Commercial plant propagation; an exposition of the art and science of increasing plants as practiced by the nurseryman, florist and gardener

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Copyright N°

COPYRIGHT DEPOSIE

PS 6 6 6 6 i 6 6 6 i 6

PLANT CULTURE

By GEORGE W. OLIVER. Propagator to the Bureau of Plant Industry,
U. S. Department of Agriculture, Washington, D. C.

THIRD EDITION

In this enlarged and revised edition Mr. Oliver gives the teachings
gleaned and sifted from his experience as a practical working gardener,
supplemented by that gained through many years in his specialty of plant
propagating for the United States Department of Agriculture at Washington.
He not only deals with those plants which are cultivated by the commercial
florist, gardener and nurseryman for profit, but treats as well on the care and
management of a diversity of other plants which are all interesting, but which
do not generally receive the full or proper attention at the hands of authors
Tells in language easily understood by the
average reader the essential points in the methods of raising and caring for

Landscape Gardening, arcnitecture 1ur une Cuuncry \sAlouses, Bunga-
lows, Barns, Garages, Gates, Garden Furniture, etc.), Flowers,
Plants, Trees, Shrubs, Vines, Perennials, the Farm, Agriculture,
Soils, Domestic Animals, Dairying, Poultry, Bees, Birds, Butterflies,
Fertilizers and Manures, Plant Diseases and Remedies, Insect Pests
and Specifics, Indoor Games and Outdoor Sports, Boats, Motors,
Camping, Cook Books, and the 1001 subjects treating on life in the
country and suburbs, send for our DESCRIPTIVE CATALOG OF
COUNTRYSIDE BOOKS. Mailed free.

titles, the contents of each book being carefully summarized.

A. T. DELA MARE CO. inc. 448 W. 37th St., New York

It contains hundreds of

Plants
ods

Propagation by
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COMMERCIAL
PLANT
PROPAGATION

Copyright, 1918,
A. T. DELA MARE CO., Inc.
All righis reserved

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YL J]AA|L\ JAIL A| LIAL L| MA MALL ALLELES
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= PROPAGATION
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®&, AN EXPOSITION OF THE ART eS,
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®, PLANTS AS PRACTICED BY ew,
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Si OHIO STATE UNIVERSITY He,
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QQ@QOGOOGO@ LOEB OB@}yBEO#OS

PREFACE

1 BOOK of this kind necessarily is a record of various
opinions covering the ways of propagating plants. It
4 is not a report of a discovery or discoveries, but a com-
" pilation of methods. Men have come to realize that every
advancement in the art or science of doing things is for the benefit
of not only themselves but for the good of all men.

Each book considers the subject matter from a different angle.
This book attempts to briefly explain the art and science of in-
creasing plants so that the florist, orchardist nurseryman, and
amateur plant lover may have a guide for properly increasing his
stock.

_ “There is no reason why every farmer, if he so desires, may not
propagate all the fruits necessary for his own garden and orchard,”
writes W. L. Howard. ‘Such work can be done at little or no
expense and, besides, it is pleasant and interesting.”

The author acknowledges credit to all who, through their wide
experience, have written of plant propagation, and especially to
Thomas Meehan and George W. Oliver, both pre-eminent in
their fields of nursery and greenhouse propagation. Credit is due
Dr. L. H. Bailey for crystallizing the scattered information pul
lished in the ‘“Nursery Book”’ of 1891.

_ The author welcomes suggestions and advice relating to the
subject matter of this book to the end that when a new edition
becomes necessary it may have increasing value. i

ALFRED C. HOoTrss.
Columbus, Ohio, December, 1917.

FER II 19/8

©Oc.a481681

mo, \

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS

SSQHE ability to grow and multiply is characteristic of all
fA life. The object of the life of every plant is to perpetuate
SS its kind.

Flowers bloom with color and perfume in order that
they may better produce their seeds. Plants spread their stems in
the air and in the soil in order to dominate the earth as much as
possible.

«Darwin realized this struggle for existence and concluded that
every fragrance, color, spine, tuber and adaptation contributes
toward the natural ability of the plant to live.

Nature eliminates the weak; overwhelming those which cannot
stand the cold or heat, those susceptible to attacks of insect and
fungus and those which can not compete with their neighbors in
reproductive powers.

Man shelters his favorites from the cold; improves their natural
multiplication; supplies them with proper soil and the environment
of their natural homes, places them on stronger roots and even
crosses them to make combinations to his fancy. He produces the
large fruits and the double flowers at the expense of seed produc-
tion but he supplies another means of existence for the plant.

Men have noted how through accidents the tops of plants
become broken and root to form a new individual; how, when roots
are cut, often a new plant grows from them; how clumps of plants are
broken up and each part produces a good plant; how trees rub
against each other and are naturally grafted. Men have merely
imitated Nature. A careful study of a plant will indicate its
method of propagation.

There are two considerations in the propagation of plants:
the art, and the science. The art is the craft or ability to multiply
plants; the science tells why each operation is done. One is the
practice;.the other the theory. Each helps the other.

The gardener learns much from doing, but books lead him to see
the reasons for his practice.

CONTENTS

PE eier a. ew. 2 Yuchode Seas coa ee veh dae ns ee 4
IINTRODUCTORS FRLEMARKS? .. 6.02 Sues ds 3 ee 5
(GEOR RAT UNDE >. Wee! aa. s ae aie ee sees cee 7-8
innnx ro PLANT ANAMES: Mile oS occa. ba ce ee oe 9-15
innex TO ILGUSTRATIONS :-...00. 5 pes. oc 5 15-16
GeAPren-[-—SBEDS fs os ce Se wes bas 3 oe a 17
Guaprer TESACurvinGs. 5.408333 os ae eee AT
CHaptTer ITI—Butss, Layers, Divisions.............-. 65
GHapren TV——GRarrAaGe a: 6) fio. ss Beal 2S See 84.
CHaprer .V—Frurr STocks®.... 523s. 0 ee ons it
CHAPTER VI—A Frew CommerciAL Fiorists Puants..... 119
CHAPTER VII—HerBaceous PERENNIALS, ANNUALS AND
Burpous PRANts. 6 oo a ee ee 139
Cuaprer VILI—Tree anp Sarus List... 25... .... eae 142

CHAPTER “TX-——Book List? 2... 8S. 2S eee 179

GENERAL INDEX

Page
Deets MISE OL. yee es ee 140
Pear SGCdS: ..2.).-.-.. ea 23, 24
OTT Ie ee 99
OMNES thes. . sce eae 100
DEP GMHeGT Tbe: cis. eee ws 100
<5 See eee 8 99
ae RI ee 97
Rie et ko eS 2 ao ee 65
Pemmerseierm, .. 2. to ee Le 71
Peles Gerned |... 5. bs Calis 65
ol Po Se eee reas nat
Meee is ete Esk. 84
selection of wood............ 89
Conifers from-seed... 005." 5 5. . 36
Memapie-Off, OF sei) i ks 8 ae
RTRTIES 909 ca ahs es Ss, Seas, 3 58
2 SEE re ee 74
er es. te Lx Ys, Ge 4

Cuttings, evergreen............ 58
GnIStS ests... soe atk 08

“OTE SATs Ss 56
ct 2) SURE Sie, bali are 58
LD LE Se eA ota tear gee ata 60
mallet.. 58
“eine lt) i; 2) oie ee a 54
PARR EEIEE Re Se de stew ese 's 52
THOSE. ee 63
sand and water method for ae
EMME EES toes saltcs cha «.s « sofa 58
MERE OGE yee ls. eS 48
Lemperabure for... tel. be 51
Damping-off, conifers.......... ay
SO) (EL) 1 a 51
eiarriere Ss ee . S ee 65
SEAT espera fan ioeec! 5 4 wld 123
MeremniIgits. + 40.78 es ee 83
Pia rere ss ke 108
Evergreens, broad leaved, from
eM ait. 2 ea ee acai e 38
Ln pS ee ee 58
PerapiNe-Ol Ol. ost... i. 6 oes S44
TDG 02 2) Me ee ee 36
USO GSS S16 1 i rr me 124
PREM He ee 8.5 et eck eS uate ane 135
collecting spores.......:..... 121
7 E07 1 a oC aa gms 123
getting new varieties......... 123
MESH. 82. <-. se whos cu kee ee 120
TN EGTOC SESE Ai aetna ee gt 124
SUL MOSS ee Sees eee cine £22
Seamare bua Clo" kas ybae « Ecicne 122
SPEDAPIAESMEEE So ha oo te wa 125
POMMDEUPES. oo. Socks ss hoe bes 125
Sp LS Se ee eee are 125
Flats for seeds.. aed ee BA
Florists’ Lists, cuttings ee ey ds 53
Sg oe a a eee i ene as
Riper, Bee 57

Page
Germination of seeds...... 17, 27-29
special treatments for........ 29
CratinaVOrus xii el noe Bad 87
Grafting, bridge we. 24 6h. 2208. 94
Gaia 8 oe ray co ee See 109
Glebe ss 2 teats Co SA eee 91
GrOWillhrs 6 35 Ae Se eee 95
hirniedal...!s,co si. fox aan eee ae 87
MOTCEIS Usk Shs aw aoe ee oe 85
TESUL GS cia ces ancien emer noe 85
LOOKG Ss te Ae ee 91
21004 Lt ee Ren pene FL nee FA 94
Sige es EUS Ot Ween aise 93
RONGE on GA ghee wo eee ate 93
Perarevms) ates a cae hove aie SS nS 97
COMMUG so yc eis att Ean et 89
18) OS ee MND ea RE ee gl eS 108
VENEER ois. De eee 92
WHS eso Se PO 5 oe ee 89
Ged bite wax... SRR ie Seo 109
AOC ic 1k i Ble 7 ST alae 102
hatvers. dir. Or POt. oe o eee 78
hanese. 3 .5.- ¢ 2:1) ee eeeee ele 78
Gontinmious<.i\.; > ease 78
TVUGON ee aoe .)'s 5 Pe 80
preparing stock for.......... 78
serpentine or compound...... ar
SIT 37 @1 Sok SNe ea ROR ae Re, B® 9 is
FEDS... (ORC ais eie Res. Si aes 77
top OL 1eans... v. >... Shenton 125
ieleh 2nd: seeday oe oo PT ae. oo
Longevity of seeds............. 19
PHIRPEHS 5 Hoos a Vice: As Sd eo 76
Onion multipliers... ..0. 02 ae. ee
potato PRE 51 ee MES, DANN ell Fs wn
Pedivreed stocks: 20600). 95.20. Me
Perennials, cuttings of ......... 54
MULVISIOITN GEL. 5 ox ee) Loe, EE 83
SING: heen ak hua ony Le ee 139
sorts propagated by seed...32, 33
SPM APOO fe oo 2 oe en ol
Pets tag Seeds 3504 . oo vcs oho 24
BOURSES Ses ac che 2 Yo ei ecscdiw Sars 120
i metateee 2 ie cs a eS ee 80
FURR a ts. hoe Sen Stn ees 80
Seed, acid treatment........... 30
FURIE MEPEEN Giese Ss cho cai lac 2 cx aS 2D
Eo Si) Coils wis Ate ie i geal a Ae . 30
GRMN ct coke Pt Ie te ae} are 36
GEM hO sew os ole 20
SOTMUINATIOM:. . ops. 2 ae 17, 27-29
Grandmother’s method of sow-
BEES RRONS Ft. 8, i, < :) cadanepee nn ee 26
IGHEOVIES 6) ob ssi" EE we 19-21
Hot breedimes true... see. vs
SPN) a Ra ee Diem) de eae a 41
SCS sero aa ele Ren A) Tg A 36
PET cs Sie ee tae eee oe 34

8 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

Pag

Seed soaking... .; aera 29
SO WAM oe ee eee) nas 5 as ee Pipa PAG.
Pestine . Feeeo =. eee ee a 21
CECCE ic, Seeeees tes ce 2s) et 34
WabOritiemee <<: SeAMBlalsos 5 = 2a
Seedling; warren.) 4 wae oo S5 102
Shrubs; fromseed..... 2s. .. . «+ 1384
hardwood euttings.....::..0. 56
Summer eubumes:.: 22. .°.65 55 56
Soll for SGGdsiaee ep.0ss 2. ees Cae 24
SOL. G2 ees | ee eee 120
Sporaneia.. sl Seen wus. ce Fee 120
Shocks» ApPlere cstt sn ths ules s Lee a3
EOPICO USS ctie oy Stee ini hee 113
characteristics of good........ 88
OWEREV Seas 0 kOe as Se Likes
LEU Een on SE eee 111
Pade AS Mist. Sth eict Acs oe cee 113
Page

Bevery. Hl .. b. iisecneh cs eee ea eee 29
ipaliour, Ls. Bayley.2. .....¢6n' 59, 63
Apaley.,. Lis Tsieees Fe ea eh. 2 oe 85
Baltet, Chartered a6 ice. oes 85, 97
Beadle, CADW iS se eee 137
Beeker, -Wilhiama. ) 0h... estan 110
Bois, D Be I St. os SAR are: 88

Burpee, W. A., Co., seed sowing. 26
Conard & Jones Co., Germination

dBi 6]: shy A a en Ts a 28, 29
COville) Hey Vars.on. see eee ae L772
Craig, AVN oo ih Ren renee 26
reer “EA. Une. 5 cayeteoi eee 19-21
Rarer ANG Oss neha oes severe 88, 161
Galloway wos ee ers eee 138
(Gaod. son, Meas =i. .5 «5s 5 Oe ileal
Hartley and. Pierce: 28 > 405. sc 37

Page
Stocks,..Pears): 3...) oe 113
pedigreed... >... ii. 1.3 eee 113
Plumas. se s2.. ccc: etn eae 113
ROS@.254 feeb a os nea 131
Suckers, “ic 2. takes: i ee 76
Temperature for seed sowing I?
‘Tree-seeds.; .. sc. 5 «Sa bee
‘Tuberous: To0ote).2...) 4 3a eee 74
‘Tubers, ferns: ..i2.....5:.eee 125
perennials. >. 55. ase res)
Vegetables, longevity of seed.. 21
pollinating Soros apeterae? Ce _ 46
time tO SOW=.>. icc). 2 ee 23
Viabilityof seed.) 2.) cena 18
Wardian Case... «.255 [eee Hy.
Watering seeds... .:.. 12 aeneeae 27
Wax, grafting... ..... “4.2 Seeeeee 109

Page
Hatfield, T:D..:.;22...82325e a7.
Hedrick, U:. P=22. 2. 97, Hsth7
Jenkins, J.... .34, 152, 158
Lager, John Eo ee 126
Meehan, Joseph....... 37, 116, 154,
bese 159, 163, 166

Montgomery, Alexander........ 134
de Muelder, Fred. :... «2.00 67
Mulford, F. Gus oe eee 137

19, 31, 149; G2,
103, 136
= 37

Oliver, George W..,

Pierce and Hartley...

Shore, Robert:: .. .... "eee 52
Thompson, Charles H;;. 4 41
Trillow, William... 2.2.2 eee 57
Wood, Henry. ...... 233 eee 95

INDEX OF PLANT NAMES

Page Page Page
JAN] OY Wire aig a 142 Amelanchier.......:...143 Asparagus..........<2.. 32
UNDIES ee desi eie ernie shies SO. a eAIMOnp hanes eure 144, “AsSperulars « «cs eww ales 139
Abutilon.. ot os 142) Amorphophallus..). 2-25 14a Asp hodelusiine mars oo 139
cuttings. . : 53 Ampelopsis. . 2.144 Aspidistr®. «153.0% cha. 82
longevity of seed... 20 longevity of seed. . 20) eASpleniuirmn) ieee 125
Acacia cuttings.. ya RANI SO TITAS ccs isre!s ose ees "139 Aster... .0s ction aay 44 eo
Acalypha cuttings. . .. 53 Amygdalus.. P64: “Aster: China? 140
NC AUMUMOP MORNIN, 5 2 1. eae PAMANAS . 4.0 ore eins sible oom 76 longevity of seed. 20
NCE 0) 1c Se ee Lis OR MAMAC MTS Bierinciny obeys 16 Sees 139 BOW WIG ouicts wrad teckel e
CUVASEOM: .fre0% hace ats aul longevity of seed.. 20 MAS tilber tsar s ncleeee LL 169
NGG aac eee oe 142 root cuttings......... 64. “Aubrietiar 9. o. ee ee 139
Achillea. See IER Os Be 139 Andromeda..... Boy od la PANIC as -areene oem une 144
CVASIONs 5 Sats. ce ynhveeie 83 Anemone, perennial. 64, 139 GWOHINESs.t40, 2.8 cee OS
longevity of seed. . 20 DUlbOUS ass oe ol Ale AGriculain sc -sros atae 139
Foot cuttings...) 05; 64 longevity of seed.... 20 longevity of seed..... 20
PNGINITMNETIES ing oe cet teks alley 141 Angelica, JOR exaty / "of Avaledyen as. 59, 144
Bab CubtiMesen... os .s5 61 seed .. 21 Babiana ne oua.'s Gee clo tae 141
PAC OTUNGUITN G3) 0! ica lo f= 139 Anomatheca.. . 444J42 SBalloon Vine :..sceee 20
AGHLMISHa Aas nol loo Anthemis.s..0... <5 lo. 13 Oe Rallgam sf a5 einen 140
Acroclinium ..... .140 Anthericum........... 76 longevity of seed.... 20
longevity of seed. . 20) Antholyzas...2.)..- 74, 141 time toisOw. ../. 2 deine 24
Js \GUEETE Ne "139 Anthurium, rhizomes. ...82 Banana. ..ccse .. coos 76
NCUIMIGIA 6 cupesls 6h te LAS SUCKERS aa aes ten V6.0 (Batista actin sae 139
Sena JSR Hal ete 143 Antirrhinum.. ee retin 2 00) longevity of seed.. 20
Adiantum. . aerate cuttings. . : ey 04: Ba4nDpenueerietar 34, 57, Ads
POMS ei tes eld LoD longevity of seed..... 20 Bartonia, sowing. . é
PANTAGES te hes dicts cuss eee 126 time to sow for outside 32 Basswood.......... + BAS 17 i
PRISCUMIStisiciacr. ose 143 time to sow for green- Batchelor’s Button..... 23
Aap anc huIs)se. «<a>: 141 MOUSGHe «te a eee 24 Bay, Woblollyens... 6.35% 153
(N@a Grea CUUbINES «2 ss) Oo A PIOS, sg ee.c sles oeeerate 141 Sweet. csi ne eonlak
PE eats aca sails ate) aaette 76 Aponogeton from seed. 31 Bean, Indian.......... 147
GENER. > e ee l40 Apple. .... 2. . 60s 34 a0 UGG Beeehe. Jc se see 34,1152
cuttings....... Sao CTAD 26 wa.c menew oe eR Blue, aes 2k Sag
longevity of f seed, ee PAO) dwarf.. .113 Begonia Evansiana. . 66
sowing. DPE oe Oe stocks, collecting s seed. 111 Spray Ss eee ee uieNere 66
Aglzonema. . aay eS Le ‘SOWINg....... Palglat longevity of seed.. 20
Agrostemma. . eS: ASPTICOU hearst shats Wak iui o ohio e 113 Lorraine group, cut-
longevity of seeds.... 20 Pawo (bill Fevea ts Nampa: mae Fae RE 139 (Hud eI. Giaigee 53, 61
Agrostis, doneerity of longevity of seed..... 20 LETS ate eee leg Mees 60
seed.. ZOMATADI Ge ectoer 89 semperflorens, sowing
Ailanthus.. ods 44, % 6, 143 cuttings. . Sa mrere Trays BECULnndon Gaeeeeee
PASROIGEY i 4 Sienna 139 longevity of seed. . 20 TUDETOUSs cae ieee oped
CUGUINE Sine icc a pars oles; Sam ATA Acer enh) iste a pid Mellie oo. hoo es Foo Wao
Alkebiae 252.04. 5...2.-143 Araucariaccuttings:. ....: 53 longevity of seed..... 20
GULUIMMS\a as aside SOO WO be AEDOT Valse ci cL OM OO lg lo ME eMIZOIMn eon alae it tes eae LAA:
PUIG ZA Se oe es a leon PAT DULUScsnccmn. cuascd4e’ Berbers; sos. 7204; D1; 145
GTR REESE msoen) oc ott cca 4) A UOLIS! ac. eer ul.) BR ESsere oro care ose tue 141
Wahine ear ae. Bhs) atte 150 time to sow......... DAROMSOT GL Banks oacasaieks pie es 145
Allamanda eubtner .... 53 Ardisia sowing. . Ole DLENONTARA ise ae eee 145
Allium . Sere cal CULTS 25-1) eee OOM illberoiaicnte + yaad oe 76
Allspice, Wald) ts ck WAASPIATOG Bes che ietays SS - ctene res 32 Birch.. Le OF LAS
Whimeses 254 he eieesay eau AMenaraa cts. cusue oe Mba 139 Blackberry, ‘root cut-
PAMETIN OTR! tos vsnc eis gversueed css 164 Argemone.............140 GUNS ety, eae sta 64, 146
INOS eee ae ABS sATisceniaes aeic c- aork 74, 141 seed treatment....... 30
JNCVOR ISS CS ee Hoole ATMETION ee. «ee oo mblagder Nut.s>...c.2ne69
ANTEC NOYE(0 (2) aos an 140 divisions. . Op bladc.erve Odean aloo
Aloysia cuttings.. eS) Eee © of seed. 20) MBLOOMENIA escent 141
PMisombalaee: oth. cetcen Sr eACEM Geena ces telss ove et caAso Blueberry (see Vaccin-
Alstroemeria...........141 Artemisia........ Ce 139 ium)
Alternanthera cuttings.. 53 Artichoke, Jerusalem... 75 Bocconia.............. 139
7a el Oi: et ee Sipolooer lod) Agu ee 2 on 74, 82, 141 longevity of seed..... 20
PARVUM hic,:7 52s i opeceest ear 2 ave N39) GAmiN Gols.) 35s. ee ealeetae 139 root cuttings........ 64
longevity of seed.. 20 Asclepias.......... 54, 139. Boltonia.....54, 76, 83, oe
GI; TO. SOWA 2 « har a Pls AON) sik Ripe nee ea oe): leeetayy lop aeel sone: tloyae ot.ite Oa te
Amaranthus........... 140 Mountain...........169 Boston Ivy.. . 34, laa
longevity of seed..... 20 IPTUGH Sos. Salata 178 Bougainvillea ‘cuttings. oS
ATMS VTS este Ss, s, Gcvecd ote PAA stra ect sostean tek: 76, 144 Boussingaultia...... (a141

9

10 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

ap Pe Page Page

Bouvardia cuttings. . 53.9 Ganaltaecae ef ohne 141 Cineraria, Tone of

FOOCULIINES see 64 Eronnnseecans a teen 29 REG! 1%. Cons. «6 aaa
IBOxtlree rakes 6o a 146 longevity of seed..... 20 sowing. : te
Brachycome, i. ss. 4: 140 rhizomes............ 82 Cinnamomum (See Cam-

longevity of seed. . 20 R@aracana .2 se eee 146 phora)

SO Wath ore a cs Seats 24 Carludovica.. ...... 388 Cinquefoil, shrubby... .164
Bridal Wiekths ..169 Carnation, cuttings. . 119) CisGustecs) ae fee 149
Briza, longevity of seed. 20 longevity of seeds... 20 Citrusiz.:..4 «.- .104, 149
Brodiva....o) Gees (41 Carpinus eee oor (147 Cladrastis.......... 64, 149
Broom: Scotch: ates lol Canyai-. eae eee eee 147 Clarkdale ec ee eee 140
Broussonetia A ee 44 Caryopteris.. 5 allBt9), ake br/ longevity of seed..... 20
Browalliatvetnns cose TAO MCassiainc= os ann eros 139 time tosow: «yee 24

longevity of seed..... 20 longevity of peed Me 20 Clematis..........139, 149
Bryophyllum, leaf cut- G@astaneder ces be lad internode cuttings...... 48

EGS eae iste Eien usec 62 Castanopsis . 56 fete ek ania 147 longevity of seed..... 20
Buckeyes eno oss 143, 162 Castor Bean, sowing Cleomes: s:2 s-) eee 140

INiexadeanee an siya: 172 {Ne eee OS longevity of seed..... 20

Spanish:...s:..024. 172° Catalpa......1..4 84147 »Clerodendron’. ..o-ae- 149
Buckenew Commons “167 Catananche-.-..-.) sok 1895 \Clethrac. <2 see 150

Sea.. Wile acne lod) sCattleyancan eae er 126m Clumntonia ayes 139, 141
Buddleia....... 200n bol46 \Cesnothuss. o4-eene 147 i Cliviat |. i236. seas eee 141
Buffalo Berry..........169 Cedar, Incense......... 15% ‘Clover; Bush... -ee eee 157
Bulbocodium..........141 SEN ofsh dle NS. ccs coo 150 Cobra, longevity of see 20
Burning Bushee... Mae, EME F% cre ee ee 156 Cocos.. . noe
Butterfly Bush.........146 WAHT Ten: weno eee ee 149 Codieum ‘cuttings. Means:
Butternut, 0:05: .. «84, 155) (Wedrela tan: 0.28. 62 148) Ccelozynes..) ene 126
Button busheeeseee os 148 'Cedrus..7. o.4.... 136, 148. ‘Coffee Tree, Ken-
Buttonwood: se.20- lee G4 eCelosia-. ks ee 140 tucky 3! <7 Seeee 36, 153
Buxus. 3 oe 146 longevity of seed..... 20 Coix, longevity of seed. 20
Cabomba from ‘seed.... 31 time tOSOW=. 12. oe 24) ‘Colchicumis.s) see 74, 141
Cacahas. 2: s.r mAO,- Celtist 2% vic. eee AS Coleus, cuttings....... 53

longevity of ace dahiiee 20 Centauredec.cess ie ooo longevity ofseed ..... 20

sowing. Ben: 24: ClbbIN eS ese ico 04, Collinsia.=..-¢ 3 ae 140
Cactus from seed....... 41 longevity of seed. OO time to:sOw.. .seneeek 24
Cactus, grafting.92, 93, We time to sow. ..24, 33 Colutea.. as .150
@aladinmi2..22. Be Centranthus...........139 Convallaria........ cy 141

fancy: leat... smacs.. 76 Cephalanthus.......... 148 Convolvulus, longevity

BUGKEIB tics 6. cere 76) (Cerastinm.. esc ae LOO of-seed-. See 20

baboons. TOOUS eee ee oO CUbLINE Seas ee eee 54 \Cooperia:.... 4-2 eee 141
Calanthe.. Rea 26 longevity of Beed gaa 20) (Corchorus=.: a0. eee
Calathea.. : 82 Cerasus..<4...-.:..,+..164 (Coreopsis.... 0). sls ono
Calceolaria, longevity of Ceratostigma. . Me 2-139 longevity © ‘of seed Aes 20

Beedle 5 bent et 20 cuttings. 04 Conketrees ss Sele

SOWINGEN Ge ee ee LOSS Cercidiphyllum .. nas 149: "Cornus. 5... See 57, 150
Calendulas2ce. ee ee. 1AON’Cerciseawee te wee. ee 149) ‘Coronillay...:. ...0eeeee 139

longevity of seed..... 20 * Cereuseeite takes iS root cuttings... a. ome 64

SOWIE ciiccis oa Toe e. CeTINthels 4-10 3s nt aeen 140“ Cortaderia.. 2 eee 139
Callag sence eee 82 Chamecyparis. .36,60, 149 Corydalis............. 139
Callicarpa.. 21464C haste lree acts she I /7é Cae eee: BAe 150
Calliopsis, longevity of Chelone .2\.... 5.55. 2 139" Corylus.3. sn oe

seed...... 20 Cherry, Japan.........154 Cosmos... | .140
Callirhoe.. PT areda9 Mahaleb: anes 114 longev ity of seed..... 20
Callunas sacs gg 59, 146 MAZZATOs eee en 113 SOWINE 44 eee 24
Calochortuse oer 141 ornamental..........164 Cotoneaster....... eae 150
Calophaca...:s....... 146 Chestnut... <n. 2 2. - 34, 147 Cotyledon.. 76
Caltha from seed....... Siv @hilopsise seat oe Om Cranper ye High Bush. 177
ae .57, 64, a Chimonanthus.........149 CEREUS of ee ee Ba

BMASSIB . 2 1c\6 Se sales & me Ghitia "Preatecte (See 159 Crinum dig icighe sarah SER
@amellia... sn ao ° Crocosmia - ieee ee 141

cuttings... ich OS eee Parasol Tree...170 Crocus: -+-ol eee 74, 141
Campanula.. PGS rete) eR GRADER To ee rier 147 Croton, cuttings....... 52

divisions. . . 83 Chionanthus....... 44, 149 layering 2s Boks ae a

' longevity of séed. Aeatien 20 i Chionodoxae. 4... on 141 Crown Imperial........
Camphora.............146 Chorizema, from cut- Cryptomeria....36, 59, 150
Campsists <3...) eee 146 tings.. sae. os Cucumbers: pollinating . 46
Camprosorus:.. .4 426 125 scalding faced.) 2ank 36 sowing seeds......... 23
Canary Bird Vine, Chrysanthemum .......139 Cucumber Tree.....35, 159

longevity of seed... 20 CMcbtINe See. ose ...120 Cunninghamia..... 60, 150
Candytuft, Ronee of longevity ‘of aced. 8 20) Cupressusi-....0082 see 59

seed...... 20> atime! to Sow. acannerce 24: ‘Currant coe. sce 150, 168

sowing. oie Hee Zon Oimiciuganns ase et 139 Indian’. 322.2 eee 170

INDEX OF PLANT NAMES 11
Page Page Page
Muscardes pple 20-.0144 -Dracunculus) 3.0). 2%... 141 -Gauraii an <2. sedis. oe 139
MG estes s, ci. 8s sas a 125 Dusty Miller, sowing longevity of seed.. 20
CNG. a i ae 44 Bbeel 72 Gece shld & Geisshoriza. . 141
Cyclamen, corms...... 74 Easter Lily, bulbscales. 71 Gelsemium.. Mee al sy
longevity = Peet Meee 20 PrONYSCEGn.. see 39. ‘Gentstania aco. sae eee
sowing. ae 33 natural division...... 71 cuttings. . ios
Cyclophorus. . ...123. Echinacea.............189 Gentiana.. .139
(Cayce erat yee at See lod Ses: z t an Geranium “(See Pelargon-
Cyperus, from seed.... 31 Echinocereus.......... ium
sper, fo of seed.... 20 ae a JOneey Geranium, longevity of
ypress : .149 ao of seed...... a 288 ie pee Fes ae
Bal : .170 Echinops. . : .13¢ erbera..... ae oe?
Cypress Vine, longevity longevity of seed. . 20" Gesnerassee v.50 141
GieSeCGts: . asco. 0 Eichhornia from seed... 31 leaf cuttings......... 62
Cypripediuin,..3....252). 126 Eleagnus..........44, 151 sowing seed.......26, 33
peropteris secre oD Elderberry . Bee Lg ain Be 169% Geum ita ee ee 139
Cytisus.. Oral lB irs ee aor ciaesccrayeen es bee 172 divisions. . 83
Dahlia.. ata Bnuiia ES 5 oe eee eee 140 longevity of seed. . 20
longevity of seed. - 20 are Ivy ee: Beit ee Tree of California. 08
ropagation.. . 75 Epimedium. ie 7 niece PR RROD ery star
geberoun roots..-.... 75 Epiphyllum. i eet Syese Sy 92. (time to-sow. 2 52s... 24
Day ebne lichen: ew. 28 suranthis ss sics 2. co. iat Ginkgo.) 2.203. 7 48), 152
Michaelmas......... 83 Eremurus.. ie IA (Gladiolusicacaeee ees 141
Daphne sea ects eel ty. Ene Be Per ste: ee Bees 5 ea Sas tis on -
IDEN HG if 2 ne aera 1405) Eerivercniss 2c sites cormels. ;
longevity of seed..... 20 Eryngium............. 139 Gleditsia.. oe:
1D SSE VA ee a 123 longevity of seed.. 20 Globe Amaranth, longev-
Do 5 a ne ae 151 Erysimum.. nF -140 ity of seed.. .+. 20
Delphinium.... .24, 54, 139 longevity of seed. 20 Globe Flower.......... 156
longevity of seed..... 20 Erythronium.......... ..141 Gloriosa SG. os a8 } tae 141
Dendrobium 126 Eschscholtzia.......... HAD Gloxinia... fc as tices 141
Hentata’b Ib fe a nee teh 71 longevity of seed. . 20 leaf cuttings......... 62
ee es ait 1 sowing time. seas: longevity of seed..... 20
ca a pe taue. a Ft Soe pages mt — 6, 33
eutzla..... 20208, mcharis..:'..5.0 see 90 (ey ets Hae oy Dia Piacente 140
Dewberry (see joerg see Euonymus.........34, 152 longevity of a 20
Dianthus. . .139 Eupatorium.. .139 sowing. . viento:
longevity 0 of seed..... 20 cuttings. . ; 54 Gold-dust Tree........ 144
sowing. . tae 23, 24 longevity of seed. . 20 Golden Bell:..........: 152
1 OTE Cae en 140 Euphorbia, fulgens, cut- Gomphrenn..- oho. 140
Dicentra.. .139 a eee 53 longevity of seed..... 20
spectabilis root eut- longey ity of seed..... 20 Gooseberry... .80, ee 168
ETS Oe cokes 64 z See pees ital <.s E fe Sens Sua Liar eT loo
xochorda a7, orse "172
eee ee = WU Sao -- Sakoeke 152 Gourd, longevity of seed, 20
Dictammnus. |... . .139 Pas 33 ti t 5
Dicteobachin. ........ BS SUUSIA Ma abatihes cee ele cist se - 3) IME COSOWsras < s) ees 4
oe Bieus earies. cuss). fod Grapent.ca: ack, eS See
Diervilla.............. 151 Fig... SG Oreron sc... 159
peels «9: . s =e 4 Shel tee on Filbert , ee crealed eee ity of oy
ongevity of seed..... TUR Gites: Go Raye Pee a see soe citi
Dimorphanthus........151 Chinese: -.. nee ae 150 sowing 33
Dimorphotheca........149 Fittonia cuttings. . 53 Gum, Blue 152
longevity of seed.. 20 Five agin a een 164 Sour.. .161
ere oc BS ast oar Sienlia2 Sweet... Lae
Diospyros... 151 Fraxinus.. .......152 Guzmania.. SEG
Di : 151 1Dy Petes ee ae ae oe 141 Gymnogramma.. 125
rca. : Fringe Mree sess. os) 149 (Gynerums ao. ec. 139
Beeiteccs tree eee 139" “‘BritiMlaria 4... 3... bss. 141 _ longevity of seed.. 20
peer a te tseeee ine Fuchsia ee z er Gees: earehes 19, 153
(CiLG 0) 000 be Se eee unkia 3, 1 9, 1 Gypsophila pa sreiny v (0)
Dolichos, longevity of IAC ears ce » sees 172 longevity of seed..... 20
TSS be ee ae 0 aie secre eer ates root cuttings........ 64
Doronicum......... 83, 139 ongevity o see time: toisoweas ce. con 24
fioryepteris 125 root enuttings;. 5215s): 64 Heemodorum. ..<... =<. 140
gp ita ROWE POs wees. 24: Halpsia oles. te teS
Draba......... epee ons 139 Galanthus. .. .141 Halimodendron. . ..153
Dracena, layering..... 78 alega. dS: Hramiarheligy oe... Ss 154
longevity of seed..... 20 Gahan...) : are 139 Hawthorn.... 34, 150
propagating.......52,58 Galtonia.............. 141 ‘Indian... Pe kG7
Gowsne seed io... me 33 Gardenia cuttings...... 53 Hazelnut... .150
Dracocephalum........189 Garrya............... 44 Heather.. 146

12)

Page
lederanc soko: OO ROe
Fietenramissssi ee 140

cuttings. . 54
longevity of ‘seed. . 20
ielramthus 2. )seceaee ae “140
GIVISION. <0... eee 83
longevity of seed..... 20
rigidus, root eevee: he
Helichrysum. . 140
longevity of seed. . 20
Heliopsis. longevity of
S€ed..c.s oa eee 20
Heliotrope, cuttings.... 53
longevity of seed..... 20
Helipterum............140
Helleborus........140, 141
Hemerocallis... 23.2... 75
iemlock sce ee Dae
empybush cere 177
Elenaitieaacnc reese eee 140
Heraclewm:... eee 140
eS perisss se eae « 54, 140
Eleucherdm ascot 54, 140
HEM DISCUS Aa ie ae 154
longevity of seed. . 20
Elivekconyarrs iret ieee eee: Sas 147
Hippophaes 2.2 .. - 45, 154
ELOliveta sce ern Ce 154
Hollyhock, cuttings..... 54
longevity of seed..... 20
sowihg.... ao yOo
See also Althxa
Honeysuckle........... 158
Hop Hornbeam. allot
BUREO SSE ee 166
CLOnGeUnia a... 140
Evornbeam: f.). ieee ce 147
Horse Chestnut . 143
DD wWark ces Seek 162
lBiGieefenelache meso 455 Buse 170
Inovenia eee. aes ee 154
Hoya, leaf cuttings..... 62

Huckleberry (see Vaccin- L

lum)

Humulus, longevity of

seed.

Hunnemannia, longev ity

of seed..

Hyacinth, Holland

method of notching

and cen bulbs.
Hydrangea. .
CuUGtiWNeS sieves ae 25S
Hymenoceallis..........
Hy ELICUIN. +e ter.
Hyssopus
MDeTISc ches ne aes

Idesia..

nmi atienss eee ees
Imantophyllum........

Imaian Bean). veri
Indico Plantis.. +o:

Ipomeea, cuttings......
longevity of seed.
Iresine cuttings.

66

ete

aN,

Page
Imes bulbous... 2. ea
@aliiornians..700e oe 141
longevity of see 20
rhizomatous. . : 141
ironwoods. ->..ueee seer 161
SIM Ene \.eabeker en 141
1 [fey OPES SF Sy acter corer tats. ce 155
Ivy, Boston........34, 144
hi nolishiweepe beeiee. 53
Genmangees: cnt oe 53
exis, Sen eee a eee 74, 141
ia olirvon@aris oro ce 141
Japan Gooseberry. 143
CG arset aware Since 150
IMs pler tase enolic 143
Pagoda Tree. . 169,
Varnish’ iree... sen 170
JASMINE: Wie o ss pee 155
Carolina Set ae 152
CutLbINe Ss) ee ne 54
JASTOMAITe ee eee 55
Jerusalem Cherry...... 33
JUNeYBELLY see ceeiee 143
WUdasireen see ee 149
Wuclans 44s eee 155
Juniper... 36, 37, 59, 156
alma: Ones Saeed 156
Kentia. . 33
Kentucky Coffee Tree,
~ ili
INGERTAn cote enone 57, 156
Wihites teeta eter 168
Kniphofia.... co lA
Kochia, longevity of
RUets10 ine a etn eia 20
Kecelreutertae cic. ss oe 156
Labrador Tea... USSF
achenaliay.;. 12cm 141
Lagerstroemia......... 157
Lantana, cuttings..... 54
longevity of seed..... 20
hapeyrousiaea. «ass. 141
ATOM s.ceiamileisres ke sues 157
Goldent-aeeadesn eee 165
LGU sre OS ch ce ee RAL
Larkspur, annual, Tongev-
ity of seed.. #220
cuttings. . stare 54
time to Sow. Rey t 24
Lathyrus, longevity of
SGCdii4ad cerca 20
Daaareli fess ees ee ree 157
INKOuUM TAA crereee eee 156
Wauirus! ayaa oboe 157
Lavandula, longevity of
SCCUMIN AA ae
Lavatera, longevity of
(acevo | 5 eae eee ye 20
Wayans nee se Se ee 140
MeatherswWiood -encs.ee 151
Ledum.. aloyy
Lemon (See Orange)
Lentil Shrub..
Leptosiphon, ‘time to
SOW See 24
Lespedeza... ar
Leucojum.... SAL
Leucothoe. . pile
Liatris. . ; ..140
longevity of seed. . 20
Libocedrus...... 36, 60, “157

COMMERCIAL’ PLANT PROPAGATION

Page
ieustrum:s.ccocne 57, 157
d Dil ope oem aa Minis. =) ay fae (70)
SUMMNET a oer 146
Lily of the Valley. . .83, 141
Lily, bulb scales....... 71
Easter, from seed.... 39
natural division...... 71
Limnanthemum from
seed..

Limnocharis ‘from seed. 31

LInatiaito6 hoe ee 140
longevity of seed.... 20
Lindenie a. ae eee By51y Lif
Lindera.... 144, 157
Linum.. ..140
cuttings. . 54
longevity of seed... 20
time to/sow, eee 24
Laiquiddamber. s-eener isifé
Tariodendron.. 4.) eee iNGire
Lobelia... . ds seeneeee 140
cuttings. . 54
longevity of seed. . 20
SOWINE. 3.02 Dee 26
KoblollysBbayes eee 153
Locust: ...2.. . + see Loe
TON Y...: 5 4.ceeaene 36, 153
MoOniceras a eee 57, 158
Loosestrife cuttings..... 54
Gotus':4 +.cece eee , 140
Ludwigia from seed.... 31
Lunaria, longevity of
séed.3 3... oo eee 20
Lupinus. . .140
longevity of seed. . 20
sy. chnis! 3362 eee 140
ures of sents 20
Lycium.. 7 158
LAV OPIS: si 6 de eee 141
IVayeteysbhvechan. so 540 kof 123
lysimachia: 2... aneeeee 140
Lythrum: ..2 3 eee 140
longevity of seed..... 20
Midiaickia. <::....5 see 149
Maclura.... 45, 158
Miadia’.-:.:../s..nees ae 14
Maonolia= sancti ee 35, 158
Mahonia.. < 1359S
Maidenhair Tree were 52
IMandracoraves: ere ene 140
Maple. .2. eee 34, 35, 142.
Howerine pee eee 142
Maranta: 22a aee eee 83
Marica: .: 2. eae 76
Marigold, longevity of
SCCM: saS4ee see ee 20
TIME: TOISOWeic eee 23
Marvel of Peru, longev-
ityeof seed... ..ceee 20
Miasdevalliaits .... eee 126
Matricaria, longevity of
See's os.sciac ati 20
Matrimony vine....... 158
Matthiolat. seer eer 140
longevity of seeds.... 20
Maurandia, longevity of
seed ace eee 20
ee Sweets sone 169
Medlar..\. 7 since eee 159
Melia: 12sec eee 159
Menispermum.........140

INDEX OF PLANT NAMES 13

Page
INTenG Hamat sie Votes. «LAO
Mentzelia...ccs. 2. ~ 2140
Wlerbensia.........:...140

Mesembryanthemum,
longevity of seed... 20

Mespilus.. ; ..159
Metrosideros cuttings. . 54
Mignonette.. Lee tr

longevity of seed..... 20

time to sow....... 24, 33
WING oh 141
Mimosa, longevity of

longevity of seed..... 20
ROWAN a. csi s kts 6
IE IONE) SEOs ea OS Pee 28
Mistletoe (see Phoraden-
dron)
Momordica, done oey
of seed. . :
Maparda..............140
root cuttings. duisis hata OF
DVGH SEEN Ay or aisles sbi. 2 a Sle 83
Montbretia........ 74, 141
Moon Vine.. :
IYO a) ae 74. “141
Morning Glory, time to
BOM Soc terentae us
IM Ge Te er 45, 159
IM Ro ofes eA Aen ed

146
Musa, longevity of seed. Ne
Muscari dy ea ieee ean

Myosotis. . As 140
longevity of seed. . 20
BOWie se. ce whe ae eee

IVivaiGd ieee, Shears ee 160

Mevrtle; (Crapes.ni cs oe lot

BUN feUNaeebe Rete best ce hack 160

UNE peliaire dese <cacee os 141

NPM GING< ec.5 Ns sac S 160

INATCISSUS ss... <-<0<'s <3 71, 141

INanbhecnmm: ck ot sks. 141

INSStUMbrimM 2 otc 2 140
longevity of seed. . 20
time tO:sOW:. -.2f35: = 23

Nectarine.. Serene LOO

Nelambrun: division be Ge
PPOMMNSCEG «0.3.6 sie, fea « 31

INemastylis............. 141

IN INIE STA See ne ts ste lehaiaiere 140
longevity of seed.. 20
time to sow. ...<.:.: 24

Nemophila............140
GIIMEC-bO!SOW.. «sf eis 24

Nepenthes..........4. 52

Nephrolepis........... 125

INiGElTere ee ae. Sat ches 141

Neri seen fl. eo: 161
GUEUNOS No .ccs se os OF

INGGHIECETEES ¢ sc. ole 148

INGE VIMSIAy och coe ls ce cess GL

New Jersey Tea....... 147

INFEOUIATIS 85.86 ects ee 3 140

longevity of seed..... 20
Nierembergia, longevity

(SViME(Ses BAe ee ene na 20

ELIBFGLOISOW: feln)s oe Stee 24

Bie ta Ieee wee cae) eas, 0 6 'e ©

oe ae of seed.....

