :  Kn««aJZ;  Lamblrj  ;  Lowdham;  Mamham  ;  South 
Netbeley;  Nornaanton  by  Gfetthdrpe  ;  Noithivell  OverbaTl  ;  Owrngtoa.; 
Roliton;  Sntuton;  Stmthwell  ;  Stitton  iijxjn  Trent  j  Thurgartoo;  Uptoa  ; 
WeHon  Uercj  aud  NormauvUIe^  WoiMlboruugh, 


KOTTIIft 


importance  of  this  place  haa  also  been  kept  up,  by  its  being  Cbe 
scat  of  the   Court  of  the   Honour    qf  Pcvcrel,  since  it  wat  re- 
moved  from  Nottingham,     The   High  Steward,  however,  bus 
the  power  of  holding  it   by  his  deputy  wherever  he  ihinki 
necessary  or  convenient.     It  formerly   sat  every  Tuesday,  and 
has  jurisdiction,  not  only  over  Nultinghanishire,  (the  two  hun- 
dreds of  Thurgarton  and  Broscton.  being  added  to  the  others  in 
the  25Lh  Charles  the  2d,)  but  also  over  great  part  of  Derby- 
shire, and  a  town  or  two  in  Leicestershire.     At  present   it  siti 
twice  in  the  year,  to  try  causes  as  high  as  50/» ;  Lord  Middle- 
loo  h  the  High  Steward,  and  his   defmty  presides.      A  g«ol 
for  the  court  is  situated  here,  %vhich    Howard  describes  as  hav 
iiigj  at  the  time  of  his  wriiin;j,  merely  one  room,  with  three 
beds;  but  the  keeper  toUl   him,   he  had  atiotlier  little  room  for 
women  prisoners^  of  whom  there  being  none  in  bis  custody, 
he  applied  the  apartment  to  domestic  uses,     A  bowling  green 
close  by  the  gaol  is  much  frequented  by  the  inhabitants  of  Not- 
lingham;  and  Mr.  Bray  observes  in  his  tour,  that  the  prisoners 
bcitig  then  permitted  by  the  gaoler  to  wait  upon  the  company, 
their  confinement  was  not  very  rigorous* 

Mapperle^  is  a  hamlet  in  this  parish,  and  has  a  hand-some  seat 
ef  IcUaboii  Wright,  Esq,  a  banker  in  Nottingham.  This  gen- 
tleman has  been  very  active  in  forming  plantations^  and  making 
inclosures^  and  the  place  is  now  an  ornament  to  the  neighbour- 
hood* 

BuLWELL  is  a  large  village,  and  it«  inhabitants  arc  princi- 
pally employed  in  cotton  printing,  and  in  bleaching;  it  has 
also  some  very  extenMve  lime  works.     Part  of  the  parish  is  in 


I 


the  forest;  the  rest  is  incla^ied ;  but  the  Lordship  is  the  property  fl 
of  different  individuals,  who  are  stated  as  forming  a  kind  of  cor- 
poration, having  the  appointment  of  their  own  stewards,  and 
the  perqaisites  of  their  own  courts.  Yet  they  still  continue 
,  copyholders,  in  order  to  preserve  their  customs  and  forest 
rights*  The  ancient  manor  house,  Bulwcll  WoodhaU,  is  now  the 
residence  of  a  farmer;  but  a  handsome  house  has  been  built 

aome 


I 


KOTTIItGHAMSinaC. 


Jffl 


some  years  ago,  by  John  Ncwton,Esq.  to  which  he  wished  toaffiac 
the  name  of  the  place  ;  it  happens^  however,  unfortunately  to 
have  acquired  the  appellation  of  "  Pye-wipe-Hall,"  so  that  £u/* 
well  Hall  is  almost  obsolete. 

INuTHALL  stands  a  short  distance  from  Bulwellj  the  Tillage 
is  very  BmaU,  but  has  a  neat  and  well  preserved  church,  dedi* 
cated  to  St  Patrick,  with  a  handsome  tower,  and  two  aisjc!?. 
Here  were,  formcriy,  several  ancient  monuments  of  the  family 
of  Bonn:  and  there  are  also  some  moilern  ones,  butnotofpar- 
ticubr  consequence-  Some  of  the  armorial  bearings  of  the 
Strelleys^  and  other  familie3>  yet  remain  in  the  windows. 

But  the  greatest  beauty  of  the  place  is  the  Temple,  the  seat 
of  the  Hon  Henry  Sedley,  formerly  Veniont  but  who  took  thin 
name  in  consequence  of  his  marriage   w*ith  the  only  daughli^r 

I  of  the  late  Sir  Charles  Sedley,  Bart.*  This  scat  of  Nut/tall 
Templct  stands  on  an  extensive  plain,  near  to  tlie  village,  and 
has  a  spacious  paddock  cont^ected  with  it^  but  without  any  of 
the  higher  embellishments  of  park  or  garden  scenery.  The 
house  is  a  square,  with  two  low  wings,  and  a  handsome  portico 
in  front,  consisting  of  six  lofty  pillars^  with  a  neat  pediment; 
*  and  a  light  ballusiraded  range  of  steps.  The  roof  is  pitched  pretty 
high,  with  a  lofty  dome  in  the  centre,  surrounded  with  an  airy 
baliustrade.  The  visitor  first  enters  a  magnificent  hall,  sup- 
ported by  detached  columns  of  the  composite  order,  lighted 
from  the  dome,  and  elegantly  decorated.  The  dome  within 
Vol.  XI L  L  displays 

*  or  tUli  ramltj  was  Sir  C[i!irt«!S  Sedlej^jin  tlie  reign  of  Cbarlea  the  lecoud^ 
noted  for  Uis  gallantry,  and  pnrticularlj  meationcd  in  GritrnmontS  Memoirs 
of  tlie  Engl bli  Court.  Diasipaiioii,  howcrcr,  vr as  then  fashionable  ;  but  m 
«|pi(e  of  court  intrigue*  !9ir  Churlei  shewed  himself  an  honest  pstnut  H  the 
|lcv<iJation»  when  be  waa  very  active  agaiiivt  Jamea  the  second,  humourouifj 
observing,  th«t  be  should  do  bis  utmoU  to  make  his  Majesty *s  d*ug)iter  & 
qtK'en.  as  the  king  Imd  made  his  a  Counless ;  nltuding  to  her  being  mtde 
Coonte>s  of  Dorchester*  She  was  no  beauty,  Charles  once  said,  his  brother 
had  her  by  tvay  of  penance  j  yet  such  wus  James's  attachment,  (bitt  he  Mpould 
not  part  with  her,  except  at  the  slrang  retuon»trances  of  the  queen  and  priei^^ 
agfuiisl  whom  she  tiad  employed  die  irholc  torce  of  her  ridicule. 


l6t  irOTTlirGRAMSBXRS. 

diiplays  «  profuaioii  of  oraameiilal  bocy  w^k,  and  baaf  a  light 
gallery  tupported  by  the  pillars  of  tbe  hall.  On  enlraace,  a 
BtK€hHt,  of  elegant  workmanship,  imilet  upon  the  stranger, 
who  cannot  fail  of  being  much  strack  not  only  with  the  ale* 
ganccj  bttt  with  the  conTenience  of  arrangement,  which  displays 
itself  on  all  side^  particularly  in  the  easy  oommuoication  from 
the  hall  to  the  Tarioos  apartments. 

Yet,  with  all  this  elegance,  a  moment's  consideraiioB  destroya 
the  effect,  as  there  is  something  particularly  incongmons  in  this 
style  of  architectttre  in  our  climate.     The  original  Rolonda  of 
Palladio,  of  which  this  house  is  a  copy,  is  the  VilU  Capra  near 
Vicenaa  in  Italy,  one  of  the  most  celebrated  works  of  that 
great  restorer  of  ancient  architecture,  and  which  is  shoated 
aboQt  a  mile  from  the  city  gates.      Nothing,  as  Mr.  Dallaway 
observes,*  can  exceed  either  the  plan  or  elevation  of  the  ori* 
ginal  in  simplicity  and  commodiousness ;  and  its  elegance  baa 
often  excited  a  desire  of  imitation,  and  an  ambitHMi  of  im- 
provement, which,  however,  have  always  failed,  §nm  a  viola- 
tion of  that  simplicity  which  is  the  real  cause  of  all  the  excel- 
lence of  Palladio's  work.      In  this  point  he  considers  Mere- 
worth  Castle  and  Footscray  Place  in  Kent,  which,  like  this  of 
Nuthall  temple,  are  imitations  of  the  Villa  Capra,  to  have  to- 
tally failed ;  as  the  four  porticoes  which  constitute  their  decora- 
tion are  ill  adapted  to  our  climate,  whilst  the  filling  them  up 
with  apartments,  which  has  in  some  instances  taken  place,  is 
still  a  greater  solecism  in  architecture. 

Gretsley  parish  is  the  largest  in  the  county  ;  and  is  said  to 
be  twenty  miles  in  circumference.  It  has  a  handsome  spacious 
church  with  a  lolly  embattled  tower,  in  which  are  four  good 
bells.  The  whole  is  kept  in  good  order ;  but  the  value  of  the 
living  is  said  to  be  very  unequal  to  iU  extensive  duties.  There 
are  some  monumenU  of  the  Rollestons,  Millingtons,  &c.  but 
none  remaining  of  the  ancient  possessors,  pf  whom  the  Canti- 
lupes  had  license  to  embattle  their  mansion  house.  Thb  is  to- 
tally 
e  Dtllsfrsj  on  the  httu 


KOTTIKGHAMSBIRK. 


16% 


tally  destroyed^  with  the  exception  of  some  fragments  of  the 
aDcient  walls. 

«  Northwest  from  Watnow  is  the  castle  of  Griesly,  the  an- 
cient possessions  of  the  lord  Zouch ;  and  before  of  the  lord 
Cantilupe,  who  married  the  daughter  and  heiress  of  Sir  Hagh 
of  Griesly.  The  same  is  now  the  possession  of  Sir  John  Sa- 
vage, whose  ancestor  had  it  hy  the  gift  of  Henry  7lh/'^ 

Bemtvakt  "within  the  park  of  Griesley  which  is  north  from 
the  castle,  was  built  an  abbey  in  the  time  of  Edward  3d,  by 
the  lord  Cantilupe,  called  BeauTale.in  Latin  htlla  vailis,  which 
Bridget,  now  Countess  of  Bedford^  hath  by  Sir  Richard  Morrison 
her  first  husband,  the  reversion  belonging  to  Charles  Morrison 
her  Sonne/' t  Tanner,  in  his  Monasticon,  tells  us  that  this  wat 
a  Carthysian  priory ,  of  a  prior  and  twelve  monks ;  they  seem* 
also,  to  have  been  jolly  fellows,  as  John  of  Gaunt  granted 
them  a  ton  of  wine  annually^  as  long  as  he  lived,  a  certain 
mode  of  securing  their  prayers  for  his  longevity.  They  were 
also  indebted  to  Edward  Baliol,  the  Scottish  monarch,  for  a 
grant  of  sufficient  timber  for  its  first  erection 4  W  this  place» 
once  so  important  that  the  prayers  of  its  inhabitants  were  in* 
cesMiiUy  sought  by  numerous  benefactors,  nothing  now  re- 
mains except  some  tottering  walls  that  contain  nothing  either 
picturesque  or  illustrative  of  antiquity,  and  are  now  merely  ap- 
plied to  form  the  common  offices  of  a  farm  yard. 

Kimberley  village  is  within  this  parish,  and  its  situation  scat* 
tered  over  a  rising  ground,  intermingled  with  trees  and  hedge?, 
may  be  considered  as  even  romantic  in  some  points  of  view. 
It  had  a  chapel,  now  in  ruins,  and  going  rapidly  to  decay ;  and 
which,  not  being  noticed  by  Thoroton,  may  in  fact  be  of  a 
posterior  date  to  his  work. 

Eastwood  stands  upon  the  vory  verge  of  the  county,  and 
is  in  the  coal  country;  of  which  there  are  extensive  mines  at 
various  depths^  from  5  yards  to  50*  These  coaU  contain  a 
~        t  variety  of  specimens  of  antediluvian  remains,  particubr* 

L2  ly 

'  Harleian  Col.  Sb%  53.  f  Ibid*        |  Leland.  CoL  VuK  h  64. 


rilffQltAMSRTftS. 


\y  ol  FcrnR  anfother  vegetables.  The  village  itself  is  scat- 
tered over  some  broken  ground,  wiih  a  modern  built  cburch  of 
brick,  and  of  course  possessing  no  ancient  inoniiment) ;  and 
those  who  ch use  to  gossip  with  the  "  sage  chroniclers'^  of  the 
place,  will  be  told  a  wonderful  story  of  a  farmer  being  swat 
lowed  up  alive  in  the  parlour  of  the  village  alehouse,  whilst 
vfz&  swallowing  a  cup  of  ale»  to  the  great  surprize  of  the  host^ 
who  by  this  means  discovered  that  his  humble  raan^ston  wai 
built  on  an  exhausted  coal  pit* 

CossAL  is  a  small  village  to  the  southward  uf  Eastwood.  Here 
is  an  hospital  founded  by  the  ancient  family  of  Wil lough by^ 
for  four  men,  who  have  coals«  clothing,  and  two  shilUngs  pc^ 
week,  for  their  support.  Near  it  is  a  small  chipel  in  which  is  a 
vault  of  that  family.  About  the  year  1780,  on  the  death  of 
Miss  Willoughby  of  Nottingham,  this  ancient  vault,  which  had 
not  been  used  for  many  years,  was  opened  for  her  interment ; 
when  the  workmen  entered  it,  they  were  surprized  by  a  lumi- 
nous appearance  at  the  further  end,  which  suddenly  dtsappear*^^^ 
ed  on  the  approach  of  a  candle.  As  soon  as  their  superstitioo^j^^^l 
alarm,  however,  gave  way  to  their  curiosity,  this  ptiraculous 
light  was  discovered  to  proceed  from  the  animal  phosphorus  of 
a  human  sculU  covered  with  a  greenish  coloured  mould  in  a 
high  state  of  putrescence. 

Marshy  which  is  about  one  mile  from  Cossal,  ^ecms  to  be  the 
place  described  by  Tanner  as  having  a  Benedictine  cell  or  cha* 
pel  of  St.  Thomas,  but  whose  scite  wa^  then  considered  by  himr 
and  since  that  by  bis  copyists,  as  unknown. 

Strruev  '*in  the  west  part  of  the  couiUy  called  the  Sand^ 
where  the  little  river  Erwash  makes  ila  way  to  the  Trent,  an- 
ciently Strettci^h,  gave  name  and  re^jldence  to  the  knightly  fa- 
mily of  the  Strel leys,  (commonly  called  Sturley,)  one  of  the 
oldest  and  most  famous  in  the  county/'^  It  is  now  the  pro* 
perty  of  T  W.  Edge.  Esq.  who  has  a  nmdcrn  seat  in  the  parish* 
The  village  itself  is  small;  the  church  is  dedicated  to  All  Saints^ 

and 
*  C«ii}dcQ*f  BritDnnia« 


NOTTIirOHilMStirRS. 


165 


and  is  kept  parttcularly  neat,  especially  the  chancel ;  owing  in 
Ipft  great  measure  to  the  attention  of  the  patron,  who  has  present- 
a  very  elegant  modern  painted  east  window,  of  various 
criptural  subjects.  Some  of  the  old  armorial  glass  is  still  in 
ood  preservation,  which,  with  the  antique  font,  may  be  seen 
In  the  plate:*  to  Throsby^s  edition  of  Thoroton,  Two  old  altar 
monuments  still  exi^t  in  the  chance!;  one  has  no  inscription; 
the  other  is  of  the  date  of  1500:  there  are  also  some  rery  neat 
ppulchral  menioriaLs  of  the  family  of  the  present  possessor, 
rhosc  Seat  is  near  lo  the  church,  a  plain  building  of  three  sto- 
ries in  height,  with  a  small  projection  in  the  centre  of  the 
principal  front,  ornamented  with  a  pediment.  The  pleasure 
grounds  are  as  yet  in  their  infancy  ;  but  laid  out  in  a  good  style^ 
and  derive  much  of  their  beauty  from  views  of  the  surrounding 
scenery,  which  consists  of  romantic  vallies  and  pleasing 
iroodlands  interspersed  with  all  the  elegancies  of  culiivalion* 

BtLBO ROUGH  parish  has  a  church  dedicated  to  St.  Martin^  on 
a  very  small  scale,  but  containing  some  monumenlalfloorstones 
which  may  amuse  the  hunter  after  genealogy.  It  also  possesses 
some  coal  mines,  where  that  fossil  is  met  with  at  the  depth  of 
one  hundred  yards;  hut  it  is  principally  remarkable  for  con- 
tatning  the  hamlet  of  Broxiow,  which  gives  name  to  the  hun- 
dred, and  was  a  place  of  great  consequence  in  the  Saxon  times. 
Here  is  an  ancient  manor  bouse,  prettily  embowered  in  trees, 
but  much  of  its  picturesque  elTect  destroyed  by  some  uncouth 
additions  of  a  modern  date. 

Radford  is  a  manufacturing  village  at  a  very  short  distance 
from  Nottingham  on  the  road  to  Wcdhiton,  with  a  populaiion 
amounting  to  3447,  )t  has  a  small  church  dedicated  lo  St. 
Peter  ;  and  the  village  contains  some  good  houses,  particularly 
one  beMmging  to  Mr.  Elliot  of  Nottingham,  where  ihe  grounds 
are  a  most  excellent  miniature  of  park  and  garden  scenery  on  a 
larger  scale.  In  this  neighbourhood  are  many  coal  pit**  in 
which  the  coals  are  dug  out  in  large  masses;  and  it  is  said  that 
they  possess  the  inflanimable  princjpli:  or  gas  in  a  greater  pro- 

I*  3  porliou 


166  VOTTIVOHAMSBIEE. 

portion  4htii  any  other  species  of  the  fossil  in  the  kingdom* 
The  pleasantest  ramble  for  the  tourist  in  this  part  of  the  envi* 
roofl  of  Nottingham,  after  passing  the  heavy  sandy  road  which 
leads  to  Radford,  is  to  pass  through  that  village,  and  to  cross 
the  Erwash  canal  and  the  river  Lene,  along  whose  banks  he 
may  trace  some  very  pleasing  scenery.  He  then,  leaving  Wol- 
laton  parkwall  on  his  left,  arrives  at  the  village  of  Wollatov, 
in  which  there  is  a  very  ancient  church,  well  deserving  of  at- 
tention, and  dedicated  to  St.  Leonard,  with  a  very  good  spire, 
containing  six  bells.  This  church  is  very  neatly  pewed,  and 
has  a  small  organ;  in  it  is  also  the  vault  of  the  Middleton 
family,  but  there  are  no  modem  monuments :  iJf  the  ancient 
ones,  however,  described  by  Thoroton  are  in  good  preserva* 
tion.  Amongst  these,  is  one  to  Richard  Willoughby,  Esq.  and 
his  wife,  who  died  about  1481:  it  resembles  an  ancient  fire^ 
place  in  a  Gothic  hall ;  and  in  the  centre  is  a  large  grating, 
inside  of  which  lies  the  representation  of  a  skeleton  on  the  floor. 
Here  is  also  a  monument  of  Henry  Willoughby,  in  armour, 
with  two  female  figures  on  one  side,  which  lie  in  a  line,  and  are 
just  his  length.  He  is  in  the  attitude  of  prayer ;  and  the  lower 
part  of  the  altar  contains  four  figures,  two  of  which  are  sons  in 
armour,  and  two  daughters  in  the  costume  of  the  time.  Three 
Gothic  arches  in  the  body  of  the  tomb  shew  a  statue  of  a  corpse 
in  grave  clothes.  The  date  is  1528,  no  less  than  eighty-three 
years  before  the  institution  of  Baronets;  yet  the  inscription  on  the 
tomb  has  "  miles  pro  corpore  regis,  Sfc.  BaronettM,"  which,  how- 
ever, Thoroton  considers  as  a  mistake  for  "  Bannerettus,''  and 
of  which  several  other  instances  might  be  adduced. 

The  village  is  extremely  rural;  and  in  it  is  a  neat  villa  look* 
ing  house  with  pleading  grounds,  belonging  to  Mr.  Martin 
Steward  to  ibe  Middleton  estates.  Leaving  the  village,  the 
ro  id  leads  to  the  Erwash  Canal,  along  whose  towing  path  there 
is  a  very  pleasant  ramble,  by  some  extensive  coal  pits^  from 
whence  we  cross  a  common,  to  the  Bramcote  Hills,  near  which 
is  a  modern  built  house^  of  John  Longdon,  Esq,  called  Bramcote 

House* 


KOTTlKOBASISItlET^. 


167 


Houic,  As  yet  the  grotinds  and  plaiuatioDs  are  ki  a  very 
roiigb  state ;  but  as  ihe  hiila  at  the  back  of  the  house  are  a  very 
pktLitesque  range,  tt  prumiseSf  when  completed,  to  be  a  place 
ofcoiiKsderable  inlertst  ta  the  admirer  of  ronil  beauty. 

Between  these  hillii,  on  the  brow  nf  a  rising  ground.  Is  a  Very 
carious  and  conspicnous  object,  called  the  Hemlockstonb* 
Thiii  \s  an  insulated  rugged  mas^  of  rock,  or  reddish  ssnd^tone^ 
upwardg  of  thirty  feet  high,  and  consisting  of  very  thiu  laminm 
dipping  to  the  west;  its  extreme  breadth  from  north  to  south 
is  about  twelve  feet  at  the  base^  but  .spreading  at  about  two 
thirds  of  its  elevation ;  and  it^i  thickness  below  is  abuyt  four  feet, 
Inouiline,  it  bears  some  slight  rcicn^b lance  to  a  mushroom,  ami 
is  evidently  wJfring  away,  from  the  eilects  of  the  weather*  Dr. 
St»ke]ey  is  of  opinion,  that  it  is  merely  the  remnant  of  a 
quarry,  the  stone  of  which  has  been  dug,  or  cut,  from  around 
ii;  an  idea  not  improbable,  as  it  consists  of  the  siame  materials 
as  the  adjoining  hills,  though  in  much  thinner  layers. 

Bkamcote,  was  long  the  reside ntc  and  prnperfy  of  rhe  JFaiid- 
l^y  family;  and  in  the  church  lies  Henry  Handley,  Esq.  uhose 
memory  it  preserved  in  Notttnghain  by  his  various  charitiei;, 
as  well  as  at  Bramcote^  where  he  left  5oL  per  onnum,  for  a 
preuchingand  resident  minister,  and  5L  per  annum  to  the  poor; 
he  died  in  1650*  This  place  is  only  further nutiteable  for  har» 
ing,  at  one  period  of  hts  hfc,  been  the  residence  of  iJUben 
Wakefield,  who  :^ettled  here  in  oider  to  establish  a  school,  but 
without  success.  The  tourist  now  comes  into  the  Derby  road, 
and  turning  towards  Nottinghauu  soon  arrives  at  the  park* 
gate  of 

W^LtATTosi  Hall,* 

This  gale  is  a  handsome  elevation  cif  stone«  with  a  neat  lodge, 
and  light  iron  railing;  and  the  approach  to  the  house  is  through 
a  noble  winding  avenue  of  hme-trees,  nearly  a  miie  in  length* 
The  park  i«  eactensive,  and  well  slocked  with  deer,  hares,  aad 
ill«  various  domestic  animals;  it  aUo  contains  spacious  sheets  of 

L  4  water, 

*  iu  aucicnt  aimc  ««s  01  a  vet  ton,  but  has  l&ng  Lee  a  ihus  corrnpitiJ, 


168 


¥OTTIKGtlAM»HlR£» 


water,  supplied  with  a  variety  of  lisb,  aud  enlivened  by  swans 

and  other  aquatic  birds;  and  is  broken  into  gentle  swells,  weH 
wooded  with  oak  and  elm,  and  at  intervals  admitting  some  very 
picturesque  and  extensive  views  of  the  surrounding  landscape* 
A  fine  sweep  leads  round  to  the  north  front  of  the  house^  which 
stands  on  a  knoll,  and  exhibits  a  most  magnificent  appearance 
e?en  at  a  considerable  distance^  lofty  and  antique,  and  bearing 
some  resenibhmce  to  the  august  lower  of  some  ancient  carJ 
thedraJ, 

*'  Bosotn'd  high  in  ruftcd  irc«.'*- — 

It  U  of  the  fashion  of  Queen  Elizabeth's  time,  or  rather  Of 
that  ^hion  then  just  beginning  to  be  introducei),  and  i^in  the 
Italian  sty  le»  but  of  Gothic  arrangementi  It  is  square^wrlh  four 
large  towers*  adorned  with  pinnacles ;  and  in  the  centre,  the  hodyJ 
of  the  house  rises  higher,  with  projecting  coped  turrets  at  the  cor- 
ners. The  front  and  .sides  are  adorned  with  square  projecting  Ioni€ 
pilasters;  the  square  stone  windows  are  without  tracery;  and 
the  too  great  uniformity  of  the  whole  is  broken  by  oblongi 
niches,  circular  ones  filled  with  bust"!  of  philosophers,  em- 
perors, empresses,  &c.  and  by  some  very  rich  mouldings. 

The  house  is  built  entirely  of  freestone,  which  came  hom\ 
Ancaster  in   Lincolnshire,  in  exchange  for  pit  coal  from   the  J 
estate.      Sir  Francis  Willoughby,   Knt.   built   the  bouse,  an4| 
was  also  the  dcssigner  of  the   plan,  according  to  his  own  laslef 
but  the  whole  was  superintended  by  John  Thorpe,  a  ct^lebratc 
artist  of  that  time. 

Camden,  in  the  first  edition  of  his  Britannia,  rather  pays  thli 
house  and  its  builder  a  compViincnt;  but,  in  his  last,  he  censureij 
hts  niotivea  for  erecting  it;  and  asscrtsf  that,  by  the  time  it  wafj 
finished,  it  had  sunk  three  Lordships.     Again,  in  speaking  of 
IVollaton,  he   says,    •'  where  in   our   time.    Sir   Francis  WiU 
loughby,  at  great  ex  pence,  in  a  foolish  display  of  his  weaUb 
built  a  magnificent  and   most  elegant  house,  with  a  fine  prosi»| 
pect,"    A  later  critic,*  speaking  of  this  house,  seems  inclined  1 

t<»l 
#  Lard  Orford,  VoL  III,  p.  144. 


VOTTlfrORAMSHIRS. 


16|9 


>  carry  its  style  of  builtling  to  a  much  earlier  date  than  the 
reign  of  Elizabeth,  when  it  is  supposed  to  have  been  first  in- 
iroduced  :  hts  says,  **  the  taste  of  all  these  stately  mansiom  was 
that  bastard  style  which  intervened  between  Gothic  and 
Grecian  architecture;  or  which, perhaps,  wai*  the  style  that  had 
been  invented  for  the  houses  of  the  nobility >  when  they  first 
ventured*  on  the  settlement  of  the  kingdom  after  the  termina- 
tion of  the  quarrel  between  the  Rosea,  to  abandon  their  fortified 
dungeons^  and  consult  convenience  and  magnificence;  for  I 
am  persuaded,  that  what  we  call  Gothic  architecture  was  con- 
fined solely  to  religious  buildings,  and  never  entered  into  the 
decoration  of  private  houses*"  This  is  rather  a  curious  position ; 
but  if  the  noble  author  merely  means  to  assert,  that  private 
houses  were  never  built  in  the  cathedral  style,  we  will  agree 

irith  him,  even  although   his  own  house  at  Strawberry  hill 

F|brms  an  exception  to  the   rule.     At  the  same  t'iroe,  it  cannot 

be  clt^uietl,  that  the  castellated  mansions  of  the   nobitity  and 

gentry  were  built  in  the   Gothic,  though  not  exactly  in  the 

'ccle4ia$ikal  Gothic  manner;  and  it  is  as  evident  that  the 
style  of  Wollaton  Hall  was  not  introduced  immediately  after 
the  contest  of  the  Roses,  nor  even  in  the  reign  of  Henry  the 
eighth,  as  the  buildings  of  that  period,  of  which  indeed  only 
a  few  remain,  consist  of  ranges  of  low  aparimenis,  with  g^uare 
framfid  windows  with  mullions  ami  iracery,  und  ihe  whole 
generally  added  to  the  castellatetl  mansion  of  former  times:* 
and  as  we  are,  perhaps^  to  date  the  introduction  of  the  Goikie 
My  le  from  the  taste  and  observation  of  our  wandering  Crusaders, 
go  fur  this  introduction  of  the  reviving  arts  in  Italy,  engrafted 
upon  ihe  former  style,  are  we  indebted  to  that  spirit  of  ramb- 
ling over  the  continent,  which  had  become  so  fashionable  in  the 
tune  of  Elizabeth,  and  even  in  the  latter  part  of  Hjrnry% 
reign* 

Having 

•A  verjr  correct  cjiample  of  llus  poiition  maj  he  found  lit  If^vcrcnitk 
in  Kcnti  near  Taitbridgc,  Ihe  rc&idctice  of  Sir  Thoiun*  lip)c^ii>  and  often  the 
icene  of  llcnry*!>  courtship  with  the  f»ir  A^nne. 


170 


NOTTlNGHAMSfllHE. 


ig  tht>s  examined  the  ouUide  of  this  augtist  m&tisiofii 

Lwe  shall  proceed  to  the  interior,  in  the  examination  of  whtch 

rwcwerc  more  fortunate  than  Mr.  Bray,  who  obserycs  in  hi« 

todr,  '*  so  far  may  be  seen,  but  strangers  are  nut  permitted  to 

Ltee  the  inside,  cTcn  when   the  family   is  absent;  a  piece  of 

pride,  or  gloomy  inbospitality,  which   for  the  credit  of  our 

country  is  rare."     It  is  to  be  r«;gretted,  that  a  man  of  so  much 

I  taste,  and  so  capable  of  describing  this  residence,  should  thus 

have  been  dti^ppointed ;  we,  however,  met  with  no  difficulty 

in  procuring  admission;  but  even  found  the  attention  and  ciri- 

ility  of  the  domestics  redoubled,  when  the  intention  of  the  visit 

l^as  known.    We  shall   then  at  once,    in  company   with  our 

Iteaders,  ascend  a  handsome  flight  of  steps,  which  leads  to  an 

Snipanee  hall,  in  which  is  an  armoury  for  the  county,  consisting 

»fa  number  of  musquets  with  their  accoutitrments  all  disposed 

lln  a  regular  and  ornamental  manner.     From  hence  we  enter 

II^LL,  which  is  a  lofly  and  spacious  apartment,  on  a  plan  and 
jirrangement  strictly  Gothic,  but  fitted  up  and  ornamented  en* 
Itirely  in  the  ItsiHan  style  of  revived  architi^cture.     It  has  an 
^it  flat  ceiling,  supported  by  oaken  brackets  of  light  and  ^ 
workmanship;  at  the  upper  end  is  a  gallery,  and  the 
crcen  is  supported  by  Doric  pillars.     Under  the  beams  are  a 
Itaricly  of  devices,  of  satyrs,   caryatides,  &c,  according  to  the 
taste  of  the  times;  and  in  the  gallery  are  a  handsome  clock, and  3 
[in  organ.   The  walls  and  ceiling  are  painted  by  La  Guirc;  and  < 
[there  ore  several  good   pictures  by  the  best  masters,     Neptune^ 
ind  Amphitrite,     Rape  of  Eurtipa*    These  are  both  hy  Luca^ 
\€iryrd(mi.     Game,  fruits,  and  a  dog  most  exquisitely  e^ecuted*^ 
I  Wolves  and  dogs.     Schneider,     Three  landscapes ;  one  cattle  in  < 
Ifreposc  amidst    ruin,^ ;    travellers    reposing    beneath    a    rocky 
Icavcni,  with  cattle,  and    ruins;    travellers   \vith  their   flocks, 
kItOM  di  Tivolu     Charles  the  first;  a  good  copy  from  Vandyke* 
[Ancient  painting  containing  a  birds  eye  view  of  Wollaton  Hall, 
'  and  gardens.     Mere  is  also  a  good  bust  of  Bacchus  in  white 

marble ; 


NOTTtKOIIAMSIIlIll:. 


171 


fiiBrble;  and  there  are  imitations  of  Elks  head^  but  with  real 
horns,  over  every  door.  Near  to  the  gallery  h  a  family  piece, 
in  which  is  introduced  Sir  Hugh  Willouphby,  whose  portrait 
we  shall  have  further  occasion  to  mention* 

The  Gallerit  contains  some  fkraily  portraits,  a  large  paint- 
ing of  Joseph  and  his  brethren,  and  a  piece  of  still  life. 

The  Saloon  is  a  very  elegant  and  airy  apartment,  containing 
some  good  pictures.  A  most  masterly  production  of  dogs,  and 
a  wild  boar.  Schftcider,  Four  family  pictures  of  the  Wil* 
lou^hbys,  in  (he  time  of  Elizabeth  ;  the^e  are  Sir  Francis  and 
his  lady,  their  son  and  daughter.  First  Lord  Middleton* 
His  Liidy,  Large  view  of  the  house  and  park  at  Middlctom 
Though  the  paintings  in  this  apartment  deserve  examination* 
yet  the  stranger's  attention  %vill  be  principally  directed  to  the 
windiiws,  from  whence  there  is  a  most  enchanting  prospect  of 
the  plcasare  grounds  and  their  various  ornaments  of  buildings 
and  water,  backed  by  fine  groves,  in  which  are  seen  shady 
walks,  and  all  the  beauties  of  garden  scenery. 

The  Principal  Staircask,  is  elegantly  painied  in  fresco. 
In  the  centre  is  a  Roman  sacrifice  to  Apollo,  in  which  the  por- 
traits of  several  of  the  family  are  introduced.  The  ceiling  re- 
presents Heaven,  with  a  toll  assembly  of  the  Gods;  and  Pro- 
metheus is  seen  stealing  the  sacred  spark  of  fire.  On  thelefl 
side  of  the  staircase,  he  is  represented  animating  the  figure  • 
the  story  is  here  rcuArkably  well  told,  and  the  surprize  mixed 
with  joy,  wonder,  and  gratitude,  so  strongly  marked  in  the 
countenance  of  the  animated  statue,  seems  a  counterpart  of  the 
feelings  of  our  general  mother,  so  admirably  delineated  by- 
Milton*  On  the  right  side,  the  unfortunate  Philosopher,  for 
such,  when  divested  of  allegory»  we  may  believe  Prometheus  to 
have  been,  is  seen  chained  to  the  rock  by  Vulcan,  whilst  Mer- 
cury gives  the  orders,  and  the  whole  groupe  are  surrounded 
by  nymphs,  graces,  &;c.  The  whole  aflibrding  an  excellent 
allegorical  lesson;  for  though  Prometheus  may  have  been  the 
first,  he  is  not  thu  last  who,  after  animating  a  female  statue,  and 

having 


1/2 


HOTTiFGBAMSHiaS. 


having  his  chains  rtreted  by  the  Grefcna  Green  Vulcan»  hai 

found  bis  heart  torn  by  a  Vulture  1 

The  DiSiMo  Rooait  up  sUirs  has  two  most  magni Been t  glafistv 
and  has  some  Tery  capital  family  pictures  Sir  Richard  WiW 
looghby.  Lord  Chief  Justice  for  the  space  of  twenty -three 
years>  in  tUe  reign  of  Edward  the  third.  Sir  Hugh  WiUoughby* 
frozen  to  death  in  the  North  Seas,  in  15M.  He  went  out  for 
the  purpose  of  making  discoveries  in  the  Northern  Ocean,  with 
three  ships  fitted  out  at  the  private  expense  of  the  society  of 
merchants^  who  had  joined  in  company,  in  order  to  prosecute 
the  search  after  a  norlh-ea&t  passage  to  India.  Having  pr 
ceeded  as  far  as  Spitzbergen,  the  Edward  Banaventnrr,  con 
manded  by  Captain  Richard  Chancellor,  was  separated  from 
the  squadron  in  a  gale  of  wind  ;  soon  after  which  Sir  Hugh 
discovered  land,  but  w^&  unable  to  examine  it  on  account  of  the 
ice  and  shuahiess  of  the  water.  He  considered  it  as  being  in 
72  degrees  of  north  latitude;  and  it  may  have  been  the  Coa 
of  Nova  Zemblaj  or  the  island  of  Kolgen.  Sailing  from  thenci 
to  the  westward^  he  came  at  length  to  a  river  and  harbour, 
nvhere  he  determined  to  pass  the  winter;  bui  not  having  a  suf- 
ficient quantity  of  wood  for  fuel,  and  being  perhaps  attackc 
by  the  scurvy,  he  and  his  v\  hole  crow  perished^  though  it  af 
peared  by  the  papers  which  they  left  behind  them  thai  they 
were  sliil  alive  in  the  munth  of  January  1554.  This  harbour  is 
said  to  have  been  called  Ariina;  and  tli^re  is  a  river  of  that 
name  in  Russian  Lapland^  To  this  unhappy  evetU«  ThomsQA 
alludes  in  his  *'  Winter  :" — 


-Tyiherabte  they  ! 


Who,  lirre  ctiianglcd  in  tl«?  galfierinic:  ice^ 
Tiikc  their  Imt  look  of  ilie  dcircnding  aun  ; 
Whilr,  full  ordfiiih,  »nd  fiprcp  witli  ietifofd  frosty 
The  long  long  niglit,  iiicttinbrni  oVr  their  h^ads, 
YAh  hurriblo.     Suth  wnd  ih«  Brjton*»  fjite, 
A>  with  Cir^r  prow,  (whiu  hitvc  nut  Jlritoii*  diir\P) 
l\v  iuT  (he  jjjissugr  *Qugbt,  ain;inptcd  jujiCc 


^llOTtlKOBAMSRinE. 


m 


Si>  much  in  ftin^  tnd  seemmg  to  be  sliat 
By  jealous  nature  with  cterriB!  burs, 
lb  these  feli  re%wm,  in  AnitM  cnughr^ 
And  to  (he  stony  deep  his  idle  shit» 
Immediate  seurd,  be  mth  }u%  hapless  crew* 
Each  full  exerted  at  his  sevur:il  task. 
Froze  into  statues ;    to  the  cordage  glued 
The  iulou  and  the  pilot  to  the  lieku.'* 


I 


The  poet  has  Indeed  made  a  copious  use  of  the  pott's  Iiceuce  by 
exaggeration;  but  it  is  impossible  to  look  on  the  picture  with- 
9^t  feeling  many  of  the  sensations  that  arise  from  the  delmea- 
tiotL 

The  Drawing  Room  is  plain  but  elegant.  The  pictures  are, 
a  fine  view  of  Notiitighara,  from  ihe  Trent  j  good  portraits  ol' 
ktc  Lord  Middleton  aitd  his  lady  ;  an  old  lady  by  SirGodfnry 
Kneller ;  two  sea  pieces ;  two  Indian  paintings;  and  a  humourous 
piece  of  two  boys  eating  hasty  pudding.* 

The  BiLLi^iiD  Room  is  well  adapted  for  Us  declared  purposf 
and  has  a  few  good  paintings.  Over  the  fire  place,  is  what  U 
called  the  original  of  the  Earl  of  Strailbrd,  and  his  secretary, 
Ciie  night  beFore  his  execution ;  there  are  several  pieces  of  this 
kind,  however*  which  claim  the  meed  of  ortginaliiy.  Speaking 
of  Wentworih  in  Yorksiiire,  Gilpin  says,  '*  the  original  of  Lord 
Strafibrd  and  his  secretary  is  said  to  be  here.  Its  pretensions 
are  disputed;  though  I  think  it  has  merit  enough  to  niaSntairi 
them  any  where.*'  Whether  this  at  Wollatun  ^  really  the  ori- 
ginal* or  only  a  copy,  we  will  not  pretend  to  decide;  but  the 
picture  certainty  has  considerable  merit;  and  is  no  doubt  a  juil 
likeness  of  that  unfortunate  nobleman,  whose  true  character 
has  perhaps  never  been  justly  appreciated ;  for  whilst  the 
violent  factions,  which  occupied  the  attention,  and  directed  the 
conduct  and  sentiments,  of  his  cotemporaries,  still  con  tin  oe  by 
their  remembrance  to  divide  posterity  into  his  absolute  censarcrs 
or  uncjualified  admirers,  both  his  enemies  and  friends  b^vc  tjjo 

lit  uch 

•  Soine  aJtcfation  hAiiiace  tHken  jiUce  tvilh  respect  to  these  picture*. 


174 


SOrriYGQilMtBlBl. 


Viicb  confounded  bit  own  raerits  and 

die  UumctiofiA  in  wbicb  be  w^  hi  i 

idfibldf  he  exprewed  bii  late  far  kk  camtHtwf,  loii  Ar  Hi 

■overeign ;  bat  he  expreaied  bis  feart  thit  it  aogvred  ID  §m  lk» 

povple's  hapfmcH!.  Uiii*  to  write  the  commtmxmem  mi  mw^ 

§Km  in  letten  of  blood* 

Atone  end  of  the  rooio,  1$  a  large  piece  of  lf«it# 
§afDe»  Yegeublet,  &c.  ettber  an  original  of,  or  a  good  cayy 
Mckmader*      At  tbts  other  end,  is  a  very  corioits  coafiQiiliaB  oC 
lurfKape«  sea  bc)cb«  rocks,  &c.  in  the  centxe  is  a 
ietitly  a  portrait  \  there  is  also  a  Sherman  with  hia 
aome  fish  remarkably  well  done. 

IlieS&coNDAaY  Staircase,  h  ornamented  with 
palntingf*  Landscape  and  buifaloes ;  these  anioials 
in  the  park.  Ttie  father  of  the  present  lord.  Se¥eral  Itach 
paintings*  particularly  a  most  excellent  market  piece,  balias 
tea  piece,  a  copy  from  Ciaudt  Lorraine.  A  philoaofiller  wilb 
Gerard's  Herbal  before  blm  ;  a  painting  of  rery  ccmaidefaMc 
merit,  though  evidently  neglected.  The  infant  J<^, 
his  ofleriiig  to  the  child  Jesus,  with  Mary  and 
Isaac  and  Jacob  meeting.  Some  family  pictures  of  the  an 
line  of  Willoughby,  which  deserve  a  more  consptciMMii 
ation. 

The  Tisitor  is  now  led  by  a  circalir  staircase  in  one  of  tht 
lowcrf,  to  the  Upper  Room  or  Ball  Room,  which  rises  abote 
the  centre  of  the  roof.  At  present  it  is  little  more  than  a  lorn- 
her  room,  but  is  still  %vorth  seeing,  as  it  contains  some  carious 
ancient  arms,  some  fdinily  pictures  copies  uf  those  below,  and 
a  very  strange  one  of  Susannah  and  the  lihkTs,  literally  a  curi- 
osity. Here  is  also  an  antique  cabinet  of  Queen  Elizabeth's 
time*  with  a  variety  of  uncouth  figures  carved  on  it* 

In  two  of  the  turrets  there  are  neat  rooinaj  to  which  the  ap- 
proach is  from  the  roof  of  the  house^  from  whence  there  is  a 
most  delightful  and  extensive  prospect  of  the  well  wooded  park 
and  gardens,  in  which  the  w^atcr  and   bridge  have  a  very  fine 
9  I  ffect ; 


KOTTIlieilAMSIIfmS. 


175 


fir«ct ;  and  ibe  Would^  iogcih<fr  wltb  tb«  vale  of  Btlvoirj  add 
ranch  to  the  beauly  of  ilie  prospect^  contrasting  finelv  with  the 
ricti  foreground.  TUt  ornaments  of  the  roof  consist  principally 
of  a  number  of  statues  of  very  decent  execution^  and  in  remark- 
ably good  preservation ;  and  the  mode  of  arranging  the  chim- 
iiieii  it  well  worthy  the  notice  nf  the  architect,  springing  from 
the  corners  to  a  centre*  lo  as  to  appear  rather  designed  for 
ornament  than  u^. 

Uescendiiig  from  this  elevation,  the  Lishahy  is  the  next  ob- 
ject of  exauurtation.  It  is  a  long  room^  wainscotted  in  imitation 
of  oak,  with  a  good  selection  of  books  on  general  nubjects. 
Well  arranged.  Here  is  an  ancient  folio  Missal,  hig^^ly  illurut* 
Hated  ;  also  an  ancient  service  book  of  Woltaton  churchy  bought 
from  the  last  Catholic  rector  for  ten  marks,  containing  the  whole 
service  set  for  chanting  in  the  ancient  manner.  Henry,  the  fifth 
Lord  Midiiieton,  with  many  portraits  of  the  earlier  brancheiiof 
the  Willoughbys  are  in  this  apartment;  together  with  a  very 
curious  antique  cabinet,  ornamented  with  animals  and  flowers^ 
inlaid  in  mother  of  pearl. 

Leaving  the  house,  the  stranger  is  conducted  towards  the 
grounds,  when  he  passes  a  vt^ry  handsome  pile  of  stables  and 
other  exterior  offices,  erected  in  1774  :  in  the  front  is  a  pediment 
enriched  with  sculpture,  and  the  whole  are  on  a  large  scale,  and 
finished  even  in  a  style  ol  elegance*  Close  to  the  mausiun*  is 
the  ancient  pleasure  ground,  in  which  the  antique  style  is  pre- 
served, though  with  some  modern  alterations  and  additions : 
here  are  a  number  of  statues,  and  the  other  usual  ornaments  of 
such  places.  The  modern  flower,  and  kitchen  garden,  &c,  are 
at  some  distance  from  this,  and  completely  hid  in  wood,  so  as 
only  to  he  visible  from  the  upper  part  of  the  house.  In  the 
grounds  there  is  a  curious  sunnncr  house  in  the  Grotto  style, 
pannelkd  and  ceiled  with  looking  glasses,  and  ornamtnted  with 
paintings  and  shell  work*  Under  it  is  a  water  home,  formed 
completely  in  the  grotesque,  with  *hell  and  rock  work ;  but  as 

these 


176 


NOTTtN^CBAMSHIRE« 


these  arc  at  least  a  century  old,  much  of  their  former  grandeur 
is  gone, 

TftowELL  lies  between  Wollatoo,  and  the  verge  of  the  county; 
ttt$  nothing  more  than  a  scattered  village^  with  a  cbarch  dedi- 
cated to  St.  HeJen,  This  buildingt  though  consisting  of  a  nave 
and  side  aisles^  is  in  very  indifferent  preservation  ;  but  the  tower 
is  a  very  fine  object*  In  the  windows  of  the  chancel  are  many 
fragments  of  armorial  glass ;  some  of  the  ancient  stalls  remain, 
and  there  h  an  antique  and  capacious  font>  that  may  engage  the 
attention  of  the  antiquary.* 

STArLEFORD^   a  populous  village  engaged    in  the  stocking 
manufacture,  lies  about  a  mile  south  from  Trowel,   close  to  the 
Erwash  canaL    The   chapel  is  dedicated   to  Si,  Helen's,  and 
I  is  kept  in  very  good  order.    The  spire  has  a  set  of  five  bells, 
I  and  the  chapel  h  sufficiently  liirge  for  the  whole  parish,  having  , 
II  nave  and  two  side  aisles;  yet  the  love  of  variety  or  of  novelty, 
[even  in  religious  matters,  has  been  fallowed  by  the  establish- 
[ment  of  a  meeting  house,  upon  the  Wt-sleyan  principles.     The 
[whole  of  the  chapel  under^vcut  a  thorough  repair  in  1785  ;  and  J 
lit  is  pleasing  to  observe,  that  the  churchwardens  have  been  par- 
Iticularly   careful  to  preserve  the  ancieni  monuments,  some  of 
Iwhich  remain  lor  the  iamilies  of  Tevery  and  Willoughby,  and 
Itbere  are  also  some  handsome  tablets  for  the  Warrens 

STAPtEFOBO  Hall,  the  Jieat  of  the  Right  Honourable  Admiral 
^Sir  John  Borlase  Warren,  Bart,  and  K.  B.  is  situated  close  to 
the  village.  It  stands  low,  with  a  handsome  lawn  in  fronts 
i^tefulty  surrounded  with  ornamental  plantations*  The  house  is 
quite  in  a  plain  style,  and  was  rebuilt  by  the  gallant  proprietor, 
al)out  1797.  It  would  far  eKceed  our  limits  to  enter  on  his  bi- 
ography ;  the  pen  of  the  historian  must  deuil  his  exploits— but 

it 

*  The  Mftgna  Bntonniat  speaking  of  Trowel,  tajij  that   "  while  the  natif 

rSciiiprtfTglMOi  Lnd  m  \mn  here,  the  Prit*r  ha'J  tJjc  Itbcftj  of/rfe  vfttrrtn  m  blL 

tlie  ritmesnc  laiictt  belonging  to  them/* — a  thing  not  very  uncommon^  if  w* 

are  to  behete  all  (he  i lories  of  monks  titid  nuos,  so  prevftlcQt  mt  tht  time  of 

the  Hcf^irniftUoij. 


KOTTIKOHAJiASBtAS. 


.177 


il  is  a  fact  worth  recording  here,  that  on  his  engaging  in  the 
naval  service  as  niitlshipnian  of  the  Venus  frigate,  at  the  com- 
mencement of  the  American  war,  then  resuming  a  professional 
life,  to  Mrhich  be  was  much  attached,  he  performed  asingtilarand 
perhaps  romantic  action  that  betokened  a  munificence  truly 
princely,  by  going  to  the  Fleet  and  King's  Bench  prison  and  ac- 
tually releasing  all  the  officers  of  the  navy  detained  at  hoth^ 
out  of  his  own  private  fortune. 

Attcn&orougii,  which  we  presume  was  the  ancient  Aucntan^ 
lies  nearly  on  the  banks  of  the  Trent.  It  is  a  very  small  ril- 
lage«  not  containing  more  than  twenty  houses ;  yet  its  church  U 
Urge,  and  also  well  filled,  as  it  serves  for  Chi  I  well,  Touelon,* 
and  part  of  Bramcote*  It  is  dedicated  to  St«  Mary,  and  has 
some  armorial  glass,  as  well  as  rude  figures  on  the  capitals  of 
the  pillars  that  deserve  attention.  The  monumental  remaini 
are  but  few;  but  there  is  a  curious  little  brass  only  eight  inches 
long,  of  which  a  plate  may  be  found  in  1  hrosby'i  edition  of 
Thoroton, 

But  this  place  is  remarkable,  as  having  given  birth  to  Henry 
Iabton  the  regicide,  and  son  in  law  of  Cromwell.  He  was 
eldest  son  of  Gervase  Ireton,  Esq.  and  brother  to  Sir  John  Ire- 
ton,  Lord  Mayor  of  London,  in  1()58.  He  was  a  gentleman 
commoner  of  Trinity  College  Oxford,  in  1G29^  and  at  the  age 
of  19  took  one  degree  in  arts;  but*  ai  Wood  tells  us  in  his 
Athenct,  left  the  university  without  completing  that  degree  by 
determination^  at  which  ttme  he  had  the  character  in  that 
college^  of  a  stubborn  and  saucy  fellow  towards  the  seniors,  and 
therefore  his  company  was  not  at  all  %viinting.  Afterwards  he 
went  to  the  Middle  Temple^  learned  some  grounds  of  the  com- 
Bion  law,  became  a  raan  of  a  working  and  k^horioos  brain, 
which,  in  the  end,  led  him  into  error.  When  the  rebellion  broke 
out,  he  as  a  person  naturtd  to  mischtef^  took  up  arms  against 
the  king,  was  a  rtcruUtr  in  the  Long  Parliament,  eitiier  for  the 

Vol,  XIL  M  county 

*  It  is  ftConoQs  mistake  of  Dr.  Thoniiis  Fuller^  in  hii  Ecckiiastjcal  Htstc^ry, 
to  conofund  iliii  pk^Q  nicli  Towioiilleld  in  Yorkftbire^ 


180 


VOTTtllOItAM^nfflS* 


tingham  durmg  its  coatinuancej  ami  also  that  all  persons  Comitig 
from,  or  going  lo  it*  should  be  free  from  all  processes  of  la*; 
TUis  fLiir  still  ccmtinucs  for  horned  caUle^  sheep^  and  bops;  and 
there  is  another  on  the  WcdnestJay  in  Whitsun-weekj  by  grant  j 
of  Charles  the  second.  At  the  dissolution,  the  abbey  demesne 
was  gr.inted  to  Sir  William  Hicks;  it  iifterward*  came  to  tb« 
first  Duke  of  Richmond,   who  sold  it  to  the  ancestor  of  ■ 

Gregory,  Esq.  the  preienl   possessor,   in  the  reign  of  Charts 
the  second. 

The  vilUge,  iwhich  at  the  present  day  consists  of  a  long  street^ 
is  a  pleasant  evening**  walk  from  Nottingham,  being  extreoiejy 
neat  and  rubral,  and  liavinir  several  gentlemen's  seats  on  tht 
banks  of  the  rivrr. 

Thechurcli,  dedicated  to  the  Holy  Trinity,  is  very  saiatU  aoi 
seems  to  have  been  built  oti  part  of  the  ancient  hospital,  ailer  ' 
the  dt!Siruction  o]    the  priory*    It  bears,  however^  high  marks 
of  antiquity  itk  many  pans,  and  near  the  reading  desk  there  k 
an  ancient  ini>Jiamental  stone  on  which  a  cross  and  chalice  art 
carved  with  the  date  of  133S^  but  this  may  have  been  remoTed  j 
from  the  original  I  church.     The  font   is  very  large,  being  tw# 
,lV-et  six  inches  in  height  j  and  is  remarkable  from  its  being  in 
the  form  of  a  parallelogram,  as  if  intended  for  complete  immer« 
9ion.     On  the  sides  are  some  curious  and   even  laboured  sculp- 
tures of  the  crucifixion,  &c.  wjih  niches  filled  with  angels- 
All  vestiges  of  the  Abbey  and  Abbey  Church,  had  long  been 
destroyed p   nor  ivaji  its  scile  even  known  until  some  years  ago, 
when  a  vtiy  curious  brass  plate  of  the  crucifixion  was  founds 
Weighing  upwards  of  seven  ounces,  and  supposed  to  have  been 
left  there  by  Cardinal  Wolsey,   on  his  way  to  Leicester  abbey, 
where  he  elosed  his  ambitious  and  disquiet  life.     It  contains  a 
number  of  figures,  not  badly  exetuled,  as  may  be  judged  fron^j 
an  tmprei^sioa  of  it  in  the  67  th  volume  of  the  Gentleman's  M**i;»| 
gazine^     It  was  found  adhering  t<»  a  wooden  crucifix,  above  the  | 
transverse   piece;  and  this   discovery  naturally  led  to  ihe  sup- 
poi»ilion»  that  the  spot  where   it  was  found  must  have  been  the 

6Cite 


ROTTl^JGHAMSnTllE. 


191 


sT^tte  of  the  ancient  priory.  Nothing  further  took  place,  bow- 
er, with  respect  to  investigation,  unul  a  few  years  ago*- 
hen  Mr.  Stretton,  whose  house  is  close  by  ihe  anctcnl  church 
yard,  and  mdeed  partly  situated  on  the  ancient  ruin,  be^n  a* 
rie  of  examination  iti  which  he  discovered  several  bases  of 
he  very  elegant  Saxon  pillars  of  the  conventual  churchy  but 
even  in  doing  this  his  researches  were  att**nded  with  very  little 
antiquarian  satislactiont  as  the  venerable  remains  ivere  actually 
taken  away  for  common  purposes.  He  had  influence  sufficient, 
however,  to  prevent  any  further  Vandalic  proceedings  ivf  this 
nature,  and  has  not  only  dug  out  seven  very  fine  specimens  cif 
the  ancient  pillars,  to  the  hci^^hi  of  a  (^w  feet  above  their 
bases,  but  has  abo  been  enabled  nearly  to  trace  out  the  groiuvd 
plan  of  the  whole* 

Lcnton  Priory  is  a  very  handsome  dwelling  house  of  Mr, 
Sli»etton's  own  erection^  in  the  form  of  an  ancient  priory,  as 
far  as  the  proportions  would  admit;  and  there  are  several  an- 
ue  aepulchral  memorials  in  the  garden  desi^rving  of  notice, 
particularly  a  stone  coflin^  with  a  crosier  on  the  lid;  also  a  very 
curious  Saxon  font  supposed  to  have  belonged  to  the  ancient 
priory*  The  ^xU^rior  of  the  bou«c  presents  some  very  good 
specimens  of  the  oraamentcd  Gothic,  in  the  floors  ami  windows* 
and  the  interior  arrangement,  tliowgh  possessii^g  every  moderii 
^omfortj  is  not  inappropriate. 

The  antiquarian  tourist  w-lll  also  fmd  much  to  gratify  him 
tna  collectiow  of  curiositi*?*!  belonging  to  thii  gentleman,  most 
f  which  are  illustrative  of  Lcnton,  and  its  neighbourhood. 
Here  is  also  a  portrait  of  the  lamous  AW/  Givt^nne,  which,  if  not 
an  original  of  Leiy's,  is  such  a  co()y  ai  he  need  not  have  been 
a.<$himed  of.  It  is  not  our  place,  indeed,  to  fdl  up  the^e  pages 
ith  reuiiirlts  on  a  woman  of  her  description,  however-clevai<ed 
ihe  became  in  life;  yet  we  tnust  do  her  the  justice  to  allow,  that 
Jier  portrait  speaks  her  worthy  of  a  better  fate.  Indeed  iihe 
jWffS  most  oiunificeutly  liberal  in  her  benelWlioni*;  and  her 
^-tfwblesj  her  failings*  and  ail  her  errors,  arc  forgotten  in  the  con- 

M  i  lemplatioa 


tjNDplation  of  her  being  the  primary  cause  of  the  erection 
and  establishmeDt  of  Chelsea  Hospital,  as  an  asylum  for  dia* 
abled  soldiers,  and  for  which  she  adoally  gave  the  ground  on 
which  it  stands,  as  an  encouragement  to  the  design.*  Her  lat- 
ter end  too  was  honourable  to  her,  as  Dr.  Jennison,  who  ' 
preached  her  funeral  sermon,  adduced  satisfactory  evidence 
that  she  died  a  sincere  and  contrite  Christian.  Such,  as  her  bi* 
ographer  has  observed,  was  Nell  Gwynne;  her  failings  most 
be  admitted  by  all;  but  the  most  rigid  moralist  cannot  witlN 
hold  from  her  the  praise  of  many  good  and  amiable  qualities. 
Bat  to  quit  this  digression,  to  which  we  were  led  by  a  recollec- 
tion of  this  very  capital  portrait,  let  us  now  proceed  towards 

.  WiLFoao,  a  most  delightful  village  on  the  banks  of  the  Trent, 
and  which  contains  several  very  neat  villas,  belonging  to  some 
people  of  opulence  in  Nottingham.  The  village  is  altogether 
neatly  built,  and  extremely  rural.  The  church  stands  close  to 
the  Trent,  and  is  not  only  an  handsome  object  in  itself,  but  also 
commands  a  most  pleasing  view  of  Nottingliam  and  its  vicinity. 
It  is  dedicated  to  St.  Wilfrid,  and  the  name  is  evidently  a  con- 
traction of  Wilfrid's  ford,  ai  there  is  both  a  ford  and  a  ferry 
close  by ;  the  tower  is  low,  but  the  nave  and  two  side  aisles  are 
capacious  and  kept  in  good  order,  and  the  chancel  has  a  very 
neat  altar  piece.  It  seems  to  have  been  anciently  a  Roman  station, 
as  many  Roman  coins  were  dug  up  here  a  few  years  ago,  most 
of  which  were  of  the  latter  emperors. 

WHford  House,  a  neat  modern  building,  is  the  seat  of  John 
Smith  Wright,  Esq.  Turning  from  this  village  towards  the 
bank  of  Trent,  we  have  a  view  of  the  steep  cliff  on  which 

Clifton  Hall 
standi  deeply  embowered  in  groves  of  oak  and  elm,  and  most 
pleasingly  situated  to  command  the  most  extensive  prospects 
over  the  Trent,  the  town  of  Nottingham,  and  an  immense  tract 

"  of 

*  A  public  hooie  in  the  yicinity  of  that  hospital,  and  much  frequented  by 
its  inmates,  slill  exhibits  a  rude  representation  of  her  head ;  and  there,  as 
well  as  iu  the  hospital,  Udl  Gwynne,  has  long  been  a  standing  toast. 


irOTttKOUAMSBl&C. 


16 


i>f  country  extending  into  all  the  surrounding  counties,  A 
neat  gravelled  walk  leads  along  the  river's  bank,  from  whence 
the  opposite  shore,  crowned  with  the  towers  of  Wollaton  and 
the  modern  Gothic  villa  of  Mr#  Wright,  is  seen  to  great  ad* 
Tantage.  At  the  end  of  this  path,  a  handsome  park  gate  opens  to 
the  grounds,  and  leads  to  Clifton  Grove^  a  long  avenue  form- 
ing ibe  approach  to  the  house,  about  a  mile  in  length,  and  broad 
enough  for  a  dozen  carriages  to  drive  abreast.  It  is  entirely 
covered  with  the  green  award,  and  thickly  sheltered  with  treei* 
on  each  side  which  preclude  all  distant  views^  except  about 
the  middle,  where  a  circular  opening  cut  in  the  foliage  presents 
an  almost  magic  prospect  of  Nottingham  castle  with  the  town 
and  part  of  the  surrounding  scenery,  like  a  living  |>icture  in  a 
irerdant  frame.  The  eiTect  of  this  is  indescribable,  nor  coufd  it 
be  expressed  even  by  the  largest  painting;  in  short,  it  must  be 
eeen  to  be  fully  appreciated.  The  whole  of  the  orowii  of  the 
cliff,  and  also  the  slope  to  the  Trent,  are  covered  with  fir 
and  elm,  which  were  planted  in  1740  and  have  thriven  re- 
markably well*  Near  the  upper  end  of  this  avenue,  the  clijf 
nearly  overhangs  the  Trent^  whose  silver  stream  meanderjt 
most  pleasingly  round  it*  *'  Here"  we  are  told  by  Thronby, 
^'  trddition  says,  the  Clifton  beauty,  who  was  debauched  and 
murdered  by  her  sweetheart,  was  hurled  down  the  precipice 
into  her  watery  grave;  the  place  is  stit!  shewn,  and  it  has  been 
long  held  in  veneration  by  lovers*** 

We  now  approach  the  hall,  the  seat  of  a  very  ancient  family 
of  the  same  name  for  many  centuries,  of  which  the  present  Sir 
Gervas  CUfton,  Ban,  is  the  represenUitive.  The  mansion, 
which  stands  on  a  rock  of  gypsum  or  alabaster  curiously  inter- 
spersed in  many  places  with  beautiful  spars,  was  formerly 
quite  in  the  antique  style  of  the  sixteenth  century,  atid  Stukely 
speaking  of  it  about  the  year  1712  says,  '^  Clifton  near  here, 
is  a  good  seat  with  pretty  groves,  and  a  noble  prospect  ;*'  but  ii 
is  now  much  modernized,  indeed  in  some  parts  almost  rcbuitt. 

The  present  Sir  Gervabe  Clifton,  had  begun  to  modernize  the 

M  4  house 


n4, 


90TT1V6HAMSH1RE. 


house  near  forty  years  ago,  but  broke  off  bis  geiieraTflSSfgli  m 
con&efjuence  of  a  domestic  loss.  Much  was  done,  however,  tn 
the  couise  of  twelve  years ^  for  what  was  then  done  to  mo- 
dernize it  was  executed  in  the  most  elegant  manner,  and  the 
gardens  and  plantations  were  begun  to  be  laid  out  on  a  new 
pUn  of  tastefiil  elegance.  At  present  the  front  to  the  viUage 
slill  retains  part  of  the  ancient  mansion,  but  looks  incomplete, 
from  the  wings  not  being  regular  ellher  in  iihape  or  in  size* 
The  centre  of  the  principal  Iront  is  ornamented  with  ten  hand- 
some columns  of  the  Doric  order,  but  is  rather  concealed  from 
view  by  the  luxuriance  of  surrounding  plantations,  as  well  as 
by  the  churchyard  enclosures,  and  b)/  some  of  the  ofiices*  so  as 
not  to  be  seen  except  on  a  close  approach.  One  of  the  most 
elegant  of  the  intended  alterations  was  nearly  Bnished,  whea 
the  death  of  the  amiable  mistress  put  a  stop  in  some  measure 
to  the  |*lan^.  Lady  Clifton's  intended  dressing  room  was  ar- 
rangt^d  with  a  south  aspect  with  an  entrance  into  the  green- 
house, thus  bringing  that  roost  pleasing  sheltered  amusement  in 
a  dreary  winter's  day  within  reach  of  the  social  fire^de«  and 
thereby  rendering  it  a  more  frequent  object  of  attention,  than 
when  placed  at  such  a  distance  as  almost  to  forbid  a  visit  to  it 
during  the  inclement  season  when  it  b  most  desirable*  Xhfi 
k  house  contains  many  good  paintings,  but  ^  they  are  mostly 
Ifamil}'  portraits,  they  require  no  illustration* 

The  gardens  are  on  the  side  of  a  hill  ri&ini^  above  the  house, 
Imid  originally  were  laid  out  in  the  ancient  taste  with  a  regular 
Iseries  of  slopes  in  progressive  height,  connected  by  flights  uf 
Ifitone  steps,  and  divided  by  cut  yew  hedges;  and,  as  it  has  been 
justly  observed,  the  le\elling  of  the  ground  on  each^of  these* 
L»o  as  to  make  ihem  into  so  many  ilat  parterres,  was  not  only  at- 
{tended  with  great  expense,  but  alijo  a  proof  of  the  then  bar- 
rbarous  tast^  of  the  designer ;  as,  by  the  preservation  of  the 
[initural  slope  of  the  hill,  its  whole  surface  might  have  been 
I  viewed  either  from  the  summit  or  from  the  base;  instead  of 
[baving  only  one  terrace  seen  at  a  time.     After  ascending  th^e 

steps^ 


IVOTTIBieHAMSntltE* 


IBS 


stepAt  the  fisitor  found  htmielf  on  a  large  bowling  green,  be* 
yond  which  wiis  a  walk  through  u  wood»  leading  to  a  summer- 
house  in  a  most  commanding  situation,  looking  down  on  the 
Treaty  and  over  a  great  extent  of  distant  country.  At  present 
the  fine  terrace  walk  is  preserved^  as  well  as  a  most  interesting 
one  at  the  toot  of  the  hill,  winding  through  a  thick  embower* 
ing  shade  of  willow  and  hawthorn^  overtopped  by  some  fine 
,  spreading  elms* 

The  VUiagc  of  Clifton  lies  on  a  flat»  and  contains  a  number  of 
neat  rural  cottages  Bnely  shaded  with  treesj  and  also  two  or 
thsee  pretty  vilU  looking  residences.  The  church,  dedicated 
U)  St,  Mary,  inclose  to  the  mansion, and^  though  ancient,  is^et 
in  good  preserration^  with  a  nave,  t^o  side  aisles^  and  two 
cross  aisles.  In  the  windows  are  still  some  fragments  of  armo- 
rial glassy  and  (here  are  many  old  brasses  of  the  Clittons. 
Here  also  is  the  family  vault,  in  which  are  deported  several 
generations,  its  entrance  having  the  date  of  163^2*  Throsbjr 
tells  us  that  in  it  is  an  ancient  leaden  coQiii,  Ibrmed  to  the 
human  shape;  also  a  heavy  piece  of  lead  in  the  form  of  a  heart* 
which  once  held  the  heart  of  one  of  the  family  who  died  ahroad« 
Some  of  the  table  monumt;ntfi  with  ancient  knights,  &c.  arewortb 
inspection,  as  well  as  the  brasses  some  of  which  are  very  finct 
Here  is  also  the  grave  of  Joseph,  (commonly  called  the  Black 
Prince,)  a  negro  converted  to  Christianity  in  1G85,  and  who 
was  brought  up  under  the  patron:vge  of  the  resident  family.  It 
usaid  that  be  grew  to  the  height  of  seven  feet  nectr/y,  which  is 
marked  off  in  the  church  porch. 

The  ancient  state  of  this  place  has  been  described  in  a  MS.  ia 
tbeBritishMuseumj^^andamile  beyond  is  the  town  of  Clifton; 
also  upon  the  very  bank  of  the  river  of  Trent,  is  the  housv  of 
Gervase  Clifton,  a  most  ancient  stock,  and  most  renowned  by 
Ihe  memory  of  his  worthy  grandfather,  Sir  Gervase  Clifton 
deceased,  most  famous  for  his  courtesie  and  libenilily,  and  fur 
bb  great  services  done  in  the  wars,  as  well  within  the  realm  as 

in 

•  Hurl.  CoU  5C0,  53. 


HOTTIKGHAIffSIITaS. 


in  France  and  Scotland."  To  this  there  is  no  date ;  bnt  there 
is  also  another*  containing  the  following  quaint  paragraph^ 
speaking  of  the  first  baronet  of  the  fiamily.  "  Hee  is  worthjr  m 
be  honoured  that  deserveth  honour,  saith  the  Roman  Emperor* 
This  person  was  honoured  in  being  chosen  a  hurgesse  with  the 
Lord  Mansfield,  for  the  borough  of  East  Retford«  in  this  county 
as  their  representatives  in  that  long  winded  Parliament  at  W^f- 
minster,  whose  loyalty  to  king  and  country,  deserves  the  van 
and  right  hand  of  all  baronets  in  this  shire,  for  he  suddenly 
found  that  there  was  a  compact  party  of  dangerous  principles  In 
the  House  of  Commons,  so  that  he  betooke  himself  to  the  breast 
ptate  of  loyalty*  and  with  a  goorl  courage  and  resolution,  went 
to  Oxford  to  serve  his  Majesty  of  blensed  memory,  king  Charles 
the  first,  who  made  him  a  commissioner  at  the  garrison  of  New- 
ark upon  Trent,  where  he  proved  a  valiant  and  fortunate  gentle- 
maiii  one  well  settled  in  his  religion,  and  allegiance  to  his  Iteg* 
lord  and  sovereign,  for  which  he  paid  into  the  usurpers  of  Gold- 
smith's hall  in  London  the  sum  of  MDC  hundred  XXV 
pounds,*' 

The  early  opulence  of  the  Clifton  family,  is  particularly 
noticed  by  Peck  in  his  **  Desiderata  Curiosa/'  where  he  states 
a  curious  wedding  dinner,  in  the  year  1530;  at  which  there  were 
two  oxen^  two  brawns,  twelve  swam,  three  quarters  of  wheat, 
seven  lambs,  six  wethers,  seven  calve?,  ten  pigs,  eight  cranes, 
sixty  couple  of  coni^es,  three  hhds  of  wine,  white,  red,  and 
claret,  and  eight  quarters  of  barley  malt,  &c.  &ۥ  kc^  The 
wine  cost  five  guineas,  the  oxen  thirty  shilling  each,  pigs  five* 
pence,  lambs  one  and  five-pence,  wethers  two  and  four-pence, 
the  wheat  eighteen  shillings  per  quarter,  malt  fourteen  shillings 
per  quarter,  and  there  were  as  many  wild  fowl  as  cost  a  sum 
equal  lo  the  two  oxen.  The  wedding  ring  cost  twelve  shillings  * 
and  four  pence. 

Tumier,  in  bis  Monasticon  tells  us,  that  at  ClifWn  there  was* 
a  small  cottage  for  a  warden  and  two  priests*  dedicated  to  the 

Holy 
•  Uirl.  CoU.  JOM.     • 


. 


KaTTI¥0HAM6HlRfi» 


187 


Holy  Trinity;  begun  by  Sir  Robert,  and  completed  by  hissoa 
Sir  Gerrase  Clifton,  in  the  time  of  Edward  the  fourth  ;  at  the 
dissolution,  it  was  valued  at  21/.. 

Near  Clifton  is  Chilw£LL»  of  wbich  there  is  now  nothing 
worth  particular  notice;  but  b  a  MS.  iq  the  British  Museum* 
we  find  the  foHowinjj  note  ;*  "  and  against  Chfton  on  ye  north 
side  of  the  Trent,  standiih  Chilwell,  where  is  an  ancient  house 
builded  by  Sir  William  Babyngton,  sometime  chiefe  bushier  of 
the  Common  Pleas,  and  before  was  the  house  of  one  Martel^ 
an  ancient  gentleman,  whose  heire  the  said  Babyngton  mar* 
ried,  and  lately  the  Lord  SheiField  possessed  it,  as  heire  to  Ba* 
byngton,  who  sould  it,  and  now  one  Christopher  Pymni^  GenU 
has  it/' 

Of  Barton,  we  have  already  spo]<en,  in  our  general  intro- 
duction. Near  it  is  the  hilU  already  noticed,  on  the  top  of 
which,  are  the  remains  of  the  Roman  camp,  m  appears  from 
the  many  coins  which  have  been  found  at  diiferent  periods.  It 
is  evident,  however,  that  it  was  ongioaliy  British.  Peck  grvei 
an  extraordinary  account  of  the  elTect^  of  lightning  upon  thi* 
hill»  in  1734,  seemingly  like  tile  consequences  of  an  earth- 
quake.f 

Thrumpton  Hall,  is  a  short  distance  from  Barton.  It  be* 
longed  formerly  to  the  Pigot  family,  who  some  years  ago  sold 
it  to  John  Emracrton,  of  the  Middle  Temple,  Esq. ;  from  whom 
it  came  to  the  Wcscombs,  who  have  since  taken  the  name  of 
Emmerton.  In  lG6d»  its  then  possessor  Ger vase  Pigot,  Esq.  was 
high  sherifFof  the  county,  and  having  dressed  his  men  in  black 
and  silver,  on  account  of  his  daughter's  decease,  they  were 
obliged  soon  after  to  attend  him  in  the  same  livery  to  bis  own 
last  liome. 

The  mansion,  which  stands  near  the  union  of  the  Soar  and 
Trent,  was  built  about  IGiiO,  and,  though  having  undergone 
many  recent  alterations,  still  retains  much  of  the  ancient  work, 
much  of 


partaking  \ 


style  ( 


the 


»  Hwl.  C»lh  36«,  M,  ♦  DwideratA  Corioii,  Vol  f,  lib.  XIV.  p.  54, 


1^5 


XOTTTITGirAirSUITll. 


t<ie  ornamented  gable  ends  to  ihc  returns  in  front,  and  lb« 
square  heavy  framed  windows,  &c.  It  rises  to  the  height  of 
lour  stories,  and  the  interior  arrangements  are  upon  an  elegant 
and  convenient  sc^e.  The  gardens  arc  extremely  neat  and| 
agreeable;  and  the  surrounding  scenery  is  piciurcsqnc  in  al* 
mof^t  every  point  of  view.  It  i»  now  the  property  and  residence 
of  John  Wcscomb  Emmertcm>  Esq. 

Gotham,  so  famous  in  proverbial  story,  is  but  a  short  dif« 
tance  from  Thriiaipton«  and  lies  on  the  cross  road  from  CHflon 
loLeke. 

Oid  **  Drunken  Bariiaby*'  seems  to  have  visited  Gotham  m^ 
one  of  bis  poetical  journtes  to  the  north  j  for  he  sings : 

"  Tticnce  to  Gottiatiij  vthtre  iiire  am  I« 
Thougli  not  all  faols,  I  saw  many ; 
Here  •  she-gull  found  I  prancing. 
And  in  mfK»nshine  nbiblj  daiiciiig ; 
TiKre  tnuther  wanton  mtcdliugt 
Who,  her  Hog  was  m;C  u  tadling/' 

Mr.Throsby,howe¥er«seeo]sof  adilFerent  opinion  from  hone^ 
Bdrnatby,  for  he  says,  that  he  now  thinks  the  inhabitants  of  this 
village  as  wise  a5  their  neighbours,  A  variety  of  opinions,  indeed. 
Lave  gone  abroad  respecting  this  place^  War  ton,  speaking  of 
'*  tlie  idle  pranks  of  the  men  of  Gotham,"  is  rather  mistaken^ 
when  he  calU  it  a  town  in  Lincolnshire]^  but  he  add*,  '*  tliat 
such  pranks  bore  a  reference  to  some  customary  law  tenures  be* 
longing  to  that  place,  or  its  neighbourhood,  now  grown  obso- 
kte  ;  and  that  Blount  might  have  eniiched  his  book  of  ancient 
Itjnureswith  those  ludicrous  storit*s,"  Hearne  also-f  says,  "  nor 
is  there  more  reason  to  esteem.  The  merrjf  tales  of  the  mad  tncn 
of  Gotham i  (which  wis  much  valued  and  cried  up  in  Henry  the 
eighths  time,  though  how  i^old  at  hailad  singer^n  stalls,)  as  alto- 
gether a  romance:  a  certain 4tLilJu I  ptirson  having  told  me  more 
than  onre,  that  tUe^'  formerly  held  bads  I  here,  by  such  sports 
land  customs  ai  are  touched  upon  ia  this  book," 


•  English  r&ctry.  Vol.  III. 
t  ^Uckti  ctSpiciljcg.  and  Gul.  Ncwbrig,  Vol  III  p»  7H. 


HOTTlKaHAMSHIRC. 


%$9 


But  Fallcr*  says,  that  the  proverb  "  as  wise  as  a  man  of 
Ciothann  pas!«eth  [jublicly  fur  the  periphrasiiuf  a  fool  j  and  an 
humlred  fopperies  are  furged  and  fathered  on  the  towasfolk  of 
Gotham/^  Still  he  thinks  it  iio  mure  remtirkuble  than  iIns 
customs  of  other  nations;  for  h  has  been  well  obijerveJ,  that 
a  custinn  seeing  to  have  prevailed,  even  among  tlie  eartievt 
nations,  of  stigroatiziag  some  panlcolar  spot  a&  remarkable  for 
siupiJity.  Amongst  the  Asiatics,  Phrygia  was  considered  as 
the  Guiham  of  that  day  ;  Abdera,  amongst  the  Tbracian2» ;  snd 
Boeotiii among  the  Grct^ks*  Fuller,  however,  adds,  ♦*  but  to  re- 
turn to  Gotham,  it  doih  breed  as  wise  people  as  any  vvhich 
cau^ielfsijly  laugh  at  their  simplicity.  Sai^  I  am  Mr.  Wiillam 
de  Gotham^  fifth  master  of  Michael  Houae^  Cambridge,  anno 
I3c)9,  and  twice  chancellor  of  the  University,  was  as  grave  a 
governor  as  thiit  age  did  a0brd  :  and  Gotham  is  a  goodly  large 
lordship,  where  the  ancient  and  right  well  respected  family  of 
Sl  Andrew  have  flourished  some  hundreds  of  years,  till  of  late 
the  name  is  extinct,  and  lands  divided  betwixt  female  coheiri 
matched  unto  very  worshipful  persons.'* 

From  these  various  protests  in  favour  of  the  men  of  Golham, 
it  is  evident  that  considerable  publicity  had  been  given  to  I  he 
many  ridiculous  fables  traditionally  told;  particularly  of  their 
having  often  heard  the  cuckoo,  but  never  having  seen  h«r« 
and  therefore  hedged  in  a  bush  from  whence  her  note  seemed 
to  proceed,  that  being  confined  within  so  small  a  compass,  they 
might  at  length  catch  her  anti  satisfy  their  curiosity.  It  hoj 
been  observed  by  several  writers  in  the  last  century,  thai  what 
gave  rise  to  the  story  is  not  now  remembered ;  but  th^y  all 
mention  that  there  is  at  a  place  called  "Courthill''  In  the  parish, 
a  bush  still  designated  by  the  name  of  the  "  Cuckoo  bush/' 

The  editor  of  the  Magna  Britannia,  huwever,  might  almoM 
be  suspected  of  being  a  Gotharnite  himsetC  from  the  warmth 
with  which  he  declares  that,  **  unless  some  good  reason  can  be 
produced,  it  ought   to  be    laid  aside,  and  never  mentioned  »ft 

history.' 
•  Britbk  Wonbjef. 


irOTTlHGHAMSHtRfi. 

*  liistory.*'  He  adds,  Ihat  in  the  Conqaeror^s  Survey,  it  U  calltcl 
••  Gatham/'  frfun  goats,  whicb  we  may  Tmagine  at  that  time 
were  pteDtirtil  in  or  about  it ;  and  being  much  cberished  here« 
it  was  hence  caKed  GoatK-bome  or  dwelling.  One  5iory  was 
lord  of  part  of  this  manor  before  the  Norman  invasion;*  but  ] 
after  that  it  was  taken  from  him^*  being  a  Saxon,  and  given  by 
the  conqueror  to  Robert^  Earl  of  Morteyn^  one  of  his  Norman 
followers*  It  is  now  the  property  of  Pen  Asheion  Curzon,  Esq. 
The  Tillage  stands  upon  a  gentle  rise,  whose  basis  In  gypsum 
or  alabaster,  which  seems  also  the  basis  of  the  hills  to  the  west 
and  southwest.  From  Clifton  hill  to  Gotham,  the  whole  country 
isa  dead  flat,  extending  to  the  Wouldsand  into  the  vale  of  Bol^ 
toir  ;  but  the  ground  rises  towards  East  Leek  and  Remston,  so 
as  to  join  the  Leicestershire  hills*  To  the  west,  there  are  some  ' 
very  fme  swelling  eminences,  partly  clothed  in  wood;  over  | 
these  the  road  runs  towards  Key  worth,  and  the  views  from  I 
them  into  Leicestershire  on  one  side,  and  over  Nottmghanishire 
towards  Lincolnshire  on  the  other,  are  very  fine*  Much  of  the 
land  round  the  village  is  common  fields  but  is  highly  suscep-. 
tibleof  cuhivatTon;  and  there  is  plenty  of  game  in  the  neigh* 
liourbood. 

The  village  church  is  antique,  and   is  dedicated  to  $t  Lau*] 
rence ;  it  has  a  nave  and  two  side  aisles;  but  the  spire  is  rather  J 

'  of  a  heavy  appearance-  The  whole  of  the  church  is  in  good] 
repair,  and  the  chancel  has  been  rebuilt  about  thirty  years  ago. 
The  village  itself  only  consists  of  a  few  cottages,  not  remarkable] 
for  neatness ;  it  must  be  confessed,  however,  that  the  inhabitant 
are  very  tenacious  of  their  parochial  honour,  as  the  editor  of  I 
these  sheets,  on  making  enquiry  on  the  spot^  could  not  meet  j 
with  any  person  who  seemed  to  know  any  thing  of  the  olij 
Gothaniite  stories.  For  this  uifful  ignorance,  however,  he  wa^l 
made  ample  amends  by  a  talkative  landlady  at  the  village  tnil'l 
at  East  Leek,  the  adjoining   parish^  who  seemed  to  have  irea 

sured 


*Mag.  Bnt4n.Voh4*p*ir. 


KOtTIKGfIAIf9tfIE£. 


w 


mitred  in  her  memory  ef  ery  tale  that  had  been  told  of  her 

neighbours* 

CQunhilh  the  scene  of  the  cuckoo-bush  siory^  is  a  rery  short 
distance  from  the  Tillage,  and  the  "cuckoo  bush,"  is  most  cer- 
tainly still  in  existence  there ;  the  present  inhabitants  have  been 
wise  enough*  however,  to  turn  this  hill  to  better  purpose  than 
their  ancestors  did,  as  they  work  on  the  side  of  it  two  very  fine 
^  cjuarries;  one  of  gypsum,  or  piaster,  as  they  term  it,  in  very 
large  blocks,  the  strata  in  some  places  being  three  feet  in  thick- 
ness; the  other  of  a  reddish  stone,  suiEciently  hard  for  build- 
ings but  calcareous,  and  fit  either  Id  burn  into  lime,  or  to  polish 
as  marble.  Much  of  the  produce  of  these  quarries  is  now  car- 
ried to  the  canal,  and  there  shipped  for  the  wharfs  at  Notting- 
haai;,  from  whence  it  is  con? eyed  to  various  parts  of  the  king- 
dom. 

The  book  alluded  to  by  Fuller  is  also  mentioned  by  Wal* 
pole,  who  says,  "  the  merry  tales  of  the  mad  men  of  Gotham, 
a  book  extremely  admired,  and  often  reprinted  in  that  age,  was 
written  by  Lucas  de  Heere,  a  Flemish  painter,  who  resided  in 
(England  in  the  time  of  Elizabeth,"  Wood,  however,  is  of  a 
<)i0erent  opinion  respecting  the  author^  and  tells  us  they  were 
written  by  one  Andrew  Borde,  or  Andreas  Perforatus  as  he 
calls  himself  by  a  strange  kind  of  dog  Latin  paraphrase.  This 
facetious  gentleman  was  a  kind  of  travelling  quack  ;  and  it  is 
supposed  that  the  name  and  occupation  of  a  "merry  and  re  w," 
took  its  rise  from  some  of  the  professional  fooleries  of  thii 
whimsical  charlatan*  There  is  an  old  black  letter  edition  of  the 
work,  now  in  the  Bodleian  library  at  Oxford :  it  is  called  "  Cer* 
larne  merry  tales  of  the  mad  men  of  Gotham,  compiled  in  the 
sign  of  Henry  the  eighth,  by  Dr.  Andrew  Borde,  an  eminent 
^physician  of  that  period;"  but  it  would  far  exceed  our  limits 
to  tell  more  than  one  stury,  which  is  related  nearly  m  the  fol- 
lowing words : 

'*  There  were  two  men  of  Gotham,  and  the  one  of  them  ua> 
going  to   the  market  of  Nottingham  to  buy  sheepe,  and  the 

Other 


19t 


KOTTHrGITAMSHTEB. 


Other  came  from  the  market;  and  both  met  together  upon  Kdt^ 

tiugham    bridge.      Well    m^l,    said    the    one    to    the    other. 

Whether  bee  ye  going?  said   he  that  came   from  Nottingham. 

kMarry*  said  he  that  was  going  thither,  I   goe  to  that  market  to 

lt>uy  sheepe.     Buy  sheepe!    said   the   othr^r,  and   which   way 

yfiiit  thou  bring  them   home  P    Marry,   said   the  other,  i  will 

» luring  them  oTer  thiis  bridge.     By  Robin   Hood>  said  he  thai 

•came  from  Nottingham,  but  thou  shalt  not.     By  maid  Marlan« 

.said  lie  that  was  going  thitherward,  but  I  wilU     Thou  shalt  not 

.«aid  the  one,     I  will,  said  the  other.     Ter  here  f  said  the  on«« 

,Shue  there  /  i^aid  the  other*     Then  they  beat  their  staves  against 

-the  ground,  one  against  the  other,  ai»  there  had  been  a  hundred 

[j»hcepe  betwix^t  them*      Hold  in,  said  the  one.    Beware  the 

leaping  over  the   bridge  of  niy  sheepe,  said   the  other.     They 

shall  not  come  thi.s   way,  said  the    one.     But  they  shall,  said 

.the  other.     Then»  said  the  other,  and  if  that  thou  make  much  to 

<Io,  I  will  put  my  finger  in  thy  mouth.     A*— thou  wilt,  said  the 

ether.     And  as  they  were  at  their  contention,  another  man  of 

Gotham  came  by  from  the  market,  with  a  aacke  of  meale  upon 

his  horne,  and  seeing  and  hearing  his  neighbours  in  strife  about 

sheepe,    and  none    betwixt  them,    said,   ah!    fooles,  will  you 

never  learn  wit  f     Helpe  me,  said  he  thai  had  the  meale,  and 

lay  my  sack  upon  my  shoulder.     They  did  soe;  and  he  weol 

to  one  side  of  tlie  bridge,  and  unloosed  the  mouth  of  the  sacke^ 

and  did  shake  out  all  his  mcale  into  the  river.     Now  neighbours^ 

aid  he,   how   much   meale   is  there   in  mysacke?    Marry! 

'there  is  none  at  all,  said   they.     Now  by  my  faith,  said  he^ 

even  as  much  wit  is  in  your  heads  to  strive  for  that  ihing  you 

have  not.     Which  was  the  wisest  of  all  these  three  persons^ 

I  judge  you  ?'* 

It  is  needless  to  expatiate  on  the  tales  of  the  two  brotherf« 
€ne  of  whom  wished  for  as  many  oxen  as  he  saw  stars,  whilst  ■ 
the  other  wishing  for  a  pasture  as  wide  as  the  firmament,  they 
quarrelled   and  killed   each  other,  about  the   pasturage  of  the 
ojten;  nor  shall  we  show  so  little  respectful  the  foibles  of  the 

fair 


ItOTTtlVOITAMSIilHC, 


if 


fairsexj  as  to  notice  the  ingenmty  of  the  good  woman  of  Go- 
tham>  who  when  left  at  home  by  her  husbaod,  with  directions 
to  wet  the  meal  before  she  gave  it  to  the  pigs,  threw  the  meal 
into  the  wel!,  and  the  pigs  after  it:  these,  and  uri  hundred  others, 
tre  jihall  leave  for  the  grave  chroniclers  of  ihe  neighbouring 
parishes  who  are  all  very  careful  to  remember,  what  the  people 
of  Goiham  seem  rather  anxious  should  be  forgotten*     The  sages 
of  Gothara,  indeed^  have  a  tradition  that  their  folly  was  like  Ed- 
gar's madness,  put  on  for  ihe  occasion;  and  Mr*  Throsby  re- 
lates that  this  tradition  is,  that  the  Cuckoo  bush  was  merely 
planted  to    commemorate    n    trick  which    the    inhabitants  of 
Gotham  put  upon  King  John^  who,  passing  through  this  placii 
towards  Nottingham,  and  intending   to  go  over  the  meadows, 
%vas  prevented  by  the  villagers  who  supposed  (as  men  of  Go- 
tham might,)  that  the  ground  over  which  a  king  passed  must 
ever  after  remain  as  a  public  road*     The  king,  incensed  at  their 
proceedings,  sent  from  hif^  court  soon  after  some  of  his  officers 
to  eni^uire  of  them  the  reason  of  their  incivility  and  ill  treat- 
ment, in  order  that  he  might  duly  apportion  the  punishment, 
by  way  of  fine,    &c,     The  Goibamites,    hearing  of  iheir  ap- 
proachj  thought  of  an  expedient  to  turn  away  his  displeasure  ; 
for  when  the  messengers  arrived,  they  found  some  of  the  inha- 
bitants endeavouring  to  drown  an  eel  in  a  pool  of  water;  some 
employed  in  dragging  carts  upon  a  large  barn,  in  order  to  shade 
the  wood  from  the  sun;  otber-s  were  tumbling  ihetr  checsei 
down  hill,  that  ihcy  might  find  their  way  to  Nottingham  market 
for  sale;  and  some  employed   in  hedging  in  a  cuckoo^  which 
had  perched  upon  an  old  bush  that  stood  where  the  present  one 
now  stands;  in  short  ihey  were   all  occupied  in  some  foolish 
way  or  other,  which  convinced  the   king**  oHiccrs  that  they 
were  a  village  of  fools!     Thus  far >  Mr.  Thro»hy ;  but  at  the 
same  time  he  quotes  some  stanzas  from  an  humble  village  poet, 
who,  with  some  degree  of  irritation,  attempts  to  prove  that  they 
who  go  to  look  after  the  cuckoo   bush,  are  now  the  greatest 
fools!     But  then  the  cuckoo  bush  is  «jiill  there  ;  and  if  the  an- 
Voi.XlL  N  cient 


19* 


iroTTI  M  O  H  A H Sll lUE, 


cicnt  Gothamites  were  so  simple  as  to  plant  It,  we  cannot  belp 
thinkings  that  their  Ue^sceatJants  are  not  much  wiser  for  being 
^^^y  ^v^^h  tliose  who  choose  to  laugh  at  an  ancient  jest. 

Radcliffe  upon  SoAfij  was  once  a  place  uf  some  conse** 
qyencc,  *'  Next  Kingston  standelh  Radclivc,  alias  Eatdiiie 
upon  Soar,  wliich  now  is  the  house  of  Henry  Sacheverell,  Esq.; 
but  anciently  it  was  the  inberilance  of  one  Priott«  alias  Pigott, 
ami  at\er  of  the  Duke  of  Buckingham,  of  whom  it  was  p\it* 
chased.'*^  At  pr^^seut  almost  the  whole  of  the  aucit^nt  manor 
house  has  been  pulled  clown>  except  a  small  part  turned  into  a 
farm  house;  and  the  old  dining  room,  which  is  now  occupied 
as  a  barn.  There  is^  however,  a  modern  seat  called  Ratclifie 
Lodge^  the  residence  of  Thomas  Boultonj  Esq*  In  the  village 
IS  a  free  school  for  six  poor  children;  and  the  old,  decaying 
church  contains  nothing  worthy  notice^  except  an  humble^  yet 
true  and  striking,  description  of  mortality  and  of  the  compa- 
rative rapidity  of  human  life^  in  an  epitaph  on  Robert  Smith* 
born  in  the  first  year  in  the  last  century,  and  died  in  1782. 

"  Fift^-Ave  jcars  it  was  and  something  more. 
Clerk  af  thU  p«riih,  he  the  oBca  bore  ; 
And  in  lliat  tpacc,   *tii  «wful  to  declare. 
Two  Ctneratiotii  buried  by  him  were."  I 

Kingston  upon  Soar,  is  now  scarcely  deserving  of  the 
name  of  a  village*  "  Upon  the  same  river,  (Soar)  standeih  the 
towne  of  Kingston,  whcretJi  siandeth  the  mines  of  an  old  house^ 
late  of  Antho  ;  Babyngton,  Esq.  attainted  in  the  reign  of  Eliza- 
beth; but  now  it  is  the  inheritance  of  Gilbert  Earl  of  Salop/** 
Of  this*  building  nothing  remains  but  the  outward  wall  of  the 
couft  and  gardens,  with  an  ancient  stone  gateway,  all  in  a  state 
of  dilapidaiion^  and  speaking  the  melancholy  tale  of  other 
times.  The  church  is  very  small,  with  a  curious  bell  turret 
of  the  simplest  form  ;  it  is,  however,  well  worthy  the  notice  of 
the  antiqixf^rian  tourist.  It  consists  of  two  aisles,  of  the  Gothic 
order,  with  &onie  small  Gothic  arches  in  the  chancel  of  great 

antiquity ; 

*H«rl.  Coll.  568.  f  Ibid*  3CS,  5S» 


I 


jCOTTJNGilAlfSUlRB* 


antiquity  ;  but  iU  tiate  is  carried  even  farther  back  by  the  Saxon 
doorway  in  the  western  porch-  Frooi  the  arrangement  of  the 
Gothic  arches  in  the  walls  of  the  chancelj  it  is  cvidciit  that  the 
buiUling  has  once  been  much  larger;  the  ^ch  leading  from  the 
iia?e  IS  ?ery  curious,  but  the  Bahyngton  monumeni  inside  the 
chancel  infinitely  more  so.  This  latter  consists  of  a  canopy, 
formed  on  a  semicircular  arch  supported  by  grotesque  pillars# 
and  adorned  with  upwards  of  two  hundred  heads  of  a  bal>€  in  a 
ion,  the  common  monumental  pun  on  the  family  name^  and 
which  the  architect  has  thought  sufficient  to  designate  the  owner 
without  any  inscripiioUi  On  the  tomb,  under  this  arch,  once 
lay  a  figure,  but  that  has  long  since  been  removed,  and  the 
iomb  itself  bears  evident  marks  of  crunibling  to  dust  like  its 
teuant;  it  is  still,  however^  venerable  in  ruin,  and  would  have 
been  more  so  if  our  modern  VandaU  (for  it  wuuld  be  paying 
them  loo  high  a  compliment  tu  call  them  Goihs,)  commonly 
known  by  the  appellation  o( church^wardens,  had  not  daubed  it  so 
completely  with  yellow  ochre,  as  to  have  filled  up  most  of  the 
ramifjcations  in  I  he  highly  embossed  foliage  of  vine  leaves 
which  once  adorned  it  in  rich  alto  relief.  These  beautifier^  have 
been  at  work  on  the  elegant  Gothic  remains  on  the  inside  of  the 
chancel  walls;  they  have  not  yet,  however,  attempted  to  ini» 
prove  some  very  ancient  armorial  beat  ings  on  its  outti^ide*  The 
carved  work  and  tracery  of  the  east  window  has  also  once  been  I 
L'urious;  but  its  effect  totally  destroyed  by  the  white  wasHtl 
and  plaiiier  of  these  animal  cQtm(Hsseur9  !  Tiie  country  roun4  j 
Kingston  is  highly  cultivated;  and  the  f iew^  into  Leicester- 1 
ahire,  on  descending  from  tbe  hilts  of  the  wolds  are  rich  and  j 
extensive- 

East  Leake,  and  its  coinpanioti  West  Leake,^  are  said  to  de« 
rive  their  names  from  the  Saxon  verb  "  I.eccian,"  to  water  ok  ' 
moisten,  they  being  both  traversed  by  a  small  rivulet. 

The  former  h  a  large  village,   consisting  principally  of  faring 
liouses;  and  the  church,  dedicated  to  St,  Mary,  is  a  handsome 

N  2  specimen 

#  Sometimes  ipelled  Leak,  mnd  Leek. 


igfi 


yotTlNGUAllSHI1l£. 


Specimen  of  the  later  Gothic,  in  very  good  preservation^  aitd 
b^Ttng  a  very  handsome  turret  and  3pire>  containing  four  well 
toned  bells.  In  the  interior,  which  is  kept  in  good  orden  are 
some  ancient  benches  wtih  curious  carvings,  which  seem  to 
have  belonged  to  an  older  building.  Here  is  a  charity  school 
founded  by  John  Blay,  citizen  of  London^  but  a  native  of 
Leake.  He  died  in  173 1^  but  not  before  he  had  bought  a 
piece  of  ground  for  its  support^  for  which  he  paid  450^  He 
also  bequeathed  10/.  to  every  farmer,  and  5L  to  every  cottager 
in  the  village. 