Nolana, time to sow...
Nymphea, division. .

Odontoglossum

i

ee

a, Se ee 6 Se ee « 6-6

Ce

Ornithogalum..
Orontium from seed.

Cele ee eae o ew wen w «

ee

Pachysandra cuttings. .

Cr

root cuttings
Paliaras Tree, Japan....

Pansy, lenny of seed 20
33

longevity of seed.....
root cuttings
Parasol Tree, Chinese.

Passion Flower Fe ee ers
1d: cee 162

ae pee. .100, 114
if eieoell (5

000.6 uae © e-e 6 «8 we

Pea Tree, Siberian
Pelargonium cuttings..

longevity of seed... .

ee of seed. .
Peony (see Paeonia) —
Peperomia, leaf cuttings “02

sto Keys pokes gis ee ore aie 1

Page
PERMIT A eee Rie oe ee 140
longevity of seed..... 20
HiINEtOISOW.<e os ae 23
IPNaceliais 9 4 s25-4 ee 140
Phalaris, estwikro neces 140
Phellodendron. ..45, 64, 162
Bhiladelphustiasc. 5.28 163
eaten a CAME Ret eee 123
Phlomis. . bee Pe einen i 0)
Phlox. . Lanett AO
Drummondii, longev-
ity of seed.. :
root cuttings........ 64
tAIMe GOLSOWs . <6. eee 24
Phoradendren:::......: 163
PhONa Joe See 163
Physi ri titises-4arpes 163
Physocampuss2 «4. 4200166
Physostecia «aco. ei 140
es aide of seed. . 20
Picea.. ee ee ie 37. 163
Pickneya. Wot Made ata eee 163
Gai Pa cr Ren ae nae oh ore YE ae 163
PIMey hace Sha ene 36, 163
Umbrella. . .169
Pineapple (see Ananas)
Pinks, ria ve ee
Pinus.. Shivtsc alos
Plane Tree.. Sty OF:
Plantanusine «6 cenks te 164
Platycodon.. See)
longevity of seed. £420
Plum, ornamental. . 164
stocks tai OES Saree a ly ¢
Plumbago......... .64, 140
Podophyllum -..s.:.....140
IRoimsettia ene. peek 140
CULEINGE:s haere hak 128
Polemonium...........140
Polygonatum......140, 141
Polygonum. «02056. <2. 140
root cuttings.....:.. 64
Polystichum.. eae ee

Pomegranate (see Punica)
Pontederia from seed.. 31

Poplar Nie ase 164
Poppy, longevity of seed 20
time to sow. | Bae
Populus. . Rees (2
Portulaca. . beh eh ee Seay 140
longevity of seed. . 2)
TIMESO-SOWs coy se
Potentilla...... 54, 140, ea
4 Pride of India. . .159

Primrose (see Primula)
ergo) eee ae

sowing ; 2 Pos
Privet.. t ve 157
ere h hab ey SOR es tne ae 164
IBseudolarix.ia.... 4: 36, 165
Pseudotsuga........36, 166
IRteleay sere hives ae 166
Pteris palmata.........125
IPterocanyai acess. os 166
IPterostyraxscmiss 2 nine 166
Pueraria, ici of
Sted).i.ae an 21
Punicasrinciov aston 166
Puschkinia 141

14
Page
SUIS TS ce ei pee ge 166
Quince. . 80) 151 167
Ranunculus, bulbous. Pel
perennial... cn. ea lL40
Raphiolepis. «oo... 167
Raspberry.... = OW
seed treatment....... 30
bipsl ayerssic etree ide
RedsBuds ..-ce ae eae 149
Retinispora..... 36, 59, 167
Ribammnus:s. veh cee eee 167
Reheamn. s tk aoe 140
Rhodanthes:e seen ee 140

longevity of seed.....
Rhododendron......38, 167
Rhodotypos.........34, 168

RGIS eae nea see 168
IRA DES See eee a eee here 168
Rich ardya ser perro yeni 141
ICIS T a errs s 140
longevity of seed.. 21
Obinga ea aoe Dials 64, “168
VOCMROSE se Celene 149
HOMME a coe et ea 140
TOOMCULEINES = 6). 64
Rose of Sharon........ 154
Roses from:seed........129
budding.... .97, 131, 133
cuttings... .129, 130, 131
grafting... tie Ase, 136
grafting case. Sr lisa
layers. Blow
seedling i inarch. . 106

stocks for gr aftage 132

1501 0} RS 5-0 aoaree 168
inudbeckial. oss eee 140
longevity of seed..... 21
Sagittaria from seed.... 31
DtaJoOnms Wotte se os. 154
Salisburia (see Ginkgo)
SS ]H Ib: gg cee cere Se mam 168
Salpetloseia he Ms .140
longevity of seed. . Pal
LIME uOISOW se arose. 24
POET bis ts Nee: pata cei BCE ok 140
cuttings... , 54
longevity of seed. ZA
time to sow. ‘24, 33
Sambucus..........57, 169
SsneunManiae. soe eee 140
Sanseveria, leaf cuttings 62
Santolina cuttings. . . 64
Sanvita liga c6 oats 140
longevity of seed.. 21
HIME RLORSOW ae ae artes os 24
PR DONATIAE oh, 2. sye aint 140
longevity of seed..... 21
TOO CUULINES-\4). neta 64
Sassafras)... 12. 64, 76, 169
Samira. Sete eee 140
NCabiosaeas | eee 140
longevity of seed..... 21
tiMebO SOWA oer. 24
Schizanthusswesaiees 140
longevity of seed..... 21
TAMEMOISOW eee Lae
poadone Septem 36, 169
Scilla. . me ol
Sedum . A, qe 83, 140
Seneciotainn «2°: iene 140
Senna, Bladder........ 150

Page
NEGUOLALades ee ae eg
Shad=Bushas melee 143
Shepherd... ..ci..2 Od
Sidalcea.:.. oe eee 140
Silene! 2. coe ae oe 140
Silphium.. Rae LAO
Silver-bell. . ORY be orate ten 153
Silver Weak ie... lS
Sisyrinchium.......... 140
Skinimia- pees) ae ee lOO
Smuilacinaeeeeenceee cee 141
Smilax, longevity ofseed 21

GUIMERLOISOW oe ee 33
smokelree. paciactee 168
Snapdragon (see Antir-

rhinum)
Snow balllstaevan.« see aly Ae
Snowberryosery ve eee 170
Snowdrop Tree........ 153
Snow Wreath. . 161
Solanum, longevity of
seed .. ; 21
time to sow Sapo: gncs ao
Solidagoss.cee ae Bil We)
SONORA yee eae ee 169
HOLDUSH ero 2 ie Ee 169
Sorrel Tree.. em eee Sali
Sparaxis.. .. @4, 141
Sphxrogyne cuttings. 2
Spice Bush. a
Spindle Tree. - el?
Spine 4 Ses 141, 169

BIWea Rice peels Bye 147
Sprekelia .141
DDEUCES nie ane 163

Douglas... . 166
Squashes, pollinating. . . 43
Sitaehiys: Memes ess ns ee ‘140
Staphylea... o's. cies 169
Statice. . ..140

longevity of seed. . 21

root cuttings... ....:. 64

GME TOSOWe so. ses 24
Stephanandra. . . .169
Sberewlis. esta | sae 170
Stevia, cuttings. . 54

longevit ty of seed... 21
LE WAT AMEE: cs 5 aces 90
Stigmaphyllon Eli
SUOCIS i. i eee 21, 140
Stokesian ce see 140

longevity of seed Dil

TOOWEMEbINe Gee yee 64
Storaxian states. oe 170
Straw Dernyanem ican 80
Strawberry Tree.......144
Streptocarpus.......... 62
SUG UENELG Eh) nes ee Benen ese 170
Sly namaste aces eo
SUCATNS CULV see 148
SAD GATE Keen ek os eee aR aS oa ey 168
Sunflower, cuttings of

Derenmiailses eee: 54

UL eNtOsSO Welk eee 24
Swainsona cuttings..... 54
Sweet dbeat 5. ah pe 170
Sweet Peasy... 2s... 2% 140

longevity of seed..... 21

time toisow.... 2.265 0

treating seeds. ....... 30

COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

Page
Sweet Rocket, SOREN
ity of seed.. 5
Sweet shrub.. ‘146

ae Sultan, "time to

Pee aS sh 24

Savect. William .. 29
SIVAN OLE eyes 164
Symphoricarpos....57, 170
EVEL ACOR “anh oes a ee 170
Syringa.. 57, 64, 170
Tagetes.. ...140
longevity of seed..... 21
Tamarack.. ee UG y/
Tamarindus.... Vee
Tamarishk...+., ne Dee
Tamarix... 5 2) Seo
Tanacetum....0 20 4 ele)
Taxodium. . .170
Taxus. . arco. 17k
Tea, Labrador. RE by6
New Jersey... <a) hee 147
Pecoma: .<....2 22 atonal
TLhalictrum..:..92. Soma
TOG ai cien Shee ran) ee 171
Thermopsis. >.2:. 2. 2eeela0
LOGtcubhine sop eee 64
Thornes ple iene 150
Thorn, Christ’s. .161

Thunbergia, longev ity of

Seed. /..-5 Se eee Al
Thujopsis.).... 2 peel
Thuya:s..,..2. +> dono o eal
iodine 74, 141
Tali. f.. 2 cans ss ot
Tillandsia . . 16
Tococa cuttings. . 62

Tomatoes, time to ‘sow. eS
. 46

pollinating... 4
Toothache Tree. . 178
Torenia . : .140

longev ity of seed. - 21

time tO sO Ws ene 24
‘Rorreyares. cee 172
Tradescantia. soe 140
Tree of Heaven........143
Trilligm: <5 See 141
‘Triteleia’.:. | eee 141
‘Tritoman. <2 eee 141

longevity of seed. Pit
ARTitODIA: cont eee 141
Trollius.. .140
Trumpet Flower. 145

Creeper.. eo eae
WeSug ais Ao. See ee 172
Muberoses see 141
Tulip, Holland inn 7A
Tulip Tree.. Seis LS
Tunica, longevity of

S@Gd 2 Sais eee PAI
Tupelo... 16h
Tydea.. pO
Typha from seed....... Sl
Wlex: 33.0c 3 ee 172
Ulmus 22st. . oe ee eae
Unensidia, 2.06. eee 172
Vaccinium een 72
Valerian. nner 140
Mallota,. acai cee ae 141
Vanda. Merereene roe 2c
Var nish Tree PRR ES ! 156

Japan.?.< spa oeeee 170

INDEX OF PLANT NAMES 15

Page Page Page
Verbascum............140 Virginia Stock, when to enter. te ei 151
DV TIRCNUAE es AS aid sie evereveus 140 SOWRES oie nicisie eae Wihttelace.<e eekes ayaa Aa

UGB Sess ac clos oe 4, PMALOK esis olvenctererecciee Fie Nello Se OR eee 49
longevity of seed..... 21 OWilita Sacre foo aie che retetae.o © LT “Woeodbinet..5. ole. . a. : 144
Hie tO SOM>.= is 24, BO! W&HOOcyarc eee o's wes 152 Xanthoceras.....<. 64, 177
Verbena, Lemon, cut- Wallflower, longevity of Xanthorrhiza’...2:. 4: 178
TTS), Se Seon eee 54 SECO wis eisla's eee 1-Xeranthemum......... 140
SOMeCerne sa. cic tafe ose 140? AWrialtueres Sac. cnaractetare 34 longevity of seed.. 21
RUDHINES . oe OF Mesh se oo etetenee 155 Xanthoxylum.. 178
divisions .. ss Ss IWAN SECS. scale ove! scores 166 Yellow Root, Shrubby.. 178
longevity of seed. . ZT WaTSONIA &28 0. cie.srse 74,141 Yellow Wood: .2), 28)
Viburnum...... 34, 57, Wt Wier list jotsescte isa Esch Aleph MiGWiske con ateay. cet ‘7
Victoria from seed.. Whitewood........ yu al Stinking. ee See ee de 172
Vinca, longevity of seed 3 AWaTIL OW era Siarezarcten uate eke’ ste GS Wourecase yy akise es oes 140, 178
cuttings of V. major.. 54 ID YESH aa eR caer oe 149. Zantedeschia.......... 141
time to sow V. rosea. 33 SICH ABBR oor ee 155. Zanthorrhiza....:..... 178
W510) Ea ap FAQ A eWWaistamienre . .\e 5 sicntsne ane 177 Zanthoxylum.. Perel Wie’
longevity of seed..... 21 Wistaria Tree..... . .166 Zephyranthes. . 4d
time to sow... ....... 33 Witch Hazel... ee54: Shinvitay sce bee 140
Violets, improving crop.138 Wood, Bass........ Bue AVAL longevity of seed..... 21
selection Ea ee 138 IBN ROLNS Mieke Babson icae ie 164 when to sow..........24
Virginia Creeper.......144 PPO fetes se ecsustereve steaks 161 Zizania from seed...... 31

INDEX

Page
Almond, Double-flowering...... 165
Anthericum, Offsets of......... 15
Paales (suoded)....5465..2.... L112
Artichoke (Jerusalem) Tuber of. 74
Pena UIT 27 ohh Me cia sgca ss wees 124
Begonia (Rex), leaf cutting.... 61
eer C NOHO OT... oie eyes cabs Ss 145

Blueberry:
New shoots on a stumped, 174;
Tubered cutting, 175; Tubered
eutting with sprouts rooting

2 Se Sa eae ere 176
Budded:

Seedling tree, 100; Apples... .112
Budding:

Shield, 100; Sprig, 101; Patch,
102; Patch (of Mango), 103;

Hi, 103; * Cherries,- 115; The

Sr ERIEPT Reet PaCS crore co alt kad iia
ree thee oe ee SS 99
Bulb Farm, A Holland.. Frontispiece
PD eHee. %. ss 4 Sie che tsk kere 70

Bulbs:
Diagram of structure, 65;
Easter Lily, 66; Hyacinth, 66,
67; First stage of notched, 67;
A notched Hyacinth, 68; A

seooped Hyacinth. «2... 02: 69
Gapaioa BUnPEl, i sis.) sce burs 148
Cattleya, Rhizome of.......... LE

Gherhes,) -Buddimaicies pte. ou 115
Coldframe for sowing perennials 32

Corm:

Gladiolus, 73; Gladiolus (from

which tunic has been removed) 73
Cuttings:

Condition of wood for, 47;
Chrysanthemum, 48; Dahla,
55; Hardwood, 56; Simple
conifer, 58: Heel, 59; Mallet, |
60: Rex Begonia leaf, 61;
Rooted leaf, 61; Another
method of making leaf, 62;
Leaf (of Peperomia), 63; Root,
64; Two-eye Rose, 130; One-
RIG OBE eerie 2S eee 130

Cyeas revoluta:

Male flower of, 45; female

TOWED AO eee tts Gs Sih ae 45
Dahlia, Tuberous roots of...... 74
Daisy-like flower, A.....2.... 43
Hilm: oC am perdowia. oe... 22.0: bis
g eS id Ge lat Soe er ae Sa 1 esa
Germination:

Melon, 18; Of an English

Wwnnlinthiresteeee gcc. oki eos 156
Ginkgo, Budding the.......... io
Gladiolus corm. 2... <225 fi 73

From which tunic has been re-

TENE. eee © ees Ee ia

Gooseberry, Mound layer of.... 80

16 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

Page
Grafting:
Whip or tongue, 90; Whip (on
roots), 90; Cions for cleft, 91;
Cleft, 91; Veneer, 92; Side, 93;
Splice (Pereskia Cactus), 94;
Saddle, 94; Bridge, 95; Veneer
crown, 95; Inlayed crown, 96;
Crown (in war zone), 97; Term-
‘inal bud (Pine), 98; Cleft
(Cacti), 110; Rose stock cut
ready for, 135; Rose cion for. .135
Hyacinth:
Bulbs, 66, 67: First stage of
notched bulb, 67; A notched
bulb, 68; A scooped bulb.... 69

Inarch, Modification of........ 105
TnArehing..televneseot scutes 104.
Iris, German, Portion of Rhizome 81
Layering:
Simple, 77; Tip (a Raspberry),
SNES coal, cote) SAR meant, a 78

Lily (Easter):
From seed, 40: Bulb, 66; seed-

| 1 eae Rp ee a Vices YE wes 2 am 72
Maple Key, Auste arc rose. scits 142
VT Sita Th Gala Sine oe Seto c ht ch sate 82
Melon Germination............ 18
‘Mound layer of Gooseberry.... 80
Mulberry, Teas’ Weeping...... 160
Offsets of Anthericum......... 75
Paulownia tomentosa, Seed

VEGREISOL Hoey yk 2 kote he ee oeront 162
PrmulasSiebolditt 22455. . oes 81
Propagating:

Case, 40" House fs oo ..3. 25. .50

Page
Rhizome:
Portion of German Iris, 81; Of
Cattleyay ob isc s. be cen eee 137
Rose:

Seedling, 106, 107; Inarched
seedlings, 108; Two-eye cut-
ting, 130; One-eye cutting,
130; Standard, 133; Stock cut
ready for grafting, 135; Cion

for grafting: .23jae ee eee 11535
Rubus propagation2- a2 eee 79
Runners, Strawberry........... 80
Screen for seed beds........ 34, 36
Seed:

Testing, 22; Sown in flats, 25;
Sereen for beds, 34, 36; Cone
of Birch, 145; Ball of Sweet

Gum, 158; Vessels of Paul-

Ownla tomentosas 0. 162
Seedlings:

Pea, 18;-In pot,’ 24: Haster

Lily, 72; Rose, 106, 107; In-

arched Rose w.? . eee 108
Squash blossoms:.< ..:. jee 42
Strawberry runners... See 80
Sweet Gum, Seed Ball of....... 158
Tomato: blOSSoniiess ase eee 46
Tuber of Jerusalem Artichoke.. 74
Tuberous roots of Dahlia...... 74
Tulip propagation. |). neeeee 70
Typical flower, Section of...... 42

Walnut (English), Germination
1

Yewhberry,: Ac’... eee 171

ene:

®,

SSS
oF

L\ LD kh
= LA ZE ce.

CHAPTER I

SEEDS

Plants not Breeding True from Seed — Germination — Longevity —

Testing Seeds — Time to Sow — Annuals — Soil —Pots and Flats

— Light —- Suggestions for Sowing — Depth — Sowing Fine Seed —

Firming —Watering — Time Required for Germination — Special

Treatment — Soaking — Canna — Acid Treatment — Aquatics —

Perennials — Florists’ Seeds — Shrub — Tree — Scalding — Coni-

fers — Damping-off Fungus — Broad leaved Evergreens — Easter

_ Lilies — Cactus — Saving Seeds — Dicecious Plants — Pollinating
Tomatoes — Cucumbers.

LANTS exist in order to produce their seeds; some die imme-

diately after finishing this process. Seeds are entire plants in

an embryonic stage and are so micrified that the oak tree is within
the acorn.

The labor of seed production by a plant is trying and, when seed
is not wanted, it is better to release the flowers from producing their
seeds by picking the blooms as they pass their maturity.

Good looking seed is not always indicative of their ability to
produce superior plants from that seed. Hidden within the sexual
constitution of the seed is the secret of its real value.

It is the superior ancestry of the plant rather than the individual
value of a single seed which counts. Baldwin Apples may produce
good seed but they do not produce good Baldwin Apples. Many
of the poor relation parents show up when the seeds are sown. In
the same manner seeds from the blue Lobelias will often produce
progeny with varying hues of blue flowers. Such hybrid plants
whose parentage is much complicated and whose characteristics
are not fixed must be propagated by other methods.

THE GERMINATION OF SEEDS

Whether a seed sprouts or not depends on four factors: water,
air, heat and viability, or, the ability to live. Each seed has its
proper or optimum moisture, atmospheric and temperature re-
quirements. For example, Mistletoe seed will germinate on the
trunks of trees where the conditions are often very dry. For seed
germination ordinary outdoor flowers require a temperature of
from 50° to 70°, conservatory plants 60° to 80°, and. tropical
or stove plants from 75° to 95°. . ie

17

18 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

Fig. 1.—Pea seedlings

The viability of
a seed depends up-
on a great number
of factors. Seeds
if immature when
gathered are not
so viable; they
will germinate
better immediate-
ly after picking
than when stored
for some time.
Pansy seeds ma-
ture in such a
way that only
some of the seeds
are perfectly ripe
at one time. The
best seed is hand-
picked.

Frequently
seeds are affected
with insects or
diseases; this will
retard germina-
tion or make it
impossible. The
age of seeds is also

important because every seed has a certain period of longevity.
In some cases seeds must be sown immediately after ripening,
else they do not start. Some seeds, such as those of Cucumbers,

are better when two or three years old.

Fig. 2.—Melon germination. Note the knob on the root which catches the
seed coat, holding it under the surface of the soil

SEEDS 19

LONGEVITY OF SEEDS

Regarding the longevity of seeds, H. A. Dreer, Inc., write:

“It has to be understood that in a favorable season and with
perfect harvesting conditions, seeds of all sorts are liable to be of
much stronger germination than they would in an unfavorable
season, particularly if the conditions at the time of harvesting are
not justright. The longevity of many seeds is materially increased
because they are now grown in this country, particularly in Cali-
fornia, where the conditions for their best development are nearly
ideal.

The life of seeds is no doubt considerably influenced by the con-
ditions under which they are kept over from one year to another. We
believe that the proper conditions are a cool, airy place where the
bags or receptacles in which the seeds are kept may be spread out,
so that the air can circulate around them. This was tested out
some years ago by the United States Department of Agriculture,
and the result of their investigations seemed to show that seeds kept
best under the same conditions that are preferred by most human
beings. In other words a temperature of somewhere between
sixty and seventy-five degrees is about right.”

Commenting on longevity of seeds, Geo. W. Oliver writes:
“Instances are common where seeds of various plants have ger-
minated many years after they were gathered. Seeds of several
leguminous genera have been known to remain in good condition
for a number of years.

Among these are several which are well authenticated, notably
Desmodium gyrans, which has been known to remain in good condi-
tion for twenty-five years, and Gymnocladus canadensis, which has
germinated after a long time in storage. Some of the tropical tree
legumes have seeds which lose their vitality only after many
years when kept dry and cool. Some seeds are peculiar in
that they sometimes develop only the cotyledons and the
roots the first season. One or two species of Jpomecea have this
peculiarity.

A well known instance of this nature also occurs in one or more
of the common Oaks. The seeds of the Coffee plant develop the
cotyledons which sometimes remain in this condition for several
months before true leaves are developed.”’

Three Cassia seeds are known to have germinated when 85
years old. It is doubtful whether the wheat seed found several
years ago in the pyramids of Egyt were as old as was claimed,
and if so, it is hardly to be believed that they grew.

20 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

LONGEVITY OF FLOWER SEEDS IN YEARS

(Derived mainly from data furnished by

Ageratum........
Agrostemma.. .
Agrostis nebulosa.

Ampelopsis. .. .
Anchusa. > -3...0-.-
Anemone........
Antirrhinum.... .
Aquilegia........
Wrapisst. 4.20.
Armera.:.......

Balsa. 2.266 02.

Baptisia. .

Begonia.......

Bocconia......
Brachycome. . .
Briza maxima....
Browallia......
Wpealiac, §.0 ee
Calceolaria...... .
Calendula.....
Calliopsis..... .

Campanula. .

Canary Bird Vine.

Candytuft. .

Carnation.....
asst. ones

@elosia ol.

Centaurea.....
Cerastium.....
Chrysanthemum.
(meraria: i...
Crisis ns ae
Clematis panicu-
ACD a eae eens

is eee

tw 2

2 % 69 29
ear lien

1
e tO Sr OO He H OO He 09 OOD H 09 WO OO 09 OO

Coreopsis..... .
Cosmos... =. °
Cyclamen......

Delphinium . Z abe

Dianthus. .
Digitalis. .

Dimorphotheca . .
Doehehoss..-....
Draceena......
Echinocystis.. . . .
Echinops. .....
Eryngium.....
Erysimum.......
Eschscholtzia... .
Eupatorium....
Euphorbia.......
ends: <a eee
Gaullardia;. 2. .:
(GAOId? soe yaa
Geranium......

Geum. .

Globe Amaranth.

Gloxinia. .

Godetia. .. . =.

Gomphrena......
Gomes hiss 32
Grevillea......
Gynerium.....
Gypsophila. . ..
Helenium........
Helianthus.....
Helichrysum... ..
Heliopsis. .....
Heliotrope.......
Hibiseus®.;. |...
Hollyhock.....
Humulas. .<
Hunnemannia....
thems.

9
2-8
2

wo
I

Or eo to v9 om

I
OS mt o> 09 OO OO OO *~ OO OO

Larkspur—: Annual

3-4

H. A. Dreer, Inc.)

Lathyrus latifolius

3-4
Lavandula....... 2
Lavatera:..: 2.2: 3-4
Liatris. . 2
Linaria cymbalaria 2

int’, .. 4.4.5 5-6
Lobelia cardinalis.2-3
Lobelia erinus . . . 3-4
Lunaria: 23288 3-4
Lupmus: )2 a2 3-4
Isychnis, . eee 2-3
Lythrum, 7.2222 a
Marigold..\.= 3-4
Marvel of Peru. . 2-3
Matricaria, ...... “2
Matthiolazsa.. 4 3-4
Maurandia....... 2
Mesembryanthe-

MUM 3. one 3-4
Mignonette 2-4
Mimosa: . 22 2-3
Mbnulus. 3-4
Momordica...... 4-5
Musas24 5-4 4-4
Miyosous.... 6 ee Q
Nasturtium. ... . .3-4
Nemesia. ..-.. ous 2
Nicotiana.....-. 3-4
Perens Pe ea
Nigella. . ea wae
Pansy. . 2-3
Papaver " bractea-

tum. oko eee 3-4
Pennisetum...... 2-3
Pentstemon...... 2
Petunia? 227.0 3-4
Phlox Drummondii

1-2
Physostegia. .... uae
Platyeodan:. 2 2-3
Poppy: .: = 4so5 ee 3-4
Portulaca... .....3-4
Primula chinensis. 2

elation: Ss ¢enee 2
Forbesus7.a 2

japonica....... 4

kewensis....... 2

malacoides.... 2

obconica....... 1

SEEDS

LONGEVITY OF FLOWER SEEDS IN YEARS—Continued

Primula polyanthus 2
Willgaris. ..... :
Pueraria.........3-4
Rhodanthe....... 2-3
Ricinus. . we
Rudbeckia. . Q
Salpiglossis. . i cache! AS
Bie sks ws 2
Sanvitalia....... Q
Saponaria........ Q
Scabiosa.........2-3

Schizanthus...... 2-3
Sinisa... 2-3
Solanum. ........ 4-5
Solidago Q
SLC LR. 5 re 1-2
Stevia. 2-3
Stocks. 4-5
Stokesia..... Q
Sweet Peas...... 3-4
Sweet Rocket... . 3-4
Wamehes s 26: caret 3-4

LONGEVITY OF VEGETABLE SEEDS

mareriicd......... 2-3
a ee 3
Peetiaiess 1)... ..8-8
Beets—garden . 6- 0
BeHE es... 5.
Breccoli. . Bae
Buckwheat were. Q
Cabbage....... 5-10
(sited Oar 4-5
Cauliflower. .... 5-10
Soy ae 8
Clover, red...... 3
Corn. . asa. 2
Cucumber. . fA 1)
Egg-Plant....... 6
Powe. :-3......< 10
Es ee 2

(Revised from Vilmorin)

Grass, Millet.....
Orchard 2: .
Timothy RS cor.

Niasey tie?
Miustards.. 5225:
Degess eae

—
(@°)
-
a~n
S
Q
:
He t Or OO Or

SO 2 © =F 01 09 OH OO DW WW WD

Parsley: '. + asa
Peas a coy

Pumpkin.: ... 3. .

TESTING SEEDS

Q1
Thunbergia...... 2
Rarentgies 2. i: (ick 2-3
Tritoma bia |
Wimmneat oS se 2-3
Verbena ..2-3
Veronica: 2.0 ae! 2-3
Wins oo ea 1-2
Viola. . ae Sears
W allflower. . . .5-6
Xeranthemum Bae
Jana ss: heron BA
Raper ee! ss. 5
Rhubach 2g 5: 3-8
Rosemary....... 4
Reve...’ Q
DAME) cfs bein 3-7
Delenly: co Zee 2 2-8
mea Kalec... $4 7!: 127
Soy Bean Q
pach. oS 5-7
Squash. . 6-10
Strawberry...... 3-6
Poniates <3. 324 4-7
Turnip. 5-10
Thyme... 3-7
Watermelon 6-10
Wheaten. 5 2: 2
Wormwood...... 4-6

A federal law now in force prohibits the importation of adul-
terated seeds of most of our grasses, besides Alfalfa, Clover and

many cereals.

value are considered adulterations.

Weed seeds as well as seeds of lower commercial
The United States Depart-

ment of Agriculture is doing much to enforce disseminating good
seeds and will test any doubtful samples that may be sent to
them. Each grower may test for impurity and adulterations by
using a small hand-lens.

22 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

Much labor and space are frequently wasted by misjudging the
value of seeds. The best test takes into consideration not only the
percentage of germination but the growth during a whole season
as well as the amount of impurity.

For the germination test, a soup plate may be conveniently
used (see fig. 3). Circles of canton flannel or blotting paper are cut
to fit the plate. By dividing the cloth into four divisions, four
varieties of seed may be tested at one time. Either ten or twenty-
five of the seeds to be tested are counted and placed upon the cloth
which is moistened. The dish is then covered with another plate
to prevent drying. Day by day the number of seeds in each
division that germinate should be counted. If 50 per cent
germinate the seeds must be sown twice as thickly.

Before using the cloth for a second test it should be boiled to kill
molds which will interfere with the results.

Large seed testers may be purchased, which have space for
many kinds of seeds, with which the temperature and moisture
can be perfectly regulated.

Most reliable seedsmen conduct thorough tests of their seeds;
not only germination tests but tests of varieties growing them on
test gardens located in various latitudes. Many firms print a state-
ment of the percentage of germination upon each seed package.

Fig. 3.—Seed testing. A, A soup plate. B, The piece of canton flannel. C, Canton
flannel in plate with seeds in each division. D, The plate covered by another one]

SEEDS 23

TIME TO SOW SEEDS

It is highly important that seeds be sown in season so that the
plants may mature at the proper date for their use or sale.

ANNUALS

Annuals are plants which make their entire growth in one season,
usually producing their bloom and seed before the frost. In the
list following are certain annuals which will stand much cold and
may be sown in the open soil as soon as it can be worked; those
marked with an asterisk (*) are best sown in flats under glass in
late March and later transplanted and sold in small boxes or pots.
Plants marked with a dagger ({) are not easily transplanted; they
are sown where they should bloom. Plants marked (z) are sown also
in June for a later or second crop. The earlier sown annuals are:

Vegetables
Beet Kale Parsley * Spinach; also in
Cabbage*z Kohl-Rabi Parsnip Autumn
Carrot Leek Peat i
Cauliflower*z Lettuce Radish+ Swiss Chard
Celery z Onions Salsify Turnip
Flowers

Alyssum* Dianthus* Morning Glory} Sweet Peas, may
Bachelor’s But- Dimorphotheca Nasturtium* be sown near

ton Hollyhock Petunia* Easter; being
Candytuft* Marigold* Poppyt early.+

Certain other flower seeds may be sown at this time but it is
best to start them in the coldframe or greenhouse because the growth
is slow in the cold soil.

The following annuals are not sown in the open ground until dan-
ger of frost is passed. The plants marked with an asterisk (*) and
intended for sale, benefit by being sown in flats under glass in March.
Plants marked with a dagger ({) are not easily transplanted.

Vegetables
Beans ; Bush, Cornt{ Melont{ Okra
Limaand pole Cucumbert New Zealand Pepper*
sorts f Egg-Plant* Spinach Pumpkinj

Tomato*

24 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

ANNUALS—Concluded

Flowers
Antirrhinum* Clarkia Linum Salvia
Arctotis Collinsia Mexican Sanvitalia*
Balsam Cosmos* Poppyt Scabiosa
Bartoniat Dianthus* Mignonette7 Schizanthus*
Brachycome* Eschscholtziat | Nemesia Statice
Cacalia Gaillardia Nemophila Sunflower
Calendula* Gilia Nierembergia S Sul
Castor Bean* Godetia* Nigella Buca : ie
Celosia Gourds t Nolana Torenia
Centaurea * Gypsophila Phlox* Verbena*
China Aster* Larkspur* Portulaca Virginia Stock
Chrysanthemum — Leptosiphon Salpiglossis* Zinnia *

SOIL FOR SEED SOWING

Soil for sowing seed must always be finely pulverized and in the
best physical condition. A sandy loam suits most seeds the best. Soils
which are too heavy should be lightened by the addition of sand
or even coal ashes. It always pays to use the best soil for starting
the seedlings and if this is not available, where the plants are to
grow permanently, the seed may be sown in a good place and trans-
planted later.

Seed beds, if in the proper physical condition, need no manure.
The young seedlings are not able to take up much food. In fact,
much humus or organic matter may be actually detrimental to the
seeds, even hastening disease.

POTS AND FLATS FOR SOWING SEEDS

When a limited quantity of
plants are wanted, flower pots (see
fig. 4) may be used for seed sowing.
Broken pottery and ashes should fill
the pot half full. The remainder
should consist of finely-sifted soil.
Where it is desired to sow a larger
quantity of seeds, wooden flats (see

YO fig. 5) will be found more useful.

fa So oe er eines aie ak Do a make them much over twelve

by eighteen inches, and three to four

inches deep. Larger flats are cumbersome and when used for more

than one kind of seed, are hardly ever as serviceable because of the

uneven germination. The flats should also be_lined with some
sort of roughage for good drainage.

SEEDS

ras)
Or

The soil must be perfectly level and slightly compacted. Make
the rows from one inch to two inches apart, according to the seed,
and sow the seeds usually from one-quarter inch to an inch apart,
according to the variety. Seeds which are sown too thickly are sure
to cause spindling plants which are difficult to transplant. Only
sow seeds requiring like conditions for germination in the same
flats. For example: Sweet Alyssum sown in the same flat with
Cockscomb is unsuccessful; the Alyssum will be ready for trans-
planting before the Cockscomb is above the soil.

Fig. 5.—Seeds sown in flats (See page 24)

LIGHT AND SEEDS

Most seeds do not prefer light while germinating. In fact,
Larkspur, Adonis and Poppies are somewhat deterred in germina-
tion by bright conditions. It is usually customary, therefore, to
afford some shade to seed beds or pots. Out of doors such shade
is supplied by lath screens; indoors, newspapers placed over the
pots and seed boxes will be serviceable.

SUGGESTIONS FOR SEED SOWING

Plant in rows. It would seem best to sow most seeds in rows or
drills rather than broadcast. (See fig. 5.) By this method they
are easily cultivated for the Sa ee, of weeds, at the same ume
transplanting can be more simply done. ;

DEPTHS OF SEED PLANTING

Deep planting is a common blunder and a great cause of failure.
The supply of oxygen is cut off from the seeds and if the seedlings
are small, difficulties are encountered in trying to push up the heavy
clod above.

26 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

The majority of larger seeds should be covered about two or
three times their diameter, but in the case of outdoor sown seeds
much depends upon the time of the year they are sown.

FIRM THE SOIL

In order to bring the moist soil into contact with the seeds,
the soil should be firmed over the rows by slight pressure of the
hands or with a hoe. In sowing seeds out of doors late in Summer,
this is especially necessary because the soil to some extent, has
lost its moisture.

SOWING VERY FINE SEEDS

An excellent method of getting the best results from very small
seeds is to use a mixture of leaf mold and loam and cover with a thin
layer of sifted sphagnum moss. The seeds are sown on the sphag-
num and are not covered with soil. A pane of glass is placed over
the pot. By this method plenty of moisture is available for good
germination, but later the watering must be diminished.

Such seeds as those of Petunias, Salpiglossis, Ornamental
Tobacco, Begonias, Thyme, Gloxinia, Gesneria, Tydeea, Lobelia,
Mimulus and Calceolaria, may be sown in this manner. The water
should be supplied from below by placing the pot in a pail of water.

When the sphagnum moss is not used, W. N. Craig* suggests
cutting a piece of tissue paper and laying it over the surface of
the soil and watering over this. The paper keeps the seeds from
washing to the side of the pot and prevents the soil from drying out.
The paper decays readily and allows the seedlings to push through
it. For young seedlings to become dry for a few hours in the hot
sun would be fatal and if too much moisture is available there is
danger of decay.

“There is an old-fashioned method} of seed sowing specially
applicable for seeds which are slow in germinating, such as Primulas
and Streptocarpus, though it is also an ideal plan for all fine seeds,
including Begonias, and as the writer first saw it in operation many
years ago in an old lady’s window, he designates it Grandmother's
Method of Seed Sowing.

It is simplicity itself, while results are almost certain.

One and one-half inches of fine soil is placed on top of an ordinary
building brick, pressing the soil fairly firm. Sow the seed thinly, and
very fine seed must only be slightly pressed into the soil, or covered

* Craig, W. or Seed Sowing Suggestions. From Trans. of Mass. Hort. Society, Part I,
1917, p. 2
} Suggestions for Seed Sowing, published by W. Atlee Burpee & Co.

SEEDS

ww
~

not more than one-sixteenth of aninch. The brick is then placed in
a large plate, or flat, containing one inch or so of water, which will
keep the brick and soil continually moist, thus eliminating the danger
of washing out the seed or of the soil becoming dust dry, as so often
happens when using pots or boxes.

It is well, however, to guard against overwatering; therefore, if
the soil at times appears to be too wet, remove the brick from the
water for a few hours until it partly dries out.”

WATERING

Great care should be exercised in watering, not only because the
seed may be washed out of the drills, but excess water may cause
the spread of the damping-off fungus. This disease is especially
bad when the seedlings lack air. Small dribblings applied fre-
quently, rather than proper applications of water at needed intervals,
cause the formation of a crust which will interfere with the ease
of germination; later it will cause an unbalanced and shallow root
system.

TIME REQUIRED FOR GERMINATION

Seeds vary greatly in the number of days required for germina-
tion. Many gardeners make a grave blunder by discarding a seed
bed before an opportunity has been given the seed to come up under
normal conditions. As new seeds will often germinate more
rapidly than older ones, when old and new seeds are mixed the seed-
lings may continue to germinate for weeks.

Many of the first seedlings of florists’ flowers are the strongest
and the poorest in floral quality. The gardener is careful to save
the later and more puny seedlings, for they are often the doubles
and the finer or newer colors. This is especially true of Petunias
and Primroses. T.D. Hatfield} writes: “Among Rhododendrons
the first in a batch to bloom are always the strongest growers and
the poorest in flower.”

Refer to the following table for the number of days required
for germination of flower seeds:

Number of Days Required For Germination.