West  Leake  has  some  small  remains  of  an  ancient  manor 
house;  inhabited  some  years  ago  by  the  family  of  Chad  wick, 
but  now  giving  shelter  to  an  humble  villager's  family*  The 
church  is  very  low,  and  seems  of  an  older  date  than  its  com* 
pan  ion.  In  a  niche  in  the  north  wall  are  two  very  old  monu* 
ments,  each  contain ing  a  recumbent  figure ;  there  is  also  one  of 
a  lady  in  the  chancel j  but  much  decayed. 

Sutton  Bomington  consists  of  two  parishes;  St.  Aime's^  and 

St.   Michaer^  field.     The   principal   church  is  kept  in  very 

decent  order,  and  is  buik  on   a  large  scale,  having  a  nave  and 

two  side  aisles ;  the  other  is  much  smaller   but  more  ancient 

and  contains  one  ventTablCj  Uuinmch  mutilated,  monument  in 

the  chancel.     Though  considered  now  as  one  town,  ibis  was  not 

the  case  formerly*    "  next  beneath  Norm  an  ton  standeth  upon 

the  river,  iW0  iowns  called  vulgarly  SuUon  Bontngton  ;  but^  in 

truths  the  more  southerly    is  Sutton  juxta  Bonlngton,  and  the 

other  is  Bonington*"* 

Norm  AN  TON  tjpon  Soar  is  but  a  small  village,  with  a  very 

[undent  church  gone  much   to  decay,  and  nothing  remarkable 

I  in  it  but  a    large  font,  used  when    baptism  was  performed  by 

[dipping.     The  manor  was  once  in  possession  of  the  Willooghhy 

family  ;  but  ia  now  the  property  of  two  eminent  breeders  anH 

graziers^   Messrs,  Buckley  and   Richards;    to  the  former  of 

whom 

•  HirL  Coll.  U%. 


NOTTIKOnAMSHIIlK. 


1J7 


I 


mhom  the  late  Duke  of  Bedford  gave  700  guineas  for  the  use 
of  one  of  his  rams,  for  one  season. 

Stanford  is  a  pleasant  village  on  the  verge  of  the  county, 
with  a  church  embowered  in  thick  foliage  and  forming  a  very 
(pleasing  object.  It  is  pretty  large,  with  a  nave  and  two  side 
aisles,  and  a  very  extensive  chancel;  and  the  whole  kept  in 
in  good  condition.  In  the  roof  of  the  nave  are  many  figures 
curiously  carved,  serving  as  supporters,  and  there  are  several 
ancient  monuments  of  the  lllingworths,  and  Lewises  Jatu  pos- 
sessors, with  the  latter  of  whom  the  Dash  wood  family  are  con- 
nected by  marriage.  Th«  square  tower  adorned  with  pin- 
nacles has  a  good  effect,  when  seen  peeping  from  amongst  the 
trees;  the  village  is  extremely  rural;  and  the  parsonage  bougie 
b  a  genteel  comfortable  dwelling. 

Sim\ford  Haiij  the  seat  of  the  late  Charles  Vere  Dash  wood,  Esc^* 
is  a  great  ornament  to  this  vicinity.  It  stand*  about  a  mile  from 
the  village,  on  a  gentle  eminence,  and  looking  down  upon  u 
pleasing  piece  of  water,  with  an  extensive  paddock,  and  some 
^  thriving  plantations  at  the  back  of  the  house,  formed  a  pleading 
object  from  the  Loughborough  road.  The  modern  house  was  built 
nearly  on  the  scitc  of  the.  old  manorial  ediBce  about  forty  years 
ago,  with  more  attention  to  d'*mestic  comfort,  than  to  external  or 
internal  show  j  it  consists  of  a  centre  of  handsome  elevation  of 
three  stories,  and  the  two  wings  assimilate  well  with  the  general 
plan* 

The  Dining  Room  has  some  good  family  portraits;  also  some 
landscapes,  particularly  a  vcr}^  fine  moonlight  piece*  The 
Library  also  contains  some  good  paiiUingSt  with  portraits,  and 
a  horse  by  Siubbs.  The  Dtaiciu^  Room  is  most  remarkable  for 
its  very  fine  view  over  the  forest  hills  in  Leicestershire  :  to  the 
iefl  are  Cluarndon  woods  and  Mount  Sorrel;  in  front  is  Lough- 
borough, in  the  mid^t  of  a  verdant  amphitheatre,  with  Barley 
and  Garendon  park,  in  the  latter  of  which  the  manstou  forms  a 
fine  object,  whilst  the  village  and  church  of  Stanford  com- 
plete the  foreground.     Now  advertised  to  be  let* 

N  i^  Remtstone 


IflS 


NOTTIKOUAMSnmB. 


RSMFJ^TONE  is  a  pleaasmt  village  in  this  neighbodrhoodj  coa- 
taining  two  good  hunting  seats  belonging  to  J.  Goodere,  and 
W.GAVilliams  Esqrs.  the  old  manor  house  being  now  turned  into 
a  farmer*?  dwell ing-  The  parochial  concerns  of  this  village 
have  undergone  a  conaiderable  change.  The  ancient  chui*ch 
was  St.  Peter's  in  the  rushes,  standing  about  half  a  mile  from  the 
village  in  which  was  an  old  chapel  long  in  disuse:  but  the  pre* 
sent  church  which  stands  in  the  village  was  consecrated  in  1773* 
and  built  out  of  the  ruins  of  these  two  sacred  edifices.  Its  stile  Is 
neatj  and  its  interior  handsomely  arranged ;  with  a  tower  steeple 
and  five  bells ;  but  though  the  inhabitants  are  obliged  to  attend 
divine  service  in  it,  they  make  but  little  use  of  its  church  yard* 
chusing  rather  to  mingle  with  the  dust  of  their  departed  rela* 
lives  in  the  old  burying  ground,  which  lies  in  a  retired  and 
sombre  situation,  and  has  two  ancient  tombs^  one  of  which  is 
for  an  archdeacon  of  Nottingham. 

'  Thorpe  in  the  Clods  is  in  this  neighbourhood,  of  which 
wc  have  only  to  observe  that  Thoroton,  when  treating  of  it, 
complains  heavily  that  the  inclosures  had  depopulated  it  so 
much  in  his  time,  as  to  leave  not  a  house  inhabited  except  some 
part  of  the  hall,  and  a  Shepherd  who  kept  ale  to  sell  in  ihe 
church  ! 

CoRUNSTOCK  or  Costock,  is  on  the  high  road  to  Lough- 
borough* it  is  a  place  of  no  conscf|uencej  though  pretty  ex- 
tcnsiive  :  consisting  principally  of  farm  houses.  The  church  is 
a  poor  building  of  one  aislcj  with  a  roof  like  a  barn,  and  a 
steeple  like  a  dove  cote;  some  remains  of  painted  glass  are  in 
the  windows,  and  on  the  outside  wall  is  part  of  a  mutilated 
monumental  figure,  probably  the  tomb  of  the  founder. 

Turning  to  the  left,  towards  Nottingham,  we  approach  Bln- 
^v,  a  straggling  village  on  the  high  road,  containing  about  sixly 
hoifees,  and  which  seems  lo  have  been  indebted  principally  for 
its  origin  to  the  anttent  seat  of  Bunny  Pabk  Hall»  once  ihe 
property  of  the  f;uni!y  of  Parkyns,  and  now  of  their  dtacen* 
dant  Lord  KanclilTe.     This  femily  have  indeed  been  great  bene-! 

factors 


KOTTISTOIIAMSHIRI* 


199 


fEiclors  16  the  Tillage,  as  it  contaim  a  good  school  house  and  hos- 
pitiil,  the  former  being  close  to  the  church  yard  gate  and  erect- 
ed m  1700  for  the  poor  children  of  Bunny  and  Bradmore;  and 
the  latter  having  four  rooms  for  four  poor  widows,  and  endow- 
ed by  Dame  Anne  Parlt yn9  with  IGI,  per  annum,  to  which 
her  husband.  Sir  Thoma&,  added  5L 

The  church  has  a  nave  and  two  side  aisles ;  the  body  is  an- 
cient, but  the  chancel  of  a  more  modern  ilate.  In  the  latter  is 
the  tomb  of  Sir  Thomas  Parkyns,  ban*  so  famous  as  a  wrestler 
in  the  last  century  ;  also  a  monument  in  tlie  body  of  the  church 
with  the  date  of  1G03  for  Richard  Parkyns,  Esq.  his  w\h,  (our 
sons,  and  four  daughters, 

Et'NNY  Park  Hall  is  a  strong  looking  heavy  building  close 
to  the  road  f$ide,  with  a  very  heavy  gateway  in  front,  built  in 
the  ancient  style  of  two  centuries  ago.  The  house  irself  is  a 
massy  pile,  and  its  front  in  its  present  state  has  quite  llie  appear- 
ance of  a  ruin  ;  and,  being  built  of  brick  with  stone  corners  and 
window^  cases,  has  quite  a  sombre  eileci.  It  seems  irwleed  to  he 
the  patch  work  of  different  periods;  bnt  the  aparlmtnts  are 
lufty  and  commodious,  and  contain  many  good  family  pnrtraits, 
amongst  which,  in  particular,  are  two  in  the  dining  parlour  of 
the  late  Sir  Thomas  and  his  Lady,  by  Vanilcrbank;  but  the 
house  having  long  been  unoccupied  by  its  possessor,  even 
these  are  going  to  decay*  The  Park  has  a  fine  sheet  of  water, 
and  a  long  avenue  of  fine  lofty  trees;  it  has  also  some  good 
scenery,  which,  however,  Mr  Thiosby  unfortunately  calb  ro- 
mantic,  though  it  merely  consists  of  some  gentle  swells  with 
clumps  of  forest  trees,  with  a  profusion  of  bramble  and  other 
cover  for  game. 

Sir  Thomas  Parkyns,  Bart*  who  lived  in  the  early  part  of  the 
last  century*  was  remarkable  for  his  skill  in,  and  fondness  for, 
ihc  art  qf  wrestling.  By  the  inscripiion  on  his  monument  in 
the  church,  we  are  infmmed  that  he  was  a  great  wrestler,  and 
Justice  of  Peace  for  Notts  and  Leicestershire.  Also  that  Jii* 
new-roofed  the  chancel,  built  the  vault  below,  and  erected  this 

N  4  monument 


«K> 


yOTTIKGHAHSMlUB- 


monument  wrought  out  of  a  fine  piece  of  marble  by  Kb  cbap* 
lain  in  a  barn  ;  that  he  studied  Pliysic  for  the  benefit  of  his 
neighbours ;  wrote  the  *'  Cornish  Hug  Wrestler  ;*'  and  died  in 
1741,  aged  78. 

He  had  two  wives  j  one  a  grand-daughter  of  a  London  alder^ 
man;  the  other  an  alderman'^  daughter  of  York;  he  had  two 
or  three  stone  co(Bns  made  for  himself,  in  order  to  take  his 
choice,  and  there  is  one  of  them  now  in  the  church  unoc- 
cupied, and  ready  for  whoever  wishes  for  it.  Notwithstanding 
some  eccentricities  tn  his  character,  he  was,  however,  upright 
and  inteliigent,  and  possessed  all  the  learning  of  his  day  ;  and 
at  his  decease  was  universally  lamented  as  a  most  excellent 
magistrate. 

On  his  monument  in  the  church,  he  is  represented  in  a  pos* 
ture  ready  for  wrestling;  and  on  another  part  of  it,  he  appears 
thrown  by  Tiftt^,  accompanied  with  a  stanza  said  to  be  written 
b^  Dn  Freind, 

**  Quem  modo  str&visti  longo  tn  certmuSne  tempniSj 

Hit;  recubuit  itritanum  cUrusin  orbe  pugil 
Jam  primus  straCuy  ;  pftcter  ta  viccrttomiies  ; 
De  to  ctiani  Ticlor,  quandoresurgct,  erit." 
This  whimsical  epitaph  has  been  translated, 

'*  At  length  he  faJli,  the  long^  Jong  contest's  o'er, 
And  Time  Uu  thrown,  whom  none  e*cr  threw  before  . 
Yet  boast  not  Time  !  thy  victory,  Tor  he 
At  last  shall  rise  again,  and  conquer  thee." 
Through  his  great  fondness  for  this  manly  exercise,  he  tram* 
ed  not  only  his  servants  and  neighbours,  but  also  many  others 
to  it,  and  often  exhibited  his  pupils  on  public  occasiuns  with  no 
Jittle  fame  :  and  by  his  will  he  lefl  a  guinea  to  be  wrestled  for 
every  Midsummer's  day,  as  well  as  muney  to  the  ringers,  of 
whom  he  alway:^  made  one  upon  these  occasions.  Ili.4  fondness 
for  displaying  his  skill  in  Lai  in  was  almost  equal  to  that  of 
wrestling:  over  a  seat  which  formerly  stood  by  the  road  side, 
was  this  inscription  : 

^  Hie  sedeas  Viator  si  iu  dcfessus  es  ambulando,*' 


IVOTTIKOUAMSIIiai. 


SOI 


Nay,  even  his  horse  block  waa  made  a  reporter  to  posterity  of 
ibe  honour  of  a  visit  from  a  Judge  on  the  circuit  by»  "Hinc 
Jusliciarius  Dormer  ec^uum  ascendere  solebat  V 

His  book  on  the  "  In  play,  or  the  Cornish  Hug  Wrestler/* 
contains  many  quaiat  specimens  not  only  of  his  style  but  of 
hia  ideas  on  that  subject ;  and  an  admirer  of  hi.s  a  Mr.  Tunstall^ 
says  in  a  prefatory  address^  that  Horace  was  wrong  in  satirize 
ing  the  Roman  youths  for  hissing  the  tragedies  at  the  Amphi* 
theatre  and  calling  for  their  wrestlers  and  boxers  »*-he  then 
prophesies  that, 

*^ Vigorous  J outb5  Will  cxcrcite  I  he  field. 

And  fam'd  Olympia,  to  tb^  Btmmj  }  idd  ; 
Then  new  epochal  fium  thj  aporU  shall  riic, 
And  future  jears  be  reckon 'd  from  thj  priac  ;* 
Aftd  meti  shmtl  qttettion  where  the  dnto  to  ptice. 
To  thy  tic w  annuls  or  tt>  Anna's  peacc^^^^ 
Tbe  Jimber  minnetj  and  ftiJit^atic  shrug, 
Shtdl  yield  tiie  Iwaour  tu  thy  Corntsh  Hugg* 
Then  cheated  dacD^eU  AhulJ  Jici  more  embrace 
Tbe  feeble  uffipring  of  a  flimsy  race, 
But  cjuii  their  Bullicit  aad  discard  (heir  Beaux, 
Atid  (torn  tliy  ring  their  tusty  husbindi  cbod^e^** 


Sir  Thoiwas  htmself,  in  speaking  of  the  excellence  of  bis 
art,  says  **  I  receive  no  liroberUams,  no  darling  sucking  bottles 
who  must  not  rise  at  Midsummer  till  eleven  of  the  clock,  till 
^e  fire  has  aired  his  room,  and  clothes,  of  his  colliquatiFe 
veats,  raised  by  high  sauces  and  spicy  forced  meats^  where 
be  cook  does  the  oHicc  of  the  stomach,  with  the  emetic  tea* 
able«  set  out  with  bread  and  butter  for  's  breakfai^t;  FU  scarce 
admit  a  Sheep  eater;  none  but  beefeaters  will  go  down  with 
me*"  He  then  endeavours  to  inspire  his  readers  with  a  fond- 
ness for  the  art  by  the  hopes  of  gaining  the  approbation  of  the 
fair  sex,  laughs  at  the    Norfolk  Out  play,  and  [though  wtih  a 

marginal 

*  Of  A  guuiea  a  ymr  at  Midiuintnct  *  *  I 


an 


XOTTHrODAMSniftK. 


Diarghml  note  cif  Ilmii  soii  qrd  maly  pmse,)  giTcs  a  *ly  hint 
abaut  the  Bedfordshire  In  play,  and  the  close  Comish  Hug. 

Near  to  Bunny  is  Bradmorc,  a  mere  harolct,  bat  noticed 
here  from  its  having  a  Tower  and  spire  viithoui  a  ekwtch :  the 
latter  was  burnt  down  some  years  ago^  and  the  inhabitantf 
|o  to 
p«;  BwDfivaTON,  which,  however,  is  only  a  Chapelry  t<^  FkfUf* 
ford  the  mother  churchi  standing  in  a  field.  This  ancient 
churchi  built  in  the  Saxon  style,  had  a  lofty  spire  steeple  and 
many  curious  monuments  with  cross-legged  figures  ;  but  bar* 
ing  been  long  neglected,  and  become  so  ruinoxis  as  to  be  in 
danger  of  falling,  a  license  was  obtained  from  the  archbishop 
in  I773,  to  pull  it  down.  For  this  purpose  some  of  the  work- 
men from  the  neighbouring  coHicries  were  employed,  who*  by 
their  architectural  skill  joined  to  the  taste  of  the  church  war- 
dens for  the  time  being,  contrived  to  mutilate  and  even  to  de- 
stroy almost  all  the  monumental  memorials.  Indeed  Mr. 
Throsby  asserts  that  the  materials  were  taken  to  mend  the 
Toads,  to  build  bridges*  and  erect  pigsties,  and  the  grave  stones 
taken  up  to  cover  the  sink  holes  in  the  village  streets  ! 

The  village  of  Ruddington  itself  is  of  considerable  size;  tl 
has  a  respectable  free  school  founded  by  James  Peacock,  citi- 
zen of  London  in  IGll  ;  and  here  also  was  formerly  a  college 
founded  by  William  Babyngton,  Esq.  by  license  of  king  Hen- 
ry the  sixth,  for  a  warden  and  four  chaplains,  which  he  endowed 
with  revenues  vaJued  at  30/.* 

The  chapel  is  of  con^derable  antiquity*  and  is  mentioned  by 
Thoroton;  and  here  is  every  Sunday  a  dole  of  bread  to  the 
poor  who  attend  Divine  Service,  amounting  to  four  dozen  and 
a  half  of  loaves. 

The  tourist  will  find  mucli  amusement  in  hjs  ramble  to  the 
fcoatb  east  of  Nottingham,  (still  in  Rushclifte  hundred)  and  the 
first  object  of  Ms  notice,  after  admiring  the  commodious  ca* 
nal  ftitb  its  bridges  wharfs,  £ic.  will  be 

Wt.T 


'  Twiuer**  MonanftcoVit 


KOTTrirGHAMSHIKE, 


50$ 


West  Bridgsford,  a  pleasing  well  hMt,  little  irtUage.  Its 
church  is  dedicated  to  St.  GileSj  and  consists  of  a  naye  and 
side  aisle;  its  light  tower*  which  contains  three  bells^  appears 
lo  great  advantage  peeping  alxive  the  trees  which  surround  tt; 
its  interior  is  kept  in  very  neat  order,  and  it  has  still  some  re- 
mains of  armorial  glass^  which  the  annua)  beaiitifiers  have  not 
yet  begun  to  whitewash.  "The  Trent  goes  from  Clifton  to 
the  bridge  of  Nottingliam,  called  the  Trent  bridge,  and  aa- 
ciently  Htthe  botke  bridges;  at  the  south  end  whereof  ts  the 
town  of  Brtdgeford  built  by  the  famous  Lady  of  Mercia,  to  re- 
repress  the  violence  of  the  Banes*  who  possessed  Nottingw 
ham/*  * 

Edw ALTON  is  a  small  village  on  the  London  road,  not  very 
remarkable  fur  neatness  or  comfort  ^  but  this  must  in  a  great 
degree  be  attributed  to  its  moorish  situation,  Throsby  says, 
that  some  years  ago  Ihe  land  could  scarcely  be  let  at  any  price; 
the  improved  system  of  drainage,  however,  has  now  improved 
the  parish,  consisting  of  700  acres  of  old  inclosure.  In  the 
yard  of  the  chapel,  which  is  dedicated  to  the  Holyrood,  there  is  a 
grave  stone  of  an  old  woman,  who  possessing  some  landed 
property,  was  supposed  by  the  sepulchral  poet  of  the  village 
to  have  lived  upon  the  fat  of  the  land,  as  he  has  added  to  the 
Qsual  obituary  notice, 

"Sbe  draak  good  ale,  good  punch*  and  wine  ; 
And  llr'd  to  the  sgc  of  ninety  nine/* 


ToLLERTON  Hall  the  seat  of  Pendoc  Neale  Barry,  Esq.  is  a 
fihort  distance  from  Edwalton,  The  house  has  been  lately  re- 
built in  imitation  of  the  Gothic  ^vith  towers>  turrets,  &c*  and 
with  a  cloister  which  communicates  with  the  church.  It  is  a 
pleaMHg  looking  building;  but  wants  that  vastness  bolh  of 
height  and  extent  which  is  the  very  essence  of  Gothic  sublimity, 
and  w  iibout  which,  towers,  turrets,,  and  pointed  windows,  are 

almost 
•  Harl  Ctfl.  368,  53. 


tCM 


trOtTlKGIIAMSnllLE* 


iilroost  as  absurd  as  baillements  on  a  pigstye,  or  a  hmy  cart ! 
Tbc  grounds  are  very  extensive,  and  i^  put  into  good  orderj 
would  have  a  fine  eil'ect,  though  they  lie   entirely  an  a  tUtm' 
The  new  gateway*  and  the  lodge  near  it,  together  with  the 
bridge,  will  all  assimilate  well  with  the  surrounding  scenery. 

The  village  is  very  small,  the  church  ancient;  and  the  Faf-l 
nonage  house  a  comfortable  and  respectable  looking  residence. 

To  give  even  slight  notices  of  Coigravep  Piumtre,  and  seve- 
ral other  pleasing  little  villages  in  this  neighbourhood^  would] 
far  exceed  our  possible  limits;  nor  can  we  say  more  of  Key*\ 
worthy  than,  that  although  a  village  of  not  more  than  thirty] 
houses,  it  has  not  only  a  church  but  also  a  meeting  hotisi  j 
lately  erected.  The  church,  which  h  dedicated  to  St,  Mary! 
Magdalen,  has  a  nave  and  two  dark  side  aisles,  and  a  curious 
tower  with  another  raised  upon  it. 

Stanton  on  the  Wdlds,  is  another  small  place  in  this ' 
neighbourhood,  which  we  were  not  tempted  to  examine  with 
any  very  critical  accuracy  whilst  peJestrianizing  over  the. 
Wolds i  butThrosby  says,  that  the  church  is  below  descriptiofi 
and  is  of  all  other?^  within  and  without  (with  respect  to  th^ 
latter  of  which  we  can  fully  agree  with  himj  the  most  despi* 
cable  he  ever  saw.  When  he  was  here  about  twenty  years 
ago,  one  family  only  went  to  it,  making  a  congregation  of  four 
or  fife;  and  the  other  families,  he  says,  were  alt  either  Dissen- 
ters or  Abseniers,  and  hke  the  pious  folks  in  Cromweirs  time 
amused  themselvea  with  breaking  the  church  windows.  By 
the  parish  register  of  1788,  it  appears  that  a  young  damsel  of 
the  parish  was  baptized  and  married  on  the  same  day  ;  at  the 
age  of  tweiUy* 

In  this  neighbourhood  the  remains  of  the  ancient  Fosscway 

are  in  high  preservation,  or  more  strictly  speaking,  have  not 

-yet  been  destroyed.     Uorsky  observes,  ^  that   this   Fosse  way 

proceeds  directly  from  Bath  to  Lincoln,  and  has  been  continued 

beyond  Bath  as  far  as  Ikhesler,  if  Jiot  quite  to  the  sea.     Stuke- 

I* 

*  KoT»1ey  Brittn*  Roni.  388. 


XOTTl!?GHAHSfItIll. 


205 


iy,  indeed,  thinks  it  has  been  carried  as  far  as  Seaton  on  the 
coast.  Great  part  of  ihis  road,  which  ts  undoubtedly  of  Ro- 
man workmanship,  has  had  no  part  of  an  Uer  on  it>  though 
running  through  the  very  heart  of  the  kingdom,  except  in  llie 
latter  part  of  the  sixth  Iter  of  Antoninus  and  middle  part  of  the 
eighth;  but  the  route  from  FenowiV  (Clay center)  to  Lindum,  (nowr 
Lincoln)  has  undouhtedly,  in  the  opinion  of  Horsley,  been 
on  the  other  part  of  itj  and  he  seems  to  join  in  the  opinion 
i>f  others  that  it  has  been  continued  from  Lincoln  to  the  sea 
coast* 

Speaking  of  the  Lodge  upon  the  Woldi,  which  is  in  this  neigh- 
bourhood, Stiikeley  says  that  in  1724  here  was  an  Inn,  under 
a  great  wood  upon  the  declension  of  a  stiff'  clayey  hilL  Here 
the  pavement  upon  the  road  is  very  manifest,  of  great  blue  flag 
utones  laid  edgeways  very  carefully*  The  quarries,  whence 
they  took  them,  arc  upon  the  side  of  the  hilL  This  pavement 
it  two  feet  broad  or  more,  and  is  still  very  visible  where  not 
covered  with  dirt,*  It  is  still  in  the  same  state,  and  gives  a 
very  good  idea  of  the  ancient  Roman  roads;  and  about  0\v- 
thorpe  particularly  is  so  sunk  In  the  Fosst^  that  an  army  mighl^ 
be  marched  without  observation  for  many  miles. 

OwriioQFE  Hall  is  now  a  venerable  pile,  and  stands  in  a 
very  retired  situation,  forming  an  object  of  considerable  inte- 
rest from  its  connection  with  a  man  of  some  eminence  during 
the  civil  wars. 

Colonel  Julius  Hutchinson,  its  founder,  was  an  active  par- 
liamentary partisan  in  this  county  during  that  unhappy  period, 
and  was  for  some  time  governor  of  Nottingham  (!astle.  Though 
he  gat  in  judgement  upon  his  unfortunate  Sovereign,  yet  it  ap- 
pears that  no  very  active  means  were  taken  to  apprehend  him 
at  the  Restoration,  and  he  seems  to  have  lived  sccretlt/t  though 
perhaps  by  a  tacit  forbearance,  in  his  house  at  Owthorpe  for 
some  years,  in  which  was  a  room  made  for  defence,  as  Thros- 
by  nay?,  with  apertures  to  hre  through  in  case  of  an  attempt  to 

take 
Vid€  Stukclf j*j  Inner  try. 


S06 


KOTTIlfOHAIfSHiaE* 


take  hint.     Such  a  defence  fts  lhi&«  indeed,   could  never  have 
Ijeen   seriously  intended,  and  would  have   been   of  very  litilc 
avail.    He  had  no  opportunity  of  trying  it,  however,  for  be  was 
seized  within  a  few  yards  of  hb  own  house,  whilst  on  his  way 
to  the  church  that  stands  within  less  than  a  stone's  throw  of  H* 
in  the  year  1653  at  a  period  when  many  were  taken  up  for  aup« 
posed  treasonable  oircnce^;  some  tried,  and  others  imprisoa^d 
for  life,  amongst  the   latter  of  wliorn  was  the  Colonel.      Mr. 
Dickinson  in    his   History  of  Southwell,   observes  that  thougb 
old  and  infirm,  and  particularly  out  of  health,  yet  he  was  hur«j 
fied  in  a  dark  night  by  a  party  of  horse  under  the   commandl 
of  Cornet  Atkinson,  without   open  accusation  or  written  war- 
rant,  from  his  dwelling  to  \  he   gaol  at  Newark,  where  he  wai  ^ 
detained  for  several  days.  Now  we  will  grant  that  thia  treatment 
was  illegal,  and  unconstitutional ;  yet  surely  Colonel  Hutchin- 
son, who,  without  legal  warrant  but  merely  by  a  precept  issued 
by  rebels,  bad  sat  upon  the  trial  of  his  Sovereign^  and  without] 
any  law  whatever    had  condemned   hrm   to  death,  must   havgl 
been  the  last  person  to  complain  of  illegal  treatment  I 

The  house   itself  is   now  occupied   by  a   maiden  lady  who] 
lives  in  great  retirement,*      It  is  large,  and  forms  a  sqanre^J 
with  handsome,  lofty,   and    convenient  apartments,  but  witbl 
little  ornament,     A  handsome  flight  of  steps  leads   into  a  hall^l 
which  occupies  the  centre  of  the  ediBce  and  is  lighted  by  two 
large  windows  at  the  entrance,  and  by  one  of  very  considera* 
ble  size  at  the  further  end.      The  view  from  it  is  very  fine,  as  ' 
it  stands  on  an  eminence  at  a  small  distance  Irom  the  foot  of  the 
range  of  hills,  below  which   the  Fosseway  lakes  its  direction, 
and  the  eastern  side  opens  upon  a  very  fine  terrace  ;  but  as  the 
house  has  been  almost  deserted  ever  since  the  beginning  of  the 
last  century  its  gardens  and  grounds  are  rjoitc  m  a  state  of  deso- 
lation.    The  Editor  of  the  Colonel's  Memoirs,  when  speaking 

of 


*  Miss  Eeushaw  is  the  occupant.    The  preiont  pos5«i5or  o^  Owtliorpc,  hj 
pareliajic  in  i773>  19  Sir  George  Smitli  Bromley,  fis rt, 
9 


VOTTlNGHAMSUiaE. 


2or 


I 
I 


I 

I 


of  the  sale  of  ibis  place,  observes  that  the  most  extraordinary 

and  gratifying  clrcumsiauce  (to  the  existing  tlescendaiib)  was 
the  Teneratiou  tor  ihe  family  which  still  subsisted,  and  which 
at  the  period  when  the  Wt  possessor  had  by  his  will  ordered 
this  and  all  his  estates  in  Nottin^;bam shire  to  he  sold,  and  the 
produce  given  to  strangers^  induced  the  tenants  to  oBer  a  large 
advance  of  their  reoUj  and  a  good  2share  of  the  money  neces* 
sary  for  purchasing  the  estates,  in  order  to  enable  the  rentains 
of  the  family  to  come  and  settle  among  them* 

The  church  which  is  very  small,  and  dedicated  to  St.  Mar- 
garet, stands  near  the  house.  It  consists  only  of  the  nave  and 
one  aisle,  with  a  small  chancel.  The  tower  is  low,  and  has 
but  one  belL  Wilhin  are  several  large  monuments  of  the 
Hutchinson  family,  consisting  of  hgures  as  large  as  life  laying 
under  canopies  supported  by  carved  and  twisted  pillars,  &.c. 
and  decorated  with  all  the  monumental  frippery  of  the  seven* 
teenth  century. 

Colston  JSasset  is  close  to  Owthorpe,  and  is  a  plea^iing  lit* 
tU  village,  with  a  very  elegant  house,  the  residence  of  William 
Milnes,  Esq.  The  church  has  a  peal  of  five  very  deep  and 
solemn  toned  bells.  The  villagers  have  a  tradition  that,  when 
this  place  was  sufTering  under  the  plague  in  1604,  the  inhabi- 
tants of  Nottingham  and  Bingham  not  only  refused  to  permit 
any  articles  to  be  brought  from  hence  to  their  maikets,  but 
Ijven  cut  ofi'  all  communication  with  them  whatever,  so  that 
Jay  were  left  to  shift  for  themselves,  to  live  or  die,  as  it  pleas- 
ed God.  jj 
KtNOULTOM  nikky  be  distinguished  from  hence  by  the  lofly 
^wer  of  its  chapel,  which  we  believe  has  been  lately  rebuilt* 
baving  long  been  in  a  wretched  state.  The  church,  dedicated 
E|o  St,  Wilford,  is  now  a  ruin  at  some  distance  fryin  the  villagi^ ; 
t)ut  there  is  nothing  further  worthy  of  notice. 

At  HicKLiNG   some  silver  Roman  coin.*4  have  been  found ; 
I'hich  are  in  confirmation  of  the  opinion  of  Camden^  that  it 
*was  a  Roman  station  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Fosseway, 

WjLLOUGHiY 


l*OTtf!IGlfAMSHIRt. 

WtttotfCHBY  ON  THE  WoLi>  IS  Considered  by  Horsley  as 

an   ancient  Hnman   station,   and  as   the    Vernometum  so  of^i^n 
mistaken  for  ^fargidinmm. 

The  village  is  pretty  extensive,  and  has  an  appearance  ex- 
tremely rural,  from  the  whole  length  of  it  being  shadect  by  mi 
double  row  of  trees,  whose  thick   embowering  foliage  sbelttrt 
its  beaut ifu!  cottages.      Though   so    retired  in   its  situation,  it 
could  not,  however^  escape  the  baneful  effects  of  civil  commo^J 
tion,  but  was  the  scene  of  a  bloody  contest  in  the  unhappy] 
days  of  Charles,  an   action  having  taken  place  here  at  Wit* 
loughby  field,     A  cross  of  a  kfty  construction  stands  in  the  cen-^ 
tre  of  the  village,  but  having  no  inscription,  iu  origin  or  date 
is  unknckwn.      It  consists  of  one  stone,  five  yards  long;  and 
its  appearance  gave  such  offence  to  the  pious  soldiery  of  Croni* 
well  in  the  civil  wars,  that  they  had  tied  ropes  round  *t  in  order  J 
to  pull  it  down ;  but  their  religious  enthusiasm  was  so  much  J 
damped  by  some  strong  beer  given  to  them  by  the  vicar,  after  [ 
he  had  made   a  long  speech  in  defence  of  its  innocence,  thai 
It  was  permitted  by  those  apostles  of  the  church  militant  to  re- 
main unmolested* 

The  church  is  dtdicafed  to  St  Mary  and  All  Saints,  and  bat  I 
I  a  nave  with  two  side  aisles  ;  one  of  which  is  inclosed  by  railing 
in  order  to  preserve  the  family  memorials  of  the  Willoughbys. 
In  this  latter,  at  the  entrance  is  a  stone  with  this  imcriptton  t 

"  Here  lietb  the  body  of  Colonel  Stanhope,  who  was  slain  in 
Willoughby  field  in  the  month  of  July  1648,  in  the  9ith  year 
of  his  age*  being  a  soldier  of  king  Charles  the  l»t/' 

A   table   monument  surrounded  with  battlements,  stands  in 

the  centre,  with  angels  in  niches;  on  it  lies  a  knight  in  armour 

I  'with  a  roll  or  wreath  round  his  helmet,  and  by  his  side  his  lady 

•  with  a  curious  mitred  head  dress. 

A  very  graceful  monumental  tigxire  of  a  lady,  with  a  dog  at 

•  her  feet,  is  placed  under  the  south  wall ;  and  in  the  choir,  un- 
der an  arched  wall,  whb  plain  iTiodem  pillars  supporting  it  in 

front, 


KOTTtKOHAlfSlII&B. 


209 


front,  iliercU  another  kuigbt  in  warlike  capamon,  his  tomb 
completely  coyered  with  ai'morlal  bearings. 

WiLLouGHBY  Brook  Hes  between  Willoaghby  and  Over- 
Broughton  ;  and  on  the  Willoughby  side  of  the  road«  there  i«  a 
turnulus  which  marks  the  i^icinity  of  the  Roman  station.  This 
is  now  called  Croeshill;  and  there  i^a  revel  or  annual  festival 
held  upon  it,  which  is  supposed  to  be  founded  on  some  tradi- 
tionary festival  of  the  Roman  mythology. 

Stukely  tells  us  that  the  old  Roman  town  (of  which  the  re- 
mains of  the  ttggcr,  or  ditch  and  mound  surrounding  the  camp 
still  exist)  was  in  a  field  called  "  Heninga/'  a  British  word  al- 
lusive to  the  ancient  meadows.  Here^  accord  irtg  to  the  iradi- 
llon,  there  was  an  old  city  once  called  Long  Billingtm  ;  but 
since  that,  the  Blackfield,  in  common  discourse,  from  the 
colour  and  excessive  richness  of  the  soil  which  never  requires 
manure. 

Tradition  also  says,  that  at  a  barn  at  a  place  called  ffW/i^ 
there  once  was  a  church  ;  and  also  that  the  city  once  extended 
80  far«  Stukely  adds«  that  in  his  time  the  people  in  the  vicinity 
had  a  notion  of  great  riches  being  under  ground ;  and  that  there 
was  a  vulgar  report,  that  one  balk  or  mere  (that  is  a  division 
between  the  plowed  fields)  had  as  much  money  utider  it  as 
would  have  purchased  the  whole  lordship;  but  it  seems  they 
had  been  often  frightened  by  spirits  whilst  attempting  to  dig  it 
up,  of  which  also  there  \%'ere  many  curious  stories.  Notwith- 
standing these  sprites,  however,  of  late  years  some  coins  and 
other  antiquities  have  been  found. 

Upper  or  Over  Broughton  has  nothing  remarkable  |  but 
we  mention  it  as  a  pleasant  village,  and  the  last  on  the  London 
road,  being  on  the  very  verge  of  Leicestershire,  Near  it  also 
is  Widmerpoolc  through  >^hich  runs  the  coach  road  ;  and  the 
country  rising  here  from  the  vale  of  Belvoir^  into  the  Leices- 
tershire hills,  produces  a  diversity  of  prospect  extremely 
pleasing. 

The  tourist  will  not  quit  the  enf  irons  of  Nottingham,  without 
Vot.  XIL  O  Tisiting 


$ie 


H0TTSirOif4M9HlR«« 


Visiting  CoLwicK  Hall*  the  seat  of  tjic  Musicn  kmWy,  wh^ 
Uhoogh  standing  on  a  flat,  yet  being  backed  with  tome  J 
I  irooded   JiiHsj  and    having   the   silver  Tri^nt  in  front*  wttb  llic 
extensive  plains  on   ils  southern  bsink>  has  a  very  impresstre 
appearance.     It  is  about  three  mi  lets  from  Nottingham*  on  the 
L  norik  bank  of  the  river,  and  forms  the  termination  to  a  most 
agreeable  evening's  walk.     The   steep  rock  at  its  fetr^  milig 
in  abrupt  precipices,  and  finely  tufted  vvith  overhanging  woodv  i 
producer  a  good  effect  in  every  point  of  view,  and  in  the  stiJl^  ^ 
Uhe  silent  hour  of  eveningj  throws  a  sombre  shade  urer  Use 
I  f^iilage  church  embosomed  in  foliage*      The  Park  is  bot  sma1l» 
i  but  comprobend:i^  much  of  this   charming   scenery  within  its^ 
ljiaU»  and  is  stocked  with  the  antlered  natives  of  the  forest*^ 
I  The  pleasure  grounds  and  crnamcnta!  plantations  are^  coinpara'*  ] 
^lively*  more  extensive  thun  the  park,  and  exhibit  a  good  &peci^ 
Imen  of  modern  improvement  engrafted  on  the  ancient  moiteL 
I  But  the  bouse  is  the  principal  object,  and  consists  of  a  very 
elegantly  elevated  centre  crowned  with  a  pediment  resting  dci 
I  four  welt  proportioned  Ionic  pit lart^>  and  joined  by  two  wiug» 
I  of  one  lofty  story  >|ith  entablature  supported  by  scjuare  pilas* 
Uers  with   plain   capitals,  and   lightened  much  in  its  cfTect  by  a 
i  handsome  baUustraded  parapet;  the  whole  doing  much  credil«f 
iziot  only  to  the  inventive  genius  of  the  iksigner,  Mr  Jobti 
ICarr  of  York,  but  also  to  the  executive  taste  of  the  luprrin* 
^lending  architect,  Mr.  StretLon.      In  the  grounds  there  Is  also 
(Well  consiructedj  and  indeed  even  clegnnt,  dogkeiuieJ*  cob* 
Jductcd  bv  the  same  artist<i. 

The  Church  which  stands  ctos^  to  the  hoo'^ej  is  dedicated  to 

,  John  the  Biiptist,  and  contains  some  ancient  inonuments  of 

hhc  Byron   family  ;  ^\m  ^ot  that  of  Musters,  the  present  pos- 

Uesfiorsj  by  one  of  \%hich  on   tUe  norrb  side  of  the  chance t  it 

lappearA  that  the  chancel  was  rebuiltj  and  the  church  repaired, 

by  Sir  John  Clusters*  kt\U  in  1684* 

CAHttoN  is  a  village  of  considerable  size,  near  to  Colwick, 
li^l  U  entirely  supported  by  th^  stocking  mtnufactuff;;  here 
^  aho 


XOTTIVGHAMSHtHZ, 


SU 


a3iK>  is  G£DLnra«  of  which  we  find  nothing  remarkablej  ex* 
cepta  curious  fact  of  an  old  soldier  who  died  in  the  workhouse 
in  I797j  in  the  DGth  yeir  of  his  age>  and  having  been  mail 
the  battles  in  the  German  war  about  the  middle  of  the  last  cen* 
tary,  enjoyed  a  pension  from  Government^  which  enabled  him 
to  live  comfortably  ;  but  having  tried  to  live  in  several  families 
in  the  village^  at  last  boarrled  himself  in  the  workhouse,  where 
he  resided  for  many  years.  Mr.  Throsby.  indeed,  tells  a  long 
story  of  two  stone  coffins  in  the  church  yard,  which  have  oc» 
ca  si  on  ally  had  different  tenants,  who  on  these  occasions^  like 
the  victims  on  the  iron  bed  of  Procrustes,  were  always  made  to 
fit  them.  He  aUo  mentions  a  stone  which  '*  bare  this  inscrip- 
tion,  but  now  defaced^  >"  Here  lieth  the  body  of  Joseph 
Smalley,  whose  mother  was  60  years  old,  when  he  was  born/' 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  i^  Holme  Pi£Rpoii<T,a 
pleasant  but  very  small  village*  *' Within  this  hundred  (Bing- 
ham) about  two  miles  beneath  the  bridges  of  Notts^  upon  the 
said  rivtr,  is  the  town  of  Holme,  called  Holme  Pierpoint,  in 
which  is  the  possession  of  Sir  Henry  Pierpoint,  a  very  aiicieni 
gentleman  of  the  jhire.  Before  it  waj  the  inheritance  of  one 
Manvers,  whose  hetre  the  ancestor  of  Sir  Henry  Pierpoint 
married  about  the  time  of  Edward  Int." 

Holme  Pierpoint  House  is  still  a  large  and  ancient  build- 
ing, though  much  of  it  at  times  has  been  pulled  down*  It 
stands  close  to  the  church,  and  is  now  completely  repaired 
and  cased  in  imitation  of  stone,  forming  a  very  handsome  spe* 
cimen  of  the  Gothic  of  the  later  ages. 

The  church  is  rich  tn  mural  monuments^  in  altar  torn bs^  and 
in  ancient  armorial  brasses.  Its  form  is  Gothic,  but  in  the  style 
of  the  time  of  Henry  the  seventh,  with  large  and  numerous 
windowi,  a  square  tower^  and  a  handsome  lofty  spire^  and  con* 
listing  of  a  nave  aud  side  aisle. 

The  family  vault  of  the  late  dukea  of  Kingston,  and  of  the 
present  Pierpoint  family,  is  in  the  north  side  of  the  choir, 
with  a  lofty  monument  over  it  supported   by  Corinthian  pil- 

O  9  lars. 


tit 


NOTTlK0HAM5nrilE^ 


jlars,  and  most  gloomily  ornamented  with  death's  heads  iis 
Iwreaths,  intermixed  with  fruit  and  foliage.  Its  inscription  i» 
ather  in  a  superior  style  of  sepulchral  bombast.  ''  Here  lyeth 
the  Illustrious  PrinccsM  Gertrude,  Countess  of  Kingston,  daugh- 
[  ter  to  Henry  Talbot,  Esq.  son  to  George  late  Earl  of  Shrews- 
ury.  She  w'as  married  to  the  most  Nuble  and  Excellent  Lord 
Hobert,  Earl  of  Kingston,  &c/'  A  very  fine  altar  tomb  to  the 
m^emory  of  Sir  Henry  Pier  pot  nl,  knt.  in  1615,  ia  on  the  south 
side ;  he  is  in  armour,  and  in  xhe,  usual  attitude  of  prayer.  On 
the  sides  of  the  tomb  are  a  son,  four  daughters,  and  an  iiifant 
in  swaddling  clothei» ;  and  over  it  a  highly  ornamented  tablet 
containing  the  inscription.  Near  it  is  another  who,  by  his  habit 
of  ft  pilgrim,  seems  to  have  been  to  the  Holy  Land  ;  he  has 
angels  playing  round  W%  head«  Here  too  was  buried  young 
Oldham,  considered  a&  a  poet  of  considerable  merit,  and  pa- 
onized  by  William  Earl  of  Kingston,  who  also  wrote  the 
\txy  elegant  inscription  on  hia  monument* 

Radcliffe  on  Trevt  near  to  this,  is  particularly  remarkable 
'br  its  very  romantic  scenery,  standing  tjpon  a  lofty  cliff  on 
the  south  bank  of  Trent,  from  which  it  takes  its  name,  and 
nhtch  aUbrds  it  some  very  fine  prospects  over  the  vale  watered 
by  that  meandering  river.  Its  vicinity  is  extremely  pleasing 
from  the  goodness  of  the  roads,  and  from  the  number  of  gen* 
teel  villas  which  embellish  it  The  village  itself  is  very  ex- 
tensive, and  is  very  active  in  the  hosiery  manufactory.  The 
church  dedicated  to  St.  Mary,  has  a  handsome  spire  steeple, 
with  four  belU;  the  nave  and  chancel  are  both  spaciouSp  and 
kept  in  good  order ;  but  the  only  monument  of  note  is  a  wooden 
figure  of  Stephen  Ratciifle  the  founder,  and  which  must  there* 
fore  be  very  ancient.* 
'  BINGHAM 


It  hai  be«ii  propoted  as  a  question  to  antiqttartcSi  wh\t  arc  xfi^^dtn  rtio- 
.nonicntal  £gure«  icl  up,  iti  pli*ccs  where  iloiie  might  have  bcf n  ewilj  pro- 
cured *  bat  wctef  wiswercd. 


XOTTIKGHAMSBTRE* 


1215 


BINGHAM 


lies  a  short  distance  from  RadcHffe*  Its  situation  i&  rather  low ; 
bot being  surrounded  with  bigh  groonds  all  in  a  rich  state  of 
cultivation*  the  views  in  its  i^icinity  are  both  extensive  and 
pleasing.  Tlie  town  nse\f,  though  once  of  considerable  re- 
pute from  its  religious  establishment  and  collegiate  churcb,  of 
a  date  nearly  as  old  as  the  Conquest,  is  now  nothing  but  an  in* 
considerable  struggling  place,  but  still  possessing  a  market, 
and  several  fairs:  these  are  on  February  the  l:kh  and  14th  fur 
horses,  for  agricultural  purposes,  and  lor  draught;  on  the  first 
Tliursday  in  May  for  horses,  horned  cattle,  sheep,  and  swine  * 
and  on  Whitsun-Thursday*  31st  May,  Sth  aud  9ih  of  Novem- 
ber, for  young  horses  and  hops* 

Bingham  once  contained  the  college  of  St,  Mary,  which  Tan- 
ner, in  his  Monasticon,  observes  was  valued,  according  to  Spetid, 
at  40t ;  but  he  merely  calls  it  a  Guild,  rated  at  4L  Of  this,  haw- 
ever,  there  are  now  no  vestiges,  nor  of  two  chapels  which 
once  had  eicitttenoe,  as  well  as  a  chantry  in  the  chapel  of  St, 
Elen.  The  market  place  is  very  extensive,  and  has  very  cum* 
fliodious  shambles  j  but  has  nothing  else  worthy  ol  notice.  Near 
Histtie  vicarage,  a  handsome  modern  dwelling,  attached  to  a 
living  of  very  cunsiderable  value.  The  church  deserves  the 
attention  of  the  curious  traveller*  It  is  a  sptcinif  n  of  the  an- 
cient Gothic;  and  though  a  heavy  building  badly  lighted,  owuig 
indeed  to  a  considerable  part  of  the  nave  being  taken  down  in 
UB4  when  it  was  completely  repaired,  it  stiH  possesses  an  air 
of  ecclesiastical  magnificence*  The  chancel  is  lolty  and  spa- 
cious, and  has  a  very  fine  arch  joining  it  to  the  body  of  the* 
church,  but  some  of  the  ornaments  over  this  arch  cannot  fail 
of  exciting  the  risibility  of  the  stranger,  consisting  of  the  royal 
arms  of  queun  Anne,  surrounded  with  gaudy  ornaments  of 
plaisler  work,  with  a  large  collection  of  chubby  cherubs^ 
amouga  whom  the  aspirijig  church  wardens  of  that  day  tiavc 

O  3  contrived 


fpl 


somvoHiiiisBnis* 


cooUiTed  to  iiiCrodace  tbetr  own  nametj  as  briogio^  them  one 
step  nearer  to  heaTen*  Hus  carioqs  melange,  howcTer^  wiiii 
all  its  incoogTQjty^  b  coiuidered  as  tlie  principal  Hon  of  the 
ti^ini- 

The  chancel  has  been  lately  ceiled,  with  other  improre* 
meots  at  the  expense  of  a  late  jDCiimbent ;  and  the  nave  and 
two  side  ables  are  very  spaciom*  Here  are  many  tombs,  but 
none  of  any  particular  merit.  Mr.  Throsby,  indeed,  remarks 
that  all  the  la<ius  have  remarkably  good  characters  on  their 
tombstones ;  and  he,  therefore,  concludes  that  e?en  now  a  maa 
might  hare  a  chance  for  a  good  wife  here. 

Here  is  a  good  Charity  School  for  children  of  both  sexes  ; 
bai  originally  erected  for  the  education  and  support  of  thirty 
poor  boys,  by  the  benevolent  subscriptions  of  the  neighboor- 
iag  gentry. 

It  U  a  curious  fact  that  in  the  recent  retmns  of  population, 
the  sexes  in  Bingham  were  stated  to  be  e^ual,  or  663  of  each, 
amounting  to  1336. 

Since  the  Conquest  this  place  has  gone  through  a  Tariety  of 
possessors^  and  once  belonged  to  a  family  to  which  tt  gave  a 
name.  They,  however,  seem  to  have  lost  all  property  here» 
and  it  has  since  come  to  various  hands. 

With  respect  to  its  biography^  we  must  noc  omit  to  mention 
a  Mr.  White,  who,  though  in  the  huroble  station  of  a  ftchi>ol« 
master  here,  W2fe  yet  recommended  by  Dr.  Maskelyne  to  his 
Majesty  as  a  proper  person  to  assist  in  the  prosecution  of  a 
very  considerable  astronomical  work,  which,  nevertheless^  ho 
modestly  declined.  He  was  for  many  years,  the  compiler  of 
almanacks  for  the  Stationers'  company,  and  published  the 
'*  Celestial  Atlas*'  which  was  so  long  in  very  high  repute.  Ilia 
astronomical  knowledge  appears  to  have  been  entirely  the  re- 
salt  of  his  own  industry;  be  died  in  1783  at  the  age  of  61. 

A  curious  instance  of  bigotry,  beyond  the  grave,  is  recorded 
here  of  one  Henry  Porter,  who,  differing  in  opinion  with  his  re* 
lativ*:son  religious  matters^  actually  gave  orders  that  his  body 

should 


KOTTIKGIIAVSflllll&i 


W5 


should  n^t  be  buried  among  ibeni,  but  ugainst  the  north  wall 
cu  the  outside  of  the  church* 

Mr.  Throsby^  iti  hi.i  additioud  to  Thoiotoztj  gives  a  long  list 
of  events,  amongst  which  are  some  anecdotes  of  a  drunken 
clergyman,  and  of  another  who  fur  a  series  of  years  v  as  in- 
tane:  but  these  perhaps  are  memorabilia  which  we  ought  only 
lo  remember  to  forget.  Nor  is  it  particularly  neceitsary  to  re- 
cord the  breaking  open  of  the  church,  or  the  setting  fire  to  the 
town  in  1710.  Two  o{  hi*  tnsiances,  however,  we  may  notice : 
one  of  twelve  young  men,  whose  united  eKertions  in  some  his*' 
I  irionic  efforts  m  the  winter  of  17B3  enabled  Uicm  lo  raise  lOOA 
to  bi:  settled  on  the  poor  of  the  parit^li  for  ever ,  and  the  other 
of  Thomas  Groves^  a  poor  lad,  born  in  17€M),  and  put  out  ap* 
prentice  to  a  cabinet  maker  from  whose  service  he  eloped,  and 
having  entered  as  a  private  in  the  msLrine  corps,  rose  at  length 
to  the  rank  of  Colonel,  dying  in  17&0,  after  seventy  five  years 
of  service. 

Shelford  stands  on  the  banks  olf  the  Trent,  in  a  north  west 
direction  from  Bingham.  Here  was  an  Austin  priory,  built  by 
Ralph  Hanselyn  in  the  time  of  Henry  the  second,  to  the  ho- 
nour of  ihe  blessed  virgin  Mary  ;*  the  scite  of  which  at  the  dis- 
solution was  graut4!d  to  Michael  Stanhope,  ancestor  of  the  Ches^ 
teriseld  family,  the  present  possessors*  Here  was  an  ancteol 
mansion  of  the  family  ;  but  burnt  do\tn  in  the  civil  wars,  hav- 
ing been  a  garrison  for  king  Charles  the  first.  At  that  time 
Colonel  Stanhope,  son  of  the  first  earl  of  Chesterfield,  was  gover- 
nor; but  was  slain  when  it  was  tdken  by  storm  by  tlic  Purlia* 
mentarian  Uoops.  Some  year-*  after  this,  the  family  nmde  some 
additions  to,  and  re|>airs  of,  that  pari  standing  after  the  eil^cts 
of  the  fire ;  it  has  now  the  appearance  of  the  ancient  manor 
houses  of  that  period,  but  is  inliabited  by  a  farmer.  The 
church,  B  respectable  building,  contains  many  monuments  of 
the  Stanhope  family  ;  and  in  the  vault  is  interred  the  late  earl. 

S»>mc  of  the  earlier  generations  of  this  family  built  and  en- 

C)  4  dowed 

•  Tftnner'A  Monasticon. 


VOTTlKGBAMSBTIlfi. 


dowed  in  the  village  an  almshouse,  with  a  chapet  attached  to 
it,  for  six  poor  men,  batch  el  ors  or  widowers.  To  each  ihtre  is 
aj»s>gned  a  hou^e^  a  garden^  and  orchard  ;  they  have  also  an  al- 
lowance of  coals,  two  shillings  per  week,  and  a  cap  and  coat 
every  year.  These,  however,  are  now  reduced  to  four,  of 
whom  one  is  from  SheUord  parish,  another  from  Ged ling,  and 
Vwo  chosen  by  the  incumbent  of  Bingham.  Throsby  gives  a 
curious  plate  of  what  he  calls  a  whimsical  and  puzzling  inscrip- 
tion, on  four  sides  of  a  long  square  stone  in  the  church  yard  j 
but  this  is  nothing  more  than  a  simple  epitaph  ^  and  the  secret 
of  the  enigma  is,  merely  to  read  the  west  side  first,  and  ihea 
take  the  south,  east,  and  north  sides  from  line  to  Hne,  as  one 
inscription* 

East  Bridgepokd  is  a  short  distance  from  Shelford,  on  the 
banks  of  the  Trent,  and  Is  a  very  ancient  village  having  inda- 
bitable  remains  of  a  Roman  camp  pointing  it  out  as  one  of  their 
stations;  and  confirmed,  with  respect  to  its  chronology,  by 
many  coins,  urns,  and  other  antiquities,  dug  op  at  various  times. 
This  place  has  likewise  been  the  possession  and  residence  of 
many  ancient  familiest  there  being  still  much  armorial  glass  in 
the  church,  of  Dering,  Deyncourt,  Babington,  &c*  It  is  evi- 
dent too  that  the  church  was  once  on  a  much  larger  scale ;  but ' 
from  the  decay  of  the  place  itself,  from  inattention,  and  per- 
haps from  sacrilegious  hands  taking  away  its  venerable  walls 
tor  humbler  purpose,*;,  it  is  now  not  only  reduced  in  size,  but' 
bassutfered  much  from  actual  dilapidation,  whilst  many  of  the 
monuments  have  been  defacttd,  others  much  mutilated^  and 
itome  removed  into  the  church  yard  to  perish  through  th<?  at« 
iack«  of  weather.  It  wan,  however,  in  a  much  worse  sute  in 
Mr.  Tliroshy's  time  ;  indeed,  he  complains  oi  it  very  much. 

Here  is  a  Clvarity  School  supported  by  private  contribulioni 
for  teaching  English  and  the  catechism,  to  ten  poor  boys. 

In  modern  history,  this  village  is  remarkable  as  being  the 
birth  place  of  the  rcgicidal  parliamentarian  Colonel  Hacker* 
who  attended  the  unfortunate   Charles  to  his  last  scene,  for 

whicb 


1 .  •  , 
VOTTITTGHAIISBIRE* 


«17 


Mrhich  he  afterwards  sufFeretlas  a  iraitor^  and  bis  estates  were 
confiscated  ;  yet  his  two  brothers  were  active  partizaus  in  the 
royal  cause,  for  which  one  of  them  was  slain* 

But  Bridgeford  is  most  worthy  of  notice  for  its  early  history, 
Stukely  says  that  it  lies  near  a  mite  to  the  right  of  the  Eooiaa 
staitou,  Adpontem,  and  adds  that  doubtless  there  was  a  bridge 
here  in  the  Roman  times*  He  then  says,  *'  here  were  formerly 
great  buildings  and  cellars  on  the  right  hand  as  you  descend  to 
the  Trent^  and  a  qoay  for  vessels  to  unload  at*  The  Homaa 
station  upon  the  fosse^  1  found  to  be  called  Boroughfield,  west 
of  the  road.  Here  a  spring  was  under  the  bedge^  called  Old» 
wark  spring,  very  quick,  running  t*ver  a  fine  gravel,  the  only 
one  hereabouts  that  falls  eastward,  and  not  directly  into  Lhe 
Trent  Hereabouts  1  saw  the  Roman  foundation's  of  walls  and 
floors  of  houses,  composed  of  stontfs  set  edgeways  into  clay^ 
and  liquid  mortar  run  upon  them.  About  a  miltf  from  this  la.U 
station^  upon  an  eminence  of  the  road  beyond  Bingham  lane* 
there   is   a   tumulus,   from   whence  a  hoe  prospect  of  BeUoir« 

Horseley,  however,  does  not  coincide  with  him  in  the  opinion 
of  Ad  Pont€m»  being  in  this  neighbourhood,  but  considers  this 
place  as  the  Margidunum  of  the  sixth  Iter  of  Antoninus;  and 
though  he  does  not  decide  absolutely  whether  Newark  or  South* 
well  is  the  tr\ie  Ad pontarit  yet  he  confirms  his  idea  respecting 
this  place  not  only  by  the  actual  admeasurement,  hut  by  the 
consideration  that  it  is  often  called  Bridgeford  on  ike  hUh  to 
which  he  conceives  its  ancient  adjunct  of  dunum  had  a  re* 
ference.  "  This  station  of  Margidunum-f  is  distant  from  Verno- 
metum  thirteen  miles*  according  to  this  Iter;  but  only  twelve* 
according  to  the  8th.  The  Utter  seems  to  be  the  truer  number* 
unless  we  suppose  the  truth  to  he  between  the  two.  If  we  pro- 
ceed across  the  Fosse,  the  next  station  that  ofler»  it^self,  is  East 
Bridgeford.     The  name  has  led  most  of  our  antiquaries  into  the 

opinion 

•  Stukclfj'a  UintTary,  1  JIof>Iej'»  Brilaii.  Roiaftd.  4S8* 


2iir 


irott  nrnit  A  9f6inits. 


opinion  of  its  being  Ad p&nttm  ;  but  the  numbers  and  dutancei 
ought  to  preponderate.*'  We  shall  notice  this  queslkm  mor^ 
fully  when  we  come  to  Southwell. 

SciLCtETON  is  principally  remarkable  as  the  birtb  place  and 
residence  of  Dr,  TnoaoroN,  the  earliest  topographer  of  this 
country;  and  here  siill  remains  the  old  manor  house  of  the 
family.  In  CarcoUton,  near  to  this,  is  another  building  erected 
by  the  Dr*  himself,  but  now  tti  ruins.  "  Now  is  found  Scre- 
rotonj  ulias  Screaton,  where  is  the  beautiful  house  of  Richard 
Whalley,  Esq.  whose  ancestor  married  the  daughter  and  heir  of 
one  Leek,  or  rather  Leake,  about  the  time  of  Henry  the  seventh* 
who  was  owner  thereof.'**  The  manor  then  cume  to  the  Tho- 
fbtons,  and  h  still  their  property  j  and  Thomas  Thoroton, 
Esq.  a  descendant  of  the  worthy  and  learned  doctor,  has  now  his 
n-sidence  here. 

The  church,  which  is  dedicated  to  St.  Winifred,  is  a  neat 
edifice,  with  a  nave  and  two  side  aisles ;  the  lower  steeple  con- 
tuiti^  a  small  ring  of  three  betU^  and  the  curious  old  font* 
which  is  siili  in  high  preservation,  is  worthy  of  notice:  there  are 
several  iincicnt  monuments  of  the  Whalleys. 

Wmattoh,  which  lies  about  two  miles  east  from  Bingham, 
comprehends  in  its  parisli  the  chapelry  of  Astacton,  the  chapel 
of  which  small  village  or  hamlet  dedicated  to  the  patron  saiBl 
»if  the  parish  is  now  a  total  ruin,  but  has  been  lately  converted 
into  a  dwelling  house. 

The  church  of  Whation  is  dedicated  to  Su  John  of  Beverley, 
>tands  on  a  rising  gmuiid  on  the  north  side  of  the  village,  and 
consists  of  a  body,  two  aisles,  and  a  chancel^  with  a  tower  at 
the  angle  formed  by  the  north  aisle  and  chanceL  The  nave 
rests  on  three  pointed  arches  on  each  side,  with  octagon 
|>illars. 

Against  the  north-east  pillar  is  fixed  up  a  white  slab,  with  ibm 
figure  of  a  man  in  flowing  hair  and  gown,  and  a  pur^e  at  hb 
right  side,  his  band  on  a  cushion*  and  round  hiu),  on  a  ledge  in 
bUck  letter. 

•  Hart,  ColK  p.  Sd8. 


I 


JIOTTillGHAJtf^flXRS. 


319 


"  Uk  jttcet  Thoms5  Crantner  Armiger,  qui  obiit  Ticcfimo  sftpcioio  die 
ttienfiit  mail  a&no  dni  m^*  m'^*  oetiteitJBQ  priroo  cui  oie  ppciatur   Den. 


II  has  also  several  armorial  coaU,  and  was  raised  in  memory 
<»f  the  father  of  the  lamous  Archbishop  Crarimer,  born  in  14^9  at 
Aslacton ;  and  which  maaor  came  to  Lhe  tamily  by  ihe  mar- 
riage with  tiie  heiress  of  the  Aslactoiis^  passed  by  an  heiress  of 
Cranmer  to  Molyneax,and  is  now  the  property  of  the  Pierpoiat 
family. 

The  font  h  Jeserviag  of  notice ;  not  for  lis  anUqoHy  which  h 
but  recent^  by  a  date  of  1662  on  the  shaft,  but  from  its  orna- 
menu^  consisitng  of  a  rose*  lulip«  Oeor  de  lis.  £tc. 

The  monuments  are  various.  Two  arches  have  been  made 
la  the  north  \vall  of  the  north  aisle :  one  of  these  U  empty ^ 
under  the  other  is  a  priest  with  curled  hair*  and  his  head  rest- 
ing on  a  double  cushion;  in  the  middle  of  this  aisle,  across- 
legged  Knight  in  armour  lies  on  a  raised  tomb,  Sir  Richard 
Whatton  ;  and  an  altar  tomb  with  an  armed  knight  in  alabaster, 
one  of  the  family  of  Newraarch,  is  placed  at  the  east  end  of  the 
south  aisle,  now  converted  into  a  schoolhouse.  The  chancel  is 
quite  plain;  and,  being  fitted  up  with  modern  seats  and  desks^ 
has  lost  its  venerable  airi  but  the  style  of  the  church  plainly 
bespeaks  it  lo  be  of  the  lime  of  the  Edwards.  The  windowi* 
are  particularly  deserving  the  notice  of  the  Gothic  architect^ 
being  very  elegant  specimens  of  the  lancei  arch,  and  of  orna* 
mental  tracery  i  in  the  east  window  of  the  north  aisle,  in  parti- 
cular>  there  is  a  very  rich  specimen  of  the  quatr^oiL  Of  the 
state  of  4jlaaon,  as  cotemporary  with  Cranmer,  we  have  the 
following  account  from  Leland  :  "  And  coming  near  toward  Mile 
Brooke^  I  left  about  a  mile  on  the  left  hande  Aslacton  village 
in  Nottinghamshire,  where  Thomas  Cranmer,  Archbishop  of 
Cantorbyri,  was  born^  and  where  the  heire  of  the  Cranmers^ 
a  man  scajit  of  XL  luarkes  landes  by  the   yere  now  dwellith.'^ 

The  manor  bouse  and  grounds  are  now  the  property  of  Mr. 

Maniot. 


tfO 


iroTTnTGnAVsnTHE. 


Merriot.  A  modem  hrm  house  occupies  the  scUe  ;  and  tome 
years  ago  bad  ftome  curious  relics  of  the  C  ran  met  family.  Here 
also  Diay  be  traced  several  moats,  islands,  and  other  remains  of 
the  pleasure  ground&  At  a  nmall  distance  from  the  house  b 
a  raked  walk  of  three  or  four  feet,  and  more  than  one  hundred 
yards  long,  which  leads  to  Orston^  and  is  still  called  **  Cran* 
Bier's  WaiL'^  At  the  west  end«  on  crossing  a  moat,  the  visitor 
may  ascend  a  square  mount  of  considerable  elevation^  and 
from  thence  have  a  pretty  extensive  prospect. 

Of  the  ancient  chapef>  now  in  ruins^  part  of  the  walls  still 
remain;  these  are  visible  under  a  modern  built  house  of  brick 
atid  tile ;  and  the  chapel  itself  is  now  a  coramon  alehouse.* 

The  ARCHBisBe?  was  born  on  the  second  of  July  1489  ;  and, 
being  placed  at  an  early  age  under  a  private  tutor,  was  soon 
filled  for  the  completion  uf  his  studies  at  Jesus  College,  Cam- 
bridge. He-  graduated,  and  entered  into  priests^  orders,  became 
a  fellow  of  the  coHfge,  completed  his  degree  of  I>.  D*  and  was 
fioen  after  entrust^^d  by  Mr.  Cressy,  a  gentleman  of  large  foJ^^ 
tunc  residing  at  Wahham  abhey  in  Essex,  with  the  care  of  fal^H 
two  sons  I  but  the  plague  breaking  o^t  in  the  university*  Dr. 
Craumer  retired  with  his  pupils  to  their  father's  house. 

At  this  period  Henry  the  eighth  came  to  Waltham  abbey, 
during  the  arrangements  for  his  divorce,  whicfi,  how  ever,  went 
oo  loo  slowly  for  the  monarch's  impatience.  Two  of  hia  prin- 
cipal ecclesiastical  agents  lodged  in  Mr.  Cressy's  house,  and 
were  much  gratided  in  finding  a  man  of  Cranraer's  learning  and 
undaunted  spirit,  not  only  approving  the  measure  as  much  as  they 
did  themselves,  but  even  inclined  to  enter  on  it  more  boldly 
than  they  dared  to  do*  Wbco  asked  his  opinion  respecting  the 
propvjcty  of  opposing  the  pope's  mandates  and  the  intrigues  of 
li is  Agents,  Cranmer  at  once  recommended  that  the  suftV rings  of 
the  king's  conscience,  respecting  a  marriage  with  bis  brother'^* 
wife,  slitjuld  be  referred,  not  to  the  pope  and  his  dispensing 
power,  but  to  the  word  of  God  and  an  assembly  of  divines;  and 

also» 
•  Vide  tuT^hn,  Gcola,  M«g.  VoL  62,  P«rt  IL  991, 


VOTYlHOHAMSHIEl* 


fsi 


alsoi  that  this  should  lake  place  in  the  Engliih  oniverstties,  and 
not  ifi  the  ecctesiastical  courts  of  any  other  nation;  adding^ 
that  if  the  cause  was  once  determined  by  the  authority  of  scrfp* 
Hire,  the  pope  coald  iwit  possibly  have  power  to  overttarn  il,  not 
having  authority  to  dispense  with  the  word  of  God!*  When 
the  monarch  heard  of  this  opinion*  '*  Aye"  said  he,  "  tliis 
man  hath  the  sow  by  the  right  ear  -"  he  immediately  sent  f^r 
him,  and  not  only  employed  him  in  the  work  at  home,  but  in 
Writing  and  in  embassies  lo  the  pope,  and  the  diflTerent  Euro- 
pean princes,  umil  he  had  not  only  ihe  consent  of  the  English 
universities,  bat  also  of  all  the  foreign  powers  concerned,  or 
presuming  to  be  concerned,  in  this  bosiness. 

On  the  death  of  archbishop  Warham  Cranmer  wag  imme- 
diately appointed  to  the  metropolitan  see>  and  was  under  the 
new  order  of  things,  then  just  commencing,  considered  as  the 
ecclesiastical  head  of  the  church  in  England,  without  ihe  inter- 
ference of  the  pope's  legale  ;  and  was  al^o  entrusted  with  many 
civil  commissions  by  Henry,  whose  favour  lie  had  gained,  by 
not  only  pronouncing  the  sentence  of  divorce  against  Catharine^ 
but  also  uniting  him  to  his  then  favourite  Anna  Boleyn. 

When  Henry  asserted  his  supremacy  in  ecclesiaKiical  affairs , 
Cranmer  supported  him  against  the  pope's  claims;  he  also  aided 
much  in  the  dissolution  of  the  monastic  societies,  and  encou- 
raged the  cause  of  rational  religion,  by  causing  the  Bible  to  bif 
translated  into  English,  and  a  copy  of  it  to  he  placed  in  every 
church  in  the  kingdom.  This  part  of  the  Reformation  was 
much  expedited  by  the  discovery  of  printing,  which  had  then 
laken  place,  tboogh  not  many  years  before. f  A  copy  of  this 
work  was  presented  to  the  king,  and  is  now  preserved  in  the 
British  Museum. 

The  appropriation  of  the  revenues  of  the  convents,   for  the 

establishment 

■  Tht4,  however,  wai  n  power  which  the  Pope  tlien  claimed,  and  whkh  the 
Catholics  admitted  ;  nor  do  we  know  ihat  it  ii  even  now  denied. 

f  Printing  began  to  be  uacd  in  Esglaud  in  1453,  nlioQt  50  ytm  before 
Htnry'B  flccr»9ion* 


t22 


HOTTIKGIIAMSltmB. 


establishment  of  rrcescbools^  was  a  measure  of  his  recommen- 
dation  ;  but  this  took  place  only  in  a  few  instances^  as  the  pro- 
fuse monarch  found  a  pleasanter  mode  of  spending  these  large 
9Uiiis:  ytjt  though  thwarted  in  some  things^  Cranmer  still  used 
every  means  in  his  power  to  aid  the  cause  of  the  Reformation. 
By  this^  he  became  so  obnoxious  to  the  Catholic  hierarchy,  to 
ihe  pope  and  his  agents,  that  erery  means  were  taken  to  ex* 
cite  the  public  discontent  against  hira ;  the  power  of  Henry, 
however^  was  his  protection ;  and  it  is  said  that  Cranmer^  of  all 
that  monarch's  favourites,  was  the  only  one  for  whom  be  pre* 
served  a  sincere  respect  to  the  very  last. 

During  this  period,  the  faction  which  opposed  him  had 
so  far  lost  sight  of  propriety  as  to  bring  charges  against  him  in 
Parliament,  which  they  could  find  no  person  willing  to  under- 
take except  Sir  John  Gostwike,  Knt. ;  and  this  perfton  ventured 
lo  accuse  hiui  of  preaching  heresy  at  Sandwich  in  Kent,  When 
the  king  was  acquainted  with  this,  '•  How  comes  Gostwike,^* 
said  he,  "  who  dwells  in  Bedfordshire,  or  Buckinghamshire,  to 
hear  my  lord  of  Canterbury  preaching  in  Kent  ?  Go  !*'  added 
he  to  a  gentleman  of  the  privy  chamber,  '*  and  tell  him,  that  if 
he  does  not  go  to  the  archbishop,  and  reconcile  himself  to 
bim,  1  will  pluck  his  goslin's  feathers  so,  that  he  shall  never 
again  have  au  heart  to  slander  our  metropolitan,  of  any  other 
learned  ninii." 

On  the  death  of  Henry^  and  the  accession  of  the  youthful 
Edward,  he  performed  the  coronation  o(Iicc ;  and  was  soon  aftet 
appointed  with  other  bishops  to  compose  the  homilies  ;  the  act 
of  Parliament  .ilsu  for  the  Common  Prayer  took  place  through 
his  recommendation  and  intluence.  But  having  joined  the 
party  of  Lady  Jane  Grey,*  on  the  demise  of  the  young  monarch, 
the  ruling  powers  caused  hira  lo  be  committed  to  the  tower, 
i\nd  attainted  of  high  treason,  for  which,  however,  he  obtained 

a  pardon 

*  Thts  \at\y*i  proper  nam«  wts  Dudle^t  »>  ihm  wife  of  Lr^rd  ODildford 
Duilley;  it  i^  curiuai  thai  hUtorinm  »h««i}U,  notwithttsndtnfr  always  d«fl(ig- 
nate  ber  by  het  maiden  name. 


KOTTIMOBAMSHIKE* 


f» 


a  pardon  from  Mary.  Yet  he  was  immediately  after  conveyed 
to  Oxford,  and  condemned  for  herc.^^y,  for  denyijig  transubstan- 
tiation,  and  the  propitiatory  sacrifice  of  the  mass,  or  in  other 
words  a  repetition  of  the  sufferings  of  Chrift  in  an  ordinance 
which  Christ  himseif  told  us  was  only  a  tememhrancc  of  him. 
After  condemnation,  he  was  induced    to  sign  a  recantation ; 

,  but  having  nobly  dented  his  crrofi  and  withdrawn  that  confes- 
sion, he  was  condemned  to  the  stake,  at  which  be  sulFered  oi^  ^ 
the  21st  of  March  1550. 

To  this  he  was  brought  witHont  any  official  notice^  though 
he  had  reason  to  expect  it ;  and  when  tied  to  it  was  obliged  ta 
listen  to  all  the  charges  and  aspersions  of  Dr«  Cole :  but  Craiv 
mer  boldly  replied,  '*  1  believe  every  word  and  sentence 
taugbt  by  our  Saviour  Christ,  his  apostles,  and  the  prophets  of 
the  Old  and  New  Testament^  but  as  to  the  pope,  I  refuse  him 

^  as  Christ's  enemy,  or  Antichrist,  with  all  his  false  doctrine; s/"^ 
So  great  was  his  sorrow  for  his  recantation*  and  ^a  determined 
was  his  spirit  at  the  last  hour,  that  he  calmly  held  his  right 
hand  in  the  fLimes  till  it  dropt  oiY,  paying*  *'  this  hand  has 
offended  ;"  and  this  h«s  was  enabled  to  do^  as  his  exeeii- 
tioQer!i  had  taken  care  to  keep  up  a  slow  Hre^  in  order  that  be 

I  f^hould   suffer   the  utmost  pain  of  his  punishment,  as  a  proof 

^  of  their  regard  for  Christian  mcrcicM* 

It  has  been  stated,  that  after  his  whole  body  had  been  reduced 
to  ashes,  ^iiis  heart  was  found  entire,  and  untouched  by  the  Are, 
which  by  some  of  the  bystanders  was  considered  as  an  argu- 
ment in  favour  of  his  hearty  love  of  the  truth ;  whilst  others  looked 
upon  it  as  a  proof  of  the  heretical  obduracy  of  that  vital  part« 
which  would  not  yield  even  to  the  warm  argument  of  a  blaj&i ng 
Catholic  fire! 

Elton,  near  Whatton,  has  so  little  lo  be  noticed,  that  we 
only  mention  it  in  order  to  add  another  instnnce  to  the  many 
which  prove  bow  necessary  it  is,  that  precautions  sbould  al- 
ways 

«  We  do  not  wisti  to  estublisH  a  new  age  c»f  miracles ;  but  mcreVj  gire(l># 
passage  Ifoin  Bifhop  Godwin'i  worlc^  "  Be  Pra;tutibiit|  p*  J03/' 


$24 


TTOTTllfOnAlfSHIRir. 


way§  be  taken  with  respect  to  fire  arms ;  not  a  footish  fear 
vhich  will  often  produce  the  evH  it  wishes  to  avoi<V.  but  a  coo! 
camion  whfch  shall  point  out  the  neceiisary  guards  against  acci- 
dent, Mr.  Throsby  records  this  curious  circumstance^  which 
took  place  here  in  1784|  when  a  blacksmith  had  purchased  ^^M 
a  piece  of  iron  about  two  feet  long,  and  an  inch  and  a  lialf  ia  ^B 
diameter,  apparently  solid^  and  which  had  been  used  a^  a  pestle 
in  a  family  J  upwards  of  sixty  years*  The  workman  having 
aome  doubts,  however,  about  its  solidity,  put  it  into  his  fire, 
when  it  exploded  with  great  force;  and  a  musrjuet  ball  from 
within  it  grazed  his  side,  and  lodged  in  some  coals  behind 
bim*  This  led  to  further  examination  and  enquiry  when  it 
was  discovered  to  have  been  a  gun  barrel  dug  up  in  the  year 
1723,  but  so  completely  (i)led  with  earth  and  rust  that  nor 
cavity  had  ever,  till  then,  been  noticed, 

Granrv  lies  two  miles  to  the  south  of  Elton,  and  on  the 
I  borders  of  Lincolnshire,  but  is  remarkable  for  nothing  more 
than  giving  the  litle  of  marcjuis  to  the  Rutland  family,  whose 
ancestor  Sir  John  Manners,  purchased  it  from  L4>rd  Viscount 
Savage,  to  whom  it  had  been  granted  by  Henry  the  Bevenlli, 
after  the  attainder  of  Henry  Lord  Lovel,  of  whose  unhappy 
I  and  mysterious  fate  we  sltall  take  some  notice  under  llie  head 
of  Stuke  near  Newark.^ 

WivEnroN,  though  possessing  few  remains  of  its  ancient  gran- 

I  deurt  is  still  mtereMing  even  in  its  present  dilapidated  and  de* 

[  populated  state.     The   Hatl  %vas  built  by  the  Cha worth  family 

!  in  the  reign  of  flenry  the  sixih^  and  the  house  was  sutlTiciently 

» in  the  castelfaled  style  to  be  a  garrison  during  the  civil  wars;, 

I  since  that  period,  howerer,  it  has  fiu(T*ered  much  ;  and  even  iti 

Thoroton*s  lime,  little  was  left  but  the  ancient  gste  house,  of 

which  he  has  given  a  plate*     This  is  now  almost  in  ruins,  stand* 

[ingin  the  open  fields  near  Trthby  village,  a  solitary    memo- 

j  f ial  of  departed   gramleurj  of  ancient  hospitality,  and  of  all 

this  once  happy  delights  of  domestic  sociability. 

9  LhuaMt^ 

*  Hail.  Colt.  S6S. 


NOTTIKOMAMftfJI&B. 


255 


I 
I 

I 


I 


Langar^  was  the  seat  of  Earl  Howe^  and  is  now  in  the  pos* 
session  of  his  descendanbi  la  the  female  line*  *'  Here  was  an 
ancient  house  now  re-editied  by  Hen.  ho*  Scroope^  Lord  and 
owner  hereof,  whose  ancestor  married  one  of  the  daughters  af 
the  Lo*  Tiptoft;  and  the  Rhodes  were  Lords  hereofj  immedi- 
ately after  the  time  of  the  CoiiqueHt."* 

Thoroton  says^  '^  the  whole  lordships  of  Langar  and  Bar- 
niston  are  become  the  possession  of  Mr.  Howe,  who  has  made 
a  convenient  park  of  the  closes  which  he  halh  found  nigh  the 
house,  which  is  well  stocked  with  deer,  much  better  than  the 
towns  are  with  peoplei  when  so  considerable  parts  of  the  fields 
are  enclosed :  the  too  common  fate  of  good  land  in  this 
country/'  Without  combating  Dr.  Thoroton's  deductions  about 
incbsures,  it  is  enough  to  mention  that  part  of  the  old  houses 
which  he  describes^  still  remains  at  the  back  of  the  new  part  of 
theedihce.  It  stands  close  by  the  church,  and  has  a  communi- 
cation witb  it,  and  though  now  long  deserted  and  of  course  pos- 
•easing  little  of  modern  elegance  in  the  interior,  yet  the  antique 
portion  may  be  considered  a&  gti'ing  some  insight  into  ancient 
manners*  The  modern  front  has  a  very  handsome  portico  sind 
pediment,  with  six  lofty  Ionic  pillars  the  height  of  the  house, 
which  is  three  stories;  and  the  gardens,  though  much  negtectedv 
might  with  little  troubk  be  rendered  extremely  pleajiing. 

The  church  is  dedicated  to  St.  Andrew,  and  consists  of  a 
nave  and  two  side  aisles ;  it  has  also  a  tower  of  not  very  an- 
cient workmanship,  with  a  ring  of  ftve  bells.  It  contains  many 
monuments  of  the  Lords  Scroope,  &c»  particularly  one  very 
elegant  one^  ornamented  in  the  richest  sepulchral  styles  of 
Lord   Scroope  who  died  in  the  year  1609^  with  his  lady. 

The  parsonage  house  is  excellent  of  its  kind;  and  has  a 
Vol.  XII.  P  very 

•  In  the  introductory  part  of  lUc  county,  we  hiVc  not  noticed  Laugar  and 
Granhy  us  giving  noble  litJes;  but  tb<r  reason  of  tbb  is  evident,  ai  the  object 
there  wa*  to  ootico  ouly  tbow  which  give  the  tupfrUtr  title,  by  wUtcb  eich 
poiseMor  i*  knowti. 


1M9 


VOTTIVGSAMSiriKE. 


very  good  observatory  erected   in  1797   by  Mr.  Gregory  the 
rector^  who  was  very  partial  to  astronomical  pursuits. 

We  now  proceed  to  Newark  Hundred,   and  conftmence  wi4b 
tbe  town  of 

Newark, 

Of  which  old  honestj  but  Drunken  Bamahy  sings « 

'^  Thence  to  Ncwtrk.  flocnl  surfowodod. 

Where  I  hoping  mast,  were  drained  j 

Hsad  Co  hand  t  straightwii^s  shortd« 

To  a  cdUr  ricblj  ilored  ; 

Till  tuBpGctcd  for  a  pkklock^ 

Tho  beadle  led  mc  to  tbe  whip  stock/' 

Later  tourists,  however,  have  been  more  hospitably  treated^ 
and  of  cciurse  speak  better  of  the  accommodations. 

Arthur  Young  sayg,  it  "  h  a  very  pretty  and  well  built  town  ; 
remark  when  you  see  it,  particularly  the  steeple,  which,  for 
9ome  miles  aroundj  appears  very  light  and  beautiful :  there  is 
likewise  a  new  street  worth  viewing;  although  ihc  houses  are 
very  small,  yet  each  side  of  the  street  forms  but  one  front,  and 
is  in  a  very  pretty  neat  InsteJ*  Bibdin  also  in  his  musical  tour 
seem^i  though  a  vagrant  melodist,  to  have  been  on  better  terms 
with  the  parish  beadles  than  poor  Barnaby,  and  therefore  laya 
that  it  "  is  a  clean,  handsome,  improving  town,  and  seems  to 
look  more  like  the  land  of  the  living  than  any  place  in  the 
county.  The  market  place  is  very  handsome  and  spacious. 
It  is  full  of  bustle,  being  on  the  great  north  road;  and  it  boasts  a 
vicinity  full  of  spirit  and  importance."  With  respect  lo  the  an* 
iifuity  of  Newark,  Throsby,  as  well  as  some  other  aotiquaries* 
looks  for  "  Ad  Pontetn"  here ;  but  Mr.  Dickinson^  as  we 
shall  presently  have  occasion  to  shew  more  at  length,  endea- 
vours to  fix  that  station  at  Southwell.** 

Thai 


*  The  county  of  Nuttiugliam,  and  the  kingdom  at  large»  are  under  gi 
tfbtigatiouft  to  ^r.  Dickiiiaoa  for  his  antiquarian  researches  and  modern  dell< 
neatti^nt ;  and  wt  cannot  omit  a  fact  niticb  to  the  credit  of  the  candour  and 
hherali ty  of  that  gcuilumap,  that  he  haj  dedicated  hts  hookt  with  juit  dtscri- 
ttinatiou,  to  one  who  liad  been  hi<  political  oppoucnl  on  many  ocGationat 


leHi^^ 


VOTTlNGHAMSHtftE. 


nr 


That  Newark,  however,  was  a  Roman  ftation  in  now  beyond 
a  doubt.  Stukely*  in  his  Itinerary,  says  that  it  was  certainly 
raised  from  the  neighbouring  Roman  cities,  and  has  been 
walled  about  with  their  remains;  and  he  adds,  thai  the  northern 
gate  was  composed  of  stones  seemingly  of  a  Roman  cut ;  and 
not  improbably  the  Romans  themselves  had  a  town  hereabouts^ 
for  many  antiquities  are  found  about  it,  especially  by  the  Fosse 
side  which  runs  through  the  town.  Hor^ley  also  is  pretty 
much  of  the  same  opinion  ;  for  he  says,  in  his  observations  on  the 
sixth  iter  of  Antoninus,*  "The  station  AdPontera,  is  only  seven 
itinerary  miles  from  Margidunnm*  which  distance  is  not  quite 
sufficient  to  bring  us  from  Bridgeford  quite  up  to  Newark— this 
therefore  obliges  us  to  look  for  Ad  Poutcm,  two  or  three  miles 
from  the  middle  of  Newark.  I  make  no  doubt  but  that  this 
large  town  has  arisen  out  of  the  ruins  of  Ad  Pontem  on  one  side, 
and  Crocolana  on  the  other.  The  name  "  Newark/*  which  irn* 
plies  aome  prior  building  of  greater  antiquity,  may  perhaps 
refer  to  those  Roman  stations  on  each  side  of  it/* 

Mr.  Dickinson's  recent  observations  are  even  more  to  the  point. 
He  says^  that  it  requires  little  sagacity  to  discover  that  New -work, 
(the  obvious  signification  of  its  present  name,  and  that  by  which 
it  has  been  distinguished  in  history,  &c.  ever  since  the  reign  of 
Edward  the  Confessor,)  is  a  name  of  reference,  of  comparison, 
and  of  discrimination.  If  what  was  then  erected  was  called 
the  New- work,  it  is  an  incontrovertible  admission  that  there  wat 
something  older,  on  which  the  modern  establishment  was  en- 
grafted, but  3tilL  that  is  enveloped  in  the  obscurity  of  untiquity 
He  then  notices,  thnt  Stukely  with  great  acumen  shews  the 
probability,  and  almost  certainty,  that  this  was  the  Sidnaceaster 
of  old,  once  a  bishopric  in  the  early  days  of  Christianity,  hav* 
tng  had  a  succession  of  nine  bishops.  Though  these  walls  and 
gates  are  now  down,  yet  tliey  have  been  shewn  by  Stukely  and 
others  to  have  been  formed  of  Roman  materials;  and  innu- 
merable quantities  of  Roman  coins,  and  other  antiquities,  have 

P  2  been 

•  Honlrj'f  BriCaDt  Rom.  p.  4J9. 


2tfl 


KOTTfirOBAnSIirEt. 


been  found  here.  Stokely  atso  thinks  that  the  Roman  itQfbe 
wasEitarona;  and  he  addi*  that  Mr,  Baxter  has  placed  it  al» 
most  beyond  contradiction,  that  the  Roman  name  of  the  Trent 
was  Tatus,  or  AbuM  as  sortie  hare  thought^  and  which  we  hare 
allijded  to  in  the  early  part  of  this  county.  That  branch  new 
called  the  Trent^  and  passing  under  the  w^Wa  of  the  castle^ 
Stukely  also  calk  the  rirer  DaTon  or  Ta?on«  a.<iserling  that  tt 
is  not  the  Trent,  bat  the  united  streams  of  the  Da? on  and  SDtle* 
From  these  circumstances,  Sttikeley  draws  his  conclusion  of 
Sidnaceasttr  being  the  modern  Newark;  and  he  adds,  that  the 
Roman  town  being  destroyed  by  the  Scots  and  Picls  after  the 
departure  of  that  people,  it  was  refounded  by  the  Saxons,  who 
to  the  name  of  the  river  Suite  on  wiiich  it  stands  added  the  ter* 
mination  "  Ceaster^'  to  markitsliaving  been  a  Roman  italion, 
llnis  forming  Sidnaceasier.  After  this,  Mr.  Dickinson  con* 
oatves  it  highly  probable  that  the  Danes  may  have  destroyed 
the  Saxon  refounded  city,  and  hence  iVht^-work  was  justly  ap- 
plied to  it  in  the  reign  of  Edward  the  confessor*  Camden,  in* 
deed,  carries  its  antiquity  no  higher  than  the  time  of  Alexander* 
bishop  of  Lincoln,  who  built  the  present  castle;  but  in  this 
he  confines  himself  solely  to  the  building  as  it  then  stood. 

To  detail  the  history  of  Newark  from  its  re- edification  would 
be  little  more  than  a  recapitulation  of  great  part  of  the  his- 
tory of  Englaml;  a  few  facts,  howevert  desenre  partlcula? 
notice* 

This  place  was  the  scene  of  king  John's  death;  those  who 
wish  to  enquire  particularly  into  the  fact  of  his  being  poisoned 
or  nat,  may  consult  the  fuurth  volume  i>(  the  Archatoiogia,  p.  29, 
where  they  will  End  a  long  letter  of  Mr.  Pegge*s  upon  that  sab- 
jecu 

James  the  first  arrired  at  Newark,  on  his  way  to  London,  on 
the  2l8tof  April  ltK>2,  on  which  occasion  he  was  received  by 
the  corporation,  and  addressed  by  the  alderman^  (there  being 
then  no  mayor,)  Mr.  John  Twentyman,  in  a  Jong  Latin  speech, 
witit  which  his  Miijetity  was  so  well  pleased^   that  he  conferred 

upoa 


fipon  him  the  off ce  of  purr^yor  of  wax  la  ihc  loysil  household, 
in  ihe  counties  of  Notu,  York,  LiiKoln^  and  Derby.  WUeii 
about  to  depart,  James  ordered  him  to  repeat  the  speech,  llten 
asked  hh  name ;  and  on  being  told,  replied  sharply,  *'  then  by 
my  saul  man  ihou  art  a  tray  tor;  the  Tu'eutymans  pulled  down 
Redkirk  in  Scotland/^  This,  however^  must  have  been  in  jetitt 
as  he  coniinued  hi|  &Your  to  hm,  and  was  oflea  accompanied 
by  him  in  hts  hunting  excursions  m\  ihe  forest. 

In  the  unhappy  reign  of  Charles  the  first,  Clarendon  says 
that  Newark  became  a  very  necetMtary  garrison  in  the  county  of 
Nottingham  ;  and  had  not  only  subjected  that  little  comity^ 
the  town  of  Nottingham  only  excepted^  which  was  upon  ihf 
manner  confined  within  its  own  wallsj  but  had  a  greftt  part  of 
the  county  of  Lincoln  under  contribution,* 

ThorotQu  speaking  of  those  times^  of  which  we  may  almost 

If  onsider  him  as  an  eye  witness,  saya  that  Newark  was  one  of  the 

aost  considerable  garrimns  the  king  had,  ia  which  the  loyalty 

id  courage  of  the  townsmen  were   ever  remarkable,  and  suf- 

[^ciently   manifested  in  all  their   three   sieges f  at  the  first   of 

iwbich  Sir  John  Henderson,  %he  prudent  governor^  caused  all 

[JTorthgate  and  the  Spiral  (an  hospital  of  St.  Leonard  of  Slokf) 

|o  be  burned,  '^yet  the   remains  ftirmed  a  reccpiacle  fui   Ihe 

lienemy  at  the  second  siege,  where  Prince  Rupert  took  a  goodly 

train  of  artillery  which  I  &aw,t  together  with  their  foot  arms, 

^  when   he    so  fortunately    relieved    the   tovni  then   under   the 

^ government  of  Sir  Hichard,  now  Lord  Byron:  but  before  the 

ihird^  there  was  not  one  stone  left  unt brown  down,  and  in  oc 

P  3  near 

^  Id  the  tacond  vol.  of  ClBrendon,  page  25^  are  some  stories  of  tlie  unmh 
Hngncssor  people  in  litis  couiUj  to  k*nd  money  to  the  king  j  but  wln>»  m  ke 
ob&erves,  miglithjive  fiaalljF  «aved  hoih  their  m<Micy  And  c»tiit(?f.  One  tii  pur- 
ticular,  he  mentloaB,  who  was  aiked  for  a  loin  of  hOOL  «(td  prstriited  \mL 
ftwearing  he  had  never  teen  f»0€l.  of  his  own  money  Mt  one  lime  in  his  life ; 
"yel  a  few  weeks  after  the  ParliamcuUnwi  army  borrow^  50001.  which  tliey 
found  bid  in  hii  bedchamber* 

^    f  Claraodon  3my%  4000  priioD^n^  cleTea  bia^t  cumoni  two  mortar  pieflt4» 
And  liTA  barrcli  of  puwd«r. 


iSd  VOtTIVaHAVSHlRS; 

near  the  place  a  strong  fortification  raised  in  Sir  Richard  Wil- 
lis's  time,  (as  I  remember)  and  called  the  king's  sconce,  which, 
by  his  Majesty's  special  command  then  in  the  Scots  quarters 
on  the  north  side  of  the  rirer  Trent,  was  about  the  sixth  of  Bfay 
1646,  with  the  town  and  castle  and  the  rest  of  the  fortresses,  con- 
eluded  by  commissions  of  the  Right  Honourable  John  Lord 
Bellasis  the  last  go? emor,  to  be  surrendered  the  Saturday  fol* 
lowing,  though  it  is  said,  that  Mr.  Smith,  the  Taliant  mayor, 
upon  his  lordship's  communicating  to  him  the  king's  order, 
urged  the  gofemor  with  tears,  to  trust  God  and  sally,  rather 
than  think  of  yielding  the  town,  which  indeed  at  that  time  suf- 
fered more  by  the  plague  within  than  the  enemy  without" 

The  Beacon  Hill  was  the  scene  of  this  action  between  Prince 
Rupert,  and  the  Parliamentarian  army  under  Sir  John  Mel- 
drum;  and  a  MSS.  recorded  by  Mr.  Dickinson,  says  ««the 
t>rince  advanced  up  the  hill,  at  the  descent  whereof  he  espies 
four  bodies  of  horse  standing  in  readiness  to  recei?e  him;  and 
charging  and  it^uting  these  horse,  drore  them  quite  put  of  the 
field  beyond  their  own  work,  foot  and  cannon,  some  into  the 
island,  and  others  to  Muskham  bridge,  pursuing  them  with  that 
expedition,  that  he  besieged  them  in  their  own  intrenchment 
at  the  Spittle  with  his  horse,  before  his  foot  came  within  four 
pailcs." 

During  the  second  siege  in  16<14,  an  extraordinary  circum- 
stance is  related  to  have  taken  place  of  one  Clay,  a  trades- 
man of  some  eminence  residing  in  the  market  square,  who,  as 
is  recorded  on  his  monument  in  the  church,  is  said  to  have 
dreamed  three  successive  times  in  one  night,  that  his  house  was 
in^flames.  At  the  conclusion  of  the  last  dream  he  got  up  much 
confused,  and  caused  his  whole  family  to  leave  the  house ;  very 
soon  after  which,  a  bombshell  from  Beacon  hill  fell  on  his  habi- 
tation, and,  passing  through  every  floor,  was  set  on  fire. 

Much  gallantry  was  displayed  during  the  third  siege  ;  and  it 
has  been  particularly  recorded,  that  on  the  first  of  January 
1645,  the  Newarkersmadea  most  determined  sally  upon  Poyntz's 

quarters 


irOTTIIIOHAM9HTR«. 


fai 


If narters  at  Stoke«  and  killed  and  took  above  SCO  of  his  men; 
but  the  most  effectual  atrack  was  on  the  lirst  of  April  in  the 
£ame  year,  when  they  killed  and  drowned  several  hundred  of 
the  t;nemy*s  choice  troops,  and  took  so  many  prisoners,  that 
their  nunibers  caused  great  sickness  in  the  town.  It  has  been 
asserted,  that  Newark  might  have  sustained  the  siege  many 
months  longer ;  but^  as  has  been  before  noticed,  it  was  sur- 
rendered to  the  Scots  army,  by  the  king's  order,  on  the  19th 
of  May  1645-6.  Mention  about  this  lime  is  made  of  a  memora- 
ble gentleman  volunteer,  Mr,  Gawen  Rutherford^  who  well  de* 
serves  to  be  held  m  everlasting  remembrance  for  his  loyalty; 
"  for  having  twenty-nine  children  by  one  wife,  he  irooptd  under 
his  twenty ^evemh  child,  who  was  a  commander  for  hi^  Majesty 
at  Newark**' 

Of  the  state  of  Newark  at  the  close  of  the  last  siege,  we  may 
form  a  good  idea  from  the  MSS,  already  noticed  as  preserved 
by  Mr.  Dickenson,  "  the  ladies  and  gentlemen  did  much  de- 
sire the  surrender  to  be  speeded  as  much  as  could  be,  longing 
for  their  enlargement,  which  occasioned  the  surrender  a  day 
sooner  than  by  the  articles  was  agreed.  And  truly  it  is  become 
a  miserable,  slinking,  infected  town.  I  pi  ay  God,  they  do  not 
infect  the  counties  and  towns  adjacent— they  carried  not  much 
out  of  the  town,  for  they  had  hot  very  few  carriages/' 

After  the  surrender,  the  country  people  were  ordered  to  come 
with  pick  axes,  shovels,  &c.  to  demolish  all  the  work^  and 
circumvallation ;  but  one  of  the  sconces  has  been  left  entire, 
and  gives  a  good  idea  of  the  state  of  warfare  at  that  time.  It  is 
extremely  small,  and  consists  of  five  bastions,  being  a  pentagon, 
but  these  are  so  near  to  each  other,  that  the  curtines  are 
scarcely  half  pistol  shot  in  length,  contrary  to  the  usual  scale 
which  always  allows  two  rausquet  shot  between  the  retiring 
(lanks  of  two  bastions  :  and,  being  fortified  on  the  fieldlace  as 
well  as  towards  the  town,  shews  that  the  assailants  were  not 
without  their  apprehensions  that  some  attempt  to  raise  the  siege 
might  cause  an  attack  upon  their  own  works, 

P  4  Sine 


Since  the  HeralutioD«  little  remains  to  be  noticed,  exce|>tt 
progre^ife  improvement  in  trade^  manufactures^  andopD]eaoe; 
the  leading  poiotR  of  wbicb  will  be  detailed  under  their  r^spec> 
live  heads  in  the  description  of  the  place* 

The  whole  p:»rish  of  Ne^i  ark  contains  about  80Q  acres.  Some 
changes  with  res|»eci  to  its   boundaries,  however,  must  hare 
taken  place:  for  Mr.  Dickenson  fells  us,  that  anciently  the 
Trent  pas&ed  near  to  the  town  about  350  yards  distant  from  the 
castle,  where  the  bed  of  the  old  river  is  very  apparent,  and  is 
to  this  day  called  the  **  Old  TrenL'*    Where  the  main  stream 
now  runs  by  Kelham^  there  was  a  small  brook  which  not  being 
sufficient  for  the  various  purposes  of  the  Sutton  family,  resident 
there,  a  cut  was  made  from  the  Trent  to  the  brook  which  gave 
ra  turn  to  the  whole  current,  probably  aided  by  the  obstruction 
rhich  the  mills  at  Newark   must  be  supposed  to  occasion:  it 
there  forced  its  way  and  formed  that  channel  which  is  now 
seen*     An  island  has  thus  been  formed,  which  is  remarkably 
fine  feeding  land  for  cattle;  there  is  aljK>  under  the  upper  stra- 
tum of  gravel  a  bed  of  clay  extremely  useful  for  the  making  of 
bricks. 

It  is  a  curious  fact,  that  although  the  number  of  inhabitants* 
and  consequently  the  number  of  dwellings,  are  increased  in  a 
great  proportion,  even  within  the  last  two  centuries,  yet  the 
ichnography  of  the  town,  according  to  Mr.  Dickinson,  appears 
to  have  undergone  no  alteration.  Northgate^  indeed,  whick 
now  forms  a  part  of  the  town,  appears  in  former  times  to  have 
been  only  a  hamlet ;  for  it  is  in  many  places  called  "  Norihgat 
juxta  Newark." 

Th*!  Sirceu  of  Newark  are  now  kept  in  a  very  respectable  con«| 
dition:  yet,  according  to  the  before  mentioned  authority^  whici 
we  shall  often  have  occasion  to  quute,  this  improvement  is  bill 
of  late  dale,  although  an  act  of  Parliament  for  paving  them  was 
passed  in  the  27th  of  Queen  Elizabeth.  It  was  nut,  howeveti 
until  the  middle  of  James's  reign,  that  even  the  paving  of  thi 
market  place  was  begun,  and  that  only  a  causeway  six  fe* 

9  broai 


4 


I 


I 


irOTTlNGBAfttSlUEB* 


sas 


broad  from  the  weat  corner  of  the  market  place  to  the  south 
porch  of  tlie  church.  At  that  tiwe  there  was  a  cross  in  the 
ceotre  of  the  market  square,  on  which  was  cut  the  name  of  the 
undertaker  of  the  work,  and  the  date  (H,  W.  1619)  forHeory 
Webster. 

TheQ\srLE2,ndilB  precinct,  though  within  the  borough  of 
Newark,  are  in  the  parish  of  Stoke.     It  was  built,  or  re-edified^ 
in  tlie  reign  of  Stephen,  by  Alexander,  bishop  of  Lincotn,  and 
its  o/^f  name  of  A>u;-work  still  preserved**  Henry  of  Huntingdon^ 
in  speaking  of  this,   acknowledges  thai  this  kind  of  military 
erections  were  even  at  that  time  deemed  rather  improper  for  an 
ccclesiaatlc  to  engage  in;  the  pious  bishop^  therefore,  built  two 
monasteries  as  an  expiation.     But  though  he  might  flatter  him- 
•elf  with  thereby  avoiding  the  pains  and  penalties  of  purgatory. 
It  appears  that  Stephen  was  not  so  easily  satisfied,  but  having 
seized   both  the  bishop  and  his  uncle,  kept  them  in  durance 
until  they  had  surrendered  to  him  all   their  fortresses.    The 
governor  of  the  castle  refuged  to  deliver  it  to  ihe  king's  oiBcers, 
without  an  order  from  the  bishop  iu  person^  this,  however,  he 
waved,  when  be  received  notice  from  the  bishop,  that  the  king 
had  made  a  vow  that  he  should  have  neither  meat  nor  drink 
until  it  was  given  up.     In  the  days  of  iuhu,  and  in   the   baro- 
nial wars,  it  several  limes  changed  hands*  Whilst  a  royal  garri* 
•on,  the  troops  repeatedly  sallied  out,  wasting  the  lands  of  the 
neighbouringrebetliousbarons;but  the  Dauphin  of  France,  whom 
they  had  called  in,  in  order  to  put  a  stop  to  the  depredations^ 
Lordered  Gilbert  de  Gaunt,  whom  he  had  lately  created  Earl  of 
rXincolnj  to  proceed  with  a  considerable  force,  either  to   re- 
duce it,  or  to  repel  the  soldiers  of  the  garrison.     He,  tiowever, 
having  got  intelligence  of  the  king^s  approach  with  a  powerful 
Tarmy,  retreated   to  London:  but  John,  having  in  his  march 
over  the  washa  lost  a  part  of  his  army  together  with  his  car- 
riages and  military  chest,  who  wt  ro  all  surprized  and  over- 
whelmed by  a  rapid  flood  tide,  he  retired  t»  this  castle ;  and, 

being 
•  Vide  Gfo»c'»  Anti<iuitic*. 


M% 


HOTTlKGHAMSniKS* 


being  extremely  sick  and    in  violent  angujsK  of  mint],  here 
ended  his  unfortunate  reign  in   1316,   the   19th  of  October, 
^  6(0 we  adds,  that  immediately  on  his  decease,  his  attendants#| 
afier  taking  all  that  wae  about  hiirij  fled;  not  leaving  so  mach 
of  any  thing,   worth  the  carriage,   as  would  cover   hisdea4| 
carcase^ 

The  governor,  Robert  de  Gangi,  seems  now  to  have  given  it 
up  to  the  barons,  for  Henry  the  third,  on  bis  accession,  found  it  m  i 
their  hands:  but  he  having  directed  it  to  be  restored  to  the  bishD{ft  J 
of  Lincoln^  De  Gangi  refused  at  first  on  pretence  of  money  du4|i 
to  him ;  he  was  by  force  at  length  compelled  to  be  content] 
with  ihe  payment  of  100/*  In  15'30,  Cardinal  Wokey  lodged  [ 
here  with  a  great  retinue,  in  his  way  to  Southwell,  where  ho  ' 
was  acciislomed  to  spend  part  of  the  summer.  The  remainder  1 
of  its  history  may  be  considered  as  connected  with  that  of  the 
town,  already  recorded. 

Though  now  in  ruins^  it  still  presents  an  august  appearance^  i 
wliich  would  be  even  much  more  so,  were  it  not  that  its  re* 
mains  are  applied  to  the  purposej^of  coal  wharfs,  stables  &c« 
The  north  front  over  looking  the  river*  is  the  most  perfects  j 
having  a  large  square  tower  at  the  north  east  anglf;^  and  another 
in  the  centre  of  the  elevation.     Between  these  great  features^ 
in  the  principal  story,  and  among  some  large  magnificent  win* 
dows,  is  an  excellent  projecting  window,   forming  a  perfect  1 
ipecimen  of  those  called  baj/t,  or  bower  a  ,  in  ancient  times. 

The  general  outline  of  the  plan  of  the  castle  is  square  ;  itsdi* 
mensions  are  very  great;  and  the  nunibcr  of  stories,  by  the  ap* 
pearance  of  the  north  frontj  seems  at  least  to  have  been  five* 
Within  the  exterior  walls^  nothing  remains;  aud  the  plot  has 
long  been  used  as  a  bowling  green.  The  vestiges  of  the  great 
hallt  shew  evidently  that  it  was  built  in  later  times^  from  the 
manner  in  which  the  roof  appears  lo  have  been  inserted  into  the 
walK;  and  in  this  hall,  the  before  menlloned  window  seems  to 

have 


•  Vide  PtifBUifs  of  Architectural  Iniiovutioiis* 
t  /Irchtfologin,  Vol.  VI.  321. 


irOTTIKOHAMSHtEC* 


25S 


have  been  hangiag  over  the  river,  and  even  of  later  coQstruc* 
I  iion,  as  it  could  not  have  been  placed  ihere>  unul  all  the  an- 
Icieixt  modes  of  defence  had  become  out  of  use. 

Under  this  hall,  is  a  most  curious  arched  vault  or  crypt,  sup* 
ported  by  a  row  of  pillars  in  the  middlej  and  having  loops  and 
embrasures  towards  the  river  in  which  were  planted  cannon  in 
the  civil  wars.  At  the  end  of  this  vault,  there  are  some  remains 
of  the  entrance  of  a  subterraneous  passage,  said  to  have  gone  m 
great  wa%'  under  ground.  There  are  also  Home  vestiges  of  a  stair- 
case from  the  vault  up  to  the  halL  Exclusive,  however,  of  ibis 
hall  and  vault,  what  remains  of  the  editice  seems  most  evidently 
to  continue  precisely  as  it  was  in  the  days  of  king  Stephen;  and 
exhibits  a  curiou.^  specimen  uf  the  odd  mixture  of  old  Norman 
architecture,  and  of  these  which  bishop  Gundulpb  lirst  intro- 
duced at  Rochester  castle. 

The  Bridge,  which  crosses  the  river  close  by  the  castle,  was 
originally  of  wood,  but  pulled  down  in  1775  being  then  qalle 
ruinous;  when  Henry  Duke  of  Newcastle  caused  one  to  bft 
erected  of  brick,  fact-d  with  stone.  A  better  idea  of  its  appear-, 
ance  may  be  formed  from  the  accompanying  plate  than  from 
ny  description. 

The  Church  has  long  been  considered  as  the  first  parish 
I  church  in  the  kingdom.     It  is  of  the  age  of  Henry  the  sixth,  and 
rThoroton  says  *'  yet  1  suppose  it  better  than  all  the  ten  men- 
tioned in  Domesday  book,  wliich  I  guess  were  not  all  in  thit 
town,  though  in  the  Soc.'*     It  is  indeed  a  noble  edifice,  its  ex-* 
terior  most  superb ;  mullions  and    tracery  of  excellent  designs 
fill  the  windows;  in  difterent  parts  of  the  building  are  niches 
with  statues,   and   other  decorations;  and  there  is  perhaps  no 
ecclesiastical  edifice  which   contains  such   a  number  of  ^hort 
ludicrous  busts,  forming  spout  heads,  &c.  except   Magdalen 
college  in  Oxford.    It  is  much  to  be  lamented,  indeed^  that  the 
[buildings  which   surround  it    take    olF  mnch  from  the  elFect 
which  would  otherwise  be  produced  by  a  clear  view  of  the  edi^ 
fice.     The  other  church  having  been  destroyed  during  the  civil 

wart. 


SeTTIKGllAUSHIEB. 


fvmrf«  lliis  seems  lo  have  had  the  undivided  atteiiUao  of  succ^ed- 
hig  generations  for  iu  preaervaitoa  and  iniproYemenL  The 
lower  is  light  and  handsome,  possesRes  much  symmetry^  and 
htaelyj  and  has  a  peal  of  eight  bells  y  it  is  much  ornamented 
with  arch  vrork  and  imagery,  and  supports  a  lofky  stone  spire 
md^raed  with  the  tweke  apostles  in  niches,  and  which  makes 
a  f  ery  handsome  show  In  approaching  the  town  in  all  direc*^ 
lions. 

The  inside  of  the  church  has  moch  of  a  cathedral  appearance ; 
butthenate  is  narmw  and  gloomy.  The  pillars  are  light  and 
beautiful ;  the  choir  is  inclosed  by  a  rich  screen  of  wooden 
carved  work,  and  has  a  spacious  east  aisle  behind  it.  The  aisles 
are  lofty*  and  the  pavement  is  covered  with  sepulchral  memo* 
rials;  besides  which  the  numerous  monuments  vind  brasses  are 
in  good  preservation.  The  new  galleries  too  add  much  both  to 
the  beauty  and  convenience  of  the  building. 

The  windows  have  formerly  been  filled  with  painted  glass, 
come  of  which  are  stilt  in  good  preservation^ representing  the  va* 
rious  events  of  our  Saviour's  life;  the  history  of  the  New  Testa* 
ment  was  formerly  in  the  windows  of  the  north  aisle,  and  in  the 
east  window  the  history  of  Joseph.  Besides  these,  here  have 
been  many  armorial  bearings  of  Deyncourt,  Cromwell^  Tate* 
shall,  Chaworth,  Cakopt,  Foljambe,  Leek,  Barry*  &c. 

Most  of  the  iiuporLint  monumental  inscriptions  may  be  found 
in  Thorolon;  we  shall,  however,  briefly  notice  a  curious  brass 
ef  an  ecclesiastic,  mentioned  by  Cough  in  his  Sepulchral  Mo- 
nurnent&  It  is  on  a  large  slab,  at  the  entrance  of  the  soutli 
traniicpi,*  and  contains  the  figure  under  n  rich  canopy  of  three 
arches  with  double  rows  of  itainis  round   it.     Over  the  saint^^ 

i  angel  sided  by  two  naked  hgures;  under  the  two  uppermost 

aints  kneel  figures  with  labeU.     Angds  at  the  side  of  hts  head 

hold  censers  or  lUuL     He  is  in  curled  flowing  hair,  a  long  coat 

with  pocket  holes  in  front,  and  over  it  a  kind   of  mantle  linetl 

with  something  like  minever,  his  sleeves  are  buttoned  to  tht 

wristbandst 
*  Strpu  Icbral  MoEtQisentt,  Vul,  L  p«  185« 


VOTTIXGaAMSniltE. 


asf 


wristbands,  and  fioin  his  conjoined  hands  falls  a  scroll  inscribtfd 
*'  Miserere  mei, dotDine  Dtus  meus/'  He  has  pointed  sboes»  ot 
balf  boot9^  with  a  buckle  or  opening  in  the  rnstep.  Between 
his  feet  h  represented  a  lion  hunting.  The  whole  ligure  is 
much  worn  by  trampling;  but  the  tradition  of  the  place  is,  tliat 
ikjs  is  the  grave  of  Alan  F/cmj/ztg,  the  founder  of  the  churchy  and 
of  coarse  the  oldest  one  in  it. 

The  communion  plate  is  all  of  massy  siWer,  the  gifls  and  IMS'* 
iguests  of  various  individnaU;  yet  it  is  surprising,  that  when  a 
most  daring  atiempt  was  made  about  seventy  years  ago  to  rob 
[the  chufch,  the  thieves  did  not  touch  the  plate«  but  seemed  ifi" 
tent  only  on  securing  the  money  belonging  to  the  corporationt 
which  they  supposed  to  be  kept  here  in  an  iron  cbei^t. 

Of  other  Religious  Foundations  here  was  an  Jiospiial,  de- 
dicated to  St,  Leonard,  founded  by  Alexander,  bishop  of  Lin* 
coin,*  in  the  latter  end  of  the  reign  of  Henry  the  fir&t^  or  be- 
ginning of  that  of  Stephen,  and  confirmed  by  his  successor 
Philip.  Perhaps^  this  h  the  one  said  to  have  consisted  of  ft 
master,  one  chaplain,  and  three  poor  persons,  with  revenue! 
amounting  to  18/. 

Here  were  also  a  bouse  ot  Awtm/nan,  mnd  another  ofOifstr^ 
\9itntfriarg;  the  friary  seal  was  discovered  some  years  ago,  anil 
iits  facsimile  (a  bust  of  the  Madona  and  child)  may  be  seen  in 
iihe  Gentleman's  Magazine,  Vol,  76,  page  9 IS. 

An  ancient  hospital  for  sick  persons,  belonging  to  the 
knight's  templars,  was  founded  here  before  1185:  and  at  the 
farther  end  of  the  Northgate  street  was  a  great  house  called  tbe 
Spittle,  burnt  down,  as  already  mentioned,  in  the  civil  wars.f 

Here  also  were  formerly  a  great  house  called  the  CAauniry 
iFreeschool,  and  a  Song  School  at  tbe  north  west  corner  of  the 
I  church -yard  for  an  organist  and  six  choristers. 

The  present  GRA>iMAti  School  was  f^sunded  by  Dr.  Thomas 
LMagnus  in  1529;  as  appears  by  an  inscription  over  the  door. 

The 

•  Tanner's  MoTtastlcon. 
t  Soa«  liAve  considered  tlili  at  th«  HoipriEil  of  St.  L«oa«T(i. 


Si  VOTTtKOQAUSlltltB. 

The  MwKET  Place  it  a  hamlsome  square;  but  traditionalljr 

I  lEiid  io  he  much  smaller  than  it  once  was.     It  is  related  that  ill 

the  civil  wars  no  less  than  ten  thousand  men  hate  been  drawn 

up  in  it.   All  this^  however,  must  feem  doubtful  to  any  one  wha 

will  examine  the  antiquity  of  the   buildings  which  surround  it# 

the  scite  of  the  church  and  townhall^  of  the  inn,  &c.  when  he 

will  scarcely  find  room  for  its  ever  having  been  more  extensive 

[than  at  present.    Some,  indeed*   consider  the   doobJe  row  of 

I  buildings  between  the  south  side  of  the  church  and  the  market 

I  place,  as  an  encroachment,  and  Mr.  Dickinson  is  of  the  same 

hepinion  ;  yet  let  the  houses  on  that  side  next  the  Church  be  ex* 

nined^  and   it  will  perhaps  appear  that  they  are   of  an  older 

lAfktc  than  the  middle  of  the  seventeenth  century. 

The  market  on  Wednesday  ts  well  supplied  with  butcher's 
[meat J  fishi  poultry,  and  vegetables,  &c. 

The  TmvNHALL  ts  a  neat  and  even  elegant  building  of  stone« 

[erected  in  1805  by  the  corporation  at  an  expense  of  17000/. 

f  paid  out  of  the  funds  of  the  tt^stamentary  estates  tell  for  the  ad-* 

vantage  of  the  town.     It  stands  in  the  market  place,  hasanar* 

rowj  t>ut  light  and  airy  front,  and  possesses  considerable  depth. 

[•The  basement  h  rustic;  four  handsome  piHars  support  a  pedi* 

Blent  ornamented  with  the  corporation  arms.      On   the  top  is  a 

Statue  of  Justice^  and  the  ballustradcs  give  it  a  handsome  6nish* 

It  is  three  stories  high,  and  has  seven  windows  in  front.     Here 

are  held  the  concerts  and  assemblies,  and  also  all  the  corporate 

meetings,  &c. 

'   The  Fairs  are  six  in  the  year ;  at  which  a  considerable  traf- 
fic is  carried  on  in  rattle  of  a!l  kinds.      The  dates  are,  Kirst  on 
Friday  before  Careing   Sunday,   or  Sunday  before  Easter;  se- 
cond May  14ili,  or  day  after,  if  Sunday  ;  third  Whitsun  Toes* 
r  day  ;  fourth  Liinunas,    or  Maudlin  fair,  on  August  the  second, 
[or  if  on  Sunday  ihe  day  after;  fifth  All  Saints  fair,  1st  of  No- 
iTeroher  ;  sixth  St,  Andrew's,  on  the  Monday  before  December 
[the  llth. 

The  Editor  of  these  sheeli',  when  at  Newark,  was  a  3qy  ajicr 

the 


the  fair;  but  Mr,  Dickmson^  he  finds,  complains  that  great  an- 
Doyance  is  given  to  travellers  and  lo  the  inhabitants  themselvef, 
in  consequence  of  the  mart  for  horses  being  held  on  the  great 
London  road  at  the  southern  extremity  of  the  town  ;  and  thai 
for  cattle  and  shetsp,  on  the  spacious  area  which  composes  the 
entrance  from  the  elegant  bridge  northward  of  it ;  whilst  those 
filthiest  of  all  animals,  swine,  are  posted  on  the  causeways  near 
ihe  fronts  of  the  houst^s  in  the  principal  streets.  Some  me» 
Itoration  of  these  nuisances  has^  we  believe^  taken  place  since 
Mr.  Dickinson  wrote. 

In  IStK)^  an  annual  cheese  market  was  established  here,  to 
be  held  on  ihe  Wednesday  preceding  the  second  of  October, 

The  Manufactures  of  Newark  are  extensive:  at  ihc 
south  end  of  the  town,  a  cotton  mill  has  been  erected  of  con- 
siderable size,  from  which  a  great  number  of  poor  derive  a 
comfortable  subsistencct  When  Sir  F.  M,  Eden  wrote  his  work 
on  the  poor,  he  states  the  cotton  business  to  have  been  th^n  the 
principal  one  here ;  and  adds  that  a  mill  for  making  cotton 
thread  for  the  hosiers  gave  employment  lo  upwards  of  JOO, 
chiefly  women  and  children,  earning  from  one  to  five  shillings 
per  week. 

In  North  gale,  there  is  a  very  large  Brewery,  where  a  great 
trade  was  carried  on  for  many  years  with  the  northern  parts  of 
Europe,  until  such  a  heavy  duty  was  imposed  on  the  impor- 
tation of  British  beer  by  the  Russian  government,  as  to  ajnount 
almost  to  a  prohibition.  Since  that  event.  It  is  pleasing  to  un- 
derstand that  the  propietors  have  cultivated  a  trade  at  home 
with  no  less  assiduity  than  success. 

The  Workhouse  is  one  uf  the  be&t  in  the  kingdom.  It  is 
sufficiently  capacious  and  well  aired  ;  and  the  sexes  very  judi- 
ciously separated,  on  the  two  sides.  Edtn  speaks  of  it  ^  as 
being  well  supplied  with  vegetables  from  a  good  garden,  and 
in  all  other  respects,  both  within  and  without,  exhibiting  a  de- 
gree 

*  Vide  Sir  Frederick  Mortoa  Edcn't  vtty  volutble  work  on  the  Stite  of  th« 
Poor, 


iW 


twotnyciTAiiinfic. 


gree  of  comfort  aii^!  ot^Aimm  m^Aom  ta  be  act  wiA*    Be 
gUttdet  to  a  nioft  libml  wrmtgemaUt  of  m  few  ai^afftaMV^ 
tter  tiedtrr  th&n  tbe  reitt  appointed  fiir  the  receptieii  of  i 

pemm*  ms  hsre  been  imfivrtiiiiAlely  (irtcipiceieil  firom  an  esey  ^ 
.Hftlfon  in  h(e,  to  ibe  bimiiUatiiig  conditio  of  sdbsieting  oq  « 
Ipwochial  allowance  :  and  be  adds  that  tbeir  iilaalion  receiTes 

erery  aitenibn  tbat  homaoity  coold  dictate.    This  was  polK 
I  Ibhed  »omc  few  yeart  ago  j  but,  on  recent  enqaiiy,  we  find  the 

tame  reputable  ccndoct  to  be  adhered  io,  and  eYen  improved 

on« 

In  1794,  when  Sir  F.  Eden  wrote,  the  industry  or  the  poo-  \ 
I  per«  also  was  well  attended  to  ;  some  of  ibe  children  were 

ployed  at  the  cotton  mill ;  others  permiued  to  engage  in  soch 

work  as  »ttited  them  tn  different  parts  of  the  town ;  and  tbe 

l^own  people  allowed  two-pence  in  the  shitltngoQt  of  their  ' 
imingB.     At  that  period  the  annual  expense  was  opwards  of 

The  badge,  as  appointed  by  tbe  act  of  William  the  third,  ts 
worn  by  ihe  paupers  ;  but  on  its  tiaring  been  laid  aside  some 
years  ago,  the  paupers  increased  so  much,  that  it  waa  toon  re^  ' 

I  ftored,  and  it  was  then  found  that  several  persons  who  ha«l  • 
liefore  made  regular  applications  to  the  parish  immedtatety 
declined  asking  for  relief!  The  donations  and  charities  are 
mostly  under  the  direction  of  the  corporation,  and  there  has 
been  of  late  years  about  190/.  per  annum  arising  from  these 
distributed  amongst  the  poor  in  money,  coals,  corn,  bread,  &c* 
to  wbich  we  rau^i  add  the  very  liberal  subscriptions  in  winter 
and  in  times  of  scarcity  to  relieve  the  distresses  of  those 
•easons.  There  are  two  hospitals,  or  almshouses,  for  the  re- 
ception of  14  decayed  tradesmen,  and  10  widows;  one  of  these 
was  fuunded  by  alderman  WillUam   Phil  pott,  who  left  ample 

(  possessions  for  its  support. 

But  the  Labouring  Poor  have  perhaps  done  more  for  their 
own  support,  in  ibis  place,  lliaii  in  any  other  town  in  ij^e  king* 
dom,  as  they  have  no  less  than  ten  friendly  societies,  wUicK 

even 


KOTTIKGHAHSHIAE* 


Ui 


tven  some  years  ago  consisted  of  WO  merabers*     Some  of  their 

Regulations  too  are  excellent  ;  no  relief  is  given   if  the  cause 

>f  distress  arises  from  qtiarrelling  or  from  vicioua  habiu ;  and 

any  member  spend ing»  at  one  sittings  more  than  twopence   in 

Bin   alehouse,  is  expelled.*       If  these,  or  similar  regwlalionsj 

^were  to  be  well  attended   to,  there  would  seldom  be  occasion 

for  a  Town  Gaol  :  from  the  size  of  this  one,  indeed,  we  may 

imagine  that  it  is  bnt  seldom  wanted.      When   the  benevolent 

[Howard  was  here,  it  was  merely  a  place  with  two  rooms  arched 

Lfrith  brick,  the  largest  up  stairs^  IS  feet  by  1 1 ;  but  as  the  two 

rindows   looked    towards  the  street,  he  complained  that  no 

l^uard  could  be  put  against  the  admission  of  spirituous  liquors  ; 

nor  was  there   either  courts  wateri  or  sewer,  for  the  conve- 

[lieiice  of   the  prisoners.      Some  melioration  has,  since  that, 

aken  place. 

The  Population  of  Newark  is  estimated  in  1795  by  Sir 
Frederick  IVL  Eden,  at  7000,  consisting,  as  he  describes  theni, 
>  of  tradesmen,  inn-keepers,  and  a  few  gentlemen  of  independent 
fortnne.  If  he  was  correct,  it  has  increased  very  little  in  a 
icour^e  of  17  years;  for  by  the  census  of  last  year  (181 1)  It 
tappears  that  there  are  only  S3 19  males,  and  3917  females,  mak- 
ing a  total  of  7*236 ;  and  that  these  form  1595  families,  inhabiting 
l1465  houses,  with  12  houses  building,  and  IS  uninhabited.  It 
i  may  seem  strange  to  see  innkeepers  specified  a?*  making  a  dis- 
Itinct  branch  of  the  population  ;  but  it  must  be  recollected  that 
IKewark  is  a  principal  station  on  the  great  north  road^f  The 
VouXIL  Q  inns 

•  Yet  m  11 9^  ilicrc  were  49  alchoutea  in  Newark ;  we  belief e  the  ivtiiu- 
^%er  ii  not  diminished. 

t  Tlie  north  road  nmning  througli  Uiit  town  bciag  a  cauw  of  great  ijjflux 
Lfi  »rrangers,  it  l)a»  long  been  a  matter  of  iiirereit  nitli  the  inhttbituntt  to 
tender  ii  eo  mm  odious.  That  part  of  it,  Bcro»  the  vule  of  Trent,  (tn  length 
atiom  three  roilci)  being  subject  to  it^undat'um*  of  the  rirer,  and  often  from 
that  circamftance  haying  been  im|>a^iable»  the  mliabitnnts  at  length  came  to 
ihu  piibhc  ipiiited  resolution  of  tnakmg  k  turnpike  road,  lo  high  and  tub- 
f  tanttal  a»  to  be  patied  with  safety  in  the  greatest  flood*.      Under  the  rond  in 

man^ 


ffOTflllGMAliSUl 

inns  abo  s&re  of  great  antiquityj  and  it  h  singular  ibat  llie  %r«- 
cm's  had  has  existed  as  an  iim  ever  since  ihe  days  of  Edward 
the  third  ;  this  k  proved  by  aseriea  of  conveyances  and  deeds: 
and  the  antiquity  of  another^  almost  contiguousi  is  ascertaintid 
by  the  deed  of  Adam  Creymers  de  Newark  and  Amicia  hii 
wife^  who  gave  to  their  »oti  Walter  all  that  house  known  "  by 
the  name  of  the  White  Hart,  in  the  market  stede,  and  passing 
backward  to  the  street  called  Carttir  Gale/'  temp.  Hen.  4,  The 
antiquity  of  the  Sv;an  and  Salmon  also,  near  to  the  castle^  is  ai* 
certaiiied  as  far  back  ai*  Henry  the  eighth* 

Mere  are  Subscription  Dance  and  Card  assemblies  held  at ' 
tjhe  Town  lull ;  the  Assembly  Room  is  handsomely  finished 
with  Corinthian  pilasters^  and  a  rich  coved  ceiling.  At  one 
end  of  Uiis^  the  sessions  are  occasionally  held ;  and  at  tb«  other 
the  corporation  meet  to  transact  public  business.  Upon  the 
wholet  the  state  of  social  manners  in  Newark  is  agreeable : 
how  much  of  it  is  owing  ta  the  remembrance  of  an  early  ex* 
ample,  we  shall  leave  to  the  Bcnedicis  to  determine  ;  but  there 
is  a  little  anecdote  told  of  queen  Henrietta  Maria  who  came 
here  in  the  civil  wars^  for  the  support  of  the  royal  cause,  witb 
an  army  under  the  command  of  Colonel  Jermyn.  Here  shfj 
remained  a  few  days,  and  treated  the  ladies  of  the  place  an4 
neigbbourhootl  hi  ^uch  a  courteous  aud  agreeable  manner,  tha 
they  pressL-d  her  much  lo  stay  with  thtiiii^  until  the  troop 
were  in  posses*ion  of  NoUingham,  Her  Majesty  replied,  tha 
she  was  under  the  command  of  the  king,  and  was  about 
march  by  his  ordt^r  to  another  place ;  but  although  she  could 
not  coniply  with  their  requeit,  she^  by  her  obedience,  would 
set  them  an  example  to  obey  thtir  husbands.  It  is  not  reconled 
that  she  had  absolutely  any  reason  tu  think  such  an  example , 
necessary ;  yet  we  think  it  possible  that  there  may  be  towns  in 

the 


many  places  are  srcltec  neatly  bailt  of  brick,  intended  to  eirry  o([  ttie  wutcr 
without  overflowing  tljc  rrmd  ;  there  is  a  bridge  utso  near  the  town  Coristructed 
for  the  a^me  pur|iQ»Cj  upuu  Ituid  too^tly  dry,  coiuiiting  of  uiiic  htij  tccbci 


VDTTDfOUAHaDtBE. 


14J 


the  kingdom  in  which  some  of  the  genlleraen  would  be  happy^ 
if  her  Majesty  had  paid  ih«n  a  visit  also,* 

Here  h  an  AcaicutTURAL  Meeting  which  has  been  attend- 
ed with  much  beneftt  to  the  neighbouring  counties* 

The  Parliamentary  and  Municipal  History  of  this  town 
present  some  scenes  of  an  agrtemcni  to  disagree,  which  are  by 
uo  means  conducive  to  the  comfort  of  the  place.  Real  pro- 
perty is  much  diffused  in  the  town,  in  consequence  of  which 
it  has  always  possessed  great  weight  in  county  eleccion^^  The 
number  of  freeholders  is  of  late  much  increased  from  the  divi« 
81  on  and  sale  of  property,  but  the  duke  of  Newcastle,  lord 
Middleton,  and  Sir  J*  W.  Gordon,  Bart,  arc  the  greatest  indi- 
vidual proprietors  In  the  parish.  In  consequence  too  of  such 
large  sums  of  public  money  being  at  the  disposal  of  the  trus- 
tees for  the  various  bequests,  thi're  have  been  of  late  years  the 
most  violent  contests  for  the  office  of  church  warden;  the 
partisans  have  been  diHtinguiBhed  by  red  and  blue  ;  and  it  is 
whispered  that  instances  have  taken  place  of  three  guineas 
being  paid  for  a  vote. 

No  great  diHerences^  however,  have  taken  place  on  religious 
points,  for  there  are  not  more  than  a  fourth  or  filth  of  the  in- 
habitants who  dissent  from  the  esiablishmenl.  These  are  either 
CalvinisLs,  or  Methodists;  and  each  have  a  place  of  worship, 
Oldfield,  in  his  *'  History  of  Boroughs/*  tells  us  that  a  con- 
test had  existed  here  above  a  century,  between  those  who  were 
taxed,  and  those  who  were  not  taxed,  but  who  were  of  sulBcient 
ability  to  be  charged  scot  and  lot !  These  latter,  however,  had 
iheiv  hard  com  taken  into  consideration  ;  and  in  1G9£^  the  House 
of  Commons  came  to  a  resolution,  that  all  who  paid,  or  ought 
to  pay,  had  a  right  to  vote  at  elections:  yet  in  a  resolution,  in 
1791*  the  words  "  ought  to  pay"  were  omiiled  |  but  we  have 
not  heard  of  any  comjdaints  of  late  years,  of  being  exempt 
from  taxes  f    The  families  of  Newcastle  and  Rutland  may  be 

Q  ^  supposed 

•  Mr.  Hartod,  a  modcra  topogtapfber.  givei  ihis  rtory  an  c»rlicf  OTijTa ; 
and  carriei  it  back  to  tlie  time  ^f  Heorjr  rb«  thiid. 


?44 


irOTTlNGHAMSirrRV. 


supposed  to  have  some  influence  here,  the  one,  from  property 
in  the  town;  the  other,  kom  landed  property  in  the  vicinity. 
An  oppositJtin,  however,  has  long  exrated,  at  the  hcjid  of  uhich 
of  late  years  haa  been  Mr,  Dickinson  Rastall,  the  antiquary 
and  topographer,  whose  liberal  character  and  conduct,  we  have 
l>een  given  to  understand,  have  prevented  an  overflow  of  party 
spirit  on  more  occasions  than  one,  and  to  whom  therefore, 
though  personally  unknown  to  us,  we  are  happy  to  pay  an 
humble  tribute  of  just  praise. 

Newark  is  the  last  borough  in  England  w*hich  received  a 
chartered  right  of  representation,  so  late  aji  the  99th  of  Charles 
the  second.  The  electors  consist  of  the  mayor,  12  aldermen, 
IS  assistants,  and  about  735  others,* 

As,  far  back  as  153^2,  a  donation  was  bequeathed  by  Robert 
Brown,  to  be  applied  *•  whether  in  the  reparation  of  the  church, 
or  any  good  works  to  be  done  in  the  town  '/*  there  are  also  se* 
vera  I  others,  and  the  whole  are  now  regulated  by  an  order  of 
chanc«:jy»  The  trustees  have  done  much  for  the  town,  from 
their  increase,  in  repairing  the  church,  paying  the  streets, 
building  the  town  ball,  and  supporting  the  poor ;  all  without 
parish  rates,  and  sanctioned  by  an  act  in  1773.  The  estates 
principally  lie  in  Everton  parish;  and,  instead  of  being  a  job, 
are  now  let  to  the  best  bidders,  and,  if  we  are  correctly  inform- 
ed, amount  in  the  whole  to  near  3000/.  per  annum. 

The  ViciNiTv  of  Newark  in  its  immediate  outskirts  has  been 
much  cat  up  by  military  w^rks  in  the  civil  wars^  many  traces 
of  wbicb  remain  ;  and  the  stranger  will  not  neglect  to  visit  the 
Beacox  Hill,  wUere  thtre  are  Mime  very  extensive  quarries  of 
gypsum,  once  extolled  as  a  manure^  but  said  by  Mr.  Lowej  in 
his  "  Agricultural  Survey/'  to  have  been  attended  with  •*  Imd 
succ€4s^''  in  this  neighbour Ivood* 

In 

•  The  Triiilatioft  of  Sif  Kichard  St.  George,  Norroj  ki»g  «t  arms,  m  1614, 
iHiw  in  the  Hftrl.  Cal.  H00>  coiiUhis  nnny  particulars  respecting  the  cotf^o- 
r«iinu.  The  corporate  unus,  given  b^  EUsabeUi,  ure  considered  by  Mr.  Die^* 
toioD^  ij  UJustmtive  of  \he  fimUtcs  Iheo  posscstiitg  iiifioeitceio  tbe  place. 


w 


In  the  BioGRAFtiY  of  Newarlr^  we  inusl  not  forget  Tkam^ 
Magnus,  who,  by  an  old  tradition  recorded  by  Fuller,  is  said  i<f 
have  been  found  in  the  church  porch,  and  therefore  called  by 
the  people,  *•  Thomas  among  Us  :**  but  it  appears  to  be  olbrr- 
ivise  from  his  deed  of  settlement,   (when  Archdeacon  of  the  east 
Riding  of  Yorkshire,  and   Warden  of  Sibthorpe   College,)  in 
which  he  mentions  several  of  bis  family.      "Itsoundeth  much 
in  his  praise,"  says  Fuller,  "that  he  forgot  not  bis  gratitude  to 
thetoi«niof  his  nativity,  where   he  erected    a  fair  school  with 
other  benefactioit6.     He  Bourished,  as  1  take  it,  under  Henry 
the  eighth/' 

John  Lightfoot,  D,D.  chancellor  of  Cambridge,  and  vrcll 
knownj  by  his  Hebrew  and  Rabbinical  learning,  was  born 
herein  1602;  but  hb  life  is  not  sufficiently  interesting  to  re- 
quire further  notice. 

At  CoDDjNGTON,  on  the  S(cf{ford  road,  ts  a  handsome  stat  of 
S.  C.  Colclougb,  Esq,  but  this  neighbourhood  is  most  remarka* 
ble  for   Brough,  which  Stukely  calls   the  undoubted  Crocohna 
of  the  Romans,   lying  three  miles  north   of  Newark.      He  de* 
rive«  this  name  from  the  qoantitiet»  of  wild  salFron,  {Krokois,  in 
the  Greek,  and  British  £Aan,  an  enclo!«ure,)  but  thisis  fanciful, 
as  well  as  Baxter^s  idea  of  Orug,  a  healh.     All  traces,  howcM*er, 
of  the  city  are  gone,  except  the  straighrne«s  of  the  roads  and 
bye  lanes,  with  repeated  discoveries  of  coins,  much  rusty  iron, 
and  iron  ore,  which  is  thought  by  Stukelcy  to  prove  the  exist* 
encc   of  antient  forges  here.      He  adds  *'  the  old  landlady  at 
the  little  alehouse,  which   is   the  only  house   there,  till   Tom 
Cope's  and  another  were  lately  built,  (1724),  says  that  where 
her  fire  place    is    the  cross  once  stood,  and  that  the  nliole  \& 
fairy  ground,  and  very  lucky  to  live  on/' 

Barnbt  IH  THE  Willows,  is  a  smaff  place  on  the  borders, 
with  a  small  church;  and  BALi>EftT0N  about  two  mil ei  front 
Newark,  where  there  is  a  handsome  seat  of  Joseph  Sykes,  Vsq* 
though  a  large  village  on  the  great  north  road,  is  only  remark- 
able  for  a    most  curious   Saxon   porch   to  the  church,  richly 

Q  "1  wrought 


ti6 


VOTTIHGBAMi^niRS. 


wronght  wilh  zig  zag  iDoiildingt  and  oxes  heads  ;*  and  for  a 
curious  epitaph  on  Anne  Lake  in  IfiGO  which  says  that 


-  (he  was  sent 


In  virgin  cojrne  to  pay  dame  D«ture*i  rent,** 

and  concludes  >ith  asserting  what  some  may  he  dbpo5«fd  to  al- 
loWj  that 

"  The  iicxl  to  the  martyr'i,  » the  virght*s  place  1** 

Hawton*  a  small  Tillage,  south  of  Newarkf  with  its  chorch 
surrounded  by  trees^  presents  a  very  picturesque  appearance ; 
but  unfortunately  most  of  the  ancient  monamental  figures  de* 
scribed  by  Thoroton^  principally  of  the  Moiyneux  family,  to* 
gether  with  the  armorial  glass,  are  now  in  a  state  of  dllapidalod 
mutilation  and  destructive  fracture*  The  stalls  in  the  chancel 
are  rich  in  decorations  of  carving  ;  but  some  of  the  designs  are 
too  grossly  indelicate  for  preservation. 

Staunton  lies  about  seven  miles  S.  S.  E-  of  Newark,  and  ih« 
same  distance  to  the  north  east  of  Bingham;  and  ij*  situated  in 
thevsile  of  Belvoir,  at  the  extremity  of  the  county,  adjoining 
Lincolnshire  and  Leicestershire,  about  two  miles  from  Long 
Benningtun^  through  which  the  north  road  parses,  and  is  1^ 
miles  from  London, 

The  lordihip  of  Staunton  contains  LlOO  acres  of  land,  and 
was  inclosed  in  the  year  1760.  The  soil  is  clay,  which  pro* 
duces  good  wheat  and  beans,  and  excellent  grazing  ground  : 
there  is  a  quarry  of  exceeding  good  stone  in  the  parish,  hav- 
ing three  strata;  the  tirst  is  thin  and  shivery;  only  fit  for  tiie 
top  dressing  of  roads;  the  second  is  a  hard  blue  stone,  proper 
lor  building  and  burning  into  lime,  which  ts  equal  in  quality 
to  the  Barrow  lime  in  Leicestershire,  being  impervious  to  water; 
and  the  third  stratum  is  a  large  flooring  stone,  u.«ed  by  the  in* 
habitants  in  laying  the  floors  of  their  dwellings;  it  has  also 
been  known  to  polish  f^^r  chimney  pieces.  As  the  lime  is  so 
very  .similar  in  quality  to  the  Barrow  lime,  it  is  supposed  that 

the 

•  Of  thh  a  plaie  roaj  be  seen  in  the  Gcnt.'i  Mtg,  faU  16*  |v  ^i%, 


1?0TTIHGnAH9BIllK« 


547 


the  same  strata  of  stone  run  from  Barrow  through  Staunton  to 
Beacon  hiU  near  Newark. 

StauiiLoLi  belonged  to  two  maiden  ladies,  Anne  and  Emma, 
the  only  surviving  daughters  of  J  oh  Staunton  Charlton^  Esq. 
who  served  in  Parliament  for  the  borough  of  Newark  for  many 
years*  He  was  the  last  male  heir  of  this  most  ancient  family  j  and 
died  in  January  1777.  His  father  was  Gilbert  Charlton^  second 
son  of  Sir  Job  Charlton^  of  Ludford  in  the  county  of  Hereford, 
baronet;  and  his  mother  Anne,  the  eldest  daughter  ot  Harvey 
Staunton*  Esq,  whose  ancestors  have  been  in  possession  of  this 
place^  from  the  time  of  the  Saxon?!  in  10G6.  This  union  trans- 
ferred the  Staunton  estate  to  the  CUarlioniS^  and  upon  the  death 
of  Anne^  the  eldest  and  iast  surviving  daughter  of  the  above 
named  Job  Staunton  Charlton,  (who  died  in  1807,)  bbe  left  lier 
estates  at  Staunton  and  in  Yorkshire  to  her  :$econd  cousin  Eliza* 
bethtf  the  daughter  of  Job  Brough,  Esq.  of  Newark^  and  the 
wife  of  the  Rev.  John  Ashpinshaw,  LL.  D.  untl  directed  by 
her  last  will  and  testament^  that  they  and  their  issue  should 
take  the  name  and  bear  the  arms  of  Staunton  only,  which  was 
confirmed  by  the  king*s  sign  manual  June^Oth^  id07,  and  re* 
gislered  in  the  College  of  Anns. 

The  mansion,  of  which  a  plate  is  here  annexed,  is  a  hand* 
some  and  noble  structure,  with  many  very  excellent  rooms 
therein  of  large  dimensions,  and  the  gardens  and  pleasure 
grounds  are  very  beautiful  and  extensive,  from  whence  there 
is  a  delightful  view  of  Bel  voir  Castle,  the  seat  of  hi.^  grace 
the  Duke  of  R-jtland,  Sir  IVIauger  Staunton  defended  this  cas* 
tie  against  William  the  firt^t,  <luke  of  Normandy,  generally 
styled  William  the  conqueror,  and  there  made  his  composition 
and  contract  for  his  lands,  and  had  the  strongest  fortress  therein, 
ever  since  called  by  his  jvame  **  Staunton's  Tower/^ 

The  church  is  a  handsome  structure,  with  a  tower,  contain* 
ing  four  bellr*^  and  is  dedicated  to  St,  Mary,      In   the  church 
are  many  monuments  of  the  Slauntons,  of  great  antiquity. 
The   Rev.  Dr.  Staunton,  the   present  possffssor,  has  made 

Q  4  great 


great  improvements  in  planting  and  ornamenting  the   place. 
The  tower  of  the  church  and  the  woods  about  the  mansion  may 
be  seen   from   the   north    road  between  long   Bennington  andi 
Newark.* 

SiBTHORPE  had  once  a  large  mansion  of  the  Burneiis,  but 
nothing  now  remains  except  a  dove  cote.  In  the  church  are  I 
some  ancient  tombs  of  the  Burnell  family  ;  on  one  of  whicht 
Mr,  Throsby  in  a  fit  of  critical  accuracy  corrects  a  mistake  of 
'  Thorotun,  by  substituting  1589  fur  1590.  Tanner  tells  us  that 
here  was  a  College  founded  by  Geffrey  le  Scroop,  ia  the  reigr% 
of  Edward  tlie  second^  the  whole  of  which  aflerwards  came  to 
the  Wballeyg* 

Flintham  has  a  handsome  Hall,  the  9eat  of  colonel  Thoroton, 
a  descendant  of  Dr.  Tliorotoii  the  topogi-apher.  It  is  a  hand- 
some modern  building  on  the  road  from  Bingham  to  Newark, 
and  erected  on  an  ancient  mansion  of  the  Husseys  since  the 
time  of  Edward  the  third.  The  church  contains  an  ancient 
cross  legged  hgure  of  the  Hth  century^  described  by  Gough^i- 
and  vulgarly  called  "Old  Butler;"  but  the  legs  are  nearly 
gone,  and  it  is  shamefully  mutilated,  A  former  incumbent  of 
this  parish  was  an  odd  character,  and  saved  upwards  of  1500/, 
by  a  most  beggarly  and  penurious  mode  of  life;  he  has  been 

known 

*  A  fuller  account  of  Staunton,  and  the  Staunton  family  maj  be  seen  m 
Ttiorolou^t  Antiquitiei  of  Nottingliambhirer  p.  156,  (where  there  %*  m  cunout 
rhyniiiig  pedigree  dane  by  one  Robert  Cude,  wiih  nil  tlte  epitaphs  sud  also 
all  the  buildiug*,  births,  roarr^agcv  &c»)  also  in  thtl  rcry  excellent  nnd  ro- 
lummous  work,  NicoJls's  Hittor^- of  LeicesLcrthirej  YoL  IL  ftagoa  t6i  f7^ 
84»  uiid^r  the  head  "  Bel  voir/' 

The  arroa  of  Staunton  are,  Jtrgciit,  two  chcrronels  ubte.  Crest^  a  foji 
passant  pro  per* 

*\  \\t  pre»enl  iirms  are  argent,  two  cKetronelf  snbJe  :  and  (for  diuiitctba) 
iiQ  A  Ctnton  Bxtite,  a  quairtfoU  or,  crest,  a  fox  pas«aiit  properi  chsrgvd,  to^, 
)  distinction,  with  a  qiiatrcl'oil. 

The  Stiiuntou»,  huronet^,  of  Ireland  (<i(  wham.  Sir  George  StpuntOQ,  the 
cainiitiuion  oi  Lord  Macartney'  in  his  embaft^,  was  the  first  barooel]  arc  Mt4 
ic»  br  »  yoanger  branch  of  the  ramily, 

f  Sepukhrul  Monimt^nts. 


FOTTlirOHAMSHIEl. 


240 


known  to  ierve  the  thatchers  to  g€t  a  penny,  and  once  went  to 
Newark  with  a  letter  for  the  sum  of  twopence  ! 

Elveston  or  Elston  has  an  ancient  mansioHj  the  residence 
of  Robert  Waring  Danvin,  Esq,  The  village  is  large,  nnd  has 
an  hospital  for  lour  widows  founded  by  Anne  Darwin  in  1744. 
The  neat  church>  dedicated  to  All  Saints,  contains  many  monu- 
mente  of  the  Darwin  family*  originally  of  Lincolnshire, 

The  late  admired  Dr.  Darwin,  was  a  native  of  ibis  place 
and  youngest  8on  of  Robert  Darwin,  E&q*  a  barrister.  After 
receiYing  the  radiments  of  education  at  a  country  school^  be 
went  to  Sl  John*s  college,  Cambiidge,  where  he  proceeded 
M.B.  in  1755,  and  bis  fir^st  poetic  eHuBions  were  in  the  Uoiver- 
aity  collection  of  odes  and  elegies  on  the  death  of  the  late 
prince  of  Wales.  These,  however,  are  considered  a*  not  con* 
ferring  any  distinction  on  the  author  ;  nor  did  they  even 
give  any  promises  of  his  future  excellence.  Having  received 
his  degree  of  MJX  he  found  the  capital  overstocked,  and  there- 
fore jieiected  Lilcbfield  for  hi^  professional  labuurs,  where  he 
resided  many  years. 

He  wrote  several  medical  treatises,  and  in  1789  brought  out 
his  "  Botanical  Garden  ;""  after  w  hicb,  impressed  with  a  thorough 
conviction  of  the  aJvantage,s  rcsuking  from  system,  he  reduced 
Medicine  to  the  Ltnnean  mode  of  arrangement  in  bi»  **  Zriono- 
mia,  or   Laws  of  Organic    Life/*      He   afterwards   settled   at 

^  Derbyj  and  his  whole  life  was  distinguished  by  a  regard  to  the 
cause  of  science^  and  of  humanit}*. 

In  the  Philosophical  Transactions,^  there  is  a  curious  paper 
by  Br.  Stukeley,  describing  a  stone    found    in  the  grounds  at 

k^he  rectory  here,  with  a  skeleton  impressed  in  itj  of  a  roost 
enormous  size,  and  which  is  supposed  to  have  belonged  to  a 
cry  cod  lie,  or  porpoise.  The  -vtone  was  supposed  to  have  beea 
brought  from  the  neighbouring  quarries  of  Fulbcck,  through 
the  whole  of  which  range  of  hills  there  are  immense  strata  of 
.Stone  abounding  in  shells  and  other  submarine  substauccs. 

Stokr 
•  Vol  XXX,  p.  96. 


iroTTiirGnAMSinAi. 


Stohs  by  NswAfiK  is  a  very  pleasont  filiage^  moitretiredTj 
sitoated  on  the  banks  of  the  Trent,  though  the  post  road  goes 
iBrough  part  of  it.  It  liejt  upon  the  fosse,  and  ixiay  have  been 
m  Roman  station  ;  it  had  also  a  very  ancient  hospital  *  dedi* 
catcd  to  St.  LcoDard,  for  a  master,  chaplains,  brethren^  and^H 
s»ck  persons.  ^^ 

Near  the  churthj  is  a  pleasing  little  inansioii,  the  residence 
of  Sir  George  Smith  Bromley,  Bart,  in  the  arrangement  of 
which  taste  and  comfort  seem  to  hare  gone  hand  in  hand.  The 
grounds,  ihoctgh  on  a  small  sca1e>  are  pleasing*  and  ha?e  aft 
extensive  prospect  over  the  Tale  of  Trent  below*  and  also  ct\ 
the  Church f  a  re.spectable  edifice  standing  on  arising  ground  tM 
iwoai^  &nd  dedicated  to  St.  Oswald.  The  chancel  is  ancient, 
and  the  whole  is  kept  in  excellent  order,  so  as  to  do  away  thi 
complaint  made  by  Mr*  Thrnsby  twenty  years  ago:  here  ts  i 
monument  to  the  memory  of  the  father  of  the  present  baroncL 

Siokc field,  as  it  is  called,  was  the  scene  of  the  battle  between 
Henry  the  seventh,  ami  tho  army  under  the  earl  of  I^incollfei 
who  had  espoii*^ed  the  cause  of  the  Impostor  Lambeth  Stmneli 
the  pretended  earl  of  Warwiclc^  and  claimant  of  the  crown,-! 
This  took  place  in  1487,  but  Hall,  Stow,  and  HoUinHbed,  a1 
ditVer  with  respect  to  the  day,  calling  it  the  6th,  IGdi,  and  20tlfa{ 
of  Juui*  Uering  according  to  tradition  says,  that  Henry'mj 
bead  quarters  were  in  Elsian  fields,  and  that  the  battle 
fought  close  to  them,  the  earl  of  Lincoln  having  quartered  at 
Newark;  but  Rapin  copying  from  the  chronicles, says,  thai  the 
king  marched  so  as  to  prevent  the  earl  fiom  reaching  Newark, 
and  encamped  between  that  town  and  the  enemy,  whilst  the 
cafl,  advaticing  to  Stoke,  encamped  on  the  side  of  a  hiH,  a 
pof^ition  whirh  we  shall  presently  shew  to  be  correct.  The 
nrxtday,  the  king  having  formed  his  army  into  three  lines^f 
reftoWing  that  ibe  Tan  only  should  engage,  and  having  advanc- 
ed into  the  plain  to  offer  battle,  the  earl  left  hts  strong  po* 

aitioi 

*  Tanner *s  A^ofinsticon. 
t  Vide  Bacoa's  History  of  Henry  the  Mventk. 


intion,  the  battle  commenced^  and  after  three  hours*  liard  Bght- 
in^,  in  which  the  insurgents  did  wonders,  Irtish  under  the  earl 
of  Kilddre,  Germans  under  Martin  Swart,  as  well  as  the  few 
English,  the  whole  rebel  line  was  broken^  and  all  the  chieftains 
slain.  A  flight  now  touk  place  in  which  the  greatest  part  of 
the  fugitiyes  were  slain,  having  taken  a  route  to  the  river,  in 
hopes  of  fording  it,  by  a  deep  raTtne  (leading  to  Fiskerton 
Ferry)  which,  the  tnidiiion  of  that  neighbourhood  says,  run 
with  blood.  This  ravine  is  extremely  deep  and  steep,  but  now 
filled  op  with  young  plantations  ;  it  is  parallel  to  the  modem 
road,  and  opens  on  the  plain  at  the  back  of  the  ferry  house, 
where  the  river  is  easily  fordable  for  horses,  and  might  even 
be  passed  by  armed  men,  if  there  was  a  necessity.  Bacon,  in 
his  history,  complains  that  "  the  relations  that  are  left  unto  us 
are  so  naked,  and  negligent,  {though  it  be  an  action  of  so  recent 
memory,)  as  they  rather  declare  the  success  of  the  day,  than 
the  manner  of  the  fight ;"  it  is  evidenti  however,  from  a  care- 
ful view  of  the  ground,  compared  with  the  different  accounts» 
and  by  an  eye  not  unaccustomed  to  such  scenes,  that  the  battle 
must  have  been  fought  in  the  plain  between  Stoke  and  Thorpe, 
rather  than  between  Stoke  and  Elstfin.  The  total  slaughter  of 
both  armies  amounted  to  70C>C)  men  ;*  and  though  the  lord 
Love],  one  of  the  insurgents,  is  stated  by  cotemporary  histo- 
rians to  have  swam  into  the  Trej^t  on  horseback,  **  but  could  not 
recover  the  further  side  bj^  reason  of  ihesteepnesse  of  the  bank 
and  so  was  drowned ,"  yet  Bacon  adds  "but  another  report 
leases  him  not  there,  but  that  he  lived  long  after  in  a  cave  or 
Tault/'  Now  it  is  a  curious  fact  that  Bacon  should  have  beard 
such  a  report,  particularly  when  we  advert  to  Gough's  addi- 
tions to  Camden,  where  it  is  said  ihnt  the  house  of  Minster 
Lovel  in  Oxfordshire  which  belonged  to  Lord  Lovel,  bentgnot 
many  years  ago  pulled  down,  in  a  vauli  was  formd  the  body  of 
a  man^  in  very  rich  cIoathF^,  seated  in  a  chair,  with  a  table  and 

mass 

*  Bftcon  Mji  4000  of  the  insurgents  and  nil  the  officers,  together  with 
aoe  half  or  the  king*s  vanguard,  bul  none  of  itote. 


252 


irOTTIVGRAMSHTRE. 


insss  book  before  him*  The  body  was  enlire  when  fnuntJ  by 
th<e  workmen^  but  upon  admission  of  the  air^  soon  fell  into 
dust.  From  this,  Mr.  Gough  concludes  that  having  retired  lo 
his  own  house*  be  had  trusted  himself  to  some  servant^  and 
afterwards  been  neglectetl  through  treachery^  fear,  or  accident^ 
befaUirig  the  servant.  Under  all  these  circumstances,  ho%vever, 
it  ii  cxlraof  dinary  bow  the  report  could  have  arisen  io  Bacon's 
lime,  so  long  before  ibis  last  mentioned  discovery. 

It  is  extremely  probable,  from  the  coincidence  of  name  and 
other  circumstances^  that  this  event  formed  the  ground  work  of 
Miss  Clara  Beeve's  elegant  romance  of  the  "Old  BngUsh  Ba- 
ron/' 

On  the  high  road  from  Newark  to  Worksop,  is  KctifAM 
House,  the  seat  of  John  Manners  Sutton,  Esq,  This  h£dl,  or 
houMCt  is  a  plain  but  elegant  building  of  brick  with  stone  cor- 
ners and  window  frames,  of  three  stories  in  height,  standing 
in  a  hajidsome  bwn  on  the  banks  of  the  Trent.  It  consists  of 
a  large  centre  and  two  wing^j;  the  lawn  and  grounds,  though 
not  very  extensive,  are  yet  extremely  pleasing  and  kept  in  good 
order ;  and  the  view  of  Newark,  across  the  river,  forms  a  fine 
prospect  from  the  house.  It  had  for  some  time  been  unoccu* 
pied,  but  is  again  inhabited  by  the  family.  Close  to  the 
grounds  there  Is  a  very  curious  wooden  bridge  over  the  Trent, 
which,  him  ever,  does  not  seem  exactly  to  justify  Mr^Throsby's 
observation  of  its  being  ''apparently  the  most  complex  man 
ever  formed/'  The  village  Is  small,  but  comfortable;  and  the 
church,  dedicated  to  St,  Winifred,  has  a  very  handsome  tower, 
and  also  a  richly  wrought  monument  of  the  last  lord  Lexington 
and  his  lady,  of  line  statuary  marble,  but  the  figures  strangely 
placed  back  to  back,  lie  holds  a  coronet  in  one  hand,  and  a 
book  in  the  other  which  rests  upon  a  scull,  whibt  the  lady  has 
a  ring,  the  emblem  of  matrimonial  happiness  in  this  world,  and 
Clenml  duration  in  the  next.  The  inscription  states  the  family 
of  Sutton  to  have  flourished  here  from  time  immemorial,  and 
their  claim  to  the  title  to  be  as  old  a*  1251»  at  which  time  Row- 
land 


HOTTLKOHABrSIfTIIE. 


tss 


land  Suttoa  married  Alice,  sister  and  coheir  to  Robert  lord  Lcx- 
iugton* 

AvEaHAM,  or  Aham,  was  sinother  seat  of  the  family,  but  fio\7 
diamantled  and  disparked.  The  church  has  some  curious  alle- 
gorical memorials  of  South  and  Tou,  &c.  wilh  many  motiu-* 
inenls,  particularly  of  the  first  lord,  who,  a«  Thoroton  says» 
"  Tery  much  increased  his  patrimonyj  ever  kept  a  plentiful 
sober  house,  and  was  much  out  of  purse  for  Charles  the  first, 
who  created  him  a  Peer/'  He  h  described  as  a  loyal  subject,  a 
lover  of  his  cuutitryi  a  good  husband,  father,  friend,  landlord^ 
master,  and  neighbour.  On  a  monument  of  Sir  William  But- 
toHj  there  are  recorded 

'*  Eiglit  of  each  sex  ;  of  each  an  equal  pnrt, 
Ualiercd  to  lieuven  their  fftlher,  und  tiic  other 
Rem&iiied  behind  him  to  atleud  Iheir  mothur.*' 


At  BeesthorpEi  in  this  nei^^hbourhood,  there  is  a  good  seat 
belonging  to  Thomas  Bristow,  Esq.  and  there  was  a  Charity 
School,  supported  by  a  small  endoxvment,  and  voluntary  con- 
tributions ;  but  it  is  now  no  more.  The  hall  is  a  spacious  man- 
sion, quite  in  the  old  style  of  James's  reign,  with  pointed 
ruofs,  an  ancient  hall,  a  tower*  and  some  very  extensive  of- 
fices. There  were  several  other  ancient  seats  here,  good  spe- 
cimens of  old  times.  Dean  shall,  Earlston,  &c.  but  these  have 
been  all  pulled  down, 

NoKTH  and  South  Muskbajis  on  the  great  north  road  now 
form  one  village  of  upwards  of  a  mile  and  half  in  length.  The 
church  is  dedicated  to  St.  Wilfrid,  is  situated  in  the  centre  of 
the  village,  and  has  a  respectable  Gothic  appearance  being 
as  old  as  the  14th  century  at  least ;  here  are  some  old  monu- 
men  Is. 

In  South  Muskhah  is  the  Grange,  a  very  pleasing  resi- 
dence, the  seat  of  William  Dickenson  Rastall,  Es<|.  who  has 
distinguished  himself  as  a  topographer  of  some  uf  the  most 
interesting  parts  of  his  native  county*      Part  of  the  house  was 

built 


«§• 


KOTTryGHAMSniRE. 


built  about  tbe  close  of  the  seventeenth  century,  the  other  part 
iii  more  recent,  and  having  two  neat  wings  in  the  modern  styl^ 
the  whole  is  now  a  neat  and  convenient  abode,  with  good  plea- 
sure grounds,  &c. 

lit  North  Muskham  is  Muskham  Home,  a  superb  modem 
edi6re,  built  in  1793^  the  residence  of  Joseph  Pocklington^ 
Esq.  ft  stands  on  the  east  side  of  the  north  road^  and  consbtJi 
of  a  centre  of  very  fine  elevation,  and  two  wing.^;  with  of- 
fices on  a  very  extensive  scale. 

A  singular  character  died  at  this  Tillage  in  1805  \  his  name 
Wuu.      About  thirty  years  before  his  decease,  he  made  a  voi^^^H 
never  to  step  out  of  his   house  on  any  account ;  and  notwiih^^H 
standing  the  entreaties  of  his  friends  scrupulously  adhered  to  It 
until  his  death. 

VViNTHOBPE  Hall,  the  seat  of  R*  Pockliiigton,  Esq.  is  also  io 
this  neighbourhood,  and  is  an  elegant  building  of  two  stoiie* 
on  a  rustic  baaemeiiL  The  plantations  and  grounds  arc  very 
extensive  j  and  on  a  gentle  rise  which  commands  charming 
prospects,  particularly  over  the  vale  of  Belvoir,  there  is  an  oc- 
tagonal temple  with  a  table  made  out  of  part  of  the  wrecks  of 
the  Spanish  tloating  batteries  desti-oyed  at  the  memorable  at- 
tack on  Gibraltar. 

HoLMEi  a  village  three  miles  from  Newark,  and  tti  this  vi- 
cinity, is  highly  deserving  the  notice  of  the  antiquary,  on  ac- 
count of  its  Churchy  This  village*  in  the  seventeenth  century^ 
belonged  to  Sir  Thomas  Barton,  knight;  whose  fortune  having 
been  acquired  by  the  woollen  manufacture,  he  was  not  ash  am* 
ed  to  confess  it,  but  placed  the  following  distich  m  the  windows 
of  hU  mansion. 


"  I  tliaiik  God,  nod  ever  ihall ; 
It  was  itie  $lieepp  tUal  pftid  for  alj.*' 


The  rhurclb  or  rather  chapel,   has  some  monuments  of  the 

family  in  the  chancel.     On  the  north   side  stands  a  very  large 

and  curious  aliar  tomb  witli  two  recumbent  Bj^urcs  of  a  man 

9  aad 


irOTVfKGHAMSIflllt. 

and  wc^tnan,  and  below  a  very  striking  figure  of  «n  emaciated 
youth  in  tbi'  last  stage  of  a  dt^cliue. 

Over  the  south  porch  is  a  cbambcr  culled  **  NanScolCs."  It 
is  saidj  by  tradition^  that  the  bst  great  plague  wai^  pailicularly 
fatal  10  t  bis  village  I  at  which  time  this  A  niitj  Scott  re  It  red  ta 
the  room  bere  lueutiont^d^  with  a  sulBcient  quaiuuty  of  food  to 
last  her  sevt^ral  week's.  Having  remained  unnoticed  UEitil  lier 
{provisions  v^'tfre  eicpendtd^  she  ventured  to  return  to  the  villa^^ 
Mhicb  she  found  entirely  deserted,  only  one  person,  b€!side4 
herself,  of  its  former  iiifiabitanls^  being  alive.  Shockeil  tijr 
the  horrors  of  the  scene,  she  is  said  lo  have  returned  to  ihit 
chamber,  where  she  took  up  her  residence  again  for  the  re* 
maiiider  of  a  long  I  ife. 

Cromwell  stands  on  the  great  north  road,  a  little  beyond 
Muskhani.  The  village  h  but  liniall,  but  is  remarkable  for  % 
handsome  parsonage  which  owes  much  to  the  late  incumbent^ 
the  Rev.  Dr.  Eastall.  It  was  "  ancientley  the  seate  of  Crum- 
well  which  was  raised  in  Sir  Raufe  Cruniwell  to  Lord  Cromc- 
well  of  Tattershall  in  Lincolnshire^  and  Lord  Treasurer  of  £i«g- 
land  in  the  time  of  Henry  the  sixth,  and  died  Kans  issue/'* 

Caulton  uroii  Trent  is  a  pleasant  Tillage  on  the  same  greai 
roadj  with  a  very  handsome  and  commodious  ina.  The  maxt* 
lion  house  was  built  about  the  middle  of  the  last  century,  and 
was  long  the  residence  of  Sir  William  Earle  Welby,  BarL  Tbc 
small  chapel  is  curious;  and  the  tourist  cannot  fail  to  observe  a 
smair  house  by  the  road  side  with  a  large  hor&e-sboe  In  brick- 
work at  the  end  of  it.  It  seems  whimsical;  but  the  editor  of 
these  sheets  could  not  procure  any  inform  a  tion  respecting  it* 

The  Collegiate  Church,  and  town  of 


SOUTriWELU 

lie  to  the  weit  of  Newark,  on  the  opposite  side  of  tbe  river.     It 
In  seated  on  a  gC title  eminence,  embosomed  in  trees«  and  in  tbe 

leoUre 
•  hUrl  Col  5^. 


i^aTtnTGHAMSirraf. 


centre  of  an  amphit+jeatre  of  swelling  hills,  on  a  ferlflf 
well  woodedi  ant]  iheir  bases  washed  by  ihe  little  riv« 
so  much  celebrated  for  its  red  troat.  This  town  is  vei 
reduced  in  h\ze  of  late  years;  and  we  have  been  informed  that  the 
foundations  of  a  whole  street  have  been  at  times  discovered  ruD- 
ning  in  an  east  and  west  direction,  in  a  part  of  the  immediate  vici- 
nity where  now  there  are  no  other  Iraces  of  inhabitftnts;  biit  ihe 
hamlets  of  Eai^t  and  West  Thorpe,  which  are  coniiguotis  to  it, 
appearing  to  form  part  of  it^  and  going  under  the  same  name^ 
the  toyrist  will  generally  consider  H  as  a  pretty  Urge,  bul 
much  scattered  country  town,  without  referring  to  these  local 
distinctionii.  It  is  properly  divided  into  two  parts;  the  Birr- 
gage  or  **  Borridge/-  and  the  Prebcndage:  the  former  of  i%hicb 
comprehends  all  that  space  between  the  market  place  and  the 
river  Greet,  whilst  in  the  other  is  the  Collegiate  Church  and  iu 
property. 

That  this  was  a  Roman  station,  there  can  be  no  doubt; 
though  antiquaries  have  cjuarrelled  about  its  name.  On  the 
Burrrdge  hill  are  the  remains  of  a  Roman  fosse,  evidently  the 
Burgtis,  or  camp ;  and  many  old  Roman  bricks  have  been  foun< 
in  the  rwins  of  the  prebendal  houses  and  the  late  discovery  ol 
the  foundation  of  the  Roman  bridge  in  the  Trent,  near  to  Win* 
thorpe^  from  which  to  Southwell  the  road  has  been  traced  by 
Mr.  Dickinson,  has  tended  very  much>  in  that  gentleman's  opi 
nJon,  to  confirm  the  belief  that  Souilixvell  was  the  true  Ai> 
PoNTEM  of  the  Romans.  Ilorstey  indeed,  in  his  Britannia  R 
mana,  whilst  commenting  nn  the  sixth  Iter,  thinks  that  if  ibt 
distance  of  Ad  Pontem  from  Margidunum  is  set  o0*  froui  ih 
station  near  East  Bridgeford,  it  will  bring  us  to  Farndon  ovef 
against  Southwell ;  hut  he  adds,  ilvat  though  Newark  has  by 
lome  been  supposed  to  be  the  place  which  Berle  calls  **  TiovuU 
fingaceaster/'  yet  that  termination  seeming  to  imply  a  Roman 
station  somewhere  in  its  neighbourhood,  (which  he  did  not  be- 
lit!ve  Newark  1o  have  been,)  might  apply  to  Southwell  *'  an 
ancient  place,  but  on   the  wrong  side  of  the  river/'     He  stJII^ 

howcvirr. 


le 


NOTTIKGHAMSBIKI. 


fsr 


however,  considers  Ad  Ponicm  as  having  been  in  this  neigh- 
bourhood;  and  even  this  admission  is  considered  by  Mr.  Dick- 
iuson  as  in  favour  of  his  opinion.  The  Saxon  name  of  TiovuU 
fingaceaster  is  said  by  this  latter  gentleman  to  mean,  (when 
analysed)  *'  the  place  where  much  industry  was  employed  in 
laying  hands  on  the  multitude;*'  Tio!«  signifying  iflf/u^frj^  in 
Saxon,  Vulgus  being  the  Latin  for  multitude,  Fengar,  Saxon,  ta 
iffy  hand^  o%  and  Ceaster,  the  Saxon  for  castrum,  alluding  to  the 
baptismal  ceremony  performed  by  Paulinus  first  archbishop  of 
York,  in  which  the  crowd  were  dipped  in  the  Trent  as  soon  as 
they  were  converted.  The  modern  appellation  is  said  by  Dug- 
dale,  to  have  arisen  from  a  spring  or  well  to  the  southward  of 
the  church, 

LeJand  in  his  Itinerary,  in  the  reign  of  Henry  the  eighth 
says,  '*  Southwell  town  is  mctely  well  builded,  but  there  is  no 
market  public.  The  minster  of  oar  lady  is  large  but  of  no 
fi^leasant  buildingt  but  rather  strong/'  Its  appearance,  how- 
ever,  at  the  present  day  is  such  as  even  Leland  might  have  ad* 
mired^  (though  more  a  man  of  industry  than  of  taste^)  as  much 
has  of  late  years  been  done  to  give  it  a  thorough  repair.  For 
this  purpose  a  contribution  has  been  set  on  foot,  as  far  back  as 
1804,  the  whole  of  this  venerable  pile  having  been  long  in  a 
state  of  almost  absolute  ruin.* 

At  present  its  extreme  length  is  306  feet;  its  breadth  59;  and 
the  length  of  the  cross  aisle  from  north  to  south  is  121  feet. 
All  historians  have  agreed  in  atlrtbuling  its  first  foundati^jn  to 
FaulinuSy  archbishop  of  York,  who  was  sent  by  Pope  Gregory* 
by  the  advice  of  Sl  Augustine,  in  order  to  establish  Christianity 
tn  this  island.  This  was  in  627,  on  the  Easter  day  in  which 
year,  he  baptized  Edwin  the  Great,  king  of  Norihumberland^ 
with  his  whole  court  at  York;  in  which  conversion,  however^ 
Vol.  Xn,  R  the 

*  Toward*  Bccompltshing  tbii  praise  worthy  design,  CaX*  £^r«  jet  •  fiiuni* 
5cetit  cxumple  by  ^ubscrihmg  1001.;  many  others  have  come  forward  h«nd* 
lorocly ;  %nd  the  dcAn  «nd  chapter  baTing  contribalsd  Urgf ]jr«  flT«rj  tjterupa 
M  now  milking  Co  complete  tbt  design. 


1258 


^KOTTIKOBAMSBIRS. 


Ihe  saint  seems  to  have  been  much  asslstetl  by  the  queen  Ethel* 
burga>  daughter  of  Ebauld  king  of  Kent^  wlio  bad  been  already 
converted. 

During  a  succession  ofages*  untit  the  dissolutioUp  this  church 
had  been  encouraged  and  endowed  by  the  liberality  of  bulh 
Jiionarchsand  nobles,  and  protected  by  the  decnees  ofpopestaud 
the  regulations t>f  various  prelates;  and  it  is  suid  by  Mr,  Hasl^lL 
thiLt  scarce  a  person  was  advanced  to  the  see  of  York  that  did  not 
render  it  more  independent  on  his  pronioiion,  whilst  its  oi»n 
members  always  manifested  their  attention  by  some  augnte^- 
tat  lull  af  its  re  venues  J  whenever  they  I  tad  been  long  in  the  en- 
joyment of  their  benefices.  In  the  early  part  of  Henry's  relgu^ 
its  charities  were  dissolredj  and  that  order  of  its  priests  esc* 
pelled;  and  soon  after,  it  shared  in  the  general  wreck  of  coUe» 
giate  foundations.  It  was«  notwithstanding,  declared  by  act  of 
Parliament  in  Henry's  ^4th  year  (IM2)  to  be  the  mother  church 
of  Nottiiigliam£»hire;  a  favour  which  it  owed«  partly  to  Crau* 
mer,  and  partly  to  the  intercessions  of  the  gentry  of  the  county. 
In  Edward's  reign  the  chapter  was  dissolved  and  granted  to  the 
Duke  of  Northumberland,  but  restored  by  Mary  to  the  arch* 
bishop  and  chapter,  in  whose  hands  the  property  still  remains. 
and  queen  Elizabeth,  in  her  27th  yirar^  ordained  a  new  code  of 
laws,  %vhich,  with  some  occasional  decrees  of  diiFerent  arch-» 
bishops,  form  its  present  municipal  law*. 

It  suiFered  much  in  ihe  civil  wars,  being  se(|uestrated^  bu& 
afler wards  restored ;  but  it  ha'*  not  even  yet  recovered  the 
damages  done  by  CnMnwelTt!  troops,  who  converted  it  into  a 
stable  for  their  horses,  broke  down  the  monuments^  and  ran* 
sacked  the  graves  of  the  dead  for  lead  and  other  valuables. 
'Even  as  late  as  1703,  some  of  the  iron  rings,  driven  into  the 
walls  to  fasten  ihe  horses  to,  were  still  in  o^tistence.  It  was 
also  damaged  considmably  by  being  set  on  iire  by  lightning  on 
ihe  5th  of  Nov.  171  L 

Cenerally  speaking,  this  great  mass  of  building  hui>  ^u^^Kuuevl 
little  alteration,  except  in  some  of  the  windows,  whose  Siixoa 

aicbei 


260 


NOTTIKGBAMSniRE* 


and  tnuch  tracery*  and  even  the  battlements  area  departure 
from  the  original  Saxon  design* 

The  north  side'is  most  strictly  Saxon ;  having  Btc  stories,  witJi 
breaks  or  pilasters  between  the  windows;  and  even  the  upper 
row  of  windows  are  circular:  the  elevation  terminates  with  a 
plain  parapet^  and  the  porch  assimilates  to  the  grand  de- 
sign. 

On  entering  at  the  western  door,  the  visitor  is  much  struck 
with  the  extreme  similarity  of  the  interior  to  Rochester  Calhe* 
dral;  but  be  soon  leaves  the  plainness  of  Saxon  architecture, 
fdr  all  the  richness  and  elegance  of  the  meridian  pride  of  Gothic 
architecture  of  the  I4th  century,  displayed  in  the  Screen  at  tbc 
entrance  of  the  choir.  This  has,  in  diiTerent  parts,  large  arched 
openings  with  recesses,  the  arches  bordered  by  pediment  Enisb* 
ing  with  entablatures;  and  the  whole  made  completely  similar 
on  both  sides.  The  interior  of  the  screen,  however,  composes  a 
kind  of  cloyster  of  three  divisions,  full  of  the  richest  and  tnosi 
delightful  tracery*  This  cloyster  work  presents  an  e&traordl* 
nary  mode  of  geometrical  support  in  the  groins,  which,  thoogli 
on  a  miniature  scale,  forms  an  incontestable  proof  of  the  ginl 
skill  in  roofing  and  in  arching  of  the  Gothic  architects;  fi>r 
there  are  no  spandrils  to  the  ribs,  *'  they  being  left  to  seek  their 
pointed  (lighti  independent  of  any  such  seeming  assistance  ;  in 
the  diagonal  line  behind  the  ribs  there  is  open  tracery  filling 
in  that  narrow  space ;  nothing  can  exceed  the  lightness,  and  it 
may  be  said,  the  magic  touch  of  these  vaulted  bows/*  Through- 
out the  whole  of  this  sp  lend  id  work,  the  minutiae  of  mouldings  and 
arnaments  are  delicaLeand  rich  to  excess;  "  in  fine,  this  screen 
may  be  held  as  one  of  the  gems  of  ecclesiastical  decoration  in  this 
part  of  the  north :  a  jewel  most  worthy  to  be  prized,  and  by  these 
men  of  taste  and  discernment  who  have,  to  the  high  honour  of 
this  church,  so  long  kept  it  unsullied  and  free  from  all  diJapi* 
datjon,  or  more  fatal  improvement.  In  the  renovation  of  tiiis 
work^  great  pains  have  been  taken  not  only  to  presenre  its 

beautitSf 


KOTTlKOItAMSUlIlK* 


26i 


beauties  but  to  restore  as  much  of  its  ancient  splendour  as  pos* 
sible  ;  and  great  Judgement  seems  displayed  iii  the  placing  ihe 
names,  or  rather  titles,  of  the  various  incumbents  over  their 
stalls,  which  has  the  effect  of  carrying  the  mind  of  the  spec- 
tator back  to  the  earliest  times.  The  tourist  is  now  led  into 
the  avenue  extenrUng  to  the  Chapter  Houses  in  whicli  the  part 
below  the  tvtndows  consists  of  recesses  mth  columns  and 
arches  enriched  with  heads  in  ancient  costume,  adding  much  to 
I  he  beauty  of  the  pointed  windows  with  their  pleading  tracery, 
and  the  rich  light  groins  of  the  roof.  With  respect  to  the  <rx* 
i€rior  of  the  Chapter  House,  Mr.  Hastall  very  justly  observes 
that  it  does  not  boast  a  profusion  of  ornament,  though  its  battle* 
ments  and  butt  revises  are  light  and  well  finished,  and  in  a  good 
laste.  Its  interior  indeed  is  much  superior «  and  the  arch  of  en* 
trance  has  always  arrested  the  attention  of  visitors,  being  superior 
perhaps  to  any  thing  else  of  the  kind  in  the  kingdom.  The 
double  entrance  is  indeed  rt^plete  with  grace  ^  its  ornaments  are 
many«  and  the  running  foliage  of  vines  and  other  plants  is  in 
a  style  of  alto  relief  incredibly  rich  and  airy**  The  roof  is  of 
stone  work^  and^  though  not  so  richly  ornamented  as  in  other 
parts,  is  yet  light,  simple^  and  elegant.  In  the  wall  are  many 
niches  forming  the  stalls  extending  quite  round  the  room, 
separated  from  each  other  by  sinall  cylindrical  columns*  The 
variety  in  the  devices  which  ornament  these  niches  is  extreme ; 
as  no  two  of  them  are  alike.  The  windows  form  fme  specimens 
of  the  later  Gothic^  but  their  sainted  and  armorial  glass  ha^i 
long  been  destroyed.  It  is  to  be  hoped,  however,  that  the  in* 
troduction  of  modern  stained  glass  will  here  once  more 
"  Teach  light  to  couiiterfett  a  gloom  I" 
In  abort,  as  it  has  been  well  observed,  altogether  the  columns, 
R  3  arches, 

♦  Tbe  wfitcT  of  Pursuits  of  ArchitPduntl  Innovation,  is  of  opmiun,  from 
tbe  co«tURic  of  tbe  headi,  Uc.  being  «  king  tnd  queen,  a  Inshup,  ludjes  of 
▼srioos  ranks,  Aec.  ib&t  this  psrt  is  of  tbe  age  of  Henry  tbe  second  ;  but  Mr. 
Rastallrefen  the  whoJe  to  the  reign  of  Edward  tbe  tbird,  wbtlit  be  attribntfK 
the  choir  to  that  of  Edward  the  Lrn, 


2fl2 


irOTTlNGHAlfSRlRA. 


arches^  galleries,  windows,  groins*  mouldingSi  and  ornamenU^ 
both  of  the  exterior  and  interior,  are  truly  genuine,  and  full  of 
that  infinite  varitjty  that  particularly  characterises,  and  which 
perhaps  gives  to  Southwell  a  celebrity  not  possesised  by  any 
other  simitar  fabric. 

Carter,  in  his  work  on  Ant  iunt  Sculpture,  has  given  many 
gpccimens  from  this  church,  principally  illustrative  of  antique 
head  dresses.  He  thinks  the  very  ancient  hieroglyphical  sculp- 
ture (of  a  roan  drawing  the  teeth  of  a  lion,  acconipanted  by  a 
lambj  and  angel,  and  a  dragon^  which  is  placed  over  the  door- 
way leading  to  the  belfry)  alludes  to  David  whilst  keeping 
his  6]ither^s  sheep ;  hut  Mr.  Rastall  considers  it  as  typical  of 
Christ,  and  supposes  it  to  be  the  most  ancient  specimen  of  Saxon 
sculpture  in  existence  in  this  kingdom^  perhaps  even  ante- 
cedent to  the  building  of  the  church  J 

The  Tombs  h«re  are  not  very  numerous;  and  seemed  of  so 
litcle  consequence  to  Thoroton,  that  he  has  not  given  a  single 
engraving  of  them*  The  oldest  is  in  the  north  aisle,  and  is  es* 
actly  in  the  shape  of  a  modern  coiBn,  under  a  circular  arch; 
there  are  also  several  altar  tombs;  but  the  brasses  have  been 
stolen,  the  figures  mutilated,  and  in  some  instances  destroyed. 
The  most  worthy  of  notice  is  that  of  archbishop  Sandys  within 
the  mils  near  to  the  altar.  It  is  a  large  alabaster  altar  tomb  wiih 
bis  effigies  reclining  upon  k,  and  having  on  the  front  his  widow 
and  nine  children  kneeling,  with  a  Latin  epitaph  at  one  end. 

In  the  Churchwards  was  a  College  for  the  chauntry  priests,, 
of  which  there  are  some  remains;  but  the  Vicarage,  which  once 
possessed  some  curious  carvings,  was  taken  down  in  1780* 

From  the  wells  in  this  churchyard,  and  others,  this  modem 
name  is  said  to  have  ansen-  On  the  right  of  the  cloystcr  wa* 
the  Holif  Weill  and  the  Lad/s  well  was  also  within  the  conse- 
crated ground,  but  filled  up  in  conseqijcnce  of  a  clergyman 
bfiing  drowned  in  it  in  a  dark  night,* 

Many 

•  St.  Catharine's  Well  Is  in  VWsMliorpc,  and  b  celebrotcd  for  rhconiJilio 
euret.  The  Seuih  vttU^  called  the  hordes  well,  b  aLkjuI  l^alf  a  mile  S.  E.  froiA 
the  tvwu. 


KCrrTrKOHAMSHlR«# 


26$ 


h^ve  been  tnade    here  in  digging;  and 


Many  discoveries 
Peck,  in  his  Desiderata  Curiosa  (Book  6,)  gives  an  account  of  a 
body  being  found  in  the  south  aisle  dressed  in  cloth  uf  silver 
tissue  i  with  leather  boats,  a  wand  by  hii^  side,  and  on  his  breast 
something  like  a  silver  cup  with  an  acorn  or  bunch  of  leaves  on 
its  top.  Some  have  supposed  him  to  be  one  of  the  family  of 
Caur  ;  bat  Mr.  Gough  considers  him  as  a  Reiigious  from  the 
chalice  and  crozier.  His  skuli  was  thin  and  very  transparent ; 
and  his  teeth  w^re  all  sound,  and  taken  away  by  the  spectators; 
even  the  stitciiing  of  the  boots  was  in  preservation,  though  the 
leather  tore  like  paper. 

In  the  Britiiih  iVluseum*  is  a  grant  by  Elizabuth  in  the  year 
1585,  which  enumerates  the  foundation  and  statutes  by  Henry 
the   eighth  and   Mary;  and  then   enacu  that   all  vicars  and 
ministers  of  this  churrh^  three  times  per  day,  shall  assemble 
at  such   hourji  as  the   archbishop  ahall  appoint,  decently  ami 
reverently  in  the  chotr,  each  in  his  station  and  place^  and  each 
in  his  choral   habit;  also  that  the  Scripture  shall  be  preached 
every  dominical  day  or  festival ;  that  if  any  prebeudary  shall 
neglect  hit:  duty,  he  shall  forfeit  ten  shillings  vi^hich  shall  be 
given  to  the  person  who  supplies  his  place,  or  if  no  such  person^ 
then    to  tlie   poor  of  the    town  of  Southwell;  the  vicars  and 
singers,  to  forfeit  a  penny  to  be  divided  amongst  the  others; 
that  the  choir  service  shall  be  performed  by  six  skiikd  in  music, 
and  by  six   iuaii  acted  m  the  same.     *'  Moreover  if  any  canon, 
or  any  other  member  of  the  church,  shall  be  convicted  either 
of   heresy   agaiiisi   the    law  of    God,  or  of  treason,   simony, 
usury,  perjury,  knowntheft,  voluntary  homicide,  adultery,  form- 
cationj  ur  dilapidation  of  the  goods  of  the  church,  by  twocompe. 
tent  witnesses,  or  by  his  ownconfei^sion,  or  by  the  notoriety  of 
the  fact,  he  shall  without  delay  be   deprived  ol'  his  canunry> 
prebend,  or  whatever  place  he  may  hold  in  the  church  ;*'  and  it 
seems  that,  in  days  of  Catholicism,  the  vicars  were  forbidden  to 
have  ajiy  female  servants,  but  those  whose  ages  exempted  them 

R  4  from 

*  Ajscough'i  Ctttukgue,  •I934i  ** 


8^  VQXTUIOBLAlCSHi&ll. 

from  all  siupicion  of  amorpua  inclination.  Begulationa  so 
strict  could  not  &il  of  producing.a  decent  and  orderly  behaTioar 
in  tbase,  almost  monastic,  institutions ;  nay,  were  perhapa 
▼ery  necessary,  if  we  are  to  belie?e  all  the  stories  of  monkisli 
knavery  and  wickedness  so  often  bandied  about  at  the  time  of 
the  Reformation.  But  scandal  was  even  busy  in  the  I7tb  cen« 
tury,  when  one  Gervase  Lee  was  fined  in  the  Star  chamber  for 
ar libel  contained  in  a  ballad,  which  Mr.  Rastall  has  preserved; 
one  stanza  of  which  runs  thus  ; 

"Agtinthey  hold  of  their  Virgin  Mary 

Ecee  qmm  bonnm  tit  cohabiture: 

And  neither  keep  bakehoQse,  brewbouse,  nor  dairy. 

Nor  any  residencej  nor  tell  qs  Quarel" 


The  whole  EstabUshmcntnoiw  consists  of  fix/fcn  prebendaries* 
or  caoona  holding  prebends^  <t>  vicars  choral,  orgamt,njr  sing* 
iag  men,  ti»  choristers,  and  ssr  boys  as  probationers,  a  regis* 
tinr  to  the  diapter,  a  treasurer,  auditor,  verger,  &c. 

Hera  also  are  two  annual  iytiedi,  at  which  all  the  Netting* 
hamshire  clergy  afMend*;  and  over  which  a  certain  number  of 
the  prebendaries  and  other  clergymen  are  nominated  by  the 
archbishop  of  York  to  preside. 

The  civil  government  is  distinct  from  that  of  the  county  in 
general,  and  called  the  '*  Soke  of  Southwell  cum  Scrooby/' 
Adjoining  to  the  church  is  a  Free  school  under  the  care  of  the 
chapter,  the  master  of  which  is  chosen  by  them,  but  must  be 
approved  by  the  archbishop. 

There  are  also  two  fellowships  and  two  scholarships  in  St. 
John's  College,  Cambridge,  to  be  presented  by  the  master  and 
fellows  of  that  college  to  such  persons  as  they  shall  think 
proper,  who  have  been  choristers  of  Southwell.  These  were 
founded  by  Dr.  Keton,  canon  of  Salisbury,  in  the  reign  of  Henry 
the  eighth. 

With  respect  to  the  Psebcnds,  there  were  ten  existing  before 
the  Conc^uest :  the  most  ancient  are  the  three  belonging  to 

JVonccrt 


trOTTtHCUAUSHIRE. 


SfiS 


K       Its 
I         fr<] 


NQrw€lls  consisting  of  A'brujc//  Overall,  Palace  kalh  aoil  Tenia 
Parf  ;  next  come  Normanion,  a  jiinall  haniJet  in  the  vicinity; 
Ox/on    Prima   and   Secunda ;    IVodborough ;    North  and   iSaitM 

uskham;  and  6«cri5/a,  a  local  and  kind  of  official  prebend^ 
its  revenues,  in  addition  to  some  lands  in  SouthvrelU  arising 
from  the  peiitecostal  cQ'erings. 

The  SIX  established  since  the  Conquest  are  Beckmgham,  Le* 
pcrion^  Dunham,  Halloughton  or  Hawton,  Ramplon,  and  Eaton* 
or  Idleton,  which  last  was  founded  in  1289,  The  prior  of  Thur- 
garton  alsu  claimed  a  right  to  a  stall  in  the  choir^  superior  Id 
those  of  the  prebendaries^  wbiclt  was  allowed  to  him;  and  is 
still  preserved  with  his  name  on  it.  In  1570,  it  was  ordered 
that  the  Resident  Prebaidary  was  ti>  l*ave  all  the  ty the  pigs,  fitc, 
for  his  household  expense^  with  all  other  profits  of  the  jurisdic- 
tion; and  every  residentiary^  vicar  choral,  or  singing  man* 
being  disposed  to  enter  into  commons  with  himj  was  to  pay 
from  3«,  4i/.  to  2$.  2d.  per  week. 

The  house  (of  modern  erection)   ap^>ointed   for  the  resident 

.prebendary^  is  a  very  handsome  building  at  the  east  end  of  the 

^church^  and  is  worthy  the  most  elegant  domestic  establishment; 

but   iu  1706  it  was  decreed,  as  a  safeguard   of  ecclesiastical 

economy,  that  an  entertainment  of  no  greater  expense  than  3/. 

fihotild  be   provided  by  each  new  prehendary  when  installed  i 

he  was  at  the  same  time  obliged  to  give  2/.  for  the  benefit  of  th& 

.  library.     The  Residence  is  taken  in  regular  rotation. 

The  Aechbisuop's  Palace  situated  on  the  south  side  of  the 
Minster  yard,  within  what  was  once  called  ihe  Little,  or  New 
park,  was  once  an  elegant  building,  according  to  the  ancient 
laste*  The  scite  of  the  mansion  still  belongs  to  the  see;  and 
Thoroton  observes  "  the  archbishop  had  a  very  fair  palace  here 
demolished  in  the  late  rebellion ;  some  think  it  was  built  by 
Cardinal  Wolsey,  and  if  it  were  not,  I  should  guess  at  the  arch^ 
bishops  Bothest  for  they  or  one  of  them  butlded  a  chapel  joy  n* 
ing  to  the  south  wall  of  the  church,  which  by  negligence  in  the 

late 


VOTTtVGITAlIStltRE* 


late  wars  is  now  utterly  ruiaedi  as  is  also  a  very  fine  marble" 
tomb,  &c/* 

Even  in  ruias,  as  Mr.  Kastall  observes,  it  retains  mnch  of  it* 
ancient  grandeur,  shewing  its  original  magnificence  and  extent* 
Jn  the  eastern  wing  were  the  rooms  of  state ;  the  western* 
occupied  by  the  offices?  j  and  the  north  containing  the  chapel, 
atJi!  great  hat!*  which  may  he  smd  to  remain  entire,  though 
much  of  its  antique  beauty  is  destroyed  by  a  modern  fitting  tip*  \ 
a^  a  domestic  residence.  In  this  is  a  room,  lighted  hy  the 
great  west  window  of  the  ancient  haU,  and  appropriated  to  the 
justices  of  the  Soke  for  their  sessions  i  and  the  quadrangle^  once 
surroumled  by  the  offices,  is  now  converted  into  a  pleasanl  and 
romantic  bowling  green. 

The  tuins  are  will  extensive,  with  many  pointed  gaMes, 
Golhic  windows,  and  circular  chimnies  of  the  age  of  Henry 
the  eighth,  ^rll  remaining;  and  being  deeply  overshadowed 
with  ivy,  and  embosomed  in  trees,  they  add  much  to  the  ro- 
mantic beauty  of  South  we!!. 

During  the  civil  war?,  it  was  compleiely  gutted  of  every 

thing  that  was  valuable,  or  nseful ;  and  there  are  still  many  Ira* 

p^itional  stories   respecting  ii»     One  of  these   is   recorded   by 

Thro^bvi  w^ho  <kiys  that,  in  1740,  in  clearing  atvay  the  vaults  of 

this  palace,  thf  iiorkmen  fouml  the  entire  skeleton  of  a  man 

ittanrling  upright,  with  booU  and  spurs  on,  and  some  part  of  his 

[milit^iry  arms  lying  at  his  feet.     Nt;ar  to  this  wa^a  skull  witb 

Ifhe  he:id  nf  an  axe  in  the  cleft,  with  which  it  may  be  supposed 

rtiis  person  was  killed.     This  discovery  has  therefore  given  ad* 

kdtf  ioftal  credit  to  a  local  tradition  that  a  deserter  or  spy  had  been 

riaken  up  in  Southwell,  when  Charles  the  iirst  was  there,  and 

Pfliat  some   of  the  soldiers  had  thrust  him  into  a  vault  or  well 

inhere  he  lost  his  life. 

The  arcljiepiscopal   Parks  were  once  four  in  number;  but 

lliave  bee,n  divided  and  enclosed  since  the  destruction  of  the 

I  palace  in  the  civil  wars*     It  appears  also  that  the  lands  of  the 

fee  were  sold  during  the  usurpation  for  about  iKMK*/*    Duriog 

tboaoJ 


K0TT1KGHAMSHIKK. 


26r 


I 

I 


those  unhappy  times,  Charles  ihe  first  was  often  here;  and,  like 
most  other  placet  at  that  period,  it  ofVen  (fxperiencec)  the  fate 
of  war ;  it  is  said.,  indeed,  that  the  garrison  of  Newark  once  cut 
to  pieces  here  the  greatest  part  of  a  Parliamentariiin  regi- 
ment.* 

The  head  qnnrters  of  the  king  were  sometimes  al  ihc  palace, 
aud  somettmes  at  the  Isn,  particularly  on  the  6lh  of  May  1640* 
when  he  came  here  privately,  and  eurrendered  himself  to  the 
Scotch  commissioners.  Peck  in  his  Desiderata,  Vol.  II.  Book 
9,  gives  {from  Rushworili)  u  whining  letter  from  the  Scotch 
army,  denying  that  the  king  had  made  terms;  asserting  that  he 
was  tor  some  days  in  their  army  without  their  knowing  him  f 
talking  much  of  a  witness  in  Heaven, and  of  the  Covenant;  and 
almost  saying  in  plain  termsj  *'  now  that  we  have  him^  what 
wiil  yon  give  for  him,"? 