Days Days Days

Abvelon. 5a. +. .¢20 Area tum. .\s'eeeriaia: 5 AMemA. clas see 15
Acroclinium........ 15 Alvpmilnes soo: 2o4 of 5 Arctotis grandis. . .20
African Golden Ammpeélopsis ;< .. 72% 15 Asparagus.........30
MURS os hare Sick Hs Anchusa. . . 20 PRPOTS oss Gc dates 8
Agapanthus........ 20 Anemone, St. Brigid15 Asters, Perennial . .15
Agatheea coelestis. ..20 Antirrhinum gia i oa 20 Baby’s Breath..... 20

7 Hatfield, T. D. Bethe Used in Propagation of Planta: From Trans. of Mass.
Hort. Soc. ., 1916, p. 10

28 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

NUMBER OF DAYS REQUIRED FOR GERMINATION—Continued

Days
Ballot bine... Vas als
Bachelor’s Button. .*5
Balloon Vine.......25
Balsamst 2). ce 10
Beconiass. 5) been 15
Bellis perennis..... 5
Boston ivy... 20. . 15

Blanket Flower... ..20
Blue-eyed Daisy... .20
Blue Day Flower.. .20

Blue Salvia....... a 5.
Brachycome....... 8
Brazilian Morning
ORY. etek ste 8
Browulhia.: |... che. 20

Brugmansia arboreald
Bush Eschscholtzia. 8

Butterfly Pea...... Ls
(CAPUIS: 4 fe ca" oU)
Calendula 2.0.5 2% 10
California Poppy... 8
Campanula. ..222, 8
Canary-bird Flower. *
Candy tlt..:.....2 <%.- 5
Canning: .... 240/338" *15

Canterbury Bells. .*15
Cardinal Climber... 5

@arnations. 4504. 8
Carnations, Per-

MONE eae Oe Sebo 8
Castor Beans...... 155
MelOsine ney: hee 20
Centaurea foe: st)
Centrosema........ 15
Chinese Bellflower. .30
Christmas Orchid

LO Were ee 20
Chrysanthemums... 5
Ciparpblants,. ah2.4 ¥*8
CMerarian is re toe 5
Clematis, Tuber-

OU Seen eet. v ere. kane *30

Cleome pungens... .20
Cobeea scandens... .15

Coekscomb:.!¢. 2. 20
Coix lachryma..... +
Coles. ya ee 20
Columbines..02.3. 15
Commelblng? chest 10
Coreopsis... sn 20
Cornflower Aster... *
@osnias..5. co. : ee 5
Crimson Flax...... 8
Clopmed. |. 53k. Hee *S
Cyclamen... 5.4.8; 25

Days
Cyperus alterni-
foOlWUS. © 2 eee oc Dey
Cypress Vine...... a
Dahhass =. eC ot 5
Daisiesest n> 2... 20
Wa tras hase seas Ae
pee. tee So) 15
Dianthus. . Cae rae
Digitalis. . 20)
Dimorphotheca. . wis
Dolichos. . oh aay (c5)
Dusty Miller...... .*5
Echinocystis..... .*30
English Double
Daisy. . hate ae
Eschscholtzia...... iy
Euphorbia. «.2- 8. 220

Evening Primrose... 5
Everlasting Flowers. *
Feverfew.. 720)
Fire-Cracker Plant..*8
Fire-on-the-Moun-

tain. ee ee 0)
Forgetmenot. SE ies
Fours O}@lockew. 8 5
oxo OW.er eee ee 20
IRWChSias eee ee *30
Gaillardia .'. 24245 2. 20
Geranwimss.-- 6... 20
Gloxinia. 2s 4 LS
Godetaaccy Shyer. 15
Gourdss4-8. 26 Saeko
iS TASSASCEO a «osc. *
Gypsophila........20
Iiehianthuss: =... ahd
Helichrysum. me
Heliotrope. 215
Heuchera sanguinea 20
ELI bIScuse eee lbs
Hollyhocke.. 7 -5.. ; 5
Hop, Japanese..... 15
Horn of Plenty. ...: 5)
Humble Plant.. Ss
Hunnemannia... So aS
Hyacinth Bean,

Japanese: 7.4.2... 15
Ice Plant.. net
Impatiens Sultani. .15
Tpomiteas ss... fs. 22 5
Tiss ee ee ee *5U
Ivies.. a
Jack-and- the-Bean-

S72) | aa a a ess
Japanese Bean.....15
Japanese Hop...... 15

Days
Japan nis Sere *50
Jerusalem Cherry. +20
JOM SMearsac soe
Kenilworth Ivy.... 5
Kochia scoparia... .15
Kudaw Vine... 220 15
Mantiananee cae 15
Larkspurse: coe 15
Lathytus. 22:7 25
Lavender... eee 20:
Lemon Verbena.... 8
Linaria.. i.e >
Linum: 3.4 2) ee Ss
iLobelias:...9..23 sae S
Love-in-a-Mist..... 8
Lrychnis... :....3.anee
Mallow Marvels. .*15
Marncold: 32a a
Marvel of Peru.... 5
Maurandia........ *25
Mexican Fire Plant .20
Mesembryanthe-
TUN. ah; ee *5
Mignonette........ 9
Mimosa’: . 2 aqme 5
Mimoultis 2 screenees 8
Mina lobata.. oss Dd
Mirabils:> ieee 5
Monkey Flower... .20
Moonvines.........20
Morning Glory..... 5

Mountain Hen

suckle. . ee.)
Mourning Bride... .20
Musk Plant. _ 20
Nasturtium, Dwarf

Tall .... anu eee 8
Nicotiana... -..20). 2.20
Nigellacc isn ooh eee
@inotherm eee 5
Ornamental Grasses *
Ostrich-Plume...... 20
Oxalis.. 55 eeree
‘Palm’. eee 15
Painted pees i pans) 2
Pansies. . : Sates
Passion Flower. ae 50
Peas,Sweet. )#.0427 15
Pelargoniums...... 20
Pentstemons. 4. 2ea.20
Perennial Peas.....25
Retunias?ee ee 20
Pheasant-Eye Pink. 5
Phlox: 2h3e eee 20
Pinke 4 Ga ee a eee >

* Indicates an indefinite number of days.

SEEDS 29

NUMBER OF DAYS REQUIRED FOR GERMINATION—Concluded

Days Days Days
Pistyeodon,.......: *30 Schizanthus........20 Sweet Sultan....... *5
Poppies... 2.6... 20 Sensitive Plant... .20 Sweet William..... 10
Portulaca......... .20 Shasta Daisy.......20 Ten-Weeks Stocks.. 5
iptimroses.........*15 RUTAMLE ete er h S ED Umbrella Plant..... 25
Primwmlas:.%.. 5)... *15 Snapdragon.. BAA) Verbena: sai for 8
Pueraria Thun- Solanum. . _...*20 Vinee oc ks eee me

DETPIANA. 6254s. La Spider Plant... eu Wiolas? ii eens
Ragged Robin.... . .20 SL 0) C132 Re ee ny Ala) ey A: ee pe Dean *
Pears... = se PES Bramesia oe, oS ee * Wallflower......... 5

cs eee ea re Te cs Straw Flower...... 5 Water Lilies....... a
Frose, Wioss..... 2... 20 Summer Bush Cy- Wedding Bells. .... 15
Salpiglossis hie eda iF press. ere: 5 Wild Cucumber
Salvia. Heart idl s Wc Ia Sunflower. MD eaten a 15) Wome soe ad Sh re *30
Seabiosa.. ih Were hahecqe 6 20 Sun Plant......... 20 Youth and Old Age. 5

let Runner..... 8 Swan River Daisy.. 8 Br te eo eae bs Ite *
se 5 Cee aes gt Ui Sweet Peas........ 15 Wkanjage tee ers. a

From the Catalog of Conard & Jones Co., West Grove, Pa.

* Indicates an indefinite number of days.

SPECIAL TREATMENTS FOR GERMINATION

Certain seeds germinate very. slowly when left to the ordinary
methods of treatment. For example, in sowing seeds of Parsley
and Celery the rows should be covered with burlap which will con-
serve the moisture and hasten germination.

SOAKING SEEDS

Garden seeds, especially Beans, Peas, Beets, Squash, Cucumbers,
Celery, Parsley, and Parsnips, are soaked in water. Such soaking
should only be continued until the seed coats are softened; further
soaking injures the seeds, causing them to decay when sown in
the moist soil. Proper soaking hastens germination and is beneficial,
but it is better not to soak them at all than to allow them to
remain in water too long.

CANNA SEED

Canna seed is as hard as shot. F. P. Avery describes an ex-
perience with starting seed. He says: ““March 22d I received some
seed. I have access to an emery wheel, and I ground down to the
white meat on every seed. That same evening I poured hot water
on them, and kept them in hot water until the evening of March
27th, giving the seeds a five days’ bath. I found four seeds showing

30 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

a white germ the size of a pin-head. I put the lot in a big dish of
sand, covering them about an inch. The dish stood in a hot place
over a stove, where the seeds luxuriated in bottom heat and had
hot sunshine. Fifteen days after I put the seeds to soak there were
more than two hundred plants, averaging two inches in height.”
Instead of using an emery wheel, the seeds are frequently nicked
with a file.

ACID AND ALKALI TREATMENTS

The bony covered seeds are frequently treated with weak acids
which serve to soften the seed coat. If Raspberry or Blackberry
seeds are soaked in vinegar their germination will be hastened.
Sweet Peas are treated with sulphuric acid, commercial strength,
for half an hour, then thoroughly washed. Old seeds or those with
a very hard coat will frequently germinate after this treatment
when they would not otherwise. In the Agricultural News of Bar-
badoes, West Indies, we read: “If seeds are treated with chlorine
water (two drops of chlorine to 60 c.c. of water) and then stood in
the sun, they will germinate completely in six hours. The seeds
must be removed from the chlorine water, and washed, however,
directly the radicle appears. Chlorine has a decomposing effect
on water in the presence of light, breaking it up into hydrogen and
oxygen, and the rapid germination is due to the action of the nascent
oxygen liberated by the chlorine. Hard seeds need a preliminary
soaking in water before steeping them in chlorine solution. Alka-
line substances, e. g., ammonia, soda, etc., in highly dilute solution,
also aid the process of germination.

Another curious method consists in watering the seeds with a
solution of formic acid (1 in 5000) at a temperature of 25° to 30° C.
This treatment dissolves the integument, and plants which normally
require eight or ten days will germinate in as many hours.

In some experiments carried out last year in France, and de-
scribed in Le Jardin, seeds of Radishes and other Cruciferae were
made to germinate in less than eight minutes by plunging them in
hot water, and then laying them between rags soaked in boiling
water in a small flower pot nearly filled with moist. earth, and kept
at a warm temperature.”

AQUATICS FROM SEED

Certain seeds of aquatic plants when not kept in water must be
artificially treated by acid or nicking. Sow each seed in a separate
thumb pot, submerging the pots in tanks of warm water. Many

SEEDS 31

of the sorts, if started in early Spring, flower the first year. Seeds
of the following water plants should be treated as suggested:
Acorus (Sweet Flag), Aponogeton (includes Ouvirandra, the Lace
Leaf), Cabomba (Prince’s Feather), Caltha (Marsh Marigold),
Cyperus (Sedges and Umbrella Palm Grass), Eichhornia (Water
Hyacinth), Limnanthemum (Floating Heart), Limnocharis (Water
Poppy), Ludwigia, Nelumbium (Egyptian Lotus), Nymphxa (Pond
Lily), Orontitum (Golden Club), Pontederia (Pickerel Weed), Sagit-
taria (Arrowhead), Typha (Cattail) and Zizania (Water Oats).

Many of these seeds may be sown in larger pots as other per-
ennials but they should be submerged.

Geo. W. Oliver writes: “Seeds of the Gigantic Water Lily,
Victoria regia, should be sown in February in the warmest house.
The*water must be clean and free from the lower forms of aquatic
growth. The seeds should be sown in thumb pots, one to a pot.
The first leaves of the seedling Victoria are grass-like, then halberd-
shaped, but eventually assume the peltate form. In Washington
when properly grown the leaves of the seedling should be 12 inches
in diameter by the 10th of May.

Many attempts to grow this, the queen of Water Lilies, are frus-
trated because the young plants are taken from a warm temperature
and placed in water out of doors, the temperature of which is much
below that of the hothouse. To grow the Victoria successfully the
receptacle for the plant should be large enough to hold at least
several cartloads of rich soil and hold a good sized frame and sash
on top of the soil. The water in the frame by this device will be
kept warm and the young plants will develop rapidly by this treat-
ment. When the plant has made a start the frame and sash are
removed.

Subsequent attempts to grow this queen of aquatics without
the protecting frame always resulted in poorly developed plants.
When a good flower of the Victoria opens about Midsummer or later
save some of the pollen from it and dust it over the stigmas of the
succeeding flowers. This will result in the ripening of many seeds.

The size of this plant, the first one grown in Washington, was
much larger than any other plant grown out of doors in this country,
the diameter being 6 ft. 6 inches. During the following Summer
the frame was discarded and the result was a much smaller Victoria.”’

SOWING SEEDS OF PERENNIAL FLOWERS

For sowing the seeds of perennial flowers, coldframes are used.
The seeds are sown in rows about six inches apart. After sowing, the
frames should be watered and the soil mulched with cut grass or a

32 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

layer of finely sifted, well decayed, manure. This mulch will serve
to keep the soil from drying out, thus preventing the formation of
a crust over the seeds. If the manure is used it will supply the
seedlings with food.

Many perennials bloom the first year from seed; these may be
sown in early Spring (see list p. 139). The other sorts, of which
plants are wanted for the succeeding year but which are not expected
to bloom during the current season, are sown in July or August.
The late sown perennials will be just germinating during the hot,
dry season; moisture must be supplied and some kind of screen
(see figs. 7 and 8) used to shade the bed, especially, when the seed-
lings are very small.

The seedlings when transplanted may be placed in 2 inch or
21% inch pots or they may be planted in frames (see fig. 6). If
the rows are planted 5 inches apart ample room for their growth is
available by removing, from alternate rows, the plants for Fall or
early Spring sale. Some of the perennials remaining in the frames
may be left to bloom as the rows will then be 10 inches apart.

- = ——.,
= — = SS ~

Fig. 6.—Coldframe for sowing perennials. The first and second sections are provided
with sashes, the third has a lath screen for shade and the fourth is covered with a
straw mat for Winter protection

FLORISTS’ SEED TIME TABLE

Acanthophoenix. Many remain two years before germination. 70°.

Ageratum. February. In flats.

Annuals, half hardy for bedding. March. Sown in flats or pots.
Hardy. April, or later out of doors.

Antirrhinum. February and March for outdoor plants; April for

Winter bloom. .

Ardisia. Early Spring.

Areca lutescens. January or when seed can be procured. 75° to 80°.

Asparagus. February or any time. Sow in flats.

Asters. March or April. Coldframe.

SEEDS 33

FLORISTS’ SEED TIME TABLE— Continued,

Begonia semperflorens. January and February in flats or pots; use
leaf mold in the soil.
Bellis. August. Incoldframe. Give shade until seedlings are well up.
Buddleia. February cuttings are preferred.
Calceolaria. January and February or June. (See p. 26.)
Carludovica. Same as Kentia.
Castor Bean. April and May. Sow each seed in separate pot.
Centaurea. January and February. Use flats and light soil.
Cineraria, First sowing, May.
Second sowing, August 15.
Last sowing, September 15. (See p. 26.)
Cocos Weddelliana. January. In flats.
Cyclamen. July to January. Use leaf mold and light soil. Flats.
Drdatzna indivisa. February. Sandy soil. 65°.
Dusty Miller. January to March. Light soil.
English Daisy. (See Bellis.)
Gesneria. January. (See p. 26.)
Gloxinia. January to February. In flats. (See p. 26.)
Grevillea. December to March. In flats.
Hollyhock. July. Flats.
Jerusalem Cherry. January to March. In flats.
Kentia. July. In greenhouse. 75° to 80°.
Mignonette. March to April, in pots in greenhouse; April to May, in
field; August, for Winter forcing.
Myosotis. August 15. In coldframe.
Pansy. August 1-10. In coldframe.
Perennials. Mayto August. In flats or coldframe. (See pp. 30 and 139.)
Primroses, obconica (early and second sowing). Early sowing, March.
Second, in May.
chinensis. April.
malacoides. June.
Salvia. February. In flats.
Schizanthus. September to November.
Smilax. February to April. In flats.
Solanum. February. In flats.
Sweet Peas. According to Dr. A. C. Beal, who has given extensive
study to the Winter-flowering Sweet Peas, seed sown:

LAUT US| Oa 4 | co a blooms Christmas

Peptember: 125). oS tS sf January

Pepiember (520.8 soe. fe Main crop February
165 0101S) ae eae ieee ae f March

Wowemlber.. 268.22. 2.2. a Latter part of March
Weecemtmeiys. oo) sees ae April

Pamtbar yi. ous es. Bs. Ss “ April to May
CICA N oo hc UAh ss Steed ae From May on

[10 de a ee Clea pe May and June

Verbena. February. In flats.

Vinca rosea. Late August. Sow in frame; or sow in December indoors.
Winter indoors in flats or pot in 2-in. pots.

Violas, bedding. August. In coldframe.

34 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

SHRUB AND TREE SEEDS

When the fruits of many of the berried or juicy fruited shrubs are
thoroughly ripened, they should be gathered and placed so that the
mass of berries may ferment. This will allow the pulp to be washed
from the seeds.

In this group we are especially thinking of the Hawthorn,
Regel’s Privet, Rhodotypos, Roses, Barberries, Boston Ivy, Euo-
nymus and Viburnums. ‘The seeds are often sown immediately in
flats, placed in coldframes and in many cases are subjected to the
Winter freezings which will soften and crack their seed coats. Some
growers prefer to wait until February before subjecting the seeds to
the frost. This method is known as stratification.

Sand is frequently used instead of soil as the material in which
to sow the seeds. When the ground can be worked in the Spring
the seeds are sifted from the sand and sown in rows. If planting
is delayed the seeds will have sprouted and will suffer injury by
handling.

Maples, Ailanthus, Birch, Catalpa, Chestnut, Beech, Ash,
Hickory, Butternut, Locust, Black Walnut, and Basswood should
be stratified. Besides these trees, the seeds for raising stocks of
Apples, Cherries, Peaches and Plums are also subjected to the frost.

Jenkins in the “‘Art of Propagation” gives excellent notes on the
practice of raising trees from seed. He writes: “As a general rule,
forest trees, and many other seeds, should be planted in the Fall
soon after they ripen, or, if reserved for Spring planting, should be
mixed with earth, moss, leaves, or other material, to prevent
drying; imitating, in a measure, the conditions and protection as
observed in nature.

For seeds of the nut-bearing tree class, as Acorns, Chestnut,
Hickory, black and white Walnut, the open field, if of mellow, rich
soil, makes a good and sufficient seed bed.

wit: awit SIND WIM. Wah in
ANS iw Ay

——w | = = a

Ww |

Fig. 7.—An excellent method of having a screen which can be rolled over the
seedlings in a coldframe

SEEDS 35

After the ground is thoroughly cultivated, mark out with a plow
as for Corn or Potatoes, planting the seeds closely in the light
furrows or drills.

The drills may be made at any convenient distance. If cul-
tivated with a hoe they need be but a foot apart; but, unless
cramped for room, they had better be sown in broader drills, and the
drills three or four feet apart, so that the space between them may
be stirred with the horse hoe or cultivator.

If the planting is done in the Fall, it is better to mulch the
eround with straw, leaves, marsh-hay, or any like material; this will
prevent baking of the soil after the Spring rains, and keep it in a
nice mellow condition. The mulching should be removed in the
Spring, or, at least so much that it will not interfere with the
aaah of the young seedlings.

The smaller seeds, such as Maple, White Ash, Tulip, Linden,
Magnolia, etc., require greater care in planting.

Let the soil be thoroughly pulverized, then throw up into beds
a few feet wide, and any desirable length. Mark out and plant
in drills by placing a board across the bed, making the drill along
the edge of the board with a sharpened stick, or, with the corner
of the hoe; then sow the seed in the drill as you would Peas, or Beet
seed; cover lightly, and then turn forward the board for a new drill.
The width of the board regulates the distance apart of the drills, and
as such seedlings are not usually allowed to grow more than one year
before transplanting, the board need not be more than eight or ten
inches wide. Mulch with straw if planted in the Fall, removing the
same in the Spring.

Gathering of Tree Seeds. Seeds of the nut-bearing trees are
easily gathered, but with Maple and other small seeds, gathering
from the ground is exceedingly tiresome. Many of the small seeds,
when fully ripe, may be shaken from the tree on large sheets of
canvas spread underneath.

With Maples, if the tree can be spared it may be cut down when
the seed is nearly ripe and first begins to fall. They can be rapidly
stripped from the branches by hand. On small trees they may
often be gathered from the branches without cutting the tree. In
gathering, after they have fallen on the ground, the leaves must
first be raked off, and the seed gathered up mainly by hand picking.

Tulip seed is gathered when the cones first begin to open. The
cones, which are made up of seeds, are usually picked from the tree
by an active climber. Our northern Magnolia acuminata seed
grows in pods, closely resembling a young green Cucumber; hence
the name, Cucumber Tree. These pods may be gathered after they

36 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

have turned a red or pink color, and begin to open, showing the red
seeds. Spread them out in the air after they are gathered. Ina
few days the seed is readily shelled out.”

SCALDING SEEDS

Seeds which are not affected by freezing are frequently scalded.
Boiling water is poured over them and allowed to cool. This
process is used with Honey Locust, the Kentucky Coffee Tree and
Chorizema.

CONIFERS FROM SEED

Few American nurserymen grow Evergreen seedlings. More
profit is usually gained by importing them from countries where
labor is cheaper and the climate is more generally suited to them.
There is, however, a real need for the small nurseryman to sow a few
flats of certain kinds. Evergreen seeds may be sown in the green-
house in the Autumn which will make a larger plant by the following
Autumn than those sown out of doors. Such seedlings should be
transplanted either in small pots or flats.

The greenhouse may be shaded during the Summer, in which
case the seedlings may be kept indoors during the Summer. Lath-
sheds or frames covered with
lath or cloth screens (see figs.
7 and 8), will also be useful.
During the Winter a protection
of partially decayed leaves
should be given. The following
Spring the seedlings may be set
in the field or kept in the
frames for another year.

When the seeds are sown in
seed beds rather than in the
greenhouse, the beds are best

Fig. 8.—-Convenient shading for young : é

seedlings. especially Borab and eYeree up. covered with burlap to retain

Note that frame is hinged so that it can oe b .

be turned back when watering or caring moisture and keep out animal
for the plants pests.

The following conifers are grown from seed:

Abies Cryptomeria Picea Retinispora
Biota Juniper Pine Sciadopitys
Cedrus Larix Pseudolarix Taxus

Chameecyparis Libocedrus — Pseudotsuga Thuya

SEEDS 37

In raising seedlings of Picea pungens, the Colorado Blue Spruce,
many of the plants are not of the desired deep blue. These must be
discarded because even from the best plants the seed does not come
perfectly true.

In sowing seeds of Juniperus virginiana, the Red Cedar, Joseph
Meehan writes that the best success is obtained when “‘seeds were
planted in the Fall, twelve months after being gathered. When
planted in early Spring, eighteen months after being gathered, there
always seemed to be a big loss. I have for three years in succession
sowed one part in Fall and the other part in early Spring. The seeds
were all the same and all stratified in the same manner, but the Fall
sown were always far the better. In the main, this agrees with
what is known of Juniper, Holly and other seeds in what refers to its
takimg a year for the seeds to be in the ground before germinating,
but the point that it is better to sow in the Autumn rather than in
Spring is not well known, and this will be of value to those who
have such seeds to sow.

The best plan to follow is to procure the seeds as soon as ripe,
mix them with fine soil and place outdoors, letting them remain until
the following Autumn. Then separate the seeds from the soil, if
possible; if not, sow all as it is. The next Spring should see the
seedlings appear. There is no use in sowing at once as soon as
gathered, assome do. This means a wait of a year for the seedlings,
and, in the meantime, the waste of the ground for a year and the
loss of time in keeping the bed free from weeds has to be considered.”’

DAMPING-OFF OF CONIFER SEEDLINGS

Many seedlings of conifers are killed by the damping-off fungus
even before they make their appearance above the seed bed. Poor
germinations are frequently due to this cause rather than to inferior
seed. Evergreen seed ranges from fifty cents a pound for yellow
Pine to two or four dollars for the native Spruces and five to ten
dollars for Norway Pine.

Useful facts are given by Hartley and Pierce in ‘‘Professional
Paper No. 453” of the United States Department of Agriculture.

Following is the summary of the 32-page bulletin devoted to
this topic:

(1) By damping-off is meant the killing of very. young seedlings
by parasitic fungi. It is the most serious difficulty encountered in
raising coniferous seedlings.

(2) To decrease losses from the disease excessive moisture and
shade should be avoided. Caution must be used in following this

38 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

recommendation or many seedlings may be killed by drought or
by white-spot injury to the base of the stem. Damping-off can
often be decreased by putting beds on very sandy soil. Seed should
not be sown any thicker than necessary. It appears better to sow
broadcast than in drills. Late Fall sowing results in decreased
losses at some nurseries and is worth trial. Proper attention to all
of these measures will decrease the losses from damping-off, but
at most nurseries they are not sufficient really to control the disease.

(3) The addition of lime, wood ashes, and in some cases nitro-
genous fertilizers seems to increase damping-off. Soil alkalinity
appears to favor the disease. No effect has been noted from green
manures. The use of unrotted stable manure has had very bad
results; properly rotted manures seem less objectionable. Tank-
age, charcoal, and cane sugar are the only nondisinfectant sub-
stances which have to date given any hope of disease control.

(4) Soil disinfection has so far proved the best method of combat-
ing damping-off. Of many methods tested, treatments with
sulphuric acid, copper sulphate, zinc chlorid, and formaldehyde
have proved the most satisfactory. The disinfectants, however,
behave quite differently at different nurseries. The acid has on
the whole given the best results. Heat disinfection has been only
partly effective. Disinfection by acid or copper sulphate is cheaper
than by the other methods commonly recommended.

(5) In addition to decreasing damping-off after the seedlings
come up, the chemical disinfectants above mentioned, when properly
used, cause an increase in the apparent germination and are very
helpful in controlling weeds. This latter effect alone at some
nurseries pays the entire expense of the treatment. Sulphuric acid
has, furthermore, at some places resulted in marked increases in the
late season growth of Pines.

(6) In some soils formaldehyde kills dormant seed, and the other
three most satisfactory disinfectants at some nurseries kill the root
tips of germinating seedlings. By proper precaution, all such
injury may be prevented.

(7) The results obtained to date show that it is entirely possible
and practicable to control damping-off by soil disinfection. Un-
fortunately, the varying behavior of disinfectants at different places
renders it impossible to recommend any single treatment which
will be everywhere successful.

BROAD LEAVED EVERGREENS

Rhododendrons, Kalmias, Andromedas, Callunas, Ericas and
Azaleas are best sown in a mixture of peat and sandy loam over

SEEDS 39

which is placed a thin layer of screened sphagnum moss. The seed
is sown over the moss and covered by glass. Give a temperature
of about 55 degrees.

When they attain some size they are transplanted to frames
out of doors and in the Winter given a shading and protection.

EASTER LILIES FROM SEEDS

Geo. W. Oliver, of the United States Department of Agri-
culture, who has conducted many experiments upon raising Easter
Lilies from seed, writes as follows:

‘Seeds of the Easter Lily are not for sale by any of the seedsmen
so far as known, therefore it must be produced as wanted by the
erower. This is not attended by any serious difficulty, provided
the grower knows what to do at the proper time. The plants
selected as seed bearers should be strong and absolutely free from
disease. This condition will be indicated by the absence of dis-
coloration of any kind on the foliage.

To produce seeds of the best quality the mother bulbs should
be planted out in beds, where they are less liable to be neglected
in watering. It is preferable not to use the pollen on its own
stigmas but on the stigmas of a separate plant. Several hundred
good seeds may be secured from each plant. All of the flowers on
a plant will set seeds if the stigmas are pollinated, but three or four
capsules to a good sized plant will give larger and better filled seed
capsules and make stronger seedlings. .

The seed should be sown during August in boxes. Allow three
leaves to develop before putting the seedlings in two-inch pots
then shift to three-inch when they have five or more leaves. By
the middle of February they should be put in five inch pots and
placed in an open frame as soon as the weather permits. Those
which show signs of flowering in May should be thrown out. During
August the strong plants should be in seven inch pots.

When cool weather sets in, the sashes should be put on, giving
air as they require it. These plants should be at their best by
Easter. If everything goes well most of the plants should give
from 25 to over 30 flowers per plant (see figs. 9 and 39). The
highest number we have secured on one plant was 37. If liquid
manure be given occasionally the flowers will be much larger than
those produced by the foreign grown seedling bulbs.

The results arising from the use of American field-grown bulbs
of the Easter Lily are not always as satisfactory as they should be.
It has been the practice of bulb growers to burn the candle at both

40 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

Fig. 9.—Easter Lily grown from seed. The photograph was taken seventeen months
from seed sowing (See page 39)

SEEDS 41

ends; that is, to dispose of the flowers and, later on, the bulbs. In
order that the field-grown flowers may command good prices it
is necessary to cut considerable length of stem and leaves along with
the flowers. The consequence is that the bulbs do not mature
as well as they would if the leaves were left on the plant until
the maturity of the bulb, and the result of this practice is always.
unsatisfactory.

If the seedling method is given a fair trial the Lily will pay
handsomely. I understand the seedling bulbs grown in Japan are
always disbudded to give strength to the bulb. But in so far as I
have seen this is not always the case in Bermuda.”

CACTUS FROM SEED

Most Cactus seed is very fertile but few growers have known how
to have the best conditions for germination and growth. Chas. H.
Thompson* has determined the proper method.

The best soil consists of equal parts of a well decayed sod and
pure sand. The soil should not be rich in humus because this is
a medium for germs of decay. Four-inch pots are used. They
should either be new or else carefully burned or sterilized, otherwise
Algee will choke out the young seedlings. The drain hole at the
bottom of the pot should be enlarged and the pot filled one-fourth
full of finely broken pots, on which the soil is carefully placed and
pressed lightly.

The seeds are sown and cauied with a very thin layer of soil
upon which is spread a one-fourth inch layer of gravel. The gravel
will serve to keep the soil from washing, facilitates the passage of
moist air and by shading prevents the surface soil from drying.
When the seedlings grow they force their way through the gravel
and for some time appear small and globular. They are tender,
juicy and readily damp-off. The temperature should be about
70 degrees. Transplant into flats of same soil when several spines
have formed on the plants.

SAVING SEED FROM DESIRABLE PLANTS

The normal flower of a plant must have at least two parts, the
male part (see fig. 10), or the stamens which are the pollen bearers,
and the female part, or the pistil which has an ovary at its base
and will bear the seeds. A flower may have brightly colored petals,
but these are not necessary for seed production.

* Thompson, Chas. H. Ornamental Cacti; Their Culture and Decorative Value.
U.S. Dept. of Agr. Bur. of Plant Industry, Bulletin 262.

42 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

Fig. 10.—Section of typical flower. P, Petal, all the petals taken together is the

corolla. S, Sepal, the sepals taken together is the calyx. ST, Stamen, the male

part of the flower; AN, the pollen producing part or anther; FI, the filament or

thread-like portion. PI, Pistil, the female part of the flower. STI, its sticky stigma

which receives the pollen; O, the ovary which bears the seeds. R, Receptacle, a
portion often making part of a fruit (See page 41)

re

Teter ier

if ' ae Ny

: aS B

Fig. 11.—Squash blossoms. A, The female flower; note the bulge beneath the corolla;

this is the undeveloped Squash. B, The male flower. All such plants as Melons,
Cucumbers, Gourds and Pumpkins Lear these sorts of flowers (See page 43)

SEEDS 43

For every seed which grows in a seed pod there must have beena ,
pollen grain upon the pistil. In the Orchid where thousands of
seeds are produced, thousands of pollen grains must have lodged
upon the pistil.

Some plants do not need to be crossed or pollinated; as an
example, Beans, Sweet Peas and such flowers are so constituted that
the pollen is shed on the pistil and seed is formed. In the Cucumbers
and Squashes certain flowers are male and others are female (see
fig. 11). No seed is produced unless a bee or a man places some
pollen from the male flower upon the pistil of the female. In other
words, the flowers which some persons have called sterile flowers
in the Cucumber are just as essential as the other flowers. In the
Corn plant the pollen is produced by the tassel and falls on the silks;
any silk which does not receive a grain of pollen fails to produce a
kernel of corn.

When the grower notices a particularly superior plant, let us
say a fine Cyclamen of good colors and excellent habit of plant,
the best method to use is to take pollen from one flower on the
plant and place it on the pistil of another. It is best not to depend
on its producing seed without pollinating. Pollination may be

i

hi

Fig. 12.—A Daisy-like flower. A, A head of pot Marigold. Note that this is nota

single flower, but a bunch of small florets, the showy sorts at the outside are ray

florets; those toward the center are tubular and called disc florets. The ray florets

are often only female flowers, but the disc florets are bisexual. ,B, A ray floret. Note

the two forked stigma of the pistil, the single petal and the large ovary. C, A disc

floret. Note the feathery stigma of the pistil; the ring of stamens surrounding the
pistil, and the five parted corolla (See page 44)

44 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

_ carried on with a camel’s hair brush, or the whole flower may be
picked and shaken over the other flower.

Better results will be attained by most persons if the above
method is used rather than trying to cross two different plants.
Crossing diverse plants will give surprising results, but they are not
always commercial. Hybridizing is a different process from saving
seed of a known good variety. The good variety may, frequently,
be intensified by crossing it upon itself or upon another flower on the
same plant.

In saving seeds of Asters, Cinerarias, Gerberas, Calendula,
Cosmos, Ageratum and all the Daisy-like flowers, merely place a
bag over the flower and it will ripen its seed without crossing. Each
Daisy-like flower (see fig. 12) is really a bunch of small flowers which
will shed pollen upon each other.

Do not make the mistake of saving seeds of Lettuce, Radishes
or Celery from any plant which goes to seed too rapidly. It is apt
to inherit this quality. The fact that the Radish often seeds so
rapidly is due to its not producing a good root. We grow Radishes
for the root, not the seed.

Seed should thoroughly mature before gathering and must be
kept rather cool in storage.

DIOECIOUS PLANTS

The following plants have the two sexes on separate plants.
Unless both sorts of plants are in close proximity no seeds nor
fruits are produced. Plants of this sort are called dioecious.

AiLANTHus. Male flowers have objectionable odor; only female trees
should be propagated.

BroussonetiA. Male plants produce flowers in pendulous catkins,
greenish in color; female plants produce the flowers in globular
heads, showing purplish hairs until August, when the surface becomes
dotted with orange pustules a quarter of an inch long.

CERCIDIPHYLLUM. Both male and female flowers are very small;
inconspicuous. The female tree is more beautiful, being very
spreading; the male is columnar, according to F. Canning.

CHIONANTHUS. Only certain plants bear fruits.

Cycas. The male flower is a cone-like structure; female flowers
are clusters of modified leaves (see figs. 13 and 14).

ExL@aGnus. Certain bushes are sterile, although the flowers bear
both sexes.

GARRYA ELLIPTICA. Greenish white male catkins; ornamental. Black
berries are also showy.

SEEDS

45

DIOECIOUS PLANTS——Concluded

Fig. 14.—Female flower of Cycas revoluta.
The ovules are borne in the notches of the
deeply cut, modified leaves

GinkGo. Male trees only should be propa-
gated; female fruits smell badly.

HiepopHar. Without both sexes planted
together, the beautiful fruit display is lost.

IpesiA. Flowers are greenish yellow; fra-
grant. Male flowers 14 inch across; the

female flowers 13 inch. Fruit in Septem-
ber. Orange red and very showy when
leaves are gone.

Inex. Holly. In some Hollies the flowers
are fertile; in others, plants of both sexes
are necessary if berries are to be formed.

Mactura. (Toxylon) The sterile flowers are

in racemes, the fertile are crowded in a large
spherical head.

Morus. Usually moncecious; both sorts of
flowers in catkins.

PHELLODENDRON. Flowers greenish and _in-
conspicuous, but the fruit is berry-like
and hangs through the Winter.

SHEPHERDIA. Plant both
male and female plants
for fruit.

Sximmia. Flowers are of-
ten dicecious.

ZANTHOXYLUM. ‘There is
little difference in the
ornamental value of
male and female trees.

Fig.

Cycas revoluta.

pollen sacs are found on the
lower side of each scale

13.—Male flower of
Globular

46 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

POLLINATING TOMATOES

In the Tomato the stamens are in a ring (see fig. 15) surrounding
the pistil which protrudes beyond it. Im the bright sunshine, the
blossoms open, the stamens ripen their pollen and shed it. It is
a simple process to use some sort of small wooden spoon which
is held beneath the flower. Tap the flower with the other hand,
the pollen will be shed into the spoon;
the pistil is then carefully dipped into
the pollen.

When Tomatoes are forced, artificial
pollination of this sort is necessary. The
worker goes through the house about noon
and pollinates all flowers which are open.
If the Tomatoes are being grown during
the Winter it will be found that on sunny

days more pollen is produced. On these

Note the reat Prossom- bright days the pollen should be put in a

surrounding the pistil small glass bottle and used during the

sunless period; pollen will keep, in a bottle

lightly corked, for several weeks. In the Springtime hand pollina-
tion is not necessary if the vines are vigorously shaken.

Certain varieties may be pollinated by the slightest jar of the
vines. Bonny Best rarely requires hand pollination except in the
dullest weather.

POLLINATION OF CUCUMBERS

Hand pollination of Cucumbers is a laborious process so that
bees are often used for the purpose. C. W. Waid advises a strong
hive to a half acre of Cucumbers. The bees are often restless when
first placed in the house, but soon become quite at home.

&,
3

CHAPTER II

CUTTINGS

Soft Wood — What Wood to Use — Medium for Rooting — Inserting
Cuttings — Temperature — Damping - off — Callus Monocoty-
ledonous Plants — Sand and Water Method — Wardian Case —
Florists’ List — Perennials — Hard Wood — Summer Cuttings of
Shrubs — Greenhouse — Frames — Large Stem Conservatory

“ Plants — Evergreen — Leaf — Root.

CUTTINGS OR SLIPS

NY part which has

been severed from
a plant is a cutting and
if we were clever enough
any portion of a plant
should produce a new
individual. If we knew
the method, Maple
leaves could be made to
root. At the present
time slips or cuttings
from the stems of plants
is the simplest method,
although root cuttings
and leaf cuttings may
be made.

The European notion
of a florists’ cutting is
that a cutting is a thor-
oughly established young
plant. American growers

have disappointed their

Fig. 16.—Condition of wood for cuttings. Note that = 7

in making soft wood cuttings certain portions of the for o pit neighbors by

stem are brittle and break with a snap; this is the sending them merely an

best part touse. Wood thatis hard and stringy does d shi
notrootasreadily (See page 48) unrooted s p.

47

48 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

Fig. 17A.—Chrysanthemum cutting. This is untrimmed as cut from the plant
Fig. 17B.—Chrysanthemum cutting. The two lower leaves are removed to reduce
the loss of moisture from the cutting. Note that the cut at the base of the cutting is

through an eye, or node; it is, therefore, called a node cutting (See page 120)

SOFT WOOD CUTTINGS

Cuttings or slips are taken of most commercial plants because
this is a rapid method of propagation; besides, the variety is propa-
gated perfectly true, a dependence which can not be placed on
erowing stock from seeds. Favorable stem, leaf and flower char-
acters are perpetuated exactly as in the parent plant. Some plants
produce no seed; these must be propagated by some other means,
such as cuttings.

WOOD TO USE

The wood should be brittle, not stringy; when bent it should snap,
not bend. (See fig. 16.) If too immature the cuttings damp-off
readily; if too old, the slips are slow to root.: The best material
is the first one to three inches of the tips of the shoots. Two or
more eyes should be found on each slip. The cut should prefer-
ably be made through an eye at the base, although many plants will
root from cuttings made at other points than an eye, or node.
Clematis roots better when cut at an internode. The growth

CUTTINGS 49

activity is considered to be greater at the nodes and rooting should
be more sure. The cutting will have no roots to supply the
food and water to the leaves, so that most of them should be re-
‘moved or much shortened. It will be the food stored in the
stem and remaining leaves which will produce the new roots.

Some propagators argue that the leaves should not be removed,
because the lower leaves aid in the manufacture of food and
they as well as the stem may root. By retaining the leaves
the cutting is saved the healing of the wounds necessarily made.
For some species it will be best to remove most of the leaves, and
for others it will not be advisable to disturb them in any way.

Most amateurs blunder by wishing a large plant at the start and
do not shorten the cuttings enough. In other words, too long a
cutting will be difficult to root and may make an unshapely plant.
Neyer allow flower buds to remain on the cutting; they will only
exhaust the vitality.

As soon as the cuttings are made they should be dropped into
a pail of water or wrapped in moist paper to keep them fresh. They
should not be kept in the water too long, however, else the bark
will be loosened. From time to time, as sufficient cuttings are made,
they should be placed in the cutting bench.

Glass

Fig. 18.—Propagating case. Shows cuttings inserted in the sand of a propagating
ease. The glass at the top confines the air. Such a case is useful in propagating
many conservatory plants

50 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

MEDIUM FOR ROOTING CUTTINGS

Coarse sand, free from all organic matter, has proved to be the
best material for using in the rooting of cuttings. The sand fur-
nishes good drainage, but at the same time it allows for a free passage
of water up from below. ‘To eliminate dangers from diseases the
sand is usually sterilized.

eT

Yj
ae

x

WLC PEPE Ee

Fig. 19.—A propagation house. The roof should be shaded. The benches are boarded

in below to retain the heat, an advantage in maintaining a higher temperature in the

sand than in the atmosphere. The sash-covered center benches may be used for

propagating such plants as require a confined atmosphere. By building up the benches
and covering with glass, this house could be used for grafting Roses

Before inserting the cuttings the sand should be thoroughly
watered and tamped, or pounded hard with a wooden mallet or
brick.

INSERTING CUTTINGS

By the use of a straight edge and a large, heavy knife, a groove
is cut into the sand. Cuttings are inserted and firmed tightly.
The commercial method is to place all the cuttings in the rows first,
then, with the fingers, the sand is compacted about them. The
straight edge is then placed along the rows and several raps of the
mallet will serve to further set them firmly. Unless cuttings are
so treated the air will get into the sand, and the base of the cutting
will dry. After setting the cuttings, water them thoroughly and
cover with newspapers or a cheesecloth screen.

CUTTINGS +) i
TEMPERATURE FOR ROOTING CUTTINGS

To induce root action rather than top growth, it is agreed that
there should be some sort of bottom heat; that is, the temperature
of the sand should preferably be greater than that of the air. In
greenhouses this is attained by running several pipes under the
cutting benches. For Summer rooting out of doors hotbeds may
be used and fresh and fermenting manure employed as the source
of heat. The florist and nurseryman prefer to have a difference
of from 5 degrees to 10 degrees between sand and air.

. DAMPING-OFF FUNGUS

The ‘“damping-off” fungus is very often encountered in the
cutting bench. The cuttings decay at the surface of the sand, the
tops often remaining green some time after the stem has blackened.
Excess of water in the sand or air favor the spread of the disease.
Higher temperature than the plant requires and close conditions are
other factors. Formalin, used at the rate of one part formalin to
fifty of water, using two quarts to a foot of sand, will kill the fungus,
but the cost is rather prohibitive. Allowing the sun to enter the
house and letting the bench become rather dry, will help the control
when the plants are in the bench. It is suggested that peroxide
of hydrogen be used to supply oxygen to the sand and air. Definite
proportions have not been accurately determined.

CALLUS

When the cuttings start to root they will gradually produce a
layer of spongy tissue over the cut surfaces. This is a callus and
usually precedes rooting. Leaf callus forms on the veins (note
fig. 26). The callus is first a wound protection, but later the cells
are absorptive and even go so far as to produce organs lost by
wounding.

MONOCOTYLEDONOUS PLANTS

The monocotyledonous plants, such as the grasses, lilies, As-
paragus and aroids, root in a different way than the dicotyledonous
plants. Callus is rarely formed, but the cut-surface becomes corky
in appearance. No roots are sent out from the stem, but one of the
buds in the axils of the lower leaves enlarges and sends out roots.

52 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

The bud continues to grow and becomes the new plant, the cutting.
is soon withered away and the new plant is independent.