The  apartment  in  which  the  king  dined  that  day  is  still  in 
existence,  and  nearly  in  its  original  state*  It  is  on  thti  south 
side,  or  left  hand  of  the  gateway  of  the  Saracen's  Head  at  the 
upper  part  of  the  churchyard;  the  removal  of  which  sign,  some 
time  ago,  discovered  the  old  one  of  the  King's  Amis  cut  in 
atone,  but  which  heing  probably  unfashionable  in  the  days  of 
Reptihlicanism  had  been  superseded,  or  rather  covered,  by  that 
which  now  exists.  A  little  before  the  king's  death,  this  same 
apartment  was  used  by  Cromwell  when  he  was  sent  to  oppose 
tht:  northern  army ;  the  palace  having  been  rendered  unfit  for 
hiii  reception,  by  the  soldiers  who  had  attended  the  commit 
sioners  haying  stripped  all  the  lead  ofiHhe  roof, 

A  story  is  current  in  the  town,  aj^d  mentioned  by  Throsby, 
of  the  unfortunate  monarch  at  one  of  his  visits  here  during  the 
decline  of  his  afliiirs^  which  importSj  that  walking  about  the  town 

and 


•  A  Mr.  Cludtl  was  ut  tljut  tJnjc  a  confpicuDUs  cliwactcf  lierc,  and  his  in- 
fluence great  as  a  PuTliaiULiiUry  parlizan  A  cotcomical  servant  of  liii 
b«ing  »cnt  to  London  to  give  *ume  iiit'ormalion  reipeciiiig  tlic  approuch  of  the 
rojftl  army,  he  wfts*iskcd  "How  nialtef*  went  on  in  Noitrngbimstiire'*' 
To  wliich  he  replied,  *•  Very  ^di!  I  arid  my  itiaaier  mlo^aU  there  III*' 


KOTtlMGHAMSHlRE. 


fend  being  unknown^  he  entered  the  shop  of  one  htn,  a  fanaiic 
tioemaker,  whom  he  desired  lo  take  his  measure  for  a  pair  €yi 
[lors:  but  Lee  after  some  littie  hesitation  refused  to  perform 
[lis  oQice,  saying  that  he  was  the  customer  whom  he  had  seen 
ill  a  dream  the  preceding  night,  and  of  whom  be  had  beea 
warned^  as  a  man  derot^d  to  destructionj  being  told  at  the  fame 
time  that  those  who  worked  for  him  would  never  ihrne! 
Throsby  gives  a  Mr*  Savage  as  the  narrator  of  the  tate;  but  we 
imagine  it  is  like  many  others  told  after  the  ^ivents  hav  e  taken 
place. 

Southwell  cannot  be  said  to  possess  any  Trade;  but  its 
Market,  held  on  a  Saturday,  is  one  of  the  best  in  the  county. 
It  also  has  a  Fair  on  Whitmonday^  for  horses,  horned  cattle, 
sheep,  and  roerchandiae. 

A  Plbljc  Walk  or  parade  has  been  made  on  the  north  side 
of  the  churchyard  in  17S4.  This  is  commodious,  well  shaded 
from  ihe  weather  on  every  side,  extending  the  whole  length  of 
the  churchyard,  and  pleasingly  planted  with  trees  and  shrubs; 
hut  we  cannot  help  thinking  that  a  spot  for  cheerful  and  loqua- 
cious rambling  might  be  found  more  appropriate  than  the  som* 
bre  purlieus  of  decaying  mortality. 

The  County  Buidewell  is  used  as  a  prison  (or  the  Tarious  . 
inanors  belonging  to  the  archbishopric,  within  the  county*  This  , 
edifice  was  Hist  erected  in  IG^b;  and  many  additions,  together 
with  the  surrouttding  walls,  were  built  in  1787.  Its  situation  is 
airy  and  healihrui,  upon  the  decline  of  a  gentle  hill,  and  close 
10  the  Burgage  Green,  which  is  opposite  to  the  entrance.  lu 
this  place  means  have  been  judiciously  taken  lo  separate  the 
various  descriptions  of  ofTenders:  and  both  in  appearance  and 
arrangement  it  bears  a  miniature  resemblance  to  the  Coldbath 
Fields  prison  of  the  metropolisi  but  a  late  writer  complaiiii* 
much  of  some  of  the  interior  regulations,^  the  separation  of 
oU'enders  being  in  the  following  manner^  males,  for  petty  of- 

fcnceSf 

*  tti  th«  Getitt.  Mag.  Vol.  76,  page  106,  maj  be  teen  a  completo  ichncifrs* 
pkicbl  dcftcriptioD  qI  this  pliice,  by  Mr.  Nield« 


KaTTIKOHAMSIIIftlS, 


169 


I 

I 
I 


fences,  one  rootn  and  a  small  court-yard ;  vagranta ,  a  coart-yard, 
a  day  and  sleeping  mom  for  males*  and  others  for  female*; 
faulty  servants,  a  court-yard  and  apartments;  three  solitary 
cells,  with  iron  gratings  ovtT  the  doors,  "  thjotigh  which  those 
in  solitary  confinement  are  enabled  to  9ee  and  converse  witfi 
the  female  felons  in  their  chambers  or  on  the  steps/*  Wheti 
Mr.  Nield  wrote,  an  arrangement  also  existed^  which  has  since 
been  in  some  measure  remedied  ;  he  aays,  thai  in  the  floor  of  the 
felon's  dayroom  there  **  is  a  trapdoor,  on  opening  which  you 
descend  by  ten  steps  into  a  loathsome  hole  or  dungeon,  about 
14  feet  by  10,  with  three  wooden  bedsteads,  on  which  lay  some 
short  dirty  straw,  and  pieces,  or  bits  of  dirty  ragged  rugs*  The 
only  ventilation  or  glimmering  light  this  miserable  place  re- 
ceives, is  through  an  iron  grating,  two  feet  ten  by  only  eight 
inches,  and  level  with  the  court:  in  this  damp  and  loathsome 
dungeon  seven  of  the  prisoners  heavily  ironed  sleep  every 
night/*  In  repeating  these  animadversions*  we  mean  not 
wantonljf  to  advocate  the  cause  of  the  guilty;  but  surely  the 
spirit*  if  not  the  leUer,  of  English  law  requires  not  such  addi- 
tional punishment  to  be  inflicted  even  upon  contictSs  That 
loathsome  dungeons  were  formerly  the  prisons  of  the  aecusedt  as 
well  as  of  the  condemned,  is  but  too  true;  and  it  is  no  doubt 
proper  that  prisons,  in  aildition  to  the  punishment  of  confine* 
menti  should  make  their  inhabitants  both  yre/ and  £  A  iitJ^:  but 
surely  this  may  always  be  done  with  a  due  regard  to  health  and 
personal  cleanliness;  ont:  of  which  is  a  blessing,  and  the  other  a 
virtue  which  forms  the  comer  stone  of  the  physical  and  moral 
welfare  of  human  nature. 

The  Civil  GovERNMEffT  of  Southivell  may  be  called  amphi- 
bious, being  divided  between  the  clergy  and  laity ;  the  preben- 
dage  being  under  the  jurisdiction  of  the  one,  and  the  burgage 
subject  to  the  other.  It  is  thus  the  head  of  a  peculiar  jurisdic- 
tion, both  civil  and  ecclesiastical;  twenty  towns,  (or  vtlbges) 
being  within  its  liberty,  or  civil  limits,  for  which  a  sessions  of 
die  peace  is  hdd,  indepen<lent  of  the  county;  whilst  the  eccle* 
^^  slaslical 


2T0 


HOTttHGHAMStllBB. 


stasiical  extend  over  tweaty-eighu  T*hc  civil  administmtioii  k 
held  at  Southwell  and  at  Scrooby,  by  the  justicesp  nomtQated 
by  the  archbishop,  but  acting  under  a  commission  from  the 
crown ;  and  the  Chapter  m  the  person  of  their  vicar  general  exer- 
cise all  episcopal  functions  within  the  peculiar^  except  ordina- 
tion and  confirmation. 

Upton  is  a  handsome  village  near  Southwell,  with  a  small 
Gothic  church  dedicated  to  St.  Peter.  Throsby  telU  us  that  hi 
his  time,  the  village  just  contained  as  many  inhabitants  as  there 
are  days  in  the  year;  but  Leap  year  must  surely  have  made 
some  difTerence  in  this  very  nice  calculation  !  The  village  con 
shU  principally  of  farm  houses,  but  a  fit&rcb  manufactory 
been  some  time  estabh'shed.  Some  land  had  been  trilled  h 
in  perpetuity,  for  the  purpose  of  repairing  the  church,  the 
balance  of  annual  prtjfit  to  be  given  to  the  poor  st>ldiers 
travelling  through,  and  any  overbalance  to  be  at  the  dtsicretton 
of  the  inhabitants.  By  this  means  (the  lands  being  urorth 
about  twenty  pounds  per  annum)  the  church  is  l<ept  in  good 
order;  but  any  trifling  balances  are  now  employed  to  find  mi* 
litia  men,  and  to  case  ihe  paristi  rates,  | 

tvcRMANTOK  is  a  parish  close  to  Southwell;  and  here  Th<l^^fl 
roton  tells  us  was  an  ancient  capital  messuage,  the  scat  of  the^^ 
Hunts,  merchants  of  the  staple  in  Nottingham  in  the  reign  of 
Edward  tiie  fo^irth,  since  which  period,  theCariwrighls  built  ft 
house  of  brick  and  stone.  Edingley  village  or  chapelry  is  in  the 
parish,  and  is  worthy  notice  far  its  small  but  ancient  chapel 
with  curious  ifiigzag  ornaments  over  the  western  entrance. 
Anotljer  chipel  is  now  occupied  as  a  barn. 

WiNCKBouitNF,  now  the  seat  of  P.  Pegge  Burnellj  Ewj.  ha 
long  been  the  property  of  that  family^  who  built  the  hallhouf 
It  was  anciently  iho  property  of  the  priory  of  St»  John  of  Jeru- 
salem.    The  chiipel   near   tfie    house   has  a   very  conspicuous 
tower*  and  contains  several  monuments  of  the  Burnells,  one  ah 
armed  knii^hti  but  mostly  illegible  except  a  very  modern  one  for 

P'Arry  Burneil.  Esq.  in  1772, 

t  KersM 


KOTTIITGHAMSHIRE. 


m 


Kcrmll  13  anerely  noticed  here  as  having  once  had  a  Quaker's 
xn^^eting^  and  bury  lug  ground^  but  the  former  has  long  been 
abandoned. 

£yk£Ring  Vii^LAGE  IS  nearly  a  mile  in  lengthy  but  not  ctjttalljf 
pOj>ulous,  as  its  habitations  are  nmch  scattered.  The  rectory  is 
an  elegant  buildings  lor  its  sixt^  with  very  bandsiome  pleasure 
grounds,  and  the  church  is  respectable.  There  is  great  reason  to 
believe  that  this  was  the  residence  of  that  family  from  whicti 
sprung  Will  Scarlet  the  iViend  of  Robin  Hood ;  for  abotit  that 
|jerioclj  Robert  Scarlet  and  Beatrix  hi*  wife  gave  lands  here  to 
the  monks  of  Ruflord  abbey,  for  which  the  monks  in  return 
gave  him  a  she  goalj  and  to  his  wife  a  cow!  tbijj^  however^  is 
i\\^  first  and  last  instance  we  have  ever  met  with  of  monk*  giv- 
ing any  thing  in  this  world,  though  very  prodigal  t>f  the  next! 

Turning  to  the  southward,  we  now  coine  to  Kiutlikcton 
Hall,  the  seat  of  Mrs,  Whethani,  a  largt*  modern  building  of 
three  stories^  with  tv\o  projectitig  (octagonal  wings  tower 
fusliionj  and  the  whole  topped  with  battlements.  It  stands 
near  the  village,  and  has  a  handsome  tawn  with  an  extensive 
piece  of  water  in  front,  finely  diversified  by  rising  swcUs.  The 
village  is  hut  small^  and  is  situated  on  tht  Mansfield  road^  the 
church,  dedicated  to  St.  Ssviihin,  has  a  large  chancel,  and  sonie 
relics  of  old  monumental  stones  and  crosses. 

Near  thia  is  Hcigrave^  ancienily  a  park,  with  evident  vci^ 
tigcs  of  a  Roman  encampment  placed  on  a  hdl.  In  ^ome  spots^ 
the  ditch  and  vallum  may  still  be  iraced>  but  the  intermediate 
lines  havcj  been  conipleLely  destroyed  by  the  plough*  About 
three  miles  south-west  from  this,  at  Combe's  farm  to  the  left  of 
the  Mansfield  road^  is  another,  of  which  a  drawing  may  be  seen 
in  the  8th  volume  of  Archajulogia.  It  commands  a  most  extei|- 
sive  view  over  the  forest,  and  that  indefatigable  antitjuary 
Major  Rijoke,  very  justly  observes  that  from  this,  and  otiiers, 
we  have  great  reason  to  admire  the  judgementof  the  Rotnans  in 
their  choice  of  these  situations^  as  they  not  only  have  dear 
prospects  over  tbe  surrounding  country,  but  are  so  situated,  that 

iuteltigence 


S/8  ir^TtivoBAiriniES. 

intelligence  might  always  be  conreyed  by  signals.  Mr«  Sas- 
iall  is  of  opinion  that  these  works  are  not  Roman ;  it  is  true  that 
they  may  have  originally  been  British ;  but  that  they  were  also 
^C-Roman  occnpancy  is  proved  by  the  discovery  of  the  coins 
and  other  antiquities. 

Haiam  is  a  small  village,  with  some  rude  paintings  in  its 
church  windows.  Throsby  has  given  some  drawings  of  these ; 
and,  as  they  are  nothing  more  than  Adam  digging  and  Eve 
spinning,  they  almost  tempt  us  to  date  their  origin  from  an 
older  period  than  the  introduction  of  armorial  blazonry  npon 
glass  in  this  kingdom. 

Hallo  UGRTON,  or  Hawton,  was  remarkable  for  an  ancient 
mansion  house  upon  the  prebendal  estate,  which  Mr.  Rastall 
says  was  very  dark  and  gloomy,  with  an  appearance  of  consi- 
derable antiqui^,  and  situated  within  a  very  few  yards  of  the 
parish  church.  It  was,  upon  the  whole,  not  unlike  many  of  the 
remains  of  old  monasteries  that  have  been  continued  to  our  day ; 
and  this  sort  of  sombrous  grandeur  may  possibly  have  given  rise 
to  the  report  of  its  having  once  belonged  to  a  monastic  society. 
Great  alterations  have  indeed  lately  taken  place;  but  Throsby 
records  that  during  the  repair,  in  taking  up  the  kitchen  floor, 
there  was  found  a  large  stone  about  the  size  of  a  mill  stone, 
under  which  was  a  large  key  ;  and  which  was  supposed  to  have 
been  left  there  by  design.  Some  time  after,  this  place  was 
more  minutely  examined,  and  it  proved  to  be  the  mouth  of  a 
cavity,  enclosed  by  a  circular  wall,  and  traced  for  some  dis- 
tance by  the  workmen  until  their  further  search  was  inter- 
rupted by  a  quantity  of  water.  '  He  adds,  that  there  was  a  tra- 
dition in  Southwell,  of  a  subterraneous  passage  from  this  place  to 
Thurgarton ;  and  that  in  taking  down  a  stack  of  chimnies  in  this 
house,  there  was  Found  in  the  middle  of  them  a  large  recess,  in 
which  were  many  human  skeletons  quite  entire  and  uncovered 
with  earth,  chiefly  those  of  children !  We  will  not  vouch  for 
the  truth  of  these  discoveries;  but,  if  correct,  they  seem  not  in- 
9  consistent 


KOTTIKOIIAMSntllX. 


§73 


consistent  with  the  old  tradition  of  a  relighm  foundation,  as 
some  of  these  were  perhaps  too  often  misnamed. 

EperstoH  owe«  much  of  its  present  comfort  and  respeclabiiity 
to  the  fostering  care  of  the  late  Earl  Howe.  It  has  a  tiled  roofed 
church  with  ^  spire^  dedicated  to  the  Holy  Cross:  here  are 
some  curious  old  monomental  stones  f  but  they  have  been  long 
worn  by  the  feet  of  departed  generations,  arc  now  covered  with 
nettles,  and  coated  with  moss.  This  may  have  been  a  small 
Koman  station,  as  a  number  of  coins  of  ibal  people  were  found 
here  in  1776, 

WooDBOROuGti,  the  next  parish^  i^  a  cheerftil.  populous,  vil- 
lage, with  a  church  dedicated  to  St.  Swithin,  built  on  an  ex- 
tensive scale,  and  now  pos^essin^many  vestiges  of  ancient  mag- 
nificence, particularly  ifi  tlie  windows  of  the  chancel,  wliere 
are  still  some  fragment  of  armorial  glass  containing  the  inter- 
marriages of  the  Strelley^,  In  the  chancel  are  also  !^ome 
brasses  for  the  family  of  Bainbrigge*  the  present  owners*  The 
family  seat  is  an  old  plain  hall,  in  which  resides  Mrs.  Bain- 
biigge,  a  widow  lady,  long  remarkable  for  her  very  extraor- 
dinary benevolence,  and  lately  particularly  so  for  her  generous 
benefaction  of  1000/.  to  the  General  Ilospitai  of  Nottingham. 
Wood  borough  is  one  of  the  prebends  of  Southwell. 

"  About  tliree  miles  northward  from  Colwick,  is  the  town  of 
B^rion,  called  Barton  Fan,  (now  Burton  Joyce,)  upon  the 
bank  of  the  river  Trent,  wherein  were  in  times  past  two  auncient 
houses  of  two  auncient  gentlemen,  one  of  Forz,  the  other  of  Byr- 
ton.  That  ofForz,  Bryan  Stapleton,  Esq.  late  held,  and  lokl  it 
to  Sir  Tho.  Stanhope;  the  heiress  of  Byrton  was  marry ed  to 
Mcynell  and  Wood.  Meynell  now  possesses  his;  but  Wood's 
heir  sold  his  part,  &c/**  The  village  is  but  small,  and  belongs 
entirely  to  the  CMiesterHeld  family  ;  and  the  church  contains 
several  ancient  tombs,  and  armorial  glass,  of  the  families  of 
Frecbeville*  Jors,   Roose,  Stapleton^    8tc*     At  Bulcote,  in  tht 

Vol*  XIL  S  parish, 

•  ITirLCt^lLSeS, 


274 


VOTTlVGUAUSHimi. 


parish,  &  boarding  school  for  young  geuUemen  haa  long  pos- 
sessed considerable  reputation. 

GuNTfioHPE  h-dd  formerly  a  cba()e1,  now  converted  into  a 
blacksmith's  shop :  here  also  is  a  ferry  over  the  Trent.  In  the 
tame  vicinity  is  Hoverincham,  which  Sir  F,  Eden,  in  1794,  de- 
signates as  containing  a  few  slocking  weavers,  but  principally 
agriculturists,  chiefiy  of  tb«  established  church;  wilh  two  ale- 
houses and  one  friendly  society.  Sir  Richard  Suttoti,  to  whom 
ibe  manor  came  by  purchase*  was  at  considerable  expense ia 
repairing  the  small  church,  which  has  an  ancient  Saxon  porch 
with  a  very  curious  bas  relief  of  the  patron  saint,  Michael  the 
archangel,  and  the  dragon.  A  modern  buttress,  found  neces- 
sary at  the  late  repair,  unfortunately  conceals  much  of  this 
specimen  of  ancient  sculpture ;  but  enough  is  still  visible  to 
gratify  the  antiquary* 

Gonalston  h  principally  remarkable  for  its  ancient  foundation 
in  a  part  of  the  parish  called  Bradebudk.  Tanner  says  thai 
*'  William  Heri^,  temp.  Henry  ti,  built  here  an  hospital  to  the 
bonour  of  Si.  Mary  Magdalen,  which  is  still  in  being,  and  called 
Gonalston  Spittle."  Throsby  calls  it  "  an  ill  looking  place/' 
and  it  certainly  cannot  be  reckoned  amongst  the  beauties  of 
Nottinghamiihirt;;  yet  though  the  chapel  is  in  sucb  a  state  of 
ruin  as  to  have  no  glass  in  the  windows^  each  new  incuiiibeat  is 
obliged  to  preach  here  on  bis  induction  to  the  living.  Here 
is  a  charity  school  for  six  boys, 

THURGAaTON  is  said  by  Mr.  Rastall  to  be  compounded  of 
ThoT^s-Oarth'ion ;  and  to  have  been  first  Roman,  then  Saxon. 
Tanner  says,  that  Ralph  de  Ayncourt  about  1130  placed  bete  a 
prior  and  a  convent  of  canons  of  the  order  of  St.  Austin ;  St. 
Peter  being  iheir  tutelar  ^alnt :  and  it  appears  that  tliis  noble 
baron  was  extremely  accommodating  to  the  church  by  thit 
grant;  for  an  ancient  MSS«  in  the  British  Museum  says  that  he 
"  turned  bis  house  into  an  abbey/'  The  tenants  of  these  lands' 
after  ihey  came  into  possession  of  the  monks,  were  under  some 
curious  regulations^  amongi^t  which  *'  every  she  native^  as  of^ 

as 


KOTTINGBAMSRIBE. 


275 


08  she  took  a  husband^  or  committeci  fornicaiion^  was  to  give 
for  the  redemption  of  tier  blood  58.  4d, ;  but  if  the  daughter  of 
a  cottager  only  half!"  The  village,  notwithstanding  these 
licensee  for  population,  is  still  but  small,  with  a  church  once  of 
considerable  magnificence,  but  now  almost  dilapidated,  nothing 
but  one  dark  aisle  remaining,  partially  lighted  by  a  window 
which  has  been  formed  out  of  on«  of  the  principal  entrances, 
once  a  noble  specimen  ot  Gothic  elegance.  At  the  dissolution 
it  was  granted  to  ihe  ancestors  of  the  family  of  Cooper,  the 
present  possessors ;  some  of  whose  monuments  are  in  the  church, 
but  of  a  modern  date. 

The  ancient  priory  was  pulled  down  by  the  late  Mtf  Cooper, 
who,  leaving  only  some  small  remains  of  the  foundation  now  in- 
corporated in  the  cellars,  bnitt  a  platn  modern  house  of  three 
stories  liigh,  Thurgarton  Hall,  upon  its  scite.  Mr,  Rastall 
camplaius,  that  part  of  the  remains  of  the  abbey,  now  destroyed, 
consisted  of  a  kitchen,  vast  and  magnificent  almost  beyond 
parallel  or  compari&on,  and  very  feelingly  adds  that  an  antiquary 
must  be  allowed  to  lament  tlie  felse  taste  which  dictated  the 
destruction  of  so  noble  a  monument  of  ancient  grandeur.  The 
grounds  are  pleasingly  di versified  with  wood  and  water;  but 
the  mansion  has  been  some  time  in   lease  to  John  Breitle,  Esq. 

In  Dcnihorptf  or  Dunethorpe,  in  this  parish,  the  prior  of 
Thurgarton  and  the  abbot  of  Peterborough  agreed  that  all  the 
tenants  were  to  plow  for  the  church  three  days  in  the  yean 
''  Each  plough  to  have  per  day  four  loaves  and  four  htrrings. 
They  were  likewise  two  days  and  a  half  in  autumni  and  to  have 
their  wonted  meat  once  in  ihe  day,  and  the  second  day  like- 
wise, if  the  abbot  would  have  them  all  day,  otherwise  to  go 
away  at  nine  o'clock  without  meat,  &c/' 

FiSKERTOM,  on  the  banks  of  the  Trent,  has  a  ferry  which 
crosses  to  Stoke,  It  appears  an  increaVmg  place,  having  seve- 
ral coal-wharfs  and  warehouses  connected  with  the  Trent  navi- 
gation. Here  was  anciently  an  Austin  cell.  Tanner  tells  us, 
that  this  manor  having  been  granted  to  the  priory  of  Thu 

S2 


m 


^OTTIHOUAMSiUkS* 


Ion  by  Ralph  de  Ayncourt  the  founiler^  in  the  court  or  matiof 
houj^,  were  Hoon  after  pluced  some  tew  black  canons  belongs 
iiig  to  that  moiiaslei  y,  who  had  a  cliapcl  here  dedicated  to  tltn 
Blessed  Virgioj  and  se%*eral  beuefactioiis  settled  upon  tliem- 
This  was  one  of  the  very  few  houses  which  were  granted  to  the 
laity  in  the  time  of  Pinlip  and  Mary;  and  vva^  given  to  l<f>rd 
Cjinton  and  Thomas  Morrison* 

Norwood,  about  two  aiiks  from  Southwelli  baF  a  small 
modern  seat  built  of  brick  and  stone  by  John  Sutton^  Esq*  which 
aikr wards  coiutnjj  to  his  brolber  and  heirj  Sir  Richard  Sutton# 
BarL  an  act  of  Parliament  was  procured  to  enable  the  archbishop 
of  York  k)  grant  him  this  place  in  fee,  in  exchange  for  other 
lands  of  ec|ual  value.  The  situaliop  of  the  house  is  extremely 
pkasaiiij  being  on  a  gentle  slope,  with  a  small  piece  of  w^ter 
in  the  bottom^  and  the  approach  is  pleasingly  striking,  through 
scattered  clumps  of  firs  and  larches,  inltrspersed  with  some 
venerable  oaks.  This  mansion  is  at  present,  we  belieTe«  occu- 
pied by  Thunias  Wright,  Esq. 
^Kcturning  to  the  great  uorlh  road  we  arnre  at 

SUTTON  UPON  TRENT, 


Which  is  indeed  nothing  more  than  a  large  village,  consisting 
of  many  scattered  dwellings  upon  the  bank  of  the  river.  It  is, 
however,  a  good  central  situation  fur  the  tourist  who  wishes  to 
examine  the  few  parishes  of  ibis  county  which  lie  beyond 
Trent, 

The  Church  here  is  a  vicarage,  and  was  anciently  in  the 
patronage  of  the  prior  of  Worksop,  who  possessed  the  rectory. 
It  is  dedicated  to  All  Saints;  and,  having  a  slender  spire  on  a 
tower  of  some  elevation,  has  a  good  effect  when  seen  from  a  dis* 
tance*  The  nave  and  two  side  aisles  are  in  good  condition,  but 
there  are  no  ancient  monuments,  except  one  under  an  antique 
arch  in  the  cbtincel  but  without  Inscriptf on. 


JfOTTINCHAUSlllRK. 


2?r 


I 
I 
I 


^  was  formerly  in  the  SuUon  ffimily;  but  Itlcharc!  Je  Sulton 
kavlng  five  daughters,  coheiresses,  the  manor  was  diviik'd>  and 
Mary  the  fourth  daughter  had  the  greatest  share :  her  grand- 
daughter Joan  was  wife  of  Bertram  de  Moabouei^ier  who 
claimed  a  market  here  every  Monday  weekly,  and  a  yearly 
hir  for  two  days,  on  the  eve  and  feast  of  St.  James  the  apostle  ; 
byt  these  are  now  dbu?ied. 

An  extraordinary  facti^  recorded  here  of  the  lateness  of  the 
harve«?t  in  the  year  18(M*,  w  Iven  on  the  fir^t  of  March  the  liar- 
Tt'St  after  m>Jch  dilliculty  and  labour  terminated,  by  getting 
home  ft  iield  of  bean.<i  in  excellent  condiiiou  ! 

Nonrn  Colling H\!tf  U  a  pretty  large  village  with  some  good 
houses.  Its  very  ancient  church  i*  of  Saxon  origin,  all  the 
arches  on  the  Routh  aide  of  the  nave  being  of  that  order.  Those 
are  very  irregolar  in  size  ;  and,  thoygh  oi  excellent  workman- 
ship, do  not  appear  us  if  intended  for  part  oi'  ffth  buihling,  hnl 
are  perhaps  a  part  of  the  old  priory  church  which  is  tradi- 
tionally related  to  have  exij^tcd  here.  It  h  dedicated  to  St* 
John  the  Baptist,  and  has  a  good  tower  with  four  bells.  This 
parish  witb  its  neighbour  wais  formerly  the  property  of  the 
abbot  of  Peterborough,  whoj  as  early  as  the  reign  of  Henry 
the  third,  had  a  grant  of  free  warren  here,  and  set  up  a  gallows^ 
as  being  within  his  joristliction.  If  he  ha4l  no  right,  he  was  not- 
withstanding determined  to  shew  his  power,  and  accordingly 
hanged  a  thief  upon  it  :  but  the  bishop  of  Lincoln,  who 
claimed  the  lordship  of  Newark,  and  of  the  whole  ^it  Us  wapen- 
take, ordered  the  gailows  to  be  taken  down. 

South  CoLLiNfJMAM  lies  nearer  to  Newark,  and  has  a  ^mall 
church  dedicated  to  All  Sainu,  and  a  Baptist  meeting  house. 
Stukeley  takes  notice  of- a  high  barrow  or  tumulm  called  Pot* 
ter's  Hill*  stated  traditionally  to  have  been  a  Roman  pottery  • 
it  is  likely,  how^evcr,  to  have  been  originally  a  Roman,  or  per- 
haps a  British,  military  suiion,  as  it  aarid?*  upon  an  enuntnc* 
commanding  a  prospect  of  the  road  on  both  sides,  Gough,  in- 
deed^ says,  "  at  (^olfin|Jiam,or  Burgh  near  it,,  was  the  OocQievta 

S  'J 


170TTldr6HAIfSHtR&. 


1 


of  Antoninus*  The  ramparts  are  plowe<l  over  j  l>ut  the 
Eoman  coins.  Burgh  Peonies,  have  been  found  here,  and 
foundations  often  struck  up*  Many  pots,  urns,  bricks,  iron  oret 
and  cinders,  have  been  found  here.'*  Mr.  Tbrosby's  observa* 
tion  on  this  is  of  rather  a  curious  nature  :  for  after  acknowledg- 
ing that  such  things  have  been  dug  up  here»  he  adds  yet  not 
such  kind  oC  pottery  or  of  bricks  '*  from  what  I  could  learn 
that  indicate  that  thi&  place  had  been  a  Roman  station  ofikat 
consequence  ^  Crocolana ;"  but  if  these  things  were  Bomtm,  the 
kind  can  have  nothing  to  do  with  the  consequence  of  thv  tiation 
or  establish mtint,  for  at  our  own  manufactories  gooda  of  dif- 
ferent qualities  may  be  round. 

North  and  South  CtiFTO!*,  though  two  distinct  villages^  a 
mile  asunder,  have  bat  one  churchy  decent  \n  its  arrangements^ 
but  containing  nothing  curious.  At  North  Clifton  there  was 
formerly  a  collegiate  chauntry  for  secular  priests;  but  the 
whole  edifice  has  been  long  since  totally  destroyed. 

That  this  place  has  been  formerly  of  considerable  note  is 
manifest  from  various  discoveries.  Mr.  Pegge  observes  that 
Clifton  hill*  has  a  red  clilTnear  the  Trent,  for  the  space  of  i 
mile,  which  though  it  seems  natural,  yet  produces  innumerable 
pieces  of  urm  of  various  colours.  He  adds^  that  there  arc  mnny 
bones  and  scalps  otten  found,"  and  there  lately  tumbled  out  an 
ancient  grave  stone  without  inscriptiouj  but  with  some  iron  work, 
wherewith  the  parts  seem  to  have  been  united.  The  inhabi* 
tants  tell  of  some  pieces  of  lead  with  figures  upon  them,  and 
discourse  much  of  CHfton  castle,  which  they  suppose  to  have 
been  placed  upon  the  hill.*^ 

Here  h  a  ferry  over  the  Trent,  but  the  inhabitants  Jkre  firry 
free;  and  in  lieu,  the  ferryman  and  his  dog  have  each  a  dinner 
at  the  vicarage  at  Christmas,  of  roast  beef  and  plum  puddings 
and  the  parson\<;  dug  is  always  turned  out  whilst  the  ferryman's 
eats  his  share  of  the  entertainment.    The  ferryman  also  has  a 

righ- 

•  BibL  Top.  Brit,  Vol  IIL  p.  4B6. 


KOTTIKailAMSIIl&I* 

right,  OQ  that  day,  lo  claim  from  the  TiUagers  a  prime  loaf  of 
bread* 

Thoenky  is  a  small  village  wkh  a  church  dedicated  to  St« 
Heleo^  and  contaimiig  some  monuments  of  the  Neville  family # 
nut  of  Tery  ancieiu  date.  Here  is  a  very  agreeable  seat  of 
George  NevllJe,  ILsq.  with  pleasing  grounds;  but  the  most  im* 
portant  object  is  the  scene  of  improved  cukivatiun,  a  targe  tract 
of  low  moors,  often  flooded  by  rain<it  and  said^  in  the  late  agri- 
cultural survey,  t«  be  the  worst  huid  which  the  editor  had  ever 
&een.  Yet  this  has  all  been  reclaimed  within  the  last  thirty 
years,  by  a  good  system  of  drairt:ige,  follnwed  up  by  Mmeing*  and 
manuring  :  the  worst  land  has  thus  been  rendered  fit  fur  plant* 
ingf  and  upwards  of  two  hundred  acres  are  in  a  very  flourishing 
state,  w  hi  1st  the  remainder  by  judicious  cropping  and  feeding  is 
now  in  a  state  amply  lo  repay  the  very  extraordinary  expenses, 
incurred  particularly  in  the  article  of  manure*^ 

Brodholme  ia  ta  Thorney  parish^  but  contains  only  two  or 
three  houses.  It  once,  howevefj  had  a  monastery ;  and  Tan* 
jier  tells  us  that  Agnes  de  Camville^  wife  of  Peter  Gousla,  (ihc 
founder  of  Newhouse  fur  Prxmonstratensian  canons,)  placed 
here  a  prioress  and  nuns  of  that  order,  about  the  latter  part  of 
the  reign  of  king  Stephen.  This  small  monastery,  situated 
upon  the  borders  of  the  county  next  to  Lincolnshire,  wasdedi* 
cated  to  the  blessed  Virgin  Mary,  and  had  possessions  rated  at 
16L;  but  Sarah,  dat^hter  of  Agnes  and  Peter,  seems  to  have 
been  Its  greatest  benefactres.%  having  both  added  to  and  con* 
firmed  the  original  grant* 

In  an  old  MSS,  in  the  British  Museum,t  there  is  a  curious 
story  of  some  priests  giving  to  a  nun  a  green  gown  / 

•'  L  I  find  under  Ere  via  Rex  Edward  i  III,  anno  XXIV- 
that  William  Fox,  Parson  of  Lee  near  Gainsborough,  John  Fox, 

S  4  and 

*  Vide  ft  letter  of  Mr.  Neviic*i  to  Sir  Richard  Sattoti,  Bart*  m  the  Agricul- 
tural Survey,  p.  30 » 

t  Aytcough'i  CutiUogQe,  4938,  135,  with  a  tBireu)«l  reference  to  Wcarcr'i 
FancTil  Mgnuroenis.  , 


ISnQ 


VOTTl^OffJUfSltTllV. 


aiid  Thomas  dc  Lingostone,  Friars  minora  of  llie  consent  in 
Lincoln,  were  indited  before  Gilbert  d'Unifravill  and  otbef 
Justices  in  parlibu?i  de  Lindley  apud  Ttmancastefi  die  Sabbaw 
po&t  fesluin  S.  Jobaruiis  Bapttstij  in  the  said  yere.  ^*  for  tti^t 
they  came  to  Brad  holme,  a  nunnery  in  the  county  of  Not  ting* 
bam,  tbe  XVI IL  of  the  Kalands  c»f  February,  and  then  and 
there  rapucrunt  et  abduxerutit  inde,  <rontra  pacem  DK  Regis, 
&c,*-> violently  tnok>  and  forcibly  carried  away  thence >  agaiiisl^M 
the  peace  of  their  Sovereign  Lord  the  King,  a  certain  nun  hy^M 
name  Margaret  de  Everingham,  a  sister  of  the  said  House  (strip- 
ping  her  of  her  religioua  habits,  and  putting  upon  her  a  green 
gown  or  robe  of  the  secular  fashion)  and  also  divers  goods 
to  the  value  of  XL.  S.**— 

1L\TIDBY,  or  Herdeby,  a  small  village  upon  the  verge  of  the 
county,  is  remarkable  as  the  place  where  Queen  Eleanor  lay  ill 
and  died.  How  little  dependence  can  at  any  time  be  placed  in 
traditt0fi  is  exemplified  in  this  instance^  by  the  very  absurd 
story  ^ihicb  Mr,  Throshy  picked  up  here*  He  says,  "  the  in* 
habitants  here  have  a  simple  tradnion,  that  a  Queen  Catharine 
fje^ided  ages  since  at  this  pface*  Foundations  of  some  capital 
buildings  are  here  frecjuenlly  di^ieovered,  which  foster  tbe  tra- 
dition.*' If  Mr.  Throsby,  however^  had  looked  Into  Goagh^s 
additions  to  Camden,  he  would  have  t'ound  that  Herdby  "  where 
Queen  Eleanor  died  29th  of  November,  HHb  of  Edw^ard  the 
lirat  was  not,  aii  vulg;n"ly  sujjposud,  near  Bolingbroke  in  Lin- 
colnshire, but  in  the  parish  of  N»irlh  Clifton  on  the  Trent,  in 
this  county >  five  miles  frum  Lincoln,  where  was  a  vill.i  and' 
chape!  of  ease  to  that  parish  which  is  one  of  the  prebends  of 
Lincoln,  The  king  founded  a  chauntry  here  ;  a tterwards  re- 
moved to  Lincoln  where  her  bowels  were  buried.^'  Here  the 
first  cross  was  erected,  but  iii  now  do^itvoyed  ;  and  the  next  wib^h 
at  Lincoln.  ^^| 

Returning  into  the  great  north  roadj  we  cgme  to  Weston^  a 
ver}^  pleasant  village^  seated  upon  a  hill,  with  a  neat  Gothic 
churcU>  and  commancling  a  line  view  over  the  northern  part  o* 

th« 


VOVTUIOHAM8BIR1.  Ml 

Uie  ccHintj ;  pariicalarly  Semnkmg  moor  to  which  we  ioactaadi 
and  where  the  toorUt*  if  fiitigued,  nay  be  elcgantl  j  accoamio* 
dated  at  Scorikmg  moor  Imt,  aungle  and  eztrmely  elegi^il  hooae 
on  the  right  hand  sid^'of  the  road.  It  is  cased  with  a  stonelika 
composition,  and  has  a  very 'haodsonecorridore  arranged  as  a 
greenhouse^  connecting  it  with  the  offices,  with  a  shrubbery  in 
front,  and  presenting  ali  the  ^^rtwtem  of  a  private  mansion* 

The  moor  being  now  in  a  state  of  inclosnre  presents  a  pleas* 
ing  scene  of  coltivation,  contrasting  finely  with  some  vnMg 
though  flat,  scenery  in  its  vicinity.    . 

Two  mties  further  of  excellent  road,  bring  as  to 

■  ..  •  '  ■  ■ 

TUXFORD,* 

Often  called  Toxford  in  the  Clay,  from  its  situation  in  thai  ' 
division  of  the  hundred,  and  well  kpown  as  a  posting  stage  oaf 
the  north  road.  ..  -      ■*  .    »    - 

OldBarnabyindescrtbing  hit' northern  route,  says    • 

''  Theoce.  to  Tof  ford  in  tlw  Cli^  Ificrfi, 
Where  poor  tnveliert  fiodMch  wajr  Cherej 
Wa^rs  like  bird-lime  seem  to  tbew  them. 
Seats  are  S^rtt  to  snch  at  know  them ; 
Th'  \wy  hsngt  there,  Idrtg  batt  hong  there. 
Wine  is  never  v«nttcd  ahong  there.". 

If  the  wine  is  not  better  than  in  ftrnaby's  days»  more  of  it 
is  now  sold  there,  for  the  town  consists  principally  of  inns  for 
the  great  resort  to  it  as  a  thoroughfare. 

The  town  is  but  small,  but  is  of  more  modem  appearance^ 
than  many  others  in  the  county,  having  been  burned  down  on 
the  eighth  of  Sept.  1702.  Much  of  what  is  rebuilt^  however,  con* 
sists  of  farm  residences ;  and  there  is  scarcely  any  trade  in  the 
place  except  in  hops,  of  which  a  considerable  quantity  is  raised 
ill  the  vicinity.    The  Fair  for  this  article  takes  place  on  the 

«5th 

*  Googh  says,  ''  branded,  to. a  proverb,  for  its  mty  vitoation.'' 


nt 


1IOm^OHAMSfitftl« 


k9i5ili  of  September;  and  there  is  another  on  the  l'2th  of  May  for 
caiile,  sheep,  pigs,  and  poultry.     The  market  is  on  Monday* 
anil  is  fuUy  supplied   for   the   small   population,  which  by  the 
returns  of  1801  consisted  only  of  785  in  110  houses;  being  400 
males,  anil  385  females*     The  church,  which  is  oppoMle  to  the 
principal  inn,  is  dedicated   to   St.  Nicholas,  con5ists  of  a  na¥e 
and  side  aisle,  and  has  a  spire  with  five  good  bells.     All  the 
ancient  monuments  mentioned  by  Thoroton,  as  well  as  the  ar- 
morial glass,  are  in  a  htate  of  decay  ;  there  is,  however,  still  in 
existence  a  representation  of  Su  Laurence  roasting   on  a  grid- 
I  iron ;  one  man  is  employed  in  blowing  the  fire,  another  turning 
|btm  with  a  pair  of  tongs,  and  a  third  looking  on;  aUo  some 
•pecimens  in  the  north   porch   of  a  priest  in  the  attitude  of 
prayer.    This  latter  is  on  a  stone  of  a  coffin  shape  ;  the  fi^re  i$ 
I  only  a  bust,  with  his  head  shaven,  and  a  cushion  under  it,  ac- 
I  ^ooipanied  by  a  quaLrefoil,  rondeau,  chalice,  and   patten,  the 
emblems  of  the  sacerdotal  office.     In  the  north  wall  also  is  a  i 
very  ancient  (igure  of  a  lady  in  a  si^uare  head  dress,  strait  sur* 
coat,  and  long  sleeves,  and  a  bound  at  her  feet ;  opposite  to  hcr^ 
b  an  altar  tomb  with  the  mutikted  trunk  of  an  armed  knight ; 
but  the  armorial  bearings  are  too  obscure  to  be  ascertained. 

Of  its  former  history,  we  find  recorded  in  Tanner,  that  here 
was  a  college  founded  by  John  de  Longvillers  who  obtained 
leave  to  place  in  the  parsonage  house  here  a  college  of  live 
chaplains,  one  of  whom  to  be  warden ;  but  that  not  taking 
effect,  he  got  leave  from  Edward  the  third  to  give  this  ad  vow- 
ion  to  Newstead  priory,  that  they  might  find  five  chaunting 
priests,  viz.  three  at  Tuxford,  and  two  at  their  own  conventual 
church,  whose  duty  should  be  to  pray  for  his  soul,  &c. 

But  a  more  rational  establishment  is  of  later  date,  and  con- 
sists of  a  Grammar  School,  which  is  held  in  a  well-built  house* 
and  has  long  been  in  considerable  repute.  It  deserves  parti- 
cular mention  ;  wc  shall,  therefore,  give  an  extract  from  a  MSS, 
inlheBri'jsh  Museum.*^ 

"  From 
*  Ajrioougb*!  Citaloguei  49H*  18. 


KOTTlKGHAMSinaB. 


283 


<*  From  a  MSS,  copy  in  the  bands  of  Isaac  Garner,  Gent,  of 
Grantham,  June  1st,  1731.  Mr*  Charles  Reatl  by  bis  last  will 
and  testament,  dated  30  July  1669,  amongst  other  matters, 
wills  thus  : 

1*  "  Item,  1  do  hereby  give  and  bequeath  for  the  mainte* 
nance  of  two  several  Free  Grammer  Schools/'  {one  at  Corby 
in  Lincolnshire)  "  to  be  erected*  constituted,  and  continued  for 
ever,  after  my  death.— 

4.  Item^  for  the  respective  leaching  and  instructing  of  the 
youth  and  children  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  ^ulid  respective 
towns  and  parji>hes,  to  write,  read,  and  ca:»t  accounts>  and  further 
to  instruct  th^m  in  Latin,  as  occasion  shall  require  respec- 
tively. 

5*  The  several  yearly  sums  or  stipends  of  30/.  apiece  per 
annunu 

6.  And  I  do  hereby  likewise  give  to  eight  boys  (the  sons  of 
poor  widows  of  ministers,  and  of  decayed  gentlemen  and  their 
widows  who  are  not  able  to  maintain  their  charge,)  the  sum  of 
5L  per  annum  apiece,  for  ever,  towards  their  maintenance  in 
dyet  and  otherwise ;  to  enter  at  their  respective  ages  of  seven 
years  or  upw&rds,  and  to  be  continued,  taoghtt  and  instructed, 
gratis,  by  the  respective  masters  of  the  respective  schools  for 
the  time  being,  in  such  manner  as  the  rest  of  the  children  of 
the  respective  inhabitants  of  the  aforesaid  towns  and  parishes 
respectively  ought  to  be  taught  as  aforesaid,  untill  their  re- 
spective ages  of  sixteen  years;  and  then  to  be  removed  and 
others  to  be  admitted  in  their  places,  viz.  four  of  them  by  the 
master  for  the  time  being  of  the  Freeschool  of  Corby,  where 
they  are  there  to  reside  ;  and  four  of  them  by  the  master  for  the 
time  being  of  the  Freeschool  of  Tuxford  aforesaid,  where  they 
are  to  reside,  till  their  said  ages  of  sixteen  years  as  aforesaid. 

?•  Gives  lands  in  fee  to  trustees^ 

9»  Appoints  ^ix  freeholders  of  Tuxford  as  trustees  for  an 
half. 

19,  Declares 


*2^^ 


iiaftiv«rttAMsirrR«r 


19.  Declares  all  surplosse*  ti  be  for  repairi,  &c  ;  but  fifitto 
build  school  houses,  and  lodgings  for  the  masUTS. 

24.  Uerpit'^ts  the  lords  uf  the  respective  iiiai»ors  to  give  ptrce* 
Of  ground  (waste)  for  the  purpose. 

Si).  A|ipnintH  mayor  and  aldermen  of€rajitham  lobe  visjiors, 

:J4.  In  ca?e  of  abuse,  Ruch  parts  lo  be  entered  upon  by  the 
heirs  at  law,  but  lo  recontinue  the  salaries,  &c.  on  ct-asing  of  the 
abuse. 

4^,  Gives  200/,  towards  the  building  of  the  scboolhouse, 
SicJ*  We  have  been  the  more  diflTuse  on  this  head,  not  only 
to  render  it  an  cxampfe  to  others  in  this  liberal  age  ;  but  also  to 
preserve  the  memory  of  such  parts  as  may  have  become  nearly 
dormant,  or  al  leiJit  unknown  to  those  whose  circumstances 
mo5tre()uire  such  adventitious  aid  in  the  education  of  their  Httle 
one^* 

Of  Egmantok,  in  this  neighbourhood,  we  are  told  that  in  the 
feign  of  Henry  the  first,  there  was  one  Nigel lus  de  Albini. 
liroihcrto  the  Earls  of  Clare  and  Arundel,  then  a  young  man  of 
a  good  diH|io?*ilion,  and  great  hope ;  who  carrying  the  kiog^s 
bow  was  made  a  knight,  and  for  his  honesty  enfeoffed  by  that 
monarch  with  this  munor,  with  the  parks  «nd  appurtenances. 
He  hiid  not  been  seized  of  thtuj  long,  when  he  guve  them  to 
his  bosom  friend  Hubert  lyAiville;  this  coming  lo  the  king^s 
knowledge,  he  enr|nired  into  its  truth,  when  Nigellus  answered 
•*  It  was,**  adding  that  now  the  king  had  got  two  honest  knighfi 
instead  of  one.  Nigellus  was  the  founder  of  the  family  of 
Mowbray^  and  the  descendants  of  D'Aiville  held  it  of  that 
family  as  far  down  as  the  time  of  Edward  the  first. 

Llxington^  or  Lax  ton,  is  a  considerable  viHage  that  once 
gave  the  title  of  Baron  to  the  Buttons  of  Kelham.  Itschurdi 
is  dedicated  to  St.  Michatd,  and  once  had  much  armorial  painting 
and  carving,  of  tlie  uncient  families  of  Roos,  Hastings,  ♦irey, 
Longvillers,  kc.  Thesis  arc  now  either  mutilated  or  totally 
gone,  partly  through  the  unavoidable  decay  of  lime,  but  pnii.; 


i 
4 


4 


KoTTtlfOH  AMStI  1  as* 


7BS 


i^ipally  Dwitigr  according  to  Mr.  Throsby^s  cibservation^  tliiriy 
years  ago,  to  tbe  unpanlonabli:  neglect  of  iho^e  who  ought  to  have 
preserved  them  tram  wanton  destruction.  Hu  gives,  iti  particu* 
lar^  a  most  horrid  picture  of  the  tilth  and  nastinc^s  of  the  north 
cemeterVf  the  original  burying  place  of  the  fiHinder*;  but  it  h 
pleasing  to  observe  that  a  great  chnnge  for  the  better  has  since 
tliat  taken  place.  Anciently  there  was  a  chauntry  in  the  church; 
siiid  it  has  evidently  been  a  building  of  great  ecclesiastical  im-* 
portance,  having  a  spacious  nave  and  two  side  aisles,  with  a 
large  chancel,  a  lofty  tower,  and  five  bell^i.  Amongst  the  old 
mtmunients  were  three  of  crusaders;  but  they  are  gone* 

FiiUer^  Lu  his  Worthies^  telbus,  in  his  usual  quaint  style,  that 
William  Chappell  was  born  here  and  bred  a  feUow  in  Christ*s 
College  in  Cambridge^  where  he  was  remarkable  for  the  strict* 
nesH  of  his  conversatioiu  No  one  tutor  in  our  memory,  adds  he, 
bred  more  and  better  pupils;  so  exact  bis  care  in  their  educa- 
tion* He  was  a  most  subtle  diaputant,  equally  excellent  with 
the  sword  and  tlu-  shield,  to  reply  or  answer. 

He  was  chosen  provost  of  Trinity  College  in  Dublin ;  and  af- 
terwards biihop  of  Cork  and  Rosse.  Frighted  with  the  rebel- 
lion in  Ireland  (1(j41  )  he  came  over  to  England,  where  he  rather 
cxchai»gedj  than  eased,  his  condition^  such  the  woefuiness  of 
our  civil  wars.      He   died  anno   1649,  and   parted   his  estute 

^almost  equally  betwixt   his  own    kindred  ami  distres*sed  mim«* 

Iters;  his  charity  not  impairing  Ids  duty,   and  his  duty  not  pre* 

Hudicing  his  charity* 

OssiNGTON  Hail  lies  a  short  distance  south  of  Laxton>  and 
U  the  modern  built  seat  of  John  Denisoii,  Esq.  IVL  P.  Here 
was  an  ancient  house  in  the  old  style,  with  pointed  roofs  and 
clustered  chimneys;  it  was  indeed  partly  de^etroyed  in  the 
civil  wars,  about  which    lime   it  belonged  to  the  Cartwtight 

rfcmiiy»  afterwards  to  that  of  C^ranmer,  and  since  purcbtised  by 
the  late  Mr  Denison  of  Leeds,  a  gentleman  said  to  have  rea- 
lized a  fortune  of  three-fourths   of  a  million,  by  the  woollt^n 

*  traJe. 


trade.  Tboroion  gives  a  Tiew  of  the  ancient  edifice,  and  calb 
it  <' a  dwelling  of  more  magnitude  than  iplendoor;''  in  the 
present  one,  however,  elegance  and  comfort  are  united.  The 
pleasure  grounds  are  laid  out  in  a  good  style,  and  the  park  is 
extensive. 

The  church  is  newly  built,  and  contains  a  magnificent  man^ 
soleum  to  the  memory  of  the  late  worthy  proprietor. 

Marnham  lies  on  the  east  side  of  the  great  north  road#  near 
to  the  bank  of  Trent.  Though  but  one  village,  it  consists  of  two 
hamlets,  and  is  a  cheerful,  pleasant,  though  retired*  spot.  Wil* 
Ham  de  Cawres  "  gave  for  his  souFs  health,  and  that  of  Agnes 
his  wife,  to  God^  St.  Mary,  and  St.  Cuthbert  at  Radford,  and  the 
brethren  serving  God  there,^^  (which  he  considered  no  doubt 
as  ihe^rm  of  his  heavenly  bank,)  free  passage  for  their  servants 
and  carriages  in  his  ferry  boat  here  \" 

The  church  here  was  the  property  of  the  knights  templars, 
upon  whose  extirpation  it  went  to  tlie  knights  hospitallers  of 
St.  John  of  Jerusalem. 

Here  is  a  fair  on  the  13th  of  September  for  horses,  homed 
cattle,  swine,  and  merchandise. 

At  one  period,  the  MamhamM,  Skegby,  and  Fleddorough, 
were  considered  as  forming  one  village;' but  the  latter  we  are 
told  by  an  intelligent  antiquary,''^  has  been  a  much  larger  place 
than  it  now  is.  There  have  indeed  been  no  antiquities  ever 
discovered  in  the  inclosures ;  but  this  he  attributes  to  their  con- 
sisting principally  of  grass  lands,  and  not  having  been  disturbed 
by  the  plough. 

The  church  is  a  spacious  edifice,  and  has  once  been  adorned 
with  much  scriptural  painting  in  the  windows.  Part  of  this  con- 
sisted of  the  twelve  apostles,  with  an  article  of  the  creed  along 
with  each ;  but  time  and  neglect  have  made  great  ravages  among 
them.  The  ancient  raised  monument  in  the  choir,  is  tradi- 
tionally 

*  Vide  Peggc*s  Bib.  Top.^ritan.  Vol.  HI.  p.  486. 
9 


KOTTIVaHABTSinaS* 


2M 


tionaliy  said  to  be  a  raecnorial  of  one  of  the  once  flourbhing 
family  of  Basset. 

Dunham,  or  Dunholme,  in  this  neighbourhood,  has  a  fair  on 
the  12ih  of  August  for  cattle  and  merchandize.  The  tenants 
L4»f  this  £oc  and  manor  have  peculiar  privileges;  for  being  tenants 
<^f  ancient  demesne,  "  they  ought  to  be  quit  of  murder,  pou. 
tage,  and  all  other  fiiies^  to  which  the  commonalty  of  the  rest 
of  the  county  are  subject/'  This  church  is  one  of  the  prebends 
of  Southwell,  being  given  by  Henry  the  first  to  Thurstan,  arch* 
bishop  of  York,  for  that  purpose, 

Easi  and  West  Drayton,  Laneham,  and  Stokeham,  are  all  com*' 
fortable  villages,  in  this  vicinity*  but  have  nothing  interesting 
to  give  them  a  place  here :  and  iti  Darleton  we  have  only  oc- 
casion to  mention  a  good  liouse  at  RagnaU#  lately  inhabited  by 
^a  branch  of  the  MeHish  family* 

East  Markham  is  a  large  and  populous  village^  and  may 
indeed  be  esteemed  a  country  town  ;  and  is  now  in  a  state  of 
further  improvement,  as  its  common  lands  are  all  in  process  of 
inciosure,  and  that  upon  a  liberal  scale  of  general  convenience* 
the  private  roads  being  thirty  feet  in  width,  and  public  foot 
roads  planned  of  six  feet,  so  as  to  insure  a  free  and  easy  comniu- 
nication.  The  church  is  a  very  pleasing  edifice,  with  a  lofty 
embattled  tower  ;  its  nave  and  side  aisles  are  good  specimens  of 
the  Gothic*  and  its  chancel  is  spaciou.<i.  Here  are  several  an* 
tit^ue  monuments;  particularly  one  of  Judge  Markham  as  far 
back  as  1409''^.  In  the  village  is  a  good  house  be  tanging  to  the 
family  of  Cartwright*  Amongst  the  various  ancient  religious 
benefactionjj  in  this  place  there  was  a  curious  grant  by  Avicia, 
wife  of  Jordan  de  Chevercourt,  who  gave  to  the  monks  at  Bly  the, 
St  bovate  of  land  "  for  a  refection  of  the  monks  on  the  day  of 

bet 

■     *  The  charchyarO  wns  formeHy  reckoned  worth  fire  poundi*  on  aceount  of 
F^i  site:  ittliis  was  for  profitable  purpoM^»,   iiidependeiit  <jf  clerical  dura  far 

»epuUure>  It  was  a  la rje  sum  to  be  given  far  it»  ncirt^  ft  eentury  ago,  an4  tliewf 

*4iJiC  it  iituil  jcideed  hate  been  citfAfi^, 


^S8 


XOTTTKOUAMSninS. 


ber  anniversary,  tbat  by  their  intcrcessiont  her  soul  in  heavejl 
might  have  refect'on  with  celestial  meat  and  drink.  &c/* 

Wlst  Markram  is  a  small  village  on  the  great  north  roadr 
with  a  conUurtable  inn,  xtvtd  as  a  posting  stage  by  the  rarious 
public  convey anres.  It  is  very  small,  nnd  has  a  very  small 
church;  but  there  '%«>  a  very  l«irge  moor  ivhteh  takea  ils  name 
froift  it,  partly  cultivated,  dad  now  in  a  state  of  inclosing.  At 
East  Markhaiii  there  is  a  School  for  twelve  buys,  and  eigh 
girls,  who  arc  all  clothed:  this  h  partly  supported  by  prirati 
subscription,  and  partly  by  a  bequest  of  ten  pounds  per  annum 
for  ever. 

Sir  John  Markham,  as  upright  a  judge  as  ever  sat  on  the 
bencbj  was  a  native  of  thii4  place,  and  descended  of  a  very  an- 
cient family.  He  was  educated  in  the  practice  of  the  law, 
was  knighted  by  Edxvard  the  fourth,  and  made  Lord  Chief  Jus- 
tice of  tlie  King*s  Bench,  in  the  room  of  Sir  John  Fortescuc. 
"These,"  says  Fuller  in  his  Worthies,  "  I  may  call  the  two 
Chief  Justices  of  the  Chief  Justices,  for  their  singular  integrity  |.. 
for  though  one  of  them  favoured  the  house  of  Lancaster,  th« 
other  of  York,  in  the  titles  to  the  crown,  both  of  them  favoured 
the  house  of  justice,  in  matters  bt-iwij^t  party  and  party* 

It  happened  that  Sir  Thomas  Cooke,  late  Lord  Mayof  of 
London,  one  of  vast  wealth,  wa^  cast  before  hand  at  the  court« 
(where  the  Lord  Rivers  and  the  rest  of  the  queen's  kindred  had 
predevoured  his  estate,)  and  was  only  for  formalities'  sake  to 
be  condemned  in  Guildhall,  by  extraordinary  commissioners 
in  Oyer  and  Terfuiner,  whereof  8ir  John  Markham  was  not  the 
meanest.  The  fact  for  which  he  was  arraigned  was  for  fend- 
ing money  to  Margaret  of  Anjou:  this  he  denied,  and  the  sin- 
gle testimony  of  one  Hawkins,  tortured  ou  the  rack,  was  pro- 
4 need  against  him. 

Judge  INInrkham  directed   the  jury  (as  it  was  hrs  place,  and 
no  partiality   in  point  of  law  to  do,)   to  fmd  it  only  misprision 
ftrcasoni  whereby  Sir  Thomas  saved  his  lands,  though  heavily 

led,  and  litV*,  though  long  imprisoned.     At  this,  king  Edward 

was 


KOTTINGHAMSUIRi. 


2B9 


I 


jfM  fto  vexedi  that  Sir  John  was  ouied  of  his  Chief  Justiceship, 
and  lived  privalely  the  remainder  of  his  life.^' 

Another  anecttote  is  recorded  ofhlm^  ofa  lady  whoj  though 
agaiDst  the  will  of  her  husband^  "  would  traverse  a  suit  of  law, 
he  being  contented  to  buy  his  quiet  by  giving  her  her  i^ill 
therein,  though  oihrrways  persuaded  in  his  judgement  the  case 
Would  go  against  her.  This  lady,  d welting  in  the  Shiretown,  in- 
vited the  judge  to  dinner,  and  (though  tUrifty  enough  of  herself) 
treated  him  with  a  sumptuous  entertainment.  Dinner  being 
done,  and  the  cause  being  called,  the  judge  gave  it  clearly 
against  her ;  and  when  in  passion,  she  TOwed  never  to  invite  a 
judge  again.  Nay  wifcj  said  the  husband,  vow  never  to  invite  a 
jusi  judgt  any  more  .*** 

IktcrcQtcs  makes  a  much  greater  appearance  on  the  county 
map,  than  it  does  in  reality,  for  it  consists  of  not  more  than 
halfa  dozen  houses;  mid  its  church,  which  fell  dov«rn  in  1650, 
is  not  likely  ever  to  adopt  "  Resurgam*'  as  its  motto. 

HiUGHTON,  once  the  abode  of  the  Stanhopes,  and  afterwards 
of  the  ancestors  of  the  present  Newcastle  family  (Hollesi)  is 
now  in  total  decay.  The  house  is  entirely  gone,  and  nothing 
remains  but  the  chapel,  now  in  ruins;  but  being  buitt  in  the 
Gothic  Style  and  embotiomcd  in  trees,  it  forms  a  pleasing 
though  sombre  object  in  the  scenery.  It  never  consisted  of 
more  than  a  nave  and  north  cemetery,  in  which  is  the  ancient 
burial  vault  of  the  liolleses  which  his  present  grace  of  New- 
castle is  preparing  for  tlie  future  sepulchral  abode  of  himself 
and  family  ;  he  also  intends  making  some  repairs  in  the  chapel 
itself.  Even  the  gravestones,  at  present,  are  in  a  state  of  ruin, 
and  the  monumental  rcliques  are  in  a  total  state  of  mutilation 
and  decay. 

A  paper  mill  still   gives  employment  to  the  inhabitants  of  a 

few  cottages^  yet  this  place  was  once  of  suGjcient  coiwequence 

to  give  the  title  of  Baron  to  the  Earls  of  Clare  of  the  name  of 

Holies.    An  old  MS.    in  the  British  Museum   says,  the  house 

Vol.  XIL  T  '  wai. 


590 


iroTTnroftAn«HiKB* 


iras  an  ancieni  baildmg  with  little  unifbnnity  in  it.  Wilt  at  dif- 
ferent periods^  and  its  oldest  part  forming  the  entrance  tower, 
Tlie  history  of  this  place  aflfords  a  curious  lesson  to  manktnd* 
The  Stanhopes  sold  rt  to  Sir  William  Holies,  an  eminent  mffrchast 
in  the  mctro[>oli5,  and  lord  mayor  iti  the  reign  of  Henry  the 
eighth,  and  his  fortune  so  great  as  to  enable  him  to  becpieath  a 
fortune  of  10,000/*  per  annum  to  his  eldest  son.  His  hospi- 
tality was  great ;  and  he  sttways  begun  his  Christinas  holidays 
at  Hallow  tide,  and  coniititied  them  to  Candlemas,  during  which 
period  any  man  was  permitted  to  5lay  three  days  without  being 
asked  who  he  was,  or  whence  he  came.  At  all  times,  he  nevtr 
set  down  to  dinner  till  one  o*dock  ;  and  being  asked  why  he  a!- 
way!»  dined  so  late,  lii^i  answer  was,  that  for  aught  be  knewj 
there  might  be  a  friend  come  twent)-^  miles  to  dine  with  bim« 
and  he  would  be  loth  he  should  lose  his  labour,* 

His  son,  dying  before  liis  father,  never  came  to  the  family 
estate,  (though  it  appears  to  have  been  bequeathed  to  him  ;  but  he 
tired  at  Irby  in  Lincolnshire,  "where  he  was  seen  many  times 
Co  confront  Henry  Clinton,  Earl  of  Lincoln,  who  was  a  great 
tyrant  amongst  the  gentry  of  that  county,  and  carry  business 
against  him,  as  it  were,  in  spite  of  his  leeth,^'  little  thinking 
that,  in  a  few  generations,  his  blood  and  estates  would  centre  in 
the  family  of  that  nobleman:  and  the  grandson  of  Sir  Thomas, 
eldest  son  of  Sir  William,  losing  both  father  and  mother  at  an 
early  age,  "  was  exposed  to  the  most  wretched  condition,  till 
the  T,2tI  of  Clare  took  notice  of  him/' 

Tlie  first  Earl  of  Clare  of  the  Holies  family  was  bom  at 
Houghton  in  1564,  and  improved  so  ranch  under  a  private  tut 
that  at  thirteen  years  of  age  he  was  fit  to  be  sent  to  Tnnii 
College  Cambridge ;  where  at  his  first  examination  fee  dis- 
played such  genius  and  acquirements,  that  the  master  embraced 
him,  and  truly  prophesied  "  this  chiiJ  if  he  lives  will  become 
ft  singular  honour  and  ornament  to  his  country/*    Altera  due 

course 


at 


XOTTtKGHAMStllES* 


991 


courie  of  study  he  seemft  to  have  formed  some  idea  of  engag- 
ing ID  the  legal  po^eftsiotit  for  he  entered  himself  at  Gray's 
Ifin  on  leaving  college;  but  hav^ing  been  introduced  at  court, 
aad  been  appointed  one  of  the  gentlemen  of  the  Band  of  Pen* 
•ioDerSj  he  adopted  pursuits  more  agreeable  to  his  inclinations. 

In  that  age  of  mottoes  and  madrigals,  he  chose  for  bisjDo^^ 
*'  Qui  inimicum  timet,  amicum  nan  amat/'  and  with  great  jus^ 
lice«  for  a  brave  heart  is  always  the  most  generous  and  friendly ; 
and  the  gallant  spirit  marked  by  this,  he  was  soon  enabled  to 
indulge,  having  served  in  the  Flemish  ^vars,  and  al?o  against 
the  Turks. 

On  the  attempt  of  the  Spanish  Armada  against  the  libertiei 
of  his  native  country,  be  returned  and  distinguished  himself 
much  in  its  subsequent  defeat,  and  he  afterwards  did  consider- 
able service  in  the  suppression  of  the  different  rebellions  in 
Ireland. 

After  the  accession  of  James«  he  became  obnoxious  to  the 
court,  and  (why  we  know  not)  was  imprisoned;  but  after  a 
very  short  confinement  was  released,  aud  immediately  called 
to  the  House  of  Peers,  for  which,  however,  he  is  said  to  have 
paid  lOiOOO/,  to  Buckingham  the  favourite.  His  earldom  of 
Clare  was  bestowed  upon  him  in  IG^,  a  dignity  of  which  he 
was  highly  worthy  i  hut  which  it  is  said  he  could  not  obtain 
without  paying  down  50U0/.  more.  Though  content  to  pay 
the  bribe,  he  seems  to  have  despised  the  receiver,  and  in  the 
reign  of  Charlei  was  one  of  hi**  most  violent  enemies  ;  but  we 
must  also  allow  him  more  honourable  motives  for  his  general 
conduct,  as  he  stood  forth,  upon  all  occasions,  the  champion  of 
tht  just  rights  oi  the  people  against  the  uncoustttational  conduct 
of  the  then  minister.  Notwithstanding  this,  his  heart  was  im- 
pressed with  loyalty;  but  he  lived  not  to  see  the  degradation  of 
the  kingly  office,  or  the  overthrow  of  genuine  liberty  by  the 
fanatic  and  revolutionary  principles  of  the  demagogues  of  that 
day,  having  died  in  IG^iT^  at  the  venerable  age  of  7S, 


T2 


His 


^9^  irOTTlirOHAHBBIEEj 

llis  second  son,  howerer,  (Denztl  Holies)  also  bom  ab 
Havghton,  took  a  more  active  part  in  revolutionary  politics,  so 
much  so  as  to  be  in  the  list  of  members  whom  Charles  so  unad- 
vised ly  accused  of  high  treason.  He  was  born  in  1597,  and  in 
1627  came  into  the  House  of  Commons ;  in  which  year  he  be-, 
gan  to  display  his  activity,  being  one  of  the  persons  who  actu- 
ally by  force  held  the  speaker  in  the  chair,  until  the  well  known 
resolutions  were  read.  The  imperious  conduct  of  Charles  to- 
wards him  in  1641  gave  him  a  decided  turn  against  the  cxyurt 
party ;  yet  he,  though  afterwards  a  Pari iamen tar iai^  was  np^ 
only  a  steady  opposer  of  the  principles  which  took  away  buf 
ndnarch's  life,  but  was  ev^  obnoxious  t6  Cromwell  himself, 
for  his  resistance  to  his  nnconsiitutional  cwurpations^  He  now 
taw  the  absurdity  of  a  democratic  government  in  such  n 
country  as  England,  land  joined  with  ardour  in  the  proceedingt 
which  brought  about  the  Restoration ;  and  so  convinced  was  the 
second  Charles  of  his  loyalty  and  integrity/  thai  be  called  kiat 
to  the  upper  house,  by  the  title  of  Lord  HoUes^ 

The  other  leading  particulars  of  this  noble  family  may  be 
found  in  any  of  the  peerages;  we  mention  these  personages  aa 
connected  with  the  biography  of  the  place. 

Elke$ley,  near  Haughlon,  has  little  worth  noticing;  but  Gani'' 
ston,  or  Gaineston,  is  a  considerable  village,  and  great  part  of 
its  population  have  long  been  employed  in  the  manufacture  of 
Candlewick^  Like  all  other  manufacturing  places,  it  has  a  numt 
ber  of  sectaries,-  of  whom  the  Baptists  are  the  most  numerous. 
Its  church  has  once  been  antiijue:  but  its  brasses  being  all  de- 
stroyed or  stolen,  and  its  monumental  ornaments  having  suffered 
heauiifying  from  the  whitewash  brushes  of  the  Vandal^  in  oilice 
a  few  years  ago,  there  is  nothing  to  interest  the  antiquary  .^ 

Proceeding  along  the  north  road  we  come  ta 


ftETFORD; 


KOTTINQHAU»RtliE. 


m 


RETFORD- 

"  Thence  to  Retford,  fish  I  fed  ton, 
Audi  to  til'  adiiigr,  I  h^id  rtvd  on. 
With  curouses  I  did  uim  mc. 
That  mj  (Uh  might  swtm  «rithiji  me. 
As  they  hud  done  bemg  living 
And  in  the  river  oimbljr  div^iDg/'* 

This  cheerful  and  populous  town,  seated  on  the  river  Tdie, 
has  fchence  become  extremely  husy^  particularly  since  the 
branch  of  the  Chesterfield  canal  has  been  brought  into  ita  ti» 
cimty.  Comfort^  and  even  weaUh^  are  displayed  on  all  sides; 
and  its  open  airy  square,  surrounded  by  good  regular  buildings, 
gtV£S  k  an  air  of  importance  that  few  country  towns  of  its  size 
possess.  Its  name  is  supposed  to  have  originated  from  an  an- 
cient ford  over  the  river,  at  a  place  where  the  soil  consisted  of 
a  reddish  coloured  clay,  and  of  which  a  considerable  quantity  is 
still  fiiun4  in  the  vicinity* 

Properly  ipvaking,  it  consists  of  two  towns  and  two  parishes^ 
East  and  IVest  Retford,  from  their  situations  on  each  side  of  the 
river,  and  each  of  these  are  distinct  in  jurisdiction ;  but  their  ex- 
treme nearness  make»  them,  for  all  local  purpoi>es,  but  as  one^ 
being  iniited  by  a  very  substantial,  and  not  inelegant  bridge ; 
we  shall,  however,  consider  them  separately  in  onler,ofde^ 
fcription* 

The  church  of  Bait  Retford,  dedicated  to  St*  Swithin,  and 
called  the  Corporation  church  from  its  being  within  the  bo- 
roughi  is  a  neat  Gothic  edifice,  in  high  condition  on  the  outside^ 
but  not  so  well  in  the  interior.  It  ha^a  handsome  square  tower 
with  sis  well  toned  ht;lU,  and  its  nave  and  two  side  aisles  are 
well  lighted,  and  on  a  commodious  plan.  The  chancel  \%  but 
small ;  and,  being  rather  dark,  is  disailvantageous  to  the  appear* 
ance  of  ita  altarpiece,  which  represents  the  Last  Supper  of  our 
irord^  and  was  given  about  a  century  ago  by  a  gentleman  resi- 

T  3  dent 

•  Drunkca  B4mnbj'»  Jourocj. 


S54 


irdtTlVGHAlltHIRE* 


on  of 


deut  ill  the  town.  Here  are  some  sepulchn&l  memorials,  one  oi 
which  is  to  the  memory  of  Robert  StJtton,  £aq.  who  distin- 
guished himself  much  by  his  benefactions  to  the  town  and  to 
the  church;  he  also  left  a  share  tn  the  canal,  for  the  benefit  of 
the  poor  of  East  Retford* 

This  church  is  a  vicaragej  the  rectory  being  in  the  cathedral 
of  York,  whose  archbishop  in  1258  allotted  for  the  vicar's  main* 
tenance  one  hundred  shiUrngs  of  altarage,  and  the  small  tythes 
of  pigs,  geese,  chickens^  and  the  bread  and  wine,  ale  and  beer, 
which  should  happen  to  be  brought  to  the  altar :  but  the  tytbei 
of  the  milts  were  to  be  given  Uj  the  poor.  Once  a  yeAT  mla^H 
there  is  a  visiLahon  in  this  church*  ^B 

Sioswick  Hospital  was  built  some  years  ago  by  a  person  of 
that  name  ^or  four  men ;  but  it  was  rebuilt  in  1806  by  the  i 
poration,  and  is  now  a  neat  building  of  brick,  simply  imitativl 
of  the  G(tthic,    The   Freeschool  endowed  by  Edward  the  six tj 
is  near  the  church,  and  is»  as  it  ought  to  be,  plain  and  spaciouf 
It  has  been  rebuilt  within  these  few  years  by  the  corporation,^ 
who  have  added  good  accommodations  for  the  master  and  usher. 
Here  is  also  an  Alttuhouu  for  twelve  poor  women. 

The  Town  HALL  was  built  about  Bl\y  years  ago,  and  is  a  plain 
yet  handsome,  and  commodious  edilice;  but  it  is  to  be  regrt^tte 
that  it  very  inconveniently  occupies  a  large  space  of  the  marks 
place*  Here  are  always  held  the  sessions  both  for  town  an 
district;  and  beneath  the  large  room,  are  Shambles  eKtremel| 
clean  and  convenient,  reckoned  indeed  the  best  in  the  shi/e* 

Tlie  Market  is  on  Saturday,  and  is  always  well  supplied,  not 
only  with  articles  of  the  usual  kind,  but  with  considerable  rjuan* 
titiet  of  hopt  in  the  season.  The  corporation  have  much  im- 
proved the  market,  by  giving  up  all  the  tolls;  but  their  at- 
tempts to  stop  regrating  have  been  inefficacious  ;  and  this  must 
always  be  the  case  ;  far  regulations  which  can  be  of  any  avail 
will  operate  ac;ainst  the  fair  dealer,  whilst  the  iUlntentioned 
will  break  through  them,  trusting  to  chance  and  iheir  own 
ingenuity,  to  avoid  a  diacovery.  | 

Tbe 


NOTTVKGHAMiEI&E. 


f9S 


Tbe  Fain  are  two  in  ihe  year,  on  ihe  2M  of  March  and  9nd 

ofOctober»  for  horses  and  black  cattle;  there  was  fmuicrly 
mnother  at  the  feast  of  Tiuiity,  but  it  has  been  some  tioie  di&con' 
tinued. 

The  Tradt:  of  Retford,  at  tbe  beginning  of  the  last  century* 
was  much  in  barley  for  mahing;  but  Worksop  has  taken  away 
great  pait  of  it.  Its  Mamifacturci  at  present  consist  of  hattt  a 
mill  for  candlewick,  and  a  paper  mill;  and  there  has  long  been 
a  sailcloth  manufactory  establisbed.  The  Worsted  milt,  at* 
tempted  tome  years  ago  by  Major  Cartwright^  no  longer  exists. 
We  know  not  the  reascm  of  its  I'ailuie  :  the  plan  was  certainly 
both  judicious  and  patriotic;  but  we  are  told  that  many  indivi- 
duals were  ruined  in  consequence  of  its  want  of  success. 

In  1799j  an  Agricultural  Society  was  formed  here  utider  ihe 
auspices  of  Colonei  Eyre,  tbe  Mar^^uis  of  Ticbfield,  (present 
Duke  of  Portland,)  Viscount  Newark^  &;c. ;  it  has  already  be- 
stowed many  premiums,  axid  has  been  of  considerable  advantage 
to  the  vicinity* 

About  a  mile  from  the  town  is  a  well  of  extremely  cold  water, 
called  Si,  John's  Well;  it  was  ^unous  for  many  cures  in  the 
early  part  of  tbe  last  century,  but  seems  to  have  lost  muchof  ilt 
notoriety.  No  aUem|)t  has  been  made  to  bring  it  into  repute^ 
though  a  probable  consetjuent  resort  ofcompauy  would  be  bene* 
ficial  to  the  place ;  but  this  is  perhaps  owing  to  what  we  un* 
derstand  lo  be  a  circum scribed  state  of  sociability  in  Retford  ; 
for  though  there  are  assemblies  held  at  the  Angel  Inn  during  tbe 
winter,  yet  society  is  separated,  and  those  who  consider  them- 
selves as  the  first  class  are  principally  engaged  in  the  amuse- 
ments of  iheir  own  domestic  circles. 

West  Retfoiii>  is  very  small,  and  has  an  ancient  church  de- 
dicated to  St.  Michael,  with  a  spire  upon  a  s<j*iare   tower^  and 
some   old  monumental  stones,    but  none  of  antiquarian   im- 
^^^  portance. 

^^m  Dorrtts  Hospital  was  founded  in  IG66  by  John  Dorrel^ 
■  M*  D*  The  original  plan  was  for  ten  men,  but  the  trustees 
^^^  T  4  have 


^dS  HOTTlVOHAMShiM. 

Aare  added  accommodations  for  six  more.  It  is  now  a  low  an4 
ancient  looking  edifice,  in  the  centre,  with  two  advanced  wings 
of  the  same  style;  bat  there  are  two  advanced  fronts  of  modern 
erection  in  the  Mezzo  Gothic,  done  with  some  degree  of  taste* 
and  the  whol^  forming  an  interesting  object  in  the  outskirts  of 
the  village  on  the  road  by  Babworth  to  Worksop.  It  now  sup- 
ports sixteen  brethren,  who  have  10/.  per  annnm  each,  with 
clothing,  coals,  &c.  part  of  a  garden  each,  an  orchard  for  the 
whole ;  and,  as  they  have  honest  trustees,  they  live  in  comfort 
under  good  rules.  It  is  dedicated  to  the  Holy  Trinity;  and  the 
Subdean  of  Lincoln  is  always  the  master. 

This  village  f  uiTered  considerably  in  the  heavy  flood  which 
took  place  in  1795,  and  rose  to  the  height  of  three  feet  in  the 
inarket  place.  The  torrent  not  only  tore  up  the  pavement  in 
several  places,  but  actually  destroyed  some  houses.  Since  the 
Chesterfield  canal  was  finished.  West  Retford  has  progressively 
flourished,  and  may  now  be  reckoned  a  pleasaiit  thriving 
place. 

fVest  Re(ford  HaU  is  in  its  immediate  yicinity,  and  is  a  seat 
of  the  Emerson  family.  An  extensive  lawn,  watered  by  a  gen- 
tle stream,  and  highly  ornamented  with  thriving  groups  of 
trees  and  shrubs,  lies  before  its  principal  front,  and  though 
lying  on  a  flat,  yet  the  home  views  are  very  pleasing,  and  may 
be  considered  extensive.  It  is  a  matter  of  great  boast  here,  that 
his  Royal  Highness  the  Prince  of  Wales  spoke  highly  of  its  situ- 
ation in  one  of  his  journies  from  the  north. 

It  may  be  interesting  to  those  locally  connected  wth  Retford* 
to  trace  its  history  in  times  comparatively  recent;  we  there- 
fore give  the  entry  in  the  visitation  of  Sir  Richard  St.  George^ 
Norroy  king  of  arms  in  1614.* 

"  The  town  and  borough  of  East  Radford  in  the  county  of 
Nottingham  is  the  Kingstown,  and  hath  been  an  auncient  borough 
as  appearclh  by  an  auncient  grante  made  by  Edward  the  second, 
who  graunted  the  town  in  fee  farm  to  the  burgesses  of  the  same, 

paying 

•  Ilail.  Coll.  p.  1400.  3. 


NOTTIKGHAMIHIRS* 


paying  X.  ^'>*  IL  and  giving  them  power  to  choose  baytiff«  fur 
tile  go?ernment  of  the  said  townc.  Hen.  3  gninted  Ihcni  a 
fay  re.  Edward  3  exempted  them  from  all  tolls  and  tnreigit 
seri^isses*  Hen.  6  gave  them  a  court  of  record  to  hold  plea  of 
action  without  imitation  of  same,  and  lo  execute  the  odjce 
of  Eacheaior  and  clerke  of  ihe  markett|  with  many  other  liber* 
ties. 

*' AM  which  privileges  have  been  from  time  to  time  cnnfiroicd 
by  the  several  kinges  and  queenes  of  this  land;  and  now  lastly 
our  Gracious  Sovereign  Lord,  King  James,  in  the  fil\h  year  of 
his  reign  did  not  only  confirm  ail  former  graunteji  made  by  his 
predecessors,  but  also  incorporated  it  anew  by  the  name  of  bay- 
lilFs  and  burgesses,  and  appointed  the  same  to  be  (joverncd  by 
two  bayliiFs  and  likewise  twelve  aldermen  to  make  a  Common 
Council  for  the  town;  also  they  shall  have  a  common  eeale, 
with  power  to  alter  it  at  their  pleas\ire;  and  Ihat  the  two  bay- 
lifis  for  the  time  being,  and  the  learned  steward,  shall  be  justice^ 
of  the  peace  and  cjuorum,  within  the  said  borough. 

*'  And  at  ihh  present  visitation  (1614,)  was  Nicholai  Watson, 
and  Thomas  Draper,  Baylifls;  and  those  following  aldermen, 
viz.  Wiiiiani  Thornton,  Robert  Wharton,  John  Jepson,  Richard 
Elsham,  Richard  Parnell,  Rubert  Stock  ham,  William  Hellamy* 
Fiancis  Barker,  Martin  Taylor,  William  Bayley,  Robert  Hud- 
son, and  William  Dickins:  the  Right  Honourable  Gilbert  Earl 
of  Shrewsbyry,  High  Steward;  Sir  RicJiard  Williamson,  Knt* 
Learned  Steward  ;  Robert  Brown,  Town  Gierke;  and  two  Ser- 
jeants at  Mace. 

"  This  town  hath  two  burgesses  of  the  Parliamenl*  Signed^  Ni- 
cholas Watson — Thomas  Draper — Robert  Brown." 

This  corporation  has  long  been  lu  possession  of  much  landed 
property^  considerable  part  of  which,  consisting  of  hop  plan- 
tations, is  highly  valuable.  Formerly  they  had  a  power  both 
of  hanging  and  transporting  at  this  place  ;  but  that  unpleasant 
part  of  municipal  jurisdiction  has  been  removed  for  some  years 
to  the  county  town* 

t  ^bt 


?98 


KOTTIKOaAMftlflEft. 


The  elective  franchise  U  in  the  bailill&y  aldermen^  ai 
Bi«n;  ihe  latter  cf  ivhom  are  indehniLe,  andnotobUg 
re«iident :    the  patrimooial   right,   however^  mherited  by    ih« 
eldest  son,  itiust  depend  upon  his  local  nativity.    The  taodetof 
acquiring  the  freedom,  independent  of  inheritance,  are  two; 
by  servitude  of  seven  yearns  apprenticeship  to  a  freemaiij  actu- 
ally within  the  limits  of  the  borough ;  or  by  redemption^  which 
is  by  the  gift  of  the  bailiOs  and  aldermen;  these  latter^  how- 
ever, at  the  time  when  they  receive  their  freedonij  most  be  in 
habitant  householders ;  yet^  if  they  leave  the  place«  oa  the  UA 
lowing  day^  their  rights  remain  unimpeachable. 

Like  all  other  small  boroughs,  this  place  had  for  many  yei 
been  a  scene   of  di^sen«ion»  both  from  Parliamentary  and  mi 
nlcipa)  cauaes.     With  respect  to  the  first,  ihey  have  avoid 
Parliamentary  interference  belweea  the  corporation  and  the  free- 
men, by  a  kind  of  tacit  agreement  by  which  each  party  h  sup* 
posed  to  return  a  member;  and  with  respect  to  the  second,  it 
has  been  settled  by  the  Court  of  King*!>  Bench^  even  so  latf  as 
I797t  ^^bo  decreed  "  that  all  bye  lavvj»  ^hall  be  ipao  facto  inta* 
)id>  which  take  upon  them  to  enact  matters  which  contradict  or 
oppose  the  charter.** 

Like  all  other  places,  wealth  and  interest  will  always  have 
their  influenccj  and  the  Newcastle  lamily  have  been  supposed 
to  be  the  principal  favourites  of  the  corporation;  in  1797,  how, 
ever,  this  influence  was  opposed  by  Sir  William  Amcots,  and 
Mr  Petrie,  which  for  some  time  mmle  it  an  open  borough.  But 
at  til e  election  of  IS06,  Geni^ral  Crawford  came  in  at  the  head  of 
the  pollj  having  98  votes;  his  colleague,  Mr.  HugbaH>  poll- 
ing 80;  whilst  the  unsuccessful  candidate,  Sir  John  Ingleby, 
could  not  muster  more  tliau  69.  The  whole  number  of  electors 
has  been  estimated  at  15(i;  but  we  believe  that  now  there  arft^^ 
rather  mot  c,  mB 

The  freemen  have  been  rather  unfortunate  in  their  attempts 
to  tttfranehiae  themselves;  but  this  will   always  be  the  case, 
where  the  attempt  is  not  made  upon  true  indepeil4<?tit  princi- 
ples. 


IffOTTlNOH  AM  SHIRK. 


pics.  If  representatives  ^re  always  to  be  chosen  either  by  the 
3ilent,but  sure,  influence  of  aristocracy,  or  by  the  danioar  of  a 
few  discontented,  or  interested  individuab^  who,  by  fiery  boasts 
of  patriotism  and  flaming  promises  of  reform,  &c,  either  per- 
miade  or  frighten  the  ignorant  mass  of  the  electors  to  choose 
the  favourite  of  the  day,  then  the  cry  of  constitutiyna!  iiiUe- 
petidence  is  but  an  empty  sound  ;  nor  will  it  ever  be  any  thing 
better,  until  the  electors  come  to  a  resolution  to  reform  them- 
selves^  and  to  be  prompted  in  their  choice  by  no  principle  but 
that  of  selecting  men  of  sense,  information,  and  honesty,  and 
who  at  the  same  time  have  a  stake  in  the  welfare  of  the  country 
at  large,  of  more  importance  than  mere  temporary  personal  in- 
ierest.  In  fact,  until  this  is  done,  they  will  sometimes  feel  it 
difiicutt  to  find  a  proper  person  for  their  representative,  when 
they  honestly  wish  to  repress  undue  iufltjence  ■  a  truth,  which 
we  believe  will  not  be  denied;  a  truth,  at  least,  of  which  we 
believe  many  instances  could  be  produced.  In  short,  according 
to  the  too  frequent  practice  of  borough  oppojtitions  at  the  pre* 
sent  day,  an  honest  moderate  nian  is  afraid  to  trust  to  a  party 
led  perhaps  by  a  few  hot  headed  individuals  who,  under  the  in* 
flueuce  of  a  temporary  spirit  of  patriotism,  or  of  interested 
motives,  are  not  always  guided  by  cool  resolution  or  by  a  juft 
sense  of  their  coontry't  good. 

Mr.  Oldfield  in  his  "  Histovy  of  Boroughs,**  mentions  a  di»- 
appoiatment,  something  of  his  kind,  which  took  place  at  Ret- 
ford, #hen  the  freemen  oil e red  their  votes  to  Major  Cart- 
wright,  who  although  he  had  established  a  manufactory  which 
gt  that  period  employed  upwards  of  600  pfopkj  and  of  course 
waa  well  qualified  to  be  a  representative  burgess,  yet  he 
^'hose  to  decline  it,  however;  and,  though  rheauthui  quoted  has 
lK>t  told  m  the  reason  why,  it  may  ratiunally  be  suppoH'd  that 
a  fear  of  trusting  too  much  to  pop uiar  favour  ma.y  tuve  influ* 
lenced  that  gentleman^  in  addition  to  other  motives  equally 
honourable, 

TU^re  aeem^  U»  have  been  £ome  interruption  in  the  elective 

franchise 


VOTffSOIfJIJfSHlEX. 


ftancbice  of  thU  borough  ;  €ar  libofigli  iliey  leot  i 


f>f  Eiiw37d  tli«  secoad,  yetliielr 
period  mitti  the   IStli  of 


to  Faj^inmeni  in  the  n 
ngfit  lay  dortnant   Ir 

Th«  CmHiffi  are  cIUt  i  as  lamr  anU  j«M»ar  ;  the  ibmicf 

attr^ys  cho^^en  rroin  a  .,  ...^     :.j€  aldermrii;  and  the  biter  fpoai 
soch  rrremen  as  hare  served  the  oflSce  of  chamber  lain. 

In  |>foceciIiMg  to  investigate  the  North  emteng  dmrict  oftfie 
6o«nty,  ttie  totimt  will  keep  for  a  short  distance" on  the  great 
Borth  road  toward«  Banrtry,  and  half  a  mtfe  beyoti^  tbe  two 
M»ik  »(<>ne,  will  find  a  cross  road  which  leads  him  IoScttom,  m 
popolous  village  on  the  rights  the  tower  of  it  hose  small  yet 
vciitrsibte  ch»jfch  forms  a  directing  object,  pleasingly  backed 
by  the  iwelling  hills  towards  Mattersy.  The  parish  t5  called 
''Sutton  cum  Lound;''  and  Lowfit/ ci»mmonly  called,  though 
corruptly,  **  Lound  in  the  Morning**  is  a  hamlet  near  to  it 

Mlacow,  or  Bacca  HiU,  now  presents  itself,  a  gently  t 
emtnencct  topped  with  a  very  picturesque,  imleed  elegftnlj  farrf 
bouse  and  ollices  in  the  style  of  an  Italian  villa,  and  forming  a 
most  pleading  object  tii  the  landscape.  This  was  erected  by 
JonaThan  Acklnm,  Esq.af  Wiseton  Hall ;  but  is  only  one  among 
many  of  his  very  patriotic  and  tasteful  improvements  in  thf$ 
neighbourhood.  The  plantations  aromtd  it  are  laid  out  with 
grvat  ta«lc  and  jfidgement ;  so  us  to  make  it  literally  a  J 
#niec.  In  this  neighbourhood  are  ihe  remains  of  many  Danii 
and  Saxon  antiquities,  but  most  of  which  are  unfortututely  inl 
gn^at  measure  obliterated  by  the  plough,  and  by  paring  and 
bttrning*  liuccu  ik  said  to  signify  a  burying  ground,  in  the  old 
Ilinish,  which  is  fully  exemplified  by  the  circular  range  of  bar- 
rows on  ilie  north  front  of  the  hill  j  some  of  thom  clumped  wit! 
firs;  and  ollrers  nearly  levelled.  A  very  large  tumulus  is  sai^ 
to  have  been  here  not  many  years  ago;  this,  however,  is  gone^ 
but  \\  is  most  likely  thnt  tlje  hill  has  been  both  an  encampment 
iinda  burying  pkice.  In  the  valley  also,  to  the  northward  of  it,  are 
Mime  slight  vestiges  uf  earthen  moumlSj  which  the  tradition  of 

the 


KOTTIKOnAHSQlRB. 


301 


Ih^  vicifiUy  refers  to  the  same  origin ;  and  Pusto  Hill  is  coa- 
stdered  as  another  specimen  of  ibe  warlike  genius  of  our  Danish 
fnvaciers, 

iVI  ATT  ERSE  Y  next  presents  kself,  a  gcnleel,  yel  f^ery  retired 
village  on  a  gentle  rise,  and  ha?ing  some  very  handsome  man- 
sions. It  Mras  the  property  of  Earl  Tosli  before  the  Conquest; 
afterwards  a  family  was  here,  who  took  their  name.  Be  Mattersvy, 
or  Maresey,  but  ended  in  an  heiress  Isabel  married  to  Chaucey* 
who  gave  the  village  to  the  monks  of  the  neighbouring  Gilbcrtin^S 
Abbey  fuynded  by  her  antestori.  After  those  geutlemeti  got 
k,  the  prior  had  free  warren,  and  there  was  also  a  market  and 
fair.  At  the  dissolution,  the  manor  was  granted  to  the  Neville 
family  whose  heiress  marrying  Sir  Wiiiiam  Hickman,  Oiat 
family  resided  here  in  the  early  purl  of  the  last  century :  their 
house  (Vtiil  remain!^,  and  is  a  genteel  and  comfortabte  residence 
of  a  private  gentleman.  The  present  lord  of  the  manor  it 
Jimathan  Ack]Dm»  Esq.  of  Wiseton  Hall. 

Letand  in  his  Itinerary  says,  "  from  Gainsborough  over  Trent 
yiito  Notinj^hanishire,  and  so  lo  Madersey  viUage  a  V.  niile'i^  2 
miles  be  tow  medowes,  and  S  be  cora  and  pasture  ground/* 

The  church  dedicated  to  All  Saints,  is  a  very  h^indsomc 
Gothic  edifice,  in  excelleiit  preser%'ation,  and  is  a  most  pleas- 
ing object  in  the  village*  It  has  soMie  curious  carvings  which 
%vere  discovered  some  years  ago  under  the  oJd  pavement  of  the 
chancel  floor,  and  of  which  Throsby  has  preserved  an  engrav* 
ing:  they  are  now  placed  against  the  south  wall  of  the  choir; 
but  only  one  of  them  is  d^cypherabie,  which  app^^ars  to  be  the 
benevolent  action  of  St.  Martin  dividing  his  cloak\  In  the 
reign  of  Edward  the  firbi,  this  church  was  appropriated  to  the 
priory,  to  make  them  amends  for  some  losses  they  had  sus- 
tained by  fire.  There  was  also  here  a  chauntry  dedicated  to 
St.  Jolm  the  Baptist. 

A  handsome  stone  bridge  over  the  river  Idle  is  not  only  of 
great  use,  but  also  an  ornatncnt  to  the  village^  and    forms  an 

agreeable 


$06  vMTivaHAirsBrtiiii* 

agreeable  object  amidst  the  surrovndlttif  and  orerihadoiriiii; 
foKag^. 

About  half  a  mile  from  the  village  are  some  small  remsintof 
the  Gilbertine  priory/  dedicated  to  St.  Helen,  and  founded  for 
six  canons  by  Roger  Fttz  Raaatph  de  Maresey  before  1199; 
At  the  dissolution  it  was  faloed  at  601. 

A  (arm  house  now  stands  on  its  scite;  part  of  its  cloyatera, 
some  of  the  cellst  and  what  appears  to  hare  been  a  comer  of 
Its  churcb>  still  roaric  part  of  ita  boundaries ;  but  these  are  going 
fkst  todecay,  and  are  now  occupied' as  carthooses»  and  filled 
with  poultry  roosfs.  Yet  there  is  still  enough  led,  though  in 
detached  masses,  to  form  even  a  conspiceout  part  of  a  small 
Cbthic  residence,  if  its  situation  was  to  tempt  a  man  of  taste; 
but  it  stands  low,  and  though  the  scenery  around  it  is  pleasiiigly 
retired,  it  has  not  any  of  those  charms  soeght  after  hy  modem 
builders,  whose  primary  object  seems  to  be  to  see  and  be 
seen. 

Crossing  the  Idle  by  Mattersey  bridge,  a  pleasing  mtmi  road, 
shaded  by  extensive  plantations,  leads  to  Drakelaw,  the  priaci^ 
pal  building  in  which,  though  it  scarcely  can  be  called  a  ham^ 
fet,  is  the  Inn,  which  is  not  only  comfortable  and  commodious, 
but  forms  a  good  object  in  the  scenery  both  from  its  style  of 
building  and  situation,  being  erected  with  that  intention,  by  Mr. 
Acklom,  whose  long  life  seems  to  hare  been  principally  occu- 
pied in  improving  the  country  around  him.  This  is  also  one 
of  the  depots  for  the  Chesterfield  and  Trent  canal  which  passes 
by  here,  through  a  tunnel,  250  yards  in  length,  15  feet  high, 
and  of  the  same  width,  of  good  workmanship,  and  in  the  cutting 
of  which  many  coins  of  Constantino,  and  human  bones,  were 
found.  There  is  no  doubt  but  that  this  has  been  a  Roman  sta- 
tion ;  for  here  ran  a  Roman  road,  which,  though  nearly  obli- 
terated, has  yet  some  faint  traces,  and  was  evidently  connected 
with  the  neighbouring  station  of  Agelocumy  or  Littleboroogh. 

This  canal  pursues  a  winding  course  of  two  miles  through 

Mr.  AckVom's  estate,  and  the  turnpike  road  from  Gainsborough 

9  to 


I 


HOTTtirottAMSHIlll. 


503 


lo  Bawtry  goes  ofvr  it ;  the»e  pubUc  route*  of  cowrie  have  been 
itlenJtfd  with  the  u<tual  inconvtmience  to  the  neighboiiritig 
grounds,  but  the  worthy  and  judicious  owner,  by  a  well  |>lanr>ed 
system  of  pbatatitin,  has  remedied  Ihcir  inconvenience  in  a 
great  oieasure,  and  iRdeed  rendered  ibem  even  benuties  in  seme 
inatances. 

WisETON  Hall  standi  nearly  m  the  centre  af  the  manor  of 
which  Mr,  Acklom  is  sole  proprietor,  and  is  tn  Claworih  parish. 
It  was  origmally  ihe  residence  of  the  Nelthorpe  fBiiiily  ;  but 
was  purchased,  nearly  two  centuries  ago,  by  an  ancestor  of  the 
Ackloms,  an  ancient  Yorkshire  family,  oflen  honoured  with 
Knighthood  in  earlier  times,  when  that  title  was  conferred  for  im- 
portant services  to  the  state,  and  on  those  whofte  birlh  entitled 
them  to  it. 

Very  Httle  of  the  aticient  mansion  remains ;  the  present  one, 
partly  erected  on  it,  forms  a  handsome  elevation  of  a  centre 
three  story  high,  with  two  wings  of  one  lofty  story  each  :  the 
whole  light  and  airy,  and  accompanied  by  a  very  commodiou* 
range  ofofliiceH.  It  was  begun  by  the  late  Mr»  Acklom,  and 
finished  in  its  present  slate  by  its  now  venerable  owner;  its 
tituation,  though  not  commanding,  is  yet  highly  pleasing,  stand- 
ing rather  on  a  gentle  swell,  with  a  very  extensive  lawn  of  up* 
wards  of  thirty  acres  in  front,  finely  belted  by  trees  and  orna- 
mentai  shrubs,  and  judiciously  broken  at  Intervals  by  well  dis* 
posed  piciurescjue  clumps.  Though  its  situation  cannot  be 
called  a  commanding  one,  yet  tl»e  grounds  contain  most  exten* 
live  prospects  over  thd  four  surrounding  shires  of  York,  Lin* 
coin,  Notts,  and  Derby,  and  even  into  Cheshire  when  the 
weather  is  clear. 

The  whole  of  the  interior  arrangements  are  elegantly  modern ; 
and  though  it  is  by  no  means  a  show  house,  yet  tho&e  whom  the 
hospitality  of  its  worthy  owner  admit  to  its  friendly  resort,  will 
be  gratified  with  some  paintings,  which  are  not  the  levs  valua- 
ble for  being  few  in  number.  These  consist  of  an  original  of  Sir 
Robert  Cecil ;  another  pf  Henry  the  eighth;  both  by  tlolbein, 
I  th« 


ad#  VOTTIHOHAMSHIRB^ 

the  last  certamfyso;  a  curious  piece  of  poultry  by  Barlow,  a 
painter  of  such  eminence  as  to  have  been  engraved  by  Hollar; 
a  piece  of  still  life  from  the  pencil  of  Caravaggio  ;  another,  artist 
unknown,  but  extremely  well  done;  an  ancient  architectural 
piece;  and  two  modern  landscapes  done  with  marble  dust  of 
different  colours,  both  curious  and  elegant. 

The  whole  manor  is  so  well  wooded  as  to  appear  on6  gfeat 
ornamental  plantation ;  and  a  well  conducted  walk  round  the 
home  grounds  is  led  for  upwardsof  a  mile  in  a  circuitous  roole,- 
80  as  to  connect  the  exterior  woods  with  the  domestic  scenery. 
That  part  which  accoropanfies  the  canal  h  particularly  pleasing^ 
having  a  fine  prospect  of  the  well  wooded  eminences  on  the 
north  and  west  sides.  The  canal  too,  which  leads  to  Claworth^ 
has  been  rendered  a  pleasing  variety  in  domestic  arrangement  ;^ 
there  being  a  boat  on  it,  which  in  fine  weather  carries  the 
whole  family  to  their  parish  church. 

On  all  the  surrounding  eminences  Mr.  Acklom  has  judi« 
ciously  placed  his  new  built  farm  houses;  these  are  not  only  or- 
namental to  the  grounds,  and  indeed  to  the  whole  estate,  but 
have  even  proved  an  economical  measure,  notwithstanding 
their  small  extra  expense ;  as  houses  built  in  an  ornamental, 
yet  plain  strong  style,  are  most  easily  kept  in  repair^  the  oc- 
cupants being  in  some  measure  obliged  to  take  more  care  of 
them,  to  keep  them  cleaner,  and  to  have  much  less  agricul- 
tural lumber  about  tht^m,  than  is  generally  the  case  with  an  old 
farm  house,  and  which  not  only  stands  in  the  way  of  trifliug  re- 
pairs, but  in  fact  often  renders  them  necessary.* 

Everton  parish,  to  the  north  west,  contains  the  hamlet  of 
Scqt'lii;orth  holden  of  the  see  of  York,  to  which  Richard  Ack*- 

lom, 

•  "  Jonathan  Ackloni,  Esq.  of  Wiseton,  on  tlic  intlosore  of  Wis^tooj  Mat- 
tcrsey,  Everton,  Missoii,  and  Scrooby,  pnrsued  the  plan  of  placing  new  farni 
houses  central  to  their  respective  grounds,  and  completed  sdven  with  large  ap- 
purtenances, dove  cotes,  granaries,  ct»w-hoa$os,  &c.  The  same  has  been' 
done  more  or  less  in  othei  new  inclusurcs." 

Vide  i:>>we*s'Stirvey  6t  KJttt: 


VOTTIKOIIAMSHIRS. 


505 


loTHi  Esq*  the  present  proprieior,  pays  a  quit  rent^  lioldmg  with 
it  free  warren  in  the  archiepiscopal  paramount  manor  of  the 
j>oke  of  SouthweJL  During  the  iiiclosure  uf  ibis  manor  several 
specimens  of  Eoman  antiquities  have  been  founJ^  particufurly 
part  ofa  spear,  and  some  fragments  of  urns  }  a  discovery  which 
seems  in  some  measure  to  settle  the  origin  and  chronology  of 
some  vestiges  of  fortiiicationSy  thence  justly  conclude  J  to  have 
been  a  Roman  Citation. 

In  a  small  tongue  of  the  county,  running  between  York  and 
Lincolnshire,  stands  Finningity,  a  large  village*  with  a  church 
dedicated  to  St,  O^^waidj  but  containing  only  some  modern 
sepulchral  memorials.  Here  is  a  school,  whicti  was  first  begun 
and  maintained  by  the  minister  of  the  parish  ;  but  which ,  about 
a  century  ago,  was  so  improved  by  the  charitable  contributions 
of  the  neighbouring  gentry,  as  to  clotbe  and  educate  eigbt  boys. 

This  lordship  was  originally  the  property  of  the  Frobisfurr 
family  ;  of  which  was  Martin  FroHshcr  an  enterprizing  navi- 
gator, who  was  sent  out  by  queen  Elizabeth  with  three  sliips  in 
15G7,  in  hopes  of  discovering  a  north-west  passage  to  India, 
Having  proceeded  as  far  as  Labrador,  be  was  stopped  by  the 
approach  of  winter,  but  returned  with  a  quantity  of  gold  mar- 
C|isite»   or  pyrites  aureus,  which  tempted   ihc  members  of  the 

Society  for  Promoting  Discovery,"  to  send  out  three  otbtr 
ships  in  1577,  under  Frobishcr*s  command.  In  ihi:*  second 
voyage  he  discovered  the  Straight,  now  known  by  his  name, 
but  was  again  stopped  by  the  ice  j  and  having  taken  on  board 
more  of  this  glittering  substance^  then  supposed  to  be  gold,  ho 
returned  to  England. 

Soon  afler  this«  queen  Elisabeth  determineil  to  form  a  settle* 
nt  in  these  countries,  and  a  fleet  of  fifteen  small  vessels  with 

en  and  necessaries  was  again  sent  out  under  Piobisher's  com- 

and  :  but  he  could  not  get  so  far  as  he  had  gone  in  his  preced* 
log  voyages;  so  that  they  soon  after  returned,  and  Frobisher 
seems  to  have  given  up  all  further  attempts  at  discovery. 

MissoN  lies  to  the  southward  of  Fiuningley  ;  it  was  anciently 

Vol,  XIL  U  caUed 


d06  VUTTIHGHAMSUIRE. 

called  Mime,  or  Myssen,  as  ii|  supposed  from  its  intermixtire 
with  Lincolnshire^  being,  even  at  the  present  day«  partly  in  the 
two  counties.  It  seems  to  have  followed  the  same  <teacent  as 
the  lands  in  its  vicinity ;  for  it  belonged  first  to  the  fiunily  of 
Maresey,  then  to  the  prior  and  monks  of  Mattersey,  and,  after 
several  other  changes,  is  now  vested  in  Richard  Acklotn, .  Esq. 
who  is  impropriator.  It  has  long  had  the  advantage  of  a  water 
communication  with  the  Trent*  for,  before  the  present  canal 
was  cot,  the  Idle  was  thus  fax  navigable. 

The  scenery  around  it  is  of  a  very  curious  kind,  consisting 
of  a  widely  extended  plain,  level  as  the  surface  of  a  calm  sea, 
and  presenting  to  the  spectator  the  idea  of  space  tmboonded, 
when  seen  from  the  neighboaring  heights.  In.fiict  it  is  quite 
distinct  and  different  from  what  is  meant  by  z  plain  in  the  com- 
mon acceptation  of  the  word^  or,  as  Mr.  Gilpin  has  very  judi- 
ciously  described  another  appearance  of  the  same  nature,  "  the 
idea  of  this  kind  which  such  scenes  as  Salisbury  plain  suggest, 
is  much  less  pure.  The  inequality  of  the  ground  there,  sets 
bounds  to  the  idea.  It  b  the  ocean  in  a  storm ;  in  which  the 
idea  of  extension  is  greatly  broken,  and  intercepted,  by  the  tur- 
bulence of  the  ^vaves-^this  gives  us  the  idea  of  solid  water, 
rather  than  of  land,  if  we  except  only  the  colour. 


-interminable  meads. 


And  vast  Savannahs,  where  the  wandring  eye 
Unfix'd,  is  in  a  verdant  ocean  lost." 

This,  like  the  plain  he  described,*  is  one  of  those  extensive 
tracts  from  which  the  sea,  in  a  course  of  ages,  has  retired.  With 
the  eye  it  seems  impossible  to  fix  iu  limits,  for  it  ranges  many 
miles  in  every  direction,  and  softens  at  last  into  the  azure 
distance  of  Yorkshire,  whilst  its  foreshortening  is  partly  marked 
by  long  lines  of  inclosure  studded  with  villages,  and  dim  dis* 
covered  spires. 

MisTERTON  is  in  this  vicinity  ;  and  has  long  been  a  consi- 
derable 
^Burgb  Marsh  in  Cumberland. 


NOTTINO  H  A  MSH  ift  £• 


ao7 


derable  villagej  but  mucb  iniproted  of  late  by  the  canal  wbtch 
passes  close  to  it*  It  has  a  church  dedicated  to  All  S.iints^  and^ 
ibough  in  what  /toj  been  a  retired  situation,  wasi  remarkable  for 
holding  the  |>1aces  of  assembly  of  other  sects ;  for  Throsby  ob> 
serves,  "  here  are  Catholic^  Methodist,  and  Calvinist  places  of 
worship,  whitberj  over  some  roads  iatolerably  bad,  the  sectaries 
from  the  neighbouring  villages  resort." 

Stocicwith  is  a  bamlei  of  Mlsterton  ;  but^  having  the  advan* 
tag«f  of  being  situated  at  the  junction  of  the  canal  with  the 
Trent,  it  bids  fair  to  become  a  flourishing  place;  in  f^ct  to  be* 
come,  like  Stoiarport  in  Worcestershire,  a  new  creation* 

Walkejiinghaw,  ihough  a  mile  from  theTrtnt,  is  so  far  con- 
nected with  it  as  to  have  a  ferry  :  it  is  a  very  considerable  vil- 
lage, with  a  large  church  dedicated  lo  St.  Mary  Magdak'n;  but 
the  rectory  being  impropnate,  ^he  vicar  has  only  a  large  parish 
and  small  profits.  Though  tlat>  yet  the  country  around  is  plea- 
sant from  lis  populousness  and  cultivation* 

OswALDEuec  id  in  this  neighbourhood,  and  is  in  such  decay 
as  to  be  undeserving  of  notice^  were  it  not  that  it  hdd  given 
name  originally  to  the  hundred.  Nor  should  we  have  thought 
it  necessary  to  have  named  Beckinguam  were  it  not  that  it  b 
one  of  the  prebends  of  SouthwelU  and  in  further  remarkable  as 
the  place  of  nativity  of  Dr*  Howell^  who  has  been  justly  called 
the  laborious  author  of  the  History  of  the  World,  and  of  some 
others,  about  the  latter  end  of  the  seveoteenih  century. 

GafNDLEY  ON  THE  HlLL,  auciently  '*  Greenalege,"  is  tery 
descriptively  calKed  so  from  its  lofty  situation  on  a  hill  overlook- 
ing the  wide  extent  of  Misson  Car  already  described.  On  this 
spot  there  are  several  swelling  mounds,  whicli,  were  it  not  for 
their  size,  might  be  supposed  ariitiuial  from  their  very  bases :  on 
them,  however,  have  been  thrown  up  three  others  in  ancient 
times ;  a  small  one  to  the  west  of  the  church,  and  two  large  ones 
on  its  eastern  side.  These  are  evid  enlly  the  remains  of  Saxon  or 
Danish  works;  and  the  part,  which  U  still  called  "  the  Parks/' 
is  traditionally  recorded  to  have  belonged  to  a  Saxon  Lord. 

US  The 


SOB  iroTttvaHAiC8aia,£. 

The  tillage  is  extetisire,  though  not  vety  large  with  respect 
to  its  number  of  houses,  which  are  mostly  the  residences  of  the 
farmers  who  hold  the  neighbouring  lands.  The  church  is  a  very 
handsome  edifice,  is  dedicated  to  St  Peter  and  St.  Paul,  and 
under  this  double  guarantee  seems  to  hare  been  well  taken  care 
of,  for  it  is  well  paved  in  the  inside  and  kept  very  clean,  whibt 
its  pinnacled  tower  forms  a  fine  object  in  the  landscape. 
Throsby  records  a  curious  epitaph  of  an  old  lady,  Winifrid  Ver- 
non, who  is  made  to  address  the  reader  in  a  way  which  some 
wicked  wits  hare  interpreted  very  differently  from  the  good 
lady's  meaning.  It  is  certainly  whimsical,  but  its  interpreta- 
tion too  gross  to  be  permitted  to  sully  our  pages. 

Upon  the  whole  this  place  will  afford  amusement  to  three 
classes  of  tourists ;  to  him  who  can  play  upon  and  laugh  at  a 
sepulchral  joke  upon  aged  maidenhood  ;  to  hin  who  is  pleased 
with  extensive  and  curiously  contrasted  prospects ;  and  to  him 
who  can  feast  upon  antiquarian  reflections ;  for  these  latter  must 
rise  rapidly  in  any  man's  mind  who  contemplates  this  spot, 
which,  having  Iain  out  of  the  track  of  former  antiquarian  tourists^ 
seems  to  offer  a  rich  mine  to  those  who  will  investigate  it- 
Horsley  and  Stukeley  seem  both  to  have  been  so  occupied  with 
Agelocum  in  the  vicinity,  as  to  have  almost  entirely  overlooked 
this  place :  but  we  have  no  doubt  that  an  investigation,  pursued 
upon  the  plan  of  that  of  the  indefatigable  Sir  Richard  Hoare  on 
Salisbury  plain,  would  amply  repay  any  trouble  or  expense 
incurred,  and  perhaps  throw  considerable  light  upon  the  early 
history  of  this  part  of  the  kingdom. 

Claworth  is  a  pleasing  little  rural  village  on  the  banks  of  the 
canal ;  its  church  is  strictly  in  unison  with  the  place,  and  its 
Gothic  tower,  and  almost  darkened  pointed  windosrs,  suit  well 
with  the  gloom  produced  by  the  overhanging  foliage.  To  him 
who  would  retire  from  society,  without  ffying  to  a  desart* 
Claworth  olfers  an  asylum*  as  his  repose  would  never  be  dis- 
turbed except  on  the  sabbath,  when  the  neighbouring  gentry 
assemble  at  divine  service.    The  church  is  dedicated  to  St. 

Peter, 


irOTTIKOHAltSHIlll. 


S09 


Peter,  tnd  contains  several  monuments  af  the  FiUvvilHamsnd 
Ack'lom  families;  and  the  present  venerable  representative  of 
the  latter  family  has  here  placed  a  stone  to  the  memory  of  a 
faithful  servant,  John  BoUomley,  who  had  lived  in  the  iaraily, 
and  as  steward,  for  7^  years;  having  lived  with  three  genera* 
lions,  and  seen  the  fifth ;  he  died  in  177$  at  the  age  of  85» 

Nation  \&  a  very  long,  but  no  otherwise  remarkable,  village  ; 
nor  Is  Qturhorougk  deserving  of  particular  notice,  though  a 
clean  comfortable  place,  with  some  excellent  houses:  and  at 
Tihf,  a  small  hamltt,  we  have  only  to  notice  the  probability 
of  its  having  been  formerly  a  place  of  some  consequence,  as 
many  Roman  anric|uities,  particularly  a  itylus  and  several 
agates  and  cornelians  with  inscriptions  and  engravings,  have 
been  dug  up  here  some  years  ago* 

North  and  South  Wkcailey,  and  Saundby,  are  principally  in- 
habited by  farmers,  whose  farms  are  occupied  by  dairies;  and 
great  quantities  of  butter  are  sent  from  their  neighbourhood  into 
the  principal  manufacturing  towns  of  York  and  I^ncashires, 

Sire t ion  is  a  village  containing  some  good  houses  ;  its  ancient 
church  dedicated  to  Su  Peter,  with  its  light  and  airy  pinnacled 
lower,  fs  kept  in  Tery  good  order,  and  has  some  ancient  monn* 
mentsofthe  Thnrnhaughs  and  HewetlK,  &:c» 

LtTTLEftoRoi9QM,  though  HOW  a  Small  place,  has  employed 
the  pens  of  most  of  our  antitinariii4  with  respect  to  its  con- 
nection with  the  Itinerary  of  Antoninus.  Camden  expressly 
considered  it  as  the  Agelomm  or  Segetocum  of  that  Itinerary, 
(for  it  is  spelled  both  ways,}  both  on  account  of  its  standing  or 
the  military  way,  and  of  the  great  number  of  Roman  imperial 
coins  often  dug  up  here,  in  his  time,  and  then  called  swine 
pennies,  from  their  being  so  near  the  surface  of  the  ground  as 
to  be  rooted  up  by  those  animals.  It  is  true,  indeed,  that  in  his 
first  edition  of  the  "  Britannia"  in  1591,  he  had  fixed  this  station 
I  at  Idleton,  or  Eaton,  supposing  that  in  the  transcription  of  names 
■  4gtiocum  had  been  written  for  Adelocum,  and  to  this  suppo- 
K  titioQ  he  then  trusted,  without  considering  that  the  Agelocum 
I  U  3  of 

li 


810  votTiiTGHinimniii 

of  Antoniirat  bad  9i  ferry  aver  the  T)reni,  and  which  is  continuefl 
at  Littleborough  to  this  day,  constitothig  pelrhfips  t)ie  olde§i 
eueiomary  uiage  in  the  empire,  and  that  n^ithout  let  or  intermp* 
tion.  Thoroton  was  of  the  same  opinion  with  Camden  respecting 
the  fixing  of  the  station  at  Eaton ;  but  this  be  did  from  a  cook 
parison  of  the  distances  on  the  iter,  and  from  a  cmrioaa  coitm* 
dence  of  the  British  and  Roman  names ;  for  Id,  in  the  Bri- 
tish, signifies    corn ;    therefore    Id  and    ton   may  signify    a 
''place  of  corn/' bearing  a  strong  resemblance  to  the  Roman 
Segelockm,      Ba    if  Caitiden    in    his  early    opinions    fargot 
the  ferry,  so  Thoroton  seems  to  have  jumped  over  a  xiftr,  not 
recounting  that  Idleton  is  the  town  on  the  Idie.    It  would 
indeed  be  an  idle  business  to  pursue  these  reverici  any  farther; 
w6  may  just  observe,  therefore,  that  Burton  in  his  notes  upon  the 
Itinerary,  places  Agelocam  or  Segelocum,  (for  he  shears  that 
the  Romans  indiscriminately  used,  or  omitted,  the  S)  at  little* 
borough,  in  which  ho  is  followed  by  Stukdy,  who  thinks,  how«k 
ever,  that  Segelocum  may  have  been  a  corruption  of  the  ortgi* 
nal  name  in  later  times.     His  description  of  ii  at  the  early  part 
of  last  century,  is  that  it  is  a  small  Village  three  miles  above 
Gainsborough,  justupon  the  edge  of  the  water,  and  in  ah  angle. 
AgeUAuk  from  Frons  Aqua  he  thinks  a  pertinent  etjnotiology ; 
and  adds  that  it  seems  only  to  have  been  environed  by  a  single 
ditch,  of  a  square  form,  with  the  water  running  quite  round  it* 
for  to  the  west  where  Whitesbridge  is,  there  is  a  watery  valley 
which  hems  it  in,  so  that  it  was  a  station  of  considerable  strength* 
The  church,  as  he  observes, stands  upon  the  highest  ground  ^  and 
the  Trent  had  not  only  washed  away  part  of  the  eastern  side  of  the 
town,but  foundations  and  pavements  were  then  visible  in  thebank. 
In  1684,  when  the  inclosures  between  the  bridge  and  town 
were  first  plowed  up,  many  coins  of  Nerva,  Trajan,  Hadrian^ 
Constantine,  &c.  were  found,  together  with  Intaglios  of  Agate^ 
and   Cornelian,  the  finest  coloured   urns    and    patera,   some 
wrought  in  basso  relievo,  with  the  workman's  name  generally 
impressed  on  the  inside  of  the  bottom  f  also  a  DUcus,  or  Quoit^ 

with 


SOTTINCHAMSBIKI. 


Oil 


wilh  an  emperor's  head  embossed  on  it.  Agaln^  in  171 8*  two 
very  handsomely  moulded  aitars  were  dug  up,  and  then  set  up 
as  piers  in  a  wall  on  the  side  of  the  stepa  which  led  from  the 
waterside  to  the  inn.  Stukely  adds^  that  near  White's  bridge, 
he  had  seen  extensive  fuundations  of  ancient  buildings;  and 
that  in  dry  seasons,  and  when  the  tide  was  low,  coins  were  then 
often  tbund  at  low  water  mark. 

To  continue  the  chronological  order  of  antiquarian  research, 
it  is  necessary  to  menlion  that  Horsley*  decidedly  sajs,  '*  i?c- 
gelocum  and  Agelocuiu,  as  called  in  two  iters,  is  certainly  Lit* 
tleborough^  Here  Dr,  Gale  saw  an  urn  which,  besides  a&hea 
and  bones,  cont^ned  a  coin  of  Domitian.  The  Homaa  station 
has  been  on  the  east  side  of  the  river,  though  the  town  stands 
on  the  west." 

Pegge  also,t  gives  a  letter  from  Mr,  Ella,  vicar  of  Rainpton 
near  this  place,  in  which  he  says  that  in  1701,  ferrying  over 
the  Trent  into  Nottinghamshire,  he  observed  in  the  opposite 
banki  washed  away  by  the  water,  one  of  the  Coralline  coloured 
urns.  It  was,  however,  broken  in  pieces,  but  contained  bones' 
and  also  a  coin  of  Domitian*  He  does  not  think,  however,  that 
the  principal  station  was  on  the  east  side,  but  says  that  the 
Roniiins  seem  to  have  had  a  summer  camp  on  the  east  side  of  the 
river,  though  tillage  had  then  destroyed  all  traces  of  it. 

To  such  an  host  of  observations  and  conject-ures  it  is  linpos* 
sible  for  us  to  add  any  thing ;  except  merely  to  say  that  tho 
antiqtiary,  though  he  will  nowiind  nothing  to  gi*atify  curiosity  at 
ihisspoi,  will  still  be  able  to  tread,  with  reverential  awe,  that 
ground  which  is  hallowed  by  the  remembrance  of  past  ages; 
and  here  may  he  contemplate  the  striking  changes  of  political 
power,  and  of  the  exertions  of  man,  and  the  instability  of  a 
fancied  immortality,  ihe  names  and  actions  of  its  once  proud 
possessors  having  moutdered  rnto  oblivion  like  their  decayed 
sepulchral  dust. 

Habkuhorp^  or  Absthorpe,  has  already  been  noticed  whilst  en- 


U4 


deavourtng 


'  Biit.  Rom*  p.  454. 


t  Bibh  Top.  Bril.  Vol.  HI.  p.  1?6. 


8l£  ironivaitAMSRiaB; 

deaTouring  to  ascertain  the  ancient  name  of  Trent^  It  b  but 
a  smail  hamlet,  with  some  remnant  of  a  chapel ;  but,  not  hav- 
ing been  mentioned  in  the  Norman  snnrey**  has  been  supposed 
not  then  to  have  had  existence:  if  so,  the  conjectures  founded 
on  its  name  must  fall  to  the  ground. 

Rampton  near  the  Trent  has  been  in  possession  of  the  ma- 
ternal ancestors  of  the  family  of  Eyrt,  ever  since  the  Conquest 
In  the  reign  of  Henry  the  eighth,  a  mansion  house  was  built 
here,  but  pulled  down  about  a  century  ago,  nothing  of  it  re- 
maining except  a  very  curious  gateway  highly  ornamented  in 
the  style  of  that  time.  It  has  still  some  armorial  bearhigs  in 
pretty  good  preservation ;  and  a  good  drawing  of  it  may  be 
seen  in  Throsby's  Notts,  where  much  of  their  modem  descent 
may  be  found,  both  from  the  Babyngtons  and  from  Lady 
Pakynton  of  Westwood  House  in  Worcestershire,  the  pious 
authoress  of  the  "  Whole  Duty  of  Man.*'  Here  is  a  very  large 
church  dedicated  to  All  Saints,  with  a  \ofiy  tower;  and  in  the 
chancel,  and  other  parts  of  it,  are  many  monumental  memorials 
of  Stanhope,  Babyngton,  Eyre,  &c. 

NoaTB  Lbvbbton  is  a  large  village  with  a  commodious 
church ;  but  we  mention  it  particularly  on  account  of  a  curious 
mode  of  dividing,  and  marking  the  divisions  of  the  common  lands, 
by  arset  of  names  applied  to  the  twenty-eight  parts  of  every 
division.  The  plan  is  certainly  a  regular  one,  and  much 
praised  by  Mr.  Throsby  and  his  correspondent  Mr.  Shillitoe ; 
but  we  conceive  that  every  plowman  must  carry  his  surveyor 
with  him  to  the  field,  as  the  ground  is  marked  out  almost  to 
inches.  Some  of  the  names  also  are  as  curious  as  the  mode  of 
division,  and  shew  some  genius  in  their  invention;  these  are. 
Cicely  Oxgang,  Doll  in  tenure,  Mary  Dole,  Cockermeat,  Poory 
Dole,  Scutt,  Rose,  Wyemark,  &c. 

Its  companion  South  Leverton  is  also  an  agreeable  village 
w^th  a  neat  church,  and  possessing  a  most  extensive  prospect 

ov^r 
•  Vide  page  28, 


irOTTIKOIIAUSHtRB* 


3t$ 


over  Lincolnshire*  from  whence  Lincoln  Minalerroay  be  seen 
at  a  distance  of  twenty  miles. 

Grove  is  a  small  village,  with  a  church  dedicated  to  St. 
Helen»  which  has  in  the  chancel  some  cunouii  antique  monu* 
mental  stones  of  the  Hercj/  familyi  formerly  lords  of  the  manor. 
The  parsonage  is  a  pleasing  habitation^  most  liberally  improved 
by  a  late  incumbent.  Being  so  near  the  line  of  the  Romaa 
road,  the  situation  of  Grove  could  not  escape  that  warlike 
people*  as  fit  for  an  exploratory  station,  and  we  may  conclude 
that  the  moat  on  Castle  Hill  in  this  parish  was  occupied  by 
ihem  far  miHury  purposes,  though  it  may  originally  have  been 
a  British  work.  But  the  greatest  beauty  of  Grove,  \a  Grots 
Hall,  the  seat  of  Anthony  HardolphHyre^  E.iq.  who  nowrepre* 
sents  the  coumy  in  conjunction  with  his  son-in-law  Lord  fiew^ 
aik*  It  has  a  very  commanding  appearance  when  seen  from 
the  north  road^  being  situated  on  a  considerable  elevation  in 
the  midst  of  a  well  wooded  park.  Of  the  ancient  mansbn  built 
here  by  the  family  of  Hercy,  nothing  has  been  removed  ex- 
cept the  front,  which  is  now  a  modern  one  in  a  pleasing  style 
of  architecture;  the  other  part  of  the  house  is  certainly  as  old 
as  Henry  the  eighth's  reign,  and  has  lieen  an  edifice  of  great 
elegance  according  to  the  style  of  that  day.« 

HfiA^DON  was  another  old  ancestorial  mansion  of  the  £yre 
family,  having  come  to  them  hy  a  marriage  with  the  heiress  of 
Wastiiey  :  the  house,  however,  bui it  inthelastcentury  by  thelaftt 
baronet,  has  been  some  years  pulled  down^  though  the  ancient 
park  still  remains*  Many  monuments  ol  the  Wastneys  remain 
ill  the  church,  which  is  dedicated  to  St.  Peter,  and  is  on  an  ex- 
tensive scale,  having  a  nave  and  two  side  aisles ;  and  it  is  a 
curious  fact,  that  the  impropriate  rector  of  this  parish  must  be 
a  clergyman,  although  he  has  no  cure  of  souls  within  it,  that 
duty  being  performed  by  the  vicar,  who  possesses  only  the 
small  tythes. 

Eaton^ 

m  If  ucb  genealogicsl  jaformatlou  leipeciing  tbi»  sudeiit  fimity  m»j  he 
«cn  b  Ike  Gents.  Mag.  (ot  1795. 


314  iroravavAMiBiftBr 

EitTdN,  or  Idkitm,  tboagli. now  a  small  Tillage/  add  oiiI|r  va« 
markable  for  Ix^ing  a  prebend  of  Soathwelt,  was  a  place  of  soma 
continence  before  the  Norman  Conquest ;  for  bare  were  um 
manors^  and  ten  thanes,  each  thane  having  a  Hall:  at  the' 
surrey,  however,  they  were  reduced  to  one  manor. 

OansALL  lies  a  small  distance  lo  the  left  of  the  north  ruedj  aad 
fa  worthy  of  notice  for  an  agricnltaral  fact  recorded  by  Mr* 
Yoi^ng  in  one  of  his  toors,  wko  observes  that  there  had  then  been 
recently  practised  some  very  micommon  improvements  by 
means  of  hop.%  particularly  by  Geo.  Brown,  Esq.  of  Ordsall,  and 
•r— «*  Mason,  Esq.  of  the  same  neighboorhood.  The  praise* 
vrorthy  attempts  of  these  gentlemen  were  on  a  black  bog  three 
feet  deep,  its  spontaneous  growth  nothing  bnt  rashes,  andkt 
for  bat  three  shillings  per  acre :  this  was  drained  at  a  small  ex* 
pense  by  open  cats,  and  planted  with  hops  in  sqaarea  of  six 
feet;  and  in  this  they  succeeded  so  well  as  actually  to  clear 6U 
per  acre* 

A  &ir  instance  of  the  practice  and  principles  of  pnrtthnic 
times  may  be  drawn  from  an  act  of  the  Rump  Parliament  in 
1652,  against  the  rector  of  this  place.  Dr.  Marmaduke  Moor  • 
whose  estate  was  forfeited  for  treason,  and  himself  sequestrated 
from  his  living,  for  the  heinons  and  damnable  offence  of  playing- 
cards,  three  several  tiroes,  with  his  own  wtfe ! '.  ! 

Babwoath  Hall,  the  seat  of  the  Hon.  J.  Bridgeman  Simp- 
son,  isaboutamile  to  the  west  of  Retford,  on  the  Worksop 
road.  It  is  a  plain  comfortable  white-fronted  cesidence,  having 
had  considerable  additions  made  to  it  by  the  present  possessor. 
The  pleasure  grounds  are  in  as  good  a  style  as  the  ground  would 
admit  of,  and  do  great  credit  to  the  skill  of  Mr.  Repton  whe 
laid  them  out :  the  plantations,  having  now  acquired  a  consider^ 
able  growth,  assimilate  well  with  the  older  woodj  scenery 
around,  and  serve  much  to  embellish  the  open  lawn,  and  well 
formed  though  small  piece  of  water  in  the  front 

The  church,  a  neat  Gothic  building,  stands  a  short  distance 
from  the  hall,  and  is  in  very  good  order  both  within  and  with- 
out 


KOTTItQttAMSHIHE. 


SIS 


out*  The  tower  supports  a  small  steeple,  and  there  are  two 
young  trees  growing  out  of  the  roof  of  the  south  porch«  It  con- 
tains no  ancteDt  monuments,  but  there  are  some  of  a  modera 
^late  of  the  Simpson  family. 

Near  the  church  is  the  charm ing  little  sequeMered  residence 
of  the  Rev.  Archdeacon  Eyre*  the  rector^  in  which  comfort  and 
elegance  are  bJendcd^  and  to  whose  worthy  posaeasur,  added 
to  the  kind  patrimage  of  the  Bridgeman  Simpson  family »  we 
understand  the  parish  is  much  indebted  for  its  internal  pros- 
perity* The  whole  populaiton  of  Babworth  is  SIO,  ihe  males 
being  predominant;  they  have  no  poor,  but  ten  outpensioners; 
a  Sunday  School  i^ supported  by  about  35  individuals,  costs  onlj 
7L  per  annum,  but  has  produced  ten  time»  thai  pfo&t»  by  the 
improvemem  of  moraU! 

After  passing  Bab  worth  j  iUe  ground  begins  to  rise«  and  the 
tourist  tinds  himself  within  the  limits  of  the  green  wood  lorest^ 
whose  enchanting  scenery  of  woods*  and  tawns»  and  glades,  and 
heaths,  and  cultivated  farms,  and  ornamented  seats,  breaks  in 
upon  him  like  enchantment  m  every  direction.  Sometimes  the 
road  runs  alongside  of  the  Chesterfield  canal  bu;*y  with  com* 
merce,  at  oibers  it  sinks  into  the  forest  delLs  and  at  length 
tarings  him  to  Osberton  House,  the  elegant  modern  seat  of 
Mr,  Fo1>ambe,  The  surrounding  estate  abounds  with  wood« 
which  is  annually  increasing  in  richness  ot  foliage  by  the  growth 
of  thriving  plantations  of  oak,  larcb,  and  other  useful  timber 
trees.  A  rivulet  which  runs  through  the  whole  has  been  so  ex* 
tended  in  front  of  the  house,  and  for  some  distance  on  each 
side,  losing  itself  in  the  woods,  as  to  appear  like  a  river  of  con* 
siderabie  size.  This  effectf  says  the  editor  of  the  VUruviuM 
Britannicus,  has  been  produced  under  the  inimediate  direction 
of  the  o^ner.  who  posjjcsses  a  degree  of  taste  and  judgement 
which  is  perhaps  surpassed  by  few  of  those  who  have  made 
it  their  study  to  display,  to  the  greatfst  advantage,  the  beauties 
of  nature,  and  to  supply  her  defects  by  the  exertions  of  arL 
The  ground  on  which  the  house  stands  rises  with  a  consider- 
able 


31?  HOTTlKGHAMStTlRl. 

able  degree  of  boldness  on  the  south  side  of  the  river;  bul  the 
riewa  sire  more  piGturesque  than  extensive ;  and  the  scenery  ii 
tranquil  and  woody.  The  foreground,  which  is  finely  inter* 
spersed  with  the  noblest  oakjs,  e)ms»  and  beeches,  both  single 
and  in  groiipes,  is  backed  by  extensive  woods,  some  of  which, 
amongst  other  timber,  contain,  in  particular,  spruce  firs  of  the 
largest  dimensions,  beautifully  feathered  to  the  ground.  The 
house  itself  has  in  front  an  elegant  portico  of  four  fluted  Ionic 
pittars,  supporting  a  highly  ornamented  architrave  and  pedi* 
stent;  and  it  has  of  late  years  received  such  additions^  under 
the  superintendanct;  of  Mr.  Wilkes,  the  architect,  as  to  have  be* 
come  a  very  convenient  family  residence,  with  es^teosire  ao> 
commodations   for  the  reception  of  visiting  friends. 

To  the  north  of  this,  on  the  Great  North  Road,  is  Barnby  Moor 
now  inclosed,  and  w  hie h  may  be  said  to  form  a  small  hamlet,  lia?- 
iiigsome  excellent  houses,  and  a  very  large  and  comfortable  inn, 
and  posting  house.  Turning  to  the  left  over  the  moor,  and 
proceeding  down  a  sandy  lane,  we  come  to 


BLYTHE, 

which,  rising  on  a  gentle  ascent,  has  a  prepossessing  appearance 
at  a  distance:  the  county  around  is  well  divided  with  hed 
rows :  and  a  broad  opening  leads  into  the  town,  or  rather  vfl 
lage,  (for  Tlirosby  calls  it  a  market  town  without  a  market,) 
from  the  ascent  of  which  there  is  a  fine  view  over  the  valley  in 
which  Lord  Gal  way's  seat  at  Serlby  is  situated.  A  topogra- 
pher of  the  vicinity,*  says  it  is  a  clean  well  boill  town,  and 
formerly  had  a  small  weekly  market  on  Wednesday  ;  this,  how* 
ever,  has  for  some  lime  been  in  disuse,  and  the  inhabitants  go 
toBawtry.  We  think,  however,  it  can  scarcely  be  called  a 
town,  even  if  it  had  a  market ;  it  is,  merely,  a  large  village 
with  sevtral  very  decent  inns,  and  must  have  the  credit  of  being 
clean  and  comfortable.    After  the  Norman  Conquest,  Roger 

de 


iroTTIKOIIAHSHIRB* 


317 


^e  Buali  had  a  castle  here,  ami  procured  for  it  the  title  of  an 
honour;  but  his  chief  residence  being  at  Tickhill  in  Yorkshire. 
the  honour  of  BIyth  was  dependent  upon  that  manor.  We  are 
told  that  afterwards,  this  Roger  "  being  of  a  pious  and  grateful 
diapostlion,  with  the  consentof  his  wife  Muriel  did  for  the  slabi* 
Jity  of  William  then  king  of  England,  (who  had  given  him  a  full 
fourth  part  of  this  county,  if  not  more,  besides  what  he  had 
given  him  iti  others)  and  of  his  successors,  as  also  for  the  heatth 
of  the  soul  of  queen  Maud,  and  iheir  own,  by  the  advice  of  their 
friends^  erect  a  priory  in  this  town,  and  by  way  of  endowment 
gave  and  granted  to  God,  St.  Mary,  and  the  monks  there  4erv* 
ing  Godj  the  church  of  BIythe,  and  the  whole  town  eiitirelyi 
with  all  the  privileges  and  customs  thereunto  belonging/' 

This  grant  is  said  to  have  been  confirmed  by  the  first  two 
Henries;  and  yet  Madox  asserts,*  that  an  ancient  feoQment  had 
been  made  of  the  honour  of  Blyihe;  and  also  that  in  the  reign 
of  Henry  the  first,  that  honour  was  in  the  king's  hand  eilher 
by  escheat  or  wardship,  for  the  profits  of  it  were  accounted  for 
to  him  I  which  position  he  proves  by  reference  to  the  rolb  of 
the  honour.f  Tanner,  however,  makes  no  mention  of  this  in 
the  Monasticon,  but  merely  says  thi^t  here  was  a  priory  of 
Benedictine  monks,  built  by  Roger  de  Bui  III  and  Muriel  hii 
wife,  about  1068,  to  the  honour  of  the  blessed  Virgin.  It  was 
in  some  respects  subordinate  to  the  abbey  of  the  Holy  Trinity 
of  Mount  St*  Catharine  at  Rouen,  tti  Normandy,  and  was  at  the 
dissolution  worth  VZGi.  pet  annum. 

Hert^  aUo  was  an  hospital  for  a  warden,  three  chaplains^ 
and  several  leprous  people,  founded  by  William  de  Cressi, 
lord  of  Hodesac,  and  dedicated  to  St*  John  the  Evangelist. 

Of  the  state  of  this  place  after  the  dissolution,  we  are  told  by 
Leland  in  his  Itinerary,  that  "from  Rosington  in  Yorkshire  to 
Blith,  most  by  wot>dy  ground,  part  by  corne,  pasture  and 
medowe,  a  5  miles.     Tliere  renne  two  Brookes  as  I  cam  into 

the 
*  AtiiduK  Bnron.  Angl.  p.  t^, 
t  Hoiior  de  Blldr.  Mag.  Rot.  Annl  liicerti  It.  Heii,  L    Hot,  5.  A. 


tamUk.    The 


\hf^km  M9 


taMMfe  Mill  Uk mr6tmt%  mod  g«HJb  t»Se! 

l^S  m^m  kmtt,    Biiili  h  bvi  Biddy  fcwHilBdL    At  \ 

«liMr  ■■■■w^r  I  lanud  boc»  b«l  tlai  a  tittle  m  I  csk 
t0«fi  i&er  apfverilb  jra  a  woodtm  fades  tmkxm  ef  ^^ 


Firfier,  m  hm  wrole  aooie  lime  tfter  Lcbnd^  mjE,  * 
OmemMymwrnMrnigkHmmk  called  Blithe,  wliiei 
Jen  «ili  bate  tift  named  Irooi  JtMrnrndkete^  inm  tfe  airtt 
(B^d  MMrsKip  of  tbe  ittb^icaau  therein.    If  io^  1  dmmm 
Ifoib  the  nune  and  tbr  tlmis  mmy  be  exiaide^  all  iit« 
fliiire;  »  being  cowftdept  thii  an  oimee  of  watih  wnk  the  t 
degne  of  grtoe  will  tcrre  Cod  mortj  and  more  acceptaHyr 
ibtn  a  |ioaiid  of  normm," 

Tbe  ebotcb  it  dedicated  to  Si.  Blaflio^  and  t&  a  < 
«la|pHit  Gotb'rc  ftrocturei.  wttb  a  very  faaiidioaie  ancient 
lower;  and  at  the  eati  end  tadng  ibe  bigh  road  there  it  uiek- 
gani  arcb  inferted  in  tbe  walU  whtcb  miist  either  bare  led  to  a 
former  chancel r  or  perbapi  baire  been  tbe  renkains  4>f  eoane 
other  religious  building  attached  to  the  church.  At  present  it 
if  comptcicly  embowered  in  a  shrubberyi  has  a  venr  pkw 
ttirescjue  appearance,  and  seems  a  continoation  of  tbe  oma- 
mental  paddock  in  which  stands  a  large^  though  not  very 
modern,  regidcncej  now  occupied,  or  about  to  be  so,  by  lb* 
DacUcss  Dowager  of  Newcastle. 

The  whole  body  of  the  church  is  of  high  anlic|uity»  and  in 

the  interior  it  preicntt  u  noble  nave  with  arches  supported  by 

lutly  pillars,  ami  interspersed  with  some  very  splendid  mooii- 

9  ments 


JtOTTIMOHASSUtas. 


319 


•VmjU  of  the  M^Iltsbes ;  and  among  others  a  niemoiia!  for  a 
lalelodividad  of  that  family  who  built  ihe  mansion  alludleJ  to. 
This  was  evidenily  the  priory  church,  as  the  remains  of  that 
ancient  hwilding  are  adjoining  to  it;  of  these^  however,  scarcely 
any  thing  i.s  kft,  though  it  may  be  that  a  larg«  house  on  the 
right  hand  going  up,  is  founded  on  part  of  its  scite. 

Though  the  market  h  discontinued,  there  are  two  annual 
Fairs ;  one  on  floiy  Thursday,  for  horse  and  biack  cattle;  iJic 
other  on  the  twentieth  o(  October,  for  iheep  and  swine. 

On  passing  through  the  town,  the  tourist  cannot  fail  being 
uiuch  struck  with  the  beauty  of  its  vicinity »  as  a  scene  of  orna* 
niented  cultivation  bursts  upon  hii  view,  superior  to  any  thing 
of  the  kind,  which  the  editor  of  these  shcLts  has  ever  seen ;  the 
whole  expanse  of  ground,  for  a  considerable  extent,  seems  a 
complete  garden,  embracing  not  only  the  grounds  belonging  to 
the  mansion  of  the  Mellisheit,  but  also  those  of  Serlby  Hul1« 
with  all  their  lawns,  winding  walks,  and  shady  grorei.  In 
fact  the  high  road  itself  seems  an  ornamented  walk,  leading 
over  a  superb  bridge,  built  of  Roch  Abbey  Stone  by  the  grand* 
father  of  the  present  possessor,  for  the  convenience  of  crossinj;^ 
the  extensive  piece  of  water,  formed  on  amont  magnificent  scale 
by  damming  up  the  river  Idle  and  the  little  brook  called  Ry» 
ton  which  runs  through  these  groundi* 

When  Mr,  Young  wrote  his  agricultural  tour,  the  town  of 
Blyth  and  the  country  round  it,  for  several  miles  every  way,  be- 
longed to  William  Mellish,  Esq.*  to  which  gentleman  Blyth 
Hall  is  iudebled  for  all  its  modern  improvementfi,  both  for 
beauty  and  convenience.  The  additions  and  alter;itious  have 
been  so  considerable^  that  we  may  say  it  has  been  rebuilt  on 
the  scite  of  the  ancient  hall ;  and  it  is  now  of  considi^rable  mag- 
nitude, being  formed  of  brick,  ornamented  with  stone. 

The  most  elegant  apartment  is  a  magnificent  drawing  room* 

forty 

*  Joseph  MelNib,  Esq.  mtirried  a  siiter  of  Mr.  Gore,  fatrernar  of  the  H«ia- 
burgh  Conipiuij.  He  died  in  1753,  sad  was  succeeded  in  tlie  £[/the  e lUte 
by  his  eldentflii  Willtam^  » -commissioner  of  eiciif  in  17.M. 


510  VOTTlNOBAMSaiaB* 

forty  feet  long,  twenty-two  broed,  and  eighteen  in  height^ 
with  a  circular  bow  window  of  twenty-one  feet  span,  so  as  to 
form  a  yery  agreeable  proportion.  The  chimney  piece  b  ex- 
tremely elegant,  consisting  of  Ionic  pillars  formed  of  Egyptian 
granite,  fluted  with  stripes  of  white  marble,  and  supporting 
the  frieze  in  which  is  a  tablet  with  an  ancient  sacrifice  in  bas 
relief.  The  furniture  is  appropriately  rich,  with  the  beauty  of 
the  apartment ;  and  the  chairs  and  carpet  are  of  crimson  velvet, 
embroidered  with  yellow  silk.  The  view  from  this  apartment, 
and  from  maoy  of  the  others  is  extremely  grand,  looking  over 
a  fine  piece  of  water,  winding  through  the  lawn  for  a  mile  and 
a  half,  and  of  the  breadth  of  from  fifty  to  seventy  yards. 

Speaking  of  Mr.  Mellish's  improvements,  Mr.^  Young  ob- 
serves that  he  has  executed  undertakings,  which  shew  an  acti- 
vity not  to  be  surpassed.  He  made  ten  miles  of  road,  at  bis 
own  expense,  and  a  river  four  miles  long,  and  ten  yards  wide, 
as  a  drainage  to  a  large  extent  of  low  land  in  tbe  centre  of  his 
estate,  capable  of  being  made  as  fine  meadow  as  any  in  Eng- 
land. He  also  built  several  farm  houses,  and  above  thirty  cot- 
tages, all  in  the  most  substantial  manner,  of  brick  and  tile; 
<<  works  of  the  noblest  tendency,  that  will  always  carry  their 
own  eulogy.''  He  also  built  here  a  handsome  and  extensive 
pile  of  stabling;  and  ornamented  the  estate  with  upwards  of 
two  hundred  acres  of  plantations  which  are  now  arrived  at  a 
thriving  growth. 

Serlby  Hall,  now  the  property  and  residence  of  Lord  Vis- 
count Galway,  (not  the  Earl  of  Galloway,  as  asserted  in  a  modem 
work,)  was  in  early  times  the  manor  of  Alured  the  Saxon ;  but 
at  the  Norman  Conquest  was  given  to  Roger  de  Busli,  of  whom 
Gislebert  his  man  held  it.  From  the  Busli  family  it  came  to 
that  of  Mowbray,  and  in  the  reign  of  king  John,  Roger  de 
Mowbray,  for  what  reason  is  not  assigned,  gave  it  to  Maud  de 
Moles,  who  married  Hughy  a  man  very  likely  without  a  sir- 
uame,  as  he  immediately  adopted  that  of  de  Serlby.  For  many 
generations  it  remained  in  this  family,  until  tbe  last  male,  An- 
thony, 


irOTTtNOHAifSBtllB, 


as  I 


I 


ihony,  in  the  beginning  of  the  seventeenth  century,  being 
childless,  lefl  it  to  bis  wife,  Gertrude,  daughter  of  Ralph  Leek 
of  Hasland,  Esq.  for  her  own  life  and  Iwenty-one  years  after. 
During  this  long  interval  of  expectation,  the  male  heir  of  the 
Serlby  family  was  obliged  to  sell  the  reTcr»ion  to  Mr.  Saunder- 
«on  of  B!yih ;  but  the  widow  marrying  Sir  George  Chaworth, 
that  family  also  purchased  a  part  of  it  j  and  from  them  it  has 
come  to  the  present  poi^sessor,  to  whose  family  it  belonged  as  Ikr 
back  as  the  beginning  of  the  last  century/,  at  which  time  there 
was  a  very  old  mansion  standing  on  it. 

The  present  building  is  of  brick  and  stone,  consisting  of  a 
centre  of  very  handsome  elevation,  with  two  appropriate  wings, 
having  the  offices  in  the  underground  story,  and  the  stables  and 
out  offices  on  the  eastern  side.  The  situation  i.s  extremely 
agreeable;  on  the  south  front  is  a  spacious  lawn,  beautifully 
interspersed  with  clamps  of  trees;  whilst  the  north  front  has  a 
charming  prospect  over  some  very  luxuriant  meadows,  watered 
by  the  little  river  Hyton.  The  principal  plantations  are  on  the 
south  west  side,  with  many  avenues  and  shady  walks  cut 
through  them,  opening  to  the  most  striking  prospects  in  the  vi« 
cinity.  The  terrace  is  a  part  of  the  grounds  always  very  much 
admired,  not  only  for  its  own  beauty,  but  for  the  exquisite  view 
which  is  seen  from  it.  The  interior  of  the  house  is  both  ele- 
gant and  commodious,  and  when  visited  by  the  editor,  was  un- 
dergoing a  complete  repair^  together  with  the  outside. 

There  are  many  fine  paintings  in  the  various  apartments; 
amongst  which  are  two  undoubted  originals  by  Hans  Holbein ; 
one  of  these  is  in  the  dining  room,  and  is  a  portrait  of  Henry  the 
eighth  on  wood;  the  other  is  in  the  drawing  room,  and  is  a 
finely  execuled  portrait  of  Nichoias  Kreatzer,  astronomer  to  that 
monarch. 

The  drawing  room  also  contains  a  very  large  picture,  being 
twelve  feet  two  inches  in  height,  and  fifteen  feet  four  in  breadth^ 
from  the  pencil  of  Daniel  My  ton.  Its  subject  is  Charles  the 
first  and  his  quecnj  with  two  horses,  on  one  of  which  is  a  side 

Vol,  XIL  X  saddle* 


I9fldk,  %wi  tome  dogs,  fJlftslnrge  as  life.  It  al&o  codUum 
ioofber  Bgure  at  lar|;eiis  life*  bulwko*  oi  bioiBelf.  W99ld  not 
baTi9  required  such  a  breftdtb  of  onoYa^^  this  is  Jeffery  Hudson* 
Ihe  fksnouB  dwmrf,  who  is  io  tbe  act  of  striviiig  to  keep  back  twf 
small  dog3  with  collars  on.  This  picture  having  come  into  the 
possession  of  queen  Anne,  wi»  by  her  presented  to  AddUmk, 
from  whom  it  came  to  the  Arund^ls^  oi  which  family  is  its 
pn&sent  noble  possessor. 

ir  the  tourist  crosses  a  bridge  at  the  east  end  of  the  town,  he 
will  find  a  very  pleasant  road  leading  across  an  inclosed  moor  to 

BAWTRY, 

which  btjing  partly  in  this  county,  having  its  division  marked 
by  a  small  current  of  water  in  the  yard  of  the  Crown  Ino,  must 
be  partly  noticed. 
Old  Barnaby  in  pursuing  his  poetic  drunken  route,  tells  us. 

"  Thence  to  Bawtree,  as  I  came  there, 
Froa  the  boshes  near  the  lane  there, 
Rush*d  a  T^ntake  in  gesture  flanting, 
With  a  leering  eye  and  wanton; 
But  my  flesh  I  did  subdue  it. 
Fearing  lest  niy  purse  should  rue  it.*'* 

The  traveller,  however,  may  now  yisit  Bawtry  without  in- 
curHng  such  danger,  if  he  chooses,  and  he  canntt  fail  of  being 
struck  with  a  very  elegant  mansion  on  the  lefl,  on  entering  the 
town,  extremely  pleasing  in  itself,  and  from  its  situation  com* 
manding  the  most  charming  prospect  over  Nottinghamshire. 
In  mentioning  this  place,  indeed,  we  fear  that  we  have  over- 
stepped our  limits ;  for  the  line  of  division  of  the  two  shires  is 
here  so  very  undulating,  that  an  unguarded  tourist  may  easily 
commit  a  trespass^  and  even  in  the  middle  of  the  high  road  may 
shake  hands  wjth  a  friend  in  the  next  county.  We  shall,  there- 
fore, just  repeat  that  Bawtry  is  the  market  for  Blyth  and  the 
vicinity,  and  is  always  extremely  well  supplied  for  iu  demand. 

lu 

*  "  Sed  inflezi  carni  pssnam^ 

Timens  niiscre  Crumenam." 

Vide  Bamaby's  Journey. 


90TTI N  G  It  A  KSH I El< 


S$3 


I 


Its  popaktion  by  ihe  last  return  is  421  tnales»  and  497  l>roales, 
amounting  to  a  total  of  918 ;  bat  the  particular  descnption  of 
its  topography  must  be  ]eft  for  its  own  proper  county.* 

Near  to  this,  to  the  left  of  the  road  from  Blyth,  is  the  viUage 
of  Hanvorth,  on  the  border  of  which  parish,  close  to  Bawtry,  was 
an  hoapital  founded  by  the  Morton  family,  with  a  chapel  in 
which  was  their  sepulchral  rault ;  but  it  is  remarkable  for 
nothing  further,  except  a  charity  school  for  twelve  boys,  sup- 
ported by  voluntary  subscription. 

Returning  from  Bawtry  towards  Worksop,  we  come  on  the 
north  road  to  Schoobt,  This  place  wa^  visited  by  that  modern 
Anacrcorip  old  Barnahy^  whom  we  have  »o  oflen  quoted;  but 
his  fears  seem  here  to  have  got  the  better  of  his  ciiriosiiy*  and 
prevented  him  from  giving  us  any  description  of  ih^  village, 

"Thence  to  Scrabifj  oh  my  maker  ^ 
TiVilti  a  fiastor,  and   a  TaiurJ 
Ddjr  I  spent ;   1  night  divided. 
Thief  did  muke  roc  well  prorided : 
My  poor  scrip  did  cause  nie  fear  him* 
AIL  night  Jong  I  eiLiue  Dot  ucai  Iiim/' 

In  a  preceding  note  we  have  already  given  Leland's  opinion 
Ihat  the  rivulet  close  to  this  place  once  divided  Notts  from  York- 
shire ;  to  that  opinion  he  adds,  "  from  Scroby  to  Bawtre  a  mile 
or  more^p     Ridinge  a  little  beyond  Scroby  manor  place,  I  passed 

by  a  forde  over  the ryver;  and  so  betwixt  the  pales  of  2 

parkes  longging  to  Scroby,  &c. ;"  but  the  line  of  division,  since 
that,  seems  to  have  been  altered. 

Of  the  state  of  Scroby,  when  in  its  glory  as  an  archiepiscopal 

residence,  we  have  a  good  account  from  the  same  early  tourist : 

he  tells  us  *'  thence   ( Matte rsey)   I  roode  a  myle  yn  low  wash 

Kind  somewhat  fenny  ground,  and   a  myle  farther  or  more  by 

Mghcr  ground,  to  Scroby  in  Noiinghamshire,     In  the  meane 

X  2  tounelet 

•  Lclaod  lajs,  <*  Btwtrce  is  %  very  bare  and  pQOic  market  townc,  ttnnd* 

;  yn  Yarkthire,  as  the  inhabitanti  of  it  told  me  j  bo  that  by  ihis  it  should 

em  that  Scroby  vvmHi  m  lome  ptrt  dkideth  the  shircj," 

t  LatTO  in  tbe  origin*  L 


534  V0TTI1I&HAM8BIEI* 

totmelet  of  Scroby  I  marked  3  thinges,  the  paroche  chirche  not 
bigge,  but  very  well  builded  ex  iapide  politi  quadrato.  Tlie 
second  was  a  great  manor  place  standinge  withyn  a  mote^  and 
longging  to  the  archbishop  of  York,  boilded  yn  to  coartes» 
whereof  the  first  is  very  ample,  and  all  builded  of  tymbre* 
saving  the  front  of  the  haule»  that  is  of  bricke,  to  the  wycih  wa^ 
cenditur  per  gradus  lapidis.  The  ynner  courte  iHiilding,  as 
fiir  as  I  marked,  was  of  tymber  buikling,  and  was  not  in  cnmpaee 
past  the  4  parte  of  the  utter  coorte/' 

The  archbishops  of  York  had  free  warren  here  as  early  as 
the  17th  of  Edward  the  second ;  and  in  queen  Elizfd>eth's  reign 
this  palace  was  not  only  considered  as  excellent  •  in  itself,  and 
more  capacious  than  that  at  Southwell,  but  much  more 
modtous  for  provision,  having  a  large  jurisdiction  on  thei 
side,  consisting  of  very  many  towns  thereabouts.*  Even  in  the 
early  part  of  the  last  century,  I  be  park  still  remained ;  bnt  arch- 
bishop Sandys  having  caused  it  to  be  demised  to  his  son  Sir 
Samuel  Sandys,  the  house  afterwards  became  so  much  ne- 
glected that  even  then  it  had  almost  fallen  to  the  ground.  No- 
thing now  remains  but  some  small  part  incorporated  into  a  farm 
house,  marking  the  ancient  abode  of  splendour  and  hospitality, 
and  in  the  garden  is  an  old  mulberry  tree,  which  tradition  as- 
serts was  planted  by  the  haughty  Wolsey. 

The  village  stands  a  short  distance  to  tlie  east  of  the  great 
road,  and  merely  contains  a  few  farm  houses,  and  the  church, 
which  once  was  handsome,  but  now  decayed,  and  possessing 
nothing  of  its  ancient  grandeur  except  its  lofty  spire. 

Scrooby  Inn,  a  commodious  posting  house,  stands  about  half  a 
mile  further  on  the  road ;  after  which  we  come  to  Ranskili,  and 
also  to  Torxvorth,  two  hamlets  in  the  parish  of  BIy  th,  principally 
supported  by  the  great  thoroughfare  on  the  road, 

HoDSACK,  a  little  to  the  Southward  of  Blythe  had  once  a 
large  house  belonging  to  the  Cliftons;  there  is  still  a  curious 
brick  gateway  and  a  lodge  house,  the  residence  of  Mr.  Spencer. 

At  one  period  the  greatest  part  of  this  parish  had  been  given 

to 
*  Magaa  Britannia,  Vol.  IV. 


HOTtlNGtlAMSHlRB. 


3U 


I 


I 


I 


to  the  church  for  religious  uses;  we  shall  therefore  trace  iu  his- 
tory to  serve  as  a  fair  specimen  of  the  meekness,  and  humility, 
and  /icavtniy  THtndcdneas,  of  I  lie  monastic  brotherhood,  who  in 
iht^ii- searcli  after  hfc'dveii  took  care  to  luy  hold  of  the  good 
things  on  this  earth,  by  the  way. 

Ill  Saxon  times  this  was  the  manor  of  Vf$i ;  but  Roger  de 
Busli  procured  it  from  the  Norman  conr|uerQr,  and  delivered 
it  by  feudal  tenure  to  Turold  de  Liiwrlis,  in  whose  descendants 
it  continued  several  generations*  From  tliem  it  de*»cended  by 
marriage  to  tlie  Cressi  family,  as  early  as  the  reign  ol"  Richard 
the  firsts  and  remained  with  them  until  the  time  of  Henry  the 
fourth,  when  the  coheiresses  of  Hugh  de  Cressi  carried  it  to  the 
families  of  Mark  ham  and  Clifton,  with  whom  it  remained  until 
the  middle  of  last  century,  and  is  now  become  part  of  the 
Melt  is  h  estates. 

During  this  period,  at  least  previous  to  the  Re  formal  ion,  no 
icNs  than  five  distinct  granta  of  (and  were  made  to  the  clvurch** 
by  the  lords,  and  by  their  subtenants.  The  first  in  point  of  itme 
was  by  Fulk  de  Lisuriis  who  gave  to  the  monastery  of  Blylh 
four  bovats  of  his  own  lattds. 

The  second  was  from  Ralph  Cossard,  who  bestowed  on  the 
same  brotherhood  six  acres  of  his  own  demesne  in  Corsard 
Thorpe»  a  hajnlet  of  the  parish.  Roger  de  Cressi  made  the 
third  grant  to  God,  St,  Mary,  and  the  monks  at  Blyihe,  of  the 
lyitlies  of  ait  his  mills  belonging  to  his  manor  here;  for  which 
thiite  charitable  and  benevolent  gentlemen  agreed  to  sny  per- 
petually four  masses  per  week  for  himself,  hisancestors,  and 
successors,  living  and  dead  !  Sometime  after,  in  the  reign  of 
Richard  the  second,  Hugh  de  Cressi,  one  of  his  successors^  seems 
to  have  derived  very  little  heneht  from  these  weekly  masses, 
for  he  is  recorded  to  have  been  guilty  of  felony^  for  which, 
however,  he  procured  a  license  to  enable  him  to  give  seven 
messuages,  and  four  bovats  of  land  to  three  chaplains  in  the 
chapel  of  St^  John  the  Evangelist  near  Blylhe,  as  a  fine  for  his 
Crime  5  and  no  doubt  these  worthy  chaplains  would  have  given 

X  3  him 


p 


3^6  vomv«HAiiimE4. 

him  absolution  for  half  a  docen  feloniof  in  addiibn  to^tlie  Ibm 
mer,  provided  be  bad  paid  beforehand.  The  last  gift  was  thai 
of  tbe  chapel  which  was  given  to  Blythe  monastery  by  lh€  joint 
agreement  of  William  de  Cressi,  and  Thomas  de  Hodeaackt 

This,  however,  is  but  a  small  part  of  what  was  given  in  another 
part  of  th^  parish ;  for  in  the  hamlet  of  Hermeaaa,  William  de 
Glarifagio,  and  Aviqe  his  wife,  daughter  and  heiress  of  WilliaA 
de  Tenaia,  in  the  18lh  of  Stephen,  gate  to  the  church  of  St 
Cuthbert  at  Radford  near  Worksop,  three  bovats  of  land  with 
the  common,  for  the  souU  of  the  aforesaid  William  de  T«iaia». 
and  Hugh  Lovetol;  and  for  the  redemption  of  their  own  aenli^ 
and  of  all  their  parents  and  friends,  as  well  living  as  dead.  And 
bemuse  Hugh  de  Cressi,  Lord  of  Hedsack,  gave  aoilM  vneaa* 
ness  to  tbe  monks  of  Radford  in  the  possession  of  these  bovats 
king  Henry  the  second  interfered,  and  ordered  htmtopenBit 
tbe  holy  brothers  to  epjoy  them  in  peace,  otherwise  his  slew- 
i^rd  of  Tickhill,  should  tickle  him  to  some  purpose,  and  see  jus- 
tice done  to  these  pious  gentlemen,  who  were  thus  lef^  in  qaiei 
possession  of  these  lands,  as  well  as  of  the  hamlet  of  Helm  idse 
in  this  parish,  which  was  given,  with  all  things  belonging  to  it^  la 
the  same  monastery  by  Avice  de  Clavifagio,  with  consent  of  her 
husband. 

From  this  single  specimen  of  one  solitary  and  not  very  ex- 
tensive parish,  we  may  judge  of  the  temporal  as  well  as  spin* 
tual  influence  possessed  by  those  gentry,  who  by  thefr  vows 
were  bound  to  poverty,  but  by  their  practice  were  in  a  fdii 
way  of  getting  possession  of  half  the  lands  in  the  kingdom. 

The  town  of 

WORKSOP 

stands  on  the  borders  of  ihe  foresri;,  nearly  in  the  midst  of  what 
was  commonly  called  in  the  viciiuty,  « the  Dukery,"  from 
the  circumstance  of  there  being  no  less  th^  four  principal  seats 

of 


VOTTIirOHAMSfliaE. 


m 


of  Dukes,  widiin  the  compass  of  a  few  miles;  since  ihe  death  ut 

the  Duke  of  Kingston,  however,  there  are  now  but  three- 

Oii  the  approach  from  Retford,  the  appearance  ni  Worksop 
and  Radlbrd^   ^y^g  in  a  vailey>  overtopped  by  the  magnificent 

■double  tower  of  the  church,  and  backed  by  swblHng  hills  finely 
clothed  wiih  wood,  is  extremely  striking.     Its  situation  is  indeed 

Idelighriul,  and  natme  has  done  much  for  it;  and,  as  a  modern 
tourist  ha^s  observed,  if  art  has  not  done  so  much  for  it, 
yet  there  are  more  noblemen's  seats  in  its  immediate  vicinity, 
than  any  other  spot  in  the  kingdom  s^o  distant  (rom  London  can 
;  of.  We  muat  observe,  however,  that  we  perceived  no 
deficiency  in  the  exertions  of  art;  for  the  tuwn  is  in  general 
well  biiilt,  and  the  streets  very  well  paved;  the  inns  are  clean 
and  comfortable;  and  much  of  the  bustle  of  business  enlivens 
it,  from  being  on  the  post  ruad  to  Shefiicld  and  having  the  ad- 
vantage of  the  Chesterfield  canals  which  runs  close  to  Ihe  north 
end,  and  near  to  the  little  river  Ryton.   It  consists,  indeed,  only 

.<>rone  long  street,  and  of  another  leading  to  Radford ;  but  both 

.  Ihese contain  good  houses;  and  the  whole  place  has  an  air  of 
gentility  not  always  to  be  seen  in  larger  country  towns. 

Of  its  slate  three  centuries  ago  we  have  a  very  good  account 
from  Leland,  who  says,  in  his  Itinerary^  "  about  a  mile  beyond 

^Blith  I  passed  by  a  park  called  Hodsak,  where  Master  Clifton 
hath  a  fair  house;  and  2  miles  farther  much  by  hethy  and  then 
wooddy  ground,  I  cam  over  a  smaul  broke  with  a  litle  stone 
bridge  over  it;  and  so  strait  into  Wirkcmop,  a  praty  market 
of  2  streates  and  metely  well  butlded. 

"  There  is  a  fair  park  hard  by  it;  and  the  begynnynges  of  *l 
fair  manor  place  of  stpiared  stone  yn  the  same.  The  old  cas- 
leUe  on  a  h  ill e  by  the  towne  is  dene  down  and  scant  kiiowe 

,  where  it  was, 

**  This  toune,  and  caste! le,  and  large  parke  longed  first  to  the 
LovetottSj  then  as  sum  say  to  one  of  the  Nevilles.  Then  were 
the  FurnivauU  of  certente owners  there;  and  after  the  Talbotes* 

X4  -Th^ 


KOTTIKGBAMaillEE. 


"  The  priorie  of  the  black  chanons  there  was  a  thing  of  greCe 
building,'* 
Though  Lelaad  says^  that  few  knew  where  the  castle  stoo4* 
i  scite  may  be  ascertained  e^en  at  the  present  day«  at  the  wesi 
side  of  the  town  on  a  circular  hill  inclosed  with  a  trench*  ex- 
cept on  one  side  where  it  has  a  steep  bank  overhanging  the  lit- 
tle river  Rytun  which  thus  formed  a  kind  of  natural  defence : 
this,  however,  is  all  that  remains^  as  there  is  not  one  stone  left  , 
upon  another. 

Before  the  Norman  conquest^  this  place  was  the  property  o€ 
^Mlsi,  a  Saxon  Nobleman  ;  but  he  was  obliged  to  yield  it  lo  the 
Ifevourite^Roger  de  Buslr^  whose  man  Roger  became  his  feudal 
jlenant,  ami  was  succeeded  by  William  de  Lovetot.  After  many 
^generations  it  passed  by  the  marriage  of  an  heiress  Matilda  de 
iXovetot^  to  the  family  of  Furniva),   and  from  them  to  the  Ne« 
Lyills^  and  afterwards  to  the  Talbou  who  first  became^  on  that 
l^count,   barons   of  Furnivah  aftervvards  earls,  and  dukes«  ol^ 
^Shrevi^sbur)^,  though  now  extinct  as  a  dukedom ;  but  the  earldoni  1 
In  a  junior  branch.     Gilbert,  the  first  carl  of  Shrewsbury,  was  a 
[man  of  great  military  prowess,  and   became  such  a  terror  to 
I  France  as  lo  be  extremely  uscfyl  to  Henry  the  fifth  in  his  wars 
with  thai  country.    lie  became  so  much  attached  to  Worksop 
M  to  build  here  an  immense  mansion  hoase»  with  a  magnt- 
Jficence  in  full  accord  with  the  splendour  of  his  family:  tbi»,d 
however^  has  unfortunately  been  burnt  down,  as  we  shall  have 
occasion  to  detail  more  at  targe  presently  ;  and  it  is  much  to  be 
regietted,  as  there  is  reason  to  believe  that   it  \'^bs  a  complete 
^otique  specimen  of  old  fashioned   elegance.     The  Talbot  es- 
tates being  divided  amongst   cuheiressea,  this  portion  came  to  I 
I  the  Howards^  Earls  of  Arundel,  now  Dukes  of  Norfolk;  anditfj 
still  held  by  them  as  tenants  in  chief  of  the  crown,  for  ihe  ser- 
ylce  of  a  knight's  fee,  with  the  privilege  of  procuruig  «  gloTc  (of  I 
the  king's  right  hand  at  his  coronation,  and  of  supporting  thatj 
hand  whilst  be  holds  the  sceptre. 

But  the  modern  glory  of  Worksop  is  iu  Ahbetf  Church,  whicht 

howeveri^l 


rHOTTrNORAMSHIUf, 


329 


howeirer,  stands  m  that  part  called  Radford,  and  to  which  ilie 
stranger  advances  by  a  street  of  half  a  mile  in  length.  The  first 
object  which  particularly  arrests  his  view  is  the  Abbey  gate,  of 
which  a  plate  is  annexed.  This  is  of  the  latest  fashion  of  the 
Gothic  mode  of  workmanship,  with  a  pointed  roof^  and  the  arch 
flat ;  it  ha5>  some  florid  windows  and  niches  of  great  beauty  on 
the  side  next  the  street.  Tlie  statues  on  eacli  side  of  the  gale- 
way  are  gone,  but  there  are  stUl  three  over  it;  the  gateway  it- 
self has  a  flat  ceiling  of  oakj  with  Cotliic  groins  as  supporters; 
but  this  is  nothing  more  than  the  floor  of  tlje  room  above,  whicH 
bad  been  long  used  as  a  school  house^  but  is  now  in  a  ruinous 
state.  The  gate  was  double,  with  a  wicket;  and  the  wbole# 
even  now,  is  a  pleasing  spectmen  of  ancient  architecture. 

This  gateway  led  to  the  Monastery  or  Friary,  which  was  founded 
by  Wiiliam  de  Lovetot,  in  the  reigu  of  Henry  the  first,  for 
canons  regular  of  St.  Augustine,  and  dedicated  to  St.  Mary  and 
St.  Cutbbert.  The  first  grant,  allowed  by  the  concession  and 
consideration  of  Emma  his  wife  and  of  bis  children,  consisted 
of  the  whole  chapelry  of  his  whole  house,  with  the  tythes  and 
oblations ;  of  the  church  of  Worksop  in  which  these  canons  were^ 
with  the  lands  and  tythes,  and  all  things  belonging  to  the  churclu 
and  the  tishpond  and  mill  near  to  the  church,  and  a  meadow  ad« 
joining  to  them  ;  of  the  tythes  of  the  pence  of  all  his  set  rcnt^, 
as  well  in  Normandy  as  in  England ;  of  a  carucate  of  land  in  the 
field  o I  Worksop,  and  of  a  nieadovf  called  Crattla:  of  all  the 
churches  of  his  demesne  in  the  honour  of  Blyth,  with  alt  the  lands, 
tythes,  and  other  things  belonging  to  these  churches;  of  the 
tythes  of  paunage,  honey,  venison,  fish,  fowl,  malt,  and  mil t^» 
and  all  other  things  of  which  lythes  were  wont  to  be  given. 

This  grant  was  confirmed  by  king  Henry  the  first,  and 
added  to  by  Richard  de  Lovetot,  who  approved  of  his  bther*& 
gtRsj  granting  also  liis  part  of  the  church  of  Clarborough  aud 
two  bovatesof  land.  Cecilia  de  Lovetot  gave  the  church  of 
Dinesley  in  Hertfordshire  also  to  this  Monastery;  but  that 
grant  was  not  valid   until   confirmed  by  pope  Alexander  the 

f  Uiinl, 


3M 


MOTTlNOnANSUlRB, 


third.  Gcrnrcl  dc  Ftirnival  also*  at  the  rec^uest  of  his  wjfn  ] 
tilda  de  Lovetot«  granted  to  this  church  and  the  canons  there* 
for  the  heaUi)  o^  his  soul,  and  his  wife's,  their  ancestors,  and 
Miccesfiors*  pasture  for  forty  head  of  cattle  in  the  park  at  Work- 
top every  year,  from  the  close  of  Easter  to  the  i^ast  of  St, 
Michael,  The  pious  Matilda,  however*  wa&  not  satisfied  with 
her  husband's  gift,  but  added  to  it  a  mark  of  yearly  rent  out  of 
her  mill  at  Work5op>  to  be  paid  on  St«  LukeV  day  when  the 
monks  were  annually  to  celebrate  the  anniversary  of  her  hos- 
band*  Sir  Gerard  himself  also  bequeathed  his  body  to  be 
buried  in  this  monastery,*  and  vritb  it  giwe  a  third  of  his  milts 
it  Bradfield  with  the  suit  of  the  man  of  that  soke. 

Sir  Gerard  having  been  succeeded  by  his  brother,  SirTliomis 
Fnrniyal,  the  latt«>r  dying  left  a  widow,  Berthaj  who  for  th£ 
health  of  her  own  and  her  hiisband^s  soul,  and  also  for  that  of 
Sir  Gerard,  which  doubtleiis  she  thought  had  not  been  suf- 
ficiently paid  for,  gat^e  an  additional  four  pounds  of  sSKer  out  of 
the  same  mills. 

Many  other  bene  factions  were  given,  which  were  «H  con- 
firmed by  pope  Alexander  the  third,  and  by  succes?»ive  ponliiFs; 
until  Henry  the  eighth,  whether  for  th«f  good  of  his  own  soul 
or  not  we  will  not  prcttnJ  to  say, thought  proper  to  take  them 
all  into  his  own  hiindn.  It  appears  also  from  a  bull  of  popt 
Alexander  in  1161,  that  the  canons  had  a  power  of  appointing 
the  priests  for  their  own  parish  churches,  "  who  were  answer^ 
able  to  the  bishop  for  the  cure  of  the  people's  souls,  and  to  the 
priory  for  the  profit  of  their  livings  !'* 

Of  the  il'lonmteryf  but  little  is  now  remaining ;  but  the  Chii 
still  remains,  a  proud  monument  of  ancient  ecclesiastical  mag 
nificence.    This,  however,  is  but  the  west  end  of  the  prior 

church/ 

•  Thl»  was  aU.iji  con^viercd  as  a  bctjucst  of  some  value*  «*  it  brought 
Urge  »iiiii«  in  shape  of  oUationSj  oiFcringi,  maiaes,  reqoiemi,  &c«  There 
Imve  been  many  instance!  nr  he  re  the  roonVs  wf  one  church  h»-ir#  hy  force 
tnken  a  rich  nifn'i  bodj  horn  the  njoiiki  of  awitUcr,  in  ordei  to  bring  all  th« 
£ri«t  to  I  heir  own  mi  111 


NOTTtNOHAMfllliaft* 


5n 


churcht  yet  has  an  august  appearance  from  its  Iwa  lofty  tower* 
which  strike  the  eye  of  the  beholder  wilh  an  tmpre&sion  equal 
to  those  of  Westminster  Abbey.  The  style  of  architecture  was 
originally  Saxoui  but  un  the  ouuido  is  much  mixed  with  the 
Gothic ;  and  the  whole  is  in  the  form>  and  nearly  the  size»  of  a 
cathedral. 

The  west  entrance  is  very  grand,  consisting  of  a  Saxon  arch 
with  zigzag  ornaments  {  and  the  towers  over  it  have  Sajcoii« 
Anglo 'Norman,  and  Gothic  windows,  in  diHerent  gradations. 

On  ibe  north  side  of  the  edifice  are  a  few  fragments  of  walls, 
close  to  the  wall  of  the  chnrcb^  some  of  which  have  been  con- 
verted into  small  dwelling  houses;  and  in  ihe  meadows  below 
it  many  traces  of  fuundations  have  at  various  times  been  dis- 
covered. But  the  most  splendid  specimen  of  antique  architec* 
ture  is  a  ruinuu^s  chapel  at  the  south  ea^t  corner,  now  used  as  a 
burying  place  by  the  Froggait  family,  and  which  is  highly  de^ 
servmg  the  notice  of  ihe  antiquary,  as  the  windows,  still  in  good 
pre  nervation  9  are  perhaps  the  most  perfect  model  of  the  lancet 
ihaptnow  romainiug  in  the  kingdom. 

The  churchyard  contains  several  old  tombs;  and  one  of  the 
oldest  is  now  before  the  door  of  the  schoolmaster's  house, 
being  a  freestone  slab,  which  formerly  covered  the  body  of 
William  Furnival,  second  in  descent  from  Gerard,  who  came 
in  with  the  Norman  duke.  It  had  a  curious  inscription,  nowal* 
most  obliterated;  but  said  by  Gough  to  be, 

5*  Mc  memorans  pallc*  limiU  currii  quia  calle^ 
De  FournWalle  pro  Willielmo  roga  Psailc.** 

On  entering  the  church,  the  visitor  is  struck  with  the  an- 
I  titjue  appearance  of  the  body  of  it,  which  is  135  feet  in  lengthy 
^and  consist?  of  a  nave  and  two  side  ainles;  the  roof  of  the  nave  is 
lupportcd  by  eight  pillars,  alternately  cylindrical  and  oclangu- 
I  lar,  joined  by  Saxon  arches  ornamented  with  quatrefoils.  Over 
I  these  are  two  alternate  rows  of  windows,  one  over  the  arches, 
the  other  over  the  intervals  above  the  respective  pillars,  and 

9  I 


3S2 


WOTTf  KGN  AMSHtRC. 


these  are  of  ibe   latest  origin.    The  pulpit  is  very  judiciously 
tdken  care  of,  and  is  a  very  curious  proof  of  the  irigemitty  of  an- 

cient  workmen,  and  of  the  profusion  of  labour  which  they  were 
content  to  bestow  on  what  they  conistdered  as  sacred  iKirtgs.* 
The  niomimenis  arc  only   remarllable  for  their  antiquit 

The 

*Thc  vattticst  of  our  ancient  cmthedriih  tnd  c1iarc1>e»,  »nd  the  Ubciyred 
pf^fu»lon  of  nrnaio«fif  I  (tntcrwoven  as  it  may  be  said  into  their  very  gtEm  mud 
teitnre.)  have  been  sources  of  wonder  snd  admiration  fo  sacoeeding  ag**. 
Alittk  conaidcrauon,  however«  will  di^pei  uor  wundcri  but  vrithoul  diminkh^ 
it^  our  admiration,  it  wc  recoiled  tKnt  clmrches  qt  chapelt  were  fi«f  4 
tlicQ  as  now,  cither  b^*  act  oi  Parliament,  or  for  purposes  of  private  i 
neat,  and  thus  ctrcuiDscribed  in  tlie  ooe  case  bj  puhJic^  and  m  the  other  1 
private,  economy;  nor  was  It  neecsiary  that  for  the  sake  of  economy  th 
slwold  be  built  in  ti  liun-y. 

When  an  f)rchbi»hop,  or  «  fralernity  of  monki,  or  any  other  religioQt  i 
cielj,  got  a  ficencc  to  build  a  church  or  cathedritl,  the  stale  of  inaimers  i 
•fprapertj  did  not  permit  an  jtomcdiatc  au^ripthn  of  caal|»  or  faaxik  DOte», 
for  tlic  pnrpftse  ;  bal  the  pmjcclor*  knew  wcli  that,  hj  working  «iii  the  l«IigHj 
ons  hopes  and  ft'ars  of  individuals,  tliey  shoutd  be  able  graduallj  to  acquin 
funds  for  their  sacred  foundation.  It  wa«  their  iniercjit,  therefore^  to  adopt 
m  plan  which  ahouM  require  yeitrs,  nay  gcncmtious,  to  comptetc  it«  (sonae  of 
these  edifices  halving  been  two  centuries  hi  buitding^)  by  which  means  they 
wcreeuahled  to  build  aniiualff  as  (utuh  cAtne  in,  nity  even  Co  add  pn 
aif  ely  to  iho  landed  property  «f  the  monastery ;  tot  when  Jaudi  and  tytl 
were  given  anr]  brqncathcd  for  tlie  holy  work,  the  nionks,  m' ho  were  bod 
treasurers  and  audi  tor  >  found  themselves  quite  at  liberty  to  appty  such  i 
ufthe  bequesii  to  that  work,  as  was  convenient  for  them.  By  the  prolon* 
•ntion  of  the  work  al»0|  ihcy  not  only  recti vcd  immediae  suppiics,  baf  ei- 
lablbhed  a  kind  ofaimaal  3n6  pcrpetuai  t4X  on  the  eiithosia^m,  or  coom- 
lion,  of  the  richj  who  sometimes  added  wimie  chapela,  altarj,  lower*.  &c.  &c. 
91  liieir  o^ii  c'xpen^tv,  with  a  sum  for  masses  tacked  to  thenci.  Kay^  they 
'Acre  even  thuA  enabled  to  avail  themselves  of  the  industry  of  the  poorwith^ 
fiut  paying  for  it;  for  the  mechanic,  that  was  employed  u.ily  half  the  year, 
noutd  gladly  give  the  other  batf  of  hta  labour^  either  to  purchase  p^rdoti  and 
Indulgence  in  tliis  world,  or  la  compound  far  a  short  rmt  to  ptirg;alory  ill 
the  next. 

By  the  prolons;iiioti  6i  the  worki  also^  the  monks  lefl  a  valoable  reversion  t»| 
the ir  "successors ;  and  thus  every  thing  contributed  to  raise  edifices  imihoiigbM 
4f  in  out  present  dny. 


KOTTINOHAMSHinfi« 


d3S 


Tktse  are  principally  of  the  families  of  Furnival  and  Lovelot; 
amongst  the  forcner  of  which,  most  of  them  lying  in  a  neglected 
and  mutilated  stale  at  the  east  end  of  the  south  aisle,  there  is 
a  figure  of  a  knight  in  a  pointed  helmet  and  frontlet,  and  g^>r* 
get  of  mail;  on  his  surcoat  is  a  fes.se  between  six  martlets^  bis 
Ix^Jt  IS  studded }  and  under  his  head  h  a  doidde  cushioo  sup- 
ported by  ajigch.  The  slab  on  which  he  lies  ij»  bordered  with 
foliage,  and  this,  Gough  in  bii  Sepulchral  Monuments  coost- 
ders  as  the  fifth  of  the  name  of  Funiival  recorded  by  Dugdale 
about  the  time  of  Edward  the  third.  In  the  "  Monasticou" 
thereis  a  rhyming  genealogy  of  the  family^  in  which  thb  baron 
bold  Ls  called  a 


>  flern  and  right  hasty  man. 


"  The  Ijasty  Foumirall,  hut  he  was  good  foundcf. 
To  lb«  place  of  Wyfk»opp«  iu  his  tiine  then/' 

which  of  course  was  a  salvo  for  all  the  evils  which  his  hxstiness 
and  stern  impetuosity  might  hiflict  on  bis  bousebold  and 
tenantry.  In  anniher  part  of  the  ai;de  are  three  large  statues  iti 
a  recumbent  posture,  two  of  them  mate  and  one  female,  which 
seem  to  have  been  brought  from  some  other  place,  and  are  now 
lying  on  the  ground,  most  luxuriantly  ornamented  with  wbile- 
waidi* 

Gough  particularly  illustrates  and  describes*  two  alabaster 
figures,  of  a  kni^^ht  in  a  pointed  helmet  with  a  corolla  round  it, 
and  a  frontlet  of  oak  leaves,  plated  armour,  and  a  saltire  with  a 
martlet  in  the  centre  for  difference  on  his  surcoat :  hi*  belt  stud- 
ded; his  elbow  and  kneepieces  trefoil  pattern  ;  a  helmet  under 
his  head,  with  some  beast's  head  for  crest  i  and  a  lion  at  his  feet : 
also  at  his  right  hand,  a  lady  in  the  surbast  reticulated  head- 
dress, slender  face  and  neck,  mantle  and  boddice,  and  plaited 
petticoat;  and  under  her  head  a  double  cushion  with  angels* 
He  adds,  that  the  clerk  who  shewed  him  the  monument  in  1785 
innocently   told  him  that  this  was   the  tomb  of  *^  a  vast  great 

war- 
»  SepuK  Mob.  VoL  I.  p.  185, 


su 


KOTTIHOHAIiSBIRS* 


vrarrior"  and  his  wife,  and  that  the  lion  at  their  feet  was  their 
lap  dog;  "be  stood  a  yard  high,  but  some  graceleas  chapl 
broke  off  his  legs." 

The  Cicrrouc,  which  the  editor  of  these  sheets  bad  the  lock  to 
find  here,  seemed  not  more  conrersant  with  the  antiquities  of 
the  place  than  his  predecessor ;  he  pointed  to  these  moauments 
as  *' morals  of  Antikkity/'  and  added  with  an  air  of  connob* 
searship,  that  these  were  '*  merable  of  the  FuHn^Mds  and  L&tt* 
cms/' 

The  fact  is,  howefer,  that  this  last  monument  is  that  of 
Thomas  NevtII,  brother  to  Ralph  first  Earl  of  Westmoreland ;  ht 
married  Joan  the  heiress  of  these  estates,  and  was  treasurer  of 
England. 

The  chapel  of  St.  Peter^  on  the  south  side  of  the  cbancet^  al- 
ready noticed,  where  most  of  these  memorials  are  now  assem* 
bfed^  and  now  in  a  ruinous  condition,  was  the  burial  place  of  the 
family. 

Upon  ilie  whole*  every  antiquary,  and  indeed  every  person 
of  taste,  will  find  much  to  gratify  curiosity  in  this  place;  and 
the  solemn  antiquity  of  this  venerable  ruin,  for  such  it  is  tnparf» 
appears  not  the  less  from  being  contrasted  with  the  cheerful 
gaiety  of  Ra4ford,  which*  having  some  extensive  maltiag 
houses  and  mills,  possesses  an  air  of  comfortable  plenty  ex- 
tremely agreeable. 

Tlie  Market  at  Worksop,  which  serves  both  places,  is  held 
on  Wednesday,  and  u  always  well  supplied.  Here  also  are  two 
Fairs;  on  the  SIst  of  Marcii  for  cattle ;  and  on  the  35th  of  Oc- 
tober, for  horses,  cattle,  and  pedlary:  the  great  sale  of  liquo- 
rice is  now  ai  an  end,  that  root  being  no  longer  coltivated  here 
as  formerly ;  and  the  fair  also,  which  formerly  was  held  on  St, 
Walburg's  day,  the  2lst  of  June,  is  now  discontinued, 

A  considerable  degree  of  trade  has  been  brought  to  this  place 
by  the  Chesterfield  canal,  which  goes  close  by  the  north  end 
of  the  towui  and  has  in  particular  reduced  the  price  of  coals. 

The  whole  population  of  Worktop  and  Radford^  by  the  last 

Census, 


MOTTIKGflAM^IltftE. 


555 


Cefisii$»  is  3G09j  consisting  of  1763  malest  Siad  1839  ft^tualed; 
giving  an  increase.  In  eicvt-n  years,  of  70L 

Though  lb t^rc  are  no  tnaiiufactures  here  to  givi;  employment, 
yet  the  gtneral  state  of  the  Poor  seems  not  so  hard  as  ia  other 

places^  the  svorkhouRe  is  on  a  small  scale,  and  a  system  hdA 
for  some  lime  subslgtciij  of  giving  flax  for  spinning  to  the  out- 
poor  who  chase  to  be  iudo^<irious.  There  are  also  many  poor  Ca- 
tholics in  the  place,  who  we  understand  are  much  ijidchted  to  llie 
bounty  of  the  Howards,  though  the  Duke  of  Norfolk  does  uot 
often  fix  biij  residence  at  his  neighbouring  seat  of 


WORKSOP  MANOR, 


which  stands  in  the  centre  of  an  extcnsirif  park,  eight  miles  in 
circyniference»  and  cuntaining  much  ^ne  timber^  fome  of  it  ao 
ancient  as  to  be  falling  into  decay.  The  park  entrance,  which 
11  not  half  a  mile  from  the  town  on  the  Mansfield  road,  is  a  light 
airy  gateway,  yet  possessing  an  appearance  of  anti*|ue  grandeur; 
and  the  tourist  finds  himself  at  the  commencement  of  a  long 
avenue  deeply  shaded  by  umbrageous  oaks  and  other  spreading 
trees.  To  the  left,  some  hne  lawns  open  at  intervaU,  and  he 
■  Bees  at  some  distance  the  Castle  farm,  an  extensive  range  of 
agricultural  buildings  with  a  Gothic  front,  a  battlemented  para-^ 
pet,  and  all  its  appendages  in  imitation  of  an  ancient  editlce^ 
from  whence  it  takes  its  name ;  it  is  surrounded  by  a  large  tract 
of  cultivated  ground,  much  of  the  park  being  under  the  far* 
mcr's  hands.  The  park  itself  ia  naturally  very  fine,  having  an 
extensive  range  of  hills  within  its  limits,  sufljciently  high  %o 
bound  the  view  from  the  house  on  one  side,  and  magnificently 
covered  with  a  series  of  woods,  which  overhang  the  landscape 
witn  a  most  charming  eJTect.  On  the  side  next  the  farm,  aa 
abrupt  swell  rises  in  the  boldest  manner,  tufted  with  wood, 
finely  contrasting  with  the  cuUi?ated  scenery  below,  and  pre- 

seatu>g 


S36 


KOtTtNGHAHSHIRS, 


senting  from  its  summit  a  niont  t'Xtensive  prospect  over  t&e 
western  part  of  the  county. 

The  trees  in  this  park,  which  once  formed  part  of  the  forest 
of  Sherwood,  are  in  general  upon  a  very  large  iicale  ;  there  are 
mme,  meruioneil  loo  nearly  a  century  ago  by  Evcij/n  in  his 
»•  Sylva/'  which  tvill  bear  two  feet  square  of  timber,  at  a  height 
of  forty  feet,  so  that  each  will  contain  more  than  six  soHd  tons 
of  timber:  and  one  tree  in  particular  was  180  feet  firom  ihe  ex- 
treme ends  of  the  opposite  bri^nches,  covering  more  than  half 
an  acre  of  groend. 

The  avenue  towards  its  end  affords  some  casual  gliropset  of 
the  house  itself^  which^  on  turning  round  a  wood^  bursts  at  once 
upon  the  view.  A  handsome  gate  now  leads  into  the  yard  of 
oflices,  separated  from  ilje  front  bwn  by  an  immense  screen  of 
light  architecture  with  iron  folding  gates;  and  here  a  stranger 
will  find  it  proper  to  apply  for  admission  into  the  interior, 

The  house  itself  is  not  only  justly  celebrated  for  its  beauty^ 
but  for  the  surprizing  expedition  which  was  used  in  its  erection; 
and  the  visitor  is  struck  with  astonishment  when  told  that  what 
be  sees  is  only  the  fifth  part  of  the  original  design^  so  that«  ai 
Mr.  Young  in  his  tour  very  fairly  observes,  it  would,  if  finished, 
be  the  largest  house  in  England.  It  is,  indeed,  even  now  a  tnas. 
l^rpiece  in  architecture,  and  may  be  considered  among  the 
noblcfit  mansions  in  England,  Payne  was  the  architect ;  but  we 
understand  that  some  of  the  most  beautiful  parts  of  the  edifice  must 
be  attributed  to  the  architectural  skill  of  a  former  Due  he «»  ot 
Norfolk,  who  is  said  to  have  superintended  its  erection. 

The  ancient  structure  was  burnt  down  in  17C1  by  an  acci* 
dental  fire,  and  it  was  estimated  that  the  loss  sustained  in  paint- 
ings, furniture,  antic|tie  jttatues,  (many  of  which  were  of  the  old 
Anitidelian  collection,  and  discovered  in  digging  the  founda- 
tions of  some  liouses  in  the  Strand  in  London,*  on  the  scile  of 
Ariindel  house)  and  in  the  library,  must  have  amounted  to  up- 
wards of  100,000/. 

The 

^  On  ttie  di»coverj  of  thetQ  itaiues,  Dr^  Dacarel  had  some  etchings  takea 

iifthfiu  :  which  we  believe  if  tU  that  now  rerD«ini, 


H0TT1N6HAMSHIRS. 


337 


The  then  Duke^  on  this  unfortunate  event,  began  a  new  house 
on  a  mo6t  ma^ificent  plan ;  and  now  the  present  building, 
which  is  only  one  side  of  an  intended  quadrangle,  is  not  unfit 
for  the  residence  even  of  majesty  itself*  This  quadrangle  and 
two  interior  courts  would  have  completed  the  plan ;  but  the 
execution  of  it  was  prevented  by  the  sudden  death  of  the  heir! 
The  front  which  is  finished^  of  a  handsome  white  freestone^  is 
^  318  feet  in  length,  presenting  a  facade  of  lightness,  beauty 
elegance,  and  grandeur:  in  the  centre,  a  portico  makes  a  light 
projection,  consisting  of  six  very  striking  Corinthian  pillars 
resting  on  the  rustics,  and  supporting  the  tympanum  and  pedi*« 
ment,  with  all  the  grace  of  the  Aminous  tidded  to  the  apparent 
vigour  of  Ha-cuki, 

Three  handsome  statues  are  placed  upon  the  points  of  the 
pediment;  and  In  it!i centre  is  an  emblematical  carving  allusive 
fo  the  high  family  alliances,  A  light  and  airy  hallustradc 
crowns  the  edifice  from  the  tympanum  to  the  projecting  part  at 
the  ends  which  ninrk  the  termination*;  in  the  style  of  wingSj 
ami  upfin  this  are  vases  so  gracefully  placed  that  we  cannot 
agree  with  Mr.  Young  in  his  opinion  that  the  double  ones  at  the 
corners  are  crowded;  and  further  we  acknowledge  that  *' this 
front  upon  the  whole  is  undoubtedly  very  beautiful;  there  isa 
noble  siimplicity  in  it  which  must  please  every  eye^  without 
raising  any  idea  of  want  of  ornaments/'* 

The  front  entrance  is  into  a  vestibule*  with  the  staircase  in 
front,  and  the  grandest  apartments  to  the  let^.  In  the  general 
plan  of  the  house,  the  present  front,  which  is  to  the  north,  waa 
designed  for  the  back  front,  and  here  are  ten  rooms  below  and 
twelve  above,  with  twenty-six  in  the  attic  story;  on  the  south 
side  are  the  two  galleries,  one  used  for  breakfasting,  the  other  as 
a  billiard  room;  and  we  may  premise  generally  that  the  furni- 
ture, portraits,  and  other  decorations  are  all  in  the  ancient  style 
of  magnificence,  with  hangings  and  beds  of  crimson  damask  and 
«ky  blue  velvet,  with  the  history  of  Joseph  in  Bru'^sels  tapestry. 

Vol.  XU,  '       Y  Indian 

♦  Vide  Young*!  AgTicultaral  Tour. 


338 


XOTTIXOUAaiSRIRfi. 


Indian  scenery  in  Gobelin  work,  **  and  all  ihe  Howards,  Tirfm 
frown  aioug  tUe  deserted  galleries,  some  in  armour,  some  m 
whbkers,  and  those  of  a  still  later  date  in  iheir  large  wigs  and 
square  shoes  i*' 

We  shall  now  examine  the  interior  of  this  superb  mansion 
in  detaiU  and  for  I  he  convenience  of  future  tourists  adopt  thai 
arrangement  in  which  the  apartments  are  generally  shewn. 

The  Breai^fast  Parlour,  is  hunjsf  with  handsome  Chinese  paper^ 
and  contains  a  very  curious  and  well  executed  series  of  twenty 
ancient  engravings,  of  views  and  charts  illustrative  of  the  defeat 
of  the  Spanifvh  armada,  by  an  ancestor  of  this  nohie  family* 
These  views  have  the  great  merit  of  being  chronologically  de- 
scriptive of  that  event;  they  are  also  embellished  with  portraits^ 
and  are  upon  the  whole  highly  worthy  of  examination. 