POTTING CUTTINGS

Most plants should be potted or transplanted before the roots
get a half-inch long, using small pots or flats of a friable, not too
rich, soil. Allowing the cutting to remain in the propagating bench
will be detrimental, because it will only use up its own stored food
and can get no food from the sand. Certain plants, for example,
Clematis, have a tendency to produce a great deal of callus but
roots may be tardy to appear. By paring off some of the excess,
the roots may be induced to grow.

THE SAND AND WATER METHOD OF ROOTING CUTTINGS

By the sand and water method many a tree may be rooted which
is difficult to increase in other ways. It consists in using a pan, or
a pot with the hole closed, filled with sand. Half-ripened wood
is used for cuttings and placed in the pot. The sand is kept in
such a wet condition that the water itself is almost visible on its
surface. The pan or pot can then be placed in the sun, the excessive
moisture preventing wilting, and rooting soon takes place. Gor-
donia pubescens is rooted by this method.

WARDIAN CASE

Every conservatory and general flower growing establishment
should have a frame in the greenhouse, in which the atmosphere
can be confined and good bottom heat maintained. Such a frame
is called a Wardian case.

Robert Shore, gardener to the Cornell eee Department
of Botany has devised a sash-covered frame which is maintained at
a relatively high temperature by boarding up the heating pipes.
A pan of water sets upon the pipes and tends to equalize the tempera-
ture. The bottom of the frame is provided with a number of holes
to allow for the free passage of the heat upward. There is a layer
of three or four inches of sphagnum moss over the holes; this serves
to retain the moisture.

Many plants, such as Crotons, Draceenas, Nepenthes and other
tropical plants, are readily propagated in such a frame. Mr. Shore
propagates these plants successfully by placing the end of the cutting
through the drainage hole of an inverted flower pot which is placed
upon the moss. The roots start in the moisture-laden air inside the
empty pot, for the pot is not filled with moss, sand or soil. P|

CUTTINGS 53

THE FLORIST MAKES CUTTINGS ACCORDING TO THIS TIME
TABLE

AxsuTILoN. Autumn. Green wood. 55° to 65°.

Acacta. June or Winter. Half-ripened wood. 60° to 70°.

AcaLyPHA. Autumn to Spring. 60° to 70°.

AGAaTH#A. Autumn and Spring. 55°.

AGERATUM. February and March. 60° to 65°.

AxeBiA. Midsummer; half-ripened wood. Winter; hard wood. 45°
to 50°.

ALLAMANDA. Winter or Spring when pruning. Ripe or soft wood.
50° to 60°. Give a little bottom heat.

Atoysta. See Lemon Verbena.

ALTERNANTHERA. August; place in sand. When rooted place in
flats. Pot in April for sale. 60°.

AraucaARIA. Cut back plants. Use leaders only for cuttings. Lateral
cuttings make asymmetrical plants keep cool until rooted. 60°.

ArpistA. Half-ripened shoots. 50° to 60°. Usually by seed.

Avucusa. Summer to Autumn. Half-ripened wood. 50° to 60°.

Beconia. (Lorraine group.) Before January. Usually leaf cuttings.
65° to.70°.

BouGAINvILLEA. Early Spring. Half-ripened wood. 60°.

BouvarpiaA. March. More difficult by stem cuttings than root.
60° to 65°.

Bupp.Le1A. Summer; soft wood in greenhouse. Autumn; hard wood,
keep through Winter, out of danger of frost.

CAMELLIA. Late Summer. Ripened wood. 60° to 70°. Often
grafted.

CARNATION. See page 119.

CuorizEMA. Winter or early Spring. May be rooted in sand bench,
or in pots in mixture of sand and leaf mold. Place in Wardian case
or under bell jar. 65° to 70°.

CHRYSANTHEMUM. See page 120.

Cop1i#um. Place under bell jar or in Wardian case (see page 52).
70° or above. Bottom heat.

Coteus. September to Spring. 60° to 65°.

Croton. See Codizum.

EneutsH Ivy. August to September; also, from indoor plants, De-
cember to January. 50° to 55°.

Erica. December to Spring. Use strong plants. Cuttings short.
Cover with bell jar. Never above 60°.

EvupHORBIA FULGENS. Midsummer. (See Poinsettia, page 128.)

Firronia. Early Spring. Pot in leaf mold and sand in 2-in. pots. 65

Fucus1a. February to Spring. Use only newest wood from sank
cut back some time previously. 50° to 55°.

GARDENIA. Winter. December to February. Use soft wood. Keep
close. 65° to 70°. Bottom heat.

GenistAa. Early Spring. Soft wood. 45°.

GERMAN Ivy. January to March. 60°.

Heatus. See Erica.

HepERA. See English Ivy.

Hetiotrope. July, for Winter use. Soft wood. 60°.

ag eee February and March. 50° to 55°. Slight bottom

eat.

54 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

TIME TABLE FOR MAKING CUTTINGS—Continued

Ipom#A. Bona-nox. See Moonvine.

IRESINE. Mid-September. 60° to 65°.

Jasminum. Autumn and Winter. Ripened wood. 50° to 55°.

Lantana. January to Spring. Green wood. 60° to 65°.

Lemon VERBENA. February to April. 50° to 55°. Slight bottom
heat.

Linum tTrigyNum. March. Plants set in open in May. Pinch for
compactness. Pot in September.

Lospetra. Pot selected plants from field and propagate through
Winter. Good habits and colors are perpetuated.

Mertrosiwweros. Half-ripened wood, with heel. Place in pots of sand;

keep moist.

MoonviINnE. September. Keep cool. Continue propagating through

Winter.

NEPENTHES. (See Wardian case, page 52.)

Nerrum. Spring. Either sand or water. Keep moist and warm.

PacHysaANpRA. Midsummer to Autumn. Green wood.

PELARGONIUM (Geranium). September to May. 56° to 60°.

PornsETTIA. See page 128.

Roses. See page 129.

SANTOLINA. January to Early Spring. Soft wood. 50° to 55°.

SNAPDRAGON. January to March. Many growers believe that
seedlings make more floriferous plants, less liable to disease and
with greater vigor.

SreviA. Late Spring. Half-ripened wood. 50° to 55°.

SwAINSONIA. January to March. Green wood. 50° to 55°.

VERBENA. February to March. Green wood. 50° to 55°.

Vinca mMAsor. Autumn; or January to March. Half-ripened shoots.
60° to 65°. Can layer in field.

VIOLETS. See page 138.

MAKING CUTTINGS OF PERENNIALS

Cuttings can be made of hundreds of perennials. If you
wish to increase your stock, merely take little slips in the Spring
when the plants are six or seven inches tall. Besure to leave a few
buds below where the cutting is taken; it will not injure the plants
in the least, but will cause them to become branchy. Choose wood
that is a little ripened.

Some of the perennials which are readily propagated by cuttings
are here given; others are found on page 139.

AJUGA HELENIUM PENTSTEMON
ARABIS HEsSPERIS PERENNIAL SUNFLOWER
ASCLEPIAS HEUCHERA PHiox
BOLTONIA HoLLYHOCK PINKS
CENTAUREA IBERIS
: PLUMBAGO
CERASTIUM LARKSPUR P
CHRYSANTHEMUM LOBELIA OTENTILLA
CLEMATIS LOOSESTRIFE SALVIA
DAHLIA Lorus SEDUM

EUPATORIUM MoNARDA VERONICA

CUTTINGS 55

Fig. 20.—Dahlia cuttings. Such shoots make excellent material for cuttings, each
one besides being of the proper length is also provided with a heel or “meat” at
the base. Heel cuttings are thought to produce better tubers

In the Summer the cuttings may best be rooted in coldframes
prepared much like the propagating benches in the greenhouse.
Cheesecloth screens should also be erected over the frames. Care
must be taken that the cuttings never dry out and the ventilation
must be perfect. Damping-off is sure to result if the conditions are
stuffy and moist.

56 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

HARD WOOD CUTTINGS

Most of our shrubs and many of our trees may be propagated
by hard wood cuttings. The wood of the last season’s growth is
taken in the Autumn or early Winter, when the
leaves have dropped (preferably before heavy
freezes) and cut into approximately six inch lengths.
The cuts at the base and tip should be through an eye,
although this is not absolutely necessary (see fig. 21.)
They are usually tied in bunches of fifty or one
hundred cuttings. After making the cuttings they
may be placed in boxes of moist soil or sand and
placed in a cellar, or they may be buried upside
down in a sandy knoll deep enough so that they are
below the frost. A mulch over the top will also
retain the heat. Take special care to keep the
tops all one way and have the butts in one plane
so that they may callus uniformly.

Early in the Spring the cuttings, which will
have rooted, or callused, should be planted in rows
far enough apart for cultivation, and 6 to 8 inches
apart in the rows. They should be so planted
that one or two eyes are above the surface of the
soil. In the Autumn they should be dug and
sorted for size. Some shrubs will require planting

Fig. 21.—Hard-
wood cutting.
Note that the
top is cut just
above the buds,
and that the

in nursery rows again; others will be salable the
first year.

The Climbing Roses are easily propagated by
this method. Grapes are so multiplied; cuttings

5 to 7 inches long is sufficient. Some growers also
use one-eye cuttings of Grapes (see also Vitis p. 177.)

basal cut is
made through

should range
from 4 to 8
inches long

SUMMER CUTTINGS OF SHRUBS

Many trees and shrubs are readily propagated by taking soft
wood or half-ripened wood cuttings in June and July. This
furnishes a very cheap method of propagation. Such cuttings will
resemble the cuttings of the herbaceous or soft-wooded plants.

Greenhouse rooted. The cuttings are best rooted in flats, in the
greenhouse, where they may be easily handled. The cuttings may
also be placed in the bench. A house should be used which gets the
sun. “Thoroughly renovate the benches and give a coating of white-
wash which will sweeten the boards and destroy the disease spores.

CUTTINGS 57

Four inches of sand will be necessary. Put a thin shading of lime
on the glass and hang a piece of muslin inside the entire width and
length of the bench. Tack the upper edge fast to the rafter, and
arrange it so that the muslin will slide up and down upon a series
of wires. The object of this is, that on dull days and in the early
morning and late in the evening the curtain can be pulled up,
admitting the light. The reason for putting the curtain on the inside
is to allow the sun’s rays to pass through the glass, thereby fur-
nishing the necessary heat to cause root action, without allowing
the direct sunlight to strike the cuttings, which would be fatal.”*
Such parts of the house not used for cuttings should be screened
with muslin hung from the sash bars. Because the work is done
in hot weather, evaporation will take place rapidly from the cuttings,
so that there must be as little circulation of air as possible.

“As the cuttings are made, keep them moist by placing in damp
paper. Insert in the sand, about two to two and one-half inches
apart and one-half to three-quarters of an inch apart in the row.
Firm the sand and thoroughly water, covering the cuttings with
newspaper during the bright sunlight. Syringe the cuttings every
morning, but only water them when they become dry. When the
cuttings have rooted take off papers and continue to spray. A ~
muslin shade will now be necessary. When well rooted, place in
flats under a slat frame house out of doors and give plenty of water.
Many kinds will make a foot of growth in the season. Protect for
Winter. Set in open soil in Spring.

FRAMES

No bottom heat is necessary indoors, but in the frames some
bottom heat will be needed. A foot of fresh horse manure, well
trodden, will furnish the heat. Over the manure spread a layer of
4 to 6 inches of sand. Cover the frame with a tight-fitting sash.
Build a muslin canopy above the frame about 3 to 4 feet high to
protect the young stock from the sun.

Lilac cuttings should be made early in June as the wood ripens
earlier than some other sorts. By this same method may also be
propagated such shrubs as Andromeda, Hydrangea paniculata,
Tamarix, Syringa, Forsythia, Robinia hispida, Akebia, Kerria,
Symphoricarpos, Cornus, Clematis flammula, Berberis, Caly-
canthus, Viburnum, Exochorda, Weigela, Deutzia, Lonicera,
Ligustrum, Althea, Sambucus and Lycium.

oe ar Wm. Propagation of Shrubs. Proc. of Soc. of Iowa Florists, 1912, pp.

58 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

LARGE STEM CONSERVATORY PLANTS

Alocasias, Dieffenbachias, Dracenas, and some other conserva-
tory plants are readily propagated by cutting the old stems into
four-inch pieces, which are placed in the propagating bench with
bottom heat but not too great moisture. The Wardian case is
useful for this purpose; when rooted they are potted in sandy loam
and peat.

EVERGREEN CUTTINGS

Many of the evergreens
are propagated by stem
cuttings in the early Fall or
Midwinter. The cuttings
are usually made a _ bit
shorter than hard wood cut-
tings of deciduous-leaved
plants. They are best
placed in sand, using cold-
frames or nearly-spent hot-
beds. They usually pro-
duce a callus before freez-
ing. Cold weather makes
it necessary to cover the
frames with sashes and a
heavy coating of straw. In
the Spring it will be noted
that many of the cuttings
have not only produced a
large callus but they will
have made some _ top
erowth. Those made in
Midwinter are placed in
flats under the bench of a
cool house.

Three types of cuttings

Fig. 22.—A simple conifer cutting. The cut shows are used: simple, heel and
a species of Retinispora. The leaves are cut from mallet. The simple cutting
that portion, ofthe, sem, shih is fo be laced (cee fig, 92) is the sort, men-
tioned previously in the case

of soft wood and hard wood cuttings. The heel cutting (see fig. 23)
differs in one resepct only, in that it has a small slice of the

parent stem attached at its base. The mallet cutting (see fig. 24), as

CUTTINGS 59

the name infers, has at
its base a small or large
piece of the entire stem
to which it was attached.
The two latter sorts of
cuttings are thought to
be better because of the
food. stored in the parent
stem. Especially neces-
sary are the mallet cut-
tings to those evergreens
which root very slowly.

Only well ripened
shoots should be used;
the Softer branches are
inclined to damp-off.

The lighter colored
branches are quite apt
to be immature.

Sometimes the cut-
tings are made in Spring,
which do not root as well
as those taken in the
Autumn.

The following ever-
greens are propagated
by mature wood cuttings
as described above:
AZALEA
CALLUNA
CoOTONEASTER
CRYPTOMERIA
CUPRESSUS
HEDERA HELIX

JUNIPERUS—about New
Years

MAHnONIA Fig. 23.—A heel cutting. The sketch shows a
RETINISPORA OBTUSA cutting which has been made so that a portion of
Taxus _the parent stem is attached to the base. This
ae a is a species of Juniper

Some Evergreens, such as Pines and Spruces, grow readily from
seed, which method alone is used.
Writing of the rooting of conifers, Mr. Balfour* says that “the

* Balfour, I. Bayley. Problems of Propagation. Journ. of Roy. Hort. Society, Vol.
regan. tc

60 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

Evergreens often produce calluses very poorly but they all form
some. ‘The obstacle to the rooting is the resin which covers the
cut surfaces and hardens. If the resin skin is scraped from the
cutting they will often form abundant callus. Should the callus
become too large it may be pared down in which case roots will be
encouraged. In Pine the flow of resin is great; it is also thought
very difficult to root from cuttings. The ends of the cuttings
should be plunged in nearly boiling water; this seals the resin
canals and the heat promotes the ea of a callus.”’

Chamecyparis no ot-
katensis and Lawsoniana
pendula are best propa-
gated by cuttings made
in early Winter placed
in heat under glass. Pot
after rooting and grow
for a year or more before
planting out of doors.

Cunninghamia lanceo-
lata should best be root-
ed from half-ripe
wood in late Summer
under glass. Luibocedrus
cuttings are rooted in
late Summer under glass,
but they root very
slowly.

LEAF CUTTINGS

Plants with fleshy
leaves or thick petioles
may frequently be
propagated by leaf cut-
tings. The Rex Begonia

Fig. 24.—A mallet cutting. In making the mallet is the most familiar ex-
cutting a piece of the entire stem of the parent ] ill : hi
plant is left at the base. This mallet is a store- ample 1 ustrating this

house of food; such cuttings often root when the method. The leaves may
simple cutting does not (see page 59) ; s

be cut into a number of

more or less triangular pieces (see fig. 25), each of which has a large

piece of one of the main veins of the leaf. When such pieces are

inserted half their depth into the sand, the veins will callus and the
young plantlet start from this point. (See fig. 26.)

CUTTINGS 6]

Another method of ie
making a leaf cutting of pa
the Begonia is to cut z
through the main veins
at various points and pin
the entire leaf upon the
sand of the propagating
bench (see fig. 27), so
that the cut ends of veins
must be in contact with
the sand. A _ confined
atmosphere and _ slight
bottom heat are bene-
ficial to rooting. A bell
jar, placed over the
leaves, will serve to give

Fig. 25.—Rex Begonia leaf cutting.
The leaf is so cut that each portion
has a piece of a large vein. Each
section of the leaf when placed in the
sand will root. The parts around the
outside of the leaf are thin and are
thrown away (shown by white in sketch)

the proper conditions so that
the leaf blade will not dry out.

Many plants with very
fleshy petioles and leaf blades
may be propagated by placing
the petiole, or stem of the
leaf, in the sand. The blade
is often reduced in area by
cutting away the outer and
thinner parts of the leaf. The
leaves of such plants as the
Rose, Lilac, Cabbage, and
Lemon, will root by this me-
Fig. 26.—Rooted leaf cutting. Thesecond thod, but this is not Pe
cutting of the leafshown in figure 25has ticed commercially. Achime-

callused, rooted and produced a young j ;
plantlet nes, Begonia (Lorraine group),

62 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

Gesneria, Gloxinia, Strep-
tocarpus, Hoya and Pep-
eromia (see fig. 28), how-
ever, are successfully
rooted.

With the leaves of
certain bulbous plants,
as the Hyacinth,
small bulbs are produced
at the base when they
root.

Sanseviera leaves are
cut into three inch
lengths and allowed to
dry for a day or two.
They are then placed
perpendicularly in the
sand where they must
not be overwatered, in
which case they start .
new plants nicely.

Bryophyllum leaves

Fig. 27.—Another method of making a leaf cutting when placed on the sand
of Begonia Rex. The leaf shown in figure 25 might ip hi ah
have been pinned to the sand by bent wires. Near DENC Wi send out

the pins the main veins when cut would have pro-
duced small plants (See page 61) young plantlets at every
notch in the leaf

Spherogyne or Tococa, a beautiful broad-leaved conservatory
plant, has a peculiar method of propagation which is described by
Geo. W. Oliver: “Its propagation is very simple but requires
bottom heat. Cut the stems about two inches below the leaves,
trim the leaves to within two inches of the petioles. Split the stem
down the middle and place the cuttings in sand where there is a
brisk bottom heat. Make sure that the under part of the small
piece of leaf lies close to the sand, then every piece will root pro-
vided the leaves are neither too young nor too old. The rooted
pieces should be placed in 2-inch pots. Replace the potted cuttings
in the sand with the under part of the leaf again close to the sand.
The young growth from the axil of the leaf will furnish the stem
of the future plant. Too much water at any one time is apt to be
hurtful.

When the small pots are full of roots the rooted cuttings may
be placed into 3-inch pots, without in any way removing any of the
soil This can easily be done if care be taken. All of the rooted

CUTTINGS 63

‘cuttings will not make symmetrical plants and those which refuse
to do as we wish can be brought under subjection by using them for
propagation. The full grown plants do not look well when the
leaves are irregularly developed, but the symmetrical plant is a
thing of beauty. When old plants approach the flowering stage
they should be cut down and used for propagation They are
seldom handsome when over four feet tall.”

I. Bayley Balfour remarks that plants grown from a leaf taken
near the flowering region, of the Begonia, for example will bloom
more quickly than one obtained otherwise.

ROOT CUTTINGS

Many plants with thick roots may be propagated by cutting the
roots or root stocks into small pieces. But, curiously, variegations
are often not reproduced by this method. Some are propagated
indoors in the greenhouse, others, the stronger growing sorts, are
propagated out of doors .

In propagating plants by root cuttings in the greenhouse, flats
or shallow boxes filled with light loam and leaf mold are used

Fig. 28.—Leaf cuttings of Peperomia. _ A, A simple cutting of Peperomia Sandersii.

B, A leaf properly cut prepared for making a leaf cutting. C, The growth from such a

cutting as B. The young plantlet starts from a callus at the base of the leaf stem, or
petiole (See page 62)

64 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

Section I. The smaller and more delicate rooted sorts are cut
into lengths of one to two inches, and scattered over the surface of
the soil, after which they are covered with about a half inch of
finely sifted light loam. Cover the flats with newspaper and start
cool. Adventitious buds will soon form. When the growths have
started a bit, the plantlets should be transplanted to other flats
about two to three inches apart each way.

The following perennials are so propagated:

ACHILLEA CERATOSTIGMA POLYGONUM
ANEMONE JAPONICA CORONILLA VARIA ROMNEYA
BouVARDIA EuUPHORBIA SAPONARIA

PLUMBAGO LARPENT=

Section IIT. Some other plants, although
propagated indoors, are best handled by
placing the cuttings perpendicularly in the
soil so that the upper end protrudes a_ half
inch (See fig. 29). This class of plants
usually has fleshier roots than those in the
previous group. The following are so propa-
gated:

ANCHUSA

Bocconta

DIcENTRA SPECTABILIS
DobDEGATHEON
GAILLARDIA
(ZYPSOPHILA
HELIANTHUS RIGIDUS
MoONARDA

P4ZONIA

Papaver; fleshy root species
PHLOX, PERENNIAL

Fi i Abeer mere ee STATICE

ig. 29.—A root, cutting. eshy :

root; which has produced a tiny STOKESIA
sprout ‘THERMOPSIS

Section IIT, Root cuttings when planted in the open ground
are usually large in diameter and four to six inches long. They are
planted almost horizontally in trenches and covered two inches

deep.

A few of the trees and shrubs propagated by this method are:
BLACKBERRIES HYPERICUM ‘SASSAFRAS
CALYCANTHUS PHELLODENDRON SYRINGA
CLADRASTIS ROBINIA XANTHOCERAS

ROSES

eo]

As

CHAPTER III

BULBS - LAYERS - DIVISIONS

Bulbs — Hyacinths — Tulips — Bulblets — Easter Lily — Corms
Tubers — Tuberous Roots — Dahlias — Fancy Leaf Caladium —
Offsets — Suckers — Layers — Simple — Tip — Serpentine — Con-
tinuous — Air — Chinese — Preparing Plants for Layering —
Runners — Mound — Rhizomes — Conservatory Plants — Division
of Perennials.

ULBS are actually entire blooming plants telescoped together.
Upon the approach of proper environmental conditions they
start to grow and bloom. There are two types of bulbs: the tuni-
cated and the scaly bulbs. The tunicated bulbs illustrated by the
Onion and Tulip are clothed in a tight-fitting dry skin or tunic
(see fig. 87). The scaly
bulbs, illustrated by those
of the Lily (see fig. 31), are
composed of thick, over-
lapping scales.

Many bulbs propagate
naturally by the production
of small bulbs, or bulbels
inside of the other bulbs, in
which case the small bulbs
gradually become larger
and larger until they are
of blooming size. (See figs.
30 and 33.) Observation of
the behavior of the Nar-
cissus to produce double-
nose bulbs will illustrate
this method. When bulbs Fig. 30.—Diagram of bulb structure. Note
propagate by this method, _ the pues far Bogle woe pom ie roan
frequent transplanting is Fe aeiice cetiorar ihe bel: the tro il
necessary to keep the old bulbs, or bulbels, produced between the scales

but gradually pushed outside as the bulb

and new bulbs from crowd- grows; the white area at the base of the bulb
: corresponds to the stems of plant parts above
ing. A number of our bulbs ihe otal

65

66 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

in the garden are multi-
plied by taking the bul-
bels and starting them in
sandy soil in small pots
boxes. Notably are
Begonia Evansiana
the hardy Begonia,
Oxalis, Tuberose, and
many of the Dutch bulbs.
A great number of our
Spring flowering bulbs
are grown mostly in
Holland and are there
propagated. For list of
bulbs and their propa-
gation see page 141.

HYACINTH
PROPAGATION

Fig. 31.—Easter Lily bulb. _, This illustrates the
scaly type of bulb (See page 65) The propagation ar
Hyacinths is about as interesting as that of any bulb. The Dutch
have two commercial methods, known as “notching” and “‘scooping.”’
In notching (see fig. 32, B) cuts are made transversely in wheel or
star fashion across the base of the bulb. Just how far to cut is
learned by experience. If the cut is made too deep the young bulbs
will not start, and if not deep enough too little increase is obtained.
By the second method, that of scooping, the base or stem of the
bulb is cut out, leaving the bottom scooped so that each layer of
bulb scales is cut through. (See fig. 32, C.)

A B C

Fig. 32.—Hyacinth bulbs. A, Base of a bulb. B, The base of the bulb notched for
propagation. C, A bulb scooped

BULBS - LAYERS — DIVISIONS 67

Fig. 33.—Hyacinth bulbs. This cut shows the natural method of producing bulbels at
the base of the bulbs

Each method has drawbacks. The notched method results
in few bulbs (see figs. 34 and 35) of a large size in a short time; by
scooping (see fig. 36) three times the number of bulbs are produced,
but they are tiny
and of superior
vitality. Offspring
of notched bulbs
flower in three to
four years, scooped
bulbs require at
least four or five.

PLANTING AND
CULTURE OF
HYACINTH

Fred de Meul-
der, of Lisse, Hol-
land, in the Flor-
ists’ Exchange for Lf 4 »
April’ 17, 1915, ) % :
gives the following
notes on theculture
for propagation: Fig. 34.—The first stage of a notched bulb

68 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

“Both classes of bulbs undergo practically the same treatment
in the ‘nurse-room,’ a place in the bulb store reserved for them
and kept at a high temperature. Here they remain until after a
fortnight or so—about one hundred bulbels in the case of scooped
bulbs, and thirty in
that of the notched
ones are formed upon
them. They are left
until after all the
other bulbs are plant-
ed so as to give them
the care of the nurs-
ery as long as possi-
ble. Then usually in
the last week in Octo-
ber or the first week
in November they,
too, are taken to the
fields and _ planted.
The ground has been
carefully prepared for
their reception; it has
been well dug up and
liberally dressed with

Fig. 35—A notched Hyacinth bulb. The bulbels are Well-rotted cow-dung
few but larger than those obtained when bulbs are earlier in the year.

8 S

ee fre This kind of fertilizér
is preferred to the others, such as lime, etc., both because it is more
economical and because it is less harmful to the Hyacinth, whose
extremely sensitive bulb would be burned up by lime or similar
substances. Hyacinths cannot be set in the same ground except
at two-year intervals, or at one-year intervals if the soil has been
turned up from a much greater depth. Both Tulips and Hyacinths
thrive on a piece of ground if it is used for each of them in alternate
years, and this is what is usually done.

Taken to the field, the bulbs are set in the ground at a depth of
about five inches, and an area of about five square inches is allowed
for each. The flower beds, one of which stretches almost the entire
length of the field, are so disposed that each shall be three feet wide
and that a path one foot wide shall be left between them. When
all is ready the whole field is covered with about ten inches
of hay or straw; a necessary precaution, for the Hyacinth is
very susceptible to the cold. The fields lie thus till Spring,

BULBS — LAYERS - DIVISIONS 69

and then with the sun and rain the leaves, and later the flowers,
appear.

Generally the first Sunday in April, if the weather has been fine,
or the second if it has not, finds the fields in bloom. Then it would
be hard to find a more beautiful place on earth than this stretch of
thirty miles from Haarlem to Leiden. The natives are not less
appreciative of the attraction than the stranger. On this Sunday
the highway from Hillegom to Leiden is one mass of people on foot,
on bicycles, in motors, carriages and trams The great concern
of the people to see the annual flower show is better understood
when we know that this one day is probably the only chance they
have to visit it. The flowers are not more attractive to the people
than to the grower, but his love of beauty must yield to his business
interests, so the flowers are cut off to allow the additional nourish-
ment thus gained to go to the bulb. The clipping usually takes
place ten days after the flowers appear.

The bulbs now
begin to enlarge and
are left to grow dur-
ing April and May.
About the middle of
May, with fair warm
weather, the leaves
turn yellow, a sign
that the bulb is ma- g
tured and can be gm
taken out. Wet, cold, fms
weather at this time *
of the year retards
the ripening process,
bringing the harvest
up to June.

In the event of a
protracted spell of
wet and cold, some
method of hastening

: Fig. 36.—A scooped Hyacinth bulb. Compare the
the bulbs to maturity great number of small bulbels produced es this

must be resorted to. method with those produced by notching (See page 67)

One recently adopted

is to remove the bulbs from the ground before they have reached
the proper stage and keep them in a warehouse at the temperature
of fine Summer weather. Forced in this manner they mature at
the proper time and it is thus possible to meet the demands of those

70 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

| Fig. 37.—Tulip propagation. _It is the natural method of propagation for tulips to send
out bulbels at their base (See page 71)

customers who want flowers in bloom at Christmas. Only with
Hyacinths was this procedure found impracticable; but with Tulips
it gave indifferent results.

HARVESTING

When the bulbs are taken up from the ground the new bulbels
are found to have grown to the size of an acorn; the mother bulb
has almost entirely disap-

Nt peared, having served as

| Ye food for her numerous prog-

eny. These are now taken

= Vg ae to the warehouses and
placed on laths to dry.

Cae This is merely a matter of
oS ! plenty of air and the ordin-
: ary Summer temperature.

} This is also the case with

= Vy the old bulbs of the
SY ‘notched’ class. The opin-
ZO (( ion prevalent in some

quarters that it is necessary

r 3 —N to apply absorbent material
Bae. to all the bulbs after treat-
) ment experience has shown
to be without foundation.
Only in the case of
| ‘scooped’ bulbs have we
( found the application of
, an absorbent at all neces-

Fig. 38.—Bulblets. The sketch shows a Lily sary.

stem upon,which small bulbs, or bulblets, are :
produced (See page 71) The cleaning of the

BULBS — LAYERS — DIVISIONS 71

bulbels, a process always attended with a good deal of danger of
damaging them, is deferred till the Fall, when any injury the tender
plants might sustain will be speedily healed by the earth wherein
- they are soon after placed. Set in the ground again in October,
the new bulbs bear leaves in the following Spring. The second year
those of the ‘notched’ class flower, while the others want still
another season.”

NARCISSUS AND TULIP PROPAGATION

Most Narcissus and Tulip propagation must be left entirely
to nature (see fig. 37); no cutting of the bulbs can be done to
increase the production. Left to themselves each bulb produces
three or four bulbels, of which two or three develop to good size,
and the old bulb disappears. The following Autumn the young
bulbs are taken up, cleaned, and replanted. It thus takes two
years to get Narcissus and Tulip bulbs.

BULBLETS

Certain bulbous plants, as the Tiger Lily, Dentaria bulbifera,
certain Ferns, Ranunculus Ficaria, and the Multiplier or Potato
Onion, produce small bulbs in the axils of their leaves above ground.
These are bulblets. (See fig. 38.) They can be planted immedi-
ately after ripening and will multiply the particular plant true
to variety.

EASTER LILY PROPAGATION

_ Easter Lilies have been propagated for many years by the
rooting of bulb scales and by the natural division of the bulbs, but
recently a method of raising Easter Lilies from seed (see page 39)
is strongly advocated as a method by which certain diseases may
be avoided.

With rare or unusual species of bulbs there is still an advantage
in propagating by bulb scales. The scales are treated like cuttings
and are placed in benches of sand or a sandy loam at a temperature
between 45 degrees and 60 degrees; small bulbels will be produced.
Some tender sorts need bottom heat.

Division is the commonest method, as it is the natural tendency
of Easter Lily bulbs to divide after flowering.

<2 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

CORMS

Corms are much shortened rhizomes or thickened bases of
stems, usually subterranean, in which food is stored. A corm
differs from a bulb in that the greater share of the bulk of a bulb
is not stem, but bulb scales, which are really thickened bases of
leaves, the stem being merely a much-flattened plate from which
root and bulb scales arise. Corms also are covered with shells,
or scales, but these are scarious, or dried, and are called husks,
or tunics. These scales are bases of leaves, but are not thickened
as they are in bulbs. Botanically considered, a bud or the poten-
tiality for a bud exists in the axils of all leaves. There should be

Fig. 39.—Seedling Easter Lily. This seedling Lily is in its second year and hae thirty-
six buds and flowers. It was raised by Geo. W. Oliver"

BULBS — LAYERS —- DIVISIONS 73

one bud for each layer of tunics
or husks. Because of the man-
ner of growth of the Gladiolus,
a cormous plant, which is in
one plane, these buds should
have an opposite arrangement
(see fig. 41), thus causing
them to lie in one straight line
through the center of the corm.

With the Gladiolus, it takes
from one to four years, accord-
ing to the variety, for a seed-
ling to produce a corm of
blooming size.

Every stem that makes
vigorous growth has at its base
a corm. Each corm has sev-
eral buds, of which each one
that grows will produce a new
corm on top of the one planted.
Seven Gladiolus bulbs of
blooming size in one season
has been reported.

The sketch

shows the method of producing new corms

above the old one. Between the two corms

small corms, cormels or spawn, are produced
(See page 74)

Fig. 40.—Gladiolus corm.

In this way the grower’s stock is not only

reproduced each season, but also rapidly increased, provided good
soil and proper cultivation are given.

As tee Wipe
fi

Fig. 41.—Gladiolus corm from which
the tunic has been removed. Note the
scars due to the bases of the old leaves.
The buds are in a straight line, and
there is one bud for each ring on the

Sketch taken from Cornell
Extension Bulletin No. 10

corm.

The vigor and the thickness
of a corm depend much on the
proper maturing of foliage. If in
cutting the spike little vegetative
growth is left above the soil, only
small quantities of food can be

4 manufactured by these abbre-

viated leaves, and the base of the
stem, or corm, in which the food
is stored, suffers. The failure
to carry over stock is often
due to cutting the flower stems
near the surface of the soil, the
corms thus being able to make
little or no development The
suggestion, then, is that if one
wants an annual renewal of corms,
care must be exercised to leave

74 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

sufficient foliage after
cutting the spike.

It is the general
opinion that corms
which have been al-
lowed to bloom every
year for three or four
years become thinner
and thinner.

Soon after the
base of the growing
stem of the Gladiolus
has begun to thicken,
small corms are found
to have formed be-

Fig. 42.—Tuber of Jerusalem Artichoke. Note that tween the old and the
theeyes, unlike those of the Dahlia, are on the tuber new corm. These are

(See page 75)
properly called
cormels. (See fig. 40.) They are covered with a hard shell, thus
differing from seedling Gladioli of the same size, whichhave a
covering more like a husk, composed of the dried bases of the
previous season’s leaves. A more rapid method of multiplying
new varieties is to cut the corm into several pieces so that each
piece has one or more eyes. |
Other examples of corms are Crocus, Cyclamen, Antholyza, Col-
chicum, Arum, Ari-ema, Ixia, Montbretia, Morea, Sparazis,
Tigridia, Watsonia c
(For additional list
see page 141).

TUBERS AND
TUBEROUS ROOTS

Certain plants
produce — thickened
portions of their stems
beneath the © soil.
These are tubers.
Tuberous roots differ
from tubers in that
there are no eyes

Fig. 43.—Tuberous roots of Dahlia. Note that the
: sprouts start at the base of the old stem and not on the
from which erowth tuber itself. The line marked C-C shows how the Dahlia

should be divided, each new plant having a piece of
starts. The eyes of the parent stem, a tuber and a sprout

BULBS — LAYERS — DIVISIONS 15

the tuberous roots are at the base of the old flowering stem. Ex-
amples of tubers are: Potatoes, Jerusalem Artichoke ( Helianthus
tuberosus) (see fig. 42), Begonia Evansiana. Tuberous roots are
found in the following plants: Dahlia (see fig. 43), Tuberous
Begonia, Boussingaultia, Caladium, Hemerocallis Dumortieri and
Poison Hemlock.

Fig. 44.—Offsets of Anthericum. Note how these plantlets are produced upon pendu-
lous stems. (From Milady’s House Plants) (See page 76)

PROPAGATION OF DAHLIAS

The tubers should be started about April Ist in a warm, light
room, merely placing them in a shallow box of sand or light soil.
When the young shoots begin to show, they should be so cut that
one or two eyes are allowed to remain on each piece; the eyes start
from the collar between the old stem and tuber (See figs 20 and 43.)

76 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

PROPAGATION OF FANCY LEAF CALADIUMS

Small tubers started in February will be large by September,
when they should be removed from the soil and stored in sand.
When ready for propagation they should be cut into good size
pieces and covered with powdered charcoal. They are then placed
on a bench in sphagnum and sand where they can root nicely,
before potting in a mixture of loam and leaf mold. This treatment
applies to Gloxinias and Tuberous-rooted Begonias, but the latter
two are not cut to pieces.

OFFSETS

Certain plants produce small plantlets, rosettes from the parent
plant which, if allowed to strike the soil, will root readily. These
are often designated as offsets. Familiar examples of offsets are
those found with Cotyledon, the Hen-and-Chickens, Anthericum
(see fig. 44), Marica, Cenothera and Boltonia.

SUCKERS

Suckers are unexpected shoots from the base of plants. The
formation is frequently encouraged by.injury to the roots of a
plant. Familiar examples of trees which sucker are: Sassafras,
Asimina, many of the fruits, Ailanthus and others. When the roots
are not injured there is little trouble with suckers. Some propa-
gators hold that plants grown from suckers are inclined to sucker
later in the new plant.

The fruiting of the Pineapple, Ananas, is followed by the produc-
tion of suckers which are removed and rooted in sand. The
Banana is propagated almost entirely by suckers.

Plants which sucker are easily propagated by root cuttings (see
page 63).

A number of conservatory plants, such as Agave, Caladium,
Billbergia, Tillandsia, Guzmania, Anthurium, Pandanus, are readily
propagated from suckers broken from the plants and potted in
small pots plunged in a Wardian case (see p. 52).

LAYERS

Propagation by layers consists in rooting a portion of the plant
without detaching it from the parent plant. Some plants may
be propagated by this method when cuttings fail. Many propagate
themselves naturally by this method, the branches coming in

BULBS — LAYERS - DIVISIONS . ch

contact with the earth, producing roots. Creeping Jenny, Boston
Ferns, Grapes, Sedums, Tomatoes, and many other plants take
root at the nodes, or eyes, very readily. In the case of many other
plants roots easily form when a branch is bent
down and covered with earth. This is simple
layerage. It is advantageous to peg the
branches in some manner and to cut the stem
partially through (see fig. 45) at the point where
roots are pre-
ferred. Black
Raspberries
root easily
when the tips
of their bran-
ches are buried
(see fig. 46).
This latter is
known as lip
layering. After 34
a /B
the layers have Fig. 45.—Simple layering. Note how the lanes is bent
rooted they are down; a slit has been cut in the stem at a and held open by a
severed from pebble, 6; a peg, c, holds the layered branch firmly in the soil;

and the stake, d, keeps it upright. Note how the roots
the parent have formed

plants. |
When the branch of a plant is covered with soil at a
number of points, the term serpentine, or compound layering, is
applied. It is used very advantageously with vines.

When nearly the whole branch is covered, the process is called

Fig. 46.—Tip Layering a Raspberry. The shoots have been bent. down and covered
with soil; each one has rooted and produced a young plantlet, which may be severed
and grown separately

COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

A B
Fig. 47.—Air layers. A, A branch notched preparatory to air layerage. B, A
Chinese layer, the notch has been covered with a ball of moist sphagnum moss. C, A
pot layer; a pot filled with moss or sand has been used instead of just a ball of moss
(See page 78)

continuous layerage. This method is confined to a few shrubs
and vines which grow readily from buds even though they are
covered with earth.

With other plants whose branches cannot be bent down to
the earth, some method of air or pot layerage is used. Ordinary
flower pots are split in two pieces (see fig. 47, C) and placed
around a branch. The pot is tied together, an incision is made
in the bark and stem inside the pot and the pot filled with
sphagnum moss or soil. This method is successfully used on
Draceenas and Crotons when they become too tall and lose their
lower leaves. The pot is not necessary; many plants are layered
by merely tying a ball of sphagnum moss around the stem which
as before, is injured. Such layers are called Chinese layers (see
fig. 47, A and B). So soon as roots form, the top is removed and
potted.

PREPARING PLANTS FOR LAYERING

Early Spring is the time to prepare for layering. Stock to be
layered should be growing with ample room betweenfthe plants, to
permit of the shoots being layered all around them, and still leaving
room for cultivating between them. The soil should be con-

BULBS — LAYERS — DIVISIONS 7)

sidered: it should not be heavy, but rather of a light nature,
making work easy for the operators; the layers, too, root more
freely in light, sandy soil than in any other kind.

Having the plants at a proper distance apart, and the soil
prepared the next thing is to prune the plants, to cause them
to make some young, strong shoots for layering. These shoots
should, preferably, always be of the same season’s growth, though
older ones will root. If not already pruned, do it before growth
starts, cutting the plants down as near the ground as possible,
having in mind that the shoots anticipated must be layered under
the surface, so the nearer they are to the ground the better; layering
should commence as soon as the shoots are of sufficient length to
permit of it.

Fig. 48.—Rubus propagation. Shows method of increase.
Sketch by George W. Oliver

80 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

MOUND LAYERS

j ) Plants with rather
stiff branches which can
hardly be bent down and
covered with soil are
mound layered. By this
method the plants are
cut back very severely
and this will cause the
production of a great
number of branches.
These are covered with
soil which will cause each
branch to root. (See
Fig. 49.—Mound layer of Gooseberry. Note that lig. 49) When the ek

the shoots have been cut back close to the soil CSS is completed, the
previous to mounding the soil about the plants; plants are divided.

each shoot is rooting nicely
Gooseberries and

Quinces are propagated by this method.

RUNNERS

Certain plants, such as the Strawberry (see fig 50), produce
runners, or little plantlets, upon specialized branches. These are
readily propa-
gated by separ-
ation from the
jy, parent plant
and potting in-
to 2 inch or 2%
inch pots. In
the Strawberry

Fig. 50.—Strawberry runners patch there is

frequently a

succession of these new plants started, but for the best results the

first runners to be produced from the plants should be trained into
pots sunk into the soil.

RHIZOMES

A rhizome, unlike a root, is an underground stem. In other
words, rhizomes bear roots and have prominent leaf buds or eyes.
(See figs. 51 and 52.)

BULBS — LAYERS — DIVISIONS 81

Divisions of a root stock or
rhizome are safely planted
vertically when it is known
which is the upper end, other-
wise, most divisions should be
placed in the soil horizontally.

Many of our outdoor plants
which bear rhizomes are best
propagated by taking pieces
which bear one or two eyes.
For examples see under Bulb-
ous Plants and Their Propaga-
tion, page 141.

CONSERVATORY PLANTS

Many conservatory plants
are propagated by divisions
of a rhizome. Some examples
are :

AcAntTuus. Divide in
Spring or early Au-
tumn.