The  Front  Hall  is  of  noble  proportions,  and  contains  two 
antique  busts,  of  undoubted  originality,  but  unknown;  a  bocis 
of  a  foreign  breed  studied,  this  was  a  great  favourite  of  the  late 
duke,  during  it,s  life  ;  and  a  large  coat  of  arms  cut  in  wood  as  if 
for  the  purpose  of  using  as  a  sealj  though  nearly  two  feet  in 
height* 

The  Staircase  is  large,  its  area  being  37  feet  by  25  ;  the  iron 
rails  are  extremely  light,  and  the  whole  has  a  handsome  ap- 
pearance. Its  walls  are  generally  au[)posed  to  be  done  inJrf$co, 
but  they  consist  in  fact  of  paintings  in  Chiaro  Scuro  by  Thomas 
de  Bruyn,  a  Flemings  and  whose  name  is  niLirked  at  one  corner. 
The  figures  are  in  »uch  high  reliefj  or  rather  in  such  capital 
perspective,  as  actually  to  appear  protruding  from  the  canvas j 
and  there  is  a  boy*s  leg  and  foot  in  the  large  compartment 
which,  |)erh:ip9,  has  never  been  exceeded.  Their  design  is  to 
reprf^sent  the  arts  and  sciences,  and  the  light  and  shatle  are 
most  happily  tempered,  whilst  the  altitudes  and  expression  pos- 
sess a  degree  of  Bntsl)  not  generally  seen  in  works  on  so  large  a 
scale  1  indeed  tliey  have  all  the  sofiness  of  smaller  paintings, 
with  all  the  eirect  of  high  relief  from  the  strong  contraiit  always 
adopted  ia  fresco  and  in  scene  painting*  Amongst  other  pic- 
i  lures 


VOTTlKaHAMftatRB. 


S39 


lures  of  merits  there  is  ao  excellent  one,  size  of  life,  of  Lacy  the 
player  in  three  dififereut  characters. 

In  a  Bed  Room,  25  feet  scjiiare,  we  are  next  shewn  the  bed  on 
which  hii  present  Majesty  was  born  at  Norfolk  House  in  Lon- 
don ;  it  is  a  silk  damask^  and  still  in  good  preservation. 

A  Dressing  Room,  92  by  25  feet,  contains  a  ntiniber  of  good 
pictures;  Mar^  Stuecn  qf  Scots,  when  young,  as  if  taken  about 
the  time  when  state  policy^  as  woll  as  personal  liking,  threw 
her  into  the  arms  of  ihe  dauphin  of  France:  St,  John,  a  most 
impresuive  figure;  the  Nativiiy,  highly  illustrative  of  the  hum- 
ble birih  of  the  Saviour  of  mankind;  the  Adoralion^  evidently 
from  the  samt  pencil,  though  done  with  a  greater  glare  of  co- 
louring; two  heads  of  the  Buckingham  family,  time  of  Eliza- 
beth or  James;  tuo  heads  of  Catharine  of  Arragon,  forming  a 
very  curious  contrast,  one  taken  when  she  was  only  sixteen,  the 
other  at  the  age  of  forty,  the  latter  sufficiently  accounting  for 
Jlairy^s  scrupies  of  conscience ;  another  i\«//i?//j^,  a  sweet  little 
piece ;  Christ  scourged;  in  this  the  heavetdy  resignation^  and  even 
forgiveness,  of  the  divme  sufT'erer,  are  well  pourtrayed»  In  this 
apartment  the  chnlrs  and  hangings  are  of  white  satin  damasked 
with  birds  and  flowers ;  and  the  elegant  chimney  piece  of 
wliiie  marble,  with  an  eagle  pouncing  on  a  twisted  or  apparently 
twisting  iudikeg  is  highly  deserving  of  notice.  In  a  neighbour* 
ing  dressing  loom  is  a  picture  of  Lord  Thomas  Howard^  Huhcr 
of  that  duke  who  built,  the  house. 

Another  elegant  little  Dressing  Hoom  contains  some  charming 
pieces,  the  principal  of  which  are,  an  impressive  portrait  of 
Thomas  Dukt  c^f  Norfolk t  beheaded  in  ll»e  reign  of  queen 
Elizabeth,  of  whose  grandson  an  anecdote  is  recorded  that  king 
Charles  the  first,  having  taken  the  part  of  a  pnest  who  pretended 
that  his  majesty  had  a  right  to  a  rectory  which  he,  (then  earl 
of  Arundel,)  challenged  as  bis,  he  said  to  the  king  "  Sir, 
this  rectory  was  an  appendant  to  a  manour  of  mme,  un- 
till  my  grandfather  unfortunately  \m%  it  with  his  life  and  seven* 
lecn  lordships  more,  for  the  love  h#?  bore  to  your  grandmother  I*' 
Iniideofa  cathedral,  which  seems  a  production  of  the  Spanish 


Y2 


cbool 


340 


K0TTI)t6HAM8HIRiE« 


school  ami  is  an  exquisite  specimen  of  perspective;  theligbts 
in  particular  are  well  managed;  Earl  and  CounifJts  of  Arnndef^ 
by  Vandyke ;  in  this  ptecc  the  earl,  who  has  a  globe  near  him,  i^ 
pointing  to  Mailagascarf  a  place  where  he  once  had  thoughts  of 
malcing  a  settlement;  the  head  of  Homer  is  also  introduced* 
copied  from  an  undoubted  nriginaS  bust,  afterwards  purchased 
by  Dr,  Mead ;  from  this  a  print  has  been  engraved  i*  ilfrt. 
Brock hokf,  sister  to  the  present  d ulceus  mother ;  a  portrait,  in 
exquisite  one,  but  unknown. 
The  Bfue  Velvet  Bed  Room,  contains  a  most  curious  inlaid 

cabinet* 

•  Horace  Watpoli?  i;>v«^9  &"  excdteut  clmracter  of  lliii  patriolic  nobleman* 

Lifing  mdch  vithin    hirosrjr^  bat  tii  all  Ihe  state  of  [tie  ancient  nobility,  bit 

chief  amusemeut   wa«  hu  collect iuti,  the  ver^  ruins  of  which  are  ornAments 

now  to  several  principal  cnbinels,     Ik  wns  ihe  first  who  profefsedijr  began 

to  collect  io  thi«  coitiitry,  ami  led   the  way  to    prittce  Henrjr,  king  Charles, 

and   the  chikc    of  Eurkinghanij    "  1  cannof/'  «ay»   rcAcham,  in    hit  Com- 

plere  Gentleman,  "  but  with  ranch  reverence  mention  ihe  every  way  Right 

,    Hononrable  Thomaa   Howard,  Lord  Bi^h   Marshall  of  England^  at  great 

fbr    hit   noble   patronage    of  arts  find    ancient    Icarningt   as   for    his  high 

birth  arid  place  ;  to  viho»e  liberal  charge*  and  magnificence  this  angle  of  the 

world  oitetb  the  first  sight  of  Greek  and  Roman  stutuci,   with  ^hoae  admired 

presence  he  began  to  honour  (he  galleries  and  gardeni  of  Arundel  House. 

about  twenty  years  ago,    and   ha!li   ever  since  continued  to  transplaitt  Old 

Greece  into  England,"    This  carl  wm  not  a   mere  selfish  Tirtuucn  ^  be  wai 

botintafiil  to  men  of  talents,  retaining  some  in  his  ^ervtcei   aird   liberAt  m  all* 

tie  was  one  of  the  first  wlno  disiinguished  the  genius  ol'  Inigo  Jones;  and  wa) 

hiroaelf,  say*  Lillyi  the  first  who  brought  c»er  the  new  way  of  boUdiogwith 

brick  in  tht  city,  greatly  to  the  safety  of  the  city,  and  the  preservation  of  the 

wood  of  this  ntition.    On  his  embassy  to  Vienna,  ho  fmind  JUliat  at  Prague, 

and  brought  him  over. 

Vide  Walpole's  Worb,  Vol.  III.  p,  J05. 

Another  anecdote  of  rhii  nohlcmon  h  recorded  in  the  life  of  4eefia#. 
Thai  coi&incntiitor  h.iviug  deilicatecl  the  srcund  vi>luine  of  his  Lcllen  In 
Jiinef  the  first,  and  receiving  no  reward,  nohcited  one  for  five  years.  Hear* 
ing  at  liijt  that  the  Earl  of  Arundil  had  orders  to  give  him  300t:rowTts,  and 
nut  immediately  receiving  them,  he  accused  the  Earl  publicly  of  having  con- 
verted ttiem  to  bis  own  me.  The  ^ail  ordered  his  servants  to  beat  ArftiuCt 
which  they  did  severely  ;  al\cr  which  the  corrected  libeller  publlnhed  that  tk« 
Knrl  had  nn  hand  in  beating  him,  wetit  to  him,  begged  the  money«  nut!  re- 
ceived it. 


VOTTINGEAMSUtHE. 


341 


cabinet,  and  two  good  portraits  in  armnur^  which,  however,  ap* 

pearin^  of  an  older  date  tlian  their  wigs,  we  suspect  the  painter 
has  committed  an  anachronism. 

The  Dtfrnn^  R^om  belonging  to  this  apartment,  contains  the 
original  painting  of  the  School  of  Athens  over  the  fire  place^ 
ill  wliich  the  figures  are  certainly  exquisitely  proportioned,  in 
welL  chosen  attitndesi  and  the  whole  keeping  masterly «  yet 
notwithstanding  the  assertion  of  our  coiidyctress  we  suj^peci  this 
to  be  only  a  copyj  but  certainly  a  good  one*  Here  is  also  a 
high  wrought  Indian  cabinet,  ornamented  with  paintings  of 
Chinese  figures^  each  covered  with  glass;  this  is  worth  exami- 
nation^ and  as^iaiilales  well  with  the  rich  satin  dumask  hangings 
of  the  apartnient. 

In  the  next  Antlchamber,  the  pictures  are  but  few,  but  ihey 
are  excellent,  particularly  Cain  and  Abel  by  Vandyke;  this  is 
extremely  daik  originally,  and  seems  more  so  through  lime^ 
yet  it  cannot  tail  to  strike  the  beholder  with  horror ;  nothing 
can  be  finer  than  the  contrast  between  tlienieek,  yet  suppliant, 
resignation  of  Abel,  and  the  anatomical  exertion  of  his  mur- 
derer; the  Tr«w4%«rario/i,  by  Caracci ;  half  length  td'  Chattcs 
the  firsi  by  Vandyke;  and  the  Dead  Christ,  in  which  we  know 
not  what  to  admire  the  most,  the  meekness  and  resignation  of 
the  Virgin  mother  who  is  supporting  the  bodyi  or  the  ilexile 
manner  in  which  it  reposes  on  her  lap;  though  evidently  dead, 
yet  the  bmly  of  the  Redeemer  .still  bears  the  stamp  of  divinity; 
incorruptibility  seems  marked  in  every  muscle;  and  an  enthusi- 
astic mind  might  conceive  that  it  saw  the  vital  spirits, 
which  had  left  the  extremities,  collecting  round  the  heart,  as 
if  preparing  for  a  renewed  and  immortal  circulation  ;  in  short, 
if  this  piece  has  a  fault  it  is  in  it,s  excellence,  for  it  iippcars 
i*ather  to  represent  that  moment  when  approaching  vivificalion 
began  to  shew  itself,  than  the  sombre  hour  which  pa^ised  when 
it  was  first  taken  from  the  croifs. 

The  Ladyi  Drtssing  Room  is  hung  with  Brussels  tapestry, 
representing  four  of  Raphael's  Cartoons;  these  arc  Paul  and 

Y  3  Barnabas 


34« 


NOTTfKaitillkfSHlItS* 


luch       I 

til  U^^^ 


Barnabas  at  Lustra,   the  Miraculous  Draught  of  Fishes, 
Death  of  Ananias f  and    Christ  delivering  the  key   to  Peter,     A 
single  figure  of  5^.  Peter  over  the  fireplace  is  done  with  much 
spirit ;  there  are  also  two  doe  Spanish  paintings. 

In  the  Lad/sBed  Chamber,  amongst  many  others,  an  clei 
portrait  of  ^ueen  Henrietta  Maria,  when  young,  cannot  fail 
attract  attention;  and  the  curious  visitor  will  dedicate  some 
time  to  the  examination  oi  St.  Jerome  in  the  Desart,  with  the 
usual  accompaniments  of  the  scull  and  lion,  as  in  a  piece  of  so 
little  action,  the  expression  is  most  wonderful,  and  the  land* 
scape  in  true  perspectiye^  a  thing  not  always  attended  U>  h 
the  most  admired  masters. 

The  Gejuleman's  Dressing  Room  is  rich  in  paintings,  althou 
a  numher  have  been  taken  from  this  apartment,  as  wc^ll  as  froi 
other  parts  of  the  house,  for  the  ornamenting  of  Arundel  castli 
Here  is  one  in  particular,  a  very  antient  head  of  Christ,  v\fh\c\ 
if  there  were  none  other  in  the  mansion,  would  fully  repay  a 
visit  to  Worksop  ;  our  Cicerotic,  however,  could  only  say 
it  was  an  original,  seeming  to  itnply  that  it  was  taken  from  ii 
life!  but  as  our  faith  did  not  extend  so  far,  knowing  that  St< 
Luke  was  the  only  painter  of  that  time,  and  the  specimen  of 
his  art  shewn  at  Lorello  not  being  quite  equal  to  this,  we  were 
obliged  to  leave  it  like  Priam's  bod}*  at  the  destruction  of  Troy, 
not  indeed  ''  sine  nomine  Corpus,*'  but  sine  nomine  pictura, 
A  charming  nun  next  presents  herself;  this  is  Miss  Blount, 
Lady  Abbess  at  Antwerp,  whose  sweetness  of  countenance 
would  make  one  regret  that  ever  the  walls  of  convents  should 
have  existed  to  shrowd  such  beauty  from  an  admiring  world, 
was  it  not  recollected  how  tHiiny  of  our  own  blooming  damsels 
pine  in  virgin  sadness*  Here  are  also,  a  Madona,  placid  and  im^ 
pressive  J  some  tolerable  landscapes;  fruit  and  flower  pieces; 
Henry  sixth  Duke  of  Norfolk ;  Master  ClitFord^  about  whom 
there  is  some  story  of  his  being  to  form  an  important  matximo- 
niaJ  connection  with  the  family,  but  dying  before  it  was  com- 
pleted i  a  capital  piece^  in  the  style  of  Schneider,   if  not  from 

his 


KOTTlNGHAMSfltRE. 

hh  pencils  of  a  Spnrf9man  reposing,  wilK  a  spirited  horse  and 

Tiie  Library  at  our  visit  was  all  in  ronrusion,  and  oontained 
little  worth  notice  except  a  portrait  uf  a  Roman  Pontiff,  ancl 
two  whole  lengths  of  Jama  the  second  and  h  is  Queen.  Of  James, 
it  has  been  so  much  the  r4shion  lately  to  speak,  and  to  de- 
V elope  liis  motives,  (these  too  asserted  with  such  positive  i\e' 
cisiooi  or  argued  with  such  intricacy  of  ayllogism,}  that  one  is 
almost  persnad*fd  to  disbelieve  the  facts  recorded  in  history,  and 
to  worship  the  new  light.  But  after  all  tliis  ingenuity  of  dis- 
<|uisition»  a  little  calm  retlection  will  convince  those  who  are 
not  wilfiilly  blind,  that  the  writer  came  neare&t  the  truth,  who 
says  that  "  a  bigot,  from  his  intancy,  to  the  RomisU  religion, 
and  to  its  hierarchy,  he  sacrificed  every  thing  to  establish  them ; 
and  guided  by  the  Jesuit  Peters  his  confessor,  and  the  infamouj* 
Jefteries,  he  violated  every  law  enacted  for  the  security  of  the 
Protestant  religion ;  and  flying  from  his  throne,  and  his  country, 
chose  to  live  and  die  a  bigot,  or  rather,  as  he  supposed,  a  saint 
ana  martjr  to  the  cause/'* 

In  the  next  Dressing  Room  are  Mary,  DucheM  qf  Norfolk,  sis* 
ter  to  Miss  Blount  the  abbess;  a  good  sea  piece  ;  and  a  family 
piece,  posse^ising  more  spirit  thun  these  stilF and  formal  asscni- 
blages  do  in  general,  containing  Mister  Howard  who  died  heir 
to  the  title,  two  Miss  Wests,  and  the  late  Lady  Petrc. 

The  Duke*s  Bed  Chamber  contains  Bishop  Bid  he  sulFering 
martyrdom ;  he  was  bishop  of  Sebusta  in  Cuppadocia  in  the 
second  and  third  centuries,  and  sullereddtath  under  Dioclesiun 
by  decapitation,  after  being  whipped  and  having  his  flfsh  lorn 
with  iron  combs;  he  has  long  been  a  personage  of  great  import- 
ance  among  the  woollen  manufacturerii  who  consider  him  as  their 

y  4  patron 

♦  In  inimditcing  lhi»  libtoricsl  remark,  which  ccrtnitdy  wai  ctinsidcred  at 
«  just  tine,  for  si  centary  at  Itntx  after  tlie  alHlicittiwii,  it  is  ivit  uur  wbli,  not 
would  U  be  coris«)n«nt  m\h  wlmi  wu  liopc  uidj  he  e'stoemcd  our  liberal  and 
tuofTeniitt;  plan,  to  encourage  bigotry,  or  Alhiiuluic  lo  uuolcraiico  on  cUhcr 
side  of  the  question;  bulif  it  i*  nut  lriu*|  it  la  n^itural  lo  usk,  '*  Why  had  wt 
a  reroiiilion  r'* 


£^U 


IfOTTINQHAMSUia£« 


pdiron  saints  and  carry  him  m  all  processions,  aaihe  inventor  of 
their  wool  cards ;  this,  Uo we ver,  must  originally  have  arisen  from 
the  tortures  antecedent  to  his  martyrdom,  which,  instead  of 
making  him  a  friend  to  the  trade,  would  we  think  have  rather 
given  him  a  distaste  to  woolcoinbing!  Here  is  also  a/<inc{A(' 
representation  of  the  Crucifixion,  with  angels  holding  cups  to 
receive  the  blood,  but  surely  the  plain  bi^orical  facts  attendant 
upon  that  awful  scene  are  more  impressive  ihan  those  flights  of  a 
painter's  imagination;  where  the  body  only  sutlered^  it  is  futik 
to  attempt  even  to  anbkviaiize  the  heavenly  support  aflbrded  to 
ihedivinUif  vjithiiu 

On  descending  the  staircase,  we  are  tirst  shewn  into  thei^i(- 
Hard  Room,  a  long  gallery  hung  with  Chinese  paper,  and  fitted 
up  for  its  osteiuible  purpose  ;  here  also  are  som^  Jioieerpiecat 
the  mside  qf  a  cuihcdral,  &c. 

The  Back  Hall  contains  four  very  large  pieces ;  these  art 
Joseph  interpreting  Pharaoh's  dream  ;  Joseph'm  his  coat  of  many 
colours  relating  his  own  dream,  to  his  brethren  ;  ilfo^^^  found 
in  the  Nile ;  and  IMosts  and  the  serpents  \  two  anti«)ue  busts,  ori- 
ginals; and  two  modern  one$>  Charles  the  first,  and  Charles 
Louis  Palatine  of  the  Rhine. 

A  small  Drt^tsing  Room  on  this  floor  has  a  very  curious  por- 
trait of  a  I}uch€ss  of  Milan,  and  another  of  Henry  sixth  DuJte  qf 
Norfolk^  whose  resemblance  seems  lo  have  been  multiplied  in 
the  several  apartments. 

We  now  enter  the  Small  Drawing  Roofu,  36  ft*et  by  30,  and 
ptry  elegantly  furnished  with  crimson  dn mask,  and  magnificent 
■labs  of  Sienna  marble;  it  is  also  extremely  rich  in  paiutnigs, 
of  which  we  shall  only  enumerate  a  few*  of  the  beat.  These  are. 
Marj/  Duchess  qf  Norfolk  ;  Edward  Duke  qf  Norfolk  ;  Eurl 
iilafford,  beheaded  in  Charleii's  reign ;  Philip  Earl  of  Arund^ 
iUe  gvQAi  Earl  of  J tundel;  Lady  Aliihea  Talbot,  his  counieftt 
these  two  portraits,  of  these  noble  personages,  are  by  Paul 
Vansomer^  with  the  date  1618;  the  Earl  is  painted  silting^  in  a 
black  costume^  with  the  order  of  tUe  garter  hanging  round  hts 


KOTTXlTGUAMSUlRe* 


neck;  be  holds  the  Earl  Marsihals  Bacon  m  his  handj  with 
which  he  points  lo  several  uutiqtiiis :  Hcnrj/  Howard,  the  poelic 
JEari  qf  Hurrjf,  when  young ;  he  was  both  a  soklier  and  a  poet; 
'mhh  youth  he  became  enamoured  of  the  fair  Gcraldinc,  whom 
im  sonnets  have  immortalized,  and  whilst  making  the  lour  of 
Italy,  according  to  the  chivalrous  custonj  of  those  times,  pub- 
lished a  challenge  against  all  comers,  whether  Christiana  or 
Saracens,  in  defence  of  her  beauty,  and  was  victorious  in  a 
tournament  on  that  occasion,  which  induced  the  Grand  Duke 
of  Tuscany  to  wish  to  retain  him  at  his  court;  hut  he  determined 
to  establish  her  fame  in  every  city  in  Italy,  from  which  roraaa- 
tic  resolution,  however,  he  was  recalled  by  order  of  Henry  the 
eighth,  yet  afteivvards  beheaded  as  a  victim  to  the  jealousy  of 
that  mouarchj  pq  Towerhill,  in  1546;  Elizabeth  Somtr^Hg 
daughter  of  the  Marquis  of  Worceister,  and  consort  of  Henry 
sixth  Duke  of  Norfolk  ;  Thomas  Duke  qf  Norfolk,  Lord  Trea- 
surer |  a  portrait  of  the  poetic  Earl  of  Surry  niott  advanced  in 
life,  this  is  a  whole  length  and  is  habited  ni  an  embroidered 
waistcoat  and  short  breeches,  a  cloak  on,  a  collar  of  the  order 
of  the  garter^  a  garter  on  his  leg,  a  »hort  sword  with  a  gold  hiJt, 
and  a  glove  in  his  hand  ;  /Ic?ir^  Earl  qf  Arundel ;  Itord  Thomai 
Howm'd  faibef  of  a  late  duke;  he  lost  hts  life  at  sea,  whilst  a 
young  matb  and  is  represented  as  shipwrecked ;  Cardinal  How- 
ard ;  Lord  Edmund  Hoivard  who  coummnded  ihe  Van  at  the 
battle  of  Floddcnfield;  the  Eari  qf  EJiughanit  who  was  made 
Lord  High  Admiral  at  that  critical  juncture,  when  the  Spa- 
niards were  sending  their  armada,  invincible  in  their  optnion, 
and  to  ihe  assured  conquciit  of  this  island;  though  not  brought 
up  to  a  sea  life,  yet  both  his  conduct  and  his  courage  were  con- 
apicuously  4iiip1ayed  in  his  various  and  reiterated  attacks  upon 
an  enemy  numerically  superior;  his  coolness  of  temper  was 
no  doubt  a  great  advantage  to  him,  and  likevvise  his  magnani- 
mity and  prudence,  both  which  prompted  him  to  attend  to  the 
advice  of  Drake  and  the  other  experienced  neamcn,  and  to 
which,  under  heaven,  this  country  was  principally  indebted  for 

that 


S4« 


lOTTIHGHAHSBTBK. 


'^ 


ibstt  signal  defeat  of  an  enemy  buoyed  up  with  fancied  sxipe* 
riority,  and  stimulated  by  all  the  enthusiasm  of  religion,  as  if 
engaged  in  t  crusade.  Here  is  also  a  portrait,  by  Sir  Joshua,  of 
ihe  Dttkc  preceding  the  late  onc^  but  it  is  even  more  faded  iban 
tbnse  of  an  earlier  date. 

The  Largf  Drawing  Room  is  53  feet  by  SO,  and  is  hung  wit] 
most  bealit\il  GobcHn  tapestry,  which,  as  has  been  justly 
•erTetf,  for  colours  of  an  amazing  brilliancy,  and  an  exqtiisite 
imilntion  ejf  nature,  fs  above  all  prarse.  Even  the  Bnest  tints  of 
painting  are  most  happily  caught,  and  the  representations  of 
-4*1  rt  ^/«(i  j^wcrica  personified,  with  their  Tarioas  attributes  and 
productions^,  are  appropriate  in  the  extreme.  Here  are  also  two 
l^rgeflowct'piectSf  and  two  fine  slabs  of  Sienna  marble;  the 
elegant  chimney  piece  is  of  the  same  substance ;  and  the  pier 
am?  chimney  glasses  are  superbly  magnificent, 

Tlie  Dining  Room   is  42   feet  by  38,  and  contains  two  tm 
tcapts  mid  handiid  by  D'Arthos;  Dido  and  Eneas  from 
Italian  pencil ;  San  Rucpie,  *  on  pilgrimage,  and  his  dog  brin 
ing  him  a  loaf,  in   which  the  dog  is  admirable  in  the  extrei 
hDt  the  glare  produced  by  an   extraordinary  diffusion  of  the 
tights  draws  olY  the  attention  from   ihe   principal  figure ;  and 
foakes  it  look  rather  like  a  sketch,  than  a  Jinishcd  piece,  which 
it  amloubtedly  is. 
^^  An  Anti  Uoom,  25  ffct  square,  brings  us  again  to  the  lonA^B 
^llcry  ;  it  h;\s  a   handsiimc  chimney  [»iece  of  white  marbte^^ 
with  a  painting  over  it  in  fresco,  done  by  Bmyn  who  painted 
the  staircase ;  in  this,  if  possible,  the   perspcctire  deception  is 
vren  finer  than  that  of  the  larger  work. 

The  Chape t  possesses  a  gloom  suitable  to  such  a  holy  pVace^ 
the  altar  is  highly  gilt;  the  altarpiece,  a  most  splendid  work 
of  the  Rcsurrcrtion^  On  the  altar  also  is  a  large  crucifix  of  ex- 
cjutsile  workmanship,  and  highly  gilt;  this,  by  a  very  liberal 
arrangement  of  his  grace,  is  permitted  to  remain  in  compliment 
lo  several  Catholics  in  the  neighbourhood,  who  knowir.g  that 


•  Qnerj,  %m  U^gnt  ' 


HOTTINGHAMSMIRS. 


347 


this  chapel  was  originally  consecrated  according  to  the  ritual 
of  their  church,  are  happy  to  avail  themi^lves  of  it  as  a  place 
of  assembly  to  oiler  up  their  prayer  and  praise  to  the  God  of 
all.  As  an  adciitional  proof  nf  his  grace's  libemlity  and  bene- 
▼olence,  we  understand  that  many  of  those  who  nifasure  their 
humble  steps  to  this  retired  umple,  are  the  old  retainers  and 
proteges  of  this  illustrious  family.  This  is  aa  it  should  be  ;  this 
is  the  true  spirit  of  tolerant  Protestantism,  which  never  can 
injure  any  cause,  and  whose  consequences  must  be  pleasing  in 
the  sight  of  heaven,  religion  being  ihuji  far  divested  of  poliiicai 
considerations  i  On  thti  various  sides  are  hong  several  other 
paintintjs  as  assistants  and  slimolaiiis  to  devuiion;  these  are  the 
Prtsentation,  the  Descent  from  the  Cross,  and  a  Dead  Christ, 
with  several  others  that  cannot  fail  to  e?ccite  the  iwarmestand 
most  contrite  devotion  in  minds  preparcnl  for  it. 

After  viewing  the  interior  of  this  superb  raanjiion,  the  visitor 
ia  naturally  anxious  to  examine  the  Gurdem,  which,  indeed^ 
cannot  be  supposed  ef]ual  lo  ibeir  stale  when  the  family  prin- 
cipally resided  here;  as  specimens  of  the  antii)ue  siyk,  how- 
ever, they  are  not  undeserving  of  curiosity*  The  iloxver-gar- 
den  is  near  to  the  house,  and  contains  a  large  and  handsome 
greenhouse,  which  sttll  boasu  a  variety  of  exotics :  the  bow* 
ling  green  also  is  a  very  extensive  one,  surrounded  by  some 
very  fine  larches  feathered  to  the  very  ground ;  but  the  plea* 
sure  ground  has  lost  one  of  its  greatest  curiosities,  a  menagery 
which  the  duchess,  antecedent  to  the  late  one,  had  filled  with  a 
numerous  collection  of  birds.  The  fruit  garden  too  was  laid  out 
in  CQimiderable  taste  having  a  great  number  both  of  hothouses 
andhoiwulls;  but  these,  though  still  taken  care  of,  have  no* 
thing  particular  to  excite  enquiry,  • 

Much  of  ilie  beauty  of  the  houie  grounds  loo  is  gone,  partly 
from  want  of  attention,  and  paitly  from  the  landscape  gardening 
in  the  park  being  broken  in  upon  by  the  return  of  a  great  part  of 
it  to  iu  agricultural  state.  When  Mr,  Arthur  Young  visited  this 
mansion  in  1770,  everything  was  then  in  high  perfection,  and  his 

account 


348 


KaTTiiraiiAu&iJtBB* 


account  of  it  ser^t*d  at  least  to  tell  ub  what  it  ance  vras.  Yel  it  is  a 
pleasing,  though  melancholy,  task,  even  now  lo  trace  Kls  descnp- 
tion«and  to  retlect  on  the  various  changes  that  have  taken  pbc« 
mice  those  who  first  laid  it  aut  virere  In  high  health  and  spirits.  The 
beauly  of  the  ontruies  still   remains,   and  it   is  impossible  not 
to  be  pleased  with  the  artiticial  piece  of  water,  which  has  ftU 
the  boldiiesft  of  a  river,  assimilates  well  with  the  surrounding 
scenery,  and   is    partly  seen  to  great  advantage   from  a  Gothic 
bench  placed  in  a  shady  and  now  se  que  ottered  spot,  the  d^rk 
green  foliage  of  the  impending  wood  contrasting  the  clear  ex- 
panse below.    Imntedialely  opposite  to    this  bench,  the  banks 
are  rocky  and  abruptly  broken  ;  and  soon  spreading  tbemselres> 
they  open  and  display  an  extensive  sheet  of  the  water  wtiich  is 
seen  at  some  distance  to  recede  into  a  very  deep  and  dark  wood, 
retiriJig  beneath  the  arches  of  an  elegant  bridge,  and  ihu.^  gi?* 
iiig  an  idea  of  continuity  to  that  which  is  soon  after  terminated. 
The  contrast  of  the  dark  brown  overarching  foliage  witb  the 
pure  whiteness  of  the  bridge,  is  very  grand,  particularly  when 
made  more  apparent  by  the  blaze  of  the  noontide  ray.     Wind- 
ing through  a  thick  wood  to  the  lef^,  the  water  is  agiftm  caught 
close  to  the  bottom  of  an  extensive  lawn,  at  one  end  of  which 
a  gentle  swell  Is  crowned  with  a  Tuscan  temple  that  iorms  a  fine 
object  from  whatever  direction  it   is  seen,  and  also  in  oiFering 
the  visitor  a  resting  place,  points  out  to  his  view  a  charm 
prospect  of  part  of  the  lake.     From  this  spot  there  aie  a  vari 
of  walks  to  diderent  parts  of  the  grounds;  one  of  tbese  leads  lo 
the  bridge  close  to  which  is  the  termination  of  the  water,  now 
more  hidden  than  when  Mr.  Young  visited  the  place,  but  which 
ought  to  hiive  been  moved  more  into  the  recesses  of  the  wood, 
or  might  have  been  concealed  by  the  omission  of  the  path  to 
the  bridge,  as  that  edifice  from  this  spot  seems  abfturdly  8uper* 
lluous.     The  ground   rises  into  gentle  swells  after  ciossing  the 
bridge,  and  is  prettily  tufted  with  trees  and  fhrubs,  and  this  is 
perhaps  the  most  pleasing  part  of  the  grounds,  as  the  light  of 
day  call  scarcely  break  in,  whilst  the  silence  is  only  disturbed^ 


lelfH 


KOTTlNaHAMSlItftt. 


349 


fiay  it  may  be  said  is  moredistiactly  marked,by  t!ie  trickling  of 
a  mmW  rivulet  in  the  bosom  of  the  venlant  foliage.  We  cannot 
leave  this  spot  without  copying  Mr.  Young's  obserfntion, 
"that  this  sh robbery  will  amuse  any  person  whoae  taste  leads 
them  to  admire  the  soft  to»jehes  of  nature's  pencil,  scenes  of  the 
beautiful  unmixed  with  the  sublime."  But  the  admirer  of 
nature  in  all  her  wildness,  may  still  be  highly  gratified  by  a 
ramble  through  the  park,  to  which  he  is  led  by  a  road  parsing 
to  the  southward  from  the  house:  ihi^  walk  extends  upwards  of 
two  miles,  the  scenery  being  partly  diversified  by  cultivation, 
and  also  by  the  irregularity  of  the  gr<>und  most  judiciously 
planted;  in  one  pari  there  is  some  fine  forest  scenery  with  elms 
of  an  extraordinary  Htze,  planted  on  mounds  of  earth  that  seem 
evidently  to  have  been  ancient  barrows,  yet  have  not  been  de- 
scribed, nor  even  mentioned,  by  that  indefatigable  antiquary 
Major  Rooke.  An  extensive  common,  or  rather  xvasie,  over- 
run with  fern  presents  itself  to  view^  across  which  we  proceed 
to  a  lane  that  leads  to  the  park  of 


WELBECK  ABBEY, 

the  residence  of  his  Grace  the  Duke  of  Portland.  This  was  on- 
ginally  the  freehold  of  Sweyn  the  Saxon  before  the  Conquest, 
after  which  it  was  divided  into  several  manors,  of  which  Joceus 
de  Flemaug  obtained  a  third  part  of  a  knight's  fee;  mid  upciii 
ihe  death  of  an  old  Saxon  Drenghc,  or  knight,  named  Gamel- 
bere,  who  held  two  carucates  of  land  of  the  king  \n  captte  by 
the  service  of  shoeing  his  majesty's  palfrey  upon  all  four,  and 
died  without  heirs,  Richard,  son  of  Joceus,  obtained  these  lands, 
doing  the  like  service,  and  became  Lord  of  Cukeneyt  in  which 
parish  Welbeck  stands.  Thomas  de  Cukeney  his  son,  was 
both  a  statesman  and  a  warrior;  he  built  a  castle  at  Cukeney^ 
and  founded  the  Abbcjf  of  Welbeck,  for  PrBemonstratensiaa 
canons  from  New  ho  use  in  Leicestershire  ;  beginning  a  in  the 
reign  of  Stephen,  and  completing  it  in  that  of  Henry  the 
t  second 


I 


p 


350  woTTiironAiisHiiim* 

second.     He  dedicated  it  to  St.  James,  and  gave  it  afoflg^ ' 
some  extensive  grants  of  land  to  those  monks  in  free  and  per-' 
petualalms,  for  bis  own,  father*s,  mother's,  and  ancestor's  souls, 
«  and  theirs,  from  whom   he  bad  onjustly  taken  any  gooda/' 
After   this,    many   troubled   consciences    bestowed    numerou 
beiR^facLions  on  this  abbey,  which  had  previously  been  to 
firmed  by  a  roy^^l  grant  of  Henry  the  second. 

In  the  reign  of  Edward  the  tiiird,  John  Hotham,  Bishop* 
Ely,  in  1329,  bougla  [he  whole  of  the  manor  of  Cukeney,  aiid 
settled  it  upon  the  abbey,  on  condition  of  their  finding  eight 
canons  who  shouUl  erjjoy  the  good  things,  and  pray  for  Edward 
the  third  and  his  cjueen,  their  children  and  ancestors,  &c. ;  at«o 
for  the  bishop's  father  and  mother,  brother,  &c.  "  but  especi* 
ally  for  the  health  of  ihe  said  Lord  Bishop  whilst  he  lived,  and 
after  his  death  Jor  his  soul,  and  for  all  theirs  that  had  faithfully 
served  him,  or  done  him  any  good/*  to  which  w^as  added  this 
entraordinary  injunction,  that  they  should  observe  his  anni* 
wcrsarjf,  and  on  their  days,  of  commemorating  the  dead  •*  should 
absolve  his  soul  btf  name/'  a  process  whose  frecjuent  repetition 
might  naturally  be  considered  as  needless,  unless  the  pious 
bishoji  supposed  that  he  might  perhaps  commit  a  few  additional 
sins  whilst  in  purgatory. 

At  the  dissolution  Jt  was  granted  in  the  usual  manner  to  trus- 
tees, for  secular  purposes,  and  its  then  state  may  be  partly  in- 
ferred from  Lelaiid*s  desrriptioti.  "  From  Wirkensope  I  rootlf 
a  longe  by  the  pale  that  cnvironneth  the  great  wo<m1  chilled 
Roonie  wood,  by  the  space  of  2  miles  and  more,  and  then  I 
passed  over  a  little  bridge  under  the  which  renneth  Wilebeke 
iirater.  Wile  hath  2  hedde  springes,  whereof  the  one  riseth  not 
very  far  alj<»ve  Wilebek  Abbey.  The  bigger  riseth  far  of  by 
west,  and  about  Wilebek  cum  to  one  botom.  The  abbey  of 
Wilebek  is  about  half  a  mile  on  the  righte  hand  above  the  afore- 
said bridge.  One  Waulley  hath  bought  this  wood  of  the  king; 
it  longgid  as  I  hard  to  Wirkinsop  priory." 

From   Whallcy  the  original  grantee  it  came  to  Sir  Charles 

CavcndUh» 


HOTTIKOHAliSHTaB* 


C&vendUb^  youngest  son  of  the  cclebraud  Countess  of  Shrews- 
bury, by  ber  marriage  with  Sir  Willjam.  He  marrying  the 
heiress  of  Lord  Ogle,  bis  son  succeeded  to  th^t  barony,  and  be- 
came afterwards  Duke  of  Newcastle ;  this  was  the  noble  duke 
the  author  of  the  famous  Treatise  on  Horse manshipf  and 
the  builder  of  the  lir^^e  riding  bouic  here,  of  whjcl*  we  shall 
have  occasion  to  nnake  further  mention-  Though  the  duke  wa* 
very  active  durijig  tht  civil  wars  on  the  side  of  Charles,  yet 
this  seat  and  park  escaped  the  fury  of  the  Parliamentarians;  in 
other  respects,  however,  he  suffered  to  the  amount  of  nearly 
one  million  sterling.  His  grand-daoghter  and  heiress,  Margaret, 
married  John  llolli:*,  afterwards  created  Uuke  of  Newcastle; 
but  she  left  only  a  daughter  who  inherited  the  estates,  and  mar- 
rying the  Earl  of  Oxford,  another  heiress,  the  only  issue  of 
this  union^  carried  it  to  ihe  ancestor  of  the  present  noble  pro* 
prietor. 

Tlic  p;\rk  is  about  eight  raile.'?  round,  and  powerftilly  excites 
the  attention  of  the  visitor  in  his  approach  to  the  house,  as  it 
contains  several  noble  woods  of  very  ancient  and  venerable 
oaks  many  of  which  are  of  an  extraordinary  size;  we  shaU, 
however,  only  enumerate  a  few  of  them. 

The  Gteeadak  Oak  is  considered  by  Major  Rooke  as  being 
upwards  of  700  years  old.  In  Evelyn's  time  it*  was  33  feet 
in  circumference  at  the  bottom ;  the  breadth  of  the  boughs  was 
88  feet,  covering  a  space  equal  to  t>7(J  tqi>are  yards.  It  is  now 
almost  in  a  state  of  decay,  being  propped  in  several  places;  in 
some  parts  capped  with  lead  to  protect  it  from  the  wet;  ia 
others*,  secured  by  iron  bars  in  order  lo  bold  its  limbs  together; 
and  only  one  solitary  branch  evincing  any  marks  of  vegetation* 
A  coach  road,  ten  feet  three  inches  in  height,  has  been  cut 
through  it  in  1724,  whose  width  in  the  middje  is  six  feet  three 
inches,  and  the  present  circumference  above  the  arch  is  35  feel 
three  jiiches.  Yet  it  never  contained  any  great  f|uantity  of 
limber;  atleastj  not  equal  to  that    of  some  other  trees  in  this 

park 
•  Vide  Evcljn*!  *'  Silva/* 


S5f 


««tntoiijiM«ijnit* 


park  which  hav€  been  estimated  at  upwards  of  seven  cwdglit 

btindred  solid  feet. 

Tiie  Dukt^s  Walking  Stick  is  in  height  to  the  top.  111  feel 
itix  inches;  its  solid  contents  four  hundred  and  forty  feet,  and 
jits  weight  eltven  tons:  in  short,  as  Major  Kooke  observes,  H 
llnay  be  doubted  whether  this  admirable  tree  can  be  matched  in  I 
[the  kingdom. 

The  Two  Porters  have  received  their  name  from  there  having 
l^nce  been  a  gate  between  them;  their  respective  heights  are 
1 98  and  88  feet ;  and  their  circumference  38  and  34* 

In  another  part  of  the  park,  near  the  gate  which  goes  In  from 
[Worksop,  is  that  very  remarkable  production  of  vegetable  na- 
[liire,  called  the  Seven  SUlers,  from  iu  consisting  of  seven  stems 
lipringing  from  one  root  in  a  perpendicular  direction;  but  one  of 
Ivfhich  has  unfortunately  been  lately  broken  off.  Their  hf^ight 
I  is  88  feet ;  the  circumference  of  the  common  trunk  close  to  the 

groimd  is  30  feet*     Near  this  is  a  hollow  tree,  in  circumference 

20  feet  nine  inches,  supposed  to  be  30D  years  old ;  and  this  is 
re(\en  used  by  the  gume  keeper  as  a  place  of  concealment  from 

whence  he  can  unobserved  take  aim  at  the  deer. 

That  part  of  the  park  which  is  seen  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
Ifcouse,  and  in  which  the  plantations  are  upon  a  very  large 

•cale,  has  been  rendered  ornamental,  and  contains  a  vel*y  fine  < 
[piece  of  water,    occupying   a   winding   valley,  meandering  | 
[through  the  dark  foliage  of  the  surrounding  woods*  and  whose 
nttom  being  boggy  was  dug  out  by  order  of  the  late  duke,  and 
[being  made  the  receptacle  for  all  the  drainage,  is  now  com- 
[pletcly  floated.     This  charming  lake  is  a  great  embellisibrient  I 
[to  the  grotmds,  being  of  a  considerable  length  and  breadth,  and 
I  winding  with  the  most  natural  eftect  in  an  easy  but  bold  line  at  | 
tlhtf  foot  of  several  small  promontories  shaded  with  planting,  and 
presenting  the  most  picturesque  prospect*  at  every  turn- 

The  late  duke  made  many  considei^ble  alterations  and  im* 
IprovementA,  independent  o£  this  piece  of  water;  but  he  wa» 
[ralher  unlucky  in  one  proposed  embellishment,    for   having 

erected 


NOTTINGHAMSHIRE. 


353 


erected  a  mo«t  elegant^  nay  magnificent,  bridge  of  three  arebes, 
the  centre  one  of  wbich  was  ninety  feet  in  span,  and  the  litle 
ones  seventy-fiv*;  each,  it  feli  down  just  as  it  was  titiishedj  and 
when  Its  fine  elTect  was  so  nobly  and  completeTy  displayed  as 
to  add  considerably  to  the  loss  in  other  respects. 

In  the  Rein  Deer  Park,  on  the  west  side  of  the  lake,  there  is 
a  beautiful  grove  of  large  majestic  oaks,  which  are  supposed  to 
have  braved  the  tempests  upwards  of  six  centuries.* 

It  has  been  justly  said  that  few  noblemen  planted  more  than 
his  late  Grace  of  Portland,  and  none  with  greater  success; 
and  bis  very  judicious  mode  of  procedure  may  be  seen  at 
large  in  the  Survey  of  the  County  by  Mr.  Lowe,  p,  57  :  at  the 
period  of  whose  writing,  the  uncultivated  lands  which  had  been 
improved  by  that  lamented,  departed,  nobleman »  within  the 
space  of  twenty-five  years,  amounted  to  nearly  two  thousand 
five  hundred  acres;  of  which  number,  about  seven  hundred 
contain  plantations. 

Respecting  the  house  itself,  there  have  been  a  sufficient  num- 
ber of  opinions  to  warrant  the  old  adage  of  "  many  men,  &c/' 
Throsby  observes^  that  it  has  been  much  enlarged,  but  is  on  no 
regular  plan  ;  yet  appears  in  difierent  points  of  view,  on  a  scale 
Karge  and  magnificent.  He  adds,  that  very  little  remains  of  the 
old  abbey  c^xcept  the  cellar  arches ;  which  arches  are  said  by 
Mr.  Bray  to  be  the  oni^  remains.  In  these  opinions  we  should 
have  coincided^ from  a  strict  examination  of  the  outside  walls; 
but  on  enquiry,  we  were  informed  that  many  of  the  walls  of  the 
interiur  are  of  the  ancient  building,  and  that  in  some  of  the 
apartments,  even  the  sepulchral  monuments  fixed  in  these  w^alli 
are  not  destroyed,  but  only  hid  by  the  wainscot  pannels  and 
other  hangings.  What  is  seen,  however,  is  of  comparative 
modem  erection  being  begun  in  1604.  yet  it  has  towers,  turrets, 
some  small  battlements,  and  some  ballusirades,  which  aitu* 
gether  give  it  an  impressive  air  of  antiquity,  though  by  no 
Kieans  assimilating  with  our  ideas  of  an  ancient  abbey.    We 

Vot.  XIL  Z  cannot 

•  Vide  Br»j*i  Toor  to  the  Blidliad  coudUm.^ 


954^ 


IV  oTTiir^fr  A  If  tnisi. 


cannot  agree  with  a  receDt  penoiHcal  wrilcr,*  that  it  tr^ 
withom,  but  shall  atlovv  thai  iL  ba»  every  a|ipearance  of  I 
I  be  seat  of  elegance  anrl  hospitality  wiikin*  Tbuse  which  . 
called  the  new  apartments  are  very  spacious;  but  ivith  the  es- 
reptlon  of  additions,  no  great  alteration  has  taken  place  siocc  u» 
first  erection^  though  the  lai«  duke  fitted  up  all  the  principal 
r4»oms  id  their  present  slate. 

The  Equestrian  duke  of  Newcastle  built  a  most  rnagnihcent 
Riding  House  here  in  16^3«  and  finished   the  stables  in    i02a^ 
ttnder  the  direction  of  John  Smithson,  an  ingenious  architect : 
it  seems,  however,  that  hia  immediate  successors  did  not  keep  up 
his  favourite  hobby,  as  It  was  for  ifotiie  time  permitted  to  go  to 
decay t  but  is  again  restored  to  ita  original  use ;  sukI  the  great 
stable  is  now  one  of  the  finest  in  the  kingdom,  (with  the  exec 
lion  of  the  royal  ^eutiiblishment  at  Brighton,}  being  130  feet  la 
by  40  broad^  and  containing  40  stalb,  the  outside  being  linishc 
in  vvhat  may  be  called,  not  the  modem,  but  the  madenitt  style 
of  Gothic,     Thoroton  speaking  of  that  duke  to  whom  ive  havaj 
alluded,  says   "  though  he  is  so  great  a  niaster  of  horsema 
ship  (hat  though  he  be  above  eighty  yearfi  of  age>  he  very  coiv» 
stanlly  diverts  hloi^lf  with  it,  still,  insomuch  that  he  is  thougfa 
to  have  taken  as  much  pleasure  in  beholding  his  great  store  i 
choice  well  managed  horses,   (wherewith  his  Cine  stables 
continually  furnished)  appear  to  exercise  their  giiu  in  his  magsj 
nifictnt  Riding  House,  which  he  long  since  built  there  of  brick^J 
as  in  older  times  any  could  take  to  see  the  religious  perfot^f] 
mance^  of  monks  in  the  quire  of  the  great  church  of  St.  Jameeiij 
now  utterly  vajrisbed,  except  the  chapel  for  the  house  was  on^J 
part  of  it,  which  of  kte  years  also  haih  lain  buri«}d  in  tha^i 
ruins  of  lis  roof,** 

Having  thus  examined   the  outside  of  this  mansion,  we  shal| 
now  proceed  to  its  interior,  and  enter  the  1/a//,  which  is  verKl 
capacious.     On  one  side  is  a 

Hmall  Dressing  Room  which  contains  several  small  purtnuta  o( 

the! 
*  In  the  MiMitlil^  Mngnzme* 


I 
I 


JrOTTIir9BAM9HfRB.  355 

the  present  noble  family  ;  here  are  also.  Si,  Jerome  in  the  dc^ 
sen  J  Kiiig  William  the  third;  hU  iiuetn  Mary;  four  Dutch 
Caiidfe  light  pieresby  Schakkm,*  remarkably  well  done;  a  set 
of  small  paintings  of  Tarquin  and  Lucreiia,  Htrcuks  and  Om" 
phale,  Jupiier  and  Semek,  Friar  and  NunSt  all  done  in  enamel 
undtr  ^lass,  and  being  rather  in  the  style  of  Faccticc !  Here 
are  also  &mM  brottzes  of  horse?,  &c.  particularly  a  most  curioae 
group  of  a  man  on  horseback,  with  a  lion,  &c.;  these  are  real 
antiques.     We  now  ascend  the 

which  has  a  handsome  Gothic  ciejing^  with  Gothic  doors,  &c. 
to  the  varioos  rooms.     This  leads  to  the 

Small  Saloon  which  contains  the  following  portraits,  curious 
to  the  enquirer  into  British  history;  Elizabeth  Hurdwkk  of 
Hard  wick  in  Derbyshire,  Countess  of  Shrewsbury  ;  a  portrait, 
three-quarter  length,  in  Chancellor's  robes  ;  Lady  Jane  Caven- 
dish, eldest  daughter  of  William  Duke  of  Newcastle;  she  mar* 
ried  Charles  Cheneyj  Esq,  of  Cheshara  Bois,  and  actually  kept 
garrison  at  Welheck,  against  the  Parliament  forces;  Lady 
Catharine  Damkyt  natural  daughter  of  James  the  second  by 
Catharine  Sedley ;  she  was  Baroness  of  Darlington,  and  mar- 
ried  first  James  Earl  of  Anglesey,   secondly  James  SheiBeld^ 

Z  2  Duke 

^  Walpole  observes  that  Godfrey  Schakktn  was  a  ^at  maieer  of  lucks  in 
tbc  an,  or  Ihe  Di*>b  could  decide  on  merit,  He  was  born  at  Dortp  and  soao 
began  to  display  hi»  genius ;  but  hit  chief  pmcUce  was  to  paint  catulJe-ligbti, 
He  phced  tlie  object  and  a  candle  iu  a  dark  room  ;  and  looking  through  a 
tmail  hu!e,  puimed  b;  day  light  wliat  lie  «aw  in  Ihe  dark  chamber^  Sotue- 
tiiEca  he  tiid  portraiis  in  that  mamiefj  and  catuc  lo  England  with  that  view; 
but  found  ibe  buiinc&t  loo  much  eogrossed  by  KneJIei  and  others.  Yet  ha 
once  drew  king  Willinm;  but  as  the  piece  wm  lo  be  by  candle- lightj  he  gavo 
his  vnnje*iy  the  candle  to  hotdj  till  the  tallovr  run  dovrn  hh  ficigera.  As  if  to 
justitj  (his  ilJbreedingt  be  drew  his  own  picture  in  the  same  iitutition.  Deti- 
cacy  wajno  part  of  his  character.  Hariiig  drawn  a  lady  who  was  marked 
with  the  imaJI  pox,  but  had  handiome  hands,  aho  liaked  bim,  when  tbe  face 
wasfinbbed,  if  she  must  not  -tit  for  her  hao^s  ?  "No,  replied  the  boor,  I  alw^ayi 
draw  lliem  from  ray  bouit  maid  I" 


&S6  VOtTIVOBAMSHIEX. 

Duke  of  Normanby  and  Buckingham,  by  whom  she  was  motifer 
of  the  1a%t  duke  of  that  title;  her  6gure  in  waxwork  is  one  of 
those  shewn  at  Westminster  Abbey ;  Henry  Cavenduk,  Lord 
Ogle,  who  married  Lady  Elizabeth  Percy,  daughter  of  Josce- 
line  last  Earl  of  Northumberland;  same  lady,  who  married 
secondly  Charles  Seymonr,  Duke  of  Somerset;*  Charles  Cavenr 
disk,  Lor«l  Mansfield;  Lady  Harriet  Cavendish,  daughter  of  the 
Duke  of  Newcastle,  married  to  Lord  Harley,  »ftevwards  Emrl  of 
Oxford;  a  curious  head,  resembling  Martin  Lsither,  bat  our 
Cicerone  having  no  list  and  not  being  a  connoisseur,  it  wa* 
with  difficulty  that  the  names  of  any  of  the  portraits  coold  b« 
obtained  except  those  which  had  them  painted  ckkcr  mi 
the  frames  or  the  canvas.  Here  are  also  some  very  handsome 
enamels  of  the  Resurrection,  the  Magdalen,  Christ  and  #fe 
woman  qf  Samaria,  &c. 

The  Drawing  Room  contains  some  very  superb  French  plate 
glass;  and  iselegiintly  filled  up  with  plain  pink  walls,  and  light 
gilding. 

The  Breakfast  Room  has  a  good  likeness  of  Afchhiskof  Laud 
ra  lawn  sTeev^s^  with  short  hair ;  a  late  Duke  and  one  of  bis 
brothers;  a  small  one  of  the  late  Duke  when  young ;  Miss  Cast' 
ning  niece  to  the  present  duchess. 

The  Dining  Room  is  59  feet  by  SG,  and  has  an  elegant  coved 
cieling.  The  portraits  consist  of,  Matthew  Prior,  that  eminent 
[^oet,  so  justly  celebrated  for  the  easy  humour  and  elegant  taste 
of  his  writings;  he  was  son  of  a  joiner  in  the  city  of  London, 
yet  became  secretary  to  the  English  embassy  in  the  Congress 
at  the  Hague  in  1690,  and  a  gentleman  of  the  king's  bedcham- 
hiiT,  &c.  being  first  noticed  by  the  Earl  of  Dorset  and  others, 
for  his  classical  attainments  at  Westminster  School,  whilst  liv- 
ing 

•  Sli«  vvas  tir".l  wife  of  this  proverbial/y  proud  duke  of  Somerset.  Afttr  her 
Jeath,  he  luarrit'd  a  second  wife;  but  even  with  these  compuuions  of  his  bed 
ind  bosom  he  seems  to  have  avoided  all  faiuiliaritj*,  for  one  evening,  when 
alone,  the  second  duchess  having  in  a  graceful  matronly  manner  thiowu  her 
arm  round  his  neck,  he  frowned  and  exclaimed,  *'  Madam  I  that  it  a  libcr^ 
my  first  wife  ut^vcrtook,  and  she  wot  cs  Perc^!^ 


MOTTHtSHAMSIIIIlC. 


w. 


I 


img  wiik  his  unde^  a  vifimer  at  Charing  CrOss  :  this  accounts 
for  his  professed  coiiiempt  of  genealogy  in  the  wel!  known 
epttaph  written  by  himself;*  William  Cavendish,  Duke  of  New- 
castle, the  active  and  Inyal  friend  of  the  unhappy  Chirles;  his 
costume  it  a  rest  of  black  with  slashed  <»1eeyes,  and  an  im- 
mense lace  ruff;  his  s^vord  is  gold  hilteil,  the  garter  is  on  hi^ 
legj  and  there  are  roses  in  his  shoes  j  portrait  of  an  ancient 
baron  with  a  lady  and  two  children^  ?ery  4ike  the  utifortunate 
Earl  ofStraflTord;  the  Earl  of  Strafford,  a  whole  leiigdi,  by 
Vandyke ;  Sir  Hugh  Middkton,  has  grey  hair  cut  short,  a 
moderate  sized  tn%  and  turned  up  lace  rulHes  \  he  was  a  public 
spirited  man,  and  a  very  great  benefactor  to  the  city  of  London, 
hy  planning  and  completing  the  New  River  j  but  like  all  other 
projectors  he  greatly  impaired  bis  Cbrtune  by  this  work,  ihough 
it  repaid  him  in  part  before  hisd^ath;  he  was  first  knighted, 
and  next  created  a  haronet»i>y  kin^  James  the  hrst;  it  appears 
by  the  Gen/s  Mag,  VoL  p.  917,  that  his  great,  great,  great, 
grand  children  are  now  living  near  E^ceter,  with  large  families 
byt  u«t  the  greatest  share  of  this  world's  good& 

The  Library  is  44  feet  by  BQ;  itsckling  is  in  tbe  flMid<r«- 
thic,  and  its  chimney  piece  in  the  same  style;  in  &hort  its  i^  hole 
ittiug  itp  in  panne U,  windows,  &c.  &c.  is  an  elegant  modem 
imitation  of  thai  style  of  architecture.  Atone  end  is  a  very 
handsome  paiming  ol*  an  angel  contemplating  a  crucifix  sur.- 
r-ounded  by  a  divine^glary. 

The  Vest ibuk  conimn^  a  view  of  tlie  race  ground  at  New- 
market, t<igeiher  with  portraits  of  favourite  horses,  dogs,  and 
<»ther  animals. 

The  visitor  is  next  conducted  to  a  Dressing  Room,  which 
though  it  cantiot  be  called  superb,  or  even  elegant,  is  yet  ex* 
trumeiy  curious  from  the  number  of  inlaid  and  other  cabinets, 
and  the  profusion  of  fancy  piece?*  which  adorn  its  walls. 

Z^  Met 

•  *'  Lo  1   bcfc  good  rcadcrj  b^  ^our  leave* 
Bcneiiih  tlib  stone,  Ji«  Matthew  Prior  j 
The  ton  of  Adam  and  of  £trc. 


It  VOTTIKGHAMiaiEl* 

Her  Grocers  Dressing  Room  is  a  rery  pleasing  aparlment, 
contains  ioroe  curious  specimens.  Here  is  a  modtil  of  f>n  An* 
iique  head  by  Scbiavoneui;  a  smnll  figure  of  CharUsihefim 
on  horseback,  copied  from  Vandyke,  and  ihe  hor*e  d»»nr  by 
Wootton;  the  014  Roman  supping  on  turnips,  and  refuMng  the 
bribes  of  tbe  ambafisadors  of  Pcrsius;  Date  Obolum  HeUsario  ; 
iwo  Italian  Landscapes  by  P.  Laura  ;  a  Saint  fed  by  angets ;  a 
most  curious  ancient  painting  of  a  lady ;  Dutcb  Bofirs;  ^niedlj 
original  of  Edward  the  sixth,  in  crimson  aiid  gokl;  whole 
length  of  i^ueen  EUzahcth  by  Lucas  de  Heerc.on  horseback  ;  in 
Ihe  background,  a  view  of  ihe old  mansion  at  Wanstead  \  Spanish 
I ,  G^ey  singing  to  the  Guitar;  a  fine  head,  apparently  of  tbe^ 
Spanish  school. 

The  Smait  Dressing  Room  is  merely  mentioned  m  possessing  I 
a  portrait,  (but  that  is  a  jewel)  of  Gertrude  Pierpoint,  youni^^er  j 
^daughter  of  the  Hon.  William   Pierpoiiitj  she  married  George 
Saville,  Marquis  of  [ialifax. 

The  Chapel  has  a  very  comfDiLabie  gallery  opening  from  thii 
floor:  below  it  is  fitted  up  likt'    a  country  church,  with  GothinJ 
wifidowt  in  leaden  diamond  squariSt  ur  lozenges^  &c« 

Upon  the  ^  hole,  though,  withtlit  exception  of  the  libraryij 
there  is  nothing  extraordinarily  superb ;  yfl  still  nemii^ir  alloirl 
this  maniiion  to  be  neatly  elegant>  without  either  gaudtnes^  or  ' 
profusion* 

The  next  ramble,  which  the  inquisitive  tourist  will  undertake, 
•is  to 

CLUMBER  PARK, 


ihe  elegant  residence  of  his  Grace  t^  Newcastle.  Proceerlrnp  ' 
along  the  Mansfield  road,  a  picturesque  scene  presents  itself 
cut  through  the  rocks,  amidst  overhanging  wood^;  which  add 
much  to  the  wi  Idness  of  the  scenery ;  bul  the  country  soon 
opens  into  a  wide  and  half  uncultivated  tract,  soon  alter  which 
the  road.^  divide,  the  turn  to  the  left  leading  to  OUerton  and,  at 

a  distance 


KOTTlirGBAMSBItH. 


559 


a  distance  af  two  inUe&  from  Worksop^  presentrng  an  uncouth 
paih«  through  b^avy  sand^^j  that  leads  to  the  park  gatCj  a  modern 
erectioft  of  handnome  ^tone  work  with  an  old  lodge.  On  en- 
tering this,  a  splendid  scene  presents  itself,  amd  following  the 
trackj  the  visitor  finds  himself  almost  in  a  desert,  amongst  woods, 
rough  lawns,  rising  grounds,  and  small  billH  broken  into  steep 
cliils,  crowncsd  with  planting  and  feathered  even  to  their  bases. 
Amidist  this  sylvan  scene,  some  marks  of  rude  coHivaUon  ac- 
company him  for  two  miles,  when  the  mansion  bursts  at  once 
upon  his  view  ;  bui  standing  rather  low,  it  does  not  at  first  make 
an  impression  ecjnal  to  the  ideas  with  which  the  mind  is  filled 
froTTi  the  approach.  Yet  its  front  of  white  stone,  brought  a  dis* 
tance  of  five  mile?  from  a  quarry  on  the  estate,  has  an  air  of  mag- 
nrBcence  ;  and  the  whole  mass  of  building,  including  the  very 
spacious  court  of  offices  to  the  left,  form^  a  fine  contrast  with 
the  rising  hill  beyond  it,  and  with  the  large  piece  of  water  oc- 
cupying the  extended  bosom  of  a  winding  vale,  and  terminated 
by  an  elegant  bridge  of  white  stone  in  a  most  superb  style  of  ar* 
chitectore. 

In  contemplating  the  scenery  around,  we  must  not  forget 
that  this  park,  now  eleven  miles  in  compass,  was  not  many  years 
ago  a  large  extent  of  wild  forest  land,  through  which  the  pub- 
lic roads  still  lead  with  the  usual  direction  posts,  Mr*  Young 
who  visited  it  in  its  infancy,  for  it  is  entirely  a  new  creation  of 
the  late  duke's,  observes  that  his  Grace  was  then  planting  on  so 
Jarge  a  scak^  and  reducing  such  a  quantity  of  the  Ung  land  to 
profitable  grass,  that  the  place  in  a  tew  y^irs  would  not  be 
known  ;  and  he  adds,  that  the  extent  of  the  new  plantations  was 
then  so  great  as  to  promise  to  be  not  only  an  ornament  to  all 
the  country,  but  a  soursc  of  immense  profit  to  the  faintly.  Mr. 
Lowe  also,  in  his  Agricultural  Survey,  tells  us  that  it  contains 
about  4000  acres,  yet  not  half  a  century  ago  it  was  little  more 
than  a  black  htath  full  of  rabbits,  having  a  narrow  river  running 
through  it,  with  a  small  boggy  close  or  two;  but  now  *'  besides  a 
Hiagnificcnt  mansion  and  noble  lake  and  river  with  extensive 

Z  4  plantations. 


96o  wonncBAumnn. 

plantations^  aboat  MOO  acres  are  broogbt  into  a  regidtf  and 
excellent  course  of  tillage,  maintaining  at  the  same  time  be- 
tween three  and  four  thousand  sheep,  and  all  in  his  Grace's  oo- 
copation.''  This  was  fifteen  years  ago^  and  great  improTcments 
both  in  planting  and  in  cultivation  are  still  going  on  under  the 
auspices  of  the  present  noble  proprietor.  Even  at  the  period 
when  Mr.  Young  wrote,  the  then  duke  had  the  largest  farm  yard 
in  the  county;  our  researches,  indeed,  into  this  part  of  the 
economy  were  not  so  minute  as  those  of  that  intelligent  traTel* 
ler,  we  shall  therefore  observe  on  his  authority  that  eT«i  ihe 
'^  Hog  houses  are  very  convenient,  in  emptying  the  wash, 
grains^  &c.  directly  out  of  the  cisterns  through  the  wall  into  the 
troughs."  In  this  park  also  are  the  remains  of  two  woods  of 
venerable  old  oaks,  one  of  which  gives  name  to  the  place,  being 
called  Clumber  Wood,  the  other  is  Hardwick  wood ;  and  Mr. 
Lowe  adds,  that  since  they  have  been  shut  in  from  cattle,  the 
young  trees  are  springing  up  surprisingly,  firom  the  acorns. 
When  Mr.  Lowe  wrote,  the  whole  of  these  plantations,  within 
the  park,  amounted  to  one  thousand  eight  hundred  and  forty* 
eight  acres.* 

With  respect  to  the  Hou$e  itself,  so  much  has  been  said  in 
its  praise,  that  it  is  difficult  to  find  novel  terms  in  which  to  exr 
press  its  elegance.  It  has  been  said  that  it  embraces  magni- 
ficence and  comfort  more  than  any  other  nobleman's  mansion 
in  England ;  that  every  thing  reflects  the  highest  credit  on  the 
taste  displayed  in  the  accommodations  and  ornaments  found  in 
this  delightful  retreat;  and  that  in  this  princely  abode  the 
writer  of  romance,  (and  why  not  the  reader  also?)  might  enrich 
his  fancy,  and  the  poet  imagine  himself  wandering  through  an 
enchanted  palace. 

This 

•  Vide  Lowe's  Survey,  p.  5S.  "  In  the  extemlve  enclosares  made  bj  hit 
Grace  in  Elkeslej,  Bothamsellj  &c.  the  quick  hedges,  which  an  remark- 
ably  fine,  were  raised  with  posts  and  rails^  the  thinnings  of  those  plantationi. 
I  was  assured,  some  years  since,  that  sixty  miles  rnnaiog  measure  had  be«n 
done  iu  tbi4  manner ;  and  by  this  timp  it  most  amount  to  doable  that  nambcr." 


KOTTIHGHAMSIITRI* 


35l 


I 


I 


This  truly  magnificent  mansioa  consists  of  three  fronts;  and 
in  the  centre  of  that  which  faces  the  lakej  there  h  a  very  light 
Ionic  colonade  which  has  a  pleasing  etFect^  and  particularly  &o 
in  that  hannonious  whole  which  is  best  seen  from  the  loAy 
bridge  over  the  extensive  piece  of  water. 

The  Entrance  Hail  is  yery  lofty  and  $up|>orted  by  pillars^  It 
contaioB  a  very  large  picture  of  Clumber  by  Wheatley,  with 
the  present  Duke's  grandfather  and  some  frietiJs  setting  out  on 
a  shooting  party ,  this,  however^  is  a  view  of  the  old  house# 
which  has  been  considerably  altered  and  added  to  by  his 
late  Grace,  this  picture  aho  has  portraits  of  favourite  dogs;  two 
paintings  of  sieges  with  reconnoitring  parties;  an  elegant  mar- 
ble medallion  of  Dotph  in  and  Trii  om  exquisitely  executed;  a 
marble  table  iulaid  with  landscapes ;  another  tesselated ;  their 
frames  highly  wrought,  and  richly  gilt;  here  arc  also  some  an* 
tique  busts,  originals. 

A  lofty  stone  Staircase  next  presents  itself;  with  a  very, 
handsome  iron  railing,  "  curiously  wrought  and  giU  in  the 
shape  of  crowns  with  lassils  hanging  down  between  them  from 
cords  twisted  in  knots  and  festoons/'  It  is  adorned  with^  the 
ifi/ca/ club  and  Dr.  Meausobre  giving  lectures,  by  Doddridge; 
a  marble  model  of  the  Laocoon  groupe,  exquisitely  finished  ; 
two  elegant  marble  vases;  small  painting  of  Apoih  and  ihe 
Hours  preceded  bjf  Aurora,  and  exhibiting  thus  at  one  %'iew  the 
diflerenl  effects  of  the  mornnig'i  dawn  on  iand  and  sea,  each 
accurately  defined  and  charmingly  contrasted.  On  the  upper 
part  of  this  staircase  are  some  Roman  sepukkrai  monuments  in 
good  preservation. 

The  Library  is  a  large*  scjuarej  lofty,  room,welL  lighted^  and 
containing  a  splendid  and  well  chosen  collection  of  English, 
foreign,  and  classical  literature.  The  only  painting  it  possesses 
is  over  the  tireplace,  a  very  line  copy  by  Kent,  from  HapbaeTs 
School  qf  Athens.  From  lUis  apartment  there  is  a  charming 
prospect,  in  alt  directions^  of  the  lake  and  pleasure  grounds. 

The   SFHait  Library  contains  a  portrait  as  old  as  1500,  of  a 

Countesa 


CoaaleM  ^lAnooh,  daojffbMr  of  tbe  Earl  of  Stldare,  <iii «  rick 
stitiqae  ooBtome,  t^ry  curioa* ;  many  fsiiiily  pictorep,  cousin* 
Ukg  of  the  Uite  Lord  Lincoln,  a  whole  length  by  Hoare ;  the  late 
4«ke'8  father  and  mother;  Ihe  present  duke's  iathar  and 
mother;  the  late  duke>  &c^;  and  a  handsome  drawing  of  a 
^ross  in  the  ancient  chapel  at  Haaghton  park  near  Tnxfbrd, 
laow  10  roins,  ^ot  which  the  present  dake  is  fitting  op  in  order 
t|a  form  a  aepulchrai  dboAe  for  fotore  generations. 
.  The  Dukes'  Study  has  an  antique  portrait  of  the  first  iSsrf  ^ 
&arc  of  the  present  family's  ancestors ;  Edward  Earl  qf  Imh 
€9h  by  Holbein  ;  'nomoBDuke  of  Newcastle}  Mr.  Henry  Pd* 
ioM,  in  his  gown  as  Chancellor  of  the  Exchequer  ;  hii 
Hliogbter  Miss  Felham,  grandmother  of  the  present  duke ;  Sir 
Hemy  CMifcm,  Commander  in  Chief  of  the  British  aray. 
daring  part  of  the  American  contest:  a  very  renlarkable  snail 
original  of  Hemy  the  eighth,  more  thoughtful  in  expressieo 
than  his  usual  portraits;  also  two  smaTl,  but  well  done  land- 
•capes  by  a  young  artist.  Binge  of  TickhilU  patronised  by  bis 
Grace. 

The  Duke  and  Duchesset^  Bedroom  was  formerly  n  stody, 
but  in  the*  present  alteration  of  the  house,  is  fitting  op  for 
the  above  purpose.  Of  its  old  furniture,  it  still  contains  an 
immense  vellum  pedigree  of  the  family,  not  an  inappropriate 
ornament;  two  whole  lengths  of  George  the  second  and  qoeen 
Caroline;  and  a  very  interesting  portrait  of  Mary  Queen  of 
Scots,  evidently  done  towards  the  close  of  her  chequered  and 
unhappy  life;  she  is  in  mourning,  with  slashed  sleeres,  &c. 

The  Common  Dining  Room  contains  an  exquisite  Madona 
and  Child  with  St.  John  by  Battoni ;  two  fine  flower  pieces 
by  Van  Noss ;  two  by  Teniers,  one  of  cardplayers  with  the 
date  1661,  the  other  a  large  landscape  of  a  brickfield,  &c.  but 
done  in  a  cold  style  very  unlike  the  other  works  of  that  mas- 
ter; a  large  battle  piece  well  done;  first  Earl  qf  Lincoln;  two 
views  of  Venice,  by  Canal etti ;  t^^o  cattle  pieces  by  Rosa  de 
Ttroli;  small  landscape  by  Claude  Lorraine;  a  wild  landscape 

by 


WOTTlKGBAMStllEB- 


56$ 


1>y  Salvator  Rosa;  two  fine  heads  by  Rubens ;  and  the  Prodigal 
Son  by  Domenichitio* 

The  Small  Drawing  Rocm  has  s  large  and  very  tint;  picture 
by  T«iijer$ ;  some  well  done  female  heads  in  crayons  by  Hoare; 
and  a  line  piece  of  game  by  Rubens;  but  it^  greatest  ornament 
is  the  portraii  qf  an  Orator  by  Rembrandt,  Here  also,  amongst 
a  variety  of  other  ext^uisite  specimens,  is  the  famous  piece  by 
Corregio  of  Sigimvunda  wtephtg  over  the  heart  of  Tancrcd^  To 
describe  this  exqiiiHiie  specimen  of  the  power  of  the  pencil,  ia 
fkt  beyond  our  tatcnis;  the  expression  is  even  more  than  ima* 
gin ation  would  have  expected  ;  and  the  siieni  tenr,  for  silent  it 
is  in  comparison  with  the  features,  is  done  with  such  a  degree  of 
trutb  that  one  expects  to  see  it  fall.  This  crelebrated  picture 
was  once  the  property  of  Sir  Luke  Schaub,  and  though  saidUi 
be  painted  by  Corregio>  is  thought  by  Horace  Wulpoie  to  have 
been  probably  a  production  of  Furino.  The  same  noble  author 
adds  that  it  is  impossible  to  see  the  picture^  or  to  read  Dry* 
den's  inimitable  tale^  and  not  leel  that  the  same  soul  animated 
both.  Hogarth  from  a  contempt  of  the  ignorant  ririuosi  of  his 
time,  and  from  indignation  at  the  impudent  tricks  of  picture  dea- 
lers whom  he  saw  continually  recommending  and  vending  vile 
copies  to  bubble  collectort,  and  from  having  never  studied,  in- 
deed having  seen  few  good  pictures  of  the  Italian  masters,  per* 
tuadcd  himself  that  ihe  praises  bestowed  on  these  glorious 
works  were  nothing  but  the  efFects  of  prejudice.  He  talked 
this  language,  till  he  believed  it;  and  having  heard  it  often  as- 
serted, as  indeed  is  true,  that  time  gives  a  mettowness  to  cO' 
lours  and  improves  them,  he  not  only  denied  the  proposition, 
but  maintained  the  contrary.  He  even  went  further ;  he  de- 
termined to  rival  the  ancients,  and  unfortunately  chose  t/iis,  one 
of  the  finest  subjects  in  England,  as  the  object  of  his  compe- 
lition. 

After  many  essays,  he  at  length  produced  his  Sigistnunda, 
"hut  no  more  like  Sigismunda,  than  I  to  Ht?rculcs'r!  not  to 
mention  the  wretchedness  of  the  colourings  it  was  thu  re  pre - 

t9  entationa 


I 


I 


9Al  VeTVIII«HAM8Htmi*: 

.«eiiUltonof  a  Maudlio  Mr  just  iarned  oat  of  keeping  mi 

ivith  eyes  red  with  rage  and  usquebaugh*  tearing  off  the  omt« 
nieiits  her  keeper  bad  given  her.  To  add  to  the  disgust  raised 
by  such  vulgar  expression,  her  fingers  were  blooded Jby  ber 
iover's  heart  that  lay  before  her  like  thai  of  a  sheep  for  ber  din- 
ner* Noi4^  of  the  sober  grief,  no  dignity  of  suppressed  an- 
guish, no  involuntary  tear,  no  settled  meditation  on  the  £ite  she 
meant  to  meet,  no  amorous  wanntb  turned  holy  by  despair;  in 
short  all  was  wanting  that  should  have  been  there,  all  was  tbeie 
that  such  a  story  should  have  banished  from  a  mind  capable  of 
conceiving  such  complicated  woe:  woe  so  sternly  felt  and  yet 
so  tenderly.  Hogarth's  peiformance  was  more  ridiculous  thaa 
any  thing  he  bad  ever  ridiculed.  He  set  the  price  of  400 
guineas  on  it,  and  had  it  returned  on  his  hands  by  the  person 
for  whom  it  was  painted.  He  took  subscriptions  for  a  plate  of 
it,  but  had  the  sense  to  suppress  it* 

Thus  §Ar  says  the  late  Lord  Orford ;  to  which  we  may  add 
that  Smolkt  has  introduced  the  same  circumstance  into  his 
novel  of  Peregrine  Pickk^  where  he  makes  Pallet  Ute  painter 
boast  of  the  charms  of  '<  bin  Cleopatra.'' 

As  a  companion  to  the  Sigismunda,  there  is  on  tiM  same 
side  of  the  apartment,  Artemisia  with  the  cup  containing  her 
husbands  ashes,  by  Guido;  also  BuplUm  qf  Christ,  by  Battisti 
Franco;  two  landscapes  by  Poussin;  four  views  of  Venice  by 
Can^lelti;  two  heads  expressing  Smell  and  Taste  by  Robeniu 
highly  interesting;  Magdalen  with  a  crucifix  and  scull, by  Tre* 
vissani;  country  church,  by  Rubens,  inimitable;  two  attacks 
of  convoys,  by  Van  der  Meulen ;  a  large  landscape  by  Poussin# 
with  the  most  accurate  and  brilliant  distavce  we  have  ever  wit- 
nessed !  Flemish  village  by  Teniers;  and  the  inside  of  an  an* 
cient  building  in  a  most  superb  style  of  architecture,  illuminated 
both  by  torch  and  girandole  lights;  the  artist  is  unknown,  bu| 
the  eflect  is  exquisite  in  the  contrast  between  the  general  and 
fixed  glare  of  the  principal  light  issuing  from  the  girandole  and 

reflected 

-      -  '  Vide  Walpole's  Work,  Vol.  3. p.  460, 


r 


KOTTIVOHAMSIIIAE* 


3SS 


reflected  by  numerous  pillars,  and  that  of  the  almost  moving 
torch ei  whose  beams  irradiate  in  partial  gkam«  the  inmost  re* 
ressefi  of  the  long  drawn  aisles  uf  the  edifice. 

The  Great  Dmiuing  Room  has  a  mo»t  capital  portrait  of 
Rcmhrandi  by  him^'lf;  a  Lion  and  Boar  by  Snyder?,  exquisirclr 
tlonf,  and  roloured  nitli  a  degree  uf  warmth  etjual  toRiibeiis! 
iirdcud  ill  is  piece  has  been  aitnbiited  by  some  comioi&senrs,  bnt 
iDipriiperly*  to  that  miisier;  the  Discovery  of  Cyrus  by  Caiti- 
glione  ;  Rinaido  and  Annida  by  Vandyke,  but  she  has  too  niucb 
of  the  Dutch  woman  about  her ;  St.  George  and  the  Dragon^ 
by  Rubens  ;  a  ino^t  extraordinary  production  of  old  Franks, 
being  a  Cabinet  of  Paintings  in  which  his  own  portrait  in  intro* 
duced;  the  colouring  is  rich  yet  chaste,  and  every  part  is  as 
highly  hnished  as  the  smallest  cabinet  pieces;  Diana  and  her 
nymphs  Imntingi  by  Rubens;  Sacrifice  to  Pan>  by  And,  Saccbi ; 
a  most  exquisite  moonlight  piece  ^  and  a  virgin  encircled  by 
angels,  by  Michael  Angelo* 

The  Bfxakfati  Room  has  also  a  number  of  paintings.  Here 
are  a  virgin  and  child  by  Albert  Durer:  a  landscape  contain- 
'  ing  the  four  seasons,  the  joint  production  of  Van  Beulen  and 
Breughel ;  several  sea  pieces,  and  two  landscapes,  by  Ruysdael ; 
two  beggar  boys,  remarkably  well  done  hy  Gainsborough ; 
Ijord  Tarrington  ;  Cardinal  Imperiain  by  Dominichino ;  a  minia- 
ture of  Lord  Chief  Justice  Man^fietd  by  Myers;  two  small 
OYals^  by  Angelica  Kaufflman ;  two  small  pieces  of  wild  scenes 
with  shepherds,  by  Salvalor  Rosa;  an  elegant  flower  piece  by 
Van  Huysum>  most  brilliantly  coloured  agreeable  to  nature, 
with  a  dew  drop  exquisitely  resting  on  a  tulipi  almost  equal  to 
the  tear  on  Sigi^tmunda's  cheek ;  Oliver  CromircH,  whose  cha- 
racter a4  well  as  portrait  has  been  often  drawn,  but  never  so 
pithily  as  in  one  short  sentence  which  says  that  he  '*  raised 
himself  to  the  possession  of  tlie  supreme  power  under  the  title 
of  Protector  of  the  Common  Wealth  of  England;  was  equally 
remarkable  for  his  great  militury  skill,  by  which  he  obtained  so 
many  victories  iu  th«  li^dd,  and  by  hisain;i^nig  aUilities  in  the 

cabinet. 


vorrr  ire  If  A  v sntmY. 


cabinet^  irhich  enableil  him  to  overcome  all  opposition  ai  faooe« 
and  to  strike  even  the  most  powerful  nations  abfiad  with  ter- 
ror."  Vandyke  has  a  very  grand  production  liere  of  a  Wed- 
dingjtoji,  which  h  not  only  remarkable  for  its  tine  colour  aod 
finish,  but  particularly  so  for  the  very  high  preserTatJon  in 
which  it  exists  at  thia  day. 

But  the  greatest  glory  of  Clumber  is  the  State  Dttstjio  Soon, 
a  moist  magnificent  apartment,  sixty  feet  in  length*  thirty -four 
in  breadth,  and  in  height  thirty ;  it  h  sufficiently  large  to  ac- 
commodate one  hundred  and  fitly  guests  at  tahle^  iodependcnl 
of  a  superb  recess  or  saloon  for  the  sideboard,  &c*  The  cieling 
and  panneb  are  extremely  rich  in  stucco  and  gildmg;  yet 
chaste  without  glare ;  the  lustres  are  of  the  finescciit  glass;  and 
the  marble  chimney  piece  and  steel  grate,  may  be  sef  n,  btit 
cunrtot  be  described  ;  they  are  in  fact  an  honour  to  Englifh  losUr 
and  execution.  The  other  ornaments  of  this  august  apariAienl 
are  few  in  number,  yet  rich  in  value;  being  estimated  at  2a/KK>/, 
sterling,  and  only  seven  distinct  pieces.  Four  of  theatf  arc 
Market  pieces  by  the  joint  penciU  of  Snyder  and  Long  J<»hn  ; 
and  consisting  of  a  display  of  flesh,  fish,  and  fowl,  fruit  %wk 
vegetables.  Over  the  chimney  piece  is  a  large  paintlj)  f  '  nj 
game  by  Wenix ;  and  there  arc  two  landscapes  by  Z  i. 

If  Clumber  possessed  no  other  paintings  than  those  of  this  apart* 
ment,  the  time  ami  attention  of  the  touristy  or  artist,  would  be 
amply  repaid  by  their  examination.  The  display  of  maguw 
ficence  here  must  indeed  be  striking,  when  the  apartiueot  is 
prepared  for  its  ostensible  purpose,  lighted  up  lu  the  usual  bril- 
liant manner,  amidst  the  dazzling  radiance  of  a  glillering  and 
superb  sideboard*  and  the  sparkling  services  of  glass*  &c.  In 
fact,  even  the  housekeeper  herself,  who  acted  as  oifr  Cicerone, 
seemed  >varmed  into  enthusiasm  and  astonishment,  and  like 
Katterfelto  with  bis  hair  an  end  wondering  at  his  own  wonders, 
was  scarcely  able  to  describe  that  exquisite  brilliancy  which  she 
had  rissisted  in  arranging  on  a  late  visit  of  some  of  the  royal 
fcunily  to  this  splendid  abode  of  hospital ity» 

It 


KOTTIKOHAMSBIEE*  Wf 

It  lias  been  saldi  that  Rubens  assisted  ui  the  four  large  pieces, 
and  that  he  has  introduced  hinii^elf  into  one  of  them  in  the  cha- 
racter of  a  butcher,  accompanied  by  his  two  wivei?.  The  view 
of  the  grounds  and  water  from  this  room  are  also  exquisite. 

The  Chapel  is  a  very  pleasing  apartment,  admirably  filled  for 
its  purpose,  and  having  a  very  sombre  effect  from  the  four  win- 
dows of  stained  glass,  in  which  the  family  arms  are  very  hand- 
somely emblazoned-  Here  are  a  Dead  Christ,  ami  a  Hoiy 
Family,  copies  after  Raphael ;  but  we  believe  no  original^. 

The  Dressing  Room  up  stairs,  formerly  the  duchesses,  but 
now  changed  for  one  on  the  principal  floor,  is  exquisiLely  fur- 
nished with  fancy  pieces.  Here  are  some  very  fine  fruit 
pieces^  an  inlaid  table  of  curions  workmanships  &c«  and  the 
view  from  the  windows  U  delightful,  Here  are  also  seven  very 
fine  paintings  in  water  colours,  of  ancient  Roman  taste,  brought 
from  Herculaneum. 

The  furniture  and  decorations  of  ihe  Bed  rooms  are  tnosC 
superb ;  the  beds  are  dited  up  in  imitation  of  Lents  and  pavi* 
lions-  with  their  curtains  even  picturesquely  arranged;  to  aH 
which  we  must  add  immense  mirrors,  both  hanging  and  porta* 
tile,  highly  finished  cielingsi,  Turkey  carpets,  inlaid  cabinets, 
and  a  number  of  chronometers  mounted  in  masses  of  sculptarcj 
after  the  most  classical  designs.  In  short  every  thing  breatlies 
the  essence  of  taste  and  the  very  soul  of  magnificence. 

Nor  must  we  omit  the  great  conveniences  and  neatness  of  the 
household  arrangements,  particularly  the  kitchens  and  larders, 
ihe  latter  of  which  are  on  a  scale  to  contiun  whole  Hecatombs, 
yet  so  systematically  arranged  as  to  have  every  thing  in  the  best 
order  and  most  convenient  readiness.  Thouy;b  these  are  parts 
of  a  house  not  generally  shewn,  yet  the  tourist  will  not  fail  to 
be  gratified  shnuhl  his  Cicerone  indulge  him  with  a  .^ight  of  thk 
.her  own  peculiar  doniaim 

The  shortest  route  for  the  tourbt,  who  wishes  to  Sfve 


THORESBY 


OSB  VOTTHrOHAMiHimi. 

THORESBY  PARK, 

the  seat  of  earl  Manners,  is  to  cross  the  bridge  in  Clamber 
Park,  which  he  must  traverse  a  mile  farther  through  a  succes- 
sion of  sylvan  scenery,  when  be  arrives  at  a  gate  opening  to  a 
wild  wood  lane  where  there  is  another  park  gate  leading  through 
Thoresby  park  for  a  ooorse  of  nearly  two  miles,  during  which  a 
visitor  may  almost  conceive  himself  rambling  midst  transatlantic 
forests, 

'<  Miyestic  woods,  of  every  vigoroa»  green. 
Stage  above  ftage,  high  waving  o'er  the  bills  : 
Or  to  the  far  horiaon  wide  diflfiised, 
A  boundless  deep  immensitjr  of  shade." 

The  mansion  itself  stands  very  open,  in  rather  a  low  situation, 
dearly  in  the  centre  of  the  park,  and  well  backed  with  rising 
ground,  thickly  planted.  The  old  house  was  burnt  down  on  the 
fourth  of  March  1745,  and  nothing  saved  but  the  family  wri-> 
tings,  the  plate,  and  a  small  part  of  the  best  furniture  ;  after 
which,  its  then  possessor  the  duke  of  Kingston,  grandfother  to 
the  present  noble  proprietor,  built  the  present  edifice. 

As  a  modern  tourist  has  observed,*  this  is  rather  a  comforts^ 
ble  house,  than  a  magnificent  seat ;  it  consists  of  a  rustic  stone 
basement^  with  two  stories  of  brickwork,  and  the  principal  front 
is  ornamented  with  a  tetrastyle  portico  of  the  Ionic  order,  of 
a  beautiful  stone  ;  the  other  fronts  are  regularly  decorated.! 

The  principal  entrance  is  in  the  basement,  opening  into  the 
Hall,  which  is  slightly  ornamented  with  some  landscapes,  some 
sea-pieces,  a  few  good  engravings,  and  a  Chiaro  Scuro  of  the 
Trojan  horse,  &c. 

The  Eari's  Dressing  Room  opens  from  the  hall,  and  has  some 
portraits  of  Henry  earl  qf  Pembroke,  1769;  Pascal  Paoli,  177(>i 
Colonel  Sawyer ;  Admiral  Medowes,  father  of  the  present  earl 
of  Manvers  ;  also  some  sea-pieces  and  medallions. 

The  LUlle  Drawing  Room  generally  contains  many  fine  paint- 
ings ; 

•  Braj'i  Tour.  ♦  Vitruvius  Britanaicus. 


KOTriKGHAMSliiaE. 


St}9 


I 


ings;  but  these  being  taken  down,  during  some  repairs,  could 
not  be  seen. 

Inihe  Dining  Room,  ibere  is  nothing  particularly  woithy  of 
notice^  except  a  very  fine  Madona  and  infajit  Jesui. 

The  ascent  to  the  principal  story  U  by  a  double  staircase  la 
llie  centre  uf  the  mansion,  single  at  the  coraroencement,  but 
dividing  at  the  top  of  the  first  flight,  amd  opening  into  the  Dome, 
a  circular  apartment  of  factitious  marble,  supported  by  four- 
teen pillars  alternately  round  and  square,  on  which  rests  a  gal- 
lery balluslraded,  and  opening  into  the  upper  chambers.  The 
light  is  admitted  from  a  handsome  circular  skylight;  and  the 
wallh  are  composed  of  a  substance  forming  a  very  correct  imi- 
tation of  yellow  variegated  marble,  beautifully  contrasting  wiih 
the  white  pi Ifars  and  pilasters,  and  others  resembling  rer<f  an* 
tique;  the  floor  is  laid  with  the  same  substance,  tesselated. 

Ihe.  Dining  Room  is  very  handsomely  fitted  up,  with  curious 
twisted  pillars  forming  a  recess  at  one  end.  Its  other  ornaments 
are  only  a  portrait  of  Earl  Howe,  and  a  well  executed  land- 
scape of  Ben  Lomond  and  its  loch* 

The  Octagonal  Drawing  Room  has  a  very  fine  efiect,  when 
viewed  from  the  staircase.  Ii  is  supwrbly,  yet  we  might  say 
plainly,  fitted  up,  nc»tvvithstanding  the  elegance  of  its  gilding,' 
It  contains  only  a  portrait  of  Evelyn^  duke  of  Kingston,  and  a 
well  moulded  bust  of  Pascal  Paoli,  of  whom  it  has  beenju3itv 
said,  that  whilst  tightihg  gallantly,  first  against  the  Genoese 
ami  then  against  the  French,  tiiis  nation  was  desirous  of  second* 
ing  his  patriotic  ardour  ;  and  that  it  stifl  reflects  no  small  share 
of  dishonour  on  the  minivers  of  a  former  period,  that  Louis  the 
fifteenth  was  ptrniitled  with  impunity  to  invade  the  territories 
of  a  free  and  independent  state.  But  a  generous  indignation 
on  the  part  of  the  people  in  some  measure  made  amends  for 
the  conduct  of  their  rnlers,  and  a  ho-'pitablc  asylum  was  at 
length  atlorded  here  to  the  gallant  chief,  ^Fter  he  had  been 
forced  to  retire  from  a  long  and  unequal  contest,* 

Vol.  XIL  2  A  Tht 

*  Vide  FubHc  clmrMTten ;  sad  Bosweirt  Corilcn. 


370  VOTTIHOHAIl8HI»S. 

The  Adtnirar 8  Gallery  is  very  low,  and  very  plain;  bal  tf 
hung  with  a  number  of  interesting  sea  pieces. 

The  Countess*s  Dressing  Room  is  peculiarly  elegant,  coiofort- 
able,  and  commodious;  superbly  fitted  up  indeed,  but  with 
every  attention  to  useful  convenience.  It  is  hung,  uay  we  may 
say  covered,  with  a  profusion  of  handsome  drawings,  land- 
scapes, miniatures,  &c.  amongst  which  is  an  inimitable  head  of 
a  boy  writing.     Here  are  also  some  elegant  cabinets. 

The  Gardens  are  very  fine,  part  of  them  constructed  by  the 
late  duchess  in  the  German  style  with  arbours,  and  treillaged  : 
and  in  the  shrubbery,  a  very  fine  cascade  forms  a  good  object 
in  the  point  of  view  from  the  apartments  in  the  back  front. 

The  Park  itself  is  thirteen  miles  round,  and  contains  several 
pieces  of  water.  The  lake  near  the  house,  which  is  very  fine, 
is  laid  out  so  as  to  represent  an  extensive  river  ;  and  which» 
being  amphitheatrically  surrounded  with  lawns  that  hang  as  it 
were  towards  the  bouse  in  varied  and  verdant  slopes,  has  a  fine 
effect,  enlivened  as  it  is  with  several  vessels  of  difl^rent  sixes. 

To  give  detailed  descriptions  of  every  spot  within  the  environs 
of  Worksop,  would  far  exceed  our  limits;  but  we  must  not 
omit  to  mention  Shire  Oakes,  as  it  is  called  from  an  ancient  tree 
of  that  name,  where  there  is  a  good  Hall  house,  fitted  up  in  a 
handsome  and  convenient  style,  the  seat  of  John  Hewett,  Esq. 
The  chapel  of  this  hamlet,  was  lately  erected  and  endowed  by 
the  Rev.  John  Hewett,  and  consecrated  by  his  grace  the  arch- 
bishop of  York. 

This  place,  as  we  have  noted,  derived  its  name  from  an  Oak, 
which  as  Mr.  Gilpin  observes,  in  respect  both  to  its  size  and  the 
dignity  of  its  situation,  deserves  honourable  mention.**^  In 
point  of  grandeur,  few  trees  in  this  country  have  ever  equalled 
it;  as  it  spread  a  space  of  ninety  feet  from  the  extremities  of 
its  opposite  boughs.  Evelyn,  in  his  Sylva,  says  it  covered  a 
superficies  of  707  square  yards;  and  these  dimensions,  accord- 
ing 10  Mr.  Gilpin's  calculation,  will  produce  an  area  capable  of 

covering 

•  CilpinU  Forest  Sc«ner^« 


jroTTlNOUAMSilllim* 


371 


GOTerlng  a  squadron  of  933  horse.  Its  <twn  dignity »  as  he  adds 
was  equalled  by  the  dignity  of  its  station,  for  it  f>tood  on  a  spot 
where  Yorkshire,  Nottinghamshire,  and  Derbyshire  unite,  and 
spread  its  shade  over  a  portion  of  each.  In  consequence  of  its 
honourable  ofi&ce  of  thus  fixing  the  boundary  of  these  large 
counties*  it  was  equally  respected  through  the  duinainsof  them 
all;  and  was  known  lar  and  wide,  by  the  distinction  of  the 
Shireoakt  by  which  appellation  it  was  marked  among  cities* 
townsj  and  rivers,  in  all  the  larger  maps  of  the  kingdom* 

Wailingweiis  are  partly  we  believe  in  this  county.  Here  is 
ihe  seat  of  Sir  Thomas  Wollaslon  White,  Bart.  Tanner  says, 
that  Ralph  de  Capreo  curia,  or  Cheurolcourt,  in  the  reign  of 
king  Stephen,  built  and  endowed  a  smat)  Benedictine  nuimery 
here^  to  the  honour  of  the  blessed  virgin  Mary.  Its  value  at 
the  dis.solution  was  59/. ;  and  it  was  granted  by  Queen  Elizabeth 
to  Richard  Pype  and  Francis  Bowyer.  It  was  originally  called 
St.  Mary  in  the  Park,  but  changed  that  appellation  from  its  si- 
tuation amongst  wellsj  fountaiJis,  and  streams. 

Crcsweil  crags  about  three  miles  from  Worksop  are,  strictly 
speaking,  in  Derbyshire,  but  so  adjacent  to  Nottmgham  as  to 
have  been  often  considered  as  part  of  that  county-  laying  out 
of  the  u.iual  track  of  good  roads,  and  the  road  from  Worksop  being 
rot:ky  and  almost  iropa^isable  for  carriages,  they  are  not  often 
visited  ;  yet  they  are  curious  and  worthy  notice,  consisting  of 
rocks  torn  by  some  convulsion  of  nature  into  a  thousand  ro- 
mantic shapes,  and  presenting  a  miniature  resemblance  of  the 
more  majestic  scenery  on  the  Derwent  at  Matlock. 

Carkton  in  Lindrick,  as  it  is  called  to  dist'uigitiab  it  from 
Carlton  on  Trent,  was  of  suQicieut  consequence  in  S*ixon  timei; 
as  to  have  six  resident  Thanes,  each  of  whom  had  a  hall  or 
manor;  but  these  were  all  swallowed  up  by  that  Levjaihanp 
Roger  de  Busli,  at  the  Norman  conquest.  The  family  of  Che- 
vercouri,  or  Cheurolconrt^  held  it  under  him,  but  their  heirs 
failing,  it  was  divided  betw^een  the  Latimers  and  Fitz  Hughs, 
from  them  it  came  to  Dacre,  Molyneux^  Tayler,  and  afterwards 

2  A  2  '  to 


97t  VOTTtirOBAHSHIUX. 

to  the  Cliflons  who  huitt  a  fine  seat  here.  It  iteems  now  to  he 
enjoyed  hy  Reveral  Gentlemen  resident  in  its  nei^bourhood ; 
particularly  SirT. White,  Bart,  Richard  Ramsden,  Esq.  and  Robert 
Kentish  Esq.  of  Wigthorpe. 

Cnrherton  though  marked  as  a  place  of  some  consequence  on 
the  maps,  is  merely  a  hamlet  of  three  or  frar  houses  in  the  pa- 
rish of  Edwinstow.  Near  it  is  Cockghde  the  seat  of  Dr. 
Aldricb>  an  elegant  mansibn  built  in  1778,  and  much  admired 
throughout  the  county  and  ricinity.  The  views  from  the  house, 
which  stands  upon  a  gentle  swell,  are  extensive  and  pleasing  ; 
and  the  woods  and  home  grounds  are  laid  out  with  great  attention 
to  picturesque  effect. 

Palcthorp,  or  Peverelthorpe,  adjoins  Thoresbf  park,  and  is 
in  the  same  parish  with  it,  (Edwinstow).  It  has  a  gt>od  inn, 
and  is  the  property  of  the  Pierpoint  family ;  but  has  passed 
through  many  hands  since  its  first  grant  to  Roger  de  Busli. 