A GLAONEMA. The

short rhizomes

when divided are
placed in
sand to root.

ALOCKS TA:

Usually in

March. Keep

close, moist

and warm.

Use War-

dian case.

Fig. 51.—Portion of German Iris Rhizome.

Between the leaf shoots is shown the scar

left by the floweringstem. Eachshoot might
be separated asan independent plant

Fig. 52.—Primula Sieboldii. This sketch is of the Spring stage showing the rhizome

82 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

Note the rhizomes at the root and the runners above the soil

Fig. 53.—Maranta.

Antuurium. Place divisions in peat, sphagnum moss and sand, in smal]
pots plunged in Wardian case, at temperature of 7 5° to 80° with
bottom heat. Propagated in Midwinter.

Arum. Division of rhizome in Spring.

AsprpistrA. Wash out old soil before growth starts and divide up
rhizomes; place in propagating bench of sand to root, then pot.

CALATHEA. (See Aspidistra.)

Catia. “(Not Richardia.) (See Anthurium.)

CaNnNA. The rhizomes are rather tuberous. Divide and pot in March.

BULBS — LAYERS - DIVISIONS 83

CONVALLARIA. (See Lily of the Valley.)

FATSIA PAPYRIFERA. Best in Spring.

Ferns. (See page P. 123.)

LiLy OF THE VALLEY. (These rhizomes are called pips.) Divide. Grow
in sand with good bottom heat and shade.

Maranta. (See Aspidistra.) (See fig. 53.)

MownsterA. Each piece should have several joints.

NeEtumsBium. Aquatic. Cut up rhizome and anchor to soil with a
stone.

Nympu@a. Aquatic. (See Nelumbium.)

RicuarpiA. (Calla Lily) Dry off plants in summer. Pot in early Fall,
removing offshoots which, when potted several together in a pot, of-
ten bloom the first or second year.

DIVISION OF PERENNIALS

One of the simplest methods of propagation is that of division.
Wath a large knife or spade huge clumps are cut into convenient
sizes for replanting. Certain very rampant growers get very much
choked after growing in one place for any length of time. Examples
of perennials which require almost annual propagation are: Michael-
mas Daisy, Achillea ptarmica and millifolium roseum, Helianthus,
Sedum, some Veronicas, Chrysanthemums, (CEnothera, and _ all
perennials which sucker badly should be moved and divided every
year Artemisia, Boltonia, Campanula, Geum, Funkia, Doronicum,
Armeria and Thalictrum are all propagated by division.

Certain perennials, such as Peonies and Fritillaria, should not be
moved often; they must be thoroughly established in order to bloom
properly Peonies should be moved every six or seven years, Phlox
every four years and Iris every three years.

Boxwood can easily be separated by tearing to pieces old dwarf
plants; the divisions are replanted to make a tiny hedge. A new
plant, the Box-barberry may prove a good substitute for the Box,
as it is a low growing form of Berberis Thunbergit.

e
cA
roo

CHAPTER IV

GRAFTAGE

Graftage Defined — Objects — Results — Limits — So-called Graft
Hybrids — Characteristics of a Stock — Selection of Wood for
Cions — Time to Graft — Important Points — Whip Grafting —
Root — Cleft — Veneer — Side — Splice — Saddle Graft —Bridge
— Crown — Terminal Bud — Budding — Time to Bud — Shield
Budding — Patch — H Budding — Inarching — Seedling Inarch—
Top Grafting — Double Working — Wax — Applying Wax —
Cactus Grafting.

TERMS DEFINED

HE term graftage is now accepted to include both grafting and

budding. The real difference between these two processes

is slight. Budding is inserting a single bud into the growing wood

of a plant; grafting, merely consists in using a twig of several buds

instead of a single bud. Also included under graftage is the process
of inarching, or grafting by approach.

The term cion (often spelled scion) is used to designate the
portion of one plant which is inserted upon another plant, called
the stock. The stock is usually rooted so that it may gather the
nourishment from the soil and furnish it to the cion.

It must be remembered that even though the stock and cion
are in intimate union, each retains its own individuality. The
tissues of bark and wood of each never mix, they merely knit to-
gether.

Most dicotyledonous plants, as Apples, Legumes, Evergreens,
Cacti, Composites, Crucifers and members of the Potato family,
have been grafted. Monocotyledonous plants, as Lilies, Orchids,
Grasses, Irises, and the Aroids, have never been grafted for com-
mercial purposes, because their parts are not adapted for the essen-
tial close union.

84

GRAFTAGE 85

OBJECTS OF. GRAFTING

The reasons for grafting plants are well set forth by Baltet* as
follows: “The object of grafting is—

1. To change the character of a plant, by modifying the wood,
the foliage or the fruit which it was required to produce.

2. To excite the development of branches, flowers, or fruit on
the parts of a tree where they are deficient. *

3. To restore a defective or exhausted tree by transfusion of
the fresh sap of a vigorous kind.

4 To bring together on the same stem the two sexes of monce-
cious} plants, in order to facilitate their reproduction.

5. To preserve and propagate a great number of woody or
herbaceous plants for use or ornament, which could not be repro-
duced by any other means of multiplication.”

THE RESULTS OF GRAFTING

After the cion grows it produces its leaf, flower, or “‘fruit after its
kind.” Shoots from below the point of union continue to produce
their own characteristic leaves, flowers and fruits. But grafting
hardly ever materially changes the qualities of the characteristic
stock and cion.

Dr. L. H. Baileyt has summarized a few effects of grafting
which are of interest.

Dwarfing. Grafting may alter the stature of a plant. It is a
common method of dwarfing plants. The pear is dwarfed by
grafting on Quince or on the Apple by working on the Paradise
Apple stock.

Adapting varieties to adverse soil Grafting may be the means of
adapting plants to adverse soils. Some varieties of Plums are
worked on the Peach, which causes them to thrive in a sandy soil.

Roses when grafted on Manetti stock tolerate sandier soils.

Adapting plants to adverse climate. Grafting may be the means
of adapting plants to adverse climate. The stock may mature
sooner and cause a relatively earlier maturity of the cion, or the
stock may actually impede the flow of sap and cause earlier maturity.

The Oldenburg and other Russian Apples are used as stocks,
because the early maturing causes the ripening of the wood of

* Baltet, Chas. The Art of Grafting and Budding, p. 2.

T It would seem that Baltet might have included diecious as well as monecious. Mo-
neecious plants have flowers bearing only one sex, but both kinds of flowers, on one
plant; dicwcious plants have the separate sexes on different plants.

{From Garden and Forest, Feb. 26, 1890. The above excerpt from this paper is much
changed, but the main facts are found in the article cited.

86 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

the cion, which consequently is less injured by adverse Winter
conditions

Correcting poor habit. Grafting may correct a poor habit.
Canada Red Apples, which are notably poorly shaped trees, are
improved by top working upon some good grower.

Rapid method of testing seedlings. Grafting often hastens
fruiting and flowering. Seedlings which require a long time to
attain the age for flowering or fruiting are frequently budded or
grafted upon a mature tree. (See Inarching, p. 102). This method
saves years of waiting for, perhaps, an inferior fruit. With the Pear
it often takes eight to ten years before the seedling will bear fruit;
but when budded, Pears may be produced in two years. Even the
bud from a seedling, therefore, becomes a part of the tree and the
vigorous growth of its first year may be expected to produce, flower
and fruit buds. Furthermore, it is known that cions from young
trees bear fruit more readily when inserted in old trees, than when
set in young ones. In France this system, by which a great number
of excellent Pear varieties have been introduced, has been com-
monly practiced. There is keen pleasure in hybridizing fruits,
raising the seedlings and awaiting the results of the labor.

Modifying season of ripening of fruit. Grafting will often alter the
season of ripening of fruit, by causing a difference in time of maturity
of wood in stock and cion.. Pears of the variety Winter Nelis keep
better when grafted on Bloodgood stock than when grown on
Flemish Beauty. Twenty Ounce Apples ripen earlier than normally
when grafted on Early Harvest.

Increasing fruitfulness. The increase in fruitfulness of some
varieties may be due to better adaptation to climatic and soil
conditions. Many instances of increase in fruitfulness, by grafting,
can be given.

Delaying the running ou of varieties. Grafting, rather than
growing plants from cuttings, seems to delay the degeneration of
varieties of certain Camellias and Roses.

Increasing size of fruit. Certain Pears when grown on the
Quince are much increased in size.

Modifying color. Grafting often causes a change in the color
of flower, foliage and fruit. Many of the cases of apparent differ-
ence are due to environmental influences rather than grafting.
Prunus Pissardi is deeper in the color of the foliage, when grafted
on P. americana, than upon P domestica.

Influencing flavor of fruit. Grafting may appreciably influence
flavor. Angouléme Pears are improved in flavor when worked upon
the Quince.

GRAFTAGE 87

LIMITS OF GRAFTING

The solution of the problem as to just which plants may be

grafted upon each other has hardly been explored. Certain species
graft with perfect ease, certain other species in the same genus are
united with difficulty. Peaches do not bud readily on the Apricot,
but both the Peach and the Apricot may be budded on the Plum
Apparent similarities are confusing. The Horsechestnut cannot
be budded on the Oak, but the edible Chestnut may be so united.
Botanically, the Chestnut and the Oak are of one family. Plants
belonging to different families cannot be grafted. It is, however,
possible to have the Mountain Ash, the European Quince, the
Japanese Quince, the June Berry, the Crab Apple, the Pear, the
Medlar and the Cotoneaster all in bloom on one Thorn Apple or
Crategus tree. All of these plants belong to the Rose family.
» Absurd statements concerning graftage have continually been
made by those persons who have allowed their imaginations to rule
their writings. Even Virgil speaks of Apples growing on Plum trees;
a core fruit on a stone fruit. We believe such things impossible.
Martial speaks of the Cherry on the Poplar. Madame de Genlis
claims to have grafted the Rose on the Black Currant, to obtain
black Roses. Only last year a prominent New York newspaper
published with seeming sincerity the account of a table d’hote tree
which, by grafting, grew Tomatoes, Cucumbers, Potatoes, Apples,
and a dozen other crops on one specimen. It was advised for
planting in the small backyard.

SO-CALLED GRAFT HYBRIDS

In 1826, at Vitry, France, M. Adami grafted Cytisus purpureus
upon Laburnum vulgare, and there came from the point of union a
branch which was hybrid in nature. It bore pink, yellow and
purple flowers. Yellow flowers are characteristic of Laburnum
vulgare, and purple flowers are borne by C. purpureus, but the pink
is truly hybrid. The wood and foliage accompanying each type
of flower followed the characteristics of the parent from which the
flower came. This graft was propagated and is known as Cytisus
Adami. Biologists are not willing to call this a graft hybrid, how-
ever, for they point out that the tissues are not hybrid. The outer
tissues of C. Adami are distinctly A. purpureus and the inner
Laburnum vulgare.

Many other examples of so-called graft hybrids oe been
found. In 1914, D. Bois in Revue Horticole, reported the case of a
Pear grafted on a Quince, which sent out below the graft two opposite
branches; one being of the Quince growth, the other differed widely

88 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

from both the Pear and Quince. It was called Pyrocydonia Winck-
leri.* It is reported that this variation is propagated true to type.

The settlement of the question whether such growths are truly
hybrid is important, for if they are, sexual and asexual reproduc-
tion are identical. Hybrids are supposed to occur only upon the
union of the sex cells, not the structural cells, of a plant.

CHARACTERISTICS OF AN IDEAL STOCK

A good stock for budding or grafting should be:

1. Hardy, if possible, so that the plants may live through the
Winter.

2. Easily multiplied; simply and rapidly.

3. Cheap to obtain; many stocks are grown from seeds gathered
from the wild.

4. Free from susceptibility to pests and diseases. Certain
plants being very susceptible to pests are grafted for this reason.
The European Grape being readily attacked by the phylloxera, aroot
louse, it is grafted upon the American Grape stock which is not
attacked. Diseases are readily communicated from stock to cion
or vice versa.

5. Easy to work; looseness of bark for budding is a prominent
asset.

6 Capable of making good strong unions and unite quickly; the
cion should not outgrow the stock.

7. Able to produce a good, well-balanced root system. In the
case of many commercial plants, a small but very fibrous root sys-
tem is preferred, because of the advantage of easy transplanting
and later the ability to fertilize the limited area about the plants.
The long wiry roots are often the only ones produced when the seed-
ling stocks are raised in a heavy soil. A loose, fibrous soil containing
leaf mold will cause such trees as Hickories, Oaks, English Walnut,
and Chestnut to make fibrous roots. To get a desirable root sys-
tem Fuller} advises sowing nuts “in shallow pots or boxes, and in
nearly pure sand, applying liquid manure as needed, to insure a
vigorous growth.”

8 Non-suckering Suckers are always a nuisance because they
must be removed, else they will often outgrow the cion.

9. Adapted to a wide range of soils. The adaptation of a stock
to both sand and clay will go toward making the success of a variety
from the commercial standpoint.

* Bois, D. Pyrocydonia Winckleri. Revue Horticole, Jan. 16, 1914, pp. 27-29.
i Fuller, A.S. The Propagation of Plants, p. 233.

GRAFTAGE 89

10. Straight stocks for weepers and standards. For grafting
this class of plants, a crooked stock is objectionable. During the
Winter or early Spring cut down the plants and encourage one shoot
only to grow. Cut out the weaker ones. In growing stocks for
weepers the growth of a leader is not stopped, for side shoots are
not wanted. Stocks for standards can often be stopped in growth
after reaching the proper height or they can be pruned in order to
form a head the same season.

SELECTION OF WOOD FOR CIONS

The material for making cions should be collected, preferably
in the Midwinter, and is best stored in moist sand or sawdust and
kept cool. The wood may, however, be gathered any time before
the buds start in the Spring. For making cions the strong, vigorous
wood of the previous season’s growth should be chosen which have
pulp matured buds on each branch.

TIME TO GRAFT

Grafting is usually done when the buds of the stock are be-
ginning to swell, which indicates that the sap is now active. As
the different trees and shrubs vegetate at various times in the
nursery there is a well-planned succession of grafting for the various
species of plants.

THE IMPORTANT POINTS IN ALL GRAFTING

Plants which can be grafted have a layer of bark which covers
the wood. Usually this bark, at least on the young branches, will
peel from the wood. It is absolutely essential that the tissue
between the bark and the wood of both stock and cion be in contact.
This layer is known as the cambium layer. It has the ability to
grow wood tissue from its inner side and bark from the outer; by
such knitting together the tissues heal nicely.

After the graft is made, especially in outdoor work, the whole
area of cut surface in stock and cion must be waxed over to check
evaporation from the tissues.

Grafts may be made: (1) upon seedlings, a method especially
used in propagating horticultural varieties of ornamental trees and
shrubs. (2) upon young trees as with Apples, and other fruits; (3)
upon the trunk and branches of older trees; (4) upon roots; or.
(5) upon the crown of the plant

WHIP OR TONGUE GRAFTING

Whip grafting is largely used when grafting small stocks. Both
the stock and cion are cut diagonally; this cut should be long and

90 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

straight. A vertical cut is then made in
both. Practice will show that the cut
must be made a trifle to one side of the
diagonal cut. The two parts are fitted
together as shown in the cut (fig. 54).
Care must be taken to have the cam-
bium layers in contact. If the stock is
larger in diameter than the cion, the
cion must be placed at one side. The
union is then wrapped with waxed string
or raffia. The waxed string used is No.
18 knitting cotton. The balls are soaked

Fig. 55.—Whip graft-
ing on roots. The
stock and cion are fre-
quently made longer
than shown in cut
(See page 91)

Fig. 54.—Whip or tongue
grafting. A, Stock and
cion properly cut. B, The
parts fitted together and
wrapped with waxed string

~~

<<

in melted grafting wax and
laid away to dry. This
string is just weak enough
to be broken by the hands.
In whip-grafting Pears, it
seems best to wax the
grafts rather than use the
string. In order to harden
the wax quickly the grafts
are dropped in a pail of
water.

BSS
Wy,

GRAFTAGE 91

ROOT GRAFTING

The whip or tongue is the most common
method of root grafting Apples. The stocks are
dug and stored in the Autumn and grafted in
January or February. Whole roots may be used,
grafting at the crown Sometimes each root is
cut into two or three pieces, in which case two or
three grafts may be made (see fig. 55). The
grafts are packed in moist sand or sawdust and
stored in a cool cellar, where during the Winter
the grafts will callus. Care is taken to label
the grafts which are tied together in bundles of
100. As soon as the soil can be worked in the
Spring the grafts are dibbled out in rows, so
that the top bud is just above the surface of the
soil. For extensive plantings, furrows seven or

Fig. 56.—

Cions for eight inches deep are frequently turned, the
ree grafts are set in the row and the soil thrown
(See page 92) back and firmed, either by hand, with tamps or

by a machine with oblique wheels which
presses the soil about the grafts.

CLEFT GRAFTING

Cleft grafting consists in splitt-
ing a stock after it has been cut
off perfectly even and _ inserting
one or two cions. ‘The cions
should be wedge-shaped (see
fig. 56) and of equal size.
In cutting the wedge great

care is necessary in order
to have both sides straight,
not. lopsided nor scooped
out. The lowest bud on
the cion is best placed when
itjis just above the cut sides
of the wedge. A _ special
tool may be used to make :
the cleft and hold it open ==

Fig. 57.—Cleft grafting.

A, Use of grafting tool

for making cleft. B,
Inserting cion

HOTELL OIC te

92 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

while the cions are being inserted (see
fig. 57).

Cleft grafting is used principally
when the stocks are over one inch
in diameter, making it possible to
insert two cions. Should both grow,
the weaker is cut out at the end of
the first year. As inall grafting, the
cambiums of both should be in con-
tact. To insure this the cions should
be inserted a trifle diagonally (see
fig. 58-A).

As soon as the graft is made, all
cut surfaces must be covered with

A B wax (see fig. 58-B); even place a
pooviieeey eT assays > the slight dab at the ends of the cions.

The Cacti are easily cleft grafted.
Pereskia (see fig. 80) and Cereus are the common stocks for such
Cacti as Epiphyllum, which is very drooping (see pp. 109-110).

Peony roots may be cleft grafted, especially Paeonia Moutan,
which is grafted either on the herbaceous or the shrubby stock. Bind
the graft with copper wire; raffia decays before the union takes place.

VENEER GRAFTING

Veneer grafting (see fig. 59) is practiced mostly in the greenhouse
upon ornamentals. The graft is very simply made, consisting

merely of cutting a chip from the stock and fitting a cion to it.
In the greenhouse a

4

)
yy)

Vyue

ball of moss around z & a Nee =
the union is sufficient. ks A e Se 33
When used out of 22a ieee =

Wil eladiyy yt

CUNT

doors the cut edges
must be thoroughly
waxed. The stock
need not be headed
back until the cion is
eTowing nicely. Cer-
tain of the plants
which are more diffi-
cult to graft will best
be placed in a Ward- B C
lan case, or grafting Fig. 59.—Veneer grafting. A, The stock notched.

B, The cion cut to fit the stock. C, Stock and cion
frame, where the at- together

Wy)

Nyy?
Aphiyy ea) yet pa

Wn

wv

po

GRAFTAGE 93

mosphere can be confined. Many of the evergreens and Rhododen-
drons are propagated by this method.

SIDE GRAFTING

Very closely resembling the veneer graft is the side graft. A
diagonal cut is made in the stock, which should be long. Note the
sketch (fig. 60), which shows how the cion is made and _ inserted
into this cut. Plants by this method may be propagated either when
in full growth or when dormant. Waxing is necessary out of
doors; tying with waxed string indoors holds the cion in place,
If the stock is headed back slightly. the growth will be encouraged,

Fig. 60.—Side grafting the Rose. The cut in the stock should not be so nearly
through the stem and is best made longerand more acutely than shown in the sketch

SPLICE GRAFTING

An exceedingly simple form of grafting is the splice graft. Stock
and cion are cut with a long diagonal cut as for the whip graft.
The two parts are tied together without further fitting, although the
stock and cion should be approximately the same size. This
method is used on Roses (see page 136) and Cacti (see fig. 61), and
is only successful in the greenhouse.

94 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

SADDLE GRAFT

In making the saddle
graft the stock is cut in
the form of a wedge.
The cion may either
have a section removed
to fit over the wedge or
it may be merely split
upward (see fig. 62).
This method is success-
fully employed in graft-
ing Rhododendrons.

BRIDGE GRAFTING

When trees are gir- Fig. 61.—Splice grafting Pereskia Cactus

dled, or nearly so, the (See page 93)

wound may be encour- f
aged to heal and the sap caused to flow, by bridging the injury

by cions made in the form of a wedge at each end and fitted
into V-shaped cuts in the bark. A tack holds the cion in place,
but the exposed cut areas must be waxed. (See fig. 63.)

This method has been widely used by the French in restoring
mutilated fruit trees in France.

“Throughout the entire district devastated by the Germans
there were thousands of trees that the close pursuit of the French
kept the Germans from having time completely to cut down.

Instead, the ‘kultured’ tree-killers cut off a circle of bark around
the trunk of the tree, which

with a few days’ exposure to
the sun would be sufficient to
kill Peach, Plum, Apple, Apri-
cot, and Cherry trees that had
been half a century attaining
their actual productiveness.
“So great was the number
of trees that had to be dressed
in this way that the entire
available supply of grafting
preparation was quickly ex-
hausted. Tar was then used
as a substitute, and, finally

‘
'

ment nt i
Pe ~

in}
CONT
"ah cog —,

NC

BARRA eR OU pe
USLOTLUUP LN aT tive

AMA HRT

Hl

sit road de

HUH CCL Leyes

Peni i Cai?

AIT (tatty

Fig. 62.—Saddle"grafting

GRAFTAGE 95

loamy clay. Substitutes for
surgical bandages also had to
be found, and in the end it was
discovered that moss twisted
and tied about the dressed
wound was as effective as any-
thing else.’’*

CROWN GRAFTING

The crown graft is a slight
modification of the cleft graft. §
In this case the stock is not
split, but the cions are cut
various shapes and fitted into
the cuts in the stock. The
cions may be tapered as in the
cleft graft or they may be cut
off straight at the base as in
fig.64. Another kind of crown
eraft is made by removing
triangular chips from the stock
and using a cion to fit. A Fig. 63—Bridge grafting. Note how the
special inlaying tool is used °° “in tne igee ee
for the purpose. (See fig. 65.)

_Crown grafting is
used extensively upon
very large trees which
have been cut down.
Many cions may be
inserted. They must
be tied and waxed in
place. To prevent
transpiration it will
be best to cover the
whole stump with
<SzZ| wax paper. The
=| unions will not be
=== very strong and some
: at stake should be pro-
Mie nef ingcromtpat fiter Balt," vided at thestart, for

* Wood, Henry.
Gazette (London).

2S
-=
=o
=
—
=
=
=

My

>

ih

\

MY
iinet
(AAA

(i
(ult

(
NA

(\

i MMMMIM iin
(

1i/
‘
\
|

MMMM
\
\

Myyrerepun ae

From an article reported in the Literary Digest from the Westminster

96 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

when the cion grows,
little surface should be
exposed to the wind.

In the areas devas-
tated by the Germans in
the war where trees have
been cut down, the
French are crown graft-
ing the trees. Regard-
ing this work we find re-
ported in the Literary
Digest the following com-
ment from L’/Ilustration
(Paris, April 28, 1917):

“The work of repara-
tion was taken up in
time, and Nature was
given a chance to act.
When the bark of the
oldest trees was too

(deen Ccud,

nC

‘Tees

“They tye ieee

VAT TERE

|
citi! i iitn

i taletae

h \

(ff
Th ll ATTETTIELU
(EAL We sesce crag

Heli

1
|

(il

i

({{

s>
=
=
~
~~
~:
~-
~:
nm
=:
=
=-
="
=:
=
=-
==
=
=-
=
a
~
Se
~
~
~

Fig. 65.—Inlayed crown grafting. It is well to
have a special inlaying knife for cutting this

l d da sort of a crown graft but it can be made without
deep y groove to admit one. Thecionis cut with a triangular face with
the passage of young sap, a notch which will act as a support upon the

: stock. By placing the cion upon the stock the
the old trees were elim- section of wood can be marked with a knife .and

inated, i ot rankseniot easily removed (After Baltet) (See page 95)
exceeding 25 centimeters in diameter were left to send up shoots.
Four or five of the most vigorous of the shoots will be used for
erafting-slips next year.

Some of the trunks saved have been grafted even with the
ground when planted, so the new growths, springing from the
trunks at a height of 80 centimeters, will bear, above the graft,
exactly the same kind of fruit that the tree bore at first. Other
trees not the issue of grafts, but seedlings, whose bark has not
been roughened by age, are expected to recuperate very rapidly.

When the mutilated tree did not measure more than 20 centi-
meters in diameter the ‘crowning’ method has been used. ‘This
means that the trunk has been sawed in a slightly oblique direction
to facilitate the course of the rain (fig. 66, a), and then from three
to six grafting-slips have been inserted all around the trunk, between
the bark and the wood. For use by the ‘crowning’ method, the
erafting-slips are prepared as shown in figs. 66, b and c, and set
in 8 or 10 centimeters apart, the space varying according to the
diameter of the trunk (fig. 66, d). When set in place, the graft-
slips are ligatured, and the whole—wound, bark, and ligature—-

(

ey
UU U

|

li

mill

ll

GRAFTAGE 97

carefully covered with grafting wax. The slips (which must be in
a state of complete rest) will be found in France growing in a crown
around the top of the mutilated trunk. i

TERMINAL BUD GRAFTING

With certain plants the tip of the twig of a seedling is split
lengthwise through the terminal bud and the cion is inserted as in the
ordinary cleft graft. This method is performed upon the Walnut
and the Pine according to Baltet. This method is known as
terminal bud grafting. (See fig. 67). It is best practiced indoors
and is here presented in the hope that it may be a method by which
some other difficult plants may be grafted.

Fig. 66.—Crown grafting in war zone. (From L’Jllustration, Paris)
(See page 96)

BUDDING

When the cion is merely a bud, the process is known under the
specific name of budding, a term less accurate than the French
term bud-grafting. The bud is usually accompanied by a small
piece of bark, and generally in cutting most buds there will also be
a small piece of wood. If done carefully the wood is best removed,
but the buds grow fully as well without going to this trouble.
The stock for budding should be in a growing condition.

When to bud. The bark of the stock must peel readily. The
buds must be large and plump in the axils of the leaves, because
immature buds do not grow. The bud wood or bud stick should
be kept in moist paper or sphagnum moss as soon as cut.

Prof. U. P. Hedrick, the expert horticulturist of the Geneva
Experiment Station, gives the following dates for budding: Rose,
July 1 to 10; Pear, July 10 to 15; Apple, July 15 to August 1; Plum

98 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

(St. Julien stock), July 15 to
August 1; Plum (Myrobalan
stock), August 15 to September
1; Cherry (Mazzard), July 20 to
August 1; Cherry (Mahaleb),
August 20 to September 1;
Quince, July 25 to August 15;
Peach, August 20 to September

10.
Fig. 67.—Terminal bud grafting. Pine. The tip of the stock (B) is split and
cion (A) isinserted (C) (See page 97)

GRAFTAGE 99

SHIELD BUDDING

The simplest method of budding is known as shield budding.
The buds are cut from the bud stick, holding the branch as shown
in the cut (fig. 68), with the top end toward the budder. The cut
is made downward and as smooth as possible. Professional budders
prepare the bud stick by cutting the buds almost entirely through,
allowing them to hang so that they may be removed just before
inserting on the stock.

The stock is best gone over several days before budding so that
the weeds are removed from the base of the plants. Interfering
leaves and branches are also cut out. In most nursery budding,
except for weeping varieties and standards, the buds are inserted
an inch and a half above the soil. With a knife a T is cut in the
stock (see fig. 69); this may be right-side up or inverted. Much
is being said of late of the advantage of the inverted T; the
buds may be inserted more
easily and shed the water better.

The edges are peeled back and

the bud is inserted so that it fits ;

flatly. Should a piece of bark \; Y

protrude above the bud it may be aN

removed. The bud is now tied ett \ |

firmly with raffia to keep out ve J iN

water; the whole cut surface, $ vee A a } \

except the bud, being covered. cn y q f : \
About ten days after budding, WAS J Se Tabet

the buds will have united to the Fe a a \ | \

stock and the raffia should be cut, \

else the young bud will be
strangled. Plants budded early
will often start to push a shoot,
then the top may be cut off en-
tirely or it may be‘sawed partially
through and the top bent over.
Eventually, however, the top
should be removed. With plants
budded later the bud will remain
dormant through the Winter and
start in the Spring. The main fig. 68.—Cuttings buds. The sketch
shoot should not be cut until after ae Bea Ea ata he ae
the bud has grown in the Spring _ tially removed from the twig until

ready forinsertion; then the bud may
(see fig. 70). be easily cut straight across

100 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

The Peach may _ be
budded either in June or
September. Regarding
June budding, Joseph Mee-
han writes: “Whoever pos-
sesses strong Peach stocks
can secure by Fall, Peach
trees large enough to sell,
if budded in June or early
July. These would be what
are called June budded
Peaches in the trade. Bud-
ding is done now instead of
in’ September, and the
stocks are then treated in
a way to cause the buds to
erow at once instead of
remaining dormant until
Spring, as is the case with
the buds set in September. Fig. 69.—Shield budding. Showing T-shaped
The September budding cut in stock; the bud and the budded tree
é = a (See page 99)
is performed by inserting

the bud near the ground, but in the June work it can
be placed higher up, so as to increase the height of the
tree when offered for sale. Below the height branches
are wanted on a Peach tree, it is immaterial whether the
part below be seedling or what, so the bud can be
placed up a foot or more, if the vigor of the stock will
permit of it. The stock should be headed back to
about six inches above the bud. As soon as the union
of the bud is assured, strip off the foliage from the
part above the bud; but do not cut the stem away until
later in the season, as it well serves the purpose of a
stake to which to tie the growing bud, and it is better
to leave the foliage below the bud as well for awhile,
cutting it away gradually as the bud advances. To
ioe oer strip it all off as soon as the bud starts has a weakening
ig. —

A budded fect, which is soon perceived.”
seedling

rel Cts

was

AG

HNWS eeti, dh ceacel,

Cotas
wettenl

A

ye

OO

WEL (tres
ties Mb (c eevee

yy

at

Ctl
fel i)
Way,
Yity

))

n

WY WY

Uitte
Wy,
TMI

{

Or
re j at
it

! \
W TA AN I
, Wish
J
i
lit

rel
/
t

dtu cef{eitt

TT
' ln nh
Willey Heine

pil

7
TFT T tA)
a Wy) ma)

ld nteceigilt

eetlsfte

ecu UVES LUAE GAUL CCC UUTTY
ot

Pi avd
mel
nt
t
Yep dap
enn

fy eye ab is ale one
Sythe anki

tree. Note PATCH BUDDING OR FLUTE BUDDING

Hal thebed

at the base = . ie

Aa seeeted It is much more difficult to make a successful

togrow.The patch bud than a shield bud. The bud is cut from

t Ww °
Le remove the branch with a square of bark and a square the

101

RAFTAGE

Y
a

C

poesN SI YouBIG e[OYM B pNq o[FuIS B Jo peeqysut

‘SuoT}ei1edo aAISsa00NS 94} SULMOYs ‘sutppnq st1dg— Ty, ‘SL

102 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

same size is cut from the stock (see figs. 72 and 73). The bud
must fit nicely into the stock, otherwise the union is difficult.
This method is used mainly with very thick barked plants and is
done in late Spring.

When the whole ring of bark is removed with the bud, the
process is called ring or annular budding (see p. 158, fig. 95). It is
merely a modification of the patch bud and is sometimes used on
the Grape.

The patch budded plants are treated just as are the shield
budded ones.

H-BUDDING

The nature of the H-budding method can be readily seen from
the sketch (fig. 74). An H
is cut in the bark, the bud
is inserted beneath the
double flaps and bound
with raffia.

UAC ARINC

Naar

ltl

MLCETETTTO

INARCHING

Inarching is a method
of approach grafting. It
is a simple method of
cutting a portion of bark
from the stems of two plants
(see fig. 75-A) and tying
them securely together so
that the cut surfaces of each

-may knit. The plants are.

erowing in both cases.
There are many modifications of this simple method.

When the plants have united one of them is cut from its root
and is allowed to grow on the roots of the other. At the same
time the head of the undesirable sort is removed. The parts of
the plant are frequently joined by a tongue graft (see fig. 76).

Beech, Birch, Maple, Larch and various evergreens are often
increased in this way, whenever desirable varieties of them cannot
easily be increased in any other way. When stocks are to be
used in this way, it is better that they be well established in pots

by potting them in March. It is still better to have them potted a
year in advance.

L1CACLCC (CCU LTEET (UU

CHIC IC(CCCCEY

Fig. 72.—Patch budding

GRAFTAGE 103

Dr. David Fairchild, in
the introduction to the
bulletin on the seedling in-
arch of G.W. Oliver (1911),*
remarks that one of the
greatest drawbacks of hor-
ticulture is the time re-
quired to test a new variety
originated from seed, and
any method which shortens
the time required to make
such tests must appeal to
everyone, whether an orig-
inator of new varieties or a
tester of them, as of the
ofeatest value.

Mr. Oliver writes: “It
was discovered by the
writer that a large number
of hard-wooded shrubs and
trees are capable of very
rapid increase when
propagated by pro-
cesses which may be termed
the seedling-inarch and '
nurse-plant methods.

These methods are Fig. (3.—Patch bud of Mango. The patch bud
inexpensive and, owing to is welladapted for budding thick barked trees

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their simplicity, may
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104 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

of hard-wooded plants raised by means
= f/ of hybridization. They can be used in
J manipulating seedlings of rare trees
and shrubs intended for crossing, so
that each plant will bloom in a much
shorter time than if left to grow on its
own roots. Seedlings of all hard-wooded
plants, resulting from collections made
by travelers in foreign countries, may
thus be brought to the flowering stage
and their value determined quickly.
The most remarkable feature of the
new methods lies not only in their
simplicity, but also in the certainty of
the unions which result. The writer
has had very few unsuccessful unions
and none among those classes of plants
where the most suitable stocks are
known and in common use. Not only
is it possible to inarch a seedling a few
weeks old to a large stock, but a
moderate sized seedling stock can be
inarched to a shoot of a rare shrub or
tree having the same diameter as the
stem of the seedling. A satisfactory
. 3 union may thus be induced where other
Fic. 75—-Inarching. A,—The methods of a sexual propagation have

method of cutting off a slight . . s
amount of bark of both plants invariably failed.

to be inarched. | 2 ee two Rose seedlings resulting from cross-
tst t : site °
ace page 102) ing varieties have been inarched on

Manetti stocks when the seedlings were
from three to four weeks old, and they produced maximum sized
flowers long in advance of those on seedling plants growing on
their own roots. The rare Finger Lime, Citrus australasica, some-
times seen in a dwarf, sickly condition in greenhouse collections,
has borne fruit two years after inarching on one of its con-
geners; and within nine months after flowering, hybrid seedlings
between this Citrus and a cultivated Orange were in their turn
inarched on 2-year old Lemon seedlings.

Very young seedlings of hundreds of other rare hard-wooded
plants may be worked on the same or allied species or genera, and
their value determined much in advance of the time when
they would flower on their own roots, or on plants obtained by

GRAFTAGE 105

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Fig. 76.—Modification of inarch. Instead of simple inarching; the two plants to be
inarched may be cut with tongues which will fit together (See page 102)

crafting or budding from the mature shoots of the seedlings.

Hard-wooded seedlings which need to be flowered in the shortest
possible space of time, in order to determine their value, are used
for inarching as soon as the first leaves attain a fairly firm texture,
as, for example, in the case of the Mangosteen. But when seedlings

106 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

Fig. 77.—Seedling Roses. Note that the seedlings are potted at the side of the pot
in two-inch pots

are used as stocks for the vegetative propagation of established
varieties by uniting the stocks to small branches, then larger
seedlings are used, as for example, in the case of the Mango.”

INARCHING ROSE SEEDLINGS

“Seedlings of some of the Rose groups, resulting from crossing
distinct varieties or otherwise, take more than one season to pro-
duce flowers of maximum size to enable the breeder to judge of
their merits. They take much longer to develop when budded on
Manetti or other stocks, because in that case a considerable time
has to elapse before the growth of the seedling is strong enough
to give buds and wood fit for propagation by budding or by grafting.
Rose seedlings three to four weeks old, or after the first few character
leaves are developed, lend themselves very readily to the seedling-
inarch method of propagation. Tea and Hybrid Tea seedling
Roses will give flowers of maximum size very quickly after the
tiny seedlings are inarched to strong-growing Manetti or other
stocks, thereby saving much time in preliminary tests.

The operation of inarching is simplified if each seedling is pricked
off into a 2-inch pot (fig. 77) shortly after the cotyledons are developed.
The seedling should be placed as near the rim as possible. In two
or three weeks the seedling makes sufficient growth to be removed
from the pot, when a little fresh soil is held in place around the root
by a piece of cloth about 5 inches square (fig. 78). The ball con-
taining the roots of the seedling is secured to the stock, the stem
of the seedling being placed close to it, so that the inarch may be
easily accomplished (fig. 79). The union is a rapid one and be-
comes perfect some time before the cotyledons decay.*

* Author’s Note.—As above described, a small piece of bark is removed from both
stock and cion before tying the seedling to the stock.

GRAFTAGE 107

It is well known that many seedling Roses on their own roots
produce flowers before the cotyledons decay, but the flowers are
necessarily small and have little to indicate their eventual value.
The seedling-inarch system shortens very considerably the period
between germination and the production of flowers of maximum
size—a material aid to the breeder in determining the value of
the seedling within a few months after germination.

Fig. 78.—Seedling Roses. The plants have been removed from the pots
and wrapped in burlap (See page 106)

Seedlings raised from seeds of new and rare trees, shrubs, and
vines may be induced to grow very quickly if used as cions when a
few weeks old, by inarching to strong-growing plants of other
species of the same genus, or in some cases on species of other
genera of the same family. This has been done recently with such
plants as Chestnuts, Walnuts, Hawthorns, Oaks, and many others.
It is not necessarily done for the purpose of hastening the flowering
or the fruiting of new plants, but to give quickly an abundance of
material for propagation by budding or grafting when the new
material is assumed to be valuable.

If a hardwood seedling of hybrid origin is tied to a large stock
and they fail to unite, there is little or no danger of losing the
seedling, provided its roots are kept damp during the period of
making the attempt. If the inarch is not successful, the seedling
can be repotted and grown in the usual way.”

108 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

TOP GRAFTING AND DOUBLE WORKING

Trees which are not of the desired variety, even when old, can
be grafted at various points in the top. It should take three or four
years to work over a whole tree, certain branches being chosen
each year. The younger the tree, the easier and more quickly
it can be worked.

Fig. 79.—Inarched seedling Roses. Just as in figure 75A the bark is cut on both
stock and cion and tied together. The seedling Rose is tied to the rose stock
(See pages 106, 107)

Cleft grafting is mainly used in carrying on this work. It must
always be remembered that the cions will grow straight up; the
clefts must, therefore, be made horizontal rather than vertical.

In some cases varieties which make poor growth or are sus-
ceptible to decay at the soil line are double worked; in other words,
some strong variety is root grafted on a stock, then later the second
variety is cleft grafted on the strong stock.

Bosc, Dix, Dunmore, Josephine de Malines, Marie Louise,
Paradise, Shelden, Washington, Winter Nelis and, some other Pears.
do not graft readily on the Quince. A strong growing sort, such as.
Duchesse d’Angouléme, Vicar of Wakefield or Diel, is used upon
the Quince; then the other varieties are budded a few inches above:
the graft.

GRAFTAGE 109

The Tompkins King, Grimes Golden and some other Apple
varieties are best top worked upon the Spy.

GRAFTING WAX

A wax composed of resin and beeswax is most successful in this
hot country. In certain European work, waxes containing some
alcohol are used, but they are apt to melt. A good wax is made of
four parts (by weight) of resin, two parts of beeswax and one part
of beef tallow. The beeswax and resin are broken up and the
whole mixture melted. When thoroughly melted, the mixture is
poured in a pail of cold water. When hard enough to handle it
should be worked like molasses candy, pulled until it has a grain
and becomes a creamy light brown. When applied the hands should
be well greased. The resin makes the wax hard, the beeswax gives
it oiliness and the tallow keeps it soft.

Applying the wax. The wax should be applied by working it in
the hands in the form of a flat ribbon. Start in one place and go as
far as possible with one piece; a quarter of an inch or less is thick
enough, but let all joints between different pieces of wax be thor-
oughly worked together so that no air nor water may enter. Cover
all cut surfaces. Some workers even wax the upper ends of the
cions.

Waxed string is prepared by soaking for a few minutes a, ball of
No. 18 knitting cotton in the kettle of melted wax. Waxed band-
ages are prepared the same way; the cloth should be torn into
widths of a half inch and rolled before dipping into the wax.

CACTUS GRAFTING

Some Cacti are grafted to cause earlier flowering. With others
to increase the decorative appearance of the trailing sorts such as
the Epiphyllum or Christmas Cactus, they are placed upon upright
growing sorts such as Pereskia and Cereus. Furthermore, when
plants become so decayed at their roots that cuttings are difficult
to obtain, the small tip may be grafted upon a vigorous stock.

Cleft (see fig. 80), saddle and splice (see fig. 61) grafts are
the most used. Both methods give a good area for the union
of the parts. In preparing the stock for the cleft graft, the
clefts are cut V-shaped, rather than split. The cions should
be trimmed wedge-shaped to fit the cleft. As the sticky sap of
the Cactus allows the cion to slip from the stock readily, a spine

110 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

f

TTT TOU OOD re tere

Fig. 80.—Cleft grafting Cacti. A, The

stock, a Pereskia, is prepared by cutting

out a wedge-shaped piece. C, Thecion, an

Epiphyllum, is a short branch; a little of

the outside is removed from each side of

the base. B, the stock and cion fitted
together

from an Opuntia or a Pereskia
is frequently used which will
pin the cion to the stock.
Wm. G. Becker, of the New
York Botanical Garden, be-
lieves that grafts made indoors
are benefited by waxing with
ordinary candle wax dropped
on the cut surfaces.

In grafting Mammillaria,
the Echinocactus, the Echino-
cereus and other globose or
thick sorts, a stock is selected
which is about the same diam-
eter as the cion. The top of
the stock is cut off perfectly
level; the cion is cut in the
same way; the cut surfaces
are fitted together and tied
with a cloth or soft cord.

CHAPTER V

FRUIT STOCKS

Apples — Collecting Seeds — Sowing Seeds — Dwarf Apples — Apri-
cots — Cherries — Peaches — Pears — Plums — Pedigreed Stock.

APPLES

HE common stock for the Apple is that grown from the seed

of the French Crab Apple, which is found wild in Europe.

The Apples are used for cider, the seeds being kept and sown. The

seedlings are quite uniform in their growth and are supplied to the

American nurserymen so cheaply that much stock is imported rather
than being grown from seed.

There is, however, an extensive acreage of Apple stock growing in
the neighborhood of Kansas and. the Central West. Formerly
quantities of seeds were collected in Vermont, but as this seed was
obtained from the grafted varieties, rather than from seedlings, in
many cases, it proved to be inferior and is gradually losing favor.

COLLECTING SEEDS

Should the orchardist or nurseryman wish to save his own seed,
he may collect the pomace at the cider mill and place it in a barrel
of water to soak. The pulp will gradually come to the top and can
be skimmed off; the seeds will settle to the bottom. By screening
through two sieves the seeds are cleaned sufficiently. The first
screen should be just coarse enough to let the seeds pass through
and the second sieve should be finer, so that the fine pulp may be
removed, leaving the seeds. The seeds are spread out in thin
layers to dry, after which they are stored in a cool, moist place until
Autumn, when they are sown.

SOWING SEEDS

Apple seeds are usually sown during November in special seed
beds which are prepared with a light sandy loam. Four feet will
be a convenient width for working the beds. Lath screens should

111

COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

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FRUIT STOCKS 113

be provided. In the Spring, when germination has taken place,
the seeds are taken from the beds and sown in the nursery row.
Had the seeds been sown directly in the nursery there might
possibly have been greater chance for vacant spots due to poor ger-
mination, and at the same time the weeds would have come up
earlier than the Apple seedlings. Most Apple seedlings are root-
erafted (see page 91) but this is often accompained by crown gall.

DWARF APPLES

The stocks used for dwarfing the Apple are known as the Doucin
and the Paradise. The Paradise is the more dwarf. Incidentally,
it may be stated that dwarf trees are hardly as popular in the United
States as in Europe for the trees are less hardy, the tree roots are at
the surface of the soil and are frequently injured by cultivation.
When any of the dwarf trees are planted, care must be taken that
the union of the stock and cion is not placed beneath the surface
of the soil, or else the cion will root, and being on its own roots,
will lose its dwarfness.

APRICOTS

Apricots are usually budded upon seedling stocks or upon the
Peach. ‘The stones are treated as for Peaches. They are budded
about the first of September.

Some propagators hold that the Peach being better adapted toa
range of soils than the Apricot is, therefore, a more successful
stock. Prof. Budd, however, advises the native Plums as the best
stock, holding that they are superior to the Myrobalan or St.
Julien stocks. For wet locations the Plum is especially useful.

CHERRIES

Fruit growers and nurserymen are, at present, having a contro-
yersy as to just which stock is the best for commercial Cherry
culture. The Mahaleb and the Mazzard are the two sorts most
used. According to Hedrick,* the fruit growers hold that the
Mazzard is the best stock for all orchard varieties; the nurserymen
believe the Mahaleb better for the Sour Cherries and really good
for the Sweet sorts as well. The Mazzard stock is more expensive.

The Mazzard Cherry, P. avium, is the type from which has come
the varieties of Sweet Cherries. It is tall growing. The tree is not
*Hedrick, U. P. Cherries of New York.

114 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

of the hardiest type but is a vigorous grower and is healthy, except
for its susceptibility to attacks of the Shot-hole Fungus which makes
it difficult to grow in the nursery. This stock is readily grown
from seed.

The Mahaleb Cherry, P. Mahaleb, is a bush-like Cherry, with
fine branches; the leaves are small. The fruits are green, turning
yellow, and when ripe become black; but they are hard, bitter and
astringent. Mahaleb, therefore, differs widely from the sweet
and the sour Cherry. It is propagated mostly by seed, but may
be increased by cuttings and suckers. It is much easier to get
a good looking tree when Mahaleb is used because it is adapted
to a great range of soils; is hardier to heat and cold; less particular
about cultivation; will stand more cutting in nursery when pruning
is necessary; is less susceptible to aphis; is usually not so susceptible
to the Shot-hole fungus and is more easily budded. Cherries on
Mahaleb ripen their wood earlier and may be dug earlier; for the
fruit grower Cherries budded on Mahaleb are hardier for the same
reason. Sweet Cherries should be on Mazzard stock; the Mahaleb
budded sorts are dwarf growing and varieties come into bearing
earlier, although the size of Cherries is the same. Better unions are
made on the Mazzard. The Mahaleb thrives on a greater variety of
soils. The varieties on Mazzard are more productive and _ pro-
fitable than on Mahaleb.

Cherries are usually budded, but they are successfully grafted,
upon seedling roots. When planted deep enough the cion takes
root; the variety is then upon its own roots.

PEACHES

Much of our Peach stock is home grown. ‘The stones are
gathered from the wild Peaches in the mountains of Tennessee and
the Carolinas. The seeds collected at canneries are thought to
produce short lived trees. Peach seed may be sown in flats of a
sandy soil and exposed to the Winter frosts or they may be placed
in pits, mere holes dug in the soil, in which the stones may be kept
moist and to which the frost may enter. Peaches are usually
budded, although some growers report having been successful in
grafting them.

In the South, Peaches are June budded but in the North budding
is practiced in August or September. See page 100.

Care must be exercised in selecting bud-wood that mature
buds are used; there are usually two or three immature buds at the
ends of the branches. The current year’s growth also has two

115

FRUIT STOCKS

116 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

sorts of buds, *branch buds and fruit buds; branch buds must be
used as the fruit buds merely flower and are gone, while branch
buds grow to make the top of the tree. The fruit buds are fre-
quently found on each side of the branch bud; they may be
broken off, as they are of no use. When only one bud is found in
the axil of the leaf it is generally a branch bud.

PEARS

The stock used for the Pear is mostly raised from seed gathered
from the cider mills of France. This Pear is known as the Perry
Pear. Often seedlings of the Kieffer are used for stocks, for these
prove very blight resistant. Some stock is obtained from Japan
in which case the stocks are seedlings of the Chinese or Japanese
Sand Pear. Regarding the use of the latter Pear, Joseph Meehan
writes:

“The Sand Pear and its offspring, the Le Conte, are found un-
suitable for using as stocks for ordinary Pears, much as they may be
desirable for the Kieffer, Garber and other kindred bloods. When
the ordinary Pears are worked on them they grow nicely for a year
or two, then almost cease growing and dwindle away. Whether
this is true, too, in respect to the Kieffer itself, when its seeds are
srown, is not so well attested. As it is a hybrid between the com-
mon Sand Pear and a common one, supposedly the Bartlett, its
seedlings may be better suited for stocks than pure Sand Pear
seedlings would be; still, those who have tried it do not appear to
consider it as good for their purpose as the common French Pear
stocks. Australian papers speak of the Kieffer seeds being used
by the nurserymen of that country at the present time. What
attracts those who use the seeds of the Sand Pear tribe, is, that the
seedlings are just the thing for stocks for the Kieffer, this latter
being popular everywhere as a profitable market Pear; and then
the vigorous growth of these seedlings would fit them for stocks
for all sorts of Pears could they be got to thrive on them.”

Dwarf Pears. Dwarf Pears are obtained by budding or grafting
on the Quince, the former method being preferred. Most Quince
stock is obtained from Angers, France. The Pear seems to produce
larger fruits when grafted on the Quince than it does on the Pear.
Peculiarly enough, the Quince is not successfully grafted upon the
Pear.

The Kieffer Pear should not be dwarfed; it usually outgrows the
stock and results in a top-heavy tree.

*Branch buds are frequently called leaf buds but this is an incorrect term because
each bud of this sort produces -ranches.

FRUIT STOCKS 17

PLUMS

Most growers prefer the Myrobalan Plum stock for general
purposes. The native Plums are also used for American varieties
and some nurserymen prefer the Peach for the Japanese sorts,
when they are to be grown on sandy soils. The St. Julien is a
variety which is propagated by the French nurserymen and fre-
quently used as a stock for Domestica and Insititia when it can be
obtained cheaply.

The Myrobalan is obtained from France and is raised from seed.
Prof. Hedrick* mentions that its roots are apt to Winter-kill in the
colder regions and in the warm sections of this country the plants
sucker badly.

The St. Julien stocks make trees longer lived, hardier, deeper
feeding, less suckering and well adapted to changed soils. It is,
however, difficult to bud; the young trees do not make the good
growth that is made on the Myrobalan. Besides the poor growth
the young trees are rather susceptible to fungus attacks in the
nursery rows.

The Peach as a stock proves successful on sandy or gravelly soil.
The trees make a rapid growth, and bear when young. There is
little tendency toward sprouting at the roots. The budding is easy
and the nursery plants have a good appearance, besides being pro-
duced cheaply. Especially successful on the Peach are the Japan-
ese or Triflora Plums. Prof. Hedrick says that the Lombard, the
Damsons, the Yellow Egg, the Washington, the Domestica and
the Insititia varieties do not unite readily with the Peach.

Mariana stocks root readily from cuttings and give a good
nursery appearance, but they are inclined to sucker.

The Americana stock is the only safe one for the coldest parts of
this country. They sucker badly but produce good root systems.
Americana stocks are not extensively employed by nurserymen
because of their price and their unknown value.

Munsoniana seedlings are adapted for stocks when the orchard is
planted in low wet lands.

In top working Plums let the work be done early in the life of
the tree. Later working will make slow and crooked growth. The
Lombard has proved a successful stock for top working the Domes-
tica varieties.

PEDIGREED STOCKS

Incidentally, it is interesting to add a statement made by Hedrick,
who opposes the idea that pedigree stock is superior to ordinary

*Hedrick, U. P. The Plums of New York.

118 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

stock. Regarding Plums he writes: “Buds in propagating are
usually taken from nursery stock, a practice of decades, and there
is no wearing out of varieties. Old varieties have lost none of the
characters accredited. to them a century, or several centuries, ago
by pomological writers. Nor does it seem to matter, in respect to
trueness to type, whether the buds be taken from a vigorous, young
stripling, a mature tree in the hey-day of life, or some struggling,
lichen-covered ancient—all alike reproduce the variety. The
hypothesis that fruit trees degenerate or, on the other hand, that
they may be improved by bud-selection; finds no substantiation
in this fruit.”’

Certain other authorities and, especially, nurserymen, like to
believe that a good tree bearing good fruit yields buds and cions
superior to those taken from an ordinary specimen tree. The
reader must not take this statement to mean that cions of Bartlett
Pears would not be superior to cions from a seedling or inferior
variety. But Hedrick feels that cions from one especially superior
tree would not give better results than from a less attractive appear-
ing tree, or from young plants in the nursery row. Hedrick has
an orchard of Rome Beauty Apples all propagated from cions from
the same one tree. There is as much variation in this orchard
as one would find in any orchard of one variety of fruit. Environ-
ment governs the yield, in this case, not the heredity.

It might be added that the expression “pedigreed stock’” means
to some nurserymen that they guarantee their stock true to name,
and that it has been propagated from bearing trees and does not
carry with it the idea of propagation from exceptional trees.

CHAPTER VI

A FEW COMMERCIAL FLORISTS’
PLANTS

Carnations — Chrysanthemums — Ferns — Life History — Collecting
Spores — Soil for Sowing — Sowing — Getting New Varieties —
Division — Runners — Bulblets — Tip Layers — Tubers — Top
Layers — Orchids — Division and Cuttings — Seed — Poinsettia —
Roses — Seed — Hardwood Cuttings — Softwood Cuttings of Out-

» door Sorts —Indoor Cuttings of Commercial Roses — Summer
Cuttings — Grafting and Budding — Rose Stocks — Manetti —
Canina — Carolina — Multiflora — Setigera — Budding Roses —
Grafting to Increase Yield — Grafting Case — Preparation for
Grafting — Grafting Operations — Rapid Method of Increasing
New Varieties — Trenching Method — Root Cuttings — Layers —
Violet — Improving Violet Crop.

CARNATION CUTTINGS

ARGE Carnation growers reserve a certain number of plants,
which are not allowed to produce blooms, for it is from such
plants as this that the best cuttings are obtained. The cuttings
should be three to four inches long and are best removed from the
plants by giving them a downward pull. Such a cutting will have
several ‘‘hairs,” or fibro-vascular bundles, at its base. Except for
removing these hairs the cuttings are untrimmed, unless too long,
for, according to the best modern practice, the cutting should have
as little cut surface as possible. Cuttings if taken from high up on
the flowering stems are thought to give weak-stemmed plants, and
if taken from the shaded bases of the plants the resulting plants
are apt to be narrow-leaved and weak.
They should be rooted in a temperature of from 50 degrees to
55 degrees overhead, and 60 degrees to 65 degrees in the sand.
Too high a temperature weakens the cuttings, and when rooted at
40 degrees it takes a week longer to root. It usually requires
10 days to callus and from 18 to 21 days to root. The cuttings
should be inserted very shallow in the sand for best rooting. When
rooted, pot in 2-inch pots and keep them close for several days,
shading them and syringing carefully.
119

120 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

CHRYSANTHEMUM PROPAGATION

Chrysanthemum cuttings (see figs. 17A and 17B) may be rooted
at a temperature of 40 degrees or up to 80 degrees, but 55 degrees
is the proper one. If a bottom heat of from 5 degrees to 10 degrees
can be supplied they will root a little more quickly. The cuttings
are taken any time between February and July, though April is
the ideal month. The earlier they are taken the more shifts the
plants will require in order that they shall not become woody.
Late propagation gives dwarf plants. The cuttings are treated as
softwood cuttings and should be potted as soon as roots start. ‘The
plants may be set deeply in the pots in order that they may not
appear spindling. Use little or no manure at this time.

CHRYSANTHEMUM STOCK PLANTS

After flowering, the blooming stems are cut down and the
plants are shifted to an out-of-the-way bench, planted closer to-
gether where they may be kept cool (40 degrees), but in good con-
dition until cuttings are required. At the beginning of March
more heat and moisture should be supplied.

FERN PROPAGATION

Life history. Ferns bear spores; the flowering plants produce
seeds. Fern spores are not embryo plants but are single cells.
When they are placed in a favorable soil for growth, they produce
small, heart-shaped plants, usually about the size of the end of a
lead pencil. This young Fern stage is known as the prothallus
(see fig. 83°). Male and female organs are produced on _ this
prothallus.

When the male elements are ripe, they lash themselves about, for
they possess tiny tails, and enter the female portions of the plant.
As soon as the union has taken place, a tiny frond is produced which
gradually develops roots and other fronds until it matures.

Upon maturing, a definite portion of the frond develops spore-
bearing apparatus. These are known as spore cases or sporangia
(see figs. 844 and 847). They become miniature sling-shots when
ripe, and bursting, scatter the spores a great distance. Most
Ferns have these sporangia associated together: in small clumps,
called sori, and appear as brown spots on the fronds (see figs.
83!, 837, 84°, 844, 84° and 84°). Certain fronds only, in the
Staghorn Fern, bear these sori in huge patches. These fronds
differ in form from the sterile fronds.

A FEW COMMERCIAL FLORISTS’ PLANTS 121

Fig. 83. Ferns. 1, A Fern plant bearing a mature and an unfolding frond (c). Each
division of the frond (or leaf) is known as a pinna (plural, pinne) (P). The pinne
are covered with dot-like masses, or spore cases (sp). The underground stem of a Fern
is known as a rhizome or root-stock (R). 2, A portion of a frond of Osmunda regalis,
the Royal Fern; in this case certain pinne are much reduced in size (sp.) and are the
only ones which bear the spores. 3, A Fern prothallus. ‘This is the sexual stage and
produces the male and female organs which in uniting give rise to the growth of the
mature forms. This prothallus has started to produce a frond (See pages 120-123)

In the Osmunda regalis, or Royal Fern, the tips of the frond
are so changed as to be devoted alone to spore bearing (see fig.
83”). Certain of the Adiantums, or Maidenhair Ferns, and many
of the Boston Fern sports have transformed their fronds to such
an extent that no spore areas are found.

FERN PROPAGATION BY SPORES

Collecting. As soon as the Fern fronds are seen to be maturing
their spores, the whole frond should be picked and placed in a
paper bag to catch the powdery spores. The ripening can best be

122 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

Fig. 84. Ferns. 1, A microscopic view of a spore case before it has burst. 2, The

spore case has ripened and is scattering its spores. 3, The spore aie:s of Adiantum.

Note thatthe tips of the pinne are folded back and it is under the margins that the

spore cases are produced. 4, The spore cases form huge clusters in Polypodium. 5,

In Dryopteris the spore cases are kidney shaped. 6, Each pinne at the tips of certain

fronds of Pteris has the edged rolled back; under these the spore cases are borne
(See page 120) :

ascertained by the use of a hand-lens. They should remain in
the bag for several weeks before sowing.

SOIL FOR SOWING FERN SPORES

The proper soil for sowing spores is one composed of leaf mold,
sand and well decayed sod loam. The sand will furnish good
drainage. The soil must be carefully sifted through a fine sieve,
and should be sterilized by pouring boiling water through it, or by
baking it.

SOWING FERN SPORES

The pots used should be thoroughly sterilized by burning.
When large quantities of Ferns are grown the spores are sown
in flats or shallow boxes, although usually seed pans will be large
enough. Plenty of drainage of broken flower pots, is always placed

A FEW COMMERCIAL FLORISTS’ PLANTS 123

in the bottom of the flats. The soil is now carefully placed in the
flat and slightly pressed to a perfect level. When the surface is
mot absolutely level the lower portions of the flat will become
damp and sour. Water the soil now, by a fine rose spray, or sub-
merge the flat in water so that there will be sub-irrigation. Scatter
‘the spores evenly over the surface after the soil has lost its first
appearance of wetness, and cover with a pane of glass and a news-
paper. When the spores have germinated the glass should be
raised to give ventilation. Gradually more air should be given
until finally the glass may be removed.

When the Ferns have grown several leaves they should be
‘transplanted on the point of a knife into flats, using a soil con-
sisting of a mixture of leaf mold and sand.

GETTING NEW VARIETIES OF FERNS

“Tt is when the Ferns have grown to resemble a small round leaf
that they have reached the prothallus stage, or the sexual period
(see fig. 83°). They will now hybridize. If hybrids are not
‘wanted, keep the various flats away from each other, otherwise a
mixed lot of stock is the result. Ferns do not mix when in the
large, frond-bearing stage. It is not the spores of the fronds which
do the crossing.

When hybridization is preferred sow the various sorts of spores
together, so that when they grow into the sexual stage they may
cross one with another.

FERN PROPAGATION BY DIVISION

Many of the Ferns produce. prominent rhizomes which may be
<ut into small pieces and_ placed in the propagating bench,
with a little bottom heat, to root. - When rooted they should be
potted into small pots, using a loose soil. A decayed sod loam
and leaf mold will be best. A few of the Ferns so propagated are:
Davallia, the Rabbit’s Foot Fern; Dicksonia; Lygodium, the Climb-
ing Fern; Nephrolepis, the Boston Fern allies; Osmunda;) Phle-
bodium; Polypodium, and Niphobolus, also called Cyclophorus.

Adiantums, especially Farleyense and Croweanum, which pro-
duce no spores, are frequently propagated by division; the plants
are removed from the pots and the mass of rhizomes is broken
apart even down to one or two eyes. The small pieces are placed
in sphagnum moss at a temperature of 65 degrees in a confined
atmosphere to produce roots. Later they are potted into thumb

124 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

pots. The large plants may merely be cut in two or three clumps,
but the method mentioned will give a great increase of stock which
will soon attain good size.

FERN PROPAGATION BY RUNNERS

One of the commonest methods of propagating the Boston
Fern allies is by runners. Long string-like growths take place on all
sides of the main crown. Boston Ferns intended for sale may be
placed in the empty greenhouse benches early in Summer. With
a little care the Ferns will be surrounded by young plants which
grow quickly. In August many of these plants may be potted for
Autumn sales.

In the propagating of the numerous sports of the Boston Fern,
should a new one appear, watch the rhizome carefully at the spot

Fig. '85. Asplenium. Certain of the fronds may be noted in the cut which show the
development of small plantlets on the fronds (See page 125)

A FEW COMMERCIAL FLORISTS’ PLANTS 125

where the sport shows, and if a runner starts it will often carry
the characteristics of the frond above it, othetwise the rhizome
may be divided.

PROPAGATION BY BULBLETS OR PLANTLETS ON
FERN FRONDS

It is interesting to note how some Ferns produce, upon their
fronds, small bulblets which even start to grow while attached to
the parent leaf (see fig. 85). The fronds of such Ferns should be
placed flat on the sand, or in a flat of leaf mold, so that the growth
from the bulblets may be encouraged.

Asplenium bulbiferum, Gymnogramma, Cystopteris bulbiferum and
Polystichum angulare var. prolifera produce bulblets. Pteris
(Doryopteris) palmata produces little plantlets at the base of the
frond.

FERN PROPAGATION BY TIP LAYERS

In propagating Camptosorus rhizophyllus, the Walking Fern;
Asplenium ebonoides and pinnatifidum; Adiantum caudatum and
Edgworthi, the tips of the fronds should be pegged down to the soil,
where they take root readily.

FERN PROPAGATION BY TUBERS

Nephrolepis exaltata var. tuberosa produces tubers beneath the
soil which may be used to increase the plants.

FERN PROPAGATION BY TOP LAYERS

The tree Ferns, such as Alsophila and Cyathea, may be propa-
gated by Chinese layers as described on page 78 (see fig. 47).

ORCHIDS

Although most Orchids are not propagated, but are collected
from the wild, they may be increased by division, cuttings and seeds.
All Orchids are propagated at the beginning of their growing
seasons.

126 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

ORCHIDS FROM DIVISION AND CUTTINGS

The rarer sorts bearing pseudo-bulbs, such as Cattleya, Odonto-
glossum, Celogyne, may be propagated by division; the rhizome is
cut partially through. Two or three pseudo-bulbs are best left
beyond the growing point. The cut will cause the forcing of an
adventitious bud upon the older wood. The old portion is then
removed and potted separately. With Calanthe Veitchii the old
bulbs may be removed when potting in Spring, and placed in pans.
of sphagnum moss until they start to grow, when they may be potted.

Dendrobium canes may be cut into four to five-inch lengths or
the whole cane may be laid on wet sphagnum. New growths will
often start from the eyes. Aerides and Vanda are propagated by
cuttings of the upper portion of the stem, which is about a foot long
and supplied with roots. The old stems will usually produce shoots.
readily. Cypripedium plants are best divided between old growths.
and potted separately, leaving an older growth with each lead.
Allow abundant moisture in starting. Masdevallia and _ allied
genera are propagated like Cypripedium.

ORCHIDS FROM SEED

The seeds of Orchids are very fine and dust-like. Some pods:
contain over 500,000 seeds. Great care is necessary for growing”
them successfully Several years ago it was discovered that the
tiny seedlings only grow when a certain fungus is present. ‘This.
fungus is found in the pots or baskets of most Orchids, so that it is
not difficult to obtain, and if a plant is kept in the seedling frame,
the fungus usually spreads to the seedlings.* It takes patience
to grow Orchids from seed because few of them bloom in less than
five years; it may even require ten years. John E. Lagery, a suc-
cessful Orchid specialist, describes the sowing of Cattleya seeds as
follows:

“Cattleyas, like most other Orchids, are unable to fertilize
themselves, and hence the fertilization must be accomplished by
insects. The seed pods should be left on the plants until well
ripened and when the pods show signs of splitting open, a string or
piece of raffia should be tied around them to prevent water from
getting inside. Leave the pods on the plants until they begin to:
crack open, when they should be removed from the plant, placed
in a paper bag and stored in a dry place to prevent loss of seed.
until ready for sowing.

* Refer to Stand. Cyclop. of Hort. under Orchids for full account of seedlings.
7 Lager, John E. The Seeding of Cattleyas. Florists’ Exchange, Nov. 25, 1916, p. 1226.

A FEW COMMERCIAL FLORISTS’ PLANTS 127

Fig. 86. Rhizome of Cattleya.

Each year the Cattelya sends up a food-storage stem,

or pseudo-bulb, the growth arising from the scales at the base of the parent stem.

The leaves have fallen from the
the stem at the

stem at the right; the center stem may bloom, and
left is ready to produce leaf growth

128 COMMERCIAL : PLANT PROPAGATION

One way of sowing the seed is to sow on the surface of the com-
post of the plants. Personally, from observations taken at several
places where Orchids are raised from seed successfully, I believe it
is better to use muslin or calico; that is, take a piece of this material
and place in it a ball of sphagnum and press the whole into, say a
31% inch or 4 inch pot, in such a way that the highest part is in the
center of the pot, sloping gradually toward the edges, and pressed
in firmly. After this is done water thoroughly and allow to dry,
after which the seed may be distributed over the surface of the
2oods.

If a propagating case is available it may be used if the tempera-
ture does not exceed 75 degrees; otherwise place a piece of glass over
the pot, put the pot on an inverted pot, the latter in a saucer of
water to prevent insects from attacking the seed. Watering should
at first be done only by immersing the pot up to within an inch of
the rim, as any overhead watering would wash away the seed.
Later on spraying with a very fine sprayer will be all right. Air
must also be admitted carefully. After germination the little
seedlings should not be allowed to get dry. When germination has
taken place it may be noted by the seed’s taking on a green appear-
ance, after which they develop into green bodies showing a growing
point; then roots appear.

The tiny plants are now ready to be pricked off into pots,
several in a pot. These should be prepared carefully, with ample
drainage of broken pots and charcoal, over which good Osmunda
fibre should be placed, the top finished off with the same material
mixed with a sprinkling of live sphagnum and cut up finely. Insert
the little plants in holes a quarter of an inch apart and spray the
whole with a fine sprayer to settle the plants in position. Great
care should now be exercised to prevent the plants from damping-olf,
through excessive moisture or too close an atmosphere. A con-
stant, genial moisture and the admittance of air in moderation; in
short, a constant attention is what is now required. Later on, when
the little plants begin to send forth their leaves, they may be
transferred to small one inch pots, a plant in each.”

POINSETTIAS

The Poinsettia produces an abundance of milky juice; such
plants are more difficult to root than some others. Two sorts of
cuttings may be made of Poinsettias, hardwood and softwood.

In making the dormant wood cuttings the plants, after flower-
ing, are placed under the bench of a warm house and gradually

A FEW COMMERCIAL FLORISTS’ PLANTS 129

allowed to ripen by withholding water. During March the canes are
cut in to four inch lengths, and after the milk has stopped flowing,
the cuttings are washed in warm water and dipped in powdered
charcoal. Place in a moderately dry propagating bench at a
temperature of 65 degrees. As soon as roots have started the
cuttings should be potted in thumb pots.

For making softwood cuttings, the plants are started in April.
Shake the soil from the roots of the old plants and pot in smaller
pots. The storage roots will soon cause the growth of good cuttings.
When several inches long, the cuttings are taken with a heel. They
may be rooted in the sand bench or potted immediately and placed
in a close propagating case. Cuttings may be taken all Spring and
Summer; the earlier cuttings will give the taller plants.

ROSES

Seed. The various botanical species of Roses may be propa-
gated by seed because they breed true. Horticultural varieties must
be propagated by some other method.

Collect the seeds when ripe and pound them from the fruits,
allowing the fruits to ferment; then the mass is washed and the
seeds separated. They are sown immediately or else stratified.
Cover the seed with sand instead of soil. Rosa blanda, R. canina,
R. carolina, R. cinnamomea, R. hispida, R. Hugonis, R. humilis,
R. lutea, R. multiflora, R. nitida, R. pisocarpa, R. rubiginosa, R.
rubrifolia, R. rugosa, R. setigera, R. spinosissima and R. Wichuraiana
are especially grown from seed.

Hardwood cuttings,. Most Briars, Climbers and Polyanthus
may be propagated by hardwood cuttings. The canes should be
cut into 5 inch to 6 inch lengths and buried in sand during Winter
and set out in Spring. (See p. 52.)

Softwood cuttings of outdoor Roses. Pot up such Roses as are
needed for propagation, using one- or two-year-old plants. Store
away in coldframes. About the holidays the plants should be brought
into the houses. When the growth is about to bloom, just when
the buds show color, the flowering stems may be cut into one- or
two-eye cuttings. These cuttings should then be placed in sand
to root. Pot in two inch pots as soon as roots are a half inch long.
The large potted plants will furnish cutting material for the whole
Winter and Spring.

This method is used especially in propagating Teas, Hybrid
Teas, Hybrid Perpetuals, Climbers, Polyanthus, and others not
coming true to seed.

130 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

Fig. 88

Fig. 87. A two-eye Rose cutting. The cut at the base has been made through an
eye. One eye is placed in the sand

Fig. 88. A one-eye Rose cutting. The leaf area has been reduced and the cut at
the base is through an eye

INDOOR CUTTINGS OF COMMERCIAL ROSES

Cuttings of greenhouse Roses are taken from the middle to the
end of January. Most growers prefer to use cuttings which have
been so made that the cut at the base is through an eye, two other
eyes being left on the cutting (see fig. 87). It is, however, admis-
sible to make cuttings with only one eye when stock is scarce, but
the plants do not develop so rapidly (see fig. 88). Many growers

A FEW COMMERCIAL FLORISTS’ PLANTS 131

in cutting the crop for sale allow longer stubs than necessary; these
stubs are later removed for propagating wood.

Blind wood, or non-flowering wood, is produced on many plants
which seems to be just as good for use in propagation as the flower-
ing wood.

The best temperature for rooting Roses is 55 degrees for the
overhead and 60 degrees for the sand. Care should be taken in
watering so that too cold water is not used because black spot is apt
to result.

Roses root in about 30 days, depending upon the variety and
the temperatures. When the roots are about a half inch long the
cuttings are potted. The deeper 214-inch Rose pot is preferred to
the standard pot. A little manure may be used for the first potting
soil.

Summer Cuttings. Cuttings may be taken from plants grown
indoors and are made during late Spring, Summer or early Autumn
and placed in warm beds until rooted, when they are potted and
grown to proper size under glass. They are hardened off and go
through the Winter in dormant or semi-dormant condition.
The Teas and Hybrid Teas should not be allowed to freeze or be-
come perfectly dried out. ““The claim made for it is that all un-
naturalness of forcing out of growing season is eliminated, both
in production of wood and growth of plant’’.* Many varieties
as for example, Frau Karl Druschki, are easy to root by this
method, although difficult when cuttings are taken in Winter.

GRAFTING AND BUDDING ROSES

Roses are often grafted because some of the varieties are
difficult to root from cuttings. By graftage, other varieties
are improved in growth, yield of bloom, and earliness. The best
stocks are perpetually active, and the plants, being furnished with
a good root system, are caused to bloom at a younger age.

ROSE STOCKS

In considering the stock for the Rose one more desired char-
acteristic should be added to those given on page 88; the stock for
greenhouse Roses should be perpetual growing.

*Good, John M. Springfield Roses. American Rose Annual, 1917, 2d ed., p..51.

132 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

MANETTI STOCK

The Manetti is a form of the China Rose. It is obtained from
France and Scotland, but many do not like the French-grown
Manetti because it is not as well graded as Scotch, although
French is cheaper. The Manetti is not an ideal stock, for although
it is perpetual growing, vigorous, and responds to fertilizer readily,
it suckers badly.

CANINA STOCK

The Canina stock is used in England, although it is not good
here. Many of our garden Roses are imported and are often
budded on Rosa canina; but they do not succeed because they
have a tendency to stand still in December to February.

Standard or tree Roses are budded upon Canina. Seedling
Canina have a deep root system, making them less liable to drought
injury

Ezon Kempenaar, before the Newport Horticultural Society,
February 8, 1916, described the method of growing R. canina stock
from seed:

“The ripe seed pods are collected in September; those from strong
shoots are best.

Two weeks after gathering the pods are placed in a barrel and
stirred about with a stout stick until all broken up; water is added
which brings the refuse and infertile seeds to the surface, which is
skimmed off, leaving only the fertile seeds which are taken and
thoroughly incorporated with sand and are placed in boxes, which
are then buried in the open ground about 10 inches below the
surface, where they remain until Spring. They are then sown in
beds just as soon as the ground is workable. About May 1 the
seedlings will begin to make their appearance, and as soon as large
enough are transplanted in rows from 4 inches to 5 inches apart,
and the following Spring are planted out in nursery rows 18 inches
apart and 6 inches between the plants; at transplanting the tops are
cut back, leaving only three or four eyes.”

CAROLINA STOCK

The Carolina Rose is a native and is adapted for low, damp
ground and for ordinary conditions it suffers from drought, making
it useless under outdoor conditions because of our hot and dry
Summers. It is not very useful under glass because it has a
period of rest.

MULTIFLORA STOCK

R. multiflora makes an excellent stock, for it is hardy, vigorous,

A FEW COMMERCIAL FLORISTS’ PLANTS 133

and does not sprout from the roots. It is, however, difficult to
obtain and the roots are subject to attacks of the nematode, or eel
worm. It is propagated by hardwood cuttings.

SETIGERA STOCK

Writing of R. setigera, Joseph Meehan says:

“Some of the Southern nurserymen already use it, and find it a
better one than the Manetti in their soil, and it does not sucker.
It is fairly well known here, and those familiar with it know what a
strong, vigorous grower it is. There is no question of its hardiness
at all, being a northern Rose; it propagates readily from cuttings
and seeds; and if one had a stock of it, unsold for grafting or budding
purposes, it is still salable for planting for its beauty. Those not
familiar with it will have an idea of its character when told it is the
parent of the old climbing Rose, Prairie Queen.”’

BUDDING ROSES

Manetti stocks growing in the field are shield budded in July,
when an active eye is used, or in August, using a dormant eye.

Fig. 89. Standard Roses. The various Hybrid Teas, Teas and Hybrid Perpetuals
are successfully budded or grafted upon upright stocks of R. canina, R. rugosa and
other shrubby sorts. Such plants are called Standard Roses

134 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

The early buds will start growth immediately. It will be Spring
before the August bud grows. (See page 99.)

Many Hybrid Teas, Hybrid Perpetuals, and Tea Roses for
outdoor use are budded rather then grafted.

GRAFTING TO INCREASE YIELD

If more growers realized the increase in yield, due to grafting,
more would attempt to graft their own Roses. Alexander Mont-
gomery, Jr.,* writes: “It seems to be the general opinion, among
those who had never grown grafted stock, that the superiority over
own-root is chiefly during the early Autumn months. In order
to dispel any such notion, I shall give the figures of the cut by
months from a house of own-root Roses, and also from the same
house planted with grafts. While these figures do not take into
consideration the quality of the flowers, still, assuming that the
grades are at least equal, (and I believe it is generally admitted
that they are,) they present evidence which ought to satisfy the most

skeptical.
Month Own Root Grafted

, Aetna eet, doc ta tenes ee ee ae 6,899 8,653
DBEPLCMIBEL? << SHAG coast ae eee 11;317 20,950
Winkober. 4020s 2 Pee aes ela eee 11,614 9,325 ,
INowmember.. sorb 615 ton eee 10,373 16,558
December: 7s oases oR eee 5,829 8,503
Vamanrnys <6... oe eero an ie Bebe nee Toe 10,653
Webruary..3i: oP ane eye oe eee 4,958 6,775
MWiarchie. -6 a oP ee dae 2 eee 7,634 9,997
Attn: 5 Sukh see bore hess ine oo oa 10,009 13,602
ViSW ako se ore CRE Cree ho ee 13,834 20,813
Deane se sn Parent eds hee aes 12,991 16,624

RORALS vs. son Seen iae s Bian eee ae ee 102,735 142,453

This is an interesting record for several reasons. It shows that
the same bench space produced forty per cent more flowers on
grafted than on own-root plants, a real money difference. The
increase is well distributed through the season, the month of
December showing an increase of fifty per cent, as compared with
the own-root stock.”

Some growers believe that Mrs. George Shawyer should not
be grafted because the Manetti does not seem to push it.

GRAFTING CASE

The smaller growers who have refrained from going to the trouble
of grafting, could easily build a small frame, which will be handy

*Montgomery, Alexander, Jr., History and Culture of Grafted Roses for Forcing.

A FEW COMMERCIAL FLORISTS’ PLANTS 135

for many other uses. Most Rose grafting cases are built like a
small even-span greenhouse over a greenhouse bench.

E. G. Hill has built his grafting cases so that the top is flat
and merely covered by panes of overlapping glass. The case should
be 12 to 15 inches high and divided into sections, each large enough
for one day’s grafting.

A simple case may be made by building up the sides of a bench
and covering with a hotbed sash hinged to the side of the bench.
Such cases should be tight and perfectly controlled. A uniform
temperature of 80 degrees is maintained. A layer of coal ashes
which is kept moist will supply the humidity for the early growth of
the grafts.

Fig. 90. Rose stock cut ready for grafting From Holmes Com. Rose Culture, p. 36
Fig. 91. Rose cion for grafting. From Holmes Com. Rose Culture, p. 33
(See page 136)

PREPARATION FOR GRAFTING

The Manetti is received in December and potted in 21% inch
pots. Pot firmly in a good Rose soil and place in a house with a
temperature of 50 degrees. Some growers place the pots under
the Carnation benches. They are syringed twice a day to soften
the wood, causing them to start to grow more uniformly. They
should be examined at regular intervals to find when the white roots
have well started. Then they are grafted. Cions should be
selected which are of the same sort as the wood used for cuttings.

136 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

GRAFTING OPERATIONS

The splice graft (see figs. 61, 90 and 91) is used, by which method
the stocks are cut off an inch from the soil with a long slanting cut
and the cion is prepared with a similar oblique cut. The cion is
then placed on the stub of the stock with cambium layers in con-
tact on one side, at least, and firmly tied with raffia.

As soon as the plants are ready they are placed in the grafting
case; the sashes are tightly closed and left so for about five days
unless too much moisture has accumulated; then open the sash the
thickness of a pot label. At the end of this time the case is opened
gradually for five or ten minutes a day; a little longer time for
ventilation being allowed each day.

It will be three weeks before the grafts are sufficiently knitted
to permit their being taken from the frames. They may be placed
on a shallow bench where air is circulating and where syringing
may be done from both sides.

RAPID PROPAGATION OF NEW VARIETIES

The following notes are from Mr. G. W. Oliver:

“When, as a result of crossing two varieties, a good seedling is
secured and tested, the next problem to present itself is to get up
a large stock in as short a period as possible so that it can be put
on the market. There are various ways to accomplish this result,
but there is only one way to get the maximum number of plants
so that cuttings can be rooted for distribution. What is needed is
a very quick vegetating stock. The Manetti is too slow for this
purpose and it cannot very well be used in Winter. There is a
variety introduced by the office of Seed and Plant Introduction
(No. 22,449, United States Department of Agriculture), which is
better for this work than the Manetti and others. This plant is a
rampant grower. The bud graft takes quickly on the bases of
young stock plants, and when the roots are in good growing condi-
tion fine unions are the result. In a few weeks we get growths a
foot or more in length. The growing point is then nipped out and
the wood firms up quickly, so that bud wood can be secured for
further propagation. ‘To depend upon cuttings alone for increasing
a new variety is too slow. Bud grafting gives much quicker results.
The bud graft* is simply a piece of matured wood with a single bud.
Takea bud stick; remove the leaves and the prickles, if present, from
about one-half inch from the stem. To remove the bud grafts
place the edge of the knife blade about three-sixteenths of an inch

* This is a modification of the side grafte (See p. 93 and fig. 60.)

A FEW COMMERCIAL FLORISTS’ PLANTS 137

below the opposite side of the leaf joint, cut diagonally down and
through the stem about three-quarters of an inch, then turn the bud
stick and remove a small slice diagonally from the base of the bud
graft which, after cutting from the bud stick, is now ready for insert-
ing into the stock. To prepare the incision in the stock for the
reception of the bud graft, simply make a diagonal cut long enough
to receive the bud graft, placing the long side of the cut surface
of the bud graft so that it will unite perfectly with the inner cut
surface of the stock. In a warm house the union will be perfect
in two or three weeks. The top of the stock can then be removed
eradually. As soon as the ripened shoots are ready they, in their
turn, are used in propagating.”

Root cuttings. The fleshy rooted sorts, as R. gallica, especially
the Moss Roses, R. damascena, R. nitida, R. rugosa, and R. blanda,
may be propagated by root cuttings. Cut up the roots in Autumn
andsstore in sand. Plant out in Spring.

Layers. Dr. Mulford,* writes that R. Hugonis is difficult to
grow from cuttings and is therefore grown by layers. Let them
get thoroughly rooted before cutting from parent plant. Mound
layers are best.

For many of the trailing roses, like R. Wichuraiana, continuous.
layers are useful.

Trenching method. A modification of layering is described
by C. D. Beadle,f Superintendent of the Biltmore Estate.
Many of the Briar Roses (like Persian Yellow, Austrian
Copper, Penzance Sweet Briars), Damask Roses (including the
two-color and striped Roses), and many other types are readily
propagated by the trenching process. The plants of the
varieties to be propagated are planted out in nursery rows in
an almost flat position leaning one against another. The plants.
are then almost covered with soil, which soil may be gradually
filled in as the shoots advance in growth. At the close of the first
growing season, the trenched plants are dug and the vertical shoots.
are cut from the horizontal branches at their base. Many of the
shoots will have rooted, but this is not necessary. The shoots will,
however, be covered with “‘root-bark,”’ a tissue differing from the
shoots above the soil. The cuttings, rooted or unrooted, as the
case may be, are planted in nursery rows, or in cutting-beds, and
grown for several seasons.

Seedling inarch. (For discussion of a method of getting seed-
lings to bloom quickly see page 106, also see figs. 77-79.)

* Mulford, F.L. Rosesforthe Home. Farmers’ Bullt. 750, p. 27.
{Beadle, C. D. The Trenching Method of Rose Propagation. American Rose Annual,
1917, 2d ed., p. 51.

138 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

VIOLET PROPAGATION

Rooted cuttings of the Violet taken in February result in good,
clean stock for the next year. They are placed in the sand bench
and treated as softwood cuttings. Violets are, however, most
easily propagated by division, but there is more danger of spreading
disease. By the latter method the plants are divided so that each
cutting will have a few roots and a piece of soft stem and a growing
shoot. Flats are filled with soil in which the cuttings are placed.
They are left for several days in a shady place, usually under a green-
house bench, after which they are placed in frames until the
season warms up, when they are set in the field about 10 inches apart
in the row for singles, and 8 inches apart for the doubles. The
rows for convenient cultivation should be 15 to 18 inches apart.
Constant Summer cultivation results in good plants.

IMPROVING THE VIOLET CROP

The various varieties of Violets seem adapted to certain localities
only, and it is highly advisable for each grower to select the variety,
and strain of that variety, which meets his conditions best. Dr.
Galloway* suggests a method of doing this. The grower should
go over his crop, attempting to find those plants which give the most
flowers, typically colored, long stemmed, and disease resistant.
Suppose one hundred plants are selected, place a stake at the side
of each and tie a large shipping tag to the stake upon which the
daily picking may be written. Some plants may be found to give
50 flowers; another may produce 150 flowers; some will bloom
most in December and January and others in March. Select the
strain which produces the most flowers when they are worth the
most. At the end of the first year eliminate all plants not producing
ninety flowers. Each plant will give ten good cuttings, so that if
fifty plants are selected the first year, five hundred good plants
are assured for the second. Keep the selected plants labeled.
The details of this method can be improved upon by the ingenuity
of the grower.