Crossing  the  forest  into  the  high  road  from  Worksop  to  Mans* 
field,  we  come  to  Cuckney,  after  passing  the  hamlet  of  Norton 
through  heavy  sands  by  the  pales  of  Welbeck  Park.  Here  is 
much  wild  forest  scenery,  as  the  road  skirts  the  linfHs  of  Sher^ 
wood  ;  there  are  also  some  inclosures. 

Leland  in  speaking  of  this  place,  says  ''  from  this  bridge 
(Welbeck)  to  Cuckeney  village  about  a  mile :  and  ther  cam 
down  a  broke  from  west,  resorting  as  one  said  to  Wilebek 
stream,  or  Wilebek  to  it.  There  is  2  miles  by  com,  wood,  and 
pasture  to  Warksop  village  end,  ther  ran  a  Bek ;  and  this,  as 
the  other  doth,  resorteth  to  Rufford  stream." 

We  find  by  Mr.  Throsby's  authority,  that  this  village  has 
'  only  increased  to  its  present  size  and  importance  within  this 
last  half  century  ;  and  that,  in  consequence  of  the  worsted  and 
cotton  manufactories  established  within  that  period.  The  miNs 
are  on  an  extensive  and  convenient  plan,  and  give  occupation 
to  a  number  of  Children  from  the  Foundling  Hospital  in  the 
metropolis.  These  poor,  deserted  objects,  are  placed  under 
the  care  of  proper  superinteudants,  and  lodged  in  separate 
9  cottages 


VOTTlVOHAMSQtaV 


373 


collages  so  as  to  divide  the  sexes^  and  tliey  are  not  only  well 
fed,  and  provided  with  proper  medical  aid,  but  are  also,  (at  least 
in  Thronby's  time)  brought  up  in  the  knowledge  of  religious 
and  moral  duties  j  which  (uudent  regiilaiioii,  wc  understand 
is  still  adhered  to. 

The  church  is  an  extensive  ediBce^  being  126  feet  in  lengthy 
with  a  very  handsome  tower.  It  is  of  the  later  Gothic  ;  but 
may  have  been  originally  of  an  older  erection,  aa  there  is  a  frag- 
ment of  a  sepulchral  stone  in  the  floor  with  the  date  of  1351  in 
black  letter;  there  are  several  other  ancient  monumental  re* 
cords. 

The  village  is  large,  and  very  neat :  and,  in  addition  to  its 
other  manufactories,  has  a  mill  for  potij^htng  marble. 

At  Langwith,  there  was  a  seat  of  earl  Bathurst^  but  now  neg* 
iected  and  dilapidated ;  and  the  tenants  on  the  Cuekney  and 
Lang  with  estates  are  ntit  «nly  exerting  themselves  in  agricul- 
tural improvements^  but  have  lately  established  an  association 
on  a  most  excelknt  plan  for  the  prevention  and  conviction  of 
robberies,  and  agricultural  oilences, 

WarsQp  consists  of  two  villages,  about  half  a  mile  asunder  ; 
Church  War$opt  and  Market  War  sop ;  sometimes  called  the 
Church-town,  and  Fair-town. 

The  former  has  a  very  neat  Gothic  church,  and  an  anlic|ue 
vicarage  close  to  the  road  ;  the  village  lying  principally  to  the 
left.  The  latter  lies  right  in  the  road,  and  is  very  extensive, 
but  seems  of  very  ancient  architecture,  principally  farmhouses 
anJ  cottages.  It  has  two  fairs,  on  the  21st  of  May,  and  l7th 
of  November  i  mostly  fur  cattle  and  horses. 

Passing  through  Mansfield  Woudhouse,  which  shall  be  fur- 
ther noticed,  we  come  through  a  line  of  road  and  a  narrow  street 
called  Lccminglunc,^  into 

2  A  S  MANSFIELD, 


•  Derivifd  rrom  the  Biitlah  the, »  ro«d|  tnd  Aff«ii,  ■  itont ;  or  the  rotd 
on  the  r<iek* 


374 


KOTTIHGHAMSBIRC* 


MANSFIELD, 

Which  was  also  visited  by  our  predecessor.  Old  Bamaby^who 
tells  us 

"  Vcoi  Munifeld,  ubi  aortiB 
Ma  Here  u  lam  decora  in  j 
Cum  quJi,  nudum  feci  pmctunip 
Dedi  icturo^  egi  actum  ; 
Scd  pregniimem  timcni  illam 
Sprevi  vili«m  et  anciUam/' — 

)but  not  being  urged  by  the  same  reasons,  as  master  Bamaby* 
to  a  speedy  departure,  we  shall  stop  lo  take  a  view  of  this  ^cry 
ancient,  and  large,  but  straggling  town,  whose  first  sight  rather 
makes  an  unfavourable  impression  on  a  stranger,  as  its  streets 
even  in  summer  are  dirty  and  badly  paved,  its  houses  built  f>f  a 
gloomy  liK>king  sione>  and  «n  shorty  the  whole  place  in  such  a 
state,  as  if  the  word  "  Police,"  was  unknown  in  ihe  Mansfield* 
ian  lexicography.  Its  age  indeed  may  be  partly  the  cause  of 
this  sombre  expression  ;  but  still  we  conceive  it  possible  to  be 
venerable  without  being  diriy  ;  and  If  it  was  no  better  in  ihc 
days  of  our  earlier  monarchsi  wc  cannot  help  thinking  that 
their  frequent  residence  there,  %vas  no  proof  of  their  taste, 
Standing  as  it  does  on  a  rock,  there  can  be  no  excuse  for  the 
badness  of  the  pavement ;  unless  the  curators  of  its  iniemal 
economy  think  that,  where  nature  has  done  so  much,  it  is  unne* 
cessary  fur  them  to  do  any  thing;  but  it  is  said  that  what  is  seen 
every  day,  is  not  seen  at  all,  therefore  they  may  perhaps  have 
forgot  that  the  neighbouring  quarries  will  ailbrd  theiu  stone,  and 
that  the  forest  of  Sherwood  containsi  a  quantity  of  gravel  which 
might  be  laid  on  with  some  prospect  of  improvement. 

There  is  no  duubt  that  Man&field  is  justified  in  boasting  a  very 
early  antiquity  ;  but  the  tale  that  the  counts  of  Mansfield  in 
Germany  came  here  to  attend  at  tike  tournaments  of  king  Ar* 
fhur's  round  table,  and  gave  their  name  to  it,  is  a  mere  fable  * 

indeed 


KOTTlNGBA&fSllIIIE. 


375 


I 


I 


indeed  it  is  unnecesaary  to  trouble  our^lves  about  conjectures^ 
when  we  have  a  plain  anil  simple  solullon  of  the  deriratlon  of 
its  name  before  us, 

** North  from  Annesley  i»  the  town  of  Kirby  in  AshBeld,  in 
the  north  part  whereof  riseth  a  little  brooke  named  Man^  which 
descerideth  thence  uorthwaril  hy  the  town  of  Sutton  in  Ashfield, 
and  so  ihrough  the  town  of  MamfieUl  in  Sherwood  forest,  an  an- 
cient market  town,  and  hath  its  name  of  the  said  water,  as  I 
take  it/'* 

or  ix&  British  origin,  though  it  may  have  existed  in  those 
times,  we  know  nothing  ;  but  that  it  was  a  British^  and  after- 
wards a  Roman  station^  is  generally  believed  :  indeed  its  lat" 
/cr  occupancy  is  proved  by  ihedLscovery  of  man}/  Roman  coins 
of  Vespasian,  Constantine,  Marcus  Aurelius,  and  others  of  the 
lower  empire;  by  the  exploratory  camps,  which  are  numerous 
ill  its  vicinity ;  and  particularly  by  the  recent  discovery  of  a 
Homan  villa,  which  shall  be  noticed  more  at  large  in  it^  proper 
place. 

After  the  desertion  of  this  island  by  the  Roman  legions^  it 
seems  to  have  Houriahed  during  th«  Saxon  heptarchy »  being  a 
favourite,  though  only  temporary,  residence  of  the  Mercian 
kings  in  consequence  of  its  neighbouring  forest  then  w  ell  sup- 
plied with  beasts  of  chace. 

In  the  lime  of  Edward  the  confessor  it  was  royal  demesne, 
and  Wiis  continued  3s  such  by  William  the  conqueror,  and  by 
his  son  WiHiam  Riifus  whose  fondness  fur  forests  hastened  iiis 
death.  This  latter  monarch  gave  the  chinch  of  Mansfield,  and 
all  its  poi^essions,  to  the  cathedrai  of  St,  Mary  at  Lincoln.  In 
the  reign  of  Stephen,  the  manor  was  granted  to  Ranulph  de 
Gernon^  earl  of  Chester ^  but  that  line  ending  in  coheiresscfi, 
it  was  regranted  to  Hastings,  and  to  John  Cumyn  carl  of  Bu- 
chan.  This  was  indeed  in  the  reign  of  Henry  the  third,  pre- 
Tiotjs  to  which  it  had  ofien  been  a  favourite  resort  of  the  Nor* 
man  monarchs.     The  well  known  story,  of  king  Henry  the  se* 

2  A  4  cond 

•  Hvl.  Coll*  Ng.  36Z,  5S, 


zr6 


VoTTtVOUAMSniVLM^ 


cood  aodi  the  Miller  of  Mansiieldj  it  is  unnecessary  to  re|,»»| 
though  we  suspect  the  event,  if  it  ever  tlid  happen^  to  haff 
taken  place  at  a  much  later  period  ;  at  least  the  present  rh^m* 
ing  tale  preserved  by  Percy  in  his  Reliques,  is  of  a  much  later 
coroposiiion.  It  is  indeed  a  tale  so  replele  with  ancouth  ijide* 
cency,  wiihoat  even  the  slightest  spark  of  wit  to  recommend  tt» 
that  we  are  surprized  even  a  fondness  for  antiquity  could  hail 
induced  the  learned  bishop  to  insert  it  in  bis  CDllectioti^  parti* 
cularly  as  the  '*  Reliques"  are,  in  some  measure,  a  parlour  win* 
dow  book  :  for  on  the  same  priacipl««  this  collector  of  some  fu- 
ture age  might  be  justified  in  republishing  even  those  effusions 
of  salacious  wit  and  meretricious  de^icription  of  the  present  day* 
some  of  which  have  been  noticed  by  the  Society  for  the  Sup- 
prcssion  of  Vice»  whilst  others  under  the  name  of  ^'Confes- 
iions/*  "  Spirits  of' Books/'  and  *' Monks/'  are  still  sitfiicieiit 
to  pollute  the  shelves  of  every  circulating  library. 

The  inhabitants  of  Mansfield,  however^  still  consider  the  ho 
nourofthe  town  connected  wiili  the  antiquity  of  the  story  ;  and 
tradition  says  that  the  mill  and  house  now  inhabited^  or  lately 
m,  by  the  widow  Massey»  situated  on  the  left  hand  of  the  road 
passing  from  Mansfield  to  Sution,  were  built  ou  the  scite  of 
the  house  and  mill  where  the  king  was  entertained  ;  though 
nothing  remains  of  the  ancient  buildings.'*^  ^^| 

In  the  reign  of  Johii,r  the  inhabitants  in  order  to  promote  the 
publick  good  of  their  township,  paid  fifteen  marks  to  the  crown, 
for  right  of  common  in  Clipstone  park^  as  they  were  wont  to 
do  before  its  tnclosure;  and  by  paying  five  marks  to  Henry  the 
third,  they  obtained  a  charter  for  a  M'eekly  market  on  MotiJsy, 
and  from  the  name  monarch  obtained  the  privilege  of  having 
Housebote  %n^  Hay  bote  out  of  the  forest. 

In  the  reign  of  Henry  the  eighth  this  manor  was  granted  to 
the  earl  of  Surry  for  his  gallant  conduct  at  Floddenfitld;  hot 
the  king  afterwards  gave  him  some  other  lauds  in  exchange  for  it ; 

aAer 


*  lUrrod*!  Maii^^field, 


XOTTINOBAMSillRB. 


3?r 


I 


after  which  it  went  to  the  then  dukes  of  Newca&tie,  who  from 

hepce  took  the  title  of  Viscount  Mansfield* 

Lebnd  describing  it  in  the  reign  of  Henry  the  eighitu  says 
"  thence  to  Maunsfield,  a  praty  market  town  of  one  paroche,  by 
like  ground  (corn^  wood,  and  pasture,)  a  three  miles,  and  there 
rennith  m  the  tnidle  uf  it  a  rille^  and  in  the  bottome,  as  I  rode 
out, — west  a  four  miJea  of,  and  so  it  goetb  to  Civpston  a  three 
miles  lower,  and  so  to  Ruflord  water,'' 

Notwithstanding  our  aiiimsidversions  on  its  first  appearance  in 
the  eye  of  a  stranger,  we  must  acknowledge  that  on  a  nearer 
acquaintance  he  may  be  disposed  to  allow  that  it  contains  many 
good  houses,  and  thut  it  a  both  a  iluunshing  and  genteel  market 
town.  Should  bis  term  of  residence  include  the  Sabbath  day, 
he  will  see  that  it  contains  a  handsome  and  shewy  female  popti* 
lation,  and  that  it  has  many  Quakers  amongst  its  inhuhitants. 
Throsby  observes  that  there  are  some  very  old  houses,  but  that 
the  most  ancient  js  supposed  to  be  that  in  Church-streetj  now 
the  White  Hart  Innj  which  was  in  the  reign  of  Henry  the 
eighth,  the  residence  of  Lady  Cecily  Flogan.  Who  she  was  Is 
uncertain,  there  being  no  tradition,  nor  inscription  on  her 
monument  (nor  even  arms)  wliich  is  under  an  arch  in  the 
church.  In  her  will  she  is  called  jdain  Cecily  ;  b^it  in  an  ex- 
tract from  the  rolls  of  the  court  of  Augmentations  in  the  reign 
of  Edward  the  sixth,  *'  Dame  Cecily  Flogan,  widow,"  most 
likely  w^idow  of  a  knrght.  She  was  v^ery  pious  and  charitable, 
giving  much  to  the  church  to  pray  for  her  soul,  and  obliging 
certain  of  her  tenants  to  keep  a  stout  and  able  bulf^  and  boar, 
for  the  use  of  the  parish.  Her  house  has  its  ground  floor  built 
uf  stone,  but  the  upper  part  Is  woudframed,  though  with  some 
tnodern  alterations. 

At  the  east  end  of  tlie  town  there  is  a  good  modern  house 
built  in  170*3  by  Colonel  Lichfield,  and  called  R^tcHfle  gate  3 
he  had  been  m  the  duke  of  Kingston's  light  horse  during  tbo 
rebellion  of  1745,  but  returned  afterwards  t«  ••-••Ula  m  Mans- 
iield. 


378 


VOTTIKGfSAIlSHlRS. 


P 


The  church  is  a  good  build iug  with  respect  to  size  and  com- 
tiiodiousness,  and  of  the  later  Gothic  ;  it  is  dedicated  lo  St,  Pe- 
ter, ajul  is  in  length  from  eist  to  west,  nitiety-lhree  feetj  sixty- 
three  from  north  to  soutb^  and  has  a  middfe  and  two  side  aisles* 
It  was  pavtly  burnt  down  in  1304,  aton^  with  the  town  ;  but  ii^H 
now  re- edit]  cd  and  stili  in  good  preservation.  Its  body  is  sup^^a 
ported  by  handsome  pillars;  over  each  side  aisle  there  is  a 
spacious  gallery  ;  and  at  the  west  end,  there  is  a  rery  fine  toned 
orgafi  of  fourteen  stops  which  was  erected  in  1795,  at  an  ex* 
pence  of  two  hundred  guineas.  In  the  preceding  year,  the 
inhabitants  of  Mansfield,  paying  15/.  16^.  3d,  obtained  an  arcbi- 
episcopal  license  not  only  to  erect  this  organ,  but  also  to  build 
the  new  gallery  over  the  south  aisle,  to  remove  the  pulpit  to 
its  present  situation,  and  to  convert  a  private  pew  into  a  church* 
ing  one,  &.c. 

Tfie  pulpit  is  now  judiciously  placed  in  the  middle  aisle^  and 
is  of  handsome  mahogany,  with  a  support  of  four  neatly  turned 
pillars  of  the  same  material. 

In  the  interior  are  mutty  monumentji  of  stone,  and  monamen* 
lal  imcriptions,  wiUt  brass  plates  both  inscribed  and  armorial ; 
also  some  considerable  remains  of  painted  glass;  but  as  the^e 
are  principally  of  local  interest,  we  must  refer  to  ihe  dtscrip* 
tion  oft  a  local  historian.* 

Mere   are    many    respectable  Sectarians  ;    the    Presbyterian 
meeting  hijuse  is  a  neat  and  spacious  building,  and  well  alien 
ded,  and  possesses  an  organ  ;  a   neat   budding   has  also    been 
erected  b^  the  Catvinists;  and  here  are  also  comfortable  meel 
iJlg  houses  for  the  Quakers  and  Methodists. 

A  Free  Gnimmat  School  was  founded  here  by  queen  Elizabeth, 
with  two  scliolarshipsof  lOi*  each  at  Jesus  college  Canibrid 
This  was  endowed  by  charter ;  and   for  its  establishment  and 
support,  two  thndii  of  the   church  lands  go    to   the   vicar,  two 
thirds  of  the  remainder  to  the  head  master^  attd  the  remainder 

to 

*  Vtdc  Harrod*3  Almiiaey. 


fen 

'3 


KOTTINGUAMSIIIRE. 


379 


to  Ihe  usher.     The  school-house  was  erected  tn  1567  ;  butre* 
built  in  the  reign  of  Queeu  Anne. 

Here  is  u  Charity  School  for  3G  boys  who  are  cloathed  and 
educated  j*  and  here  are  also  four  Sunday  schools* 

Mansfiehl  market  is  now  beld  on  Thursday,  and  is  always 
Well  supplied.  The  fairs  are  on  the  5th  of  April ;  lUth  July  ; 
and  second  Thursday  in  October;  all  for  horse!»«  caulc,  and 
sheep  ;  but  the  two  former,  principally  for  cattle  and  h^igs,  have 
nol  been  estabiished  many  years,  and  being  only  dependent 
upon  cijramon  consent,  without  charters,  are  merely  called 
"Meetings;"  at  the  October  fair,  some  cheese  is  brought  for 
sale. 

There  are  here  several  very  considerable  Manu  farm  res  which 
have  much  improved  ihe  town  of  laie  years.  There  are  five 
cotton  milU  upon  a  very  extensive  scale;  one  of  which  hai 
2400  spindles,  with  carding  and  roving  machinery,  and  give* 
employment  to  IGO  individuals. 

Here  are  also  upwards  of  700  frames  employed  in  making 
stockings  and  gloves,  both  of  silk  at»d  cotton.  An  Iron  i\um- 
dery  possesses  an  extensive  trade,  where  iron  in  cast  in  tiny 
shape  or  size-  Nor  is  it  unlikely  that  iron  s.tone  might  be  found 
in  this  neighbourhood,  as  the  quarries  at  iht:  nortti  i»ide  of  the 
town  seeth  very  copiously  linj^ed  with  the  ochre  of  that  metah 

The  Mailing  and  Stone  trades  have  long  been  of  considerable 
value. 

Double  point  net,  worked  in  frames,  was  brought  to  its  present 
elegant  state  of  perfection  by  the  ingenuity  of  Mr,  John  Ro- 
gers of  this  place  in  1786* 

The 

4  Tliii  CWity  School  was  rt>tiii<!cd  in  ITOSf,  ittd  aupported  tlicu  by  a  iiab* 
KriptiifU  of  l^U  per  auijum.  In  17 il  it  Mr.  ikuiU»  leU  4l.  ^jrr  fiiinum  for 
jta»  bcoer  muiuteiiuitice,  And  also  mi  addilioii  oi  4L  per  iiJtiMiiu  to  [ml  oue 
poor  hoy  out,  a  parent  ice  to  %omc  imde. 

Ot1)cr  grjiiKft  to  lihe  poor*  and  Eur  ttiarilabk*  pvrpuu's*  ;irc  iniiny  and 
vttrioui;  tiutMi  [lumergiia  that  He  umvi  re(i:r  in  SiU,  Hn^rod'a  vcr^  diiluse  aod 
jpunect  Hhturj  of  tbe  place. 


$ao 


KOtTlKGIlAMSHIlS 


The  patent  circular  vaw  wa«  »Uo  invented  ber«  Uy  Jamil 
Murray,  a  workman  employed  by  a  Mr*  Brownj  an  iugemoui 
turner  and  mechanic*  By  means  of  tbii  inveaUoi)^  ten  timecttje 
quantity  of  work  can  be  pertorniedj  and  Ibal  in  a  much  neater 
manner  and  wiib  kss  labour  Uiau  by  the  common  saw. 

The  only  public  building  in  the  place  U  the  Moot  liall,  in 
which  the  county  meetings  are  often  held  on  account  of  the 
central  siiuailon  of  the  town*  It  istands  in  the  market  place« 
and  wan  built  by  lady  Oxford  in  the  year  1752^  principally  for 
the  purpose  of  accommodating  the  market  folks  with  shelter  f 
and  abo  to  supply  the  town  iijielf  with  an  apartment  suitable 
for  municipal  business^  and  the  gentry  with  a  good  assembl| 
room.  Thiii  apartment  is  48  feet  by  I7t  but  is  low  and  badlj 
proportioned;  nor  does  the  lower  part  aJFord  the  intended  fhel 
ter;  so  that  there  may  be  some  truth  in  ihe  local  story  of  he 
ladyship  coming  to  see  it  when  finished^  but  being  so  disgu 
as  never  even  to  look  at  it  afterwards. 

There  l.<  much  sociability  in  Mansfield.      A  Coffct  Room 
been  established  at  tht:  Swan  inn  by  subscription  of  the 
bilily^nd  gentry  of  the  vicinity,  and  of  the  principal  trad 
people  in  Ihe  town*      All  members  are  chosL^n  by  ballot; 
the  plan  extend:!  to  London  and  country  papt!rs»  maps*  char 
periodical  publication!**  Stc. 

The  Theaire  is  small,  but  well  contrived,  and  contains  both 
side  and  front  boxes. 

A  Bowling  Green  has  also  been  long  established  in  Leeming'^ 
Une  ;  fitty*two  yards  in  length  by  thirty-three.  It  in  supported 
by  subscription  ;  and  the  house  contains  a  billiard  room,  and 
also  an  assembly  roonv  where  thf  justices  often  meet  to  transact 
business. 

A  handsome  and  commodious  Void  Bath  also  affords  *bolh 
health  and  comfort  to  the  inhabitants.  Of  this,  IMr.  Harrod 
observes^  the  approach  from  Leemmg-lane  is  truly  pictures^que 
and  scarcely  so  much  variety  can  be  found  any  where  else  in 
a  walk  of  only  '3(K)  yard.s.     The  visitor  is   tirst  struck  with   a 

view 


KOTTIKGHAMSHTUE. 


581 


Tiew  of  two  regularly  built  cotton  mills,  before  each  of  which  ii 
a  sheet  of  water  reflecting  the  binltling:s,anH  surrounded  by  hillt 
between  which  runs  the  river  Mann.  Having  viewed  these,  on 
turning  a  Iklle  to  the  right,  the  church  steeple  appears  to  much 
advantage.  From  this  situation  afe  seen  excavated  rocks  which 
have  a  gofid  effect,  resembling  a  fortification.  Near  the  bath 
is  a  large  rock  from  which  issues  a  constant  stream  of  water, 
and  forms  the  supply  > 

In  this  neighhourhood  too  are  many  domestic  excavation**  in 
the  rocksj  where  the  n^odern  DroghdytcM  have  their  buis,  and 
even  their  gardens  formed  in  the  bosom  of  the  sterile  stone; 
and  ill  some  parts,  the  incautious  visitor  may  run  the  risk 
of  stepping  down  a  chimney  ! 

The  Manor  Cusioms  of  Mansfield  are  curious  in  many  instan* 
ces ;  and  it  is  recorded  in  the  "  Forest  Book>"  that  "  Tenaunts 
be  fre  of  bloile  and  lefully  may  marye  them  after  ther  willei 
as  wel  men  as  womeni — that  the  eyres  as  sone  as  they  bene 
born,  byen  of  full  age,^and  that  lands  arc  departabill  bctwtxt 
sonnes,  or  daughters  if  ther  be  no  sonne  :"  tliii  seems  a  rem- 
nant of  the  old  Saxon  custom  of  Gttvctkind, 

Mansfield  presents  several  instances  of  Biography  worth  re* 
cording.  Here  was  born  William  Mamficld,  who  is  supposed 
by  Fuller,  to  have  derived  his  name  from  that  circumstance. 
He  was  bred  a  Dominican,  and  was  much  esteemed  for  hts  gfreat 
proficiency  in  logics,  ethics  physics,  and  metaphysics^  He 
defended  Thomas  Aquinas  against  Henry  Gandavensis,  although 
both  these  great  Polemics  had  long  been  in  the  silent  gravel 
but  by  this  he  gained  great  celebrity.  "Bale  who  is  not  usually 
so  civil  in  his  expressions,  gaith  that  he  did  strew  branches  of 
palms  before  Christ's  asse;  which  if  so,  was  (I  assure  yon)  no 
bad  employment/' 

Humphrey  Ridley,  son  of  Thomas  Ridley  of  this  place,  he- 
came  a  student  of  Merton  College  in  1071,  at  the  age  of  18  • 
at  which  time,  or  soon  afler,  he  was  taken  into  the  service  of 
Dr*  Richard  Trevor,  fellow  of  that  college,  and   pbyed   the 

fiddle 


I 


5S4 


KOTT|]fOBAM8HIR8« 


dishonoured  remnants  of  mortality  in  church  yards^  be  cbote 
to  be  buried  in  Sherwood  forest  in  this  vicinity,  and  left  direc> 
tions  for  that  purpose,  in  a  mast  whimsical  will,  which  were 
complied  with.  The  spot  [$  on  the  left  of  the  road  to  Not- 
tingham. 

Of  the  various  seaU  in  the  immediate  neighbourhood  oC  lliis 
place,  we  may  notice, 

StiERwooD  MALt,  the  scEt  of  John  Need,  Esq.  *Ti»  an  ex- 
cellent hou^  on  the  forest^  about  one  mile  from  Man&lield.  lu 
situation  is  extremely  pleasant,  and  its  grounds  are  tastefully 
ornamented  with  thriving  plantations* 

Nettleworth  the  re.<>tctence  of  Edward  Greaves,  Esq.  ittaodi 
in  a  hamlet  of  Manslield  of  that  name.  The  old  mansion  his 
been  long  pulled  down,  but  the  modern  house  stands  on  its 
scite,  It  mm  Pinxton  parish  which  is  half  in  Derby  shirt  swi 
half  in  Nuttinghamshire,  standing  at  the  bottom  of  gentle  de* 
clivity  and  on  the  ferge  of  a  most  delightful  valley.  Einl>o« 
somed  thus  in  hilU,  its  retired  situation  is  rendered  even  more 
so  by  its  sarrouiuiing  woods;  the  scenery  is  elegantly  diversi- 
fied; and  the  home  grounds  most  agreeably  watered  by  twift 
rivulets  which  glide  through  the  valley  in  front,  and  unrtin] 
form  some  very  fine  piece*  of  ornamental  water.  The  hoi 
though  ancient,  is  substantia],  and  stands  in  the  north  psrt  of 
the  pleasure  grounds,  being  we  believe  in  Derbyshire,  is  is 
also  Pinxton  Hall  the  ancient  seal  of  the  family* 

Here  h  also  Brookhill  H*tL,  the  seat  of  the  Rev.  D'Ewcs 
Coke;  also  Park  Hall,  the  seat  of  Colonel  Hiill ;  and  fitnsr 
Hall,  a  good  hfjuse  on  the  edge  of  the  Forest,  with  elcg;»iifc; 
grounds  and  extensive  prospecti,  the  seat  of  T.  Walker,  E«ifj. 

The  ramble  from  Mansfield  into  the  Fore4t  towards  RuAtird 
and  Ullerton,  h  extremely  pleasing*  About  one  mile 
the  town,  a  gate  o(»ens upon  the  forest,  where  the  view  pn 
a  striking  contrast.  On  the  light  it  is  wild  and  waste,  swelling 
into  hills  covered  with  fern  and  heath;  whilsi  on  the  lefl  ther« 


two 


VOTTINGffAMSniEl. 


^%5 


]i  a  charmirtg  cultivated  valley.  Afler  proceeding  a  short  dis- 
tance wc  come  to 

capstone  Parkt  now  the  property  of  the  duke  of  Portland, 
and  containing  a  handsome  lodge,  but  small  and  modern^  be- 
longing to  that  nobleman*  This  park  is  near  eight  miles  in 
circumference,  and  was  once  famous  for  its  fine  oaka,  but  most 
of  these  were  cut  down  during  the  civil  wars  and  usurpation  ; 
much  of  it  is  now  viastei  but  there  is  still  some  old  planting. 

Near  to  it  is  the  village  of  Cupston  j  f*  the  water  of  Man 

descendeth  northward  from  the  town  of  Mansfield  through  tha 

■     forest  and  through  Clipstone  Park,  and  so  by  the  town  of  Clip* 

stone  where  was  an  ancient  house  of  the  princes  of  this  realm, 

>but  before  the  comjuest  by  the  king  of  Northumberland*"* 
King  John  frequently  resided  here,  both  whilst  earl  of  Mor- 
tein  and  after  his  accession  lo  the   crown,  and   several   dt^eds 
and  grants  are  dated  from  this  place,  since  which  it  has  retained 
the  name  of  king  John's  palace. 

A  Parliament  was  also  held  here  by  Edward  the  first  in  the 
year  12£K) ;  it  is  indeed  uncertain  whether  they  met  in  the 
palace,  or  under  an  ancient  oak  on  the  edge  of  the  pai  k>  to 
which  tradition  now  givea  the  name  of  the  Parliatncni  Oak*  Of 
this  nothing  now  remains  except  part  of  itslargt:  trunk,  scathed 
and  denuded,  with  one  solitary  branch  about  ten  feet  from  the 
ground,  which  annually  puts  forth  a  few  leaves. 

The  only  part  remaining  of  the  palace,  which  stands  in  a 
large  field  close  to  the  village,  seems  to  have  been  the  hall ; 
and  several  of  its  Gothic  windows  are  yet  entire.  Its  founda- 
tions have, formerly,  been  very  extensive,  whh  several  vaults, 
but  during  the  last  summer  great  part  of  these  were  dug  up  to 
be  employed  in  a  system  of  drainage  which  the  duke  of  Port* 
land  has  commenced  upon  his  pn^perty  here.  We  understood, 
however,  from  the  workmen,  that  his  Grace  hail  given  strict 
i>rders,  that  the  venerable  walls  of  this  once  royal  pile  should 
not  be  touched,     Even  in  its  present  dilapidated  state,  it  would 

Vol.  XIL  2  B  be 

•  Hsrl.  Celt.  363.  ^^. 


5Sff  «  OTTliro  R  A  VSHTEtt. 

be  picturesque  if  shaded  with  planting;  it  is  still,  notwithstand* 
ingi  interesting,  and  strongly  raises  the  idea  of  times  long  past, 
when  steel  clad  knights,  and  barons  hold,  and  haughty  priests,and 
smiling  courtiers,  and  strait  laced  dames,  and  blushing  damsels, 
and  the  whole  etcetera  of  feudal  pomp  and  high  minded  chi- 
▼alry  paced  its  now  deferred  halls,  where  the  bat  and  toad  as- 
sume the  empire  of  the  night,  and  wheie  the  sun  only  breaks 
in  upon  a  ^cenc  of  desolation. 

From  this  abode  of  ancient  departed  grandeur,  we  tarn  to 
the  right,  and  cro8««  a  wild  extent  of  the  forest  for  about  three 
miles,  to  a  scene  of  more  modem  desertion  ;  and  entering 
some  thick  and  shady  woods,  we  proceed  until  their  forest 
walks  brins:  us  to  tbe  OUerton  high  road,  where  a  park  gate 
leads  through  some  thick  overarching  elms  to 

RUFFORD  ABBEY, 

an  immense  edifice  of  not  yery  recent  date,  erected  upon, 
and  engrafted  into,  the  remains  of  the  ancient  monastic  build- 
ing. Its  situation  is  extremely  sequestered,  and  the  entrance 
front  is  so  completely  embowered  in  a  grore  of  elm  and  beech, 
as  to  preserve  much  of  the  original  character  of  the  building, 
though  it  has  been  so  much  altered  by  the  ancestora  of  the 
late  patriotic  Sir  George  Saville,  its  former  powessor. 

The  ancient  monastery,  or  Cistercian  abbey,  was  founded  here 
in  1148,  by  Gilbert  de  Gaunt  earl  of  Lincoln,  for  a  colony  of 
monks  whom  he  brought  from  Rivaulx  abbey  in  Yorkshire,  in 
honour  of  the  blessed  virgin  Mary. 

At  the  dissolution  it  was  found  to  contain  fifteen  of  this  holy 
brotherhood,  whose  revenues  amounted  to  254/. ;  after  which 
its  scite  and  the  greatest  part  of  the  church  lands  were  granted 
to  George  earl  of  Shrewsbury,  in  exchange  for  some  others  : 
from  whom,  by  the  marriage  of  his  grand  daughter  and  heiress 
to  Sir  George  Saville  of  Barrowby  in  Lincolnshire,  it  came 
to  that  family. 

Tboroton, 


J^rOTTlNQUAMSUIEE 


^^been  the  residence  of  king  James  the  first  and  his  sou  Charles, 
who  found  it  very  cominoijions  for  luinthig  in  bherwood  forest, 
and  were  hospitably  enteriainud  there.  He  adds>  there  was 
some  distance  tVom  the  house  towards  the  south,  a   pleasant 

I  large  pool,  through  which  the  river  Mann  had  its  connse^  but 
was  there  confintMl  to  its  channel  and  carried  along  tlie  top  of 
the  bank  or  dam,  and  the  place  of  the  pool  made  dry  ground, 
and  therefore  madi*  more  profitable,  pleasant,  and  hejilih»ul,  fhan 
btjfore,  though  some  still  thought  otherwise.  It  is  evident  too  that 
ft  succeeding  improvers  thought  otherwise,  for  ihe  river  bos  again 
been  allowed  to  overtlow  its  banks,  and  thus  to  form  a*<?cry 
pleasing  and  extensive  sheet  of  water,  winding  amongst  gentle 
swells  clumped  with  pictiiresc|ue  plantations^  and  adding  much 
to  the  beauty  of  the  grounds* 

In  the  time  of  Sir  George  Saville,  this  place  wos  in  all  lU 
splendour,  but  coming  by  an  heiress  to  the  Scarborough  family^, 
to  aj^ot/w^cr  branch  of  which  it  must  aUvay*  belong,  tt  is  now 
the  property  of  the  Hon.  nnd  Rev,  Ltimley  Saville,  ivho  resides 
at  Eilwinstow  in  the  vicinity,  and  has,  iht^refore,  left  Rafi'ord 
almost  in  an  unfurnished  slate,  wiih  the  exception  of  a  nume* 
rousand  valunblu  collection  uf  paintings. 

On  approaching  thti  en i ranee  front,  we  ascend  some  fvtcps 
over  an  area  whtch  surrounds  the  house,  and  gives  light  to  the 
otTices  in  the  under  ground  »lory,  then  enter  a  large  A<a// altered 
to  its  present  state  in  the  reign  of  queen  Elizabeth,  ;^nd  with  its 
lofty  ceiling,  high  raised  screen,  and  bricii  lIuor»  marking  the 
taste  of  that  period.  Here  are  some  very  ancient  portraits; 
two  curiiius  pieces  of  boys  and  girlii  surrounded  with  fruit  and 
flowers;  and  one  (deasing  landscape* 

The  Brown  Dinitig  Hoom  is  a  handsome  apartment,  but  un- 
furnished. It  coniainsj  however,  among  many  paintings  a 
very  fine  dead  Christ  by  candlelight,  moat  cxciuisitely  dune  ; 
tour  correspondent  picttires  of  arches  surmounted  with  saints, 
angels,  and  virgins,  apparently  copied  from  the  decorations  of 


2B  2 


5ome 


Mt  VOTTIH&HAlfSHiae. 

some  of  the  Italian  galleries ;  a  ^ery  curioua  landscape  iridi  • 
representation  of  an  Italian  wedding ;  a  town  on  fire*  by  moon- 
Ifght ;  and  a  Dutch  sea-piece. 

In  the  Bii/iard  Room  there  is  nothing  particularly  cunoat 
except  the  portrait  of  that  ugly  wretch  Buckhorse  af  whom  it 
has  been  said,  that  some  years  ago  he  was  well  known  for  bii 
readiness  to  engage  in  boxing  matches,  in  which  he  would  ofba 
conie  o(V conqueror,  by  suflVring  hi»  antagonirt  to  beat  him  tta* 
ill  he  bad  exhausted  all  his  strength^  after  whjcb  he  would  beat 
him  in  his  turn. 

The  Drawittg  Rootn  is  hang  with  handsome  tapestry,  hot  hu 
tiolhing  curious  except  two  elegant  drawings  of  a  ship's  hall 

The  Long  GaUery  h  l\4  feet  long,  and  36  broad,  and  cod 
tains  many  Tery  valuable  portraits,  besides  aome  other  paiotfagi- 
Siscra  and  Judith,  most  Aorri%  well  executed  !  Sir  ffWuim  Sa- 
tiilt,  in  I6d5.  Hit  Lady*  John  adoring  Christ*  Sir  Henry 
Sarilk  with  a  letter  addressed  "  Illustri  Viro,  Domino  Henrico 
S,  et  nostfo  amico  colendo  et  mcrcndo/'  A  Peer  in  his  ruff 
and  robes*  A  Madona.  Sir  George  SaviUe  the  firs^t  poss 
in  the  old  dress*  Gilbert  earl  of  Shrewsbury,  a  whole  length | 
with  his  face  fresh  coloured^  and  smnll  black  whiskers;  U 
costume  consists  of  a  black  cloak  over  a  grey  habrt,  srhort  tntnf 
hoscj  the  ribband  of  the  garter  hanging  round  his  neck,  and 
a  short  silver  hilted  sword.  George  earl  of  Shrewsbury,  in  a 
similar  atuiqtie  dress,  with  the  insignia  of  the  garter.  ChrimnM 
queen  of  Sweden  ;  very  masculine.  The  eurlqf  Ilattfaxt  with 
his  two  wives,  and  fir-jt  wife's  grandfather.  The  father  of  the 
earl  in  a  bull'  coat  and  iron  breastplate,  with  long  tank  hairj 
his  wife  and  four  daughters.  Sir  Henry  Sidney,  time  of  Elis 
beth  ;  a  three  cjuarter  piece,  with  a  stern  look,  bUek  whiskers 
and  beard.  Robert  carl  of  Esser^  Duke  of  NarthumberfcHd, 
apparently  inad,  or  melancholy,  and  presenting  a  huniiliatitig 
view  of  human  greatness,  -  Edward  the  sixths  a  three  qimrtef 
length  on  board.  Mrs,  Gertrude  Savllle.  A  female  he;id  look- 
ing out  of  a  window  with  a  wooden  shutter ;  in  this  the  efitsct 

of 


Hotting  H  A  HSH  IRE*  3S9 

nf  the  tight  is  most  admirably  done.  Dead  Game.  Mn*  Sa- 
ri7/ir.  Lad^  Cole.  A  curious  portrait  of  a  young  man  on  wood« 
wiih  the  following  iiiscriptioii  round  the  frames  "  Le  Sieur  H. 
!>•  pardtt  son  vie  naturelle  au  service  du  Prince, a  Saint  Quein- 
ten  avecque  honour  et  Taiiioor  du  Sotdats  et  du  mondej  et  de 
«on  age  vint  ant  et  dimi  1557  ;"  he  is  id  red  uniform  with  a 
■carf  and  spear. 

Ao  apartment  is  next  shewn  called  "  the  Prince  of  Waks*« 
bed  room/*  his  Royal  Highness  having  slept  here  some  years 
ago;  but  it  cunLains  nothing  worthy  notice  except  the  tapestry- 
In  a  Mnajt  room  on  this  floor  there  were  a  settee  and  some 
chairs,  worked  by  an  aunt  of  the  late  baroDet,  from  the  prints 
of  the  Harlot's  Progress^  extremely  well  copied* 

In  the  Attic  story,  there  are  an  immense  number  of  rooms, 
in  which  there  are  a  variety  of  paintings.  The  most  exquisite 
of  these  wliich,  however,  unfortunately  s^eera  quite  neglected, 
are,  a  lyrunkard,  remarkably  well  done,  though  raihtr  disgust- 
ing; a  Duitiu  i(f  morning  ;  a  Magdalen,  highly  impressive  ;  a 
Girl  reading  by  candle  light,  in  the  styleof  Schakken;  a  very 
line  head  ol'  a  jBoy  reading,  in  deep  study ;  Jedidiah  Buxton^  a 
most  exiiaordmary  head ;*  a  portrait  of  Anne  BuUen  on  wood, 

2  B  3  but 


»  Of  tbii  txtr&ordmBrj  character,  bom  in  Derbyshire  about  the  year 
1?(M),  lb  5hort  sccouuc  ban  been  given  in  the  dcJincatixto  of  that  county  ;  but 
%  (tw  addmonal  particulars  will  not  be  irrelcrant  in  tbii  pUcu.  He  bu 
been  IfiowQ  to  multiply  a  funi  of  59  places  of  figures,  n^o  itself^  and  hai 
^Ycii  converged  whiUi  performing  it*  Hh  wemorjr  «ii9  so  great,  that  h« 
<outd  leave  olT,  :ind  rtaumi?  the  operation  at  the  distant  period*  of  a  week,  or 
«veu  severttl  months.  He  said  thut  he  was  drutLk  once  wtlb  reckoiitti||r  bj 
Lis  iDCuiorj  from  tfic  17th  of  Maj  uutil  the  16th  ot  June,  and  tbeo  recover- 
ed after  sleeping  souadlj  seven  botirs.  The  tjue&tioD  which  occupied  bim  so 
intensely  was  the  reduction  of  a  cube  of  upwards  of  tfOO  miJlioni  of  itiilea 
into  baric  J  corns^  aud  tbea  mto  hairs  hrciidths  of  an  inch  in  length.  He 
Jrept  at)  accnunt  of  all  the  beer  be  had  drank  for  40  ye^n,  whicb  was  e4{uaj 
to  51 16  pints*  Of  theK  S150  were  drank  at  tkc  duke  of  Ktngstoiis  ;  at  bii 
«>WB  bou»e  Hn ' 

Havini 


590  VOTTIirORAMSntRB. 

bat  by  no  means  so  bandsome  as  Holbein  bas  painted  her  ia 
one  wbich  is  preserved  at  Losely  ill  Surrey ;  yet  as  this  one 
bears  a  great  resemblance  to  a  portrait  of  her  at  Hever  castle  ia 
Kent,  the  seat  of  her  family,  one  is  almost  led  to  suspect  that 
Henry's  taste  for  beauty  would  not  have  been  much  followed  at 
the  present  day. 

After  descending  another  long  range  of  staircases,  (of  which 
there  are  three  or  four  and  twenty  in  the  house)  we  pass  through 
the  Great  Drawing  Room  in  which  is  a  fine  portrait  of  the  late 
baronet,  with  a  map  before  him;  he  is  full  length,  but  sitting. 
In  this  apartment  also  are  three  views  of  Roche  abbey ;  and  a 
very  fine  piece  of  wild  boar  and  dogs,  by  Schneider. 

But  the  two  greatest  curiosities  amongst  the  paintings  in  this 
mansion  are  exquisUe  little  pieces,  which  the  housekeeper  has 
been  directed  to  keep  locked  up  in  one  of  her  presses  below. 
One  of  them  is  a  Dutch  painting  of  a  Fiddler  and  groupe,  the 
other  an  Old  woman  withfloxverSj  the  painter  we  believe  un- 
known, but  the  execution  done  in  the  most  exquisite  style  of 
high  finishing.  In  short  as  pictures,  they  may  almost  be  con- 
sidered as  invaluable,  and  we  could  not  help  expressing  our  as- 
tonishment, that  two  cabinet  bijoux  of  sucli  exquisite  taste 
should  be  thus  suffered  to  lie  unseen  amidst  table  cloths  and 
napkins. 

Though  this  mansion  is  uninhabited,  the  noble  owner  with  a 
religious  affection  to  the  memory  of  his  ancestors,  has  preserv- 
ed the  gardens  and  grounds  in  the  best  state  ;  indeed  every 
thing  is  so  elegant  both  within  and  without,  that  even  a  stranger 
cannot  help  feeling  regret  that  such  a  spot  should  be  in  a  great 
measure  unenjoyed  ! 

We  caimot  leave  this  place  without  noticing  the  plantations 
of  useful  timber  which  took  place  under  the  auspices  of  the 
late   Sir  George  Saville.     In  the  various  parts  of  the  forest 

around 

I  laving  been  taken  to  a  concert  in  London,  whilst  attending  upon  the 
Koyal  Sociei)',  \\n  declared  that  ihc  innumerable  sounds  produced  by  the 
insiiumcuis,  had  perplexed  hiui  bcvond  mcaiure  ! 


KOTTINOHAMSfltKl. 


391 


around  the  house,  there  are  no  kss  bhan  1090  acres   planted 

with  ojk  and  sl^U  ;  and  ihe  fnclosures  made  by  that  worthy 
biirunet,  since  Uitf  year  I770j  amount  to  the  extraordinary 
quantity  of  196(1  acres, 

Biisihorpe  h  a  small  village  about  three  milca  to  the  right  of 
Ruiiord.  Btfore  the  conquest  it  was  the  property  of  Ulph  the 
Saxon,  but  was  given  by  William  the  conqueror  to  Gilbert  de 
Gaunt,  being  at  that  time  Soke  to  RuUbrd.  From  him  it  came 
lo  the  faniity  ofTregoz;  then  to  Lowdham,  and  Foljambes, 
afterwards  to  the  Broughtons,  &.c.  At  one  time  it  was  in  the 
very  heart  of  the  wild  forest;  but  recent  inclosures  have  given 
it  an  airy  appearance^  and  its  liiaiple  inhabitants  seem  indus- 
trious, happy,  and  contented*  The  church  is  d indicated  to  St* 
Margaret,  and  though  small  is  very  neat  :  it  has  several  monu- 
ments, amongst  which  may  be  seen  that  of  Dr.  Chappel,  bishop 
of  Corke,  mentioned  under  the  head  of  Mansfield.  In  the 
humble  church  yard  is  the  following  humble  attempt  at  what 
we  suppose  the  parish  clerk  considered  poctrjf* 

"  Little  Marj'i  dead  and  gonc^ 

And  wu  a  loving 

And  A  prcctoui  wife  to  little  Jolui 

Fletcher." 


An  ancient  mansion,  or  hall  house,  stands  near  the  church,  and 
like  all  other  old  mansions  has  it*f  accompanying  tales.  It  i^ 
said  that  Charles  the  first  was  secreted  here  for  some  time  ;  hut 
ibLS  perhaps  has  as  little  truth  in  it,  as  the  other  tratlition  men- 
tioned by  Throsby,  of  a  large  hollow  rock  near  it  having  serv- 
ed the  humble  purpose  of  a  nocturnal  utensil  to  the  redoubt^ 
able  Robin  Hood  1 

H'tUow  is  another  small  village  in  the  vicinity,  with  a  poor 
looking  chapel  dedicated  to  St.  S within  ;  it  consists  principally 
of  poor  cottagers,  who  find  employment  in  the  numeroui  hop 
gardens  in  the  neighbourhood.  The  late  Sir  Francis  Molyneux, 
BarL  had  a  soiall  housti  here  with  very  good  gardens. 

S  B  4  Ollertov 


392 


K0TTrK6ffAMSHTR£. 


Ollertoh  i«  a  small  market  town  through  which  runs  the 
high  road  from  Newark  and  Southwell  to  Mansfield*  ai>d  it  has 
some  good  mns,  on  which  and  hs  hop  grounds  it  principally 
depends.  lu  market  is  on  Friday  ;  ^nd  ihere  is  a  hop  market 
every  Tuesday  in  September.  Its  Fairs  are  on  May  day  for 
cattle^  sheep,  and  pedlary*  and  the  27th  of  September  for 
hops* 

The  chapel,  though  erected  in  the  ancient  style,  is  a  mndern 
edifice,  and  is  kept  in  very  good  order ;  it  is  in  the  parish  of 
Edwinstow. 

Cofonel  Thomas  Markham,  son  of  Genrjie  Markham*  Eflq, 
of  this  place,  was  a  gentleman  of  great  loyalty  during  ibe  nvil 
wars,  and  his  courage  and  conduct  were  so  highly  ej^teemed 
that  the  command  of  a  regiment  was  ^iven  to  him.  But  tJi 
1643,  having  en j; aged  the  Pari ia men lury  force  =4  tiear  t^aint* 
boroughi  he  was  driven,  with  many  others,  into  the  Treiii*  snd 
unfortuniutfly  drowned,  Fiis  loss  was  not  only  a  source  of 
great  sorrow  to  his  own  relatives,  but  to  all  en^agcM  in  th 
royal  cause^  as  great  hopes  had  been  formed  from  his  niilits 
exertions. 

From  Ollerton,  the  route  -towards  Edwinstow  lies  through 
Sherwood  forest,  and  there  is  much  of  the  rural  wood  jicenery 
to  be  seen,  particularly  around  a  small  house  embosomed  m 
trees,  the  seat  of  Governor  MJInes.  Here  are  also  the 
dences  of  Dr.  Oakes,  r.nd  of         ■  Booth  by,  Esq. 

The  village  of  Edwinstow  is  extremely  rural ;  and  the  vene- 
rable church  has  a  lofty  spire  highly  ornamented  with  turrei 
looking  Gothic  niches. 

In  the  church  yard,  i^^the  following^^!?e/ira/cii/^jR/)€ 

"  Robert  Rncklcy  b^^dj?  here  itlaid  ; 
Iti  for  tiin)  thcie  huei  «re  oiftde. 
Thit  w«  ftJl  here  mny  lemember 
He  died  the  lirth  of  September 
Kobcri  Hocklcj  lOD  lie  be 
Ji  i»  age  i»  near  to  15. 

ins/' 
^  Edwinstowej 


irOTTtKGHAMSHlIlE. 


S9% 


Edwinstowe^  or  Edeiistow,  was  originally  a  **  heme**  of  tbe 
great  manor  of  Mansfield,  of  whkh  the  king  was  lord;  but 
the  inhabitajits  had  a  right  of  pastare  and  hay  in  Billahay  and 
in  Birklandt  tbe  tov^n  being  within  the  limits  of  the  forest 
H«;nry  the  fourth  granted  ihem  a  fair  for  two  days  in  every 
year;  and  they  had  also  a  license  to  pull  down  their  houses 
within  the  foie^it,  and  carrying  them  out  of  rt,  to  set  them  tip 
elsewhere  I  The  tair  now  lasts  only  one  day  ;  and  is  held  on 
the  24th  of  October  for  cattle,  horses,  but  principally  pigs, 
and  she  12 p. 

A  pleasant  route  across  the  forest  brings  the  tourist  back  to 
Manstleldj  from  whence  he  may  set  out  in  a  western  direction 
on  a  very  agreeable  mmble  towards  Hardwtck  halt^  already  de» 
scribed  under  the  head  of  IXrby shire,  as  the  maDsion  stands  in 
that  cgiiiity ;  but  as  parr  of  the  park  is  in  Noliingham,  and  the 
intervening  space  pecuUariy  romanticj  and  out  of  ihe  general 
line  of  travellings  we  shall  slightly  sketch  its  features.  The 
route,  however,  is  not  piissable  for  carriages,  nor  is  it  even 
convenient  for  the  equestrian,  as  great  part  ol  it  lies  in  path- 
ways through  incLosores.  The  best  line  of  road  to  see  and  en* 
joy  all  its  beauties,  is  to  proceed  on  the  Alfreton  road  about 
half  a  mile  from  Mansheldj  then  turning  up  Bangcroft^lane  to 
cross  some  inclosures  by  a  path  that  leads  to  a  forest  lane» 
where  turning  lo  the  right  tbe  rambler  come.**  to  Penny  Mont 
houses,  throtigh  a  tract  of  finely  diversitied  hill  and  dale,  and 
of  richly  cultivated  scenery  well  wooded*  The  lane  now  leads 
to  Newfound  mill,  standing  in  a  valley  watered  by  a  small 
stream  that  divides  the  two  countici*;  a  rugged  declivity  must 
now  be  descended,  when  crossing  the  rivulet,  and  rising  the 
opposite  hill,  a  narrow  lane  to  the  left  leads  him  through  em- 
bowering woods  to  Hardwick  hall. 

WhiUt  on  this  route,  a  short  detour  to  the  left  brings  the 
tourist  to  Sktgbjf  which  is  a  chapel  to  Mansfield,  and  is  worth 
visiting,  not  only  on  account  of  itstetired  situation^  but  also  for 
the  purpose  of  viewing  500ie  antujue  pieces  of  monumental 

sculpture. 


394 


yOTTITVG  HAMS  HIRE* 


•culphire,  one  of  fvhich  h  highly  iUnstrati^re  of  ancient  times, 
though  withoui  date,  being  two  rude  figures  of  a  man  and  wo» 
man  in  the  attitude  of  prayer,  the  man  evidently  ^Jaresier 
with  the  bugle  horn  hanging  at  his  side.  Kear  this  is  a  seal  of 
T.  Lindiey,  Esq. 

"  From  Mansfield  westward  is  the  town  of  Tershall  (now  Te- 
TcrshaH)  wherein  is  the  house  of  John  Molynetix,  Rsq.  whose 
grandfather  married  the  daughter  and  heire  of  Roger  Green* 
halghj  Esq.  owner  thereof,  whose  ancestor  long  before  bad  mar* 
ried  with  the  heir  of  Barry  a  gentleiuaa  of  uucient  name  and 
continuance  in  this  shire*"* 

This  manor  is  still  the  property  of  the  MoUneux  far 
and  the  place  is  particularly  worrh  notice  on  account  of  i 
dent  church  dedicated  to  St* Lawrence;  this  edifice*  in  the 
nai?e  and  chancel,  is  75  feet  in  length,  and  has  two  side  aisles j 
and  its  sides  are  supported  by  Saxon  and  Gothic  arches  on  cir^ 
cular  pillars,  whose  capitals  are  surrounded  by  a  few  rude  oma* 
ments.  There  can  be  no  doubt  oi  the  high  antiquity  of  thit 
church,  though  its  exterior  in  some  parts  seems  of  a  more  mo* 
dern  date ;  its  soiilh  door  is  particularly  curiousp  being  of  Sax* 
on  architecture,  and  in  feiy  good  preservation,  with  an  indent- 
ed moulding  surrounded  by  curious  and  various  devices  of 
birds,  fish,  &c.  though  unfortunately  beautified  with  a  super 
coat  of  the  church  warden's  cosmetic  lotion,  vulgarly  yclepM 

The  lower  is  of  a  much  older  date  than  the  body  of  the  edi* 
fice  in  general  ;  and  in  the  inside  there  are  some  antique  monu* 
menls  of  Molyneux,  Babinglon,Grcenh;iIgh,  &c.  Considerable 
attention  seems  to  have  been  paid  to  the  neatness  and  comfort 
of  the  interior;  in  the  nave  there  are  several  atchievementi 
hanging  i^p  against  the  pillars;  the  roof  is  painted  blue  and 
white  with  a  pleasing  tlfect;  the  whole  is  regularly  and  well 
pewcd  with  oak;  and  there  is  a  very  elegant  canopied^  and  high- 


*  Harl.  Col.  3:8. 


KOTTIKGHASfSalRI. 


395 


ly  ornamented  pew  for  Sir  Francis  Molyneux,  with  the  family 

Tauit  bebw. 

Part  of  the  olU  mansion  house  remains,  with  some  armorial 
bearings  ill  Btonewoik;  and  there  is  an  excellent  and  commo- 
dious rectory  house  with  good  gardens,  a  fine  bwn  in  front  em- 
bowered amidst  Ijigh  and  stately  trees,  and  possessing  a  fine 
view  into  Dt  rb V ?*hire-* 

Returning  from  Newfound  mill,  we  recross  the  stream  and 
procecfd  Btralght  on  by  a  road  which  leads  to  Plcasley,  a  smalt 
vilia^e  standing  partly  in  the  two  counties.  On  passing  the 
market  cross,  a  short  turn  to  the  left  for  about  half  a  mile 
brings  us  to  the  church,  when  turning  to  the  right  we  enter  a 
dell  whose 


bouadi 


Are  edgi  d  wtUi  wo«d,  o'er  liung  by  hoar^  diffs, 
Wljicrh  from  thcdaudt  bend  frowmng.     Down  a  rock. 
Above  tlie  lul'tjc'st  ^umniit  of  ttic  grove, 
A  tmubiiijg  tortefjt  wem-slhe  ahaggrd  itone  ; 
Tben  glearaing  Ihroogh  the  ifitcrval*  of  shade 
Attaina  tlie  valleyj  where  ikt  level  ttreaiu" 

conducts  us  towards  PUasUy  Forge  an  extensive  range  of  cot- 
ton works  sealed  on  the  rivulet  which  divides  the  shirtjs  of 
Notti  and  Derby,  In  this  spot,  su  little  known,  even  in  its 
immediate  neighbourhood,  we  meet  with  all  the  romantic  beau- 
ty aud  all  the  sublime  effect  of  Matlock  and  Dovedale, 
Here  arc  high  and  rugged  cliifs  well  wooded  on  their  summits, 
and  sweetly  feathered  to  the  very  edge  of  the  water;  ginlly 
swelling  knolls  tufted  with  firs  j  high,  abrupt,  and  overhanging 
rocks  clothed  with  verdure  und  resembling  dilapidated  ruins  j 
and  a  pleasing  contrast  from  a  view  of  the  mills,  tht:  mirror 
looking  appearance  of  the  water  here  dammed  into  a  small 
lake,  the  cheerlid  habitations  of  the  workpeople,  and  the  smil- 
ing industiy  around.  Passing  along  the  valley  we  come  to 
another  establishment  of  the  same  nature,  and  crossing  a  hand* 

some 
♦  Vide  further,  Gcats*.  M  ig.  Vol  LXXX*  p*  ISO. 


VOTTlNGUJlMStltRZ. 


some  bridge  which  unUes  the  two  counties^  ascend  ai  hilUl 
wbeo  at  its  summit  follow  a  path  leading  to  a  white  gate  on  the 
right,  which  leads  across  three  fields  and  to  a  clump  of  trees 
surrounding  a  small  bailding  erected  some  few  yeans  ago  by 
Major  Hayman  Rooke  to  preserve  a  i€$scUued  Rontan  pavtmsau^ 
mud  to  commemorate  the  scite  of  an  ancient 

Roman  Villa  discovered  by  that  gentleman, and  of  which  afl 
tlaborate  account  may  be  seen  in  the  eighth  vol.  of  the  Archmo- 
iogia.  This  indefatigable  antiquary  relates  that  having  seen 
some  small  stone  cubes  about  an  inch  square^  which  the  country 
people  called  *'  fairy  pavements/'  said  to  be  found  in  the  N4>rtk 
field,  where  many  s^tones  and  bricks  had  al  different  Itmesbeen 
taken  up  to  prepare  the  fields  for  cultivation^  and  to  repair  tbt 
fences ;  and  having  discovered  these  latter  to  be  Roman  trich,  he 
was  tempted  to  persevere  in  his  researches^  and  in  May  1786» 
set  three  men  to  work.  In  digging  about  a  foot  below  the  sur- 
face, they  came  to  some  walls,  and  by  following  these,  the 
major  M)on  dij*  cove  red  se^en  roomsj  wbkh  be  coo.^idered  bi  in- 
self  justified  in  considering  as  an  elegant  Viiia  Vrbana,  In  f<- 
inoving  the  t*nrLh  which  was  near  a  foot  deep  to  the  floor,  it 
was  p<;rcepiib!e  th'Jl  the  walls  of  most  of  ihe  rooms  bad  been 
stuccoed  and  paiuicd,  many  frag[]>ents  being  found  in  diBerent 
plates  on  the  floors,  which  must  have  fallen  from  the  upper 
part  of  ilie  walls.  The  rcmoining  lower  part  had  the  paintedi 
stucco  perfer t  in  many  places.  The  curoposition  was  near  two 
inches  tbtcki  made  chiefly  of  lime  and  sand  ;  on  this  was  laid 
a  very  thin  body  of  stucco,  painted  in  stripes  of  purple,  red,  J 

[yellow,  green,  and  indeed  in  all  the   various  colours*     In  the' 
centre  room  was  part  of  a   very  elegant  mosaic  pavement*  of 

I  fed,  yellow,  wbtte,  and  grey  taserm  about  the  sire  of  m  die. 
The  space  between  the  mosaic  pavement,  and  the  walls,  was 
paved   with  stone   cubes  about  an   inch  thick;  and   the  major 

I  thought  it  not  improbable  that  this  space  in^as  intended  for  the 

[three  beds  or  couches^  and  that  this  was  the  TViclmum  or  DiiK 

ling  room. 

Th« 


KOTTtVOHiitfSHrilSi 


397 


Th»  other  rooms  had  painted  walls,  bui  no  lesselated  pave^ 
cai^nts;  but  ashes,  and  utUer  appearances  of  there  having  becii 
fires,  were  vi.sible  towards  the  centre  of  these  apartmcnia. 

The  entrance  seemed  to  have  been  at  the  east  fronts  in  a 
narrow  inclosed  pottkus  with  painted  walls  and  a  tesselaied 
pavement ;  and  consisted  of  a  passage  fifty  four  feel  long,  yet 
anly  eight  in  width. 

The  Major  adds  in  a  note*  that  a  vUla  according  to  Columella^ 
consisted  of  three  put ts  ;  urbana  ;  rusiica ;  and  ftuciuaria  :  the 
first  of  which  was  that  portion  of  the  hou&e  »et  apart  for  th# 
mailer's  uie;  tbe  secotid  was  for  the  cattle^  aiul  servants  that 
tilled  the  land  and  were  employed  in  the  more  ordinary  ser- 
yjces  of  the  house;  and  the  last  consisted  only  of  repositoriet 
for  agricultural  produce.  He  thinks,  as  he  attempu  to  shew 
by  many  well  executed  pkns,  that  he  had  traced  the  remains 
of  all  those  parts ;  and  he  even  points  out^  and  that  with  great 
antit^uarian  Judgement,  the  hj/pocaittt  with  lluea  for  warming 
the  sittmg  rooms;  also  the  $tidatorium,  or  vapour  hath,  &c,; 
and  he  gives  a  very  accurate  description  and  delineation  of 
them.  In  a  little  room  also  were  some  bases  of  pillars^  but  he 
adds  ''I  um  more  inclined  to  think  they  were  bases  of  altars, 
dedicated  to  local  deities,  and  that  this  room  was  l\\e  penetraU 
or  chapel,  which  the  Romans  had  in  their  private  houites  for 
ihe  v^or&hip  of  their  household  gods.*' 

In  clearing  out  the  villai  many  slates  were  fotmd  w  iih  holes 
in  thera  ;  in  one  was  a  nail ;  these  must  have  covered  the  roof. 
The  outhouses,  stables,  and  other  appendages  of  the  farm,  must 
have  been  destroyed  long  ago,  owing  to  the  rock  being  so  near 
the  soil. 

Mr,  King  in  treating  of  this  discovery,  observes  that  **we 
may  fairly  conclude,  both  from  the  nature  of  the  foundation 
wall*,  and  from  the  situation  and  dimensions  of  the  principal 
apartments,  that  it  could  not  be>  in  point  either  of  elegance  or 
convenience,  much  superior  to  these  habitations  discovered  at 
the  ancient  Po7r\pda  In  Italy,  where  we  are  |ed  lo   w^onder  ai 

the 


39^ 


iroTTivGiiAitftatftt. 


ibe  same  ttmet  boUi  at  the  profusion  of  painted  vralls,  and  ab^ 
at  the  extreme  uncomfortableneiss,  and  unplea^antfirgfa  of  tke 
^wdlmg>»Mn  which  they  were  bestowed,"* 

Major  RcMike  adds  that  »onie  remains  of  two  sepulchres  were 
also  discovered  about  100  T^ards  south  east  of  tbe  Yilta;  ill 
which  were  found  many  fnLgmenU  o^  patera^  aad  pots  of  Ro- 
man ware,  with  several  articles  of  household  conyenieoce.f 

After  lamenting  the  too  common  deitrucUon  of  antif}utties, 
the  worthy  Major  con^atulated  biiii^ieir  that  John  Knigbtol' 
Lani^old,  Es^q.  on  whose  estate  this  discovery  ties,  bad  e3cpr«f»- 
ed  his  intention  of  erecting  a  building  over  it — that  building 
has  been  erected,  but  to  very  little  purpose,  for  no  visiting  it 
ill  September  1811,  the  editor  of  these  sheets  lound  the  d^wrs 
broken  open,  the  pavement  ruined,  and  the  floor  strened  with 
the  cubic  pieces,  the  walls  written  over  with  nbaldry,  and  its 
only  tenants  a  mare  and  her  foal*  who  had  there  taken  shcllcr 
from  the  noon  tide  heat ! 

A  pleasant  walk  ot  two  miles  now  brings  us  to 

Mansfield  Woodhou^u  a  very  extensive  village,  containing 
many  good  houses,  and  iong  the  residence  of  several  respecu- 
ble  families.  Sir  Robert  Plump  ton,  KnL  in  the  time  of  Henry 
tlie  sia^th,  died  possessed  ol  one  hov^te  in  this  manor  called 
"WoiiUuntUnd**  held  by  the  service  of  windtng  a  born«  and 
driving  or  frightening  the  wolves  in  llie  forest  of  Shenvood,  It 
ig  recorded  id  a  forest  book  written  on  parchment  in  liiSO^ 
«*Be  it  liod  in  mynd  tliat  the  town  of  Mansfield  Woodhoase 
was  burned  the  SutuitJay  next  afore  the  feast  of  Exaltation  of 
the  holy  crosse,  the  year  of  our  Lord  M.CCCIllI,  and  the  kirj 

aupi 


*  Vide  King's  Munltnentik,     Vol,  11.  p*  175. 

f-  Ur.  King,  who,  in   bis   **  MnnimeuUit''*  v\  nf  apimou  that  th^  grestcal 

number  of  our  hurtows  «re  Uritisli  j  says  (V«'l,  I,  p.  30J»)    **  l»  like  inatintf* 

ijj  the  Ilomtin  sepulchres  clifrcovercd  near  the  Tcrnnins  of  tl»«  »ncieot  HoiDau 

Titla,  near  AlniisflelfJ  W^cdliou^c^  there  was  nolhmg  like  tbe  n^pearanCfS  of 

the  V'\\m\  vt  iiitcrmcntf  of  the  Britons,  nor  lilt'  a  barrow.** 
9 


I 


ir  OTTt  IT  9  tl  A  af  S 11 1  R  c. 


S99 


fpull  with  the  belles  of  ihe  game,  for  the  niepull  was  afore  of 
fmhra  worke  ;  and  part  of  the  kyrk  wa^j  burned.'* 
Before  ihit;  accident  happened  the  church  had  three  nisi ef}« 
hut  now  hns  only  two.  It  is  98  feci  in  length  by  $2,  and  the 
ipire  steeple  is  lOS  feet  liigh*  In  the  steeple  iue  four  bells 
and  a  small  sainfs  hclU  which  ia  (.atholic  tiuies  wa.^  rung  when 
the  priest  came  to  ihat  part  of  the  Latin  service  which  is  trans- 
lated "holy  !  holy  1  Lord  God  of  Sabaoth  V*  in  order  that  those 
who  staid  at  home  niighl  join  with  the  congrej^ation  in  the  most 
iolenin  part  of  the  ufhce*  It  is  dedicated  to  St.  Edaiund  ;  aud 
IS  a  neat  edifice  and  kept  in  very  good  order. 

The  Ftast  or  wake  is  held  here  on  Sunday  after  the  tenth  of 
July  ;  and  an  Annual  Meeting  or  fair  has  lately  been  established 
on  the  first  Wednesday  after  Mansfield  cheete  fair.  The  house 
and  (and  of  the  late  Sir  William  Boothby,  Bartjs  now  the  pro* 
petty  of  Mrs,  Ramsden  (or  lately  so)  who  resided  there  ;  the 
house  was  built  by  the  Digby  family,  and  was  fornierly  their  re* 
sidencc. 

There  are  several  ancient  houses  in  the  town,  once  the  abodes 
i>f  opulence^  but  now  mostly  inhabited  by  various  poor  families. 
At  one  end  of  the  town,  (or  village  more  properly  speaking) 
there  is  a  small  eminence  called  Wlnn^hill ;  on  this  there  are 
iome  remains  of  a  Roman  exploratory  camp»  of  which  the 
double  ditch  and  vallum  are  still  plainly  to  be  seen  on  the  right 
hand  side  of  the  road  going  to  Warsop.** 

This  cheerful,  social  vdlage  is  not  more  than  half  an  hour's 
walk  from  Mansfield,  and  is  a  pleasant  excursion  after  the 
heaviest  rains,  for  the  foot  path  is  paved  with  flat  stones  nearly 
the  whole  of  the  way,  the  greater  part  of  which  is  on  a  solid 
rock  ;  and  the  scenery  on  each  side  is  extremely  tine.  The 
worthy  antiquary  of  whom  we  have  had  occasion  so  often  to 
speak.  Major  Hay  man  Rooke,  had  a  r<^sidencc  about  midway 
between  this  village  and  Mansfield.  He  was  F.  R.  and  A.  S^S. 
and  died  in  18U6  "after  a  long  period  of  useful  services  to  his 

cotiiitryt 
*  Vid«  further  Uarrod'i  Hittorjof  Mittifietd  Biid  iti  vjciaitj* 


k 


^,  as  a  ioldier,  aiitM|«aiy,  and  Ddcfaoldgiil.     Hb 
ilicaSiCMis  in  the  Afclisotogia  an  Terjr  extauiwm  in   V^h.  K 
9, 10.  and  11." 

Suiion  in  AMhJkU  to  the  weti  of  Maaifield^  on  tte  ]>erli^ 
iiiire  border^  b«  wc  believe,  iIk  iaaue  parisii  of  »lilcb  ite 
ftcetioos  and  sentstiieatal  £«t9raice  ^keme  was  Ticar.  b  ii  a 
bf  ge  ▼iltage,  with  a  church  dedicated  lo  St  Marjr*  erected  as 
a  0o«d  scale  with  respect  to  stze*  yet  actmlly  co  noeqital  to  the 
population  thai  Mveral  meeting  bottiet  have  bcoi  taili  m  a 
great  measure  to  supply  ihe  deficiency.  Here  k  a  cMmaideni* 
ble  p<^tery  of  red  wiire  of  a  coarse  kind«  for  garden  poCs,  &c« 
Anoogst  the  old  tenares  of  this  place^  we  lind  thai  Jordan  da 
Sutton,  holding  bb  lands  of  the  crown,  paid  foitrteeii  abtJlinga 
per  anntun  acknowledgement,  and  betides  did  homagaif  sail 
and  service  to  MansBeld  court  from  three  weeks  In  three  wedcs^ 
and  atteodaoce  upon  the  king^&  army  in  Wales,  with  oi 
and  horse  aiid  habergeon#  cap  of  iron,  launce  and  sword. 

Kirkby  in    A^hficid  Is  a   large  Tillage,  with   a  spacnoiia 
handsome  church  dedicated  to  Si*  Wilford,  containmg 
painted  glass,  but  no  monuments  of  importance. 

This  manor  came  from  the  Sititevilles  to  the  CaresidjdMi^ 
and  it  is  recorded  that  Sir  Cbarles  Caf  endish  began  lo 
himself  a  great  house  in  this  lordship  on  an  hilt  by  ibe 
side  near  Annesley  Woodlioiise»  where,  being  assault^  by  Sir 
John  Suinhope  and  bis  roan,  a^  he  was  viewing  the  woHk^  ha 
resolved  to  leave  ofl*  his  boaldmg,  because  some  blocid  had 
been  spill  in  the  quarrel,  which  was  then  very  hot  betweta 
these  two  families, 

«*  North  from  Griesley  is  Attnen!ey,  an  ancient  house  of  the 
Annesleys,  but  now  of  Henry  Chaworth,  E*q.  who  is  descend* 
ed  of  the  house  of  Annesley.  There  wait  a  custle  within  An* 
nesleVi  whereof  there  is  now  no  monument  to  be  found.  In 
the  west  pari  of  vvhich  lordship  was  a  little  abbey  of  ancieoH 
fouoilaiion  culled  Felley,  which  is  now  tlie  inheritance  ol  Sir 
Philip  Sterling/'* 

#  Hsf  1'  Cal*  see.  53* 


I 


.^' 


VOTTlVOHAMSniRB.  401 

The  village  is  small ;  and  the  church  is  much  defaced  though 
formerly  ornamented  with  painted  glass,  &c. 

Arwesiey  Halt  and  park  are  close  to  the  church ;  the  resi- 
dence of  John  Musters  Chaworth«  Esq.  Near  this  is  also  Whig* 
hay,  ^seat  belonging  to  another  branch  of  the  family. 

Feikjf  had  a  priory  dedicated  to  the  Blessed  Virgin  Mary. 
Nothing  now  remains  of  this  monastic  building,  except  some 
small  fragments  incorporated  in  a  farmer's  residence. 

Proceeding  from  Mansfield  on  the  forest  road  towards  Not- 
tingham, we  pass  through  some  wild  forest  scenery  with  inter- 
Tening  patches  of  cultivation. 

To  the  left  is  Blidworih  pleasantly  situated,  and  having  a  pic- 
turesque sylvan  vicinity.  In  the  early  part  of  the  last  century, 
the  foundation  of  the  church  was  so  much  weakened  by  digging  a 
Tault,  that  great  part  of  the  ancient  edifice  fell  down;  since  which 
its  body  has  been  rebuilt,  still  preserving  the  antique  tower  and 
chancel.  There  are  some  curious  old  sepulchral  stones  with 
the  emblems  of  various  trades ;  and  there  is  one  with  a  date  of 
1608,  and  an  inscription  of  the  same  period ;  but  its  last  occu- 
pant seems  to  have  it  only  at  second  hand,  as  the  ornaments 
and  devices  of  dogs  and  deer,  of  bows  and  arrows,  &c.  mark 
it  of  an  earlier  origin. 

On  the  forest  in  this  vicinity  there  is  a  curious  conical  rock 
sixteen  feet  in  diameter  at  the  base  ;  it  has  been  slightly  hol- 
lowed, and  is  supposed  to  have  been  used  as  an  altar  in  Druidi- 
cal  limes.  Keeping  again  along  the  Nottingham  road,  we 
come  to  the  Hut,  a  small  public  house  on  the  forest,  near  which 
we  turn  to  the  right  over  some  rude  fields  for 

NEWSTEAD  ABBEY, 

The  seat  of  the  Right  Hon.  I«ord  Byron,  and  pass  through 
what  was  once  the  park,  but  now  all  brought  into  cultiva- 
tion, and  divided  into  farms.  These  grounds  are  still  finely 
diversified  with  hill  and  dale,  but  bare  of  wootl,  and  presenting 
a  scene  rather  of  desolation  than  of  impcovemeiit. 

Vol.  XII.  2  C  Ni-wstead 


402 


mOTTlVQUAUfiniKE 


News  lead  abbey  was  founded  ai  a  pnory  of  Black  * 
about  1170,  by  Henry  the  second.  At  the  dissolution  its  rw* 
Tenii«js  were  estimated  at  229/. ;  and  it  wa^  granted  to  Sir  Jalm 
Byronj  at  that  time  Heutenant  of  Sherwood  forest,  Sirloliii 
immediately  fitted  up  part  of  the  edifice;  but  the  cliurcfi  was 
sufteredto  go  to  decay,  though  the  south  ahle  wasactuatty  in- 
corpomted  into  the  Uwelling  house^  and  now  contains  sofneof 
the   most  habitable  apartnieuta. 

Mr.  Young,  during  its  days  of  splendour^  deftcnbeh  it  a^  ^ituat* 
ed  in  a  vaie  iu  the  midst  of  an  extensive  park  tinely  planted; 
00  one  ijde  of  the  house,  a  very  large  winding  lake  wa»  llien 
making;  on  the  other  Rjde>  a  very  fine  lake  (still  in  extsteace) 
flowed  almost  up  to  the  house  :  the  banks  on  one  side  rofisialed 
of  fmc  woods  which  spread  over  the  edga  of  a  hiU  ciowo  to  Ite 
water ;  en  the  other  Ehore,  were  scattered  groves  and  a  park. 
On  the  banks^  says  Mr*  Young,  are  two  castles  wa&hed  by  tka 
water  of  the  lake ;  they  are  uncommon,  thongb  plct*jresque; 
but  it  seems  unfortunate  that  the  cannon  shotild  be  Wveiledat 
the  parlour  windows.  A  20  gun  ship,  with  several  yachts  ami 
boats  lying  at  anchor,  threw  an  air  of  most  pleasing  ebtefibt* 
ness  over  the  whole  scene.  The  riding  up  the  hill  leads  toi 
Gothic  building,  from  whence  the  view  of  the  lakes,  the  abbey 
and  its  fine  arch,  the  plantationai  and  the  park,  are  seen  at  onct, 
and  form  a  very  noble  landscape. 

Such  once  was  Newstead  Abbey;  but  some  utifortuoate ( 
mily  difl'crences  between  the  (ate  lord^  and  his  son  the  liill 
of  the  present  peer^  induced  him  to  sell  every  thing  belongingt^ 
the  mansion,  and  not  only  to  suiTer  every  part,  both  of  the  hooic 
and  grounds,  to  go  to  decay,  but  even  to  dilapidate  great  j 
of  it  until  be  was  stopped  by  an  injunction  in  chancery. 

The  front  of  the  abbey  church  has  a  most  noble  and  majf 
appearance*  being  built  in  the  form  of  tiie  west  end  of  a  cAih*' 
dral,  adorned  with  rich  carvings  and  lofty  pionacles* 

The  uastcllated  stables  and  offices  are  still  to  be  seen,  i 
Vmior  enters  into  a  sombte  deserted   court  yard  in  ih# 

^  4 


KOTTlSfOHAMSIlimi. 


403 


of  which  is  a  curioua  erection  of  red  stone  in  the  form  of  an 
antique  cross.  In  front  is  the  west  eml  of  the  ancient  church  ; 
also  the  venerable  front  of  the  manf^ion  wnh  its  towen>  and 
battlementSj  and  Gothic  windows,  anti  on  the  right  some  addi- 
tional buildings  in  the  castellated  style,  originally  intended 
lor  domestic  oflices,  but  now  in  a  greater  state  of  ruin  than  the 
older  parts  of  ttie  house,  yet  aasiuiilatin^  well  with  it,  particu- 
larly as  being  overshadowed  with  the  darkening  foliage  of  son^e 
lofty  elms. 

Ascending  some  steps,  a  heavy  grated  door  anil  porch  open 
into  the  Grtai  Hall  quite  in  the  aiUique  style;  its  only  orna- 
ments are  two  pictures  of  a  wolf-dog,  and  another  from  New- 
foundland^ favourites  of  his  lordship  ;  to  the  latter  indeed  bv 
once  owed  his  life* 

The  Link  Drawing  R<yom  contains  a  few  femlly  pictures 
still  interesting  from  their  locality.  In  this  apartment  there  is 
a  very  ancient  carved  wooden  chimney  piece  in  which  are  in- 
troduced foui  of  the  old  nionarchs  of  this  kingdom,  Henry  the 
eighth  and  two  of  his  concubines,  and  the  tamily  arms  of 
Byron  in  the  centre. 

The  Gallery  over  the  cloysters  is  very  antique  j  and  from  its 
windows  we  see  the  cloyster  court  with  a  im^m  in  the  centre 
used  as  a  i?lew  for  fish,  *Tis  impossible  to  contemplate  ihis 
tcenc  without  a  recurrence  to  past  time*;  in  fact  %vhen  we 
look  down  on  the  (Jolliic  arches,  or  up  to  the  hoary  battle- 
ments, midit  all  the  sombre  silence  that  reigns  arouml*  busy 
fancy  peoples  the  i»cene  with  ideal  beings,  and  the  shadows  of 
some  small  a^h  trees  in  the  area  may  readily  be  niistaken  by  an 
enthusiastic  imagiiiation  for  the  sliadt  of  the  passing  religious 
from  his  cell  to  the  altar. 

The  Great  Dining  Room  h  a  most  noble  apartment,  present- 
ing a  good  idea  of  ancient  manners,  but  now  dcsertt  d  and  forlorn. 

In  passing  towards  the    habitabl«  part  of  the  housej  it   was 
impossible  not  to  feel  something  like  an  awful  regret  in  pjw* 
the  chamber  of  the  late  Hon.  Mrs.  Byron,  ejtactly  in 

3C9 


W'h 


KOTTIKGHAMSniaE, 


fftate  as  when  she  breathed  her  last  within  U,  only  a  few  days 
preceding;  her  clolhesj  her  ornamenU^  were  displayed  wtf 
she  had  just  retired,  alas  !  retired  to  return  no  more  ! 

Our  aged  Cicaoni  with  great  good  will  expressed  a  desire  to 
shew  his  Lordship's  Siudy^  and  with  all  the  respectful  fanuJia- 
rity  (A  an  old  domestic  dependant  went  into  the  apartment,  to 
request  his  lord's  permission^  which  was  readily  and  politely 
grantedj  though  at  a  moment  when  a  recent  domestic  loss  muit 
have  rendered  it  an  unwelcome  request,  and  one  indeed  which 
the  writer  of  these  sheets  would  have  shunned,  had  it  not  been 
for  the  friendly  and  even  hospitable  attentions  of  the  yeoerahle 
old  man*  It  was  impossible  to  enter  thi^  swtiet  liule  apartniem 
without  noticing  sunie  of  ihe  very  unusual  ornaments  for  such 
a  place;  but  as  ihe  house  itself  is  literally  a  mansion  of  the 
dead,  for  the  monkish  cemetery  was  in  the  cloisters,  it  may 
account  for  the  noble  owner's  taste  in  decorating  it  with  the  re* 
lies  ol'  the  dead,  instead  of  the  more  tasiy  ornaments  of  bow 
pots  and  flower  vases.  The  other  ornaments  are  some  good 
classic  busts,  bookcases  with  a  select  collection,  and  a  Tcry 
curious  antique  crucifix. 

A  Smali  Drawing  Room  next  to  this  apartment  contains  some 
good  modern  paintings,  A  portrait  of  his  Lordship  as  a  Sailor 
boy  ;  With  rocks  and  beach  scenery.  Some  good  Sea  piecei. 
An  exquisite  Madona,  East  and  west  Views  of  Newstead, 
Dogs,  horses,  &c* 

We  now  come  to  a  long  range  of  deserted  apartments.  In 
one  called  King  Edward  the  tliirdU  Room,  on  account  of  ihst 
monarch  having  slept  there,  there  is  a  ? ery  ancient  rhimnev» 
which*  ttAgetber  with  the  whole  fitting  up  of  the  venerable 
aparimentt  seems  to  be  coeval  with  the  royal  visits  and  excites 
a  niotst  pleasing  enthusiasm  in  the  mind. 

^iext  to  this  h  the  Sounding  Gallery,  so  called  from  a  very 
remarkable  echo  which  it  posscMes. 

The  cloisters  exactly  resemble  those  of  Westminster  Abbey, 
anly  on  a  smaller  scale  ^  but  possessing,  if  possible,  a  more  vent* 

rBble 


MOTTlNOtfAMSfllRE, 


40S 


i 


I 


rahleappeamnce.  These  were  the  cloy  stersoftbe  ancient  abbey, 

and  many  of  its  aacient  tenants  now  lie  in  silent  repose  under 
their  flagged  pavement.There  is  soniethhig  particularly  sombre  in 
thecircumsitance  i>fihe  habitable  part  of  the  house  not  only  open- 
ing into  this  scene  of  departed  mortality,  buieven  having  it  in 
some  measure  as  a  thoroughfare.  These  cloy  sters  lead  into  an  an- 
cieiit  and  extensive  crypt  under  the  body  of  the  church,  but 
for  many  generations  used  as  cellars;  here  also  was  the  Singing 
Hoom  for  the  practice  of  the  choristers,  now  very  handsomely 
fitted  up  as  a  bath  ;  the  ancient  chapel  too«  long  used  by  the 
family  for  the  same  purpose,  is  still  entire  though  in  ruin^  and 
lis  ceiling  is  a  very  handsome  specimen  of  the  Gothic  style 
of  springing  arches.  This  chapel  was  also  used  as  a  cemetery, 
and  its  light  clustered  pillars  and  ancfent  carved  windows  add 
much  to  the  melancholy  expression  of  the  scene. 

An  vinQ\tnx' Gothic  Greenhouse t  with  an  antique  roof,  now 
opens  into  the  Garden  which  was  once  the  burying  ground  of 
the  church,  and  in  which  a  large  circular  vault  has  lately  been 
dug,  with  a  handsome  pedestal  of  white  marble,  on  one  side  of 
which  an  inscription  tells  the  passing  stranger  that  it  contains 
the  body  of  a  Newfoundland  dog  to  whom  his  lordship  once 
owed  his  life,  and  whom  his  gratitude  has  placed  here.  This 
garden  also  includes  ihe  dilapidated  part  of  ihe  church,  and  is 
altogether  %  very  interesting  spot. 

Near  to  this  is  Pappkivkk^  a  pleasantly  situated  village,  con- 
taining exten&ivt  cotton  mills  which  give  employment  to  a 
number  of  families.  The  church,  or  rather  cbopel,  waii  rebuilt 
in  the  Gothic  style  in  1797,  at  which  time  many  curious  frag- 
ments of  Saxon  sculpture  were  discovered. 

In  this  vicinity  there  is  a  curious  hollow  rock  in  the  side  of  a 
hill,  traditio.nally  called  *'  Kuhin  Hood's  stable/*  and  Mr, 
Rooke  considers  it  as  likely  lo  have  been  a  retreat  of  that  cha- 
racter, as  it  contains  several  passages  and  doorways  cut  in  th^ 
Gothic  style^  nut  of  the  solid  rock,  with  little  hollows  as  if  foi 
holding  fodder ;  or  perhaps    for   holding  holy  water,  if  this 

2  C  :1  pbct 


406 


14  0TT1V06AMSUIRE. 


place  like  the  cxcavatiorns  in  Nottingham  park,  bast^ver  befn 
applit;d  to  religious  purposes, 

Papplevvk  K  Hall,  the  scat  of  ihe  riglit  hon-  Frederick  Mon- 
tague, is  an  elegant  stone  etiitice,  built  in  1787,  and  finUhed 
with  great  taste  and  convcoicncy.  The  east  front  prM«fit«  llie 
principal  entrance,  which  in  into  a  Veitibuk  or  hall  %  feet  10 
inches  by  17  feet  G,  in  which  there  is  a  winding  staircase  lead- 
ing to  the  upper  apartments. 

The  Draxiiing  Room  is  a  hamlsomc,  elegantly  furnished,  and 
well  proporliLincd  apartment,  being  30  feet  by  S4,  On  the 
right  hand  i*  a  Library  very  neutly  furnished,  and  arranged » 
having  over  the  fire  place  a  very  fine  statuary  marble  bti»t  of 
the  late  Mnrcjuis  of  Rockingham,  A  Small  Stud^  adjoins  the 
library.  On  the  left  of  the  ball  is  the  Dining  Room,  a  spacious 
apartment,  25  by  22  feet,  and  adorned  with  several  l^mily  por- 
traits. A  cheerful  Brcafifasi  Parlour  adjoins  the  libmry  ;  mod 
the  Bt^d  Chamber5  and  Dressing  Rooms  are  spacious^  and  n«<at)y 
fitted  up  with  every  convenience.  The  situation  of  this  man- 
lion  has  been  very  judiciously  selected,  as  it  is  not  only  a  fine 
object  in  jtseU'»  but  also  possesses  plf^asing  and,  in  some  poimi 
of  view,  Ycry  extensive  prospects.  Nature  has  done  much  for 
the  grounds  in  giving  them  all  the  variety  of  undulating  swells; 
and  these  have  been  much  improved  by  the  hand  of  taste. 

Linhy  has  some  ancient  monuments  of  the  Sif^lleyg ;  tnd 
Hucknall  Torcard  may  he  noticed  as  a  considerable  village 
forming  a  long  street  with  the  church  at  one  end  of  it,  in  the 
chance]  of  which  there  is  a  mural  monument  to  the  memorY  of 
Ricliaid  Lord  Byroui  who,  together  with  his  seven  brolher\ 
bore  arms  in  the  royal  cause  during  the  civil  wars. 

Oxtoti  IS  situated  to  the  ea^t  of  the  Mansfield  road,  ancient' 
ly  and  locally  within  the  f<>resi,  yei  left  out  in  the  great  per- 
ambulation in  the  reign  of  Henry  the  second  ;  nor  did  the  in- 
habitanU  possess  any  right  of  common  until  the  reign  of  Jsd- 
ward  the  third,  when  they  put  in  a  claim,  when  it  was  de* 
creed  that  as  they  contributed  nothing  to  the  proviaioo  of  the 

fuf  esters* 


MOTTIKOHAMSHIRB. 


4<>7 


I 

I 
I 


I 


I 


foreiters»  as  the  king's  deer  did  not  common  within  the  bounds 
of  their  town,  ajid  as  the  people  had  tio  lands  within  the  limils 
of  the  forest,  so  they  could  have  no  right  of  common  j  hut  it 
%vas  at  length  allowed  them  on  paying  five  shillings  annual  rent. 
We  know  of  nothing  particalarly  curioas  at  the  present  day> 
only  that  the  botanist  may  be  gratified  with  the  sight  of  an  un- 
common species  of  fern  that  grows  upon  the  church  tower* 
Oxton  Hatiis  a  oeat  mansion,  with  a  projecting  centre^  and  a 
handsome  pediment.     It  belongs  to  the  family  of  Sherbrooke. 

Cmlverton  was  the  birth  place  of  Mr,  Lee,  the  inventor  of 
the  stocking  loom.  Throsby  in  this  place  mentions  that  la 
1793  there  were  two  dissenting  meeting  bouses,  "  one  of  which 
has  a  famous  pastor  John  Roe,  who  it  is  said  bid  defiance  to  the 
discipline  of  the  eMablisbed  church,  respecting  matrimony. 
Two  of  his  female  followers  have  sutfered  a  long  imprisonment 
in  Nottingham  juil  hi  consequence*  One  I  believe  was  his  wife 
in  his  own  way  1" 

Beskwood  was  once  a  royal  demesne  :  until  the  civil  warii  it 
had  plenty  of  deer,  but  has  mnce  been  inclosed  ;  and  the  an* 
cient  hatl  is  occupied  by  agricultural  tenants.  It  contained 
9700  acres^  and  it  had  not  been  all  thrown  into  cuUivatioii  un 
til  about  five  and  thirty  years  ago  when  a  Mr.  Barton  from  Nor- 
folk brought  a  wliok  colony  of  his  counly  labourers  with  him* 
and  broke  it  up  according  to  that  mode  of  husbandry. 

Arnold  is  a  newly  inclosed  lordship,  principally  belonging  to 
Mr,  Cope  who  resides  in  a  pleasant  modern  house  with  hand- 
some plantations,  un  the  verge  of  the  forest^  called  ShtrwQoi 
Lodge^  The  village  is  nearly  a  mile  in  length,  and  is  clean, 
comfortable^  and  even  rurah  The  stocking  manufdcture  is  itu 
staple;  here  are  also  cotton  and  worsted  raitis,  one  of  which, 
however,  was  so  large  that  a  tenant  cuulJ  not  be  found  for  it, 
and  it  is  suffered  to  go  to  decay. 

Hoilyhill  is  in  this  vicinity  ;  Major  Rooke  thinks  it  took  iti 
name  from  the  number  of  holly  trees  which  were  once  upon  it ; 

2  C  4  and 


Jioa 


yuTTIllOBAM»Mt1IB. 


and  here  be  traced  outihe  remains  of  a  Roman  eamp«417  yard& 
long  and  ^H)  in  bread ilu 

A  short  detour  now  brings  us  back  to  Noltingham;  but,  be- 
fore we  leave  ihe  county,  we  feel  it  a  pressing  duly  to  return 
our  bent  thanks  for  information  given,  and  facilities  ajforded^du* 
ring  our  researches* 

To  J,  Srretton,  Esq.  of  Lenton  Priory,  and  to  bU  brother 
Mr.  G.  Stretton  of  Nottingham^  we  are  indebted  for  much  mo* 
dern  information  respecting  that  town  and  neighbourhood^  as 
well  a5i  for  many  judicious  hints  for  reiearcb  in  other  parts. 

In  the  northern  parts  (if  the  county  we  owe  much  to  thtt 
Rev.  Archdeacon  Eyre,  and  to  the  venerable  Jonathan  Acklotn 
of  Wise  ton  Hall,  £54,;  and  (hougli  we  were  not  fortunate 
enough  to  find  any  of  the  nobility  at  home  at  the  larger  man- 
;<ion«,  yet  the  readiness  with  which  the  domestics  aflTorded  every 
information  and  facility  of  exumi nation  has  enabled  us,  we 
hope,  to  throw  some  novelty  into  the  various  descriptions. 

To  Messrs.  Taylor  and  Hidge^  l)ooksel]ers  at  Retford  and 
Ntnvark,  we  are  indebted  for  much  local  information. 

But  our  best  thanks  are  peculiarly  due  to  the  Rev.  John  Staun* 
ion»  D.  D.  of  Staunton  Hail>  not  only  for  many  hints  respecting 
that  lordships  but  also  for  some  very  valuable  drawings  of  bit 
venerable  mansion  for  the  use  of  the  work. 

To  the  rest  of  our  obliging  friends  we  will  leave  the  kind  re* 
collection  of  favours  conferred^  and  shall  now  bid  tbem^coHec^ 
lively,  farcwd  f 


END    DF    NOTTINGHAMSHIRE. 


AilST 


OF   TBE    PRfNCIf  At 

BOOKS,    MAPS,    AND    VIEWS, 

THAT  HAVE  BEEN  PUBLISHED  IN 

JUustraiion  of  the  Topography  and  Antiquities  of  tike 
COUNTY  OF  NORTHUMBERLAND. 


Northumberland,  and  of 
the  Riven  Tyne 
1  n  two  v'olumes. 


L  HE  Natural  History  and  Antiquiti 
so  much  of  Ihi;  county  of  Durham  as  lies  b*;twee 
and  Tweed  ;  commonly  called  North  Bishoprick. 
By  John  WaUis,  A,  M/'  4to.  London,  1767. 

**  A  View  of  Northumberland  with  an  excursion  to  the  Abbey  of 
Mailross  in  Scotlaml*  By  William  Hutchinson,  Anno  1776,"  2  Vols. 
4to.     Newcastle,   1778. 

'*  A  Historical  and  Descri|itive  View  of  the  county  of  Norlhum- 
berlandf  and  the  Town  and  County  of  Newcastle  npon  Tyne,  witfi 
Berwick  upon  Tweed,  Uc**  Printed  and  published  by  Mackensie 
and  Dent,  Newcastle,  2  Vols*  8vo.  1^.  6*.  boards,  1811. 

''Summa  Ddigenlia  assiduaque  industrial  studio  atqne  labore  hi 
quatuor  (omnium  terrarum,  oppidomm  et  tcnemenlorum)  hbri  inti* 
tnlati  SwflifMor  partes  Northnmbria:  de  nuvo  rcjwvati  sunt,  ac  curia 
f^ard4xrum  inaximo  robori  ctditi ;  per  Johannem  Lawsonum,  reginae 
ibidem  feodarum  quarto  die  Julii  anno  8alutis  nostras  1584/*  A 
manuscript  volume  bearine  the  above  title,  and  belonging  to  the 
library  of  the  Literary  and  Fhiiosophical  Society*  in  Newcastle,  also 
contains  a  MS.  transcript  of  the  differenl  records  in  ihe  Testa  de 
Nevill  respecting  this  county.  The  9.mituor  Partes  fyc,  is  chiefly 
extracted  from  the  Inquisition  es  post  Mortem. 

Dr.  Nicholson,  while  he   wus  archdeacon  of  Carlisle,  wrote  '* j4 

Description  q^'ihe  anciejit  Kingdom  of  Northumberhnd**  which  was 
announced*  in  1695,  as  ready  for  th»*  press;  but  then  remaining  in 
the  Dean  audChiipter's  Library  at  CaTlisle*  Sec  Nichol's  edition  of 
Fuller's  Worthier,  vol.  11,  p.  t204. 

'*  Camden's  Britannia,'*  by  R.  Gough,  F.  A,  Sc  R,  S.  S.  besides  an 
excellent  summary  of  ull  the  valuable  infoniialion  that  has  been  pub- 
lished respcctmg  this  county  in  general,  contains  Mr.  Horsley's  very 
accurate  survey  of  ihe  Roman  wall,  and  numerous  engravings  of 
Roman  Anttq^uities  discovered  in  lu  neighbourhood, 

**  Bloom* n  Britannia/*  printed  in  1673,  contains  a  Ittit  of  nil  the 
"Kobilityand  Gentry,  wiilch  are, or  lately  were,  related  nnlothc  coun- 
ty of  Northumberland,  with  theirseatsaud  title*  by  which  they  are  or 
have  been  known." 

Vol,  XIL  E  **  Magnat 


U5T   OP    0OOXS,    &C* 


**  Afagna  Sriiunnia,-*  4to.  printed  in  1724,  VoK  IfL  hesKlcs  a 
great  variety  of  other  kinds  of  informalion^  cuiitalns  an  acconni  of  alt 
the  townsi  baronies,  and  minorsi  of  the  caunty^  alphabetically  af* 
ringed. 

In  **  Pennant**  Northern  Totir**  are  manv  notices  concerning  thi» 
county.  He  visited  the  Fani  Ulunds,  aiiJ  de^cribej  several  q(  the 
birds  that  frequent  them* 

The  Rev.  George  UUchel^  a  learned  Bohemian,  and  author  of 
**  Ci.intcin|)btione§  MeiaphyMca.-,  ^Vc/*  and  **  Di*!seitatio  dr  Cirem. 
Eccles.  Anglic,  &c/*  wrote  **  A  Qttalogttc  qf  the  Mvrrral  Bcne^ 
factors  t^  the  Churches,  Poor,  and  Free  SvhtwU  in  TintUdc  ffard^** 
imb\\s\\f*i\  in  1713,  and  republifihen,  with  additions,  in  1780. 

"  Iht  Hordfr  History  of  England  and  Scotland.  By  the  Rev. 
Ceorge  Kidpath>  revised  and  corrected  by  his  brother  the  Rev.  Plii- 
Jip-Kidpaih.*'   4to.  London,  177 i5t 

"  Leg€sAfarchiaram,  or  Bordcrtaxos,'*  containing  several  ortgnii 
Articles  an<rrn^atif  5  belvvfrn  Eiielaud  and  Scotland*  By  Dr.  Nicho* 
son,  Bidiop  of  Carlisle,    iivo.  1747, 

•*  An  exact  Histonf  of  the  Batik  of  Fhdden  Field  in  Ferse  writ 
(enaltout  thetime  of '^uccn  Ethaheth.      In  which  arc  rdaUd  mm 
facts  not  to  he  found  in  the  English  HiUory.      PubtisJ>ed  from  a  ci 
rious  MS.   in  the   library  ot  John  Askew,   Esq.  of  Palinsburn,  Nof- 
tltumberland;  with  notei  by  Robert  Liimb,  vicar  of  Nnrhain."  ftvo. 
1773.     In  this  volume  is  also  contained  The  Bntuiie  nj  Brunitan,  or 
Fhdden  Field;  fuught  itt  thcyearc  of  our  Hcdtcmer  15  J 3,  dfc.     Co- 
pied Irom  an  edtiion  uf  The  Xfirrour  of  Magifftnttes  printed  in  1587. 
' '  •*  The  Minstrdii^  of  the  Scottish  Border,  by  Waiter  Scott,  Ekj,** 
5  vol<.  8vo.     Thh  work  contains  several  ancient  Historical  ballads  f«^^ 
spccting   battles  and  s^kirmishes  that   have   happened  in  tin*  i:ount]M^H 
Much  curious  infonnatiou  may  also  be  found  ainanie;  tiie  nott-^  to  tha^B 
Motk,  and  among  tJioi»c  to  the,  **  The  latf  qf  the  Last  Minstref*  and 
**  Marmion/* 

Several  of  these  songfi  and  ballads  may  also  be  found  in  "  Rils^t 

CoUectiouof  EngUsh  Songs,*'  3  voU.  8vo. 

•'  The  Hermit  of  H'^arkxvorth,  a  Northumbertand  Unliad,  in  three 
fits  or  cantos^  Uon^oix  1772,**  4lo,  written  by  Dr  Pert^,  late  bishop 
of  liruniiwe-  The  Nortliumbrian  ballads' are  also  to  be  found  io 
**  Dr,  Percy*^  HcUes  of  undent  English  Poetry,*'  3  vols*  Svo. 

The  State  Papers  of  SiK  Rstvn  Sadlrii,  Thurlow's  State  Pa^ 

pen,  *'  Lodge  s  /finstrtUions  of  British  Hist-rri/,**  and  Peck** 
**  Desiderata  Ctiriosti,^*  adord  much  useful  information  on  diU'enut 
brandies  of  Norlhuinbrian  HUtory. 

Besides  Mr.  H  or^  ley  *s  account  of  the  Eomj^}?  WAtLin  his"  Brittrfi' 
nin  fiomana,^  tliere  are  critical  and  descriptive  accounts  of  the 
ei\i  Uomiin  ban  ier^i  in  Britain  in  "  CIurdun's  Itinerunj  ;^^  Stukeiki 
**  Carausius  and  Iter  Borealc;^^  Smith's  Appendii  to  his  edttii 
qfBede*s  ITork^  :  BfiYNoLP's  "  Commentary  on  the  Iter  qf  Ant 


HUs: 


Al&o 


*•  railim 


I 


I 


*'  Fullum  Romanum  :  or  the  Histortj  and  AntiquiUes  of  tkc  Ro* 
man  ff^all,  cmnmonly  catkd  ihc  Fid's  WuHt  By  John  Warburtok, 
Esq,  Sum enset  Herald,  and  F.  A.  S.  4to,  London/'  1753.  10*,  Gflf, 
boards.  Bat  this  work  is  almost  entirely  copied  I rom  Hoi^ley's.  It 
has  a  map  of  the  wall,  and  many  eDgiavings. 

**  The  Hifsiorif  of  the  Roman  ffullt  Sfc,  describing  its  ancient  state, 
and  its  appca  rahcein  1802.  By  W .  H  u  tt  o  k,  F,  A  *  S .  '*  Tlii  s  has  a 
map  of  the  Walt,  and  plans  of  the  Stations, 

In  the  Philosophical  TRA>fSACTtoKs  are  accounls  of  Roman 
Altars  and  Inscripiiuns  found  at  CorUridgCt  Risingham,  Rochester^ 
and  other  piaces  in  Nortiiumberland,  andan  account  of  the  formation 
of  a  Mineral  iratcr  tit  Eglingham. 

In  the  Gentleman*s  Magazine  for  1753,  are  drawings  and  an 
account  of  two  Roman  inscriptions  found  at  Ilisinglmm,  and  descri lied 
by  Lionel  Charllon.  At  p.  842,  for  I7ti9,  is  ani^ccount  nf  an  ancient 
cros^,  di!tcovered  in  a  heap  ut  *tone$  near  Lilburne,  And  at  p.  825, 
ttono  I7K6,  are  engiaving;>  and  descriptions  of  the  two  Roman  inscrip' 
ttans  found  atTyneniouIh. 

The  Arch/eolocia  also  contain  certain  miscellaneous  notices  con- 
cerning this  county,  especial ly  concerning  the  Roman  silver  vessels 
found  at  Capheaton. 

Tlve  second  volume  of  the  Supplement  to  *♦  CoHIns'i  Peerage/' 
contains  an  exceUejit  account  of  the  House  nf  Percy,  And  in  the 
fourth  volume  of  \\v\i  Peerage  is  a  list  of  the  persons  in  this  county  re- 
turned to  be  mad 4-  Kui^tUs  of  the  intended  Ordt'r  of  the  Royal  Oak^ 
with  iUf^  annual  amount  of  their  incomes. 

'•  General  f^itw  of  the  Agriculture  ff  the  county  of  Northumber* 
land,  with  obserratioas  on  the  means  nf  its  improvement ;  dra-xn  up 
for  the  const  drrai ion  oj  the  hoard  of  Agricmturc  and  Internal  I m* 
provement,  by  J.  Bailey  and  G.  Culley/'  8vo» 

Marshall's  "  Rtvictv  nf  ihc  Agricultural  Reports  from  the  Nor* 
thcrn  counties  of  England,"  8vo. 

** Botanist's  Guide  through  the  Counties  (^Northumberland and 
Durham.  By  N.  J,  Winch,  F  L.  S.  JoH^f  fHoRNHiLL,  Richard 
Waugh.  VoL  I,  Newcastle  upon  Tvne,  1803*  Voh  IL  Uatcs- 
hcad;'  1307, 

"Treatise  on  a  Section  qf  the  Strata  commencing  near  Newcastle 
upon  Tyne.and  concluding  on  the  west  side  of  the  Mountain  of  Cross- 
fell,  with  remarks  on  minL-ral  veins  in  generali  \\m\  engraved  lij^urcs 
of  »ome  of  the  diitenmt  ?;f)ecie^  of  Production*,  Arc.  By  Wlstcarth 
FoRsTER,  Newcastle  upon  Tyne/*  8vo.  1809. 

"  Report,  Sec,  on  the  present  state  of  Tynemouth  Harbour,  with 
projected  im pro vemenl* ;  as  surveyed  bv  order  of  ihe  Conimiltee 
for  obtaining  a  better  Navigation/  By  U*  Dodd,  Engineer,"  8 vo, 
1796. 

The  Map  qf  Northumberland  in  "Speed's  Theatre  of  Great  Bri- 
tain,*' contains  a  plan  of  Newcastle^  described  by  W.  Matthew,  and 
a  plan  of  Berwick  upon. Tweed*     Also  Armi  of  Noblemen^  and  Bo- 

R  2  man 


S44 


LIST  OF  «OOKS«   Sec. 


.  man  Antiquilies  from  Sir   Robert  Cotton**  collection.      It 
qw^oll}  r*  |>riirtetl,  and  sold  siopily. 

'*  A  New  Map  of  Northuinbeiland,  shewing  Ihc  extent  and  sUui 
lion  of  th**  ^vefAl  wanis  and  j>:'fi*hes  wuli  thpir  Cliurches,  Cha|)el*i 
and  nature  of  bonefic^^-,  Maikel  Tovns,  Villages^  GenllcinmS 
St*ati»  CaHles,  Keltgious  lIouses«  Bouses  of  Kin{(s/  antirnl  Baronte^, 
Mjinnort*  Forrest^,  Parks,  Fitlils  of  Battli^s,  £ncaitipment&*  Col- 
hemis»  Lea<U^orks,  M<*diciual  WaU*rs,  Nature  of  StiiK.  Likewise 
the  courses  of  the  sovLTal  II o man  Ways,  Present  Roads,  River;, 
Rivulets ;  together  with  an  iiccwrate  draught  of  the  Boman  Ws 
the  Garrisons,  and  Stations  thereon  with  their  anlient  names  and  nen 
e>t  di^fovcred  fo>cription^;*'  aUo  •'350  of  the  arn>s  of  suoh  hon<^of 
ble  persons  as  have  born  titles  of  Dukes  and  Earls  *•  d  since  th^ 
Nofiijan  Comjuest."  Hy  Johk  Warburton,     No  date, 

**A,\fnp  of  the  Roman  ffali,  Sec,  By  G.  Smith/'  1746, 

**  A  Map  of  Noilhuml»crland  begun  by  the  late  Mr.  Jor^j  Hofj 
t-HY  F.  R.  S.  continued  by  the  Surveyor  that  heemployd  ;. 

f*ated  to  the  Right  Honourable  lluierh»  Earl  ol  Northuml  y 

John  Cay/*    Thi*  Index  to  it  vas  print*xl  at  Edinburgh  hy  iiaxwiV 
tun,  Barfltur,  and  NdlU  8vo.  173 J. 

**  A  Nine  Siteet  Map  of  Northumberliuid,  liy  Capt,  AilMstrokis 
with  a  Companion  to  it,  Prujtt'tl  by  W.  Prat,  London,'*  176y.  TliJ 
hai  been  reduced  to  one  Sheet, 

"  A  Pitm  tp^  the  Collieries  on  the  Riticrs  Tt/ne,  and  Wear>  alio 
Blylhe,   Bcdllnt^on,  and   Hartley,  with  the  Country  11  miles  round 

Ncwciisile.     ByJohn  Gitjson/*   17S8. 

**  A  plan  of  llie  Riven*  Tvne  and  Wear  from  Tynemouth  Barf 
Byvfli,  in  the  county  of  Northumberland,  and  from  Sunderland  i 
the  Junction  of  Chester  Dean,  in  the  county  of  Durham  iiiththe 
Loads  f  Collier  let,  Haggon  ff^ui/s^  and  Staithi^  thereon,  inclu<Ving  the 
towns  of  Newcaitle,  Shield'i,  Sunderland,  and  Chester  le  Street.  By 
W.  Ca$sok,  Viewer  of  Coal  Mines,  and  Land  Surveyor/*  180L 

**  A  Plan  of  the  tow  part  of  ihe  river  TtfW,  shewing  the  Bucks, 
Sands,  ice,  ByJoHM  Fryer,"  I77i.  AUo  ^^  A  Plan  rf  the  rtvtr 
Ttfftetfrom  the  Bar  to  the  head  of  South  Shield*,  By  John  FRVEa," 
17S7. 

*'  -/  pkn  of  the  Proponed  Can«/ between  Newcastle  and  Maryport, 
and  of  the  adjaccjit  country  by  WttUAM  Chapmak,  Engineer," 
1795,  two  Sheets.  Also  "  A  Plan  of  tU  propostd  Navigution^  from 
Newcastle  upon  Tyne  to  Haydon  Bridge*  b)  Willij^m  Chapma!^, 
Eiiginerrr,  I79ti/*  on  two  f»he*Ms.  Tliese  Plans  were  accompanied  by 
**  A  Report  on  the  measures  to  he  attcndtd  to  in  the  Surref/  of  a  fint 
of  Navigation  from  Neu^eastle  upon  Ttfne  to  the  Irish  C'h 

17fK> -HeiKirt  on  the  line  so  far  as  extemhfrom  N  > 

Haydon  Bridge,  with  observalian**  on   the  separate  advan^  r 

north  and  south  sides    of  the   River  Tvne,  1795. Sec  r 

mithr  tinvfrom  I/ai/don  Uridge  to  Afarf/part,  v\ih  r^  n 

line's  to  Penrith,  San^^held,  Ravensbank,  Bowntss,  ^^  i 

'lliird  and  Jifcit  Report,  cojitincd  to  the  advantages  anu   m*-^u»j.m-^*j 


LIST  or  BOOKS,  Stc, 


245 


I 


I 


of  carrying  the  Navigation  oo  iUt  Sau(h  »>ik  of  the  River  Ti/ntt  m 
the  d I tierent  courses  tliat  il  is  capable  of,  all  by  W,  Chapma??,  M, 
R.  I,  A.  8vu.  1795/'  We  also  hiid  by  the  same  Author  "  OhstrvO' 
tions  on  Mr,  SuUUJe'4  Report;''  iiiulii  '* Postscript  ta  Mr,Jessop*$ 
Report/* 

"A  ptan/'  oil  **  one  Sheet  of  the  first  part  of  llie  Canal  Navigation, 
from  the  East  to  the  Wf^t  Sea  by  way  of  Nevcaslk  and  Carli»W. 
Pmjected  and  surveyed  In*  R.  Dodd,  Oivil  Rnginrer,  with  the  con- 
tin  uatioji  ol  tire  Kivtr  Navii^ation  imo  the  North  Sea,  17y3.**  This 
Plan  was  also  accompanied  with  a  Report,  4  c-  '^  ''^  ititimates,  Uc. 
8v'o. 

"Beport  on  the  propowd  line  of  Navigation  bH\v«f#*a  Newcastle 
and  Mdr}'port.  By  VV*  Jessop,  Engineer.  Wuli  abstracts  of  the 
E^timateiof  this  hne,  and  aUo  of  tlial  from  Stella  to  Hexham,  By 
W.  JcssoF  and  VV.  CHAPAt an.  Engineers,"  Svo*  17D5. 

**  Report  on  liie  proposed  line  of  Navigation  from  Stella  to  Hex- 
ham, and  from  Hexham  Id  Haydon  Bridge,  on  the  south  side  of  the 
River  Tync.    By  Rout.  Whitwomth,  Ent^iueer/'8vo.  1797 

There  are  also  two  Reports  by  ion n  Sutcuffe,  Engineer:  the 
First  on  the  Line  froni  Stella  to  Hexhymi  on  the  south  si<le  of  the 
Tyne;  and  the  second  on  the  line  from  Hexham  to  Haydun  Bridge, 
and  from  Newcastle  to  Haydoo  Bridge,  on  the  North  side  of  the 
River,  with  Estimates,  &c. 

"  Observations  on  the  most  advantageous  lineofroNntryj  through 
which  a  canal  navigation  may  he  carried,  from  Newcastle  imon  lyne, 
or  North  Shields,  towards  Cumberland,  &c.  with  a  proposal  to  extend 
Collateral  Branches  by  the  Pont  and  Biy the  Rivers  to  Morpeth,  the 
port  of  Blyth,  &c.  and  through  the  middle  of  Northumberland  to  Ber- 
wick upon  Tweed.    By  Jona.  Thompson*"  8vo*  1795. 

A  Bill  for  making  and  maintaining  a  Navigable  canal,  from  or  near^ 
ly  from  the  town  of  Newcastle  upon  1\\ne,  to  or  nearly  to,  Haydon 
Bridge,  all  in  the  county  o(  Nuriliumberland.  37  Geo.  HI.  1797. 
Printed  wiili  blanks.  Besides  the  above  there  are  several  other  tracts 
of  an  inferior  kind  respecting  this  subject. 

NEWCASTLE  U  PON  T  YN  E  «'  Chomgraphia,  or  a  Snrveif 
qf  Nt^LCn^th  upon  Ttjiu.*,  i^c.Newc,  Printed  by  S,  B.  J  649.  S,  P.  D. 
dilectis  Burgensibns  ctprobis  bominibus  Novi  Castri  super  Ty nam, 
W.  G**'  4to.  34  pages  besides  title  page,  and  preface.  The  initials 
ttand  forWM.  Grey,  This  tract  was  reprinted  in  Harlehn  MisceL 
Voh  HI.  Ed.  1743,  and  YoL  XI.  Ed.  1810. 

**  England's  Grievance  discovered  in  relation  to  the  Coal  Trude ; 
with  t/te  Map  (\f  ike  river  of  Tync,  and  situation  of  the  ttfwn  and 
Corporation  of  Newcastle  t(p0n  Tynt\  h/  I^alfh  Gardner,  of 
Chnton  in  the  coui>ty  of  Norihuinlxriand,  Gent.  London,  ItiJS/* 
4to.  21 1  pages,  and  ornamented  wi^h  heads  of  feveral  of  the  knigs 
and  queens  of  England.  Reprinted  in  8vo.  by  D.  Akenhead  and 
Sonsuf  Newcastle  in  I7yti,  wiUi  ihe  map,  heads,  and  other  plates, 

**  The  History  of  Newcastle  upon  Ti/ne :  or  the  ancinit  and  present 
state  qf  that  Jrju/i.      By  the  laic  Uenrv  Bovrne,  M,  A.  Curate  of 

R  3  All- 


S46 


UST  0»   BOOKS,   $£C, 


AllHallowf  in  Newcastle.  Newc.  Print*  <l  by  J*  White,  1736/*  foK 
246  puges,  wild  an  Appendix.  The  last  pa  get!  leaf  was  reprinted,  in 
1757  ;  but  h  found  in  only  a  few  copies. 

•*  The  fluiory  and  AntiquitieB  of  (Ik  Town  and  Countif  qf  A'«»>^ 
castte  upon  T^nc,  inciudtni!;  an  account  of  the    Coal  Trade  of  thm 
Place,  and  EmMUslud  with  Engravtd  yicws  qf  the  public  BuiiUngMi 
4"c%     By  John  Brasd,  M.  A.     Fellow  iind  Secretary  of  theSociet]f 
of  Antiquaries,  London»  2  Vols.'*  4to.  1789. 

'*  Alt  Account  of  Newcastle  upon  Tyne  cpUamhedt  &c.  Newc» 
1787/*  12mo,  102  pages. 

**  The  Picture  of  Newcastle  upon  Tyne,  Spc.  Frlnled  by  Aketihead 
and  Sons,    JS07/' 8vo.    186  pagef.      A  AVty  If^ork  unJer  the  i 
titkj  and  by  th«  same  publishers,  appeared  in  1812, 

"  An  Impartial  History  of  the   Totvn  oftd  County  qf  Ketvcasii 
upon  Tync  and  its  Ficinity.     Newc.  I  SOL**  8vo*  612  pagesw     Thl^ 
work  was  wrllleti  by  the  Rev.  Mr,   Bjiitey,  and  publtshed  by  sub* 

scription* 

plan  of  Xexvcastle  **  described  by  William  M  atthew*  '  ;n**  Speed'i 
Map  of  Norlhiimberland.**  *'  A  plan  of  Newcastle  on  two  Sheets  with 
vicMisof  'Itipuhiick  Ifitikloigs,  by  Jajies  Cor  bridge,  1723.'* 

"Bourne^s  History,"  contains  aonciheet  plan  of  this  Town. 

A  beautiful  and  correct  Plan  of  Newcastle  and  Gateshead,  was 
wade  in  1770  by  Charles  Hutton',  mathcmulician,  ^nd  cngravcdj 
by  J,  Ellis.     "Brand's  Newcastle**  abo  coniafnsa  pton  of  Newcastl^ 
and  Gateshead  on  one  sheet,  with  a  fac  slniile  of  William  Maltbew'f 
plan  annexed  lo  Sp»!ed*s  Map. 

Throsby's  Ducatiis  Leodcnsis,  p,  497,  mentions  a  Prospect  of  this 
town  by  VVm.  Lodge,  who  was  born  in  1649,  and  died  in  1689.  A 
view  of  Newcastle  Bridge  dedic^led  to  Cuthbert  Fenwvck>  Mayor 
in  1739i  engraved  by  J.  Hilbert,  refers  to  Bourn's  History^p.  129*  A 
Project  of  Nenrasile,  from  Gatefhead  Church  Sleej)le  by  S.Bijck,  in 
1724.  A  large  oblong  north  west  view  of  ^ ev,'ca&i\e.  By  S.  and 
N.  Buck  in  1745, 

A  Fieiv  of  St.  Nicholas  Church   in  Newcastle  upon  Tyne^  dedi* 
cated  to  Bishop  Crew,  in  1713.     Twenty-two  inches  by  si'xteen.    4^ 
North  vieiv  {if' St.  Nichohjt  CAurc/i;  R.  Johnson  del,      G.  Nesb_ 
Stulp.  fourt<^cn  inches  by  twelve,  very  iinety  engraved  upon  Wootl,.^ 

**  History  (^Berwick  upon  Tweed,  including  a  sftori  Accauttt 
ofthef^'illa^tsofTwccdmouthandSpittaUdfc.  By  )ohh  Fvllmh, 
M.  D,  Berwick.  Edinburgh,  1799,**  8vo.  60I  pages,  Appendix  SO 
pages. 

There  is  much  curious  unpublished  information  respecting  Berwick 
among  the  records  of  thtf  Tower  and  the  Exchequer  ;  in  the  Boilteiin 
J^ibrary  ;  and  in  the  Advocate's  Library,  in  Ediohurgh*  A  large  ob- 
long view  of  Birrwick,  uaspublibhed  byS.  andN.  Buck  in  1745;  and 
a  pbn  of  it  inSpeed^s  Map. 

'I'he  Editor  of  the  account  of  Norlhiimberland  also  recciv 


UST  OP  BOOKS,   &C.  S47 

usistance  from  MS.  Notes  on  '' Hutchinson* s  Fiew^"  by  R,« 
Spearman,  Esq.  of  Eachwick-Hall :  and  was  favoured  with  com- 
munications or  the  loan  of  papers  and  records  from  the  late  AT.  He- 
ron, Esq.  of  Newcastle;  from  Mr.  John  Adamson  and  Mr.  ./oAn 
Murray  of  the  same  place;  from  Mr.  John  Chaloner of  Morpeth  ; 
from  Dr,  Patterson  of  Berwick ;  and  from  various  other  Gentle- 
men, to  all  of  whom  his  grateful  ai:kQowlcc^;ement8  are  due. 


K  4  INDEX 


INDEX 


TO 


rHE  COUNTY  OF  NORTHUMBERLAND. 

^  ^  *    TUe  Makket  Tomtms  ofe  printed  in  Sntll  Capitals; 
the  Viltagii  in  Italics. 


ABACOT,  or  cup  of  State,  167. 
Abbiu^  Alfiwicki  198. 
,  Carlmm^  3^4. 

,  Hulnc,  199. 

« — ~-~,  NewmiDster^  IE5. 

Ad  Gehln,  218. 

Ad  Murum,   115* 

JE^^icu,  &  Romiin  staiion^  liO. 

A gri coin's  forts,  2. 

Agriculture  of  North Qmberlaod^  S7. 

Akeniide,  Dr,  36. 

AM^oodj  family  of.  111,   IST, 

Ailonc,  a  Komaii  station ,  ]0T. 

All  Samt's  Church,    Newcostlei  er- 

rata,  .58- 
A I  no,  river,  36. 
Atntmoutkf  port,  and  ruined  churcli, 

194. 
Almwich,  obbev,  198. 

,  cMtle  of,  195. 

-^ ,  town,  191. 

*,  friar  Martin  of,  50. 
Ancrofi,  tSl. 

Aader&ou  FJacc,  Newcastle,  68. 
St.  Andrew**  Church,  Newcastle,  57. 
St.  Anne'*  ChopeJ^  Newcaille,  59* 
St.  Am  hunt's,  deplli  ii(  a  coal  mine 

at,   tB. 
AiieediJte    cuiicerniit^    Edward     tUe 

first,  76. 
— St.    Nicholas 

church  iteepte  ia  Newcii9lle«  56« 


Ataftroblj  rooms  m  NeweaiUc,  S^, 
AniKCft,  pla4:et  of  holding   far  Nor* 
Itiuniberland,  44. 

New- 


castle, 64. 

Augustine  Friarf,  Newcastle,  107. 

Austin  canons  at  Hexham,  16f . 

Antiquities,  niiscellaneotts,  Horom 
pottery,  &c.  at  Newcastle,  37;  ring 
and  corns,  39  ;  orn  at  Beriwcll,  73  ; 
teeth,  pottery,  and  bones  at  Wills- 
end,  79  \  lostniments  of  flint« 
kistracns,  amt,  coins,  &c.  107 ; 
cairns,  aec.  139 ;  urns  and  bonet« 
145  J  kistracnf,  149 ;  sacred  ves- 
sels, 17«,  175,  178;  kistraeni^ 
spcurheads  of  brass,  177,  178  ; 
spenrheads,  nnd  celts,  195;  uroi 
and  a  celt,  fl4  ;  triangular  earthen 
vessels,  StO ;  curious  armour  of  coId| 

Ayden  Castle,  \f^^ 
B 

Babbinglon,  family  i»i,  76,  179. 

Back  worth.  06. 

Bacon,  John,   Esq.  \i\%  descent,  ht- 

117. 
Baljol,  Edward,  does  homage^  49. 
-,  John,  ^o.  40. 


BAMBtRon,    castle  and 

errata,  *U3,  «07. 
Bntes'  Island,  95. 
Bates,  fnmily  of«  103. 


lie, 


B«ib>. 


INDEK, 


I 


I 


I 


Bithi,  at  Newcafdcj  61* 

,  Koman,    108,  1!2S«  Itfi,  150, 

171. 
Battles,  nt  BranTtiM  or  Floddcn,  220. 

— -^ ^,  Hclcnfchb,  135. 

-^,  JHenham*  ld7. 

— — --^  UtLcrbouriie,  146* 
— — -       J  Nt'wbumc,   104* 

,  Yevering,  219, 

Bsrrmcks,  TjroemouUij  87. 

'■,  Berwick,  «35. 
Burrows,  i*it,  14i>,  150,  179,  208. 
Bavingtofi,  Li  tile,  177* 
BtanUy,  216. 
Beaufrunr,  153. 

Beatinioiit,  Mr.  a  ereafc  coal  owner»  £?. 
Befrfii r,  iron  works,  S5,  99, 

— ,  seur,  97. 

Beckei'M,  TlioniBi  a*  cbapel,    in  New* 

cattle,  57  • 
BedJiugtonshirc,  ^c.  98. 
BelporDj  errata,  t07. 
Bellasi»e,  99. 
BeilinohaMj    139. 
Belt  Liter  casile,  llS. 
Bells  family  of,  99. 
Bttiity,  CA!»tle,  ermta,  160. 
Beluiigharo  Chapei,  lt6. 
BcNton  loH*,  77  j  Litile,  78, 
Btnwellt  a  Roman  UatioQ,  72,-74. 
1^—  -t  coal  mine  on  fire  at,  74» 

,  lower,  6cc,  ib. 

Bercntu  Chapel,  14tk 
Beroicia,  kingtloiu  of,  8, — 55. 
BanwrctL  upunTwk:h».  tSt, 
Bewicke  Hill»  camp  on,  215. 

-,  familjof,  106. 

Bibie,  an  aiicteiit  MS,  67. 
Biddleiione,  f  11. 
Biggc,  family  of,  78.  175,  189, 
Bi»bap  of  boys,  76. 
BiitM)ps  i>f  Heibaia,  160. 

^ ^-  of  Lindisfarne,  228. 

Btdck  book  of  Hei^ham  cburcb,  165. 
Bl2u:k  caaoni,  at  Ovmgbacn.  175. 

^  Carhatw,  424, 

-TvneraODlbi  81, 

Black  friars,  in  Newcastle,  49. 

Blackgate,  do.  43. 

BIftckett,  family  of,  6S,  166, 175, 177, 

181. 
Btdgdon,  99. 
BtuHchfUud  \hbey,  168. 
Blcitkinsop  Caitle,  113. 

«- -,  Umiiy  of,  lt«,  lis. 

Blytht,  96. 

Boat,  ^L  Catbbcrf  s  stone,  226. 


Balam,  179, 

Bolbeck  baronjf,  16i» 

BoUon,  Hofipital  at,  21 1* 

BiHhai  Casik,  186. 

BorcoTictii,  a  Roman  stall  on,  125* 

Border  history,  10,  service,  14. 

B  irdcrcrs,  accouotuf,  239* 

Bowcnt,  river.  Si, 

BraudJmg.  laroily  of,  77,  199, 

Branksi  an  engine  to  puujsh  »co)ds,  64» 

Braaxton,  batile  of,  ttO. 

BremeaJum,    a  Roman    stipendiary 

city,  1,  149. 
BremJsb,  nvcr,  35. 
Bridge,  Newcusik^,  47* 

,nt  Bjfwcll,  175. 

-,  ni  Berwick,  S37. 

,  BoiiiaD,  37,  133,  144,  171- 

Brigbam,  a  coriTenttoa  held  at,  125. 

Bnnkburn  priory,  190. 

Broomridge,  cump  at,  215. 

Browne  Cupahi lily,  181. 

Brown,  Dr.  Jobn^  accouttt  of,  209* 

Bruimnburch,  190,  215 1 

Buvy  Gap,  1Q9. 

Burroden,  96' 

Ihi^er^  76. 

Bywtlk  lU. 

c. 

Caervomn,  a  Komaji  station,  1 17. 
Cairnt,  107,  139,  149,  U16,  218. 
Ca Haley,  213. 
Cal lender,   £art    of,    besieges   New* 

cfutle,  40. 
Canali,  3^>,'-3i. 
Cam,i(te,  1 15. 
Cmmps,  circolar,  179,  207,  f09,  2 1 4, 

218,  219. 

■,  semicircular,  215, 
,   square,    100,    113,   114*129, 

138,  207,  215,  2!ir. 
Capability  Browne,  IBl. 
Capbefttoiif  178. 
Cnrhnm,  S24. 

Curt  ion.  Dr.  George,  errata,  225. 
Ciif nielvtes  jn  Newtnatlc,  51, 
CarneliajiS,  35, 

Ciirrowbrugh,  a  Roman  station,  128* 
Ciirtington  castle,  2l*y, 
Ciutte  Karik»,  nt  flaltwlnstle,  lt?» 
— —  11  ill,  near  Lumbley^  1 1 K 

Cu/laley,  214, 

Castle  of  Abiwick,  195. 

^ Bcltister.  1 13. 

— Berwick,  238. 

— Btcnkinsop,  ib, 

Cartiiigton*  106,  209. 

Castle 


INDEX, 


Ca^tU  orCtiiftinghaic.  $lfu 
,^>— — Chipchase,  \H. 

FtfitierstonehiogU,  111. 

Ford,  220. 

Hfton,  Sf'27. 

— . --Hortuni  iiedr  BIyrhc,  97, 

— ,  near  Woolcr,  817. 

Kcclder,  139, 

^— Lrtiigfey,  III. 

^Mtilord,  185, 


-Scuton  Di'laval,  91* 
'Shewing  Sbecls,  1ff9, 
-Simoi^burfi,  137. 

-Vh^urk,  on  Tynr,   138. 


-^Warkworfh,  191, 

— » Werk,  on    Tweed,  emtitp 


^— Widringfton,  188. 

Caill«  breeding,  ^9. 

Wild,    at   Chillingbam  ctLBlle, 

«17, 
Citaract,  in  tite  Brcmi^h,  116. 
Cau*cw«v,  hamlet  of,  122, 
Causey  |mrk,  18^>. 
Celts,  107,  19.^.  «I4* 
Chesterii  a  Eoroaii  itatkni,  J3f. 
— . — ^,  a  scat,   134. 
CUeesi'buni  Grnjigc,  177. 
Chin  ill  y;hatn  castle,  UI6. 
Cbtpcbuse  caMle,  1  .3, 
ChiTton,  90, 
CUapel  ill  Alnwick  ca»tle»   158. 

, — . at  Bambursh,  a  Saxon,  t?04. 

^ of  St.  Thoiiirt*  a   Becker,  m 

^ewcftAtle.^'i7. 

HT  Belli npham,  139. 
.        —  Belting  ha  nij  116, 

- ,  ncfiT  Bothiil,  our  LadyV,  188. 

^.     ^  at  Close-HQn»e,  i06* 

, HHltwhiitk\  U?, 

HaaioHj  76, 

liepple,  «09, 

.^ Lambiey,  111. 

„ Ncwcaitie.  55,  ,^9. 

«, — ^jieatoii  Delaval,  91, 

Simmiburue,  JJ6. 

.Til mouth,  226. 


Cbafch,  al  Ahieiuoiith,  1 94, 

. —Alnwick,  195. 

—  ot    AU    SdiiilJ*     Ncwcaille, 


Cburcb  of  St.  Andrew**,  N«wcasll«» 

57. 
— — —  at  Banibargb,  J06, 

Bervrickj  S35- 

^^  Hctiliogton,  9B* 

.-,    —  ^—  Bolam,  179, 

^Bothal,  187. 

Eanden,  91. 

Elidcn,  145. 

n»ltwhistle,  1 1  J. 

Ilcddoti  on*ehe-WaU,  ICW^ 

— Heiham,  1fcO«lC5. 

Holy  hlandt  130, 

Howick,  too. 

St  Jolm's.  Newcatlle,  58. 

Kirkhaugb,  107, 

Morpeth,  184, 

^  St,  Kicholaft'f,  Kewc 


55. 


Potileland,  101. 

SiRKHiburne,  187. 

— —  Tynemoutb,  86—89. 

Ciliirnim,  a*  Roman  ftation,  132. 

Cisteriiaii*,  18.?. 

ClaFeri.ig,  family  of,  100,  104,  tH, 

191i  ¥13. 
Climate  of  North omberlmnd,  3T. 
Clinch  Hill,  «I4. 
Close  House,  106. 
Coal  niinei,    16;  wrtmgbt  bj  the  Ro» 

mans,   19;  on  fire,  7 4» 
Coal  tiade  at  Ncwcutllc,  16;  ill  pvo* 

bable  duratkm,  errata,  1*7  ;  tanoos 

engines  employed  in  it,  I8» 
Cockle  Park  Tower,  188* 
Cock  fey  Tawef,  157. 
Coin«,  Romaut  3?.  47,  175, 178 ;  Sat 

on  and  English,  155«  176. 
Commohs  encbwd,  f9. 
Coiidi'Tcum,  a  Roman  nation,  Tf, 
CiJii*crraror»hip  of  the  Tyne#  53* 
Conway,  Lord,  defeated,  10 k 
Cfipeland  C.j*tle,  «19- 

John,  40,  lOl,  f  19. 


Copperat,  ^5,  7f. 

Copper  mine,  f5. 

Copsi,  earl,  slain  bj  OfulpH^  10)L 

Coquet,  riv^r,  35. 

Island,  191. 

CoRDftinc;!'.  1.^9*170, 
CordK9Ter,  a  llom«n  station,  in, 

Cuntupttum,  l7l. 

Couns  New,  iu  Kewcante^  45, 

CramiingtOHt  errata,  77, 

Crow  UaMj  116* 

CrawH 


^^^^B 

i^^^^H 

^^                                                            ^^^^^^^^^1 

Ctiwi,  baiJd  Ibcir  nest  on  n  weather- 

^H^^^H 

cock*  64. 

£ure,  family  of,  10$.                                          ^^H 

Cro»»j  fragment  of  «n  ancient,  SI 6. 

Bx change,  in  Newca^slle,  63.                                ^H 

Crj^ttib,  pebble,  in  Cucjuet  aud  Dow- 

Excommunirtttiun,  Mr».Babbington'f»              ^^| 

cnt,  35. 

and  mlermem,  179.                                          ^^H 

^^M 

CHlUu'iyati,  90, 

^M 

Ctiiin'mgli.itii,  Jobn,  Itia  epitaph,  i}8. 

Cuatom  Hoiifsc,  Newcastle^  6^. 

Fallowden  Houne,  SOt.                                       ^H 

Sl  Ctuiibeft,  tOV,  ^'18. 

Karn  bbnds,  20^.                                                ^H 

Curia,  J,  171. 

Fetheratonehaagb  caitle,  and  faaulr,  ^^H 
Fr/ri^ri,  r&9.                                                      ^H 

D. 

Peiihani,  7?.                                                          ^^H 

Dcmth*B  Dance,  ia  Eeibani  church, 

Fen  wick  Tuwer,  176.                                           ^H 

163. 

Family  of,  98,  99,  176,  17B*              ^M 

Deira,  8. 

180,  l9tK                                                          ^H 

DeUval  SealoRj  trratUf  91. 

Fliidilen  field,  haldcar,  SIS,  iSL  i                 ^H 

— ^^ — ,  famiJ y  of,  74,  93,  103,  ?^0. 

PurdCuiitle,  no.                                                  ^H 

Beiibcsburn,  I5n. 

Frfti»ci»caiij,  nr  Grey  frian,  in  Nei»-               ^^| 

Dctti»>M,  crraiei,  lfl5. 

CJiitle,  50,                                                        ^^M 

"Derwentwaler^  Ettrl  of,  17^. 

Frajtir,   Dutieiiti,     Ihe  Cheviot  bard,              ^^| 

Dcvd's  Cttu&e^ny,  8* 

^H 

Dikes  m  coal  miiie»,  i7. 

Freeman,  method  of  making,  al  Aliip             ^^| 

Dihton  Hall.   175. 

Hitk,   t94.                                                       ^H 

DisjietiAJirj  in  Newcastle,  61* 

Frifl-diDol,  m  flexhatti  church,  164.                ^^| 

_           Diisiiigton,  North  and  South,  1  Oil.        ' 

F  Lieu  a  lycouudioide«,  96.                              ^^^1 

■          Djvi<ion»,  civil  aid  eccle«ia^ticttl,  of 

^^^^1 

f              Nurihumbediwid,  15. 

^1 

D  reiigage  *er  vice,  « 1 3. 

Dniidicul  circle%  138, 

Giillow  HitL  179.                                               ^H 

Duns  SctidiA,  50,  SOt. 

G  Hie  way,  a  Sdi»n,  at  Hciham*  166.               ^^t 

Duii^t^nbrou£b|  !20t. 

George's,  Sl  least  cekbrjil<;d,  oG.                     ^^| 

GiUun,  Dr.  W.  154.                                                ^H 

i                   E. 

Glajs  works,  on  the  Tyne,  t3.                            ^H 

1 

GiuNt^N  Prie,  y.l4.                                               ^M 

■         Eichwick.  106. 

CfleHichctl,  lloman  Antiquities  at,  Itf,               ^H 

1          KnrU  of  North uiubcrland^  9,  103. 

Goalor^h^  76.                                                             ^^| 

Ear$dcn,  91. 

Ku^t  Cheaters,  a  ilomari  station,  iSf* 

Griiot,  a  curious,  f  15.  ^^M 
Gnat  Ch  esters,  a  Hutu  an  station,  1?0,              ^^M 

■            Kddcntuiic.  157. 

Grey,  family  of,  WK),  Sl6,  S17,  128*,               ^H 

■           Kdliiigham  CiistJe,  f lf« 

^^      iudward  the  Fir*t,  anecdote  of,  76. 

Grcystoke,  family  of,  185.                                 ^H 

^H^Jlxlinghaiu  Caidc,  91f. 

GuvEunce,  a  nunnery  at,  189,                           ^H 

^^^KEli^hnir,  149. 

^^1 

^^^VEllingbaru,  errafa,  SOS. 

B.                              ^M 

^^^SUden,  145. 

^^1 

^^■XUwick,  tsto,  7$. 

Ilabitaiicum,  n  Roman  itation,  14K                 ^H 

^^^K^iu riasurc*,  '49. 

11  .idriuifs  Vallum,  !f,  1.^5.                                  ^H 

^^^B^iigHie^i  u>ecl  in  coul  tulcicg,  ISw 

Huerlttw.  «ll».                                                       ^H 

Haerupbyni,  canipat,  ti5.                               ^H 

^^^HBf'iacum,  158. 

Haggerston,  203,  *i3U                                        ^H 

^^■'Enieshaw,  i:>7. 

MftlhnKton,  157.                                                ^M 

^■P-Sinngtun,  familj  of,  135,  158. 

Halli>vell,96.                                                      ^M 

^P^  E*tiiigton,  ^13. 

HitU^ittnie,  errata,  9f>0.                                    ^^M 

■           Jbthcl,  chair  of  kiug,  130, 

llahonchcster»,  a  Roman  station,  175,            ^^| 

h 

^M 

IKDEX, 


Uaftoo  Tower,  l73, 

fl«riiing,  ilteClMonickrt  191. 
i/<*'f'>wr.r,  180. 

HnughtonCaMlc,  l58. 

llcatori  (full,  1i 
Ht^td^moU'thfWnU,  106. 
Hcnuitngcoi  Warkwortb,  errato,i9'i, 

— — ,  Ji  »c»t.  1^7. 

Iirr0ii>   Giie9,    foauder  of  «  School^ 

138. 
lltpplc,  «09. 
Bcslicfcidct  139, 
llvxvtt  Cttslfc,  tn, 
Hicham,  1.^8^168. 
Hexham,  John  of,  167. 
— — — -t  Richard  of,  ib* 
Hoc.  &  brook,  53. 

Hurstev*  the  Rev  John.  IB^. 
Horton  Castle,  97,^17. 
Uo»pittils>  in  Newcastle,  5I»  6?. 
Umpilalj  Bt  RoUoD.  f  1^. 
Elifhaw.  149. 
>  TvTK'iuoutkj  81. 
>  Wooler,  If  18. 

Hoii»c»teocli,  a  Eofann  stat'iODj  if 5* 
Howkk,  too, 
Wuinc  Abbey,  198. 
I{um§>taughf  frrasm,  138. 
fiaoiium,  a  Roniiiii  iilalion,  ITS. 
Hitiulriiivillej   immly  ofj   140^  169, 

H^pocattst>  tee  Baihs. 
L 

llderton,  ?15. 

ItifirmarYj  Newcastle,  60* 

Ingram  IliJt,  '2U. 

InttitutioDp  New.  in  Ncwciitk^  67. 

Iron  wi>r|i5,  X5,  99,  105. 

Iroii  siofie.  16,  '2b. 

Ulandfrliiro,  '^18. 


John,  Sl  T^e,  1$7. 
John,  palace  of  king,  7<S- 
Jubikc  School,  in  Nr frc^aije*  i 
J  aim,  Dr.  138* 


Keeper  of  T^Mlale,  dii9pi)te  about  m1 

rt-Mdcncc,  165. 
KecU,  fttafute  concerooig^  31. 
Ktrkhaugk  107. 
Kirkharlc,  177. 
Kifkley,  10«. 

Kistvacn.  107,  149,177,  214* 
hnaresdnie,  110. 
K night's  templar,  effigies  of,  9ft  *i% 

I7y,  191,  «07. 
Kyl««j  curious  annttor  foimd  at*  f$h 

L. 

Laid  ley  worm,  tfOT. 
Lamblcv  nnnoery.  I  lOi 
Uuglej-  Castle.  !»>. 
L*nx,  a  CO  I  ion*  silver,  17  fi* 
I^wrence,  Si.  chapel  i>e«  N' 

54. 
LawMin,  family  of,  76,  17. 
I^eam,  appliciition  of  the  term^  141» 
LcBd  mines,  v5>  ^l,  l30. 

Lectureship,  in  Hexham  ch^rcht  I 
LemmtHgUm  iron  works,  105- 
seat,  126. 


the 


J. 


Jarrow,  58. 


Leslj>  Gvnernit  defeats  Lord  CawAj 

atNcwbnriit,  104. 
Lewis  holes,   used   hjr 

133,  14L 
Libraries.  57,  67.  «04. 
Lilburn  loweri  216. 
Lime,  V8. 
Luidiifnrne,  238. 
Lindan,  189. 
LiohiUs,  bailie  at,  167. 
Linhope  ipout,  a  cataract*  9lSi] 
Lisle,  family  of,  77,  153,  i«9,  ^ 
Little  Baviiigton,  177. 
Little  Chesiers^  a  Eomaii  ttatiod,  II 
Lillle  Harle,  tmitn,  178* 
Literary  ajid  IMiilcsophteal  Society,  I 

NewcuKtic,  67- 
Lovfi  Hars/fy,  1*^9. 
Lon^  1t'i/l0»  Hull,  18K 
Luifajue,  177- 
Jjowes,  family  of,  116. 

Mm 


INDEX. 


M. 

&Iatdini.way,  a  Roman  road,  7. 
Magna,  a  Roman  station,  1 17. 
Maison  de  Dieu,  in  ^fewcastle,  51. 
Mansion  House,  in  do.  65. 
Manures  used  in  Northumberland,  *^Q. 
Marches  of  ihe  Border,  IS,  29. 
MargaieC,  queen  oi  Scotland,  210. 
Marie,  S8  ;  niarlepits,  «?4. 
Marley,  Sir  John,  bis  gallant  defence 

of  Newcastle,  41,56. 
Matfen,  West,  177. 
Mayor  of  Newcastle,  53,  71. 
Meeting   Houses    of   Dissenters,    io 

Newcastle,  59- 
Merlay,  family  of,  183. 
Middleion,  family  of,  84,  180,  183. 
Milfcurne  House,  103 ;  Grange,  ib. 
Mindrum,  ^•24, 
Miusteraores,.  168. 
Mitford  Castle,  18  >. 
Moises,  the  Rcr.  Hugh,  60. 
MoJesden,  185. 
Monce  Know,  i39. 
Monks  stone,  91. 
Monkchester,  38. 
Montague,   Mrs.    Elieabeth,    errata, 

105. 
MoRpBTH,  183^185. 
Mote  Hill,  138,  145,  157. 
Mowbray,  Earl,  10,  39. 
Myrica,  or  sweet  gale,  J12. 
Muicamp  barouy,  217.. 

N. 

Netherwardf^^f  iSt. 
Netherwitton,  189. 
Kewbrough,  ISO;  Romao  antiquities 

at,  118. 
Neiobume,  113, 

Newcastle  upon  Tymf,  36— 7f. 
Newcastle  assembly  rooms,  66. 

•— Augustine  Friars,  50. 

Baths,  6f. 

' Blackfriars,  49. 

,  Bridge  of,  47. 

,  caMle  of,  39—44. 

— Carmelites,  51. 

-  churches,  and  chapels,  .55, 


59. 


-,  corporation  of,  71. 

~  Custom  house,  66. 

-  Dissenting  Meeting  houses. 


Newcastle  Eschangev  63. 

• Fairs,  71. 

-^ Gales  in  the  walls,  47. 

Hospitals,  51,  6/. 

—*• Hugh,  of  NcHCdstie,  50. 

— Libraries,  5«»,  67, 

Muisoii  de  Dicu,  54. 

— —  Mansion  bouse,  65. 

— Markers,  71. 

— " Medical  instkutions,  60, 6f. 

North umberlaud  house,  b6L 

— Nunnery,  49. 

Parishes  and  population, 3S* 

•  Pilgrim  sUeet,  68. 

Pr»moi)strat«nsians,  54- 

Religious  houses,  49—55. 

—  Schools,  .^3,  bO. 

'liege  of,  41. 

Theatre,  67, 

Trinity  house,  65w 

Walls  oU  45. 

Westmoreland  place,  6t. 

Newminsler  abbey,  185. 

Newsham,  97. 

Newton  Tor,  tl9. 

Nobles,   gold  of  Edward  the  Third. 
176. 

Norhamshire,  994. 

North  Shields,  89. 

Northumberland,  the  country  of  the 
Ottadini,  1  ;  boMMlaries  of  the  aia- 
cient  kingdom  of,  8 ;  present  boun- 
daries of  the  county,  and  ciril  and 
ecclesiastical  divisions,  15 ;  soil,  &c. 
85 ;  el  ieq. 
Nunneries,  49,  1  lO,  189. 
Nunwick,  137. 


Ogle  Castle,  101. 

.family of,  101,  lOf,  186,   188, 

189,  fit. 
Ord,  family  of,  7f.  ISO,  185. 
Oswald's,  St.  diapel,  155. 
Ottadini,     the    boundaries  of  their 

country,  1. 
Otterboume,  castle,  and  battle  of,  eiv 

rata,  146. 
Otho,  coins  of,  76. 
OVINOHAM,  175. 

P. 

Parchment,  with  old  characters  upoa 
it,  47.  *^ 

Paintings 


I  INDEX. 


[  FatntmgijeniioQt,  to  Hexbftm  ^orcti, 

I  Fatnpedon,  or  Paudoa,  in  Newcntl«, 

^  PalJiiuburn,  iff). 

P«rkeiid«  1S8« 

Paiton,  tfl9. 

Patat'i,  St.  charch,  London*  built  by 
a  dutjr  UI1  coils,  iS. 

Pc«ce.  coitctudej  «i  PonteUnil,  101. 
I  Pcatantrv»  aiulc  of,  in  Nt^rlliumbcr* 
Jnnd^  30. 

Pebbte»,  or  iicfRtes«  S5> 

Pelting  ftom  .  un  Holy  Island^  130. 

Penance  of  Jon*,  Fnur»uf.  5i. 
1  Percy,  fumily  of,  trrait,  196* 

Percy  "s  crouj  «I4* 
,  Piciuff  >.  6(>,  l^  K 

PiJgTiiir*  Ion,  Ncvrcasllc.  6B, 

Pillar*,  wNinfttonc,  '2is,  tw. 

PUgiie,  in  Ncwcaaile,  63  j  in  Korth 
ShiildH  87. 
'  Puns  <^lti,  II  Roman  fUiiou^  $7,  lOl* 

Fiftittlatut  A 01, 

Populuiion  of  Nfirlhtitnhrrland,  td. 
.  Porlrniif,  6t,  6i, ')':.  1^8.  :?  17* 

Prfbmonstr&t'nisianN.  .^1.  t68.  lf)9. 

Priories  in  N'cwcatile»4d — 51* 

l;fii;khurnj  190* 

Ilcklunu  If  R' 

' >  Tyiiemoutli,  flL 

'  PfocoUiift,  ii  Roman  siuriiinj  WO* 

£rudhoe  Qhitln,  169. 


Quaker^  bori.il  f  roand,  90. 
Quakers,  Number  of,  in  Northtirabf  r- 
Uftd,  15. 

KatclifTcj,  family  of,  105,  17?,  409, 

Bedc&daie,  MO. 
I  Bccovcry,  Howit  of,  in  Nencaj;fe,61* 
>  Jlentat  tf  Ihc  poenty.  vtf. 

KicJimtmi!,  Oukc  of,  his  duty  on  coaU^ 

^  RiddcU,  family  oC,    j5j,  177,    1B9, 

2?6. 
Bidley  Hall,  11^. 
Kidley,  farmly  of,  96,  llf,  116,  UO, 

1«S. 
Fikiugham,  a  Rorom  imtionj  MI. 
EiTcrt,  3i, 


Roman  coiiu,  ST,  59*  47,  lOg^  lOf, 

13.1. 
Roman  in^ripfions,  Ate.  »t  Ben«ellL 

75. 

-BletikiQJiop  cudr. 


Caerroran^  117. 
CarroH  brtt(h« 


lis. 


1^9. 


iiro. 


17S. 


L -..  .,J,   114, 

'  Urirat  Cbejiert, 

llmltoa  0>caten» 

T'     '  159. 


Its, 


ter»,  153* 


107. 


■f  JILj 

1  176. 

J  79. 

Walwi<:li   CtMt* 

►  Welton,  17fi. 


Rofiinn  mileilnnev,  Iff,   141. 

ring*,  117,  119,  114. 

-^     —  r^ads  7. 

»ilvir  vcnelf,  17f,  175,  tTt. 

wnU*,  2—7,  105,  lO.  l-iP. 

Robia  uf  Reittigham,  144. 

Rirhthter,  u  Human  »tmtjon,  149» 

R  (id  da  til,  tit. 

Uoscdcii  edge,  camp  at,  21ii» 

RoTMuviiY,  *ztiii^ 

Roditeycitstle,  191, 

Rutdiester,  a  Homuii  ttatiofi,  17^ 


Sfilmon  fliherif  5  on  ihc  Tv'ne,  5S ;  i» 

lUe  IVicd,  »a  ;  nt  WAik^ttrlh,  S5^ 

Schools  at  Alnwitkj  T9dv 

^ — Biifnt>ur(^h  cii%Ue,  fOfi, 

Bcrviick,  7M, 

Hii^don  bhdg<»,  iSt. 

Haii^vhink,  lit, 

i»,W 

— —  NcwCMtle^SS,  60» 

Scboolt 


^      -     •* 

H^^^^^H 

■p                                                 ^^^^^^^ 

SchooU  lit  Pont«Uiid,  lOi- 

^^^^^^^H 

—  Wrtik,  138. 

T^yzelt  Castle.                                  ^^^^^^H 

Sctlec]jesrcr»  1S5< 

TynOf  river,  3f.                                   ^^^^^^^^H 

Scotuf  Duit*.  .^,  <0f. 

lynemautht  errdtta,  19—89;                         ^^^^H 

■        Seats,  curious  uncirntt  39,  65,  StL 

^^^^^^H 

Tytbes,  <8.                                                      ^H 

■        5«afore  iUtce,  95. 

^^^1 

Segedunttui^  ii  Roman  Italian*  7$. 

H 

SeghiU,  96. 

Selby.  family  of,  «IK  $t9. 

VitidubaU.  a  Rom^n  itiition,  176.                       ^^M 

Serjeancy,  grand,  76, 

V'ludolaaa,  a  Human  italion,  li'h                      ^^M 

Sev^fui's  wall,  4,  l'/5. 

ShAW,  theRci'.  Julia,  lOO. 

1 

Sheep,  diUVfcni  brtcdawf,  :29* 

Shewing  ShieJdv  1^9. 

Uiulutnk,  a  teit,  1  tS.                                     ^H 

Silver  Komanvesieh,    17*,  175.  118. 

1 

Stman^Mrn  cliurcli,  custle,  Skc.  136. 

■         Smeaton,  MrJmjirovcr  of  Sti^nni  en- 

^^M 

■  siaes,     i:)  ;    consuk&d    rcipectictg 

■  Newcatilti  bridge,  48;  pulUduiru- 

Walkrr  colliery,  m  reoiarkable  basalt^              ^^M 

dike  in.  17,  78.                                                  ^H 

■             ]»i<fttoii  HaJl,  173. 

WaltB,  Eofuan.  «-  7,  IfO.                                   ^H 

f         Soil  uf  Norltiumbvrl.ind,  ^5. 

Walb«ce,  family  of.  1 10,  n9.                              ^M 

Stahfoudiiam,  t?6. 

Waltsrnil,  a  Raman  station,  7  d.                           ^^M 

Sittftnihgton,  97. 

Wallii.  ihc  Rev.  John.  157.                                  ^H 

H         Stavrard  le  Feci,  ]  Id. 

Wall,  Town.  1^0.                                                  ^H 

■        State's  Hull,  7  %, 

Waiwick,  rn-Afa.a/ii/.  ir^d-                                 ^^M 

■        Htoue CU01I19,  I6h. 

— ^ — •*'  CUesii^rf,  a  lid  man  ititjoa,              ^^B 

■        Sudatory,  tec  biith. 

^H 

■        Swinb»iruecj«iile,  155. 

Grange,  Iji.                                       ^H 

Woni.  or  DLii.itibei!lc.  river.  1*^0.                           ^^^1 

■           170,  Itsivyif, 

^rark,  mid  castle,  133.                                         ^H 

■                              T. 

1  WAna^vomn.  ^rmfa,  190.                                  ^H 

Walling  Street,  7.                                                  ^H 

Tapestry,  at  Bambnrgh  gaitte,  201, 
K         Tarset  kUH,  139. 

Weeblt^r,  Nonh.  99.                                          ^M 

Wtib,  mineral,  facred,  or  pctrirvins,               ^^^| 

1         Tauru  esluarium,  34 

75«  96. 1V0,  irlO.  yif,  il6,  t2«7.                    ^H 

I        Theatre,  in  Newcasllej  67, 

Well,  curious,  al  Bauiburgti  coatle^              ^^M 

■         Thirl  wall  csutle,  and  family,  1 15. 

^M 

■         Tboruton,  Roger,  .^4,67,  18/, 
1         Threepwood,  1 16. 

Nr-nrrn^rlr  '^ff    i4                   ^^H 

WtUon,  175.                                                               ^H 

W         TKr^cktrhglOH,  177. 

TFcriCt,  and  caailc.  tf  I.                                        ^H 

Tilraoiilh*  vicar  uf.   ««7. 

Westmoreland  riai;c«  In   NvwcattJe,              ^^M 

-Iloim".  ^«7. 

^M 

■          Tindate,  South,  107. 

Wcrhiirostede,  John,  87.                                  ^^1 

■ ,  North,  136 

Whet^lou<^»,  150                                                  ^H 

I         Toad,  toii^td  enclosed  in  marhle,  SI 6. 

Whitchestcr.  1«>7,  1 J5.                                          ^H 

I         T<>tubi  and  Tombtironti,  remarkuble. 

Whitfield,  i:)0.                                                      ^M 

■             57,  UK>,  103.   1ST,   13%  143,  163, 

Whitlnj.'^O.                                                          ^H 

168,  1«1, 187, 

W  hit  ley  Caatk,  a  Unman  nation,  t07.              ^H 

Town  ILill.  Berwick,  937. 

Whaiom.  9y.                                                   ^H 

■          *J fCvclyaii,  family  of,  180,  182. 

rr^rfO/fif^4'i»,  21'>.                                              ^H 

1         Tnmiuritins,  m  Newcasile,  51. 

^^idrnig^if»Cu»tk',  189.                                       ^^H 

"           Tfiniry  Huusp,  iadu,  65. 

1                    .  family  nf,  ]18,  15.5,  176,              ^H 

Tomer.  Or.  W.  184. 

177.  ia8,f09,till*                                            ^H 

Turpin's  liiil,   i07. 

Witfrul^    St.    louudcr    of    Hexhan|              ^^M 

K        Tweed,  ri>fer,  34. 

church,  lipO.                                                        ^^B 

Wininioieiwiek,            ^^1 

^M 

^^^^^^^TND^^^^^^^^^^^H 

^^^^^H   WiJtiraoteiwtck,  lt£. 

Y.                 ^^ 

^^^^^H  Wrtron 

^^^^^H  Woodbodge^   Eomaa   antiquitlet  at, 

YcTvehng-bcll,     a     curious     fofUfic^^H 
tnoatitatn,  118.                                   ^^| 

^^^^^H  Wood  mas,  the  Rer.  FriincU,  96. 

■ 

^^^^H    WOOLIR, 

^1 

^^^^   WyL 

tw,  175. 

Zinc,  36.                                              ^H 

^^^^ 

Errata  et  Addenda.                                  ^H 

^^^^HjMve. 

iin«;                                                                                                                         1 

^^^^H    16 

W  Jiff  fliOTn1>ord«.  mrd  rhomboid*.                                                                   J 

^^^^H    17 

SB    lifter  yc^f  p  ffcfcf  And  a  quarter.                                                                         j^^H 
S3  /or  El  wick,  read  El»wick.                                                                                     d^H 

^^^^H  «o 

^^^^^H     M 

.10    i^cr  There,  add  Htc                                                                                               ^^^| 
S4   /or  Ti»e,  f^ad  ri«C9.                                                                                                       ^^H 

^^^^^B    ^ 

^^^^^B     M 

9g    fbt  pt>nnd5i,  read  »hlllinf«.                                                                                      ^^H 

^^^^v  ^ 

14   Jf^r  live  luiiic,  read,  four  Doric.                                                                            ^^^H 

^^^F          ^ 

90  /or  cciiiceri  i  ooro,  rrad  gmiiftryt  Ae.                                                                   ^^H 

^^E 

«0  /%»r  aniiuii.  Jicod  antftiiu                                                                                           ^^H 

SI   ybr  pr<»pieiur,  rfAtf  propltietnr,                                                                        ^^H 
11    read  rtVf r/ct^                                                                                                                  ^^H 

^^^^H    ao 

S4    tKA^  cirium  biisUicam,                                                                                              ^^H 

^^^^H    9S 

5   /or  R^yuolds^  rtod  Coiwiiy.     -                                                                         ^J^^l 

^^^^^B  iS 

S4  ^/br  the  Honourable.  *i^c.  fo  fitted,  read  Kdw^f  d  Mont»f^ac.  E»Q.  w**  m^^M 

Chufk-s,  nrih  «an  of  the  fir^t  E^rl    of  Snniwich*  wiio  Irit  hi«  lurge  po* ^^^H 

^^^^^^^^v 

•««-sjon^  tfi  hi-^  widon\  Fli^nbeOi  MonLi^ui.-.  tin-  nble    antl  elcfAnl  drf«^^^H 

^^^^^^^^^ 

der  of  s                                       JLV  invtaRiusKafTility  of  YolUlrc  :  ibslE6i  ^^ 

^^K 

rtffd  ci  •                                           iiiriA«                                                                             1 

81   /or  C !                                           ...rt,                                                                                       1 

^^^^H.    11» 

3    /^r  Tl;,.!     .      ,    .     ,   ■■  r,.iri«-t-l(,                                                                                                          1 

^^^^B    116 

3   ^r...    Mi'.!|".^ 1  ?r-<j£i  Tfireapwood.                                                                                1 

^^^^M  1^9 

9    j4.^   i;. ,,.,.,..  ,.;,d  jWi,<r;w.                                                                                 J 

^^^^^^      ISl 

11    Jor'i^M,   rcVrrC^flo                                                                                                                                      ^^J 

11    for  EA VR  SEV.  read  AVR  SET*,                                                                    ^H 

^^^H            lee  &  ie4rrm  iti(*»fi1  is  rra<ev icinali».                                                                            ^^H 

^^^^^    146 

H  /'  ^        .7,jf.                                                                   -^m 

^^^^B    130 

H 

^^^^B     14* 

S()     '                           Diw.                                                                                                              ^H 

^^^^     14$ 

(JiihKinnHNE  CASTLE  and  c^t;1'                                                      "     ^ '^H 

Gtibrir^l  HalU  K^q.  nt  CaUl^ogh,  1^                                                                        ^   ^H 

^^^^^L 

by  yv\n,  m  iri5,  lo  Robert  Ellison,  >                                                                     •  ^H 

^^^^^^^^H 

litm  lo    l»(!(  iion  llniry  ElliKon,                                                                              "*   ^^| 

^^^^^^^^H 

Ihcy  wrrt'  pineljii*id  by  RIr»  •                                                                             *^  ^H 

^^^^^^^^^ft 

thr  vUL^-e  :   <utd  Ia*t!v.  aftet 

-•'  ^^H 

^^^^^^^^^1 

a  *l*»crec  ol'lhe  court  of  Ch^nrtrv  :  tjm-   Li-ri..    ninn-r,    uno  u- T^r-.e    ^^ 

^^^^^^^^^M 

lumU,  lu  Jnincv  Ellt-*,  t*q.  and  the  vilI«s<J  »lid  rnrt  of  the  land*,  lo  Joltu 

^^^^^^^^^B 

pii,*.'if!*<jr,  K*q.  'f  V»MvraUU. 

^^^^^V    159 

jg     r-7            ■                  ■  ■           ^    n. 

^^^^H    179 

8    '                                        Lord  Ch«iJ«  Murray,  mwl  «/lPer  relieti  (I  UJ 

^^^^H    170 

£4   ^cu                                                                                              ^^m 

^^^^B  ifii) 

8  fur  Atift  Mmor.  rrt»rf  Turkey  In  Europe.                                                         ^^^H 

^^^^H    19^ 

14  yi^r  intcrdkr,  i-rad  tnttrdiu.                                                                                ^^H 

^^^H  ^s 

«y   ^i?r  Vv*CM,  read  Vescy*                                                                                          ^^H 

^^^^l   396 

1.1    /orS^xto.  rc4><<  Scrlo.                                                                                               ^^H 

^^^H   197 

aa    *t;tiTr  liu**.  «d«r  and  that  of  Karl  of  Beverly  lo  wliich  be  wtt  «4««M«|^H 

in  1790.                                                                                                                ^^\ 

^^^^^B  108 

34  /brtheri*!*  «  lizht  Tion&f?,   rtvif/ there  iirc  two  Hiiht  hou^cv  •w^  ^^t«*         1 

^^^^^^^^^B 

^mler ♦  tfdd  Tft^rf  i^  also  k  hghl  lioose  ou  ot>c  of  Vht  fitilhcf  i>Utid%*               J 

t(   /brl70                                                                                                                        ^^H 
lO/orllu.                     rd  Hngecntoij.                                                                    ^^H 

^^^^^m  $03 

^^^^^H 

^^^^H    fl04 

19   />r  lanu,  'r,/a  !^.iikJ«                                                                                                        ^^^| 

^^^^^1    503 

a   /t?r  fiCDiew.  (SrkO  I'eajj  iieiniieUj,  <Siix.)                                                       ^^1 

^^^^^l    CU7 

30    deU  or,  tfn.l  ^ir^dt  «                                                                                                            ^^H 

^^^^H    «^ 

B   /or  Joo,  trad  Ivo*                                                                                                    ^^H 

^^^^^H    SIO 

Id    ;br  Kellorw,  read  Kellowc.                                                                                  ^^H 

^^^^H    SIS 

ea   >br  Hodden,  rc^rf  Floddeu.                                                                               ^^H 

^^^^H  fi^T 

♦   Jhr  two,  rrad  too.                                                                                                          ^^^ 

^^^^H  3je 

15  /<?rGiwc!.,  re«»rf  Garros.                                                                                                   1 

^^^^^p  »?f 

2   />r  mliddis  ri'ad  middle                                                                                               1 

^^^^^^^^^ 

3    ric«<f  «ind,  n«Rr  the  fir^i,  rnins  of  $1.  GlleiiS  chnpcl  wilk,                                     1 

^^H 

S9  far  Charltou*  read  Carltc/u.                                                                                         1 

A 

LIST 

OF  THE   PRINCIPAL 

BOOKS,  MAPS.  AND  PKIXTS, 

WHICH    HAVL  B£E,ii  PUELISHED 

Illustrative  of  the  Topography,  Antiquities  ^  Sfcofthe 
COUNT r  OF  SOTTINGHAM. 


NOTTlNGHAMSinR£* 

•*ThE  Aiittqyitief  of  Notlitighamslilre,  with  mapv,  prospects,  and 
jWHirlriilures/'*     Londofi,  1677,  foL  By  Dr.  Thorolou. 

"  Thorotwn's  Bhtory  of  Nottingli  am  shire.  Bepublislied  wUh 
large  additions.     By  J*>hn  Throsby,  3  Vols,"  4lo.  1790- 

Wf  understand  that  Charles  Mdlbh.  Esq,  of  BIylh,  F.  R,  S.  bad 
long  been  occupied  in  collecting  additions  for  Thoroton's  work, 

ARMORi/iL  Collections, 

Some  ArmSp  Monumenls,  &c,  collected  by  E.  Ashmolc,  1663, 
were  arranged  No.  854  in  his  library, 

TOWK   OF  NoTTiyOHAM. 

*'  Notlini^hamia vetus et  nova;  or  the  ancient  and  present  State  of 
ibe  Town  ot  NoUingham.  By  Charles  Deermg,  M.  D»  Notting- 
ham 17Sl,**4to. 

Previous  to  the  piib'ication  of  this  work.  Dr.  Deering  brought  otit 
•'A  BoUnical  Catalogue  oi  Plants  about  Nottiiighain  in  8vo,*'  lu 
1738. 

Castri  NottingUamicnsis  Deiicriptio,  may  t>e  found  in  a  small  work 
published  i^  London  in  1629,  in  Svo.  called*'  Epi;;ruininaton  opuscu- 
luni  ^'kiobus  libelUs  dblinctuni.  Sec.  Authore  llunUiigdono  Plumtfc, 
A*  M.Cantab/' 

In  the  early  part  of  last  century  there  seems  to  liave  heen  some  d?s» 
agreement  about  the  building  of  ihe  Gii^l-i,  Sec. ;  but  as  ihb  has  long 
been  settled,  we  think  it  unnecessary  to  trouble  our  readers  with  a  dry 
recapitulation  of  the  pamphlets  on  that  subject.  Some  account  of 
them  njay  be  found  in  **  Gough's  Topograpl*ical  Anecdotes,"  acd 
elsewhere. 

Plaos  of  Nottingham   Castle  and  Town  may  be  found  io  *'  De- 
ring's 

<•  Richard  Hnll  wa*  the  drfltightsro*in ;  Holler  the  etcher,  1676,  and  $L 
Mtry's  cliurcb  U  iuppo«ed  t«  be  viiiring^t  the  lait  of  his  ^iKkt. 


410 


UST  OP  BOOK&i  Sec. 


ring's  Hiaoi  V  ;*'  and  a  plan  of  iheTown  iffsis  df ain  published  by  Jofaa 
BaUiler  aiid'Vhoma*  Peat  in  1744. 

has  been  illustniteilby 

«•  The  Kiston  »nd  Antiquiiies  of  ihe  Town  of  Newark,  in  iHe 
county  of  NoUiiiflbani,  (ihe  iJulnaceaster  of  the  Romans,)  interspen- 
etl  \vtUi  Birtgrajimcal  Skeldie^i.  By  Wjlliam  Dickinson.  Esq."  4lo. 
ISOti.  This  only  forms  part  of  an  intended  General  lii>tor>*  of  the 
County* 

Southwell 

has  be«n  ItUistrated  by  Dugdale,  vrho  at  the  end  of  hit  •«  Hiftmy 

of  St.  Paurs,"  uiibUshed  in  1716,  has  given  a  Hi^lorv  of  U*e  Colle- 
giate Church.  There  arc  Vit-ws  of  it  by  Hall  and  Hollar  in  Thoro- 
ton ;  N.  and  W.  pn^^pects  of  it  in  the  Mana-^licon,  Vol.  UI*;  and 
m  South  view  of  tJif  Palace  engraved  liy  Buck  in  1726- 

**  A  History  of  the  Antmurtie?  of  the  Town  and  Church  of  $<votb- 
wen.  By  W.  Dickin^n  Rastall,  A*  M*  Fellow  of  Je^ua  Collcgf 
CamUricfge.**  ^to.  1787* 

**  AnlHinitieSi  Historical,  Architectural,  Choroi^phiGal»  aind  ftii»- 
erary,  in  Nottiu^liatnshire  and  lUe  adiaccnt  Countn^«  Containing  (in 
lliut'  part  already  published,)  the  History  of  Southwell,  the  (Ad 
Ponleni  of  ihe  Romans/)  with  Biographical  Sketches,  by  Wiiltam 
Dickinson,  Esq.*' 

Mansfjcld* 

"The  History  of  Man«iidd,  aiid  of  its  Environs  in  m .»  parts,  con- 
tainijigthe  AniiquUks  and  Present  State.  By  Williani  Uarrotl,  4to," 

VIEWS.  i£c. 

Various  Views  in  tlte  County  have  been  engraved  by  Buck,  Stc* ; 
but  these  and  so  many  Maps  of*^  N  ollinghamshire  have  been  pubtiif 
recently^  detached  and  in  the  various  Atlasses,  atid  are  so  easily  to  1 
met  with,  that  it  would  lie  a  work  of  pedantic  su  'tn't<i  [ 

tend  to  insert  them  i^ill ;  we  shall,  therefore,  close  '  rJi^ome  i 

the  most  important  articles  to  be  faiind  in  the  il\ititiAN  Coll£C- ' 
TION  of 

MSS.   IK   THE   BrITISU   MuSEtJM. 


South wortirs  Report  of  the  Repairs  of  Notting- 
ham Cai^tie  in  the  15th  of  Ehsabeih. 

Part  of  a  brief  Description  of  the  County,  in 
tJie  same  reiKii* 

Visitation  of  Noll*.  1569,  by  WilUam  Flower, 
Norroy,  king  at  Anns. 


Nos. 

363. 

5L 

53, 

S96. 

3. 

Nos, 

4196. 

128. 

1057. 

29. 

1400. 

1. 

1535. 

1171. 
1394. 

4,  10,  24. 
81,  85,  88. 

1457. 
2043. 

37. 
63. 

4954. 

6593. 

6238. 
6822. 
7020. 

2. 

LlftT  OP  BOOKS,   kc,  411 


Nomina  liberi  Tenentium  in  Comitatu  Notting- 
ham. 13(>9. 

Alpltahet  of  Arms,  in  Blazon,  of  the  Notting- 
hamshire Gentry. 

Visitatio'.i  of  Notts,  by  Sir  Richard  St.  George, 
Norroy,  king  at  Anns  in  I6l4,  &c. 

Many  Genealogical  notices  of  the  County,  with 
Arms,  &c. 

Many  Genealogical  Notices. 

Church  Notes  and  Arms  in  Anncsley,  Titheby, 
and  VVhalton. 

Arms  of  tlie  Nottinghamshire  Gentry. 

Imperfect  Notes  concerning  the  Nottinghamshire 
Baronets,  and  their  behaviour  to  Charles  the 
1st.  Placita  Forests  de  Sherwood,  of  8  Edw. 
3.  ad  tempus  Hen.  6. 

Numerous  Extracts  from  old  Deeds,  with  Monu- 
mental Inscriptions,  &c. 

Short  Description  of  Notts. 

Grants  from  Henry  the  8th  to  divers  Persons. 

Li  >t  of  the  Gentlemen  and  most  substantial  Free- 
holders in  Notts. with  tlie  names  of  the  persons 
who  signed  the  association. 


INDEX 


INDEX 


TO 


THE  COVNTY  OF  NOTTISOHAM. 

*  ^  *    The  Market  Towks  ire  printed  in  Small  Caplult ; 
ttie  rit^ffi  ill  Itnlics. 


Anecdotes  of  the  E*rU  of  Not- 

littglmm,  6  ;  curious,  of  lotigcvitji 
14  i  of  Sir  Hugh  Wilioagliby,  lit ; 
Sir  John  Borh^e  Warrtii*  176; 
Clifton  family  siid  wedding,  186; 
wise  men  of  Gut  ham  ^  183  ;  Sir 
Thomas  Parkju*,  the  fnuiuu^ 
wrctiler,  199;  aucienC  dame  at 
Edwtlton,  JOS;  Colonel  Hulcliin* 
•on,  SU5;  Old  Soldier,  «ll;  at 
Bingh»m,  fi4;  of  Crtniticr,  V19; 
of  JiimcA  L  ^f%  ;  of  Dr  Harwrn, 
g49;  of  Lord  LoveU  252 ;  of 
monkish  limei,  SJ7  I  ;  of  Fcrrjman 
and  hi*  dog»  17b  ;  of  a  ^tven  go^o 
given  lo  a  nun,  «79i  of  chiviilrj^ 
^a4  ;  of  Jodge  Mark  ham,  VSH  j  of 
the  Hollia  fiimilv,  t9^\ ;  of  Mart*n 
Frobiiher,  305  ;*  *>f  ancenl  ecdc- 
»ia«ticul  urchiicctuie.  3'21?;  of  Enrl 
of  Arundel,  340;  ol  Howard,  tarl 
of  Noirmghanig  34j  ;  of  Godfrey 
Schak'keii,3.'i5;  of  ilic  proud  Duke 
of  Soiuemci,  355;  of  Sir  tiogh 
Middleton,  357  ;  of  Hogiirth,  3f>3i 
Fa^ca]  Puoli,  369  ;  Dodsley,  383 ; 
Jedidiah  Buxtun,  589;  Sir  John 
Stanhope^  40D. 

Annesley,  ib* 

Antiquites,  Britiih,  S. 

*-^— — —  Koinan*  4- 

Aniiquity  of  ifcea,  exlraordinarj^  6t. 


Architecture  ofcouiify*  4tL 
Arnold,  4'^7. 

Aticnh&voughf  and  t»iograpbjr4»  l^> 
Ji?erAowi,  to3, 

B. 

Bafowoith*  and  icAts  in  victxiit^i  5t4 
515. 

Bamby  in  ttie  WiHo«r>,145.. 

Barrncks  at  N'ottinghara«  116. 

Barton,  187. 

Btt$ford  and  Peverel  Couri,  159. 

Bawtbv,  SiU 

BeJittvatle  Abbej*  163* 

Beeithorpe,  t5S. 

Beskwood,  407. 

Bilborough^  165. 

Bi1»tborp«i  391. 

Ltiagra|>hy  of  county,  4C* 

BmoiiAM,  «15. 

Hiihop  Blaixe.  »ome  accotintoC  S45* 

Blacow  hid,  300. 

Bled  worth,  40]. 

Bhfth,  and  vicinltj,  3t6*  et  »«<). 

Bounds  and  rule*  of  foreM»  38. 

Bradehu'^k  Priory,  «74. 

Brad  more,  mf, 

Bnvmcote,  167;  hills,  %6S, 

Brcwcriei,  36* 

Brightman,  acxouni  of  Willimm,  tS4^ 

British  antiquities,  3. 

Broadholm  Mi«na3t<"fy,f79. 

BuHwell  and  Piewipe  haM.  160. 

Huuiiif  l*ark  find  villa ge»  199; 

Burton  Joyce>  tlS, 

Casalsi 


id 


INDEX. 


C. 

Canali,  3^ 

Calverton,  407. 

Carburton,  S7«. 

Carlton,  near  Col  wick,  SlO. 

Carlton  upon  Trent,  855. 

Carletou  in  Lindrick,  57. 

Castles,  of   Notthighaio,    104;   of 

Newark,  SM, 
Caves  and  cellars,  at  Nottingham,  80, 

lOS  ;   in  Park^  114;  at  S^einton, 

153. 
Cbappel,  account  of  William,  285, 

383. 
ChesterBeld  Canal,  33. 
Chil  well,  187. 

Churches  at  Nottingham,  121. 
Clay  districts,  ft, 
Claworth,  303. 
Clifton  Hall,  IBt;  Grove,  183;  vil- 

Jage,  185. 
CU/twt,  North  and  South,  278. 
Chmaie,  19. 
Clipttone  Park,  385. 
Clumber  Park,  seat  of  the  Duke  of 

Newcastle,  358  to  367. 
Coddington,  245. 
Colston  Basset^  1^*07. 
Colwick  Hall,  210. 
Commerce  of  county,  35. 
Corlinstock,  or  Costock,  198. 
Coisal,  and  family  vault,  164. 
Cotton  mills,  :56. 
Country  seats,  16. 

Cranmer  family,  and  anecdotes,  219. 
Crcswcll  Crags,  371. 
CromwtUj  tbb, 

D. 

Darebeck  river,  31. 
Darwin,  Dr.  anecdotes  of,  849. 
Denthurpe,  275 
Divisions  of  county,  1. 
Drakelow  and  Tunnel,  302. 
Dunham,  or  Dunholme,  287. 

E. 

Earls,  6. 

Eatt  Bridgtford,  216;  ant iqui lies,  217. 

Entt  Leake,  193. 

Eastwood,  and  anecdotes,  163. 

£utoH,43T  Idleton,  314. 


Ecclesiastical  architecture,  43« 

Kdwnlton,  203. 

Edwinitow,  392. 

Egmanton,  and  anecdotes,  284. 

Eleanor,    Queen,   her    death,    and 

crosses,  280. 
Elton,  223. 

Elvattm,  or  Elston,  249. 
Environs  of  Nottingham,  158* 
Epcftton,  273. 
Erwash  river,  30. 
Estates  and  landed  property,  13. 
EvertoMp  30^. 
Extent  of  county,  1. 
Eykering,  271. 


Farms,  state  of,  24. 

Felley,  401. 

Feniun,  some  account  of  Sir  J<Am» 

46. 
Finning  ley,  and  anecdotes,  305. 
Fiikerum,  and  Ferry,  275, 
Fledburough.  286. 
Flintham,  248. 
FoRitr  OF  Sbsrwood,  4& 


Gameston,  292, 

Gedling,  and  anecdote,  211. 

General    Infirmary    at  NottioghaiBv 

129. 
Gonalston,  274. 
Gotham  and  anecdotes,  188* 
Granby,  224. 
Grantham  Canal,  32. 
Green  gown  given  to  a  nun,  279. 
OreytUy,  Church    and    Monuments, 

162. 
Gringtey  on  the  hiU,  307. 
Grove  Hall  and  village,  313« 
Gunthorpe,  274. 

H, 

Httbsthorpe,  311. 

Hailam,  272. 

Hallooghton,  and  ancient  Hall,  2>2. 

Hartibyt  and  Cross,  280« 

Hawton,  V46. 

Hay  ton,  301. 

Headon  Hall,  313. 

Ilcmlockstone,  167. 

Uexgrave,  and  Roman  Camp,  271. 

HicHifig^ 


^^^J^^^^^^^B^INDEX.               ^^^^^^^H 

^         ihthtiiig,  for. 

aiajiufaeiurca,  56,  15?.                      ^H 

^^^H             History  uf  counlj,  2. 

Mapperlcy,  160.                                   ^H 

^^H             HndsHck,  324. 

Blarktiam,  Klast  and  West,  tfifi. 

Marnham,  266. 

^^H            H«k)cn,WilUait».  D.  D  46. 

Mattcr^yand  Priory,  5^1. 

^^^^M             J{ulme,  near  Nen^ark,  ^i. 

MflUJi  river,  31. 

^^^H            H<i£nie  Ft>r/7r>i/t(  and  Huuse,  $11* 

Meden  river,  ib. 

^^^H             Honour  ot  l^eirerel,  160. 

JVIincralogy,  J6* 

^^^H              Hops,  aa  procfucej  f^. 

Mifterton,  scctafian  diapcla,  JOT, 

^^^H              Htiruej  account  of  TbornaSj  46. 

MoNUMSNTt  it  WoUattan,   166;  of 

^^^B             Hosiery  trnde  and  framcfi.  137. 

Ihe  Babyni^na  ai  lCing»t»o  ypwi. 

^^^B              Hover ittgkam,  971. 

Soar,  195;  Sir  Thomas    Parkju 

^^^B             Hiiughiun,  and  chiipel,  f  89. 

al   Boiiney,    2(K> ;  in   WillOu^by 

^^^ft             HottD&£DB  and  Pariihei,  Ida 

church,  fiJe;  io  Ho] me  rierpowt 

^H 

chorch,  «lf ;    at  Cfaworlh,  309; 

al  Radford  near   Worksop,  551  j 

^^^H             Idle  river,  Si  :  and  caoal,  35. 
^^^H             Improvemtttt^  1^4. 
^^^^H             In  closures  41. 

rustic  and  cpjyphs,  S9%,  S9% 

Mortimer's  hole,  107. 

.Mu!)iharoi,  North  and  SowtK  t&S. 

^^^^            Irelon^  account  of  Renry«  177. 

Mysscn,  and  curloui  accocry^  906w 

^^^H            Julia  of  Gaunt,  anecdote  of,  165* 

N, 

^^^H            iurisdicUou,  £ccle*iasi}caJ«  45. 

Nettlewonb,  S84. 

^H 

NfiwiRK,  ni  ;  hUtury,   mtcmtiiig 

anecdote^  clitircb.  iicgra,  SlC*  tsi^ 

^^m            Kelham,  and  Hall  ^.'>?. 

et  icq. 

^^m            KenathS?]. 

Nkwstkao  Arbey,  401, 

^^^B            Kimberiej  Aiid  cbapeli  165. 

fCorm,tntonuFOH*Soart  l95» 

^^m             King  ind  Mdtcr  of  Mansfield.  50, 

^^B 

Xnrth  CoiUngh^tm,  t?7. 

^^^1            King  john'»  house.  5fi5. 

North  of  Treat,  t. 

^^m         KiHouUcH,  tor. 

Norwood,  !^76. 

^^^B            King-^ion  u|Hjn  Soar.  19^. 

NoTTiNoiiAMsaiRa.^^itoatioo^  •»• 

^^H            KirAbif  ill  dMhftdd,  400. 

tent,  diviiioris,  1;  history^  f-  Bri- 

^^M             Kirkthigtoii  Hull,  ¥71. 

tiih  antiqiiitiet,  5  ;    Koman   aniK 

^H 

quitic'v  4;  Roman  roada>  5;  earU, 

6;   estate*  and   faoded    property. 

^^^H           Lnce  tnannfactdrers,  57. 

13;     rcJigioDs    foundntioui,    14; 

^^^H             Land<;d  property »  15. 

titles   15;  seats*  16;  cTimne,  19; 

^^^B             LNngarund  llaJJi  23fd. 
^^^H            LiiKton^  or  Lciington,  $1(5* 

soil  nnd  surface.  tO;  produce,  fa  ; 
tcnurcj,   «5 ;  rent*,   ib  ;    roriKTV 

^^^B            Lene  riv«r,  51,  118. 

Jogy.  f6)  riverf,  77  j  cvnoh,  5f  j 

^^^^H            Xeitronand  Priory>  179,  181. 

roadi,  54  ;  cu«jiiit  rce.  55  ;  manu- 

^^^H            J.tvtrtout  Nortli  anii  Suulli,  51?. 

factnrcs,     56  ;     popolation,     57  ; 

^^^H            Linby,  4(>6. 

poor's  ratei,  58 ;    iuclotnrei,  41  j 

^^^B            Liltleboruugli,  3(>9. 

improveiiipur^    4^  ;     architecture. 

^^^H            Litdge  upnfi  {he  Woldv  f05. 

4^  i  ecclesiastical  Architecture,  aii-          . 

^^^H           J^ord  I^ovt^J,  anecdote  of,  252, 

cicnt  sepulchral   niirQuuients  loo- 

^^^H            Lunatic  ajjliUDj  13 L 

logy,  43;    Parliamcotary    history^ 

^^H 

44 ;  ecclesiastical  jurisdict  ion,  ij ; 

^^^B           Making  ba^inc»»,  50 

cooniy  hiogruphy,   46?    forest  «*f 
Sherwood,  48  ;  Rubm  Hood,  67. 

^^H           MANftfiLLD,  oiigin>2^c.  5lC.  574>  et 

NoTTiKGHAAi   TowN,    appronch  IO, 

^^H 

'*f>t  dcrivatioo  of  name,   78  ^  an-^ 

^^B           kantjiild  Woadhimt',  S?$, 

CK'iit  hiitory,  7»,  ^jjives  aad  ceW 

lift, 

INDEX. 


Un,  80  ;  Ho  man  hbtory,  82  ; 
Saxon  bi!Storjf  83 ;  comparBlive 
value  of  land,  &4 ;  geneml  lijs> 
lory»  8Jp  ♦  siege  hy  the  Mcrcinnf^ 
86 ;  de«tructJon  bv  fire,  BT  ;  sei*^ 
«are  of  Mortimer,  88  ;  Purliamcn- 
tary  anccdoiCj  89  ;  extruoTJlmiiTj 
tempest,  90 ;  it*indafd  ot  Clkailc* 
I.  set  up,  91;  walei  S|*out,  93; 
modern  evenu,  95 ;  local  topo- 
graphy^  9fi ;  stluatiua  and  extent, 
97  I  ancient  wnlb  and  gates,  9S  ; 
streets,  10 1 J  castle,  lOI ;  barracks 
116;  cavc&,  U4  ;  Standard  In  1 1> 
117  ;  eccte«iasticul  tliviiiurt*,  ITl  ;, 
St.  Mary's  churcbj  If  I  ;  religious 
fouadatJuD!^,  It^j;  tPcUmii  cha- 
pelsj  I3u;  public  clmruicf,  li7j, 
wnr^iJioiisei,  1«8;  infirmary,  129; 
JtinmtiL- »i3  tuni^  tJlj  public kUooIs, 
152^  cuuiity-ltalJ,  133;  [owij-Jinll, 
ib,;  coQoty  and  town  gaols,  134  ; 
market- pi  ace,  135  j  nes^  exchange, 
136;  f4ir»j  ib* ;  trade  imd  inattu- 
factores,  iS7  ;  popufaiion,  159; 
anecdote*  of  longerit^,  IJO;  rue* 
teorologlcai  ubser ration i,  1 1'i  ; 
atate  of  poor,  143 ;  preicnC  stale, 
144;  ThurUnd-hall,  &c.  1-15;  sup- 
ptici  of  water,  of  coals  ,Sfc.  146; 
ttaie  of  society  atid  miiu*enienls, 
147;  proverbs,  14^V;  St.  Atiiu^  » 
Well,  ate.  151  ;  municipal  history, 
153  ;  Part  i« men  til  r^  right»^  IdS  ; 
biography,  156. 
Niitbalj,  andauccdote*,  161. 

O. 

01dh:»m,  the  poctj  tJ8. 
OUertm ,  SOU, 
Orchil rd5,  f3. 
Or«/ia^/,  314. 
Osberton  Hooie,  316. 
0»»ingrm  Hall,  SSS. 
Oswnldibec,  5C>7. 
OwtborpL'  Hali,  «05. 
Oiton,  lontuli  there,  3,  406* 

Paleihorpe,  37S 
Fapplewick,  40d. 
Parishes  in  the  county,  l.*V8. 
Parliamcitiary  hi^torv,  44, 
Pevcrel  Court,  I60. ' 
PifiutstiiJiift,  modernj  In  forest,  fi4* 
Pleaaley,  romantic  scenery,  593* 
Pbugb,  account  of  John/l66. 
yoot  and  ratet,  3B, 


PopuUtion,  37. 

PonTRAiTB — of  WiHougbby  family, 
in  ;  Sir  Hui?h  Wlllooghby,  17« ; 
Ncl»  Gwynoc,  IHt  ;  Henry  VlIL 
Stl ;  Jeffer}  Hudson,  3Sf  ;  Mary, 
Queen  of  Scot*,  Cittheriae  of  At- 
ragon,  Norfolk  f&aiily,  339  ;  Earli 
of  Arundel,  34(>,  34I3  at  Rufford 
Abbey,  387,  et  sect . 

Produce  of  county,  J2f . 

Radeitfftt  upon  Sour,  194, 

on  Trent,  ti^, 

Uedfitrd  near  Worksop,  Abbey -gate, 
ancient  church,  &c.  3'27* 

Uttttlmtit  near  NotlinghaiD,  16Si 

RftTupion,  3\'L 

Keligrous  louridatlon!*,  14^  ^f^* 

iltm)titonct  198. 

Kent*  ut  county,  ?5. 

Rbtford,  Eoit  and  Wttt,  t93,  30O, 

RtVRM,  il7. 

Roads,  34v 

Pki^hin  Hood's  bills  S» 

— >_—  chair,  4. 

Roni^f  Hoott,  history  ot\  &c.  67. 

Rriritan  mv|ii|ui(ies,  4. 

ftoman  ro^id^i,  X 

Roman  villa  discovered,  396« 

Romantic  scenery  of  Shorwood  Fo- 
rt* t,  5'2  ;  a  I  Pleastey,  'J93, 

lindfiiuglon,  20%, 

RuFrono  Aaa£V,  386. 

S, 

Scufdung  Moor  and  Inn,  281. 
Scenery  ofSberivood  Forest,  57» 

Serwfty,  3if5. 

Seiit»  of  iounry,  15. 

Sectarian    chapela     at    Nottingham, 

H6. 
SepulchrMl  monuments,  JMicicnt^ 
Serlby  HaH,  3v'8. 
Stfr{f'>fd,  '/1 5. 
Sijkhitooo  FoRitT,  48. 
Sherwood  Hall,  384. 
Sibthor(>r,  848. 
S'lV  rniNs,  37. 
Situalioij  of  county,  1, 
Surttitout  cavea  at,  I5f# 
So;»r  river,  30. 
Soi^  and  surface,  20. 
South  ColtinghuJi»,  377. 
South  of  Trent,  2, 
SowT«wFLL.     Church,     antiquities, 

itc.  255,  ^0, 

Stajt. 


INDEX* 


Sta.»(!ard  irill,  117. 

Stmifurd  aud  H<iU,  1^, 

Sutiuion^    Mnjior  ud    HmH,    t46 ; 

Stnuiituu  in  tliC  VVwhJ**  50*. 
Stut>U/,'rd  iirid  11  nil,  i7i$. 
Siernc.  Hichaitl,  D.  D.  48. 

Stoci.uig  tr«dc,  137. 

htokf  hjf  Stwiirk,  And  b«ule,  ?504 

Siratfu^,  diaractei  yfLutdi  17,\ 

Strcllcy*  t64. 

Slreliuii^  5U9. 

Stittoti  Bonington,  196. 

Sutton  in  AsUneld,  400. 

:»utlua  u[)ou  Trciii,  ^76* 

r, 

TcnuTM  of  cponty,  23, 

Ti(onf&DY»    »e4i  of    Earl  Mi»overt> 

:ji>b,  3?o. 
Tliwniejr,  y79. 
TI*rum|*ton-hall,  187* 
'i'hufgttnon,  27  J, 

I'oUcrtnii-liiill,  f03. 
TnKKT  llirin,  «?, 
luiHiU^  176. 

i*pper.  Of  Over  Brottghtoti^  ii09, 
l*phm,  n«dt  Souili*rrll,  v7i». 


Wakefield,  accouot  of  Gilbert,  l 

WatkejingKam^  307. 

Walling  Wttlli.  371. 

IVii rif»p  cLurcb  and  feir,  373. 

TVtLntca  AoaAr«  349,  518- 

Weld,  a9  product^  fS* 

W€st  Bridgtfard,  203. 
Wtit  UaU,  195. 

W7*ffle/rv,  NiJrtK  and  Soulb.  509. 
White,  H.  R.  notic«oJ*   J 3?* 
IV'fif;>rd  church,  18'^, 
W(  fill  ugh  by  br^>ok.  ^09. 
IVHiffughtf^  ,m  the  Wold,  ti>9* 
WitiCKbounte,  *70. 
Winrhtirftf  a  Hit  Hnll,  »M* 
Wi«e  Men  of  Goiliam,  188. 
Wisetofi-halt  and  improvcmeati«  I 
Wirerton  and  rtiitis  Sf4i» 
WolJan  nvcf,  31- 
Wfkilaton^  church,  &c.  Id6. 
WoLLATOK  Hall,  167. 
Wofrdborough,  <7.». 
Wnnatiop,  and  vicinity,  3f6, 
WormsopM^yOR,  3S6-    S49k 


3Soolugjr  uf  fouotj,  AS* 


ERRATA. 


UMe, 


from  lifttlnm.  for  **  E«*in?h«in,*'  rend  **  F:fif*eham*^ 

q  anrt  10,  ttiP  ftnul  lHt«nt  wAnt  |o  be  Mipplicd* 

It  dvW  •'  a»"  bt'fore  ♦•  Uudi/' 

4  for  "  •gfjoortfu,**  te*d  •*  a^ttocvin,'* 

1*  from  )>ourvm.  Inr '*  Arn^u-ircli,**  r<fad  *•  JnTwiteh.^ 

|0  ftoviii  Intltonif  for  '*  olijrct,'*  icsiii  •*  <*/||^^tfjs-*' 

Q  dete  Ihr  comfntb  <ificr  *'  StniHwUh,"  and  in^mt  U  after 

1  tn>eri  a  f  at  tlir  end. 

fi  fill  *•  wiite,"  ri-fid  '*  •ri»t.'* 

(5  from  ImUnii)   '*  tcfmrjite  ihc  word» '•  forest"  and  •*  the/* 

p  fmm  bntirihir  fo»  **  Jf^,"  rrad  **  «." 

9  fi*f  ♦■  »»,'*  ro*nl  •*  •>«»  " 

4  from  buUom,  *etmi'ate  "  age,"  «nd  **  of.** 
iaU  ill  *'  uatutMtioir'^fiele  Ihe  (t. 

.1  insert  H  beforu  **  culled  *• 

«0  alter  •*  ruu"  tniwn  b  comma. 

19  fui  »•  tin  s.*'  rend  "  efrit/* 

5  from  bnttuin.  l«f '*  come,"  rrad  *'  <*owi»»if.* 

S  fKnn  bollom  of  ihc  noli*,  for  •*  pnc^t,*'  read  **  pri§»t$^ 

iCt  for"  wuti,*'  rend  '*  mnH/* 

la»l  of  the  note:,  ^*r  **  cnnorund,**  rend  **  eem/bund." 

Irt  fur  •*  Kej/l^^oilli,"  rrud  *'  iuf^«»rfA" 

?  Iniert  a  tSn.il  x 

4  from  boUiuii,  "  ^K  it  on  fire,"  read"  t«  va«  iel  4»n  ll?r** 

|«  for  *'  lhe*i*."  lertd  "  fA*rf/* 

jy  for  •♦  |*U3  wi;;,"  rend  •'  iwrfpmjr-" 
for  ♦'  LHmbeth,"  itod  »•  Lnrnhftf,'* 


elo 


'  jr«»/<<*»4/»afli  ParA;.' 


f  ihe  IMiiles  of  »'  Cave*,"   in  iHi*  CfMinty,  Ibf   ••  Si;irtal«ll|*  J 


LE LiL