*Galloway, B. T. Commercial Violet Culture.

CHAPTER VII

HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS ©

In this list of herbaceous perennials are included the commoner sorts

of plants, not woody, which live more than one year.
genera of plants which are hardy in the Northern States.

They are all
The writer

acknowledges the help of Professor David Lumsden in preparing this list.

+ Grown from seed usually not blooming until the second year.
*—Bloom first year from seed, but the perennials are not at their best

until the second year.

a—Some species are annuals which, obviously bloom the first year

from seed.
p—May be propagated by division.
&—Everlasting or Immortelle flowers.
G—Grasses.
*«x—May be propagated by suckers or stolons.
R—May be propagated by root cuttings.
s—May be propagated by stem cuttings.

p Acanthust
pD Achillea*
p Aconitum*
s,p Acorust
s.p Acteat
p Adonis*
Agrostemma
(See Lychnis)
s.p Ajugat
p Altheea (certain
strains*)
A,s,D Alyssum*
s.D Amsonia7
A,D,R Anchusaty
pn Anemone7t
p Anthemis*
p Aquilegiat
p.R Arabis*
s.,pD Arenaria7j
p Armeriat
p Arnica
A.D Artemisia?
c,p Arundo
p.R Asclepiast
p Asperula*

p Asphodelus
s,p Aster*
s,pD Aubrietiat
p Auricula*
p Baptisiat
D Bellis*
R,K,D Bocconia*
Dp Boltoniat
A,D Boragot
s,p Callirhoet
A,D Campanulat
s,p Caryopteris {
s Cassiat
p Catananche*
A,S,D Centaurea ft
p Centranthust{
A,D Cerastium*
s,R Ceratostigma tT
Chelone*
A,S,D Chrysanthe-
mum f
p Cimicifugat
s,D Clematist
p Clintonia
A,D Coreopsis*
R,D Coronillat

G,p Cortaderia
p Corydalis}
A,S,D Delphinium*
A,S,D Dianthus;
R,D Dicentra
pb Dictamnus
Digitalist
R,D Dodecatheon
pd Doronicum*
p Drabat
p Dracoceph-
alumt
p Echinaceat
Dp Echinopst
p Epimedium
p Erigeront
p Eryngium?
s,D Eupatoriumt
pD Funkia
A,B,S,D Gaillardia*
p Galegaj
A,D Galium*
pb Gaurat
p Gentiana{
p Geum7+
G.D Gynerium{
139

140

A,S,R,D Gypsophila*
p Haemadorum
pD Hedysarum}
s.D Heleniumt
A,K,S,D Helianthus*
D Helleborust
pD Hepaticat
Dp Heracleum*
s,D Hesperist
s,D Heucherat
s,D Hyssopusf
A,S,D Iberis*
Dp Inulat
D Iris (California
species must
be from seed)
D Liatrist
A,D Linaria*
A,D Linum*
A,D Lobelia*
s Lotust
A,D Lupinust
A,S,D Lychnis*
s,D Lysimachia
s,p Lythrumt
p Mandragorat
s,D Menispermum

© Acroclinium*

s Ageratum*

s Alonsoa*
Amaranthus*

s Antirrhinum*
Arctotis*
Argemone*
Balsam*
Brachycome*
Browallia*
Cacalia*
Calendula*
Callistephus (China

Aster) *
Celosia*
Cerinthe*
Clarkia*
Cleome*
Collinsia*
Coreopsis
sis)*

(Calliop-

K,S,D Menthat
p Mertensiat
Mesembryan-
themum +
R,S,D Monardat
A,S,D Myosotis*
A,K,S,D CEnotherat
A,D Papaver (Ice-
land) *
p Pentstemonf
R,D Peony
G,A,D Phalarist
s,D Phlomist
A,R,S,D Phlox
s,D Physostegiat
p Platycodon*
Plumbago (see
Ceratostigma)
R,D Podophyllumj{
D Polemonium{
p Polygonatum
R,S,D Polygonum ft
Dp Potentillat
D Primulat
s,D Ranunculus t{

p> Rheum?

Dn

ANNUALS

Cosmos*
Datura*
Diascia*
Dimorphotheca*
Emilia*
Erysimum*
Eschscholtzia*
Gilia*

Godetia*

E Gomphrena*

E Helichrysum*

E Helipterum*

G Hordeum*
Layia*

Madia*

s Mathiola (Stocks) *
Mentzelia*
Mimulus*
Nasturtium *
Nemesia *

COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

R,K Romneyat
A,S,D Rudbeckia7j
A,S,D Salvia*

D Sanguinariaf
S,R,D Saponariat
A,K,D Saxifraga7

A,D Scabiosat

s,D Sedum t

S.D Senecio*

D Sidalceat
A,S,D Silenet

D Silphium+

D Sisyrinchium

s,D Solidago7

D Stachyst

E,A Staticet

R,D StokesiaT

s,p Tanacetum

pv Thalictrumt

R,D Thermopsis{

s,D Tradescantia F

p Trollius

p Valerianat

s,D Verbascum? °

s.,D Veronicay

pb Violas*

S,R,D Yucca}

Nemophila*
Nicotiana*
Nigella*

G Pennisetum*

s Petunia*
Phacelia*

A Poinsettia*
Portulaca*
Reseda (Mignon-

ette) *

E Rhodanthe*
Ricinus*
Salpiglossis*
Sanvitalia*
Schizanthus*
Sweet Peas*
Tagetes (Marigold) *
Torenia*

s Verbena*

E Xeranthemum*
Zinnia*

BULBOUS PLANTS

141

BULBOUS PLANTS AND THEIR PROPAGATION

B—Bulblets
c—Cormels

t—Cuttings
Tu—Tubers and tuberous roots

<o—Corm *—Sometimes grafted to pre-
p—Natural division serve rare or weak va-
o—Offsets rieties
R—Rhizomes which may be TSpring flowering, out of doors
divided t—W inter flowering
s—Seed x—Summer flowering, hardy
Sx—Western species, by seed z—Summer flowering, not
only hardy
Achimenes R,T,z Eremurus D,s,X Lycoris pD,z
Agapanthus p,z Erythronium 0,sx, 7 Milla p,z
Allium s,0,B,{,7 Eucharis 0,z Montbretia (see Tri-
_Alstroemeria s,D.z Freesia 0,S(2-3 yrs.),t tonia)
Amaryllis s,p,0, Fritillaria o, ¢ Moreea Co,D,z
-Amorphophallus 0,s,z Funkia p,r,x Muscari 0,s,T
Anemone s,p. {.7 Galanthus pb, + Negelia o,f
_Anomatheca (see Lap- Galtonia s,p,z Narcissus D,{,7 (see p.
eyrousia) Geissorhiza Co,D 71)
Antholyza p,z Gesneria s.{ Narthecium r,x
Apilos Tu,z Gladiolus (see pp. 73- Nemastylis p,z
_Arisema Co, or Tu,S,T 74), C,C,S,z Nerine 0,z
Arum 0,s,{ Gloriosa pb of Tu,0,z Ornithogalum o,t

Babiana c,s,t
Begonia, tuberous s,
TusZ
‘Bessera 0,z
Bloomeria Co,s,7
Boussingaultia B, z
Brodiza s, o,f
Bulbocodium p,7{
‘Caladium tTu,z
‘Calochortus Co,p,t
Camassia s,D,X
Canna R,z
Chionodoxa 0, s,t
‘Clintonia p,7
‘Clivia pD,z
Colchicum p,s,X —
“Convallaria R,7
Cooperia D,z
Crinum p,z
Crocosmia 0,S,z
Crocus D,C,s,7t
Crown Imperial p,+
Dahlia*, s,p,7,Tu (see
p. 75);z
Dracunculus Tu,o,{
Eranthis p, 7

Gloxinia s(see p. 26)
Helleborus R,p, 7
Hyacinth (see p. 66),

Hymenocallis 0,z

Imantophyllum (see
Clivia)

Iris, bulbous p, t,t

Iris, rhizomatous R,S,

Ry
Iris, Californian
species Sx,X,
Ismene (see Hymeno-
callis)
Ixia o,f
Txiolirion p,7
Kniphofia s (a strain
Burpee has de-
veloped) ,p, x
Lachenalia p,s,t{
Lapeyrousia Co,D,X
Leucojum b,0,7X,
Lilium (see pp. 39-71)
B, 1.7
Lily of the Valley r,t

Oxalis p,o,f,z

Pancratium 0,s,z

Polygonatum kR,D,T

Puschkinia p,+

Ranunculus s,p,7

Richardia (see Zante-
deschia)

Scilla o,f, 7

Smilacina R, Tt

Sparaxis p,f

Spireea (Astilbe) p,s,f

Sprekelia p, f,z

Tigridia c,s,z

Trillium r,s, t

Triteleia s,o,7

Tritoma (see Kni-
phofia)

Tritonia p,{,x

Tuberose 0,z

Tulip (see p. 71), f,t

Vallota p,o

Viola (certain species
R),S

Watsonia c,p, f{,z

Zantedeschia p,o,s, f,z

Zephyranthes D,s, f,z

CHAPTER VIII

TREE AND SHRUB LIST

Many of these notes are derived from those made by Mr. Joseple
Meehan in The Florists’ Exchange

ABELIA.
Curtines. Hard and half-ripened wood.
Layers. In greenhouse best.

ABIES. Firs.
SEEDS. Keep dry during Winter, sow in Spring. Many of the seeds
are infertile. ;
GRAFTING: Grafted onseedlings, use veneer graft. Grafting in green-
house in late Summer. Use only upright growing shoots for cions,
others do not make shapely trees.

ABUTILON. Flowering Maple.
SEEDS. Sow in March. Will bloom in Autumn.
Curtines. Hard or soft wood.
GRAFTING. Any strong growing species may be used upon which
to graft the trailing sort, A. Megapotamicum, in order to makeja
standard plant.

Fig. 92. A Maple key

ACER. Maple. Box Elder.

SEEps. Many of the species grow nicely from seed sown as soon a&
ripe.

Currincs. Some species root from hardwood cuttings, A. negundo,
especially.

Layers. A. rufinerve, A. rubrum, A. cappadocicum (colchicum)
var. rubrum, A. platanoides var. Schwedleri, A. platanoides var. globos@
and A. palmatum, are best propagated by cutting down a tree
and encouraging long shoots to grow which are layered. Some-
times it is not necessary to cut down the trees to induce the
growths. It takes some Maples two years to root.

142

TREE AND SHRUB LIST 143

ACER—Continued

GRAFTING AND BuppinG. Varieties are grafted or budded on types>
for example, A. saccharinum var Wieri is budded on its species
A. saccharinum; Schwedler’s Maple, and A. globosa are grafted
or budded on A. platanoides; A. palmatum (polymorphum)
atropurpureum and dissectum grafted on A. polymorphum; A
negundo var. variegata grafted on A. negundo. Two-year-old seed-
lings are best. Graftedin April. Buddedin August. The Japanese
Maples are usually grafted in the greenhouse.

Inarcoinc. Many of the Japanese Maples are inarched on seedlings.
Best done from June to September.

ACTINIDIA. Japan Gooseberry.
SEEDs. Sown in Spring.
Curttincs. Best use green shoots in Summer. Roots form readily,
but buds are tardy to grow.

ADENOCARPUS.
Curtines. Unripe wood in greenhouse.

fESCULUS.. Horsechestnut. Buckeye.

SEEps. Many species grow readily if sown as soon as ripe. AS.
carnea (rubicunda) rarely seeds.

Roor Currines. 4. parviflora is so propagated.

Buppinc. 4. carnea (rubicunda) and A’. hippocastanum var. flore
pleno are budded on 4. hippocastanum in July or veneer grafted
under glass during August upon year-old seedlings.

Diviston. Some of the dwarf sorts are best propagated by division
of the crowns.

AILANTHUS. Tree of Heaven.
SEEDS. Preserve during Winter, sown shallow in Spring.
SUCKERS when roots are injured.
Roor Currines. Propagate from pistillate trees; female trees have
bad odor.

AKEBIA.
Cuttines. Hard wood, or soft wood in Summer.
Layers. Of hard or soft wood.

ALBIZZIA.
SEEDS. Sow seed as soon as ripe.

ALNUS. Alder.

SEEDS. Sow in Spring. Cover lightly. Keep moist.

Cuttines. Ripe wood.

GRAFTING AND Buppinc. Bud or graft varieties on the type. A.
firma is best grafted on A. glutinosa. The Heart-leaved Alder
a 2 age is useful as stock for those sorts to be grown on a

ry soil.

AMELANCHIER. June Berry. Shad Bush.
SEEDS. Sow as soon as ripe.
Cuttines. Hard wood.
Roor Curtines. Bury in sand in cellar during Winter, plant in
Spring horizontally.
BuppING AND GRAFTING. Dwarf sorts grafted on tall stocks.
Crataegus may be used as stock.

144. COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

AMORPHA. False Indigo.
SEEDS. Sow seed as soon as ripe. This is commonest method.
Curtines. Hard wood cuttings. Take in Autumn.

AMPELOPSIS. Boston Ivy. Virginia Creeper. Woodbine.
SEEDS. Sow seeds as soon as ripe or keep in moist sand until Spring.
Curtines. Hard wood or soft wood in Summer.
Layers. Simple layers used.

ANDROMEDA.

SEEDS. Very fine. Sow in pots in Spring, place in frames in mix-
ture of sphagnum, fine loam; cover with glass. Germinate in two
months but grow slowly.

Curtines. Soft wood in Summer.

Layers. Root slowly.

ARALIA.
SEEDS. Good; when they can be obtained.
Roor Curtines. In Spring. About 2 to 3 inches long; set out in
rows or take in Autumn and store in sphagnum moss.
GRAFTING. Some of the exotic sorts require grafting upon strong
growers. Done in greenhouse.

ARBUTUS. Strawberry Tree.
SEEDS. Sown in Autumn or early Spring.
Curtines. Half-ripe in Autumn placed in peaty soil.
GRAFTING AND BuppinG. Budded on seedling stock of the European
species A. Unedo. Veneer graft used.

ASIMINA. Pawpaw. Custard Apple.
SEEDS. Self sow. Or stratify and sow in Spring.
Layers. In Autumn.
SUCKERS when roots are injured.
GRAFTING. A. triloba seedlings are used as stock for the weaker
growers and varieties.

AUCUBA. Gold-dust Tree.
SEEDS. Sown soon after maturity.
Cuttines. Green or half-ripe wood.
Layers. Made of berried branches.
GRAFTING. Varieties are often grafted on the type.

AZALEA.

SEEDS. Sow seed when ripe. Use leaf mold and loam. Best sown
in greenhouse.

Cutrtines. Half-ripe wood. Indoor grown plants root more easily
than outdoor ones. It takes several years for cutting grown plants
to bloom.

GRAFTING. See Rhododendron. Veneer graft used indoors in the
Summer. A. viscosa and A. nudiflora make excellent stocks;
especially the first, which is the stronger grower.

Layers. A. viscosa and A. amena. Simple layers. Spring.

BENZOIN (Lindera). Spice Bush. Wild Allspice.
SEEDS. Sow seeds as soon as ripe, using a peaty soil.
Cutrtines. Green wood, but are difficult to root.

TREE AND SHRUB LIST 145

BERBERIS. Barberry.

SrEEps. Sow seeds as soon as ripe, sowing in a seed bed, covering
bed with leaves during Winter. Keep seedlings in partial shade
at first. Even the Purple-leaved Barberry comes true to seed.

Cuttines. Readily propagated by green cuttings in June. The
hard wood cuttings do not root readily.

GraFtinc. Mr. Dunbar suggests grafting the rarer sorts on the
Purple Barberry; the suckers are thus easily distinguished.

Fig. 93. The seed cone of the Birch

BETULA. Birch. (See fig. 93.) i.

SEEDS. Sow seeds as soon as ripe. If planting is deferred until
Autumn poor germination results.

Layers. The lower growing sorts may be layered.

BuppDING AND GRAFTING. Easily done on seedlings of B. nigra,
the Red Birch: B. lenta, the American Sweet Birch; or B. papyrifera,
the Paper Birch.

B. Youngi pendula, B. pyrainidalis, 5: Paihia are eee chiefly,
but may also be grafted.

BIGNONIA. Trumpet Flower.
Curtines. Evergreen sorts best placed. under bell jars to root.
Layers. Simple layers used.

Roor Curtines In Greennouse. Of larger EME? sorts.

'
it 43.

146 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

BLACKBERRY.
Roor Curtines. Fall; about thickness of lead pencil. Cut into 2
to 3 inch lengths. Store in sand or sawdust until Spring.

BLUEBERRY. (See Vaccinium.)

BUDDLEIA. Summer Lilac. Butterfly Bush.
SEEDS. Sown under glass.
Curtincs. Use either soft or hard wood cuttings.

BUXUS. Box Tree.

SEEDS. Very slowly grown from seeds.

Currines. Made of late growths taken in Winter, root by Spring;
or younger wood may be rooted in Summer. Pot and grow in
frames for a season.

Division. Low growing, but old Box plants may be broken into
small pieces.

CALLICARPA. French Mulberry.
Currines. Soft wood in Spring. Place under bell jar or with
bottom heat. Hard wood cuttings also used.

CALLUNA. Heather.
(See Vaccinium; these shrubs could, no doubt, be propagated by
the methods mentioned.)
Currines. Green wood under glass.

CALOPHACA. Lentil Shrub.
SEEDS. Sow in Spring. Give good ventilation.
GRAFTING. The Laburnum (Cytisus vulgare) is used as stock for
C. wolgarica in order to make graceful trees; the cions are inserted
at height of six feet or more.

CALYCANTHUS. Sweet Shrub.

Calycanthus a ae is much sold as C. floridus, but it does not have
the fragrance. C. floridus rarely seeds; C. levigatus frequently pro-
duces seeds.

Currines. Soft wood in Summer or hard wood in Autumn.

Root Curtines. Bury roots in sand during Winter; toward Spene
cut up into inch lengths and start in greenhouse.

CAMELLIA.
Currincs. Matured young wood with bottom heat. Summer.
GRAFTING. The single flowered stocks from seed or cuttings are best.

CAMPHORA. Camphor.
SEEDS. Seeds ripen in Florida in early Winter and should be sown
when ripe.

CAMPSIS (Tecoma). Trumpet Creeper.
Cuttines. Soft and hard wood.
Roor Curtines. Of the C. radicans.
GRAFTING. The yellow flowered variety is grafted upon the type.
CARAGANA. Siberian Pea Tree.
SeEps. Keep until Spring before sowing, then soak in warm water
48 hours.
GRAFTING. C. arborescens seedlings are used as stocks. When five
to six feet tall the stocks are worked with the weeping or pendulous
sorts.

TREE AND SHRUB LIST 147

CARPINUS. Hornbeam. Blue Beech.
SEEDS. Sow as soon as ripe; seeds germinate very unevenly. Keep
soil moist by covering bed.
Grartinc. Seedlings of C. caroliniana (americana) or C. betulus
are used for the cut-leaved and Oak-leaved sorts.

CARYA. Hickory Nuts.

SEEDs. Sow in November or in early Spring, but keep in moist sand
all Winter.

GRAFTING. The various Caryas are often grafted on the Butternut
or C. cordiformis (amara) which is potted a year previously. Veneer
or splice grafts are used. Baltet mentions using terminal bud
grafting. After wrapping with twine and waxing, the graft is
covered with a bag made of waxed paper. The bag serves to hold
the moisture, preventing evaporation from the cion.

CARYOPTERIS. Blue Spirea.
Seeps. Pick the seeds in Autumn. Sow in February. Pot seedlings.
_Curtines. Pot plants. Bring into heat in February. Take soft
wood cuttings.

CASTANEA. Chestnut. Chinquapin.

SEEDs. C. pumila Chinquapin. Sow seed as soon as ripe. Squirrels
and mice will eat the seed, so protect them. Sow in flats rather
than seed bed, or keep in moist sand during Winter, sowing in
Spring to avoid the pests.

C. americana. Sow seeds as soon as ripe, or if kept till Spring
they must be kept from drying out; if put in glass jar tightly
corked they keep nicely.

GRAFTING. Makes them fruit earlier. The grafting is done in the
Spring, but not until trees are about to burst into leaf. Seedlings are
grafted by whip grafting. No method meets with satisfactory
results. The Chestnut may be propagated on the Oak.

CASTANOPSIS.
SEEDS. Sow seeds as soon as ripe or keep moist until Spring, then sow

CATALPA. Indian Bean.

SEEpDs. Sow seeds in Spring.

Cuttincs. Made in Spring; set in nursery rows immediately.

GRAFTING. C. Bungei (see fig. 94) and C. bignonioides are budded.
or grafted on C. speciosa, late in season, at height of five to
six feet. When grafting use the splice graft. When budded, the
buds are placed on both sides of the stock. Cut bud sticks early
and keep in cool, damp place until June, when bark lifts nicely.

CEANOTHUS. New Jersey Tea.
SEEDS. Seeds sown in Spring.
Cutrtrines. Either ripe or green wood.
Roor Curtines. Made in Autumn, placed in flats of sandy soil to
root.

148 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

CEDRELA.
SEEpDs. Grow readily.
Currines. Hard wood with bottom heat.
Roor Curries. Cut down the growth if the first shoot by this
method is not straight.

CEDRUS. True Cedars.
SEEDS. Sown in Spring.
Grartinc. GC. Deodara, the Deodar Cedar, and C. Libani, the Cedar
of Lebanon, best grafted on seedlings of species or on C. atlantica,
_the Mt. Atlas Cedar. Use veneer graft.

CELTIS. Nettle Tree. Sugar Berry.
SEEDS. Sow when ripe.
Currincs. Hard wood.
Layers. Useful when possible to make.
Grartinc. Graft rarer roots on C. occidentalis.

CEPHALANTHUS. Button Bush.
SEEDS. Grow readily.
Currincs. Hard wood or green wood.

Fic. 94. Catalpa Bungei. This type of tree is obtained by budding Catalpa Bungei
upon C. speciosa (See page 147) este A ile etme is. Milt

TREE AND SHRUB LIST 149

CERCIDIPHYLLUM.

SEEDS. Keep moist until sown.

Curttines. Half-ripened shoots in Summer.

Layers. Cut back old plants early in Spring to force long shoots,
then bend over and root. Mix some sand in soil about the plants
for better rooting. ;

CERCIS. Judas Tree. Red Bud.

SEEDS. C. japonica and C. canadensis. Grow from seeds. Do not
bother with cuttings.

C. japonica is superior to C. canadensis.

Layers. Mound.

CHAMECYPARIS. Cypress. White Cedar.
(See Retinispora, which is similar.)
CHILOPSIS. Desert Willow.
Curtines. Ripe wood under glass.
CHIMONANTHUS. Chinese Allspice.

SEEDS. Self seeds where seeds ripen properly or sow in warm green-
house.

Layers. Spring; they root by Autumn.

CHIONANTHUS. Fringe Tree.

SEEDS. Store seeds in damp sand. Sowin Spring. It will bea year
before seedlings appear. If preferred the seeds may be kept in
flats of moist sand a whole year before sowing.

GRAFTING. May be grafted on the White Ash (Frarinus americana)
or the European Ash (F. ezcelsior). This method is quicker than
from seeds. May graft in greenhouse.

CINNAMOMUM. (See Camphora).

CISTUS. Rock Rose.
SEEDS. Seeds germinate nicely sown in Spring.
- Currines. Spring or late Summer.

CITRUS TRIFOLIATA. Hardy Orange.
SEEDS. May be stored in moist sand and sown in Spring or sown in
greenhouse. For Orange and Lemon see Orange.

CLADRASTIS (Maackia). Yellow Wood.
SEEDS. _ Grow readily from seeds when they can be secured.
Roor Curtines. C. linctoria. Roots dug in early Winter, cut into
three inch lengths, kept in damp moss in cool place and started
in pots indoors or in open ground.

CLEMATIS.

SEEDS. When sown out of doors in Spring germinate in three months.
Better store in sand as soon as ripe. Sown as soon as ripe in
greenhouse place under greenhouse bench.

Currines. C. coccinea and others. Soft wood cuttings in Summer.
Internode cuttings when soft wood root best.

Layers. Continuous layers are useful.

GraFTInG. Large flowering sorts are grafted on C. flammula or
C. viticella.

CLERODENDRON.
SEEDS. Sown when ripe.
Curtines. Nearly ripe wood.
Roor Currines. C. trichotomum. In early Spring from pieces of
root dug from around old plants. Use pieces two inches long.

150 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

CLETHRA. White Alder. Pepperidge.
SEEDS. Sown in pans in sandy or peaty soil.
Curtines. Green wood taken from forced plants in Spring. Use
bottom heat.
Division. Of clumps.

COLUTEA. Bladder Senna.
SEEps. Seed freely and grow readily.
Cuttines. Hard wood.
GRAFTED. Varieties grafted on C. arborescens.

CORNUS. Dogwood.
SEEDS. Do not germinate until second year.
Curtincs. All species with willowy, soft growth are propagated by
hard wood cuttings. Soft wood in Summer also.
BupDING AND GRAFTING. C. florida var. rubra grafted on the type.
Layers. Continuous layers may be made of many of the shrubby
sorts.

CORYLOPSIS.
SEEDS. Sown in Spring.
Cuttines. Half-ripe wood in Summer under glass.
GRAFTING. Perhaps can be grafted on Witch Hazel in Winter in
greenhouse.
Few shoots are normally produced, so that cuttings and layers are
slow.

CORYLUS. Hazelnut. Filbert.

SEEDS. Seeds sown in Autumn or stratified until Spring. Seed grown
stock gives superior root system.

Layers. Purple-leaved sorts are propagated by this method. The
old plants cut down and young shoots growing from this operation
are layered.

GRAFTING AND Bupprne. On the type, seldom done.

COTONEASTER.
SEEDS. Sow in Autumn or stratify.
Cuttines. Evergreen sorts best propagated by cuttings.
pee: Deciduous sorts are grafted on Quince or Hawthorn
stock.

CRATAEGUS. Hawthorn. Thorn Apple.
SEEDS. Seeds gathered in Winter and stratified.
Cuttines. Cuttings of most by either hard or soft wood.
Buppinc. The doubles, especially, are budded on almost any
American species such as C. coccinea or C. crus-galli. Bud in July.
Hawthorns mature early in season.

CRYPTOMERIA. Japan Cedar.
Curtincs. Half-ripe wood under glass in sand.
GraFTinG. Horticultural varieties are grafted.’ _

CUNNINGHAMIA. Chinese Fir.
Curtines. Half-ripe wood in late Summer.

CURRANTS. See Ribes.

TREE AND SHRUB LIST 151

CYDONIA. Quince.

Cuttines. Hard wood in Autumn.

Root Currincs. Autumn or Winter. Cut up roots into pieces
three inches long. Keep in cellar until Spring, then plant in rows
so that top of cuttings is on level with soil.

GraFtinc. Use varieties on types, especially the strong growing
Angers and Fontenay.

CYTISUS. Scotch Broom, also called Genista.
SEEDS. Sown in May.
Currines. Tender shoots planted in enclosed frames or under bell
jar.
GRAFTING. The stronger growing sorts are used as stocks for the
smaller and trailing species.

DAPHNE.
SEEDS. Sow seeds as soon as ripe.
Cuttines. D. cneorum. Half-ripe wood.
Grartrinc. Graft D. cneorum on D. mezereum indoors in Winter.
Use veneer grafts on stock grown in pots. Rarely grafted.

DAVIDIA.
SEEps. Sow in Spring.
BuppeEpb. Possibly can be budded on Cornus florida.

DEUTZIA.
Cuttines. Ripened wood and half-ripe wood taken from plants in
greenhouses, or soft wood in Summer.

DEWBERRIES.
Roor Curtines. See Blackberry.

DIERVILLA. Weigela.
Seeps. Not difficult to raise, but do not come true.
Currines. Half-ripened shoots in Summer. Hard wood cuttings
root readily.

DIMORPHANTHUS. :
SEEDS. Sow seeds as soon as ripe. Gather soon after ripening, for
birds will get them. Sow immediately.
Root Curtines. Dig up the plants in April or May. Cut roots in
three inch lengths and set in rows.

DIOSPYROS. Persimmon.
SEEDs. Sow seeds as soon as ripe or stratify until Spring.
Curtines. Half-ripened wood.
Grartinc. Graft named sorts on D. virginiana, the seedlings, of
which often make plants large enough for budding the first year.

DIRCA. Leather Wood.
SeEps. Ripen early. Sow when ripe.

ELAZEAGNUS. Oleaster. Wild Olive.

SEEDS. Sow seeds as soon as ripe or place in damp soil until October;
then sow out of doors. Certain plants from seed produce no
berries.

Curttines. Hard wood.

GraFtinc. FE. umbellala used as stock for other sorts. E. Simoni
grafted on E. longipes because it blooms so tate that it seeds poorly.

152 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

EUCALYPTUS. Blue Gum.
SEEDS. Very rapid grower. Sown in May or June in California.

EUONYMUS. Burning Bush. Spindle Tree. Wahoo.

Cuttines. FE. japonicus. Grow plants in rich soil for propagating.
nae wood Midsummer. Hard wood cuttings may also be
use

Layers. Evergreen species readily propagated by this method.

Grartine. E. americanus. Graft on E. atropurpureus or E. euro-
pexus to make its display of berries more attractive.

EXOCHORDA. Pearl Bush.
SEEDS. Grow easily. Does not grow readily from cuttings or layers.
Curtines. Soft wood best in Summer.
GRAFTING. Grafted by splice graft on own roots.

FAGUS. Beech.
SEEDS. Mix nuts with sand, keep cool till Spring or sow in Autumn.
GRAFTING. Blood-leaved, Tricolor, Weeping, Cut-leaved, grafted
on seedling of type in early Spring.
InarcH. May be inarched in July by setting pots of seedlings around
a specimen and uniting the branches.
Layers. Weeping varieties are layered.

FICUS. Fig (F. carica.)
Curtines. Hard wood cuttings in Early Spring.

GRAFTING. Only practiced when varieties are poor growers; then
graft on type.

FIG. (See Ficus.)

FORSYTHIA. Golden Bell.
Curtines. Hard wood root very easily. Soft wood in Summer.
GRAFTING. F. suspensa is grafted on F. viridissima to get height.
Layers. Very easily propagated by this method.

FRAXINUS. Ash.
SEEDS. Jenkins writes:

White Ash seed will seldom grow well the first season after planting,
unless subjected to special treatment. There isa theory in regard to
many seeds difficult to propagate, that a gummy, resinous, or oily epi-
dermis covers them, interfering with the action of the air necessary to
produce germination. Excellent results have followed the immersion
of such seed in an alkali, in acetic, or dilute sulphuric acid. Care must
be used, however, that the acid, or alkali, does not destroy the integu-
ments of the seed in addition to this air-proof covering.

GRAFTING. The Green, Golden-weeping, Golden-barked, etc., are
grafted or budded on F. excelsior, the European Ash. Bud in July,
low for all but weeping sorts.

GELSEMIUM. Carolina Jasmine.

A greenhouse vine in the North.
Cuttines. Hard wood in Spring.

GINKGO. Maidenhair Tree.
SEEDS. Sow seed in Spring, but keep moist through the Winter.
GRAFTING. Use male trees only; the female trees produce ill-smelling
fruits. Graft on seedlings. Also budded (see fig. 95).

TREE AND SHRUB LIST

¥
:
=

s

Yah Ar

Fig.95. Budding the Binlco. 1, A bud stick. 2, Ring bud removed. 3, Patch{bud
removed. 4, Stock ready for ring bud. 5. Ring bud applied to stock, showing the
careful wrapping with raffia (See page 152)

GLEDITSIA. Honey Locust.

SEEDS. Scald seeds. Sow in Spring.

GraFtinG. G. triacanthos var. inermis, the Thornless Honey Locust
is grafted on seedlings of the type.

because it is less offensive.

This type is better for cities
GOOSEBERRY. (See Ribes.)
GORDONIA. Loblolly Bay.
CUTTINGS.

Half-ripened wood. Use sand and water method or
place in greenhouse propagating bench.
GRAPE. (See Vitis.)

Scald seeds.
CUTTINGS.

GYMNOCLADUS. Kentucky Coffee Tree.

SEEDS.

Hard wood.

HALESIA. Snowdrop Tree. Silver-Bell.

SEEDS. Sow seeds as soon as ripe, otherwise they take two or three
years to germinate.
CUTTINGS.
Roor Cuttincs.

Green wood from plants grown indoors.
Spring or Autumn.
GRAFTING.

Most of genera of this family may be grafted on
H. tetraptera.

HALIMODENDRON. Silver Leaf.
Layers. Root slowly.
GRAFTING.

Use Caragana arborea as a stock.

154 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

HAMAMELIS. Witch Hazel.
SEEpDs. Joseph Meehan gives the following notes:

The shrub flowers in October and November, and the seed pods form
then, but do not ripen until the next August or September. The pods
are to be gathered then, when one or two by bursting open show the
time hascome forit. These pods are placed ona tray and set in the sun,
that they may openat once. But they must havea sieve set over them,
as when the pods open they eject the seeds at the same time, sometimes
to quite a distance. This is not known to all who attempt to secure the
seeds, and many are disappointed in finding themselves short of the
seeds they expected. Seeds sown in Spring, and covered lightly, usually
grow very well. Because of the shooting character of the seeds this
shrub should be called the Revolver Shrub.

GRAFTING. The Japanese species are grafted on the American, in-
doors.

HIBISCUS. Rose of Sharon. Althea.
SeEps. Not true to color from seeds.
Cuttincs. Hard wood.
Layers. Mound layering is often used.
GRAFTING. Graft named varieties on seedlings.

HIPPOPHZE. Sea Buckthorn.
SEEDS. Sow seeds as soon as ripe. Keep plants until they flower
to determine sex.
CutTrines. Hard wood does not root well.
Layers. Best method. Be sure to propagate both male and female
plants,

HOVENIA.
SEEDS. Grows readily from seeds.
Cuttines. Half-ripe wood in early Summer.
Layers. Late Spring.

HUCKLEBERRY. (See Vaccinium.)

HYDRANGEA.

SEEps. Many varieties seed freely.

Curtincs. Hard wood cuttings root readily in Spring. Green wood
cuttings in Summer under glass. The harder wooded sorts are best
propagated by green wood cuttings. Climbing sorts are difficult
to root.

Layers. Cut down the bush the previous season to force the pro-
duction of many shoots for layering.

HYPERICUM. St. John’s Wort.
SEEDS. Seed is very fine; sow carefully.
Curtines. Green wood cuttings in September.
Diviston oF Piants. Hardy species.
IDESIA. Japan Cherry.
SEEDS. Japanese seedsmen offer seeds.
Curtines. Soft wood cuttings.
Roor Currines. Make in Autumn, plant in Spring.

ILEX. Holly. .
SEEDS. Propagate plants of both sexes. Joseph Meehan writes:

The commoner sorts are propagated by seeds. As there will be an
abundance of seed in the florists’ stores in a short time with the advent

TREE AND SHRUB LIST 155

of Christmas, a supply should be collected by those who wish to sow
them. If both the native one of the North, Jlex opaca, and the English
species, /. aquifolium, there are usually a lot of berries in the boxes in
which the supplies reach the florists’ stores.

Holly seeds do not germinate under a year or more. The way to
proceed with the seeds is to mix them with sand in a box as soon as they
are ripe or in early Winter. The box may be kept in a shed or building
through the Winter; when Spring comes the mass should be washed
out that the seeds be freed of pulp, as if allowed to remain as they
were, the pulp is apt to cause fungus to form, to the detriment of the
seeds. After the seeds are cleaned they are to receive another mixture
of fresh clean sand and again be placed in a box, there to remain until
Autumn, when they should be sown. The seedlings may be expected
in late Spring.

It is better to treat the seeds as recommended than to sow them as
soon as ripe as some do. Such sowings render a bed useless a whole
season, and, worse, it requires weeding and care, which preserving in
a box for a season obviates.

Cuttines. Deciduous sorts propagated by hard wood cuttings,
especially J. crenata.

Layers. Cut down plants to force shoots; then make little upward
cuts in stems and insert a pebble to keep the cut open. Heap sand
around the plants, cover the shoots all but their tips. When
layered in Spring they root by Autumn, but they should be allowed
to remain for two Summers.

Buppine. Budded in Spring from starting buds; or in Autumn from
dormant ones. This method is used in order to insure having a
plant which will produce berries abundantly. J. opaca, the Ameri-
can Holly, is an excellent stock, but the seedlings of J. aquifolium
being easier to obtain, the latter species is also used.

GRAFTING. Veneer grafting used in August under glass. Select
short shoots of branches producing berries for use as cions.

UNDIGOFERA. Indigo Plant.

CutTtines. Green wood.

HTEA. Willow Shrub.

SEEDS. Can be grown from seed.
Curtrines. Hard wood.

JSASMINUM. Jasmine. Jessamine.

Currines. Nearly mature wood. Layers and Suckers. »

JUGLANS. Walnuts and Butternut. (See fig. 96.)

Seeps. Most of the Walnuts should be treated much as Joseph
Meehan advises for the English Walnut, Juglans regia:

The nuts of the English Walnut require treatment different from
that accorded many other kinds of nuts. It won’t do in the North to
sow them in Autumn; asa rule they rot when so treated. They should
be kept indoors, in a rather cool place, mixed with slightly damp
sand, and then sown outdoors in Spring, when every one may be expected
to grow. Seedlings from imported nuts, and even those from home
grown trees, are apt to lose their terminal buds when young. It is,
therefore, wise to give them some protection, such as forest leaves
provide, in an endeavor to preserve them. Another good plan is to
Yet seedlings remain in their seed beds for two or three years before
transplanting them; one protects the other in this way; they are more

PLANT PROPAGATION

Fig. 96. Germination of an English Walnut

JU GLANS—Continued

easily preserved in Winter, and the close growth in the beds causes them
to make height instead of branches, all in the interest of the grower.

There are many varieties of the English Walnut, the thin shelled, the
early fruiting and a number of others, all differing in their nuts from
the type. These it is not safe to rely on as coming true from seed.
Of a hundred nuts, of any one kind of them, while some might be the
same as the parent, many would not.

GRAFTING AND BuppinG. Juglans cinerea, Butternut, can be grafted
by terminal bud graft. Juglans regia, English Walnut, budded on
Butternut or Black Walnut in Summer, when the sap is flowing
strongly.

JUNIPERUS. Juniper. Red Cedar.

SEEDS. Very hard; should be softened, according to Fuller, by
soaking in strong potash water for several days.

Cuttines. Grow readily from soft unripe cuttings in greenhouse or
mature wood cuttings in frames. (See fig. 24.)

KALMIA. Mountain Laurel.

SEEDS. Sow seeds in Spring in a mixture of sand, peat and loam in
pans or flats and keep in greenhouse or coldframe. ‘Transplant
seedlings early into other flats. Do not put out in open for a year.

Curtines. Most species, except K. latifolia, grow nicely from half-
ripened wood cuttings.

GraFTING. Kalmia latifolia varieties are side grafted on seedlings
in greenhouse.

Most American nurserymen collect plants from the wild.

KERRIA. Corchorus. Globe Flower.
Curtines. Young wood under glass in Summer, also hard wood.

KOELREUTERIA. Varnish Tree. Bladder Pod.
SEEDS. Produced freely. Stratify.

TREE AND SHRUB LIST 157

LAGERSTREMIA. Crape Myrtle.
SeEps. Obtain from the South.
Cutrtrines. Hard wood, except the white varieties. Green cuttings
may be made in the greenhouse.
Root Curtines. Most successful method with the white variety.

LARIX. Larch. Tamarack.
Seeps. Keep dry during Winter. Sow in Spring. Shade seedlings.
GRAFTING. Whip or cleft graft out of doors; veneer graft indoors.
This latter method is best. Use European Larch, L. europea,
mostly.

LAURUS. Sweet Bay. Laurel.
SEEDS. Sow as soon as ripe, then they will germinate in a few weeks.
Curttines. Half-ripe wood placed under glass.

LEDUM. Labrador Tea.
SEEDS. Sow in Spring.

LEMON. (See Orange.)

LESPEDEZA. Bush Clover.
Curtines. L. Sieboldi. Half-ripened shoots in Summer. Top
dies down in Winter.
Layers. L. (Desmodium) bicolor. In Summer. Take up in
Autumn and protect for Winter.

LEUCOTHOE.
SEEDS. Sown in sphagnum smoss and sand; pricked off in flats,
and in early Spring planted out of doors.
Curtines. Half-ripe wood cuttings placed in sand with bottom heat.
Layers. Underground runners.

LIBOCEDRUS. Incense Cedar.
SEEDS. Sow in Spring.
Cuttines. Late Summer in greenhouse, root slowly.
GRAFTING. Graft on Thuya and Chamecyparis.

LIGUSTRUM. Privet.
SEEps. Some may be raised from seed but Regel’s Privet being a
variety of L. Ibota does not come true.
Curtines. Soft wood cuttings in Summer rooted in greenhouse.
The prunings from the hedge may easily be cut into foot lengths
and are easily rooted in the Spring.

LINDERA. (See Benzoin.)

LIQUIDAMBER. Sweet Gum. (See fig. 97.)
SEEDs. Stratify as soon as ripe. May not grow until second year.
Require moist seed bed, therefore, water in the dry Summer.

LIRIODENDRON. Tulip Tree. White Wood.

SEEps. Sown as soon as ripe in Autumn in a light soil with some
leaf mold in it. Young plants make many long succulent roots,
so they should be transplanted for several succeeding Springs.
Usually less than half of the seeds grow.

GRAFTING. Sometimes grafted or budded on seedlings.

158 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

—

= Sie
ae
CARN :

Fig. 97. The seed ball of the Sweet Gum. (See page 157)

LONICERA. Honeysuckle.

SEEDS. Sown in Autumn or stratify.

Currines. Either hard or soft wood. Soft wood rooted under glass-

Layers. Put down compound layers in Autumn or early Spring.
LYCIUM. Matrimony Vine.

SEEDS. Sow seeds as soon as ripe.

Curtincs. Hard wood, one year old. Soft wood in Summer.
MACLURA. (Toxylon) Osage Orange.

SeEps. In Spring soak seed in warm water for forty-eight hours,

then sow.

Currines. Green wood indoors.
MAGNOLIA.

SeEeps. Jenkins writes:

After the red seeds of Magnolia are gathered from the pods, put
them in a tub, or bucket, with enough water to barely cover them.
Stir occasionally. Ina few days the red, pulpy covering will be softened
and may be rubbed from the black seed, or seed proper, in the hands;
or, place the seeds in a coarse sieve and rub the pulp through the
meshes into a running stream. The meshes of the sieve must be
fine enough to retain the black seed. Then mix lime or wood ashes

with the seed to cut the oily matter that appears to interfere with
germination.

TREE AND SHRUB LIST 159
MAGN OLIA—Continued

Joseph Meehan writes:

Sow the seeds in early Spring, keeping them in a moist condition from
the time they are gathered. Some sow the seeds in Autumn, some after
they are gathered, placing a covering of leaves over them for the
Winter. But keeping them in slightly damp soil all Winter and sowing
early in Spring is a sure way; of course, watching the seeds right along
through the Winter to see that everything is right

Layering. The old way of layering is the most solid ofall. This is the
time to cut back almost to the ground the stocks desired for layering pur-
poses. Take some real heavy plants and cut them back to but a few eyes:
above the ground. This will cause the growth of strong, young shoots,
which are just the sort needed for layering. The work should be done
as soon as the shoots are of length enough to permit of it. If put down
early, they will be nicely rooted by Fall, but should not be cut off
from the parent plants before Spring. Old hands at propagating aver
that but little is lost by allowing the layers to remain undisturbed for
two years. In this way, too, the old plants are permitted to havea
year’s rest from layering, strengthening them, as the cutting down
and layering the same plants year after year weakens them. This will
lead propagators to have two sets of plants for layering, working one

" set one year, the other the next, which is much the better plan.

Buppine. Use M. acuminata; the Cucumber Tree, or M. tripetala,
the Umbrella Magnolia, as a stock. For standards the bud is
inserted at height of five to six feet.

GRAFTING. WM. tripetala better because of abundance of fibrous roots
which makes transplanting safer. Performed under glass. Side
cleft grafting is preferred. To increase the size of M. glauca it is.
successfully grafted on some larger growing species.

INARCHING. Successful.

MAHONIA. Oregon Grape.
SEEDS. Grow easily if sown soon after ripening.
Cuttines. Half-ripe wood under glass.

MEDLAR. (See Mespilus.)

MELIA. Pride of India. China Tree.
SEEDs. Rather difficult to raise. Sow seeds as soon as ripe. The-
M. Azedarach var. umbraculiformis breeds true to seed.
Cuttines. Hard wood.

MESPILUS. Medlar.

GRAFTING. Best use Crataegus as stock, but seedling Medlar and
Quince can be used.

MISTLETOE. (See Phoradendron.)

MORUS. Mulberry. (See fig. 98.)

SeEps. Wash and keep cool and dry until Spring; then sow; they
germinate in several weeks. They may be sown in the Autumn.

Cuttines. The Russian type, M. alba, roots easily; the wild one,
M. rubra, and Downing’s Everbearing do not.

GraFtinG. MM. rubra and M. alba make the best stocks for Downing.
Weeping varieties are grafted at height of five or six feet above
the soil. Grafting is practiced in early April. Root grafting in
Winter may also be used.

160 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

Fig. 98. , Teas’ Weeping Mulberry (See page 159)

MYRICA. Wax Myrtle.
SEEDS. Seeds grow slowly. Sow in Spring.
Suckers. Especially M. gale.

NANDINA.
SeEEps. Obtained from California.

NECTARINE.
Same stock and method of treatment as for Peach, page 114.

TREE AND SHRUB LIST 161

NERIUM. Oleander.
Curtines. Hard wood. Soft wood rooted in water easily. Take
cuttings after flowering.
Layers. Chinese layers are successful.

NEVIUSIA. Snow Wreath.
This is a Spirea without petals.
Curtines. Green wood cuttings under glass.

NYSSA. Sour Gum. Tupelo.
SEEps. Autumn collected seed freed of pulp and sown immediately;
or store in damp sand during Winter.
GRAFTING. Weeping form grafted on type.
The trees are difficult to transplant and should be raised in pots.

OLEA. Olive. (See Osmanthus.)
Cuttines. From Fuller we read:

In warm climates, where the Olive flourishes, the cuttings are planted
in the open ground in the Autumn. In European countries large
truncheons or cuttings are used instead of those of moderate size or
lengths, but for no better reason than because it is the general practice

*" orcustom. Chips cut from an old Olive tree stem will readily produce
sprouts if planted in a warm soil and kept moist; in fact, the entire
surface of this tree will produce adventitious buds very freely, if placed
in a position to receive heat and moisture.

ORANGE.

Buppinc. Indoors. They may be budded at any season when they
are making active growth. Use round bud wood rather than flat,
and propagate from bearing trees.

OSMANTHUS. Sweet Olive. Also called Olea fragrans.
SEEps. Not easily obtainable.
Curtines. Half-ripe wood late in Summer.
Buppinc. May be budded on Privet.

OSTRYA. Ironwood. Hop Hornbeam.
SEEDS. Sow as soon as ripe or stratify.
GRAFTING. May graft the varieties on common species.

OXYDENDRON. Sorrel Tree.
SEEDS. Sowinframes. Keep shaded and moist until they germinate.
The plants are apt to be rather difficult to grow the first year.
Layers. Very slow to grow.

PAEONIA. Shrubby sorts, P. Moutan.

6 aaa Taken with heel in Summer and placed in cool green-

ouse.

LAYERING. Layers require about two years to root.

GRAFTING. Root grafting. Use the large fleshy roots for stocks
and graft by the side graft. Graft in early Autumn and store for
Winter. Both root and stock grafting may be used. They may
also be grafted on the herbaceous sorts; use a splice or cleft graft.

PALIURUS. Christ’s Thorn.
SEEDS. Stratify or sow as soon as ripe.
Root Curtines. Store in moist sand during Winter.

PARROTIA.
Cuttines. Green wood under glass.

162 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

PASSIFLORA. Passion Flower.
Curtines. Take growths from January to April; place in warm
propagating bench, shaded and moist. Pot in loam, peat and sand.
Layers. Compound layers used.

PAULOWNIA.
SEEDS. Sow in Spring. Seedlings damp-off easily.
Cutrines. Green wood under glass.
Roor Curttines. Cut into three-inch lengths. plant outdoors or in
greenhouse in the Spring.
Lear Curtines. Petioles cut short, leaves placed in sand covered
with a bell jar.

Fig. 99. Seed vessels of Paulownia tomentosa

PAVIA. Buckeye. Dwarf Horse Chestnut.
SEEDS. Very easily grown from seed if sown soon after ripening.

PHELLODENDRON. Cork Tree.
SEEDS. Freely produced, and germinate readily when sown in
Autumn.
GRAFTING. The Chinese Cork Tree (P. amurense) is grafted on P.
Japonicum since P. amurense is much superior in corkiness of bark.

TREE AND SHRUB LIST 163

PHILADELPHUS. Erroneously called Syringa. Mock Orange.
SEEpDs. They often self sow. May be sown in Spring.
Curtinecs. Hard wood made in Autumn, set in Spring.

PHORADENDRON. Mistletoe.
SeEEps. Joseph Meehan writes:

It takes patience to increase the Mistletoe, but those who wish to
try it may proceed thus: Take the berries and press them to a branch,
the under side of the branch preferred, until they burst. They are so
viscid that they will adhere to the bark, but that birds shall not dis-
turb them, tie them fast with a piece of muslin. Do not be impatient
to see the plants, for nothing will be seen for a year, and then only a
swelling of the bark. But this swelling indicates that all is well, and the
next season some growth may be expected. There is a difference of
opinion as to the cutting of a notch in the bark to hold the berries.
Late authorities say it is better not to do so. The natural way finds
no slit bark, and with the bandage of muslin to hold the seed in place,
there can be no necessity for notching the branch.

The Mistletoe is a parasite, living off the juices of the trees it attaches
itself to. There are two sorts that come to our markets; the old
Mistletoe of Europe and that of our own country. The European one
is Viscum album, ours, Phoradendron flavescens, both being of the
same general character.

In Europe its host trees are generally the Apple, Poplar, Hawthorn,
Linden, Maple and Mountain Ash; rarely the Oak. In our country
it is found on Oaks, Elms, Apples, Locust, Hickories, etc.; and it is
always interesting wherever found growing.

PHOTINIA.
Curttines. Ripened wood.

Layers. Roots readily from layers covered in Spring.
GRAFTING. Worked on Hawthorn, Apple roots or Quince stock.

PHYSIANTHUS.
Curtines. Made in late Winter.

PHYSOCARPUS. Ninebark.
Cuttines. Hard wood or green wood.

PICEA. Spruce.
SeEeps. Keep dry and cool through the Winter. Sow in Spring.
Currines. The dwarf forms are especially easily grown from
cuttings.
GRAFTING. Seedlings of the Norway Spruce, P. excelsa, make the
best stocks because of their adaptability to soils, hardiness and
good growth. Veneer grafting in Spring or August in the greenhouse.

PICKNEYA.

SEEDS. Grow readily, but the plants are not hardy.
PIERIS.

SEEDS. (See Andromeda.)

Cuttines. Nearly ripe wood. August, under glass.
PINUS. Pine.

SEEDS. Sow in beds, about three feet wide so that they may be
weeded. After growing one year they are transplanted just as
buds are swelling. Shade the young plants early in growth, but
gradually allow the beds to have the full sunlight, else damping-off
will occur. Keag them sparsely watered.

164 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION
PINUS—Continued

GRAFTING. Veneer grafting is used to work various rarer varieties
on the type. The plants may be potted and grafted indoors. In
grafting out of doors the terminal bud graft is best used. (See
p. 97 and fig. 67.) Fuller writes that the two and three leaved
sorts, P. sylvestris, P. Mughus compacta, P. pyrenaica and P. densi-
flora, should be used in grafting varieties of the same number of
needles. The Austrian Pine (P. nigra var. austriaca) may be
used as a stock for the Western Pines (P. ponderosa, P. Coulteri,
and P. Sabiniana), all of which have coarse grained wood. The
rapid, free growing. three-needle sorts are preferred for the others;
for example, the Red Pine (P. resinosa) is the best stock for allied
species and varieties. The White Pine (P. Strobus) a five-leaf
sort, is best used for the other five-leaved species, P. flexilis, P.
excelsa, P. Cembra, and P. Mandschurica.

PLATANUS. Button-wood. Plane Tree. Sycamore.
SEEDs. Propagate the Oriental Plane only.
Curtines. Hard wood taken in Autumn.

POMEGRANATE. See Punica.

POPULUS. Poplar.
SEEDS. Sow as soon as ripe. Plant shallow, water if soil becomes
dry. .
Curtines. Hard wood root easily, one or two-year-old wood used.
BupDING AND GRAFTING. Varieties are worked on rapid growing
species.
POTENTILLA. Shrubby Cinquefoil. Five Finger.
Cuttines. Mature wood taken in Autumn.

PRUNUS. Propagation of ornamental species only.
SEEDS. See under Peach and Plum, pp. 114 and 117.
Curtincs. Mature wood used for some ornamentals and European
Plum.
Root Currtinecs. Plants from cuttings are apt to sucker easily.
Buppinc. Shield bud on seedling stock.

Prunus. Amygdalus. Almond (see fig. 100).

BupDING AND GRAFTING. The ornamental horticultural varieties
are budded on the Peach or the Plum. The Plum is usually preferred
because it is not attacked by borers and succeeds well in a clay soil.
If the Plum is not astrong grower, however, there is danger of the
roots being inadequate for the best development of the Almond.

P. Amygdalus var. nana is best budded at a height of three feet.
(See also Plums, p. 117, and Peaches, p. 114.)

Root Curtines. P. A. nana is successfully propagated by cuttings

of large roots made in Autumn stored in damp moss until Spring.

Prunus. Cerasus. Ornamental Cherries.

Buppine. Use the Mazzard stock, usually, especially for budding
P. Cerasus Sieboldi rosea plena (Jap. Weeping Cherry) and sinensis
plena (Chinese Double Flowering Cherry). For weeping sorts,
two buds; for others one is sufficient to make a head. Careful
attention to heading back the growth of bud will help to make
greater symmetry. Spring grafting is not so successful. (Refer
also to Cherries, p. 113.)

TREE AND SHRUB LIST 165

Fig. §100.—Double flowering Almond. The cut shows a characteristic branch of

Prunus triloba var. plena. This variety when grown as a standard and worked upon

the Plum is often short-lived. It is best propagated by layering or root grafting. It
makes an excellent subject for forcing, but is also used for gardens (See page 164)

PSEUDOLARIX. Golden Larch.

SEEps. Seed obtained from Japan.

GRAFTING. Graft on Larch outdoors, or better still, in the greenhouse.
For indoor grafting pot plants in Spring so that they are estab-
lished by Autumn and can be stored until late Winter, then brought
into heat to start growth. When the buds swell, it is time to graft.
Cut cions in Winter and hold dormant in cool conditions.

166 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

PSEUDOTSUGA. Douglas Spruce.
SeEps. Generally propagated by seeds. Eastern growers should
demand Eastern or Colorado seed, as the California seed is tender.
GRAFTING. The weeping form is grafted on the common stock.
InancHING. Used on weeping form.

PTELEA. Hop Tree.
SEEDS. Sown in Autumn or stratify in sand.
Layers. Varieties of Hop Tree are easily layered.
GRAFTING AND Buppine. Graft under glass or bud out of doors on
seedlings.
PTEROCARYA. (Winged Walnut.
SEEDS. Sown in Autumn or stratified.

PTEROSTYRAX.: Wistaria Tree.
Seeps. Ripen in Autumn; sow immediately or in Spring.
CutTtincs. Green wood under glass, in Summer.
GraFTInG. May be grafted on seedling Halesia.

PUNICA. Pomegranate.
Curtines. Hard wood.
GRAFTING. May be grafted on wild type.

PYRUS. Apples, Pears, Crabs.
Ornamental species only; commercial fruit discussed on pp. 111-
iS:
SeEeps. The botanical species P. coronaria, toensis, etc. come true.
Buppinc. Budding of Pyrus coronaria and Bechtels’ Double
Flowering Crab. Mid-July or later on common Apple stock.
Should be budded near end of growing season. When budded
earlier the union does not take place so well.

Pyrus Maus. Apple.

GRAFTING. The commonest stock for the Apple is the wild apple of
Europe, but for the Siberian Crab varieties P. prunifolia, P. an-
gustifolia or P. coronaria are used. For dwarfing the Apple,
Paradise and Doucin stocks are used, both of which are small
types of P. Malus. (See p. 113.)

QUERCUS. Oak.
SEEDS. Joseph Meehan writes:

Many Oaks are of the class which commence to grow as soon as the
acorns fall, and these sorts require sowing within a week or so after
they are ripe. In this class are the White Oak, Chestnut Oak, Rock
Chestnut, Chinquapin, and maybe others. If not sown within a week
or two after falling they will not grow, unless in the meantime they have
been in a damp place. The trouble is, that they either lose vitality
by drying up or the radicle pushes out so far, because of damp surround-
ings, that they cannot be handled satisfactorily afterward. Beds
should be prepared for them at once. Those of about three feet width
are best, as affording opportunity to weed the seedlings without treading
on the beds. Such beds made now, and spread with acorns, the latter
covered with two inches of soil, should give a treat in the way of seed-
lings next Spring. Before Winter sets in a covering of forest leaves
should be placed over the beds, to keep the acorns free from the freezings
and thawings they would otherwise be subjected to.

The first of these early sprouting acorns to ripen is the little Chin-
quapin Oak, Quercus prinoides. Next come the two Chestnut Oaks,
Quercus prinus and Q. castanea, followed by the White Oak, Q. alka.

TREE AND SHRUB LIST 167

QUERCUS—Continued

At this writing, September 28, the prineides and prinus are ripe, and the
alba just about ready to fall from the trees.

There is a great call in foreign countries for our White Oak; but be-
tween the difficulty of shipping acorns of it in good condition and the
embargo placed on plants from this country, the demand cannot be
met atall. This, the White Oak, is the most valuable of all our Oaks
for timber purposes, although others are valuable and all serve a good
purpose for fuel.

Cuttines. The evergreen species may be increased by this method.
GRaFTING. Q. Robur var. fastigiata is grafted on Q. Robur, the
English Oak, in Winter; on potted plants or on outdoor plants in
Spring. In grafting the Oaks choose allied species for stocks.
INarcHING. Varieties inarched on type.

QUINCE. (See Cydonia.)

RAPHIOLEPIS. Indian Hawthorn.
Cuttines. Cuttings of ripe wood under glass late in Summer.
GRAFTING. Used on Crategus.

RASPBERRY. (See Rubus.)

RETINISPORA. (Often spelled Retinospora.)
Curtines. <A rapid method, taken in early Winter, placed in green-
house with a little bottom heat. (See fig. 22.)
Juvenile forms are said to be produced of these Retinisporas by
propagating from seedlings and continuing to propagate from the
slower growing branches.

RHAMNUS. Common Buckthorn.
SEEDs. Stratified in Autumn.
Curtines. Hard wood.
GRAFTING. Some of rarer sorts are grafted on R. cathartica.

RHODODENDRON.

SEEDS. The seed is very fine and frequently when falling beneath
the old plants will grow nicely. In the greenhouse they may be
sown from January to March in a soil consisting of sand, peat and a
little loam. Do not cover, except by a layer of sphagnum and -
place a pane of glass over the pots. Immediately upon germina-
tion the glass must be removed.

Curttines. Half-ripe wood is used and placed in sand benches
under glass. When they have callused they may be given a little
bottom heat. Heel cuttings will be the best sort to use.

Layers. Chinese layering is successful though it is not used as widely

_as simple layers. Commonly the low branched plants are selected.
The branches of last season’s growth are chosen, an incision is made
in the part below the soil, and the growth is pegged down. Al-
though the shoot will root soon it should be allowed to remain for
several seasons. To layer the higher branched plants the soil
may be mounded up rather high. Such soil should be mostly
leaf mold (see fig. 45).

GraFTING. R. catawbiense and R. maximum are the best stocks; the
Belgian nurseries have been using mostly R. ponticum. Veneer
grafting is mostly practiced, although cleft and saddle grafting
may be used. Let the grafts be made low on the plants. Do not

168 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION
RHODODENDRON—Continued

head the stock plant back until the second year. Grafting is done
late in Summer or early in Autumn; no wax is used, but the union
should be tied with sphagnum; the plants are kept in humid con-
dition and shaded.

RHODOTYPOS. White Kerria.
SEEDS. A very free seeder. Even self-sows. Sow when ripened.
Cuttines. Either hard or soft wood.

RHUS. Sumac. Smoke Tree.

SEEDS. Sown in Autumn or stratify.

Curtines. Hard wood.

Roor Currines. Especially of R. typhina var. laciniata, the Fern-
leaved Sumac. Cut into three-inch lengths, bury in sand until
Spring, then set out in rows.

Layers. Many species may be layered.

RIBES. Currant. Gooseberry.

SEEDS. Germinate readily.

Curttines. Hard wood. Make in Autumn. Best method for
Currant.

Layers. Mound layers, especially of Gooseberry (see fig. 49.) The
varieties may also be tip layered.

BupDDING AND GRAFTING. Used with horticultural varieties.

When tree or standard plants are wanted, strong stocks, such as

R. aureum, are used for the Currant, and perhaps R. rotundifolium,
the Round-leaved Gooseberry, would be useful for the Gooseberry
varieties. It is a strong, tall grower.

ROBINIA. Locust.
SeEps. Soak in hot water or scald before sowing.
CutTtines. Soft wood of R. hispida and other species in Summer.
Root Curtines. R. viscosa and R. hispida especially are propa-
gated by this method.

ROSE. (See page 129.)

- RUBUS. Raspberries.

SEEDS. Grow easily.

Division. Divide clumps for varieties.

Roor Curtimnes. Take cuttings three inches long. Good root
system by this method.

Layers. The red Raspberries are especially easy to tip layer.
(See fig. 46.) Pinch out the terminal buds of branches layered
ae eet plants may be obtained instead of one. (See also

g. 48.

SALISBURIA. (See Ginkgo.)

SALIX. Willow.

SEEDS. Not used.

Curtines. Very easily rooted from hard wood cuttings. Propagate
S. viminalis, S. triandra, S. cordata, and S. Forbyana for tying
nursery stock, some others break instead of bending.

GRAFTING. The Kilmarnock Pussy Willow, a variety of S. caprea,
is frequently grafted on S. caprea to give stronger shoots.

TREE AND SHRUB LIST 169

SAMBUCUS. Elderberry.

SEEDs. Grow readily. .

Curtrines. Best propagate the Golden Elder by hard wood cuttings,
although it comes rather true from seeds. Other species may be
rooted from cuttings also.

Roor Curtines. Many of the sorts may be propagated by this

method.
Sucker. Readily propagated by this method.
SASSAFRAS.
SeEps. The best method is by seed. Ripen in Autumn; sow im-
mediately.

Suckers. Start when roots are injured.

SCIADOPITYS. Umbrella Pine.
SEEDs. Very slow growth from seeds.
Curtines. More rapid than seeds but plants are apt to be as sym-
metrical.

SEQUOIA. (Giant Tree of California.)
Curtines. (See Thuya, page 171.)

SHEPHERDIA. Buffalo Berry.
SEEDS. Grow readily. As the sexes are distinct, seedling plants
must be grown until the sex can be determined. Seedlings are
rather sensitive to strong sun.

SKIMMIA.
SEEDs. By seeds both sexed plants are obtained, so that one waits for
flowering to determine the berry producers.
RNG, Produce the plant exactly. Use half-ripe wood under
glass.

SOPHORA. Japan Pagoda Tree.
SEEDS. Germinate readily when fresh.
Currines. Hard wood or green wood; the latter are best grown
from indoor plants.
GRAFTING. Varieties are grafted on seedlings of the type.

SORBUS. Mountain Ash.
SEEDs. Crush fruits and wash out the seeds; sow immediately or
store in damp sand until Spring.
GRAFTING AND Buppine. Varieties are grafted or budded on S.
aucuparia, S. americana, or Crategus.

SPIRAEA. Bridal Wreath and Meadow Sweet.
SreEDs. Many sorts grow nicely from seed.
Curtines. Soft wood cuttings taken in late Spring of some sorts,
especially S. bumalda var. Anthony Waterer. Hard wood cuttings
are much used.

STAPHYLEA. Bladder Nut.

Cuttines. Young growth placed under glass.
Roor Curtines. Use the larger roots.

STEPHANANDRA.
Curtines. Green wood used mostly.
Roor Curttnes. S. incisa (fleruosa) especially. Make cuttings in
Spring. Give bottom heat.

170 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

STERCULIA. Japan Varnish Tree. Chinese Parasol Tree.
SEEDS. Easily grown if they can be obtained.
CutTtines. Soft wood rooted in Summer.

STEWARTIA.
SEEDS. Seed produced abundantly.
Cuttines. Difficult to root. Use half-ripened ones.
Layers. Best.

STIGMAPHYLLON.
Curtincs. Soft wood heel cuttings rooted with bottom heat.

STUARTIA. (See Stewartia.)

STYRAX. Storax.
SEEDS. Produced in profusion. Seed sown as soon as ripe.
Curtines. Do not root well.
Layers. Useful.
GRAFTING. Sometimes grafted on Halesia.

SYMPHORICARPOS. Indian Currant. Snowberry.
Curtines. Hard wood and green wood.
UNDERGROUND STEMS. Spread quickly.

Suckers. Produced abundantly.

SYMPLOCOS. Sweet Leaf. Horse-Sugar.
SEEDS. Rarely germinate until second year after planting.
Currines. Under glass. Green wood.

SYRINGA. Lilac.

SEEDS. Raise seedlings for budding. LEasily grown.

CuTtines. Green wood in Spring. Place in greenhouse. Good
plants are produced by Autumn. Hard wood cuttings are very
easily rooted.

Buppine. Budded on Ligusirum (California Privet) the plant
flowers earlier than when propagated from cuttings. Bud in Sep-
tember, for the sap in Privet is running very late. Such budding
also results in dwarfing.

Layers. Also useful.

TAMARINDUS. Tamarind.
SEEDS. Readily grown from seed sown in hotbed or in greenhouse,
with bottom heat.
Cutrtines. Under glass.

TAMARIX. Tamarisk.

SEEDS. Fine, cover lightly.

Cuttines. Hard wood, plant in open soil in Autumn or Spring.
Soft wood in Summer.

TAXODIUM. Bald Cypress.

SEEDS. Sow in Spring. Germinate quickly.

Curtines. Use young shoots in Summer. Sand and water method
should be successful. ;

GRAFTING. The weeping form, the variegated, and the Oriental
species, are grafted on common stock. Grafting in Spring outdoors,
near the soil. Shade the cions with paper or flower pot. Or in
August the plants may be veneer grafted in greenhouse.

TREE AND SHRUB LIST 171

TAXUS. Yew.
Sreps. Wash seeds free from pulp and keep in damp sand, until
Spring.

Currines. This is method usually employed. Use green cuttings
under glass or mature shoots in Autumn placed in frames.

Fig. 101. A Yewberry

TECOMA. (See Campsis.)
EHAEA. » Tea.

THUYA. (Also spelled Thuja). Arborvites. White Cedar.

Seeps. Many forms are good from seed. Sown in Spring. Water
frequently.

Cuttines. For golden form use cuttings made in January. The
Siberian Arborvite must be propagated by this method’ as it does
not come true from seed.

GRAFTING. Pot common Arborvite in Autumn; keep in cool house
until several weeks before grafting. After grafting, keep air of
house moist and shade must be given for several weeks.
occidentalis var. aurea or George Peabody is grafted on type.

THUJOPSIS.
Cuttines. Plants are usually bushy and globular.
GraFTInG. As in Thuya. Plants are not so long lived.

TILIA. Basswood. Linden, Whitewood.
SEEDS. Sown as soon as ripe or stratified.
Layers. Young tree cut down, the resulting growths are layered.
GRAFTED AND Buppep. Rarer sorts grafted in the Spring, or later;
in August, they may be budded on type stock.
Mr. Rehder notes that grafted or layered trees remain one-sided
for years because the branches have a tendency to make a horizontal
instead of an upright growth.

172 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

TORREYA. Stinking Yew.
(See Taxus for propagation.)

TSUGA. Hemlock.
Cuttines. Partially ripened wood used.
GRAFTING. Use T.. canadensis as a stock.

ULEX. Furze. Gorse.
SEEDS. Sown in Spring when frost is past.
Cuttines. Green or hard wood.
GRAFTING. Grafted in Spring on U. europeus.

ULMUS. Elm. (See fig. 102.)

SEEDS. Sow when ripe. Most Elms ripen seeds in May or June.
but U. parvifolia ripens its seeds in October and November.

Currines. Hard wood.

GRAFTING. It is best to graft or bud upon allied species.

Use U.

americana, U. campestris, U. foliacea and U. glabra as stocks.

The whip and splice graft is mostly used. To obtain the beautiful
specimens of the Camperdown or Umbrella Elm, a form of U.
glabra (montana), this sort is grafted on tall stems; at a height of
7 to 8 feet is best, otherwise the mature tree appears dwarfed.
Watch the head for the first few seasons and prune so that it will be
well balanced.

UNGNADIA. Mexican Buckeye. Spanish Buckeye

SEEDS. Sow as soon asripe. Seeds retain their vitality only a short
time. ;

VACCINIUM. Blueberry. Huckleberry.

The notes here offered is a summary of the extensive researches
of Dr. Frederick V. Coville.*
SruMPING. The easiest way to propagate the swamp Blueberry is
by a special process of layering named “‘stumping.” ‘The directions
are as follows:

1. In late Fall, Winter, or Spring, preferably in early Spring before
the buds have begun to push, cut off at the surface of the ground either
the whole of the plant or as many of the stems as it is desired to devote
to this method of propagation. The stems that are cut off are dis-
carded, or they may be used for cuttings, as described under “‘Tubering’”’
or ‘‘Winter cuttings.”’

2. Cover the stumps to the depth of 2 to 3 inches with a mixture of
clean sand and sifted peat, 2 to 4 parts of sand to 1 of peat, by bulk.
A rough box or frame may be built on the ground to keep the sand bed
in place.

3. Care must be taken that the sand bed be not allowed to become
dry except at the surface during the Summer.

4. The new growth from the stumps, which without the sand would
consist of stems merely, is transformed in working its way through
the sand bed into scaly, erect, or nearly erect rootstocks which, on
reaching the surface of the sand, continue their development into leafy
shoots. (See fig. 103.) Although roots are formed only sparingly on
the covered bases of stems, they develop abundantly during Spring and

* Coville, F. V. Directions for Blueberry Culture. Professional Paper Bull. 334,

United States Dept. of Agriculture.

TREE AND SHRUB LIST 173

Fig. 102. Camperdown Elm. The Camperdown Elm (Ulmus glabra var.Camper-
downii) is either budded or grafted at a height of seven to eight feet upon U. americana,
U. campestris, U. glabra or U. foliacea

VACCINIUM—Continued

early Summer on these artificially produced rootstocks, and by the end
of Autumn all the shoots should be well rooted at the base. They
should remain in place in the sand bed till late Winter or early Spring,
undisturbed and exposed to outdoor freezing temperatures; but the
sand should be mulched with leaves, preferably those of Red Oaks.
5. Early in the following Spring, before the buds have begun to push,
open the bed and sever each rooted shoot carefully from the stump.
Discard the upper portion of the shoot, making the cut at such a point
as to leave on the basal portion about three buds above the former
level of the sand bed. If the cut at the basal end of the rooted shoot is
not smooth or the wood is cracked, recut the surface witha sharp, thin-

1

74 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

V ACCINIUM—Continued

bladed knife. The discarded upper portion of the shoot may be used!
for Winter cuttings, as described on pages 8 to II.

6. Set the rooted shoots in a coldframe or a cool greenhouse in clean.
earthenware pots of suitable size, ordinarily 3-inch pots, in a soil
mixture consisting of two parts, by bulk, of rotted upland peat and one-

part of sand.
7. Cover the frame with muslin or other white shade suspended above:

the glass, giving the plants plenty of light but no direct sunlight, andi

Fig. 103. New shoots on a stumped Blueberry. The three shoots shown grew after
the plant had been cut to the stump. Their white color at the base indicates the
depth of the propagating bed through which they forced their way and from which the
plant was taken to be photographed. Roots had already begun to develop. Used through
the courtesy of Dr. F. V. Coville of the United States Department of Agriculture

TREE AND SHRUB LIST 175

VACCINIUM—Continued

Fig. 104. Tubered Blueberry Cutting with young sprouts developing. Used through
the courtesy of Dr. F. V. Coville of the United States Department of Agriculture

for the first two or three months keep the temperature at not to exceed
65 degrees F. if practicable. When subjected to high temperatures the
newly cut shoots are liable to die and rot from the base upward. The
outer surface of the pots should never be allowed to become dry. The
desired condition may be assured by bedding, or “‘plunging,’’ the pots
in moist sand up to the rim.

8. Watering should be as infrequent as practicable, only sufficient to
keep the soil moist but well aerated.
' g. The frame should receive ventilation, but not enough to cause
the new twigs to drop. These are most susceptible to over-ventilation
and to over-heating when they have nearly completed their growth.

10. After the new twigs have stopped growing and their wood becomes
hard, new root growth takes place. Then secondary twig growth
follows, either from the apex of the new twigs or from another bud
lower down on the old wood of the original rooted shoot. Until this
secondary twig growth takes place the life of the plant is not assured.

11. Those plants that make sufficient growth to require repotting
during the first Summer should be set in clean pots of two inches larger
diameter in a standard Blueberry-soil mixture.

Sor, Mixture FoR BLuEBERRIES. Use “‘one part of clean or washed
sand, nine parts of rotted upland peat, either chopped or rubbed
through a sieve, and three parts of clean, broken crocks, or flower
pots. No loam and especially no lime should be used. Manure
is not necessary. The peat most successfully used for potting
Blueberry plants is an upland peat procured in Kalmia, or Laurel,
thickets. Oak leaves raked, stacked, and rotted for about eighteen
months without lime or manure are also good.”

TuBERING. Cuttings by ordinary methods have been seldom rooted.
Tubering is a method by which new shoots are forced in such a
way that their basal portions are much like scaly root stocks stem.

176

Fig.

COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

VACCINIUM—\Continued

Cuttings are taken from outdoor plants between midwinter and early
Spring, before the buds have begun to make their Spring growth.

The cuttings are placed horizontally in a shallow box or other cutting
bed of pure clean sand and covered to the depth of about half an inch.

105. Tubered Blueberry cutting with sprouts rooting at the base. The sprout

at the left in figure 104 had emerged from the sand and begun to develop green leaves
above the surface. The sprout near the center of figure 104 is younger, the whole of
it still in the rootstock stage. The two sprouts in figure 105 are developing roots on
their lower parts, above the dying wood of the old cutting and beneath the surface of
the cutting bed. Used through the courtesy of Dr. F. V. Coville of the United States

Department of Agriculture

Within a few weeks new growth will begin to appear above the
sand. (See fig. 104.) When the shoots have reached a length pro-
portionate to their vigor, commonly one to three inches, their further
growth is self-terminated by the death of the tip. After the leaves
have reached their full size and acquired the dark-green color of ma-
turity the time has come for the development of roots.

When a shoot is well rooted, with roots one to two inches in length,
it is ready to be potted. If the shoot has not already disconnected itself
from the dead cutting, it should be carefully severed with a sharp knife.
In the process of tubering, the behavior of the cuttings is essentially
identical with that of real tubers, like those of the potato. The original
cutting dies, but the sprouts that arose from it root at the base and
form independent plants.

TREE AND SHRUB LIST 177

VIBURNUM. Includes Snowball. High Bush Cranberry.
Szeps. Wash free from pulp; sown in Autumn or mix with dry sand;
keep in a cool place and sow in Spring.
Cuttines. Soft wood in Summer root readily. Hard wood cuttings
are easily rooted.
Layers. Early Summer.

VITEX. Chaste Tree. Hemp Bush.
Seeps. Freely produced.
Cuttines. Soft or hard wood; the hard wood cuttings may set in a
protected place in the Autumn.

VITIS. Grape.

SEEps. Rarely come true to type but for raising seedlings of: new
varieties, the seeds are removed from the pulp and stored in moist
sand until Spring when they may be sown in flats or in the open soil.
Except for the tender types, the seeds may benefit by being frozen
during the Winter.

Curtines. Single eye cuttings may be used when wood is scarce,
or valuable. A small piece of wood should be left on each side of
the eye so that the cutting is about one and a half inches long.
These cuttings are made in February from wood stored through the
Winter in a cool cellar. They are placed in propagating bench
with slight bottom heat. The best wood for use in making cuttings
is that which is rather short jointed. The most common type of
cutting, however, is five to seven inches long, made in the Autumn and
stored in a sandy soil out of doors or in a cool cellar. They are
placed up-side down to hasten the callus. In the Spring the
cuttings are set in the nursery row.

GRAFTING. Grapes are grafted in earliest Spring or Autumn. The
soil around the plants is removed and the cion is inserted beneath
the soil. Merely tie with raffia. If grafting has been neglected
until the sap flows, the stocks may be grafted after the buds burst.
This will eliminate the excess bleeding. The European Grape is
usually grafted on American stocks because of its susceptibility to
root louse injury. After grafting very early in Spring or in Autumn
Mr. Fuller* suggests protecting the cion from frost by covering
with an inverted flower pot and straw.

Layers. The simplest method of propagating is by continuous
layers. Bend down a cane and cover a few inches deep with soil.
Nearly all the nodes will root. Practiced in Autumn or Spring.

WISTARIA. (Also spelled Wisteria.)
SEEDS. Grow readily but do not reproduce varieties.
Cuttrines. Ripened wood rooted under glass.
Roor Currines. One inch or more long.
Layers. Easily rooted.
GraFTinG. Horticultural varieties grafted on W. frutescens.

XANTHOCERAS.
Seeps. Few produced but usually all grow if sown in greenhouse.
Root Curtines. Roots cut into three inch pieces in Autumn and
stored in sand until February, then placed where they may start
into growth with a light bottom heat.

* Fuller. A. S.i—Grape Culturist.

178 COMMERCIAL PLANT PROPAGATION

speedy trees Shrubby Yellow-Root. (Also spelled Zanthorr-
iza.)
SEEDS. Sown in Autumn or early Spring. Seedlings are weak when
young.
Roor Divistons. In Autumn or Early Spring.
XANTHOXYLUM. Prickly Ash. Toothache Tree. (Also spelled
Zanthoxylum. )
Roor Currtnes. Easiest method.

YUCCA. J :
Roor Curtines. Cut up thick roots into two inch pieces, place one
to two inches deep.

CHAPTER IX

BOOK LIST

The following books will prove of use to supplement the brief
discussion of the propagation of plants found in the present
volume.

Bailey, Liberty H. 1913. THe Nursery-Boox. A complete guide
to the multiplication of plants.

Bailey, Liberty H. 1914-1917. Sranparp CycLopepiA oF Horricut-
TURE. Six volumes.

“Balfour, I. Bayley. 1913. Prospiems or PropaGcation. Journal of
Royal Horticultural Society. Vol. XX XVIII, part IIL, pp. 447-461.

Baltet, Charles. 1910. Tue Arr or GRAFTING AND BupDING.

Brown, B. S. 1916. MopErNn PRopAGATION OF TREE FRUITS.

Budd, J. L. and Hansen, N. E. 1902. Amertcan HortricuLTURAL
Manuat. Part I.

Corbett, L. C. 1909. Tue PropaGation oF Puants. U.S. D. A.,
Farmers’ Bull. No. 157.

Coville, Frederick V. 1916. Drrecrions ror BLUEBERRY CULTURE.
U.S. D. A. Professional Paper Bull. No. 334, pp. 3-13.

Craig, William N. 1917. Step Sowrne Suacestions. Transactions
of Mass. Hort. Society for the year 1917, Part I, pp. 15-29.

Y Fuller, Andrew S. 1887. PropaGatTion oF PLANTs, giving the

principles which govern the development and growth of plants, their
botanical affinities and peculiar properties; also descriptions of the
process by which varieties and species are crossed or hybridized, and
the many different methods by which cultivated plants may be
propagated and multiplied.

Fuller, Andrew S. 1894. Grape Cutrurist. A treatise on the
cultivation of the modern Grape.

Galloway, Beverly T. 1914. CommercitaL VIOLET CULTURE.

Hansen, N. E. . (See Budd, J. L.) .

Hedrick, U. P. 1915. THe CHerries oF New York.

Hedrick, U. P. 1911. THe Piums or New York.

Holmes, Eber. 1911. CommerctaL Rosz CULTURE, pp. 24-55.

Hottes, Alfred C. 1916. GuaptoLus Srupres I[—Culture and Hy-
bridization of the Gladiolus. Cornell Extension Bull. 10.

Howard, W. L. 1905. PropaGatinG TREES AND PLANts. Simple
directions for propagating many of the common fruits of orchard and
garden.

179

180 BOOK LIST

Howard, W. L. 1910. PrLanr Propacation. Missouri State Board
of Horticulture. Fourth Annual Report, pp. 177-216.

Jenkins, J. 1886. Arr or Propagation. A handbook for nursery-
men, florists, gardeners and everybody.

Kains, M.G. 1916. PLanr Propacation. Greenhouse and Nursery
Practice.

Meehan, Joseph. Nursery notes in Florists’ Exchange.

de Muelder, Fred. 1915. PLaAntinGc AND CULTURE oF HYACINTHS
FoR PropaGATion. Florists’ Exchange, April 17.

Mulford, F. L. 1916. Roses ror THE Home. U.S. D. A. Farmers’
Bull. No. 750.

Oliver, George W. 1911. THE SEEDLING-INARCH AND NURSE-PLANT
Metuops oF Pianr Propacation. U. 8S. D. A. Bur. of Plant
Industry, Bull. No. 202.

Oliver, George W. Puanr Cutrure. Revised issue early in 1918. A
working hand-book of every day practice for all who grow flower-
ing and ornamental plants in the garden and greenhouse.

Thompson, Charles H. 1912. Ornamentat Cacti: Their culture and
decorative value. U.S. D. A. Bur. of Pl. Industry, Bull. No. 262.

Trillow, William. 1912. PropaGATION OF SHrRuBS. Proceedings of
-the Society of Iowa Florists, pp. 75-80.

Webster, P. J. 1916. PxLanr PRopAGATION IN THE Tropics. . Bur.
of Agr., Philippine Is., Bull., No. 32.

White, Edward A. 1915. PrincipLEs oF FLORICULTURE.

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PRACTICAL

LANDSCAPE GARDENING

ROBERT B. CRIDLAND

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, The first edition was an unusually Jarge one for
the subject, but so overwhelming was its success
that asecond edition was called for within 18 months

SECOND EDITION

Practical Landscape

Gardening

By ROBERT B. CRIDLAND

Landscape architect of more than twenty
years’ experience and national reputation.
First practical book ever written for people

of moderate income.

ness and lucidity of expression, rarely met
with in technical or semi-technical guides, the
reader is encouraged at the ease with which
he can acquire all needful instruction on every
detail connected with landscape gardening
and to the embellishment of the home grounds.
Owners of suburban homes, flower and garden

Through its concise-

lovers, florists and nurserymen, park com-
missioners and civic officials, and students of landscape architecture will find
help and inspiration within its covers such as no other book has ever afforded.

DESCRIPTION OF CHAPTER ILLUSTRATIONS

1—The Importance of All Careful
Planning.—Six halftone illustrations
showing completed results. :

2—Locating the House.—Seven line
drawings of studies of house locations on
small lots and one showing best exposure
for the house in its relation to the sun.

3—Arrangements of Walks, Drives
and Entrances.—Twelve illustrations of
approaches or entrances, ten driveways
and three walks.

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Drives.—Twenty-five teaching illustra-
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and other walks, cement approaches and
gutters, bituminous and cement drive-
ways, etc. ;

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struction and Upkeep.—Nine line cuts
showing correct grading under varying
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of charming lawn views properly treated.

rnamental Planting of Trees

and Shrubs.—Twenty-four fine half-
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cuts showing how to plant and move
trees, lay out ornamental vegetable gar-
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halftones of properly laid out gardens with
several planting plans and keys thereto.

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halftones showing bird bath, fountains
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entrances, pergolas, etc.

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dens.—Fifteen attractive halftones and
plans of borders and rose gardens.

10—Wild Gardens and Rock Gar-
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plan showing how to build a dry retaining
wall for planting.

11—Planting Plans.—Twenty-four
plans showing a variety of artistic
arrangements possible on small prop-
erties. These plans are keyed and
accompanied by planting lists which have
been tested in actual practice.

PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING is an entirely different
book from any landscape treatise previously written, because it fits into your
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covers every detail. It contains 91 photographic illustrations, 67 sketches
and 34 plans, 24 of which are planting plans accompanied by planting keys.

The type is large and clear; the paper is enamel; the binding

durable.

attractive; it portrays a wonderful landscape scene.
Prospectus on application.
Price, delivery postpaid......

